Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Deconstructing Food-as-Ethnicity and The Ideology of Homeland in Diana Abu Jaber's The Language of Baklava
Deconstructing Food-as-Ethnicity and The Ideology of Homeland in Diana Abu Jaber's The Language of Baklava
JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide
range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and
facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact support@jstor.org.
Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at
https://about.jstor.org/terms
Brill is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Journal of Arabic
Literature
Carol Bardenstein
University of Michigan
Abstract
In this article I examine and analyze the complex configuration of diasporic/homeland relations
as represented in Arab American author Diana Abu Jaber's most recent "cookbook-memoir"
The Language of Baklava. Abu Jaber's work resists prevalent conventions of most nostalgic/
ethnic cookbook memoirs, by both diasporic authors from the Arab world who have taken up
residence in the U.S., and by some Arab American authors as well. The Language of Baklava
neither portrays a simplistic or reductive binary between homeland and hostland, constructing
the "old country" as a locus of unambiguous authenticity and familiarity, nor the hostland as
a watered-down, assimilated, or inauthentic version of "the real thing" back home, with nostal
gia and alienation as the prevalent respective tropes. Instead, Abu Jaber's work presents a
far more complex and ambivalent configuration of both the hyphenated existence of Arab
Americans in the contemporary U.S., and of "back home" and, very central to her work, a
nuanced portrayal of interactions between the two spheres and their inhabitants as complex
and inter-penetrating.1
Keywords
Diana Abu Jaber; cookbooks; memoirs; diaspora; homeland; hostland; identity; Arab Americans;
authenticity
Arab American author Diana Abu Jaber's latest work, The Language of Bak
lava, a cookbook-memoir, or a memoir with recipes, might raise expectations
on the part of the reader for a nostalgic work about ethnicity and ethnic
1 I am grateful to Roger for warmly welcoming me into the 'fold' of modern Arabic litera
ture when I was a young scholar-in-the-making, both as a graduate student and as I continued
to make my way in the field. Although I was never his student, Roger was as generous with me
as he was with so many others: taking an interest in our work, welcoming us, and making us
feel like we belonged and that we had a place in the field. I appreciate this, in addition, of
course, to his own pioneering and prodigious scholarly contributions to the field. Roger has
done so much to put modern Arabic literature on the scholarly map, in the West and elsewhere,
that his name and his work are synonymous with it.
food, both on account of its title, and because of conventions associated with
genres of the "cookbook-memoir."2 In spite of all their variety, cookbook
memoirs have tended to conjure up prior originary and ostensibly "authen
tic" worlds in a largely nostalgic register. These worlds are ones to which the
narrator has lost access, such as the world of ones childhood from the posi
tion of adulthood, a former homeland from which one has been forcibly dis
placed or exiled, or a country or homeland from which one has willingly
emigrated. This past world is conjured up through the recollection of food
from "back then" or "back there," and the memoirist or food writer brings
that past and other world to life in the present through recipes that may be
prepared and consumed, culinarily or textually. In these nostalgic cookbook
memoirs, partaking of food in the present is often portrayed as a "restorative"
or "reconstituting" process, as a gesture that aims to restore the (past) whole
through partaking of a (present) fragment?an integrated and "happy" if
compromised ending, that seems to heal and remove the previous tensions of
displacement, or being "of two worlds." And Abu Jaber s title, The Language
of Baklava, at first glance, would seem to be applying a version of reductive
identity politics to food?the implicit notion that baklava embodies or speaks
in a univocal language of authenticity, evoking a univocal nationality or eth
nicity, in this case, an Arab, or Arab American one.
