Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Engineering of
High-Performance
Textiles
Edited by
Menghe Miao
John H. Xin
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List of contributors xi
Preface xiii
3 Fiber blending 59
M. Miao
3.1 Purposes of fiber blending or mixing 59
3.2 Methods of blending 60
3.3 Blending effects 64
3.4 Examples of blended textiles 68
References 77
vi Contents
4 Fiber-to-yarn predictions 81
S. Yang, S. Gordon
4.1 Introduction 81
4.2 Fiber quality indices 82
4.3 Theoretical models 84
4.4 Models used in industry 88
4.5 Databases 89
4.6 Validation of Cottonspec results 100
4.7 Conclusion 103
References 104
Index 513
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List of contributors
X.W. Wang The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong
J.H. Xin The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Kowloon, Hong Kong
K.L. Yick The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Hong Kong
Producers and consumers today are not satisfied with textiles that offer a standard per-
formance. This book is aimed at assisting textile engineers and product designers to
improve the performance standard of their existing products and to develop new high-
performance products.
The design of high-performance textiles starts with selecting the most suitable
fibers. Until a few decades ago, virtually all textiles had been made from natural fibers
obtained from plants and animals. The advent of man-made fibers has enriched the
materials source for textile engineers. Synthetic fibers entered the world of apparel
and industrial textiles by imitating and blending them with natural fibers, such as wool
and cotton. Many synthetic fibers are now highly specialized and offer extremely
high-performance properties in challenging applications far beyond traditional
apparel and industrial textiles.
Textile engineering research and development in the last half-century have chan-
ged the landscape of the textile industry. While ring spinning is still the dominant yarn
manufacturing technology, unconventional spinning methods, such as rotor spinning
and air-jet spinning, are now widely used. Shuttle looms are replaced by shuttleless
looms. The use of electronic knitting machines is widespread. The nonwoven industry
has experienced a rapid expansion in industrial textiles and apparels due to the new
processing technologies such as spunlace and due to the fast growth of synthetic
fibers.
The fashion and textile industry has also experienced rapid developments in the
past few decades. Synthetic dyes now produce a much wider color gamut for both nat-
ural and synthetic fibers. Functional treatments to fibers, fabrics, and even garments
today provide properties such as wrinkle recovery, water repellency, and flame ret-
ardancy. With decades of development in coloration and finishing, producers and con-
sumers started thinking of the impact of new technologies on the environment. The
concept of sustainability of the ecosystem, “greener” technology, biodegradability,
and the use of natural products has become a trend. More and more products on
the market now offer specialized high-performance properties, such as directional
moisture transfer, insect repellency, and camouflaging.
In this book, the first three chapters discuss textile fibers, their properties, and suit-
ability for different textile end-uses. Chapter 1 is aimed at providing a framework for
fiber selection according to their technical attributes, influences on product character-
istics, and requirements for textile processes. Chapter 2 reviews fibers developed in
the last few decades to fulfill the requirement for general uses and for specialized high-
performance textiles. Chapter 3 deals with the science and art of fiber blending to meet
requirements that a single type of fiber cannot fulfill satisfactorily.
xiv Preface
Chapters 4–6 deal with the conversation of fibers into fit-to-purpose yarns and fab-
rics. Chapter 4 discusses fiber-to-yarn property prediction tools based on the physical
and theoretical models. Chapter 5 provides some broad guidelines for fabric develop-
ment by comparing the characteristics of fabrics produced by different categories of
fabric-forming methods, namely weaving, knitting, and nonwoven. Chapter 6
attempts to lay down the basic principles of mechanics for understanding the fabric
structure-property relationship, particularly in woven fabrics.
Chapters 7–11 review the main performance deficiencies of common consumer
textiles and technologies available to textile engineers and designers for product
improvement and design.
Most garments now are disposed before they are worn out. Color fading becomes
an important reason for disposing garments. Chapter 7 discusses the interaction
between fiber and dye, the various challenges that influence the colorfastness of dyed
fabrics in practice, the fastness properties of fiber-dye systems, colorfastness testing,
and finishing treatments to improve colorfastness. Today’s busy consumers expect
that garments remain wrinklefree after domestic laundering and tumble drying.
Chapter 8 reviews the chemistry and technological progresses of easy-care treatments.
Pilling is a traditional performance problem and the problem deteriorates with the
popularity of soft handle knitwear. Chapter 9 reviews the mechanics of pilling, influ-
ences of fabric construction on pilling, treatments, and management of knitwear
pilling.
A practical imperative of clothing is to keep the body warm in cold weather. If not
appropriately designed, winter clothing can become heavy and bulky. Chapter 10
begins with a discussion on the mechanisms of heat transfer through fabrics, the rela-
tionship between heat transfer and air gap trapped within the clothing microclimate. It
moves on to discuss the design of warm fabrics without the unnecessary weight and
bulk. Sports clothing is now not only worn by athletes in competition but also by
almost everyone taking part in exercises and many other activities. Coming with this
trend is the requirement for fabrics to transport sweat and heat efficiently. Chapter 11
deals with the mechanisms of water vapor and liquid transfer through textiles, the attri-
butes of textile materials that affect the moisture transfer process, and the methods
available to design high-performance moisture management textiles.
