LESSON FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have;

1. Identified the different types of functional finishes used in
draping;
2. Acquired knowledge, ideas and skills on the different functional
finishes
3. Applied the different types of functional finishes

LEARNING CONTENT

Functional finishes is a part of the design process. As the patterns of the

garments are developed, the designs of closures, hems and facings must be
considered. The design details can be functional or inconspicuous and they can
also be both functional and decorative.
The following are the different functional finishes that usually used in
garment construction.

A. Hem
Straight edges usually finished with a simple hem. When cutting or tearing a
muslin in preparation for draping, there should always and extra fabric at the
edges for hemmed.
Width of the hem depends on where it is located.

Example of hems
Straight skirt - usually 2 inches
wide
Flared skirt – must be narrow
or be eased in to absorb the extra
fullness that appears as the edge is
turned up.
Pants/Sleeve – measure
approximately 1 ¼ inches

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 For sheered fabrics – sometimes very wide or narrow depends on the
desired effect.

Standard hems are usually finished with blind stitch machine or by hand.
Very narrow hems can be sewn by edge-stitch machine of by hand rolled.
For sport wear are often top-stitched

B. Facings
Facings are used to finish the edge of fabric when hem is impractical.
Usually the curved and irregularly shaped edges should be faced. For example,
neckline, armholes and collars, are finished with facings.
Facing are usually cut in the same fabrics as the rest of the garments.
Occasionally, in order to achieve a smooth finish, a lightweight material or fabric
is used to face the garment that is made with heavyweight or bulky fabric.

Process on how to cut a facing:

1. Prepare a piece of muslin large enough to cover the area of the rough
edge that is to be finished.
2. Place the pattern piece of the area that is to be finished over the
prepared muslin for the facing. Close any darts that are in the area to be
faced. The grain of the facing must match the grain of the garment
pattern.
3. Trace the outline of the neckline or armhole, plus at least 2 ½ inches of
the intersecting seams.
4. Remove the garment pattern, and complete the outer edge of the facing.
Facings should be at least 2 ½ inches wide, but they must not go beyond
the vanishing point of any darts.
5. In order to keep the facing inside the garment, both the neckline and the
armhole circumference of the facing should be approximately ½ inch
smaller than the neckline and/or armhole circumferences of the garment.
To reduce the size of the facing, take off ¼ inch at the shoulder seams
and the underarm seams of the facing.
6. Seam allowances on the facings should be one-half the width of the
seam allowances on the garment. Add seam allowances, and extra trim
away any excess muslin.

All-in-One Facings
All-in-one facing are used on
sleeveless garments with deep necklines and
narrow shoulders.

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Deep Diagonal Facings
Deep Diagonal neckline,
facings cut with the grain position that
will prevent stretching of the neckline.

Shaped Hem Facings

Bodice Front Facings
A bodice with front closure, cut
the facing from the shoulder to the
waistline, so that it measures at least
2 ½ inches at the shoulder seam and
2 ½ inches from the center front at the
waistline.
Skirts with shaped
hemlines such as the sarong,
the peg, and the slit skirt are
often finished with facings. An
alternative finishing method is
the narrow edge-stitched hem.
Facings provide a smooth edge
and more weight, which is a
decided advantage with certain
fabrics. A narrow edge-stitched
hem gives a lighter and more
airy effect. The disadvantage of
both methods is that it is difficult
to adjust the skirt length after the
skirt has been finished.

Jacket Facings
The jacket facing follows the
outline of the front from the shoulder
to the hemline. The facing reaches to
approximately the center of the
shoulder and should be 3 inches
wide, reaching from the center front to
the lining seam. This kind of facing
should overlap 1 ½ inches with the
hem of the jacket at the hemline.
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Sewing Tips for Facings
All faced areas of a garment should be interfaced its either a
woven or nonwoven interfacing may be used. The interfacing selected
should be compatible with the weight of the garment fabric. The
interfacing should be stay-stitched to the garment along the edges to
be finished. Fusible interfacing can be stitched or fused to the facing.

1. Stay-stitch all curved edges that are to be faced.

2. Stay-stitch the interfacing to the garment edge. When using the
fusible interfacing, fuse or stitch it to the facing.
3. Join the shoulder seams of the garment.
4. Prepare the facing:
a. For neckline facing, join the shoulder
seams and press the seams open.
b. Finish the outer edge of the facing.
5. Pin the neck edge of the facing to the neck
edge of the garment, keeping the right sides together and
matching the center front and shoulder seams. If a zipper is to
be inserted at the center back, fold the facing as follows:
a. For a lapped or welt placket zipper.
i. Fold back the left back facing 3/8
inch from the center back thread
tracing.
ii. Fold the left center back garment
seam allowance over the facing over
the facing at the center back thread
tracing.
iii. Fold back the facing on the right side along the center
back thread tracing.
iv. Fold back the seam allowance on the right side of the
garment over the facing, leaving a 1/8 inch extension
beyond the center back.
b. For a slot or centered zipper
i. Both sides of the center back, fold
back the facing ¼ inch form the
center back threading tracing.

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 ii. Fold the center back garment seam allowances
along the center back thread tracing over the facing.
6. Sew the facing to the garment by stitching adjacent to the stay-
stitching on the right side of the garment.
7. Clip into the seam allowance in order to allow the facing to lie flat
without pulling or puckering. At the corners, cut away the seam
allowance as illustrated.
8. Back-stitch the edge seam and turn the facing to the inside the
garment
9. Press the facing, rolling the seam line toward the inside of the
garment.
10. Insert the zipper and slip-stitch the facing to the zipper
tape.
11. Tack the facing to the seam allowance of any intersecting
seams.