However, as we shall see, Diana Abu Jaber delivers nothing of the sort to
her readers in The Language of Baklava. This highly complex and richly-textured
memoir with recipes, maintains a critical distance from simplistic nostalgia,
and instead, creates a sustained portrayal of a poignant, dialectical and constantly
evolving relationship between its protagonists on the one hand, and the places
and cultures they inhabit in Jordan and the United States, on the other. That
is to say, The Language of Baklava never collapses the fluidity and complexity
of these relationships into fixed, essentialized poles or binaries that are so
common in the cookbook-memoir genre, such as homeland and hostland,
before and after, loss and recuperation. Her memoir with recipes also eschews
elevating, exoticizing and privileging the "old homeland" as the locus of orig
inary authenticity, or as the site of unambiguous belonging?whether for her
immigrant father (who continues to zig-zag back and forth between Jordan
and the U.S.), or for Diana herself and the rest of her family. Abu Jabers
work offers neither facile recuperative solutions nor "happy hybrid" endings
to the evolving condition of multi-generational transnational experience.
2 Diana Abu Jaber, The Language of Baklava: A Memoir (New York: Pantheon Books, 2005),
hereafter cited by page number.
In creating such a fluid and complex portrayal of Arab, American and Arab
American identificatory configurations, Abu Jaber's Language of Baklava is
not unique, whether within the rest of her own oeuvre of novels, or within
the body of Arab American writing (and other forms of artistic and cultural
expression, in the visual arts, in performance art, etc.) that has been unfold
ing since the 1990s, a great deal of which has tended to portray similarly
complex articulations of transnational identities and affiliations in unsettled
flux. Abu Jaber's novels that preceded Language of Baklava?Arabian Jazz and
Crescent?have presented unconventional or markedly complex portrayals of
Arab and Arab American identities and their inter-relationships. Much of the
sophisticated emergent Arab American writing and cultural expression start
ing in the 1990s has been both markedly experimental and cutting edge in
form?in new kinds of performance and spoken word art, (e.g., the work of
Suheir Hammad, Leila Buck) or within genres, (e.g., Rabih Alammedine's I,
The Divine: A Novel in First Chapters), and has also been characterized by
being very pointedly and explicitly politically engaged, in the wake of the two
Gulf Wars, and the events of 9/11 (as well as the Lebanese wars, and ongoing
events in Palestine).
I have singled out Diana Abu Jaber's Language of Baklava for consideration
here as an illustration of a complex portrayal of Arab American identity on
several counts. For one, it has not garnered the critical and scholarly atten
tion that her preceding two works have, attention which has focused on her
unconventional or non-reductive representation of Arab American identity.3
I think part of the reason Baklava has been largely overlooked, or mentioned
critically only in passing, is precisely because Abu Jaber has chosen to write in
a genre, the cookbook memoir, which is associated with nostalgia and with
more simplistic, essentialized conceptions of identity, i.e., a genre that is
viewed as conservative in its representation of ethnicity in the U.S. context,
not "cutting edge" or experimental, and one that is not explicitly politically
engaged, in contrast with other segments of Arab American writing of the
past two decades. Part of what I thus aim to show in this article is that
Abu Jaber upends the generic expectations of the family recipe and the cook
book memoir in unexpected ways, and deliberately evokes its nostalgic sensi
bility for ironic and at times comic purposes, to poignant effect, creating an
ironic narrative viewpoint that is not common in cookbook memoirs, in her
novels, or in much of Arab American literature. It also, working in part against
the grain of the cookbook memoir genre, articulates the point of view of a trans
national subject that evokes but stands apart from different identifications
and affiliations, from multiple homes and homelands, partly at home in all,
fully at home in none, and revisiting the usual sites of nostalgic recollection
with irony, humor and a critical sensibility.
A number of factors no doubt contribute to Abu Jaber s Language ofBak
lava standing apart from the conventional ethnic cookbook memoir in the
ways described above. One is that her own subject position is a complex
one?being of "mixed" Jordanian and American parentage, and of multiple
locations and moving between them, in that she and her family together and
separately have spent substantial time in both Jordan and the U.S.?could
tend to foster such de-essentializing tendencies. The fact that her memoir is
focalized very markedly through multiple and multi-generational points of
view?most pointedly hers and her fathers?further disrupts tendencies to
create a univocal nostalgic standpoint. Furthermore, she is writing this in a
period (2005) which finds both Arab American migratory patterns and con
comitant expressions of affiliation and belonging to be far more complex, in
a context of literary and cultural blossoming and sophistication that allows
for such complexity and ambiguity.
