Professional Documents
Culture Documents
3-1
Garments Styles/Design
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you should be able to:
Introduction / Overview:
In the previous LO’s, you have learned on how to prepare, lay – out
and mark patterns on your material (fabric). You also learned on how to
select the right fabrics, how to manipulate marking tools and equipment
with ease. In this module, you will learn the importance of garment styles /
design in different garments parts and the trends that will help you with
your future client’s specifications.
In this section, we will discuss the deeper meaning of garment styles
or fashion design by understanding different garment parts such as bodice,
sleeves, collar, skirt and dress styles. But before going through all the
sample garment styles, it is important that you have to first know your
client’s body type so you can easily pick your favorite garment styles and be
able to design on your own.
Definitions:
Body Shapes/Types
Bodies come in all different shapes and sizes. That’s part of what makes
each of us unique. In 2004, study reported that descriptions of female
bodies have historically been described in categories based on shapes, such
as the following:
Rectangle, straight, or “banana”
If your waist measurements are about the same as your hip or bust, and
your shoulders and hips are about the same width. Stylists will probably
point you toward off-the-shoulder tops, tube dresses, and belted waists.
Triangle or “pear”
With this shape, your shoulders and bust are narrower than your hips. You
probably have slim arms and a fairly defined waist. Your waist most likely
slopes out to your hips. Stylists often recommend clothing that shows off the
waistline.
Spoon
The spoon body type is pretty similar to the triangle or “pear” shape. Your
hips are larger than your bust or the rest of your body and may have a
“shelf”-like appearance. You likely have a defined waist. You may also carry
some weight in your upper arms and upper thighs. You may be told to look
for dresses that have classic “baby doll” cuts or other items with an empire
waist.
Hourglass
If your hips and bust are nearly equal in size and you have a well-defined
waist that’s narrower than both, you have an hourglass shape.
Your legs and upper body are probably considered proportionate. Your
shoulders may be slightly rounded, and you most likely have rounded
buttocks. Form-fitting or tailored clothing have traditionally been designed
with this body type in mind.
Top hourglass
As a top hourglass, you have the general hourglass shape, but your bust
measurements are slightly larger than your hips. Boot cut or slightly flared
pants probably fit you well, as do full or A-line skirts and tailored jackets.
Bottom hourglass
As a bottom hourglass, you have the general hourglass shape, but your hip
measurements are slightly larger than your bust. Stylists probably point you
toward form-fitting knits and dresses.
Your shoulders and bust are larger than your relatively narrow hips. Stylists
may recommend tops that have some shaping around the waist and more
open necklines, or clothing that shows off your legs.
Round or oval
If your bust is larger than the rest of your body, your hips are narrow, and
your midsection is fuller, you have what’s usually called a round or oval
body type. Stylists usually point people with this body type toward tops that
flare at the top or that have vertical details.
Diamond
If you have broader hips than shoulders, a narrow bust, and a fuller
waistline, you have what’s called a diamond body shape. With this type, you
may carry a little more weight in your upper legs. You may also have slender
arms. Flowy-off-the-shoulder or boat-neck tops are usually recommended
for this body type.
Athletic
If your body is muscular but isn’t particularly curvy, you might have an
athletic body type. Your shoulder and hip measurements are about the
same. Your waist is narrower than your shoulder and hips, but it isn’t
overly-defined and looks straighter up and down. Stylists often point to
halter, strapless, and racerback styles.
Now that you have already about the different body types,
you may be able to further understand the garment styles/design fit for
your future client’s specifications.
A. Bodice Style
B. Sleeve Style
C. Collar Style
D. Skirt Style
E. Dress Style
A. Bodice Style
Bodice is usually the part of a woman's dress covering the body between the
neck or shoulders and the waist. There are three variations of bodice style:
Sleeves are the part of a garment that wholly or partly covers a person's
arm. It is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the
arm passes or slips. The pattern of the sleeve is one of the characteristics of
fashion in dress, varying in every country and period. There are many
different types of sleeves and each type can completely transform the look of
a top or dress. There are two basic types of sleeve:
1. Straight Sleeve:
The straight sleeve does not drape along the natural curve of the arm and
hence this kind of construction does not allow the bending of the elbow
and does not fit neatly. This kind of sleeve hangs loosely; however, it
provides an easy and comfortable fit. Its comfort depends on its loose fit
so that the whole arm moves freely inside it. It is used for a variety of
styles – short, mid-length and long and in a variety of garments, such as
blouses, dresses, nightwear, overalls and even coats. Below figure shows
the view of a straight sleeve attached to a ladies top.
