UNIT 2

INTERMEDIATE DRAPING

This unit contains a series of topics that helps you to drape the different
parts of the garments. It also provide a lesson that will help you to understand the
different types of garments and the variations of the garment silhouettes.

This unit, aims to find balance of an individual garment or ensemble. The

multiple elements in garments such as blouse or jackets are more complex to
coordinate than the simpler shapes

UNIT OUTCOMES:

At the end of the unit, then you must have;

1. Identified and familiarized the different parts of blouse, skirts, pants,

sleeves, and collars for draping;
2. Acquired knowledge and skills in draping different garment parts
3. Applied the skills in draping the garment parts;
4. Practiced the knowledge and skills in draping the garment parts.

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Pelobello, RJ
 LESSON SKIRTS
1

LEARNING OUTCOME

At the end of the lesson, you must have:

1. Identified and familiarized the different types of skirt for draping;
2. Acquired knowledge and skills in draping different parts of skirt.

LEARNING CONTENT

Skirts design has a variety of shapes that is seemingly endless. Pleated,

darted, tucked, gored, gathered, and ingeniously seamed, each silhouette was
unique.
The earliest skirts were made from simple woven panels worn by both men
and women. Culture from culture differences lay only in the way the panels were
wrapped or tied.
Kanga – known as the skirt of Africans of Tanzania.
Izaar – from the Islamic tribes of the Arabian peninsula
Sarong – a Malay garment worn widely in Southeast Asia and the Pacific
Islands that continues to appear in modern fashion as a swimsuit wrap or resort
skirt.
In Western Europe, peasant skirt used a simple ropelike belt drawn in the
fullness. Traditional Indian Skirts or ghagras were made from a very thin silk, with
the fabric simply folded repeatedly until it fit the waistline.
Over time, as womens’ bodices become more fitted and shaped, skirt
panels began to be cut and more specifically fit. Skirts generally remained long,
modestly covering the ankle at least for nonworking women they fluctuated in width
and silhouette, ranging from the rectangular shape, supported by panniers.
Skirts held out by peticoats that was not really seen again until Dior
introduced extravagant full skirts with small waists that become the silhouette of
the decade and re-established Paris as a fashion capital.
In present, the skirts hemlines continue to go up and down, bubble skirts go
in and out. Skirts today often uses the same timeless techniques of darting, tucking
and gathering to sculpt skirt silhouettes that seem fresh yet familiar.

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Pelobello, RJ
Skirt Silhouettes
Dirndls, ballet and kilt skirts are constructed from the basic rectangular
panels of fabric held in at the waist, as it worn for centuries in many cultures around
the world.
Pleating is a techniques that provides fullness for the kilt, dirndls and ballet
skirts, the volume of the skirt is simply created by gathering the fabric at the waist.
The length of the skirts and the amount of gathers are result of nay
variations or different skirt silhouettes.

Dirndls – a European folkloric style of skirt worn by peasants for over a hundred
of years in regions and cultures around the world.
It is made from a simple woven panels held at the waist by a hand or
drawstring.

Ballet Skirt – ballet skirt is inspired by dance, generally understood as any skirt
that constructed of large volume of fabric of any length, it is usually very lightweight
and gathered in at the waist.

Different Types of Skirt Silhouettes

Kilt
Kilt is a traditional Scottish garment that is worn by
men and women. It is a rectangular length woolen tartan,
constructed to lie flat in front and then pleat symmetrically
around the body.
The pleats is stitched vertically in place and
released at the high hipline, creating the freedom of
movement.

Straight Skirt
Straight skirt is seen as a modern version of the dirndl as it also constructed
from a simple woven rectangle wrapped around the body.

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Pelobello, RJ
 It uses darts to eliminate the fullness, and it
creates a smoother line. This type of skirt will have pleat
or slit opening from the hem in the center back for ease
of movement.
It is also known as “pencil skirt” a slim fitting
garment was popularized during WW II (World War II)
when there is a struggling
economy dictated cutting
down on fabric usage. This
was the time as the
beginning of working
women’s practical, the basic
skirt has evolved into a
timeless fashion staple.

A-line Skirt
Flared or “A-line” skirt refers to a style of skirt that
is closely fitted at the waist or hip and becomes fuller at
the hem. The silhouette drape of this skirt depends on
the final fabric that is being used. Thin silk fabric in a
longer length will create a softer, more flowing look at the
hemline.
The draped of this skirt is over the high hip, and
the extra fabric will fall toward the front, it allows for a
much smaller dart than the
straight skirt.
The closure of this
skirt determine whether you
want at the side or back
zipper.

Bias Circle Skirt

The bias circle skirt has no dart or seaming used, the fabric is simply
smoothed over the waist and high hipline and allowed to fall freely into flares at
the hemline.
The lengthwise grain fall at the center front and back while the crosswise
grains falls at the side seams, and the true bias at the princess lines. The
generous amount of fabric at the hemline and the use of the bias areas create a
wonderful, swirling flow when in motion.

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Pelobello, RJ
 This type of skirt was became a signature look
of the optimistic during 1950s.

Bias line
The bias line are marked as a double line 1/8”
(0.5 cm) apart.

Bill Blass Skirt

Bill Blass skirt has a basic cut similar to the
straight skirt. The difference is the shape gives a
more dynamic attitude. The side seam of this skirt
follows the contours of the body and the hemline
“pegs legs” or narrow at the knee.
It is a high waist and close fit design creates
accentuate classic, curvy feminine hourglass shape.

Before the start of drape, consider any

difference in the proportion between what you see in
the photograph and the actual size you are working
with. It start in deciding the length of the skirt. This will
give an easier way to establish the rest of the
proportions.
It needs how much ease or extra fabric will be
built in the skirt. It may look very fitted to the model
but it needs to have at least 1-2” (2.5-5 cm) ease in
the hip area.

As to begin the drape, it needs to visualize the

wearer the shape of the skirt, and the strong, sexy
look.

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Pelobello, RJ
 Variations of Skirt Silhouettes

Yoked skirt with Gathers and Flare

The fitted panel or yoke in this kind of skirt provides
a base that supports the gathered and the flared lower
section.
The Yoke of the skirt ends at the high hipline and
no dart is needed. The top edge will curve and creates a
fit.

The hem falls in rolling flares, similar to the bias

skirt. The skirt section is not rectangular but curved, its
side areas will give some bias
grain and gives the skirt a
lovely swing when it moves.

REFERENCES
Draping for Fashion Design. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-for-fashion-design-
e187301311.html February 10, 2021
Draping the Complete Course. Retrieved from
https://www.pdfdrive.com/draping-the-complete-course-
e157984926.html February 10, 2021
Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
https://www.pdfdrive.com/dress-design-draping-and-flat-pattern-
making-e186946068.html February 10, 2021

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Pelobello, RJ