This last factor also suggests the evolving framework that would warrant
including the present study of an Arab American author in a volume honor
ing Roger Aliens contributions to the field of modern Arabic literature. In the
past, these would have seemed to be two very distinct spheres of literary pro
duction and scholarly inquiry. The past couple of decades, however, have wit
nessed a surge in the publication of literary works of fiction and non-fiction
by "Arab American" writers, an increasingly transnational sphere which has
come to include writing by an increasingly diverse collection of people. In
contrast to the more circumscribed sphere signaled by earlier use of the term
"Arab American" writers (largely immigrants or descendants of immigrants
from the late nineteenth-century wave of immigration from Bil?d al-Sh?m,
who settled and remained in the U.S. and wrote in English), in more recent
years, the Arab American sphere has become a far more complex configura
tion. It has come to include works by people who have come to the U.S.
from the Arab world as exiles, quasi-immigrants and immigrants, some of
whom have settled in the U.S. but many of whom have ongoing contact
with, and spend time back in their countries of origin or elsewhere in the
Middle East, or move back and forth between established bases in both loca
tions, producing works in both Arabic and English. It spans those who came
to the U.S. in early childhood, with a mixed linguistic configuration of Eng
lish and Arabic, to those who came in adulthood, with Arabic as their native
spoken and written language. It also includes the writings of those born in
the U.S., second-generation and beyond, some of whom have ongoing ties
and experience with the places of their familial origins, some of whom do
not, who write primarily in English.
Organizations such as RAWI, the Radius of Arab American Writers, Inc.,
have come to embody this more complex transnational configuration, in its
membership and constituency, and in its conferences and publications. Its
most recent conference (2007) was organized around the theme "Writing
While Arab: Politics, Hyphens and Homelands," a topic which brought the
full transnational range of writers and writing sketched above together under
one conceptual and analytical rubric. This is just one of many indicators that
a body of writing that is less easily or distinctly categorized as "Arabic,"
"Arab," "American," or "Arab American" has begun to be recognized and to
garner scholarly attention.4
In such an emerging context, it seems artificial to sustain overly rigid
boundaries between "Arabic literature" and "Arab American literature" when
what is actually being produced in these areas seems to be much more fluid
and the spheres more interpenetrating than those distinctions would indicate.
It is in the spirit of these shifting boundaries that are energizing the field, that
I venture to include a work of "Arab American" literature by Diana Abu Jaber
in this Festschrift honoring a scholar of modern Arabic literature.
4 A selection of presentations from the conference were published as essays in a forum enti
tled "Writing While Arab" in the prestigious mainstream PMLA {Proceedings of the Modern
Language Association of America) journal in 2008. Of note too is the appearance of such works
as Nouri Gana's forthcoming The Rise of the Arab Novel in English.
Other fields of Arab American cultural and artistic production embody a similarly layered
transnational configuration of practitioners, in the plastic and visual arts, in film-making, in
theater/performance, and the range of recently formed organizations, institutions and confer
ence forums. The Arab American National Museum in Dearborn, Michigan, which opened in
2005, has itself become an institutional locus for this kind of transnational Arab American
ness, to some extent in its permanent exhibitions, but particularly in its visiting exhibitions of
painters, installation and multi-media artists, many of whose works are informed and consti
tuted by engagement with both the Middle East and the U.S. (such as the work of Doris Bittar,
Helen Zughaib, Sama al-Shaibi, and others), as well as in conferences it has instituted and
hosted, such as Diwan: Forum for the Arts (annual conference bringing together Arab and Arab
American artists, scholars, writers, performers, film-makers).