Set-in sleeve
2. Shaped Sleeves:
Shaped sleeves are constructed such that they follow the natural
shape of the arm and help in the bending of the arm at the elbow.
This kind of sleeve has some ‘dart fullness,’ which controls its shape,
to fit the sleeve to a curve. These sleeves should have equivalent
fullness or a dart, and this ‘dart fullness’ can be moved from one
position to another. The straight sleeve is the primary sleeve pattern
from which all types of shaped sleeves are designed. Shaped sleeves
are further classified as sleeves with armscye and sleeves without
armscye.
Puff sleeves: Sleeves that have extra fullness in certain parts (hem,
cap or both) of the sleeve. These sleeves can be of any length and
fullness. They are designed in the form of gathers by taking in more
fabric.
Bell sleeve: The name bell sleeve is derived from the basic pattern
‘silhouette.’ A bell sleeve has a smooth cap and a hemline flaring out in
the shape of a bell. These sleeves can be designed to any length and flare
as required.
Petal sleeve: Petal sleeves are similar to the shaped sleeves. The
only variation is that this sleeve resembles a petal as the sleeve sections
cross over each other at the cap. The sleeves are developed at varying
lengths in a number of ways by using a full dartless sleeve block.
Lantern sleeve: Lantern sleeve has two sections where the sleeve
widens itself from the cap and hemline to a style line within the sleeve of
varying length.
Bishop sleeve: These are gathered into a cuff of a long sleeve, fuller
at the bottom than the top.
Cap sleeve: These type of sleeves are often referred as ‘sleeveless’.
These sleeves are designed to cover the shoulders as they are very short.
They do not go below the armpit level.
Leg of mutton sleeve: The sleeve that extremely flares out at the
upper arm and narrows down from the elbow to the wrist.
The upper parts of any garment like jackets, blouse, coats, and shirts can be
attached to the sleeve in a variety of ways. The basic sleeve pattern can be
used as a base to develop numerous designs by making small modifications
in their special characteristics or by changing their style. These sleeve-
bodice combinations are categorized as follows:
Kimono designs: The sleeve merges well with the top of the garment
and is developed by combining the sleeve length with the bodice or top.
Raglan designs: When compared to the above design in raglan
design the sleeve combines with the armhole and the shoulder area of
the garment. This design can be imparted in any garments especially
bodice, dress, blouse, jacket, or coat. In order to improve comfort to the
wearer, the armhole is lowered at varying depths.
Drop shoulder designs: Only a part of the sleeve cap combines with
the garment. It doesn’t if the garment is stitched without the lower
sleeve.
Deep-cut armhole: The entire portion of the armhole combines with
the sleeve.
Angel Design
Dolman sleeve: This sleeve is most preferred when a high arm lift is
required. Here the sleeve is designed with a deep armhole. It is lowered
under the seams with exaggerated folds under the arms.
C. Collar Style
A collar is a decorative and functional feature on the neckline of a garment.
As a decorative feature, the collar frames the face and enhances both the
garment and the wearer. It is decorative and functional as well as providing
warmth to the wearer. Collars may be cut on the bias, on the lengthwise or
crosswise grain depending on the pattern or texture of the fabric and the
effect desired.
Classifications
Types of Collar
2. Flat Collar (convertible) Flat fitting collar with a concave curve: it rolls
over from the neckline seam or lies flat on the body.
5. Roll Collar (both) are known for their standing upright at the edge of
the neck and the rest folding downwards appeal.
9. Turtle Neck (US) / Polo Neck (UK) Roll collar (Convertible) Known for
their high knitted appeal, these collars sit around the neck and are
typically known for this turned down or scrunched under the neck
appeal. It is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting, round,
and high collar that folds over and covers the neck.
