AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING

By John Kowalski

How to apply foil

Tips and techniques for perfect natural-metal finishes

I
’ve tried several products to paint natural-metal finishes,
including Testors Model Master Metalizer and Alclad II.
Both produced finishes that looked like they were painted, so
I wasn’t satisfied. In 2016, while visiting a local air show that
featured several World War II aircraft, I had a revelation about
what makes bare-metal aircraft look so unique. The colors of the
individual panels vary, there’s a subtle grain in the aluminum, and
rivets are visible. That prompted me to try metal foil as a finishing
material. I ordered Bare-Metal Foil (BMF), a thin, self-adhesive
foil that is available in several sheens; I use two sheens: Matte
Aluminum and Chrome. The foil has subtle grain on the surface.
I’ve used it several times and this is how I get the right look.

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Tools
The most important thing you’ll need is a hobby knife with plenty
of replacement blades; cutting foil quickly dulls blades and a dull
blade will tear the foil. I also use a self-healing cutting mat, a
6-inch metal ruler with cork backing to measure the foil and aid in
cutting it on its backing paper, paper sticks (stumps) to burnish the
foil, 0000 steel wool to enhance the foil’s grain, and Post-it notes to
measure around curves, 1. A plastic lettering guide works as a flexi-
ble straightedge for trimming foil and for guiding a pounce wheel
around curved surfaces, 2 and 3. For those rivets, I have a set from
RB Productions that includes four wheels of different spacing, 4.

1 2
A magnifying device is a welcome addition to a basic tool kit for I use a lettering template leftover from my high school drafting class as
applying foil. a flexible straightedge.

3 4
A flexible straightedge is perfect for trimming foil and guiding a rivet Rivets can be easily added to a foiled surface using a pounce wheel.
tool around curves.

Workplace cleanliness
When applying foil, it is essential to keep
the model, workbench, and your hands as
clean as possible. Debris under BMF will
destroy the effect. So, I always wash my
hands, the model, and the work surface
before applying foil, 5.

5
The smallest piece of dust, fuzz, grit, or hair will ruin a foiled finish. This panel will need to be
removed and another piece fitted after the surface is cleaned.

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Paint first and foil later
Two things need to be done before applying foil: First, all seams
need to be filled with putty and sanded smooth with fine sandpa-
per, because any imperfections will show through the foil. Second,
things such as deicing boots, antiglare panels, and fabric rudders
and other control surfaces must be painted. It is next to impossible
to remove tape from foil without pulling it up, 6.
Foil the assembled wings and fuselage separately. Applying,
trimming, and burnishing foil requires the model to be reoriented
constantly, which can be difficult especially on large, assembled air-
frames.
Plus, some areas are just easier to reach to trim and burnish
when the wings are separate, 7.

6 7
When I built Monogram’s 1/48 scale B-24, I painted the deicing boots, Monogram’s 1/48 scale B-29 is a beast with a fuselage measuring more
engine superchargers, and gear bays before adding foil. Note also the than 2 feet long and each wing well over 14 inches. It’s just easier to foil
filled and sanded gaps on the nacelles. the components separately.

Applying the foil

In my opinion, Bare-Metal Foil Matte Aluminum is too bright in
the package. So, I spray the sheet with Simple Green and wipe it
dry to reduce the shine. Each panel must be foiled separately,
which provides the opportunity to use different foil sheens, rotate
the direction of the grain, and the foil edges make panel lines.
Measure the panel and add a little extra all the way around for
trimming, then cut the foil using a metal ruler as a guide. Go slow
and apply gentle pressure. Lift one edge of the foil with the tip of
the knife, use your fingers to peel it from the backing, and transfer
the foil to the panel. Then press the foil into place by rubbing it
with your finger; wrinkles will be removed by burnishing, 8.
Next, use a paper stump and rub, rub, rub until the pebbly tex-
ture of the foil disappears. Don’t worry: The foil will not tear when
rubbed hard, 9. Use a straightedge to trim the foil along the panel
lines, 10. With practice, it is possible to guide the knife along the
panel line without a straightedge, just go slowly.
Lightly rub the foil with 0000 steel wool to enhance the grain,
11. Always rub parallel to panel lines and make only one pass.
Congratulations, you’ve completed the first of many panels. Apply
subsequent panels in the same manner, but keep in mind that you
can rotate the grain 90 degrees and use a different shade of foil, 12.
I recommend using matte aluminum for most of the panels and
reserving chrome for just a few. Finishing too many panels in
chrome can produce a checkerboard effect that doesn’t look real.

8 9 10
Apply the slightly oversized piece of foil to a A paper stump is the perfect burnishing tool Burnishing reveals the panel lines making it
panel and gently smooth it into place with a because you can go over the panel several easy to carefully trim around the panel and
finger. times to remove wrinkles with minimal risk. peel away excess foil.

11 12
It doesn’t take much work to enhance the foil’s grain with steel wool but Different sheens of foil can add visual interest to the model but be
always rub parallel to one of the panel lines. careful not to overdo the effect.

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Adding rivets and decals
With foiling complete, it’s time to add rivets, which really enhances
the model’s realism. It is important to keep rows of rivets spaced
evenly and parallel with panel lines. Rivets should also be applied
to each side of the panel lines. After measuring, I mark the location
of rivets directly on the foil with a black Sharpie marker, the ink is
easily removed with a wet finger. Then it’s a simple matter to place
the flexible straightedge along the marks and gently run the pounce
wheel along it, 13 and 14.
13 14
Once the rivet locations are marked, it’s The key to realistic rivets is ensuring they are
relatively quick and easy to run the pounce evenly spaced, parallel, and the lines are
wheel along a straightedge. straight.
Applying clear gloss to foil makes it look like the surface has
been painted, defeating the purpose. But that can complicate add-
ing decals, especially if the carrier film has a flat finish, which can
cause silvering. When possible, remove as much carrier film as pos-
sible to minimize silvering, 15.
I add a few drops of dish soap to the water I use to soak the
decals so they slide on the foil. Decal setting solution helps settle
the decals.
15
It is best to cut large letters, such as this USAF,
into individual decals to eliminate carrier film.
FINAL THOUGHTS
FIRST, RESEARCH THE AIRCRAFT you
are modeling for panel appearance and
rivet spacing. Second, foiling an airplane
is a marathon, not a sprint. I spent more
than 100 hours building the 1/48 scale
Liberator you see in the photos, most of
it applying Bare-Metal Foil and rivets.
So, be patient. Third, don’t make a 1/48
scale B-29 your first foiling project.
Instead, pick an airplane with a simple
shape, like a P-47. FSM
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