The 2006 Mapping Arab Diasporas conference at the Center for Arab American Studies at
University of Michigan-Dearborn, organized by its Director, Rabab Abdulhadi, was also a
forum which explicitly examined social and cultural bridges and interconnections between Arab
communities in the Middle East and at various diasporic outposts, including those in the
United States. Nibras, the Arab American Theater Collective, is another such Arab/Arab American
transnational forum. For a selection of works on the Arab American experience, see the Appendix.
This meal became a ritual. Considered in Egypt to be a poor mans dish, in Paris
the little brown beans became invested with all the glories and warmth of Cairo,
our hometown, and the embodiment of all that for which we were homesick.7
At first glance this seems to be a simple instance of longing for a lost world
from exile, but the picture is in fact more complicated. Like many members
of certain cosmopolitan elites, while she was in Egypt Roden did not belong
in straightforward ways to the poor mans Egypt sincerely and nostalgically
evoked in exile. Andre Aciman has portrayed just how vehemently some of
these milieus ^affiliated with anything deemed Egyptian, Arab, or Middle
Eastern in language, food, and other cultural practices, and came to identify
One effect of this is that this memoir with recipes does not simply portray
the perspective of a first-generation immigrant like her father, and his multi
ple relationships to Jordan and the U.S., nor does it settle on the single point
of view of the American-born, second-generation Diana, with very different
experiences of and sets of relationships to both places and cultures. It sustains
a more complex configuration articulated from multiple and changing points
of view.10
Furthermore, Jordan does not remain a fixed "still life" contemplated or
longed for from afar, in a uni-directional relationship, in part because both
Diana and her father go to live in or visit Jordan for extended periods of
time, sometimes together, sometimes separately. Each time Diana goes to Jor
dan, and then re-enters life in the U.S., her relationship to, and experience
of, both Jordan and the U.S. change, and are renegotiated, as is also the case
for her father. Related to this, the "America" that Diana and her family
inhabit, is portrayed as variably inflected with Jordanian-ness, and the Jordan
she/they inhabit, is infused with their "America." In other words, The Lan
guage of Baklava does not construct mutually exclusive binaries, but multiply
interpenetrating spheres. But, as we shall see below, neither does Abu Jaber
glide into a facile "happy hybridity" solution, in which her family's uneasy
mix settles from a process of ricocheting between Arab/American binaries on
the one hand, into some stable, unambivalent "third" entity that can then
proceed to navigate a smooth path, on the other. Overlapping in part with
Bhabha's formulation of a "Third Space," The Language of Baklava does not
"trace two original moments from which [a] third emerges," but rather artic
ulates a different kind of space, "which enables other positions to emerge,"
but positions that do not become fixed or stabilized.11
In The Language of Baklava, the culture and food of her father's "back
home" (in this case Jordan), does not get elevated and exoticized as more
authentic, or more formative for the young and growing Diana, than her
mother's American background, or Diana's own blend. Although Dianas
father (whose full name is Ghassan Abu Jaber, but is referred to throughout
the memoir as "Bud" or sometimes "Gus,") is quoted making many pro
nouncements on "back home" being not only his, but the entire family's
"true" culture and home, it turns out to be more complicated than this not
only for Diana, of course, but for him as well. In The Language of Baklava, in
contrast with cookbook-memoirs more typical of the genre, food and a range
of other cultural markers and enactments are not portrayed as "restorative" or
making a fragmented reality "whole," nor are they put into circulation as
unambiguous markers of cultural authenticity. Attempts to bring one food
world into another are often portrayed as untenable, awkward, or embarrass
ing, as well as tasty and warmly social.