12. Jabot Collars (Non-Convertible) are pure love for lace and old-
world charm. They are designed in a way that the square fabric over
the breast comes around like a ruffle. Nowadays available in a lot of
detached forms, these stalwarts can be attached to any V-neckline or
round neckline garment to give that extra oomph factor to your overall
look.
13. NOTCHED COLLAR (Convertible) it is a two piece collar that can
only be worn open. It consists of a lapel or reverse, which is actually
cut in one with the garment, and a collar, which meets the lapel
resulting in a notch. Notched collars are used in all garment
categories from tailored coats and suits to evening wear.
D. Skirt Style
A skirt is the lower part of a dress or gown, covering the person from the
waist downwards, or a separate outer garment serving this purpose.
There are 31 types of skirts and all of them are described and shown
below, have a look and tell us which one you are going to wear on which
occasion.
Types of Skirts
1. A line Skirts
Its basic length is knee length, calf length or ankle length. Looks
much prettier on curvy girls and well suited for both casual and formal
wears.
2. Godet Skirts
This skirt is in the A-line skirt category; just insert triangular shape panels
alongside sewing to enhance the volume.
Its basic length is knee, calf or ankle length. It gives slimmer look. It is
the best pick up for hourglass and apple body shaped girls and it also go for
both casual and formal wears.
3. Circular Skirts
Circular skirt makes a perfect circle at the hem. And the longer variation of
this is a very good pick up for formal apparel.
Basic length is above knee, knee or calf length and is best choice for
slim and hourglass body shape girls. The best occasion to wear is at party
but can be used as formal or casual wears.
4. Asymmetrical Skirts
It gives elegant looks and is of varying lengths. Best choice for tall and
well-toned women and best occasion to wear them is at pool parties,
beaches or casually.
5. Tulip Skirts
With overlapped fabrics in shape of tulip petal, this skirt resembles the
shape of a tulip.
Basic length is above knee or knee length and is best choice for well-
toned and very slim women. It is semi-formal or formal attire.
6. Poodle Skirts
This skirt is still famous since mid of 20th century and it just gives you the
glimpse of vintage era.
Basic length is up to knee, calf and ankle length. Best pick up for
petite and well-toned body women and it can be wear as party as well as
formal wear.
7. Dirndl Skirts
As the named suggests, it is tight at waist, a bit flares from waist line and
then it comedown at knee making a shape of bell. It is usually made from
heavier fabric to holds the structure of the skirt.
Basic length is knee or calf length. Best pick up attire for women who
have well-toned waist and belly part. It is a evening and casual wear.
The hemlines of miniskirts are just above knee and is famous since 1960’s.
The micro-mini skirt’s length is often halfway up the thighs or 1 inch below
where your hips ends.
Basic length is above knee and midway thighs and is well suited for
apple shaped body women and tomboys. And best occasion to wear them is
at friends’ parties, casual parties or cheerleader events.
This is a ready to go wear skirt having vertical pleats all over length.
Basic length is knee, calf or ankle length. It is fit for all body types. It
is a casual and party wear attire.
These are tight and buttoned at your true waist. It gives ornamentation at
your waist line.
Favoring all lengths, these are best pick up for hour glass and well-
toned body women. And can be wear casually or on formal occasion.
Bubble skirt are in fashion since 1950, and as name implies it gives a
bubble effect when tucked back under.
Gives much curvier looks and basic length is above knee length. Best
choice for very slim, well-toned and women having well-toned legs. And
prefer it to wear on prom nights, casual parties or casually.
Maxi skirts are loose and long up to ankle length. These are good choice for
winter season.
Basic length is ankle length and best choice for hourglass and tall
women. It is a casual wear.
This skirt consist of layers of fabric stitched one above other from the hem
adding volume to it.
It gives you extreme ease of movement and basic length is below knee
length. It looks awesome on slim, hourglass and women with well-toned
legs. Wear Gored skirt to beach or pool parties.
17. Straight Skirts
These are tight at waist and hip area and go straight along the legs.
