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To cite this article: Yiwen Zheng & Ting Chi (2015) Factors influencing purchase intention towards
environmentally friendly apparel: an empirical study of US consumers, International Journal of
Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 8:2, 68-77, DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2014.990059
Understanding of the different roles of key factors in the formation of consumer purchase intention towards environmentally
friendly apparel (EFA) is crucial in developing effective marketing strategies. Building on the theory of reasoned action and
the theory of planned behaviour, with additional antecedents and moderators (i.e. perceived consumer effectiveness, past
behaviour, EFA knowledge), an enhanced consumer EFA purchase intention model was proposed and tested. Using 187
survey responses from US college students, factor analysis and structural equation modelling were utilised for data analysis
and hypothesis testing. Results demonstrate that the model has sound psychometric properties while the statistical criteria
are also well met. The model exhibits high explanatory power, accounting for 66.5% of variance in consumer EFA purchase
intention. Attitude, subjective norm, and PCE show significantly positive effects on EFA purchase intention, while perceived
behaviour control and EFA knowledge enhance the relationship between attitude towards EFA and EFA purchase intention.
Keywords: environmentally friendly apparel; purchase intention; US consumers
Introduction reflect their values, and represent their lifestyle (Lin, 2009;
In recent years, accelerated deterioration of natural Lipson, 2008). This is particularly apparent in the US
environment has attracted more consumers’ attentions. apparel industry that has long been considered one of most
Concern for the safety and long-term condition of the envi- environmentally unfriendly businesses (Allwood, Laursen,
ronment has been growing worldwide (Connell, 2010). Rodríguez, & Bocken, 2006). Approximately 21 billion
More consumers are taking responsibility to change per- pounds of apparel end up in landfill in the USA every year
sonal consumption behaviours with the hope that individ- (Dockterman, 2012). The manufacturing processes of man-
ual small efforts may add together to have a notable impact made and natural fibres, the spinning process from fibres
on the environment (Kim & Damhorst, 1998; Mostafa, to yarns, the weaving process from yarns to fabrics, and
2007). These consumers are called environmentally con- care of products consume a substantial amount of resources
scious consumers (a.k.a. green consumers or environmen- (e.g. water, energy) and discharge millions of gallons of
tally friendly consumers) (Chan, 2001; Ha-Brookshire & effluent every year (Thiry, 2011). In addition, the chemi-
Norum, 2011; Lee, 2008). A product that has little to cals used in pre-treatment, dyeing, printing, and finishing
no impact on the environment during manufacturing, use processes pose great environmental hazards and may cause
or disposal is regarded as an environmentally friendly severe health problems to people involved (Allwood et al.,
product (a.k.a. green product) (Pickett-Baker & Ozaki, 2006; Ha-Brookshire & Norum, 2011).
2008). These products are often identified on labels or Given the considerable negative impacts of the apparel
packages by words such as natural, organic, recyclable, industry on the environment and the ever-increasing pub-
environmentally friendly, and biodegradable. lic concern about environmental issues, a growing num-
With consumers becoming more interested in envi- ber of apparel companies have developed environmentally
ronmentally friendly products, companies have started friendly strategies and practices (Chi, 2011; Guevarra,
to realise environmental issues could be a new source 2012). Patagonia was the first major brand to make fleece
of competitive advantage in business and are shifting jackets out of recycled plastic bottles. Nike adopted water-
focus to provide environmentally conscious consumers less dyeing techniques and used more organic and recycled
with more product options that meet their preferences, materials. Levi Strauss & Co. introduced eco jean product
line made of organic cotton to the market. The North Theory of reasoned action and theory of planned
Face redesigned its manufacturing process to be more behaviour
environmentally friendly (Guevarra, 2012). TRA was proposed by Ajzen and Fishbein (1973).
In general, environmentally friendly apparel (EFA) The components of TRA are three constructs that are
(a.k.a. environmentally responsible apparel, sustainable behavioural intention, attitude, and subjective norm. TRA
apparel, or green apparel) should have one or more of suggests that a person’s behavioural intention depends on
the following characteristics: apparel made from recycled the person’s attitude about the behaviour and subjective
materials, apparel that can be worn over a long-term com- norms. Behavioural intention measures a person’s relative
pared to trendy apparel that goes out of style quickly, strength of intention to perform a behaviour. In general, the
apparel made of organically grown natural fibres, apparel stronger the intention to engage in a behaviour, the more
with low impact or no-dye processing, and apparel with likely it will actually be performed (Ajzen, 1991). Attitude
environmentally friendly labelling or packaging (Con- consists of beliefs about the consequences of performing
nell, 2010; Kim & Damhorst, 1998). Results from a the behaviour (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1973). If a person has
recent nationwide survey of US consumers show that positive attitude towards a particular behaviour, he/she is
about 36% of consumers were interested in shopping more likely to form positive intention towards it (Man-
EFA in 2010, a remarkable increase from 17% in 2006 aktola & Jauhari, 2007). Subjective norm is viewed as a
(Mintel, 2010). As a leading market for environmentally combination of perceived expectations from relevant indi-
friendly products, the USA reported approximately $4 bil- viduals or groups along with intentions to comply with
lion sales in EFA and accessories in 2012, growing from these expectations (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1973). Thus, if a
less than half a billion dollars a decade ago (El Nasser, person believes significant others want him/her to perform
2013). a behaviour and he/she is motivated to comply with, it is
Despite the great potential of this market and the recent expected the person is more likely to perform the behaviour
enthusiasm shown by industrial practitioners, timely and (Maya, López-López, & Munuera, 2011).
