LESSON THE TWO PIECE

4 JACKET SLEEVE

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Identified the points in draping the two piece jacket sleeve.
2. Understand how to create the two piece jacket sleeve;
3. Acquired knowledge and skill in draping the two piece jacket sleeve.

LEARNING CONTENT

The Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve

The traditional tailored jacket sleeve is cut in two piece, permitting subtle
shaping that conforms to the forward bend of the arm below the elbow. The cap of
the sleeve fits smoothly into the armhole, with just the right amount of ease so that
the sleeve hangs straight, with no pull or excessive fullness. The sleeve must be
cut wide enough to comfortably accommodate wearing a blouse or sweater under
the jacket. This sleeve also serves as the foundation when developing an
unmounted jacket sleeve.

Sleeve Measurements for the Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve

size 6 8 10 12
Sleeve length 23 23 1/2 24 24 1/2
Cap height 6 1/8 6¼ 6 3/4 6 1/2
Biceps 14 14 ½ 15 15 ½
circumference

A. Developing the Two-piece Jacket Sleeve

1. Fold a large sheet of paper in half.
2. On the fold, mark the appropriate sleeve length.
3. Square lines up from the fold for the top of the sleeve and the wrist.
4. Measure the cap height down from the top of the sleeve, and square a line
up from the fold at this point for the biceps level.
5. Establish the elbow level by dividing the underarm length in half and by
indicating the elbow level 1 inch above the halfway mark.

Top of the sleeve

Biceps
elbow
Wrist

6. Mark on-half the biceps circumference on the biceps line.

7. The wrist circumference of a jacket sleeve usually measures 10 ½ inches.
Mark one-half the wrist circumference on the wrist line.
8. Connect the wrist with the biceps and extend the line to the top of the
sleeve.

9. Add 1 inch extension at the

underarm and a 1 ½ inch extension
at the bottom of the sleeve. Cut out
the sleeve.
10. Open the sleeve. Draw a line for the
center of the sleeve, and draw the
other underarm line. Complete the
other half of the biceps line, the
elbow and the wrist.
B. To Shape the Cap
1. At the top of the sleeve, mark off 2
inches at each side of the center.
2. On the biceps line, mark of 5/8 inch from
the underarm seam at the back and 1 ¾
inches from the underarm seam at the
front of the sleeve. Connect these points
with the 2 inch marks at the top of the
sleeve.
3. Using the Fairgate vary form curve, shape the cap. The edge of the cap
should measure 1 to 1 ½ inches larger than the armhole.

4. Cut out the sleeve cap.

5. Cross marks the sleeve cap; one cross mark
3 inches from the underarm seam in front
and two cross marks, ½ inch apart, 3 inches
from the underarm seam in back.

NOTE: when the two-piece jacket sleeve

has reached this point of development, it
may serve as the foundation pattern for
an unmounted jacket sleeve.
C. To Shape the Elbow
1. Trace the center of the sleeve and the biceps and elbow lines to the other
side of the sleeve. Fold the sides of the sleeve to the center, overlapping
the extensions.

2. Open the sleeve, and on the elbow line slash the back and front of the
sleeve to the fold.
3. At the wrist, place a mark 1 ½ inches from the center toward the front of
the sleeve. Draw a line from this point to the center of the sleeve at the
elbow, and trace it to the other side of the paper. This line is the new center
of the sleeve.
4. Refold the lower part of the sleeve, bringing the sides to the new center
and letting the back sections overlap at the elbow. The front sections will
spread at the elbow.
5. Tape the sleeve into the fold position along the underarm seam and the
back overlap.
6. Square off the wrist of the sleeve by adding approximately ¾ inch to the
length of the back fold, and connect this point to the wrist at the front fold.
7. Cut away the excess paper.
8. Draw the seam lines:
a. Back – ½ inch from the fold at the cap curving to the fold at the
elbow.
b. Front – 2 inches from the fold at the cap. Using the straight end of
the hip curve, draw a gently curving line to a point 1 inch from the
fold at the wrist. Place cross marks in the front seam, 3 inches down
from the cap, and 4 inches up from the wrist.
9. Draw a grain line on the underarm section by tracing the original center of
the sleeve line.

10. Trace the underarm section to another piece of paper.

11. Cut the sleeve draft at the seam lines, and trace the top of the sleeve
section to another piece of paper.
12. On each sleeve section:
a. Back seam – add ¼ inch at the biceps level, and take away ½ inch
at the wrist.
b. Front seam – add ½ inch at the wrist tapering to nothing at the elbow.
13. Using the hip curve, blend the seams.
14. At the wrist of each section, add a 1 ½ inch hem. On the under sleeve
section, add an extension for the placket at the back wrist 4 inches long by
1 ½ inches wide. At the extensions, add ¼ inch at the hem for inches.
15. On the upper sleeve section, add a turn back of the placket at the back
wrist 4 inches long by 1 ½ inches wide. Leaving a 1 ¼ inch seam allowance,
cut off the corner at the hem at a 45 degree angle in order to form a miter
when the sleeve vent is finished.
16. Add ½ inch seam allowances all around both sections of the sleeve, and
add a 1 ½ inch hem. Cut out the pattern.

17. Transfer the sleeve pattern to the muslin. (make sure to include the seam
allowances and a 1 ½ inch hem) cut out and baste the section together.
The front seam of the top of the sleeve section must be stretched to fill the
underarm section.
18. Ease the cap to flannel bias tape, and set the sleeve into the jacket.
19. Fit the jacket on the dress form or preferably, a live model.

REFERENCES

Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from

https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-e187301311.html
February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-making-
e186946068.html February 10, 2021