FA 221

DRAPING
ROLLY JOHN F. PELOBELLO
BEGINNING
OF
DRAPING
LEARNING CONTENT

A. Preparation of Muslin for Draping

B. Draping the non-woven panel
C. Seam Allowances
D. Basic Patterns
E. Bodices and Bustier
F. Dresses
LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the unit, students must have;

– Acquired knowledge and skills in preparing the
muslin for draping
– Discussed and practiced the different ways in
preparing the muslin for draping;
– Familiarized and understand the basic patterns
in draping.
Preparation of Muslin
for Draping
Tearing
Blocking
Pressing
1. Tearing
a.Estimate the size of muslin needed
b.Clipping the edge of the muslin.
c. The true lengthwise and crosswise
grains starts from the edge of the
muslin
2. Blocking
–Reshape the muslin
–Squared the
fabric/muslin
3. Pressing
– Set the position of the yarns.
– Press the lengthwise and crosswise
grain
– Never press the bias
– Steam by dry iron
Draping Non-
Woven Fabric
History
– earliest clothing was made from leaves
grasses, and bark or, in colder climates,
animal skins and furs
– Development of weaving
– Development of different techniques
Early garments forms
– Chiton and Peplos : Greeks
– Toga worn by Romans
– Draping has been elaborated
– Flax (line) and wool the most common fabric
used in draping
 Modern Era
– Appearance of draped square cut panels in Alphones
Mucha and Maxfield Parrish
– Isadora Duncan: founder of modern dance, famous in
wearing her version of tunic.
– Middle of 20th century: Mariano Fortuny – great Italian
and clothing designer, famous in his timeless garments
from two rectangles of pleated silk.
 Preparing the Muslin
– Tearing the muslin – Marking grainlines
– Understanding the with pen
grainlines – Pinning
– Marking grainlines
– Thread tracing
Understanding the Grainlines
Tearing the muslin
–Pieces are torn in predetermined
measurements
–It gives accurate measurements
Step 1
• Tear selvage edge off by clipping in
about ." (1.5 cm), grasping edge fi rmly
and pulling it sharply down length of
fabric.

• Now mark desired measurements of

the muslin, clip edge, and tear both
the lengthgrain and crossgrain
directions.

• It is helpful to first draw a small

lengthgrain for reference so that you
donot lose track of the direction.
Step 2
 Create a grid by drawing
vertical and horizontal
lines on graph paper. You
do not need to draw the
exact size of the piece; a
right angle will suffice to
align the fabric and check
that it is square.

 Where the muslin does

not form a 90° angle,
grasp it firmly with both
hands, and pull and
stretch it until it returns
to its original shape.
 Step 3

 When pressing, move the iron in vertical

and horizontal directions only. If the
 After pressing, check the muslin again on
muslin is pressed on the diagonal, or
the grid paper to see if it has torqued; if so,
bias, grain, you will pull the threads out
pull and stretch it again until it goes back
of alignment and cause the fabric to
into right angles at the corners.
stretch.
Marking grainlines
– Mark using a
pencil/tailor’s
chalk
– Mark using “
Thread tracing”
 Step 4

 Make two or three small marks on the

muslin using the given dimensions,
measuring in from the left-hand edge.
 Line up the graph ruler or yardstick
with the marks, and draw the line
needed.
 Use this method for the first two
pieces.
Step 5
 Find the true bias using a right-angled ruler
and a graph ruler. Position the right angled
ruler against one of the edges of the fabric and
mark equal distances from the angle point. For
example, mark 8“ (20 cm) from the point,
going along the cross grain and along the
length grain.
 Line the graph ruler up with the two points
and draw in the bias line, a 45° angle. For bias
lines, two parallel lines are used, 1⁄8" (0.5 cm)
apart.
Thread Tracing
– First locate the grainline. Measure in from
the sides of the muslin piece and mark it
with a pin line or tailor tacks. Place the pins
perpendicular to the sew line, and use the
entry point of the pin as your line
demarcation.
– Lay the graph ruler or yardstick an even .–1"
(1.5–2.5 cm) from the pin or tailor-tack line.
– Leaving the muslin on the table, pull the
needle and thread through the fabric, using
very large stitches.
– It can help to place weights on the ruler or
yardstick to keep the fabric from moving
while you stitch it.
Marking grainlines
with pen Pinning

–Use of – Not placed at 90°

angle to the form
disappearing
– Angle lifting
ink
upward