In all of the aforementioned ways Diana Abu Jaber not only presents a very
different kind of cookbook-memoir, that does not deliver at all what prospec
tive readers (or critics)12 might expect, but she also presents a complex and
engenders new possible positions that cannot be mapped within a binary, I still find the termi
nology of "new positions" to embody an implicit sense of fixedness, of new entities with mixed
or hybrid ingredients. In The Language of Baklava, we find a portrayal of an unsettled mix of
ingredients and positions that are themselves in flux. See Homi K. Bhabha, "Of Mimicry and
Man: The Ambivalence of Colonial Discourse," October 28/1 (Spring 1984): 125-33; "Signs
Taken for Wonders: Questions of Ambivalence and Authority under a Tree Outside Delhi, May
1817," in Francis Barker et. al., eds., Europe and Its Others: Proceedings of the Essex Conference on
the Sociology of Literature, July 1984, vol. 1 (Colchester: University of Essex Press, 1985),
89-106; Jonathan Rutherford, "The Third Space: Interview with Homi Bhabha," in Identity:
Community, Culture, Difference (London: Lawrence and Wishart, 1990), pp. 207-21.
12 Since the book's publication, in a number of contexts, in informal discussion at confer
ences and sessions on Arab American studies and in some blogs, in recent years, I have encoun
tered criticism of the idea of representing Arab or Arab American ethnicity through food
(sometimes with specific reference to Abu Jaber s The Language of Baklava, often based on the
tide alone rather than a sustained reading of the work). This criticism assumes that it automatically
essentializes ethnicity in reductive ways, and that it is "traditional" in a regressive way, outmoded,
and does not adequately represent the political realities of Arab American life today, as do other
cutting-edge and explicitly politically engaged modes of representing Arab and Arab American
ethnicity (in hip-hop, spoken word performance, installation pieces, blogs). As I assert here and
elsewhere, it is my view that within the genre there is indeed a preponderance of a conservative,
sometimes reactionary sensibility and impulse that assumes unambiguous contours of an ethnic
collective that converges in unity around its food in eminently "palatable" ways that rock no
Making shish kabob always reminds the brothers of who they used to be... the
heat, the spices, the preparation for cooking, and the rituals for eating were all
boats. While this may be the case for many examples within the cookbook-memoir genre, or
other modes in which food is used as an unproblematized marker of ethnic identity, I have tried
to show that this is not the case in Abu Jaber s The Language of Baklava, in which, I argue, she is
up to something considerably more complex, though not explicitly political.
the same as when they were children, eating at their parents' big table. But trying
to kill the lamb showed them: They were no longer who they thought they
were (19).
becomes the catalyst for the urgent desire, on the part of Dianas mother and
her daughters to make American pancakes, also related within the rubric/
chapter of "native food." This does not result in their making and partaking
of an essentialized food-fragment of their American home, but instead gives
rise to a new and messy combination of ingredients. Shopping at the Jorda
nian open-air market for pancake ingredients, they find only approximate
substitutes. The neighbors crowd into their kitchen to smell and taste what
they start to call "burnt American flat food"; they actually ask for the recipe,
but also contribute their own food to the breakfast: good bread with sesame
seeds, fresh eggs, tomatoes from the garden, mint and tubs of yogurt, salty
white cheese, olives and pistachios. "All in all, its an excellent pancake break
fast," (38), the young Diana recalls, as the family embraces this complex mix
ture of foods as a new kind of American-Jordanian "pancake breakfast."