Waistline Finishes
Skirts and pants that end at the waistline are usually finished with
a waistband. However, alternative ways to finish a waistline that can
add design interest or create a flattering finish. An elasticized
waistband or drawstring finish automatically adjust to fit various
waistline measurements.
Pants or skirts are designed to finish at a lowered waistline, the
waistband is usually eliminated and the upper edge of the garment is
faced. In finishing the waistline with a facing, see the previous section
on facings. The waistband can be style and shaped in various ways.

Standard Waistband
The standard waistband is a folded band of fabric cut to fit snugly,
but without binding, around the waistline. The waistband usually
interfaced so that it is firm enough to hold the skirt or pants securely in
place. The belt loops may be added as desired.

Preparation of Muslin
1. Measure the waistline circumference, and 5/8 inch for ease.

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 2. Decide on the width of the waistband. The standard waistband is
usually 1 ¼ inches wide, it can be wider or narrower depends on
the desired.
3. Cutting the muslin:
a. Lengthwise grain – waistline circumference measure with
1 inch added for ease, plus 1 ¼ inch extension
b. The standard waistband is 3 ½ inches
4. On the muslin, draw a lengthwise grain line at the center of the
muslin for the upper folded edge.
5. On each side of the center, draw a lengthwise grain line 1 ¼
inches from the center fold line.
6. For a side opening, starting at the left end of the waistband:
a. Mark off ½ inch for the seam allowance with a cross grain
line.
b. Mark off 1 ¼ inches for the underlap with another cross
grain line.
c. From the underlap line, mark the back waistline plus ½ inch
ease with a cross mark. This indicates the location of the
side seam.
d. From the side seam cross mark, mark the front waistline
plus ½ inch ease with a cross grain line.
e. Indicate the center front and center back with cross marks

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 7. For center back opening:
a. Mark off ½ inch for the seam allowance with cross grain
line.
b. From the cross grain line, mark ½ the back waistline
measurements plus ¼ inch for ease with a cross mark for
the side seam.
c. Form the side seam, mark off the front waistline
measurements plus ½ inch for ease with a cross mark for
the other side seam.
d. From this cross mark, mark off one-half the back waistline
measurements plus ¼ inch for ease with a cross grain line.
Add ¼ inches for the underlap and finish with another cross
grain line.
e. Indicate the center front with a cross mark.

Closures
There are different types of closure desired for a garment and it
must be considered before the start of the draping process. Most of
the apparel items, need an opening in order to get into them aside from
a wrap around the body.
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 These openings need some sort of closure, and the closure,
serve as an functional and it also provides opportunity to the designers.
The closure affect the muslin preparation if extensions for
overlap and cut in one facings are needed.
The following are the common closures used in the garment
construction.

a. Zippers
The most frequently used device for closing a garment. It
is the most functional unless deliberately decorative, zippers can
be inconspicuously hidden from view. Zippers are available in
variety of shapes, sizes and colors and it can be also matched
with fabrics so that when closed, they appear no different from
an ordinary seam.

4 TYPES OF ZIPPER
These four types of zipper serves a distinct purpose.

1. Ordinary zipper
This is a commonly used zipper, which is securely held
together at one end with a prong.
It is commonly used in the openings of the dresses as well
as the openings in skirts and pants.

2. Placket zipper
This kind of zipper is held together at both ends with prongs
and it usually used side seam dress plackets and in pocket
openings.

3. Invisible zipper
This is uniquely designed so that when it sewn into a seam,
no stitches show on the outside; thus it appears invisible when it
closed.

4. Separating zipper
This zipper separate completely, it usually heavyweight and
therefore they are appropriate to use in jacket and coats.

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 All this four types of zipper can be
apply in several ways except the
invisible type.

1. Lapped or Welt
In this way of attaching the zipper,
it is inserted and lies on the side of the
seam with the seam allowance forming
a slight extension on the opposite side that permits the zipper to
completely hidden. The lapped or welt application is usually used for
the opening of a skirt or pair of pants. It is usually applied in the front
or back opening in a dress.

2. Fly
This way of attaching the zipper is inserted under a fly is similar
to the welt zipper, except that the fly forms much wider welt. There is
a separate facing used to finish the edge of the fly and a separate
extension is inserted under the zipper. It is usually used for front
opening of the pants. This is based on the construction of men’s
trousers. Occasionally, a fly front with a separating zipper is used to
close a coat or jacket.

3. Centered or Slot
The zipper is inserted in the centered behind the seam. It is top-
stitched into place with the stitching both sides approximately ¼ inch
form the edge. It is usually used for a neck opening.

4. Invisible
This I the unique way of attaching/construction of zipper with a
results that hides all stitching. This can be used as the closure for a
neckline opening or for the opening of a skirt or pair of pants.

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BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES
Buttons and buttonholes are used to close a garment opening,
there significant design feature was planned carefully.
Buttons are made of various materials. When button closure is to
be part of the design, it must take into consideration as the muslin is
prepared for draping. To function, buttons are buttonholes require an
overlapping of fabric, which means fabric extension must be planned
on both sides of the projected opening. The width of the extension
depends on the size of the button, the weight and texture of the fabric
and whether the garment is to be single or double breasted.

VELCRO
Velcro is a secure, adjustable closure that is simple to use. It is
probably the safest and easiest of all fasteners to handle and it is
particularly suitable for children wear and clothing for people with
disabilities.
Velcro is consist of two tapes with fibers projecting for the
surface. One tape is made of minute hooks and the other tape has a
fuzzy, loop surface. When pressed together, the two tapes from a
sturdy closure than can be opened only by pulling the apart. It is
available in yard and in patches of various sizes.

REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-
e187301311.html February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-
making-e186946068.html February 10, 2021

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