Suggestion is to wear appropriate inner wears so that they don’t show up
awkwardly through fabric.
Similar to A-line skirt, these are well suited for both partying or
an interview.
Basic length is knee, calf or ankle length and is well suited for petite
and statuesque like Gwyneth Paltrow. Usually worn as casual dress but can
be worn as formal attire.
These are usually long in length wrinkled and ruffled up with horizontal
slabs of fabric attached to hem.
Basic length is ankle length. Best pick up for curvier, hourglass and
pear shaped women. And it is a party or casual wear.
It is just a rectangular piece of fabric that girls wrap around their waist. It is
a good choice for almost every woman.
Usual lengths are above knee, knee, calf or ankle length. Looks good
on all body types. Don’t wear it on formal occasions; it is a casual, party
or beach wear.
22. Skorts Skirts
Basic length is midway thigh or above knee. And best pick up for
tomboys and apple shaped women. Wear it at gyms, sports day or casually.
Recently paved into fashion industry this skirt is popular as special dress
for ballet.
Basic length is above knee or knee length. Best choice for hourglass,
pear shaped and inverted triangle shaped women. It is party wear attire.
This is perfect blend of trousers and a skirt. Actually these are trousers
disguised of a skirt.
Ankle length. Best pick up for well-toned body and hourglass shaped
women. It is a casual or beach wear.
It gives you a casual sporty look and also known as circle skirt. Similar to A-
line, this is tight at your actual waist.
Basic length is above knee or midway thighs. Best pick up for tomboys
and apple shaped women. You can wear it while skating, parties and as well
as a casual attire
.
26. Broomstick Skirts
With wrinkles all along the length this skirt gives a perfect shabby cowboy
outlook.
Ankle length skirt. Best pick up for slim or hourglass shaped women.
It is a casual wear.
Designers motivated from the mermaid myths and gave us one of the best
looking attire in our wardrobe.
Basic length is calf or ankle length. Perfectly suited for hourglass and
well-toned body. It is a party as well as a formal wear.
28. Sarong Skirts
Simple fabric that you wrap around your waist to form a skirt. It can be
used as bathing suit if you wrap it around your body.
• Ankle length attire. Best pick up for women with well-toned waist. It is a
pool party or beach wear.
Taken from the culture of peasants and paved into fashion industry. It gives
an ethnic countryside look.
Ankle length dress and looks on all body shapes. Wear it casually.
These are straight and very tight from the knees. If not worn by proper body
types then it can be a disaster.
Basic length is knee, calf or very rarely ankle length. Best pick up for
well-toned or hourglass shaped women. Can be worn at parties or at formal
occasions.
It is first worn by hippies who tried to recycle their denim jeans and further
invaded as a fashion trend. These are very popular with cowboy styles.
E. Dress Style
1. Determine what type shape your body is. Pay attention to your
curves. Look at how they connect your bust, waist, and hips.
The body types below describe women's bodies, not a girl who has not
gone through puberty. Although it is sometimes possible to determine
body type prior to maturity, it is only after growing a bust, hips, and so
on that it will become evident.
Measure the sizes of your bust, waist, and hip. Depending on the size
of each part (in inches), you can determine which shape your body is to
find clothes that properly fit.
There is no "best" or "worst" body type. A certain type may be
fashionable in your particular locale, at this period in time, but this does
not mean your body type is "bad".
All body types have pros and cons. Knowing your body type is about
dressing to look your best.
Even model's bodies fall into one of these categories.
Dress Style for the Apple body type. To dress successfully for the apple
body, you need to direct attention away from your midriff, and wear clothes
to accentuate other parts.
Follow your bodyline and keep details on the top and lower third of
your body. With this body type, it is easy to wear shirts, blouses or
dresses with slight V-necks without looking too fancy or over the top.
Draw attention away from your waist and shoulders/arms (wear long
sleeves), and draw attention to your bust and neck (e.g. V-necks).
Choose flared pants over straight-leg or skinny pants, and to help
balance out wide shoulders and/or a heavy upper body. Wear bottoms
just below your hipbone to draw attention away from your midriff.