In yet another way, Abu Jaber s food memoir does not depict Jordanian or
Arabic food as the exclusively valorized medium of authenticity, or even "eth
nicity," to be contrasted with mainstream (read: Velveeta and Wonder bread)
America. For in other parts of The Language of Baklava, Abu Jaber portrays
heartfelt connections across ethnic/immigrant lines in the U.S. through shared
and exchanged food habits. In suburban Syracuse, Bud and the Italian immi
grant neighbor, Mrs. Manarelli, strike up a quick and close friendship by
entering each others kitchens, and by sharing countless cooking tips. And
in a poignant vignette, a moving connection is forged between Bud and
Diana on the one hand, and Dianas Russian-Jewish friend Olga and her con
centration-camp survivor father on the other, when the two fathers discover
that the other's food tradition includes stuffed cabbage. The young Diana had
observed Olga's father as removed, uncommunicative and depressed. His
haunted silence is broken when the two fathers exchange their respective reci
pes for stuffed cabbage by making it for each other. Lest one think Abu Jaber
is setting up originary foods within or across ethnic groupings as comfort
foods with recuperative powers, the vignette moves in a different direction
entirely. Although Olga's father becomes more communicative and makes
social contact through the sharing of the association-laden versions of stuffed
cabbage, soon afterwards his depression and hauntedness catch up with him.
He commits suicide by throwing himself out of the ward where he's been
hospitalized. This is a far cry from cookbook-memoirs in which partaking of
the food of the lost homeland results in a restoration of "the whole" or a har
monious integrated new present. Abu Jaber's memoir-with-recipes offers no
such neat, happy endings.
For Diana, the mix of food and other cultural ingredients in her life, are
woven in nuanced ways into her complex coming-of-age story, and how these
my mouth anymore." (34). This does not stop her from partaking of Arabic,
but the added associated layer of guilt and betrayal, that comes part and par
cel with her "naturalization" to the Jordanian context is unmistakable.
Some time after the family's return from Jordan, a new layer associated
with her coming into awareness of her "Arab differentness" in the U.S. is
added: that of shame. Abu Jaber writes of the family barbecues as they settle
into suburban Syracuse, and gives an accompanying recipe for "Distract the
Neighbors Grilled Chicken" (80-1). But what follows is her description of
how she comes into painful awareness of how her family does not actually fit
in seamlessly or belong through the preparation of this food. Neighbors
appear in front of the house gawking when Diana's family commits the
unwitting transgression of barbecuing in the front yard. Bud reflexively intro
duces himself, and invites them to partake of the food. The neighbors
respond awkwardly that they'd heard "maybe there was some kind of trouble
going on out here," that they were out here "eating or burning things," that
"you know, this is a nice neighborhood and all" (81). They apologize and
scamper off apologetically when Diana's American mother appears. She
writes: "And that's about when I get the feeling that starts somewhere at the
center of my chest, heavy... like fear or sadness or anger, but none of these
exactly." Of course, a schoolmate rival of hers is much less subtle, telling her
on the bus the next day that her own parents and all the neighbors are talk
ing about it, and it's just a "holy disgrace," "in this country, nobody eats in
the front yard," and that her parents would drive Dianas family out of the
neighborhood if they didn't get it. By then, Diana has internalized her fami
ly's otherness as perceived by their "mainstream" American neighbors, saying
to herself "She's right. Shame fills me" (82).
Althusser s much-cited conception of "interpellation," or "being hailed" by
a censorious authority (a police officer in his example, but other authorities?
individual, collective, or institutional, can be substituted), identifies this type
of experience as a salient ingredient in a subject's self-recognition, or in the
constitution/construction of the subject's self-identification by such exter
nally imposed actions.13 The identification and negative judgment of Diana
and her family as different in undesirable ways, by the neighbors as arbiters
of correct, normative behavior, and the way it shapes Dianas experience
and "recognition" of herself in their eyes, illustrate the phenomenon of
interpellation as formulated by Althusser. And Eve Sedgwick writes elo
quently of how shame shapes subjectivity: "Shame floods into being as a
13 See Louis Althusser, "Ideology and Ideological State Apparatuses," in Lenin and Philosophy
and Other Essays, tr. Ben Brewster (London: New Left Books, 1971).
