LESSON KNITS

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Discuss the history of knits;
2. Identified and familiarize the knits for draping;
3. Acquired knowledge on how to use knits in draping garments.

LEARNING CONTENT

History of Knits

Knits has the ability to stretch. It comprises entirely of interlaced yarn with
different structure than the woven fabric. Knit can create a smooth, close fir or
when falling freely, it has a uniquely fluid drape.

The earliest knitted fabric is attributed to the Egyptians. Their style of knitting
was closer to the way fishnets are made than to what we know as knitting today.
Breaded dresses of this fishnet construction, when worn over a sheath like
garment made from linen would create a figure-hugging silhouettes.

Around 1000 AD, knitting with two needles emerged as a technique in

making fabric. The evidence of knitting can be found in medieval paintings and in
surviving garments including jackets, caps, and gloves that came from the 16th and
17th century.

In 1589, beginning of mechanization knitting with the stocking frame by

Reverend William Lee. Through the industrial revolution, the built of machines
foundation in the mid-19th century gained in stature.

Coco Chanel – the first designer who truly popularize the wearing of knits
by women for daywear. The first garments she experimented was to be a polo shirt
cast off by a stable boy, which she cut up and tailored to fit herself.

After World War II, when textiles were in short supply, Chanel fashioned
knits that were more commonly used for undergarments into modern and
comfortable tops, skirt, and jackets often with bright stripes and pattern

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 Technological advances in yarns and knitting in the last half century have
brought us from those old polo shirts to the state-of-the-art fabrics used for legwear
and hosiery, swimming, and shaping and slimming, with such amazing qualities as
moisture wicking and thermoregulation.

Various types of Dress made from Knit

Cotton Knit Top with Ribbed Neckline

Creating fitted garments from knit fabric
is more commonly done by pattern drafting than
draping, because it is difficult to pin the
fabric to the form while stretching it. If the
garment is tight, and the stretch of the knit is
being utilized, such as
in swimwear, it is
better to draft the
pattern. If the knit
fabric is intended to
softly lie over the
body, or to be draped
in folds, then it works
well to drape it.

Strapless Knit Top

This classic strapless style can be done
in any fabric, but works particularly well in
knits. The fabric is stretched over the bodice,
resulting in beautiful gathers that conform to
the shape of the body and
are then tacked lightly
to the lining to keep them
in place.

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Sample of Draping Project:

Halter-neck Knit Top

Halter-neck Knit Top this knitted garments exhibits
a sporty chic and whimsical attitude.
The multiple neck straps are not necessary to hold
up the top, but they serve well to keep the top edge even
since there is no understructure to support the light knit.
A halter-style neckline is created by the ring of knit that
holds the straps.

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Pelobello, RJ
Step 1
 Set front by pinning CF to CF of form.
 Smooth fabric equally toward both sides.
 Pull slightly over the bust to determine how much of the stretch you need to
utilize to eliminate the need for any darting or seaming.
 Repeat for the back.

Step 2
 Turn front
over back and
pin side
seams.
 Tape
neckline. Take
care to keep
side bust area
high before
sloping down
at the back.
 Top edge
of back should cover bra line.
 Check photograph to
determine top edge of front. It
is a little bit lower in the
center.

Step 3
 Set
neckline
halter
drape and
CF straps

Step 4
 Set aside straps.

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  Readjust neckline drape so it looks like the photograph—not too tight, not
too loose.

Marking and Trueing

Step 1
 Mark knit top with pencil or chalk
before removing it from the form (not
shown).
 Sometimes with knits, the pencil or
chalk does not give enough definition.
If so, try a felt-tip or gel pen, taking
care it does not bleed through to the
form.
 Cross mark more frequently with knits
than with woven fabrics (not shown).
 Remove the tape (not shown).
 Re-block onto paper grid to the original measurement.

Step 2
 True curves as marked, and correct
against the photograph.
 Mark seam allowances, which on knits
are often 3⁄8" (1 cm) to allow for
overlocking.
 Use V-notches, rather than cutting in
on knit fabrics.

Analysis
 Compare the fi t of your knit top with that in the photograph. Does it lie
smoothly over the front torso? If it is too tight, it will wrinkle at the under bust
or waist. If it is too loose, it will sag slightly.
 The right degree of utilization of stretch takes some experience. Study this
by making the top both slightly smaller and larger, and observe the
differences in the fit.
 Visualize the top on a muse. Is it low enough in the neckline to be fun and
flirtatious? Are the straps spaced in an interesting way?
 When looking at the straps, pay attention to the negative spaces. Rather
than looking at the straps themselves, focus on the spaces between them,
and then compare those shapes to those on the photograph. This may help
you determine whether you have spaced them correctly

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Variations of Knitted Tops

Top with kimono Sleeves

The knit used in this blouse utilizes
stretch only in the sleeve lift. The fabric
is a rayon that has a heavy drape, which
works well with the volume in the peplum.
The “kimono sleeve” is named for an
ancient form of
Japanese garment,
but the term is used
today for a sleeve that
is cut in one piece with
the bodice.
For this drape you
do not need grids on the
peplum pieces, as you are not utilizing the
stretch in those areas.

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The character of draped knits
This style shows off the beauty of draped knit fabric, which tends to fall
and flow heavily and evenly. It is a good exercise to study the many different
weights and fibers of knit fabric and familiarize yourself with the different looks
they create.

REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-e187301311.html
February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-
making-e186946068.html February 10, 2021

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