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Dry Aging of Beef - Book
Dry Aging of Beef - Book
Executive Summary
Prepared for the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association’s
Center for Research & Knowledge Management
®
Jeff W. Savell, Ph.D.
Regents Professor and
E.M. “Manny” Rosenthal Chairholder,
Texas A&M University
Introduction
D
ry aging beef to enhance its flavor shrinkage and trim loss made economic
and tenderness is used by a very sense to both the packer/processor and
small number of meat purveyors retail/foodservice sectors.
for upscale hotels and restaurants and by
an even smaller number of retailers for the Two very important scientific articles
gourmet market. Dry aging is a process published in the 1970s – Minks and
whereby beef carcasses, primals, and/or Stringer (1972) and Hodges et al. (1974)
subprimals are stored – without protective – demonstrated the advantages of vacuum
packaging – at refrigeration temperatures packaging from a shrinkage and shelf-life
for one to five weeks to allow the natural standpoint without sacrificing palatability
enzymatic and biochemical processes that traits found in unpackaged beef. The
result in improved tenderness and the growth of boxed beef, for the most part,
development of the unique flavor that can transformed how steaks and roasts were
only be described as “dry-aged beef.” prepared for the foodservice and retail
channels, making the dry aging process a
Dry aging beef may be more art than minor contributor to the processes used in
science. Popular articles, sales brochures, purveying and retailing beef.
and Web sites devoted to promoting or
merchandising dry-aged beef use terms Compared to the volume of research
such as “buttery and rich,” “superb in studies on a wide variety of topics related to
taste and texture,” “superior in taste beef, dry aging has not been the subject for
and tenderness,” “mellow and intense,” much scientific literature. Studies devoted
and “earthy and nutty” to describe the to the direct comparison of dry aging to wet
advantages for dry-aged compared to wet- aging may be limited in number but are not
aged beef. In fact, differentiating between limited in the quality of the work reported.
dry-aged and wet-aged beef has been This review will focus on the advantages and
a relatively recent event. Up until the disadvantages of the dry aging process with
development of vacuum packaging and special emphasis on quality, palatability,
boxed beef in the 1960s, if beef were to be and economic parameters important to those
aged, the only option would have been to who market and purchase this product. And
dry age it. As vacuum packaging became not all dry aging is focused on improving the
an alternate way to ship beef, first in the flavor and tenderness of beef. The University
U.S. and then internationally, its dominance of Wisconsin Center for Meat Process
as the primary way beef was transported, Validation concluded that dry aging is an
stored, and aged took off in the 1970s. By intervention treatment to reduce pathogens
the 1980s, well over 90% of beef marketed on beef carcasses (Algino et al., 2007), giving
was in this form. Compared to the historic this age-old process new life in the food
way beef was handled, the advantages of safety arena.
vacuum packaging were such that avoiding
Dry-Aging Parameters
Procedures days of aging, (2) storage temperature, (3)
In developing dry aging beef guidelines, relative humidity, and (4) air flow. These are
the primary factors to consider are: (1) important as they relate to development of
Palatability Attributes
Flavor flavor intensities important to the dry aging
The greatest reason for dry aging beef is consumer:
to further enhance its flavor and to impart overall aged-beef flavor intensity – defined
the flavor notes that are generally associated as a full, blended and sustained, cooked
with this product. Flavor is a difficult beef flavor that has few dominating
attribute to study because it requires very individual flavor notes and creates a
specifically trained panelists to evaluate the smooth, balanced impression
complexity of the positive and negative notes brown/roasted flavor intensity – defined
that may occur in meat in general and dry- as a round, full, dark, caramelized
aged beef in particular. aromatic generally associated with beef
that has been cooked with dry heat.
Campbell et al. (2001) conducted one
of the most extensive studies to date on The authors found that with at least 14
the effect of dry aging on beef flavor. They days of dry aging, aged flavor and brown-
evaluated Certified Angus Beef® brand roasted flavor increased significantly
striploins and shortloins that were first compared to those cuts dry aged for fewer
vacuum packaged to simulate initial days or that were not dry aged at all. They
packaging and shipping conditions (7 or also found that aged flavor peaked at 9
14 days), followed by various times of dry days of vacuum storage after the dry aging
aging (0, 7, 14 or 21 days) before vacuum period and actually declined when stored
packaging, storage (0, 2, 9 or 16 days) and at 16 days, indicating that some benefits of
steak cutting. A number of sensory traits dry aging were reversed slightly with this
were evaluated including two very specific additional vacuum storage period.
Figure 2: Retail yields as affected by aging treatment x aging period for short loins
100
Wet-Aged
90 Dry-Aged
87.7a 86.6ab 87.1ab
85.3b
80
76.5c
70 72.1d 71.6de 69.8e
Retail Yields, %
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
14 days 21 days 28 days 35 days
Means with different letters (a-e) differ (P<0.05). Adapted from Smith (2007).
64.3d 63.5d
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
14 days 21 days 28 days 35 days
Means with different letters (a-d) differ (P<0.05). Adapted from Laster (2007).
Figure 4: Retail yields as affected by aging treatment x aging period for sirloin butts
100
Wet-Aged
90 Dry-Aged
80 81.9a 82.2a
78.6b
75.9c
70
Retail Yields, %
60 61.4d
56.6e
50 51.6f 52.0f
40
30
20
10
0
14 days 21 days 28 days 35 days
Means with different letters (a-f) differ (P<0.05). Adapted from Laster (2007).
Figure 5: Margin percent as affected by aging treatment x aging period for short loins
40
Wet-Aged
37.7a
36.7ab 36.3ab
35 35.2b Dry-Aged
30 29.9c
25 25.7d 25.2de
Margin %
23.0e
20
15
10
0
14 days 21 days 28 days 35 days
Means with different letters (a-e) differ (P<0.05). Adapted from Smith (2007).
Acknowledgement
Photos courtesy of Davey B. Griffin, Ph.D.,
Associate Professor and Extension Meat Specialist, Department of Animal Science,
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-2471