The neighborhood cars pass, some quickly, and some slowly, and we wave at
them all with the wave we've seen at Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade, a feathery
tilt at the wrist, forearm upright. No one can tell us anything. We are five queens
drifting over the suburbs on our own private float. (86)
When Diana hits thirteen, her relationship with her father becomes more
volatile, as she begins the process of teenage differentiation from her parents
and background. In the chapter that gives this memoir its title, "The Lan
guage of Baklava," we find Diana and Bud arguing, and Bud threatening to
send her back to Jordan to learn proper behavior, after a bad report card and
trouble at school. Bud's sister shows up one day, visiting from Jordan, and
Diana is afraid she has come to take her back to Jordan. Aunt Aya, a fiercely
independent woman who never married, the only girl in a family of brothers,
is a not-quite-traditional Bedouin healer who lives on her own in the desert.
After Aya gives Diana one of her tea concoctions to help her calm down and
figure things out, Aya suggests that they bake. The rebellious and differentiat
ing Diana answers, irreverently to her own surprise: "Fine, as long as it isn't
Arabic... I hate Arabic food," expecting this brazen betrayal on her part to
get a rise out of Aya. Instead, Aya?who in a different cookbook-memoir
might be the authentic voice of tradition hailing from the homeland?
14 Eve Kosovsky Sedgwick, Touching Feeling: Affect, Pedagogy, Performativity (Durham: Duke
University Press, 2003), p. 36.
15 Sedgwick, Touching Feeling, p. 37.
surprises Diana with her response: "Im not so impressed. I hate it too! But
how do you feel about baklava?" (185). Once they agree that baklava is not
originally an Arabic dish, but comes from the Greeks or the Turks?they
never quite pin it down?and they agree that they will not use its Arabic
name baql?wah, they can partake of both cooking and eating it. "We can call
it 'baklava' since we both hate Arabic food," Aya says (185).
This, then, is the language of baklava: not a univocalizing ethnic or
national language, but rather explicit resistance to that kind of mono-glossia,
and in its stead, a language that resists its own mythologized origins, and
insists on multi-vocality, on polyphony. Aya and Diana spend the week mak
ing pastries of different ethnic and national origins, culminating in their bak
ing and eating a most exquisite baklava. Before Aya leaves, she uses her
authority with her brother on Diana's behalf, telling Bud that if he ever so
much as mentions the idea of sending Diana back to Jordan, she, Aya, will
never speak with him or set foot in his house again. Bud confesses he would
never send his daughter away?and all of this happens under the "sign" of
the simultaneous Arabness and non-Arabness of baklava.
A later vignette in the memoir portrays Dianas relationship to the food of
her family in a more extreme form, one of visceral rejection. When Diana is
yet further along in the process of differentiation vis-?-vis her family and
background, the first year she goes to college, a new food-related phenome
non sets in. Finding the dorm food inedible, Diana survives mostly on candy
at the shop where she works, and begins to lose weight. On her periodic vis
its home every couple of months, she partakes fully of Bud's home-cooked
Middle Eastern food, only to find, time after time, that in the middle of the
night, she becomes nauseous and vomits it out. This keeps happening over
the course of her first year at college. "I turn inside out, my body physically
rejecting the food. A rejection of something more powerful than food" (227).
Again, as in all of the examples presented above, we could not be
farther from the portrayal of food as essentialized cultural marker of authen
ticity with restorative and "whole-making" powers attributed to it so com
monly in other memoirs constructed around food memories and associations.
And again, it does not remain fixed or become essentialized as signifying vis
ceral rejection. For one night, on another visit home from college, Diana
experiences an expansive moment, looking outside the house at dawn: "I
sense the distances between places, our homes, even between America and
Jordan, start to disintegrate. Geography turns liquid. There's something in us
connecting every person to every other person" (229). Suddenly she is over
come by a strong urge for labneh, strained yogurt, "the simplest dish in the
world," a kind of "mother's milk." In the wake of this incident, "the nausea
has stopped as mysteriously as it started," and she is once again able to eat her
fathers food, and to continue to carve out her own evolving borders and per
sonhood as a writer (229).