systematic scholarly research devoted to understanding To improve the predictive power of TRA, Ajzen (1991)
this scenario (i.e. consumer purchase intention towards further introduced TPB by adding another construct named
EFA) has been lagging (Connell, 2010; Ellis, McCracken, PBC to TRA. Ajzen (1991) argued that a person’s intention
& Skuza, 2012). To address the gap in the literature to perform a specific behaviour is expected to control the
and provide essential understanding of this emergent phe- volitional factors that influence the behaviour. These fac-
nomenon, this study aims to empirically determine the tors indicate the extent of efforts to make and the degree
factors that significantly affect the US consumers’ EFA of willingness to try, of individuals, in order to produce
purchase intention and provide new insights into the con- the behaviour (Lee, 2008). Therefore, PBC is defined by
sumer behaviour surrounding the EFA consumption. In Ajzen (1991) as a person’s perception of the ease or diffi-
specific, the purposes of this study are fourfold. First, culty of engaging in the behaviour of interest. In addition to
building on the Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA) and the direct impact on purchase intention, recent studies also
Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB), an enhanced con- revealed that PBC might positively moderate the relation-
sumer EFA purchase intention model is developed through ship between consumers’ attitude and purchase intention.
incorporating additional antecedents and moderators. Sec- Greater PBC results in a stronger positive relationship
ond, the psychometric properties of the developed model between attitude and purchase intention (Chung & Kim,
are tested using the gathered primary survey data. Third, 2011). Thus, hypotheses 1–4 are proposed as follows.
the effects of significant factors on US consumer EFA pur-
chase intention are determined. Finally, based on the find- H1: Consumers’ attitudes toward EFA positively affect
ings, some marketing strategies are proposed for industrial their intentions to purchase EFA.
practitioners. H2: Consumers’ subjective norms positively affect their
intentions to purchase EFA.
EFA or environmentally friendly products in general. those who perceive less personal efficacy. Purchase inten-
Additional antecedents and moderators, including EFA tion and behaviour are affected by whether individuals
knowledge, PCE, and past EFA purchase behaviour, have believe or not their behaviours would lead to the desired
been proposed and investigated by respective empirical outcome (Ellen, Wiener, & Cobb-Walgren, 1991). Roberts’
studies (e.g. Chan, 2001; Jin & Kang, 2011; Mostafa, (1996) study showed that PCE is one of the best pre-
2007; Tan & Lau, 2011; Wang, 2006). Incorporation of dictors of environmentally conscious consumer behaviour,
these constructs to the original TPB has helped to enhance accounting for 33% of the variance in behaviour. Tan
the explanatory power of TPB at different degrees for and Lau (2011) found that PCE significantly affects con-
consumers’ purchase intentions towards environmentally sumers’ purchase behaviour of environmental products.
friendly products. Therefore, this study integrated them They explained the reason that consumers bought envi-
to the TPB to develop an enhanced research model for ronmental products is that they believe their actions or
understanding consumer purchase intention towards EFA. efforts of purchasing such products benefit environmental
protection. Thus, the following hypothesis 7 is proposed.
EFA knowledge H7: PCE positively affects consumer purchase intention
toward EFA.
