Pattern making -II

For 2 nd year fashion design

By Temesgen Agazhie
Pattern making
Introduction
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique
which calls for technical ability, and a
sensitivity to interpret a design with a
practical understanding of garment
construction.
For successful dress designing pattern making
forms the fundamental step.
what is pattern making?
In a simple way to define
 Pattern making = pattern drafting, pattern
draping and flat pattern
 Pattern Drafting: it is a design process that
involves taking measurements from a person's
body or a body form, (usually) adding ease to
these measurements, and then transferring these
measurements onto a paper pattern.
 Pattern draping
 Is a design process that involves pinning
and marking pieces of fabric that have
been placed on a body form, or a human
body, into the desired shape.
 These "draped" pieces of fabric are
then corrected and transferred onto
paper using tracing wheels, pencils,
rulers, curves, scissors, and tape.
 The finished paper pattern is placed on
top of fabric as a guide to cutting out
garment pieces
Flat patternmaking:
 Is a design process in which a base block, or
sloper, is used to create a pattern for a new
style. The sloper is traced, then set aside.
 The traced copy is transferred into a new style
using one or more pattern making techniques.
 These techniques include adding fullness,
contouring, pivoting, and slash and spread.
Pattern making for the Fashion Industry Process

Checks the
First pattern is First fit (body
Fashion
drafted through sample is form, live
designer
manual or cut & model or
idea
computer sewn both)

Production Approved by If any correct is

sample is done designer, required with
and its given to internal the patter or
manufacture merchandiser, with the style is
buyer,customer done

Production
Pattern makers
grade it and use
it for bulk * Some companies are so small that the designer
does all of the pattern work and maybe even the
cutting and sewing.
There are two types of pattern making
❑ Computerized pattern making
❑ Manual pattern making
 Computerized pattern making: Computer-aided
design (CAD) is the computer programs create
two- or three-dimensional (2D or 3D) graphical
representations of physical objects.
 Computer software related pattern gives more
time and better modified look as required.
 CAD allows the person to draw, calculate
measurements, adjust and do a multiple things
for creating a better pattern.
Pattern production terms
 First pattern: is the original pattern
developed for each design. This pattern is
generally made from marking paper and usually
requires fitting and adjustments.
 Production pattern: is a pattern set that has
been corrected and without error. The
patterns must contain every pattern piece
required to complete the garment. The pattern
used for grading, for marker making.
 Marker maker: the method used for fabric
layout and to minimize wastage of fabric. The
marker is pencil marked, photo marked or done
on computer.
Dress
 A dress is a garment consisting of a
skirt with an attached bodice (or a
matching bodice giving the effect of
a one-piece garment).
 The hemline of dresses can be as high
as the upper thigh or as low as the
ground, depending on the fashion and
personal taste of the wearer.
 Dresses however can be cooler and it
allow to have many design styles than
trouser, or other garment styles, and
they are still very popular for special
occasions.
 dresses can be either too long or short
for the performance of some physical
activities such as climbing stairs or
ladders.
The basic dress foundation
The basic dress is made up of five
distinct parts;
 front and back bodice,
 a front and back skirt and
 full length sleeves.
Dress Categories
 Dresses may be grouped into two
categories-those with a waistline
seam and those without.
 Dresses designed without the
waistline seam are based on the torso
pattern.
 Dress foundations such as the fitted
sheath, semi-fitted shift, straight
line and A-line silhouettes, princess,
panel, tent, torso dress, blouson, and
oversized dress are based on the
torso pattern.
The Three Basic Dress
Foundations
 Sheath: Fitted with a series of
double darts, tight fitting dress
 Shift: Semi-fitted with a series
of single darts
 Box-fit: Elimination of all waist
darts and an increase of intake
at the side dart
 Dress types
Torso Foundation

 The torso foundation is a bodice and skirt

combination without a waistline seam. The
foundation ends at hip level (HBL).
 The fit is controlled by sets of double-ended
darts and side darts. The side darts lift the
fabric until the cross grain is parallel with the
floor, balancing the garment at the hip level.
The torso is important as a base for other basic
foundations:
 shirts,
 blouses,
 Dartless knit tops,
 dresses and gowns (without waistline seams),
 Jackets/coats, and
 active wear (bodysuits, leotards, and
swimwear).
Princess-Line Foundation
 The princess-line foundation
is used as a base to develop
designs with similar style
line features.
 It also describes a woman's
fitted dress or other
garment cut in long panels
without a horizontal join or
separation at the waist.
 A rarely used alternative
name for the Princess line
was French-dart-line dress
A-Line Princess
 An A-line dress style is tight at the
bodice and flares out toward the
bottom of the dress. Because the dress
looks like the outline of an uppercase
A, it is called an "A-line" dress.
 A-line shapes first known by Dior and
Saint Laurent and saw a revival in the
early 2000s
 A-line dresses can be worn by many
body types because of their use of
vertical seeming, which helps define any
waistline.
Panel dress
 The torso panel is a semi-
fitted foundation without
side seams.
Panel dress with different
colors
 Empire dress
 An Empire silhouette is created by
a woman wearing a high - waisted
dress, gathered near or just under
the bust with a long, loose skirt.
 The outline is especially flattering
to pear shapes wishing to hide the
stomach area or emphasis's the
bust. The shape of the dress also
helps to lengthen the body's
appearance. Here the word "Empire"
refers to the period of the First
French Empire.
EMPIRE DRESS
 Tent dress
 Tent dress is a dress that hangs
loose from shoulder to below the
hips, and does not have a waistline.
 This feature makes them a
favorite of heavier women and
those who are pregnant, since the
style is extremely flowing and
comfortable. However, graceful
skin, women also like this style
because tent dresses are easy to
put on, and because women can
wear tent dresses in multiple ways
according to their personal style
and current trends.
 They are sold in most
department stores or clothes
carrying supermarkets (Target,
Wal-Mart) and can also be home-
made/tailor-made out of many
different fabrics and prints.
TENT DRESS
oversized dress
Thank you