DISCLAIMER

The information in this guide is subject to change without notice. Rock

climbing (in any format) is an activity with a very real risk of SEVERE
INJURY or DEATH and there have been climbing fatalities in Hong
Kong.
Users of this guide should be aware of the risks involved, and be
responsible for their own actions. As with any high-risk activity,
participants should seek qualified instruction commensurate with the
nature of the climbing they wish to undertake.
The publisher and author of this guide do not accept any liability
whatsoever for injury or damage caused to (or by) climbers, third
parties or property arising from its use. Neither the publisher nor
anyone involved in the publication of this guide can be held
responsible for mistakes or omissions arising from the use of this
guide.
You climb at your own risk and are therefore the sole judge of
conditions.
If in doubt, do not climb.

ACKNOLEDGEMENT
Thanks to Jo Tang for the many days of hiking up and belaying to get
the FAs done in time.
Thanks to Francis Haden for permission to use his disclaimer message.
Cover photo by Jo Tang.
 Donation
The development cost of the crag is over
HK$16000. If you enjoy the crag, please
consider donating to help cover some of the
cost for the community, it would be greatly
appreciated.

Contact
Email: lionelpolanski7@gmail.com
Instagram: chong.siu

Have fun and be safe!

General
As one of the most impressive pieces of rock on Kowloon Peak, it’s
surprising to see so little development on it since a few trad routes
were put up over half a century ago. During the spring of 2023, 19
sport and 3 trad routes have been developed. From improbable-
looking slabs to intricate side-pulls to big dynos, this crag will keep
most entertained for more than a few visits.

Condition
• The wall faces South-West, so
it’ll be in the sun from around
noon onward. Base of the wall
stays mostly shaded by trees.
• Route 1,2,3,15,16,17 can seep
and dries slowly after rain.
Others dry quick in general

Hardware
• All sport routes equipped with
316 SS glue-ins and 316 SS
Rings or Rams Horn for lower
off.
• Trad route anchors are bolted

Hazards
• Few of the routes are quite
long, knot the end of you rope
to be safe.
• Mosquitos can be quite
aggressive especially on the
approach Close view of
Gradient Ascent.
Miraculously
climbable through
micro features
Approach
From the west entrance of Good Hope Primary School, walk up Jat’s
Incline for about 270m to enter a wide obvious path (1) on the right.
Go up the roughly pathed steps to a terraced area with a few boulders
scattered across. Continue generally uphill to reach a truck-sized
boulder (2) that’s covered partly with thick tree roots.
Go right of the boulder and follow the path along a dry streambed for
about 10-15 minutes, scrambling up a few sets of boulders along the
way. A diversion off the dry streambed to the right up a steep dirt
slope (3) will appear. Go up this dirt slope with the aid of a series of
hand lines to reach the top of the mountain ridge (4) and the view
opens up.
Follow the obvious footpath on the ridge towards the crag for about 5
minutes to reach a rock face (5) just below the crag. Turn right and
continue for another 15m to another series of handlines (6) on your
left. Pull up the handlines to reach the base of the crag (7).
The crag can also be reached following the Majestic Slab approach and
going a bit further, but it takes significantly longer time.
(3) (5) (7) Driblet
Outcrop
(6)
(4)

Majestic
(2) Slab

Approach time from (1): 20 – 35 mins

(1)
Google Map Link:
https://goo.gl/maps/mqTjSJ2N678jmEgS6
 Routes

Note: Old trad routes not shown because I can’t figure out from old guidebooks about how
those routes actually goes precisely…

1 Child’s Hill – F6B ☺☺ T1 Trinitite – VS 4C ☺

26m – 13 Bolts 10m – Trad
Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023 Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023

4 Trinity – F6A ☺☺
2 Insecure Canyon – F6B+ ☺☺
10m – 5 Bolts
27m – 16 Bolts
Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023
Jo Tang, Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023
Good warmup route

3 Grown-Up Mountain – F6C+ ☺☺ 5 Teller-Ulam – F6C ☺☺

28m – 18 Bolts 12m – 6 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 5-Mar-2023 Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023
 Routes
6 Ivy Mike – F7B+ ☺☺☺
14m – 8 Bolts
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023
Side pull + bad feet = good climbing
7 MAD! – F7C ☺☺☺
14m – 8 Bolts
Rick Siu, 17-Apr-2023
Clip the 4th bolt of Ivy Mike extended
then break right to climb the strenuous
diagonal crack line
T2 Arkhipov – HVS 5A ☺☺
21m – Trad
Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023
Start from the ledges just right of the
crack.
8 Meh – F6B
16m – 8 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 22-Mar-2023
A meh but crucial route to access the
gems above
9 Sunlit Silence – F7A+ ☺☺☺
26m – 15 Bolts
Rick Siu, 13-Apr-2023
Use the first 3 bolts above the ledge
anchor as aid(stepping included) to get
above the vertical section and begin
climbing on the slab
10 Gradient Ascent – F7A ☺☺☺
21m – 11 Bolts
Rick Siu, 22-Mar-2023
Star of the Crag. Blank AF looking wall
is surprisingly climbable
11 Gradient Ascent(low start) – >F7A
25m – 13 Bolts
Open Project
Adds a much harder section of slab
below the original. Start from standing
on the good foot hold around 2m
below and slightly left of Radiation
Sickness’s anchor
12 Radiation Sickness – >F7C
12m – 9 Bolts
Open Project
Bouldery, shouldery, and powerful. Go
solve it!
13 Demon Core – F6A+ ☺
8m – 5 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 22-Mar-2023
T3 Tickling the Tail – E4-ish
16m – Mixed
Open Project
Climb Demon Core and continue to
immediately face the crux. Difficulty is
about HVS/E1 without the
disproportionately hard crux, so worth
aiding through the crux to climb the
beautiful crack above.
 Routes
14 Surly Bonds – F6B ☺
12m – 7 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 18-Mar-2023
Access route for route 15-19

15 I Am, I Wonder – F7B ☺☺

19m – 13 Bolts
Rick Siu, 12-Apr-2023
Stay centered or left of the bolt line for
the lower slab for purer slab climbing
and the full grade, but climb however
you like, it’s all meaningless anyways.

16 Paperclip Maximiser – F7A+ ☺

19m – 12 Bolts
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023

17 Mortal Meatbag – F7A ☺☺☺

18m – 12 Bolts
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023

18 Brace! Brace! – F7A+ ☺

16m – 11 Bolts
Rick Siu, 12-Apr-2023

Chalking up 19 Burning Blue – F6C ☺☺

to tackle the 16m – 10 Bolts
final bits of
Ivy Mike Rick Siu, 12-Apr-2023