UNIT 4:- FLAT SKETCHES & SPECIFICATION SHEET

A flat sketch is a line drawing of the fashion designers illustration. The technical sketch
shows every seam and garment detail of the design. This sketch is used by the patternmaker
as a guide for when it is time to draft the pattern for the design. It is also an integral part of
the garment specification or style sheet that goes to the pattern maker and construction team
(sewing team).

FLAT SKETCHING BY HAND

Typically a fashion illustration will either show a frontal view of the design or a 3/4 view of
the design. Rarely the back of the garment is illustrated. When drafting a flat sketch the back
of the garment must also be drawn along with the front. When drawing a flat sketch by it is
useful to have a straight ruler and a set of French curves handy. These tools will enable you
to make accurate straight and curved lines for the sketch.
Lightly Sketch the garment starting with the garment's silhouette first. Next lightly draw all
seams and style elements that are within the body of the garment. Now take a medium to
thick point sharpie and trace over the outline of the garment. Using a fine point pen, trace
over the inner style lines of the garment. To render topstitching in a flat sketch, create dashed
lines where the topstitching would appear on the garment.

Flat schematics and fashion illustrations

Schematic drawings show the flat outline of the garment, with style lines and
construction details. In contrast, the more dynamic fashion illustrations on the envelope
front depict the garment or ensemble on a body (typically an elongated, slender one), and
give the illusion of three-dimensional form and movement.

Flat schematics:—
For perfect symmetry, draw half, fold, and trace. Place tracing paper over your
croquis and mark the center front line. Draw the left side of your garment only, then fold the
tracing paper along the center front line, and trace your markings onto the right side; unfold
and add asymmetrical details, such as zippers.
Draw seam lines as solid lines and topstitching as fine, dotted lines.
• Indicate a zipper with a dotted line of topstitching. For an invisible zipper, draw only
a zipper pull.
• Suggest fullness or gathers within a garment or along the hem by using curved,
uneven lines.
• For conventional buttons and plackets, use the center front line as a guide; a placket
overlaps the center front slightly.
• Designate the inside of a garment or wrong side of a fabric by shading the area
lightly.
• Recess the inside of a pleat or fold at the hem by drawing it shorter than the main
body of the garment.
• Include at least a portion of the back view with your sketch.

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CAD FLAT SKETCHING

Computer-aided design or CAD has truly revolutionized the fashion design process. CAD has
cut costs for line development, reduced production time and has allowed greater creative
control for the fashion designer. Using CAD to create a flat sketch will be difficult if you
have never used a drawing program before. Taking a line from straight to curved and back to
straight again will be frustrating. However with practice it will become easy to create flat
sketches using CAD.
Professional software from companies such as Gerber and Lectra are excellent to
have, unfortunately, most aspiring designers do not have that type of money. A simple
drawing program such as Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw and the free Open Office Draw
software will work just fine. In fact, it is best for beginners to download the free Open Office
Suite and practice with Open Office's software.

Which Flat Sketch Method is better?

The fashion industry of today relies heavily on CAD technology so knowing how to create a
flat sketch using CAD is beneficial to your career. However, if you prefer the traditional hand
flat sketch method you can still do this and create the sketch using CAD. Some designers are
more accurate creating flat sketches by hand.
What these designers will do is hand draw their flat sketch and either scan it into a CAD
software program or trace over it using a drawing tablet and stylus. Tracing over the sketch is
the better option because the drawing can be manipulated at a later date.

DRAWING A KNIT FLAT

• When drawing a knit wear flat, the basic principles are the same as those of woven
• Difference is as knit stretches, darts & seams can be eliminated.
• Fit tends to be closer & tighter to body.
• Knit hem line finishes are also different.

DEVELOPING FLATS FROM LIBRARY

* Over time a designer creates a collection of silhouettes that can be utilized.
* Each designer customizes the library to his own needs & breaks it down accordingly.
* Trace the parts that are the same as your new design such as silhouette, neckline,
pockets etc & add
the new details that alter the original.

SPECIFICATION SHEET
Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of your patterns
into finished garments. Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which improves
turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality
control.

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Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment
measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details.
* The term spec is an abbreviation of the word specification and it means to record all
of the particulars of a garment.
* Those particulars include the garment’s finished measurements, the placement, style
and size of all trims and notions, and the detailing of all stitches, fabrics, etc. used
within the garment.
* The specifications are recorded onto a “spec sheet”.
* Spec sheets are used in every phase of apparel design and production, and their
importance and accuracy are critical.
* When spacing a garment, it is essential to take your time and measure twice, or more
if necessary, to accurately measure all points needed.
* Good specs and precise garment measuring are the way to insure a good fit and a
good quality control.
Below are a few examples of the wording you may see on a size spec file.

Front Length (From HPS)

Front Length (From Shoulder Seam)
Neck Width (Edge to Edge)
Front Neck Drop (Imag. Line to Edge)
Back Neck Drop (Imag. Line to Edge)
Chest / Bust (1" Below Armhole)
Across Shoulder
Across Front 6" From HPS
Across Back 6" From HPS
Armhole (Follow Curve)
Waist (15" Below HPS)
Sweep
Sweep (Above Side Slits or Shirt Tails)
Sleeve Length (From Cap)
Sleeve Inseam Length
Muscle Width (1" Below Armhole)
Elbow (Below Armhole)
Short Sleeve Opening Width
Long Sleeve Opening Width
Shoulder Slope (From HPS)
Single Shoulder Width
Side Slit/Vent Height
Shirt Tail Height
Facing Height at CB
Pocket Height
Pocket Width
Pocket (From HPS)
Pocket (From CF)
Placket Length
Placket Width

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