Avoid dresses and belts that pinch at your waist. This will most likely
accentuate curves that you may not wish to show off.
Wear tops that drape over any curves if you wish.
Enhancing a feature that is further away or you can cover it with dark
colors.
Dress for a pear body type. The trick to dressing this body type is to wear
anything that adds to your shoulder and bust area. Keep attention to your
upper body, by minimizing the lower half.
If you’re a pear body-type, there are things you can do to make your
hips and butt look slimmer, if you want to make their butts bigger!
Balance your top with your bottom. Try to wear tops that accentuate
your shoulders a bit more.
Avoid pants or tights that narrow your legs.
Wearing a bra that adds to or enhance your bust should be
considered.
Wear straight-leg or slightly flared pants with heels. Skinny pants that
hug your ankles can make your lower body take on the appearance of an
upside-down triangle. Flared pants can make your legs look very thick,
perhaps bowl-legged, in comparison to your upper body.
Dress for a straight or rectangular body type. With this body type, you
may have a long, thin body that tends to lack curves. It is sometimes
referred to as a "boyish" profile. Your aim is to wear clothes that flatter your
thin profile, break up, your silhouette, and create curves that move up and
down from the waist area.
If you have this body type, you can "pinch" in your waist to exaggerate
curves. For example, add a belt to your dress.
Go for ruffles and frills to add texture, volume, and femininity to your
figure. For instance, a dress with a lot of embellishment at the bust will
often give some "weight" there that makes that area look a bit bigger.
Steer clear of menswear clothing. For example, dressing in baggy
jeans and track clothes will make you look like "one of the boys", but not
a potential girlfriend. Instead, opt for the skinny jeans that are made for
your body type, and wear track clothing made for women at your
workout session.
Stock up on miniskirts and bright tights to make the most of your
great legs. They will also add more shape to a straight body.
Use shape wear. A rectangular body type benefits from shaping
undergarments. For example, a bra that adds a cup size will balance out
your angular features without much effort at all.
Dress an hourglass body. Avoid anything that makes you look "boxy"! You
have admirable curves, so embrace them.
Use your waist as the focal point when dressing. This means to wear
snug clothes and accessories around the thinnest part of your waist.
Directing attention here will make your curves stand out even more.
Dress to flatter your beautiful curves by following your body’s outline.
Tailored clothing is usually more flattering. Shapeless or drape-y
clothing tends to over-focus on the bust and make hourglass shapes
look heavy or pregnant.
Balance your top and bottom while accentuating your waist. Draw
attention to your waist with belts and dresses that pinch at the
midsection.
Women with curves can end up revealing too much bust. If a neckline
is too deep, or is inappropriate leave those clothes on the rack.
Shape your bust. If you have an hourglass shape, you probably have
plenty of busts; your main concern should be to wear a supportive bra
so that your chest looks perky, not droopy and saggy.
Embrace V-neck dresses and tops. While many necklines work well for
well-endowed women, V-necks are typically quite flattering. Just be sure
you do not show more cleavage than appropriate to the situation.
DEFINITION OF TERMS:
Halter - is a style of women's clothing strap that runs from the front of the
garment around the back of the neck, and leaves most of the back
uncovered.
Armscye - is the armhole, the fabric edge to which the sleeve is sewn.
Silhouette - is the image of a person, animal, object or scene represented as
a solid shape of a single color, usually black, with its edges matching the
outline of the subject.
Cuff - is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt,
coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg.
Trousers - an outer garment covering the body from the waist to the ankles,
with a separate part for each leg.
Midriff – is the region of the front of the body between the chest and the
waist.
SOURCES:
https://www.healthline.com/health/women-body-shapes
http://theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2017/07/how-to-make-bodice-block-pattern-from.html
https://www.thecuttingclass.com/princess-panel-lines/
https://thefoldline.com/sewing-patterns/vogue-dress-8972/
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/07/different-types-sleeves-dresses.html
https://www.thecreativecurator.com/collars/
https://ushaseminary.com/skirts-types/
https://m.wikihow.com/Dress-for-Your-Body-Type#Dressing_Each_Body_Type
https://www.wikipedia.org/