Later entries in The Language ofBaklava find Diana some years later, back
in Jordan for a year on a Fulbright doing research for a novel, and re-immersing
in Jordanian food, culture, and the vagaries of her extended family, much of
which has returned from extended sojourns in the U.S. This is followed by
her return to America, and even though she had looked forward to her return
with much anticipation, once back she expresses how she misses many things
in Jordan, warts and all. For her, ultimately, there is no settling down fully in
one culture or another, one home or another. She continues on her path of
movement and settling, describing herself by the end of the memoir as "a
reluctant Bedouin" who "misses every place, every country" in which she has
ever lived, and who never wants to leave any of those places for good. At the
end of the memoir, she echoes a question that formed in her long ago when
she saw parts of her father come to life when they were in Jordan. Her earlier
question was: "do people have to decide exactly who they are and where
exactly their home is? Do we have to know who we are once and for all?" She
closes the memoir saying: "I want to cry out, to protest... why must there be
only one home?!" (328). As a question that we must assume has been articu
lated in the "language of baklava," the answer, renegotiated in different ways
throughout Abu Jaber s memoir, is: there is not only one home. There could
not be only one unambiguous and fixed home for transnational subjects such
as Abu Jaber. Home is many places, to which one feels strong affiliations but
does not belong fully or unambiguously, affiliations that are in flux and re
negotiated over time, and both through experience and through the construct
of the ideology of homeland.
Appendix
For the interest of readers who may not be familiar with sources in Arab
American Studies, I provide here a list of selected works.
(A) Works pertaining to, and that underscore the complexity of, the Arab
American experience:
Abraham, Nabeel and Andrew Shryock (eds), Arab Detroit: From Margin to
Mainstream, (Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 2000).
(C) Selected recent works from the emergent body of scholarship on Arab
American literature:
Amireh, Amal and Lisa Suhair Majaj (eds), EtelAdnan: Critical Essays on the
Arab American Writer and Artist (Jefferson, N.C.: McFarland and Co,
2001).
Fadda-Conrey, Carol, "Racially White But Culturally Colored: Defining
Contemporary Arab American Literature and Its Transnational Connec
tions," Ph.D. dissertation, Purdue University, 2006.
-"Arab American Literature in the Ethnic Borderland: Cultural Intersec
tions in Diana Abu-Jabers Crescent'; MELUS 3114 (Winter, 2006): 187-205.
Gana, Nouri, "Introduction: Race, Islam, and the Task of Muslim and Arab
American Writing," Writing While Arab, PMLA 123/5 (October 2008):
1573-80.
-"In Search of Andalusia: Reconfiguring Arabness in Diana Abu-Jaber s
Crescent" in Comparative Literature Studies 45/2 (2008): 228-246.
Hartman, Michelle, '"This Sweet/Sweet Music': Jazz, Sam Cooke, and Reading
Arab American Literary Identities," MELUS 31/4 (Winter 2006): 145-165/
Hassan, Salah and Marcy Jane Knopf-Newman, On Arab American Literature
Special issue of MELUS, The Journal of the Society for the Study of Multi
Ethnic Literature of the United States 31/4 (Winter 2006).
Jarmakani, Amira, Imagining Arab Womanhood: The Mythology of Veils, Harems
and Belly-Dancers in the U.S. (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008).
Kaldas, Pauline, "Beyond Stereotypes: Representational Dilemmas in Arabian
Jazz; MELUS 3114 (Winter 2006): 67-185.
(D) A selection from the growing number of new Arab American writers
publishing (or performing) alongside earlier more established writers:
Almaz Abinader, Rabih Alameddine, Leila Buck, Hayan Charara, Susan Muaddi
Darraj, Joe Geha, Suheir Hammad, Nathalie Handal, Randa Jarrar, Fady Jouda,
Mohja Kahf, Lala Lalami, Lisa Suheir Majaj, Khaled Mattawa, Najla Said,
Naomi Shihab Nye, Heather RafTo, Betty Shamieh, Will Youmans.