LESSON THE BASIC JACKET

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Identified the points in draping the basic jacket.
2. Understand how to create the basic tailored jacket;
3. Acquired knowledge and skill in draping the basic tailored jacket.

LEARNING CONTENT

The Basic Jacket

The basic tailored jacket is based on the man’s suit coat. It is shaped to a
greater or lesser extent away from the body. Uniquely placed seams and darts are
used to achieve this shaping. A panel originating at the front and back of the
armholes usually replaces the side seams. Additional darts may be placed below
the bust for a closer fit to the body.

A. Side Panel
Starting approximately ¾ inches below the screw
level at the front and back of the arm plate, tape the
outline of the side panel. After the jacket has been
draped and ease has been added, the panel will be
wider.

B. Preparation of Muslin
1. Tear the muslin:
a. Length – from the top of the neckband to
the hipline plus 6 inches
b. Width – from the center front to the
center back at the hipline plus 15 inches.
2. Draw a crosswise grain line for the hip level 4 inches up from the lower
torn edge of the muslin.
3. On the dress form, measure the distance from the apex to the hip level;
draw the bust level cross grain line on the muslin
4. Determine the width of the front, the back and the side panels.
a. For the front panel, measure the distance from the center front to
the side panel seam, and add 5 ½ inches.
b. For the back panel, measure the distance from the center back
to the side panel seam,
and add 3 ½ inches.
c. For the side panel,
measure the width of
the side panel at the
hipline and add 3 ½
inches.
5. On the muslin, draw the
lengthwise grain lines to
indicate the front, side and the
back panels. Cut along the
grain lines.
6. Draw the center front grain
line 3 inches from the right
torn edge of the front panel.
7. Draw the center back grain
line 1 inch from the left torn
edge of the back panel.
8. Separate the panels, cutting along the grain lines.
C. Draping Steps
1. Place the muslin front and back onto the dress form, with the grain lines
aligned with the tapes on the form. Pin along the bust level at the apex,
center front, center back, and side panel
seams. Leaving ease, pin at the hip level
at the center front, side panel seams and
center back.
2. Pin at the neckline, the center front and the
center back.
3. Keeping the cross grain straight, smooth
the front muslin over the shoulder.
4. Smooth some of the excess fullness
above the bust level into a neckline dart.
This dart should be approximately 1 3/8
inches from the center front at the neckline
and should end at least 2 inches above the
apex. Shape the neckline, leaving enough
ease for a pinch of approximately 1/8 inch.
Some fullness is also shifted to the lower
part of the armhole, to be absorbed by the
side panel seam when the body of the
jacket is shaped.
5. Drape the back neckline and shoulder seam,
shifting the muslin ¼ inch off center at the
center back. Leave approximately ¼ inch ease
in the back shoulder seam.
6. Pin the front and back shoulder together with
the seam allowances extended. Trim away the
excess muslin.
7. Place the side panel into position, with the
cross grain lines at the hip and bust level
aligned with the front and back panels. Pin the
side panel to the side seam at the arm plate and
the hipline. Cut away some of the excess
muslin at the shoulder level. Letting the seam
allowance extend outward, pin the side panel to
the front and back panels, shaping the jacket
as desired. Maintain at least 3 inches of ease
at the underarm and 4 inches of ease at the
hipline.
8. If more shape is desired, add a front dart and/or shape the center back
seam in slightly at the waistline
9. Determine a temporary armhole with style tape ½ inch back from the
edge of the shoulder pad at the top of the shoulder, ½ inch beyond the
armplate at the side seam according to the measurements on the
 following table. Measure the armhole depth down from the armhole
ridge, over the center of the armplate to the side seam. Mark lightly

Armhole Depth for Basic Jacket

Size 6 8 10 12
Armhole depth 6¼ 6¾ 6½ 6 5/8

10. Mark the neckline and shoulder; mark

the seams and darts Steps 7-10
11. Remove the jacket body from the
dress form, and true the seams and
darts. Cross marks the seams.
12. True the neckline, lowering it ¼ inch
at the center back, ¼ inch at the
shoulder seam and 1 inch at the
center front.
13. True the armhole. Leaving the
underarm at the side seam on grain
for approximately ¾ inch, use
Fairgate vary from curve to shape the
armhole. (see illustrations below)
 14. If desired, add additional muslin below the waistline at the center back
seam for a vent. Add seam allowances and cut out. This type of jacket
is usually made with a notched collar that is developed after the body
has been completed.( See finished pattern below)

15. Tailored garments must be carefully

fitted before the pattern is perfected.
To prepare for the muslin fitting:
a. Trace the outline of the pattern
pieces for the interfacing.
b. Duplicate all pattern pieces for the
right side of the garment.
c. Apply fusible weft interfacing to the
fronts, the tops of the side panels,
the hem and the back vent.
d. Apply a secondary piece of fusible
interfacing in the front shoulder
and armhole areas.
e. Sew percaline, a lightweight woven
interfacing cut on the bias, to the
upper section of the back. Let the
lower edge of the percaline hang free.
(Fusible weft interfacing may also be
used if the percaline is not available).
f. Sew the tape around the armholes
and neckline, along the shoulder
seams, and at the front edge of the
pattern pieces. If the front seam that
 joins the front to the side panel as any bust ease, tape the seam at the
side panel, where it has be absorbed.
g. Apply fusible interfacing to the collar and wherever else the garment might
need support.
h. Sew the garment pieces together with a large machine stitch that can
easily be removed if adjustments are needed.
i. Insert the shoulder pads.
16. Replace the jacket on the dress form. Check the fit and make any necessary
adjustments before drafting the sleeve.

REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-e187301311.html
February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-making-
e186946068.html February 10, 2021