The use of textile materials is now far beyond apparel and has become highly spe-
cialized. Chapters 12–18 discuss a number of highly specialized textiles that have
experienced rapid development and growth in recent years.
Chapter 12 reviews compression and stretch-to-fit garments used in sportswear to
improve athletic performance, in the medical treatments of hypertrophic scars and
venous diseases, for body shaping, and as intimate apparel. Chapter 13 discusses
conductive textiles made either from conductive fibers or by depositing conductive
materials on to nonconductive textiles. The end-uses for conductive textiles are
diverse, from antistatic and electromagnetic shielding to electronic textiles
(eTextiles). Chapter 14 deals with insect-repellent fabrics that are made into nets,
uniforms, garments, and other textiles for protecting humans from the bite of insects
or arthropods in tropical and subtropical regions, rain forests, and other environments
of insect inhabitation.
Preface xv
Menghe Menghe
Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization
John H. Xin
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
May 2017
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Part One
Product design
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BILIBID.
As we are going to press, there comes to hand a little pamphlet
describing the industries and production of Bilibid.
Why not send our wardens who desire to do things to Bilibid?
Perhaps, it would be better to send our legislators, who after
observing the practical achievements of Bilibid may be induced to
authorize our wardens to inaugurate a sound industrial policy.
Where is Bilibid? Take the train for San Francisco, engage passage
on some leviathan of the deep and get off probably at the second
station which is Manila. Thence it is a short excursion to Bilibid, a trip
taken by twenty thousand visitors in a single year, not to mention
those who take involuntary trips thither.
Forty buildings, seventeen acres of ground, plan of main building like
Eastern Penitentiary, one of the best ever constructed if we consider
continual inspection as an essential factor. 2800 prisoners there; as
many others in prisons elsewhere in the islands but all co-ordinated
under a central administration.
The great aim is to prepare the inmates for “honorable position in the
community upon their release.”
The men work and play. We enumerate some of the industries.
PENNSYLVANIA.
William E. Mikell, Member of State Commission to Revise
the Criminal Code.
The work of the commissioners who framed the Code of 1860 shows
an utter lack of any consistent theory not only of grading the crimes
as felonies and misdemeanors, but also in grading the punishment
fixed for the various crimes. It may not be easy to do this in all cases.
Persons may intelligently differ as to whether perjury should be more
seriously punished than assault and battery, and whether larceny or
bigamy be deserving of the greater penalty. But it is difficult to see
why embezzlement by a consignee or factor should be punished with
five years’ imprisonment and embezzlement by a person
transporting the goods to the factor should be punished by one
year’s imprisonment. * * *
Under the Act of 1860, having in possession tools for the
counterfeiting of copper coin is punished by six years’ imprisonment,
while by the next section the punishment for actually making
counterfeit copper coin is only three years, though it cannot be made
without the tools to make it. * * *
The distinction just mentioned is, however, no stranger than that
made by the code between a councilman on the one hand and a
judge on the other, in the provisions against bribery. Section 48 of
the Act of 1860 provides that if any judge * * * shall accept a bribe,
he shall be fined not more than $1000 and be imprisoned for not
more than five years. But by Section 8 of the Act of 1874, a
councilman who accepts a bribe may be fined $10,000, ten times as
much as a judge, and be imprisoned the same number of years—
five years. The statute also provides that the councilman shall be
incapable of holding any place of profit or trust in this
Commonwealth thereafter. But the convicted judge is placed under
no such disability.
In the case of almost every crime denounced by the code fine and
imprisonment are associated. In most cases the penalty provided is
fine and imprisonment, in some it is fine or imprisonment. In a few
cases imprisonment alone without a fine is prescribed, and in a few
others it is a fine alone without imprisonment. We seek in vain for
any principle on which the fine is omitted, where it is omitted; or for a
principle on which it is inflicted in addition to imprisonment in some
cases, and as an alternative to imprisonment in others. Thus the
penalty for exhibiting indecent pictures on a wall in a public place is a
fine of $300, but no imprisonment, while by the same act the drawing
of such pictures on the same wall carries a fine of $500 and one
year’s imprisonment. Manslaughter carries a fine of $1000 as well as
imprisonment for twelve years, but train robbery and murder in the
second degree involve no fine, but fifteen and twenty years in prison
respectively. It cannot be the length of the imprisonment that does
away with the fine in this latter case, for the crime of aiding in
kidnapping may be punished with twenty-five years in prison, but
also has a fine of $5000.
More striking still, perhaps, is the lack of any relation between the
amount of the fine and the length of the imprisonment provided in the
code. In the case of some crimes the fine is small and the
imprisonment short, as in blasphemy, which is punished by a fine of
$100 and three months in prison, extortion and embracery punished
with $500 and one year. In a few the fine is large and the
imprisonment long, as in accepting bribes by councilmen, $10,000
and five years, and malicious injury to railroads, $10,000 and ten
years. But in others the fine is small while the imprisonment is long
and in others the fine large and the imprisonment short.
Incomplete Crimes.
CLINICAL WORK.