Kim and Damhorst (1998) studied the effect of US con-
sumers’ EFA knowledge on their purchase behaviours. The
college student sample that they used showed insufficient Past behaviour
EFA knowledge in general but the relationship between The proposition that incorporation of past behaviour into
EFA knowledge and purchase behaviour was marginally TPB enhances exploratory power for current purchase
significant. Based on the analysis of the survey responses intention or behaviour finds supports in some prior stud-
from Chinese consumers, Chan and Lau (2001) found con- ies (De Cannière, Pelsmacker, & Geuens, 2009; Han &
sumers’ environmental knowledge positively affects their Kim, 2010; Smith et al., 2007; Sparks & Shepherd, 1992).
purchase intension towards environmentally friendly prod- In Sparks and Shepherd’s (1992) study of the determi-
ucts although the survey respondents did not show ade- nants of consumers’ intentions to buy organic vegetables,
quate understanding of environmental issues. In another past consumption was the second most explanatory fac-
study that investigated the antecedents of environmentally tor after PBC. Smith et al. (2007) demonstrated that past
friendly purchase behaviour among young consumers in behaviour accounted for some 9% variance in predicating
Hong Kong, Lee (2011) proved that consumers’ environ- purchase intention. In a study of customers’ green hotel
mental knowledge accounts for some 12% of the total vari- lodging decision-making, Han and Kim (2010) proved that
ance in explaining their purchase behaviour. In addition to the frequency of past behaviour has a positive impact on
the direct effect, some studies also found that consumers’ customers’ revisit intentions. It was also found that past
environmental knowledge could moderate the relationship behaviour significantly affects apparel purchase behaviour
between attitude and purchase intension towards environ- (De Cannière et al., 2009). Therefore, hypothesis 8 is
mentally friendly products (Chan, 2001; Mostafa, 2007). proposed.
Therefore, the following hypotheses 5 and 6 are proposed.
H8: Past behaviour positively affects consumers’ purchase
H5: EFA knowledge has significantly positive effect on intentions toward EFA.
EFA purchase intention.
Table 1. Profile of survey respondents. re-computation of factor loadings, coefficient alpha, and
item-to-total correlations, and also a re-examination of fac-
Demographic Per cent Demographic Per cent
tor structure using the reduced number of measurement
variables (%) variables (%)
variables. This iterative procedure was repeated until all
Gender Ethnicity requirements were met.
Male 44 White, 60 For testing the model and hypotheses, the two-step
Caucasian structural equation modelling (SEM) approach (Anderson
Female 56 African- 7
American, & Gerbing, 1988; Byrne, 1998) was conducted. In step
Black one, we established the measurement model (i.e. latent
Age Asian, Pacific 13 construct) adequacy for five latent constructs, namely
islanders attitude, subjective norm, PBC, PCE, and purchase inten-
18–19 11 Hispanic, 9 tion through assessing model-to-data fit, unidimensional-
Latino
20–25 87 Others 11 ity, reliability, and construct validity of all measurement
≥ 26 2 models. A measurement model is unidimensional if all the
Average discretionary Average apparel measurement variables of the model measure one com-
money per semester expenditure mon latent construct (Ping, 2004). Unidimensionality of
(excluding food, rental, per quarter a model is suggested if its chi-square test is insignifi-
tuition and fees)
< $500 36 $0–49 19 cant (Jöreskog & Sörbom, 1998). After all measurement
$500–$999 25 $50–99 17 models met unidimensionality, their reliabilities were then
$1000–1999 15 $100–199 17 assessed using the criteria of both Cronbach’s coefficient
$2000–2999 11 $200–299 14 alpha (Nunnally, 1978) and construct reliability (Fornell
$3000–3999 4 $300–399 15 & Larcker, 1981) of 0.70 and greater. Construct validity
$4000–4999 2 $400–499 4
≥ $5000 7 $500–599 6 consists of convergent validity and discriminant validity.
≥ $600 8 All of the measures’ loadings are significantly high, and
all goodness-of-fit indices meet recommended values and
Note: Total eligible responses were 187. suggest convergent validity. The common goodness-of-fit
(GFI) indices used in this study include normed chi-square
( < 2), the room mean square error of approximation
African-American, and 11% were others. With regard to
(RMSEA) ( < 0.08), the GFI ( > 0.90), the normed fit
discretionary money per semester (excluding food, rental,
index (NFI) ( > 0.90), and the non-normed fit index (NNFI)
tuition, and fees), 36% of the respondents indicated it was
( > 0.90) (Byrne, 1998). An additional indication of con-
less than $500, while 25% were between $500 and $999,
vergent validity is the average variance extracted (AVE)
15% were between $1000 and $1999, 11% were between
with a desired threshold of 0.5 (Fornell & Larcker, 1981).
$2000 and $2999, 4% fell into a range of $3000 to $3999,
Discriminant validity is shown by the confidence interval
2% were from $4000 to $4999, and 7% were $5000 and
of two standard errors around the correlation between each
higher. Majority of the respondents averagely spent less
respective pair of latent constructs. If the confidence inter-
than $399 on apparel per quarter. In specific, 19% were
val does not capture 1.0, discriminant validity is proven
less than $49, 17% were between $50 and $99, 17% were
(Anderson & Gerbing, 1988). Then, in step two, full struc-
from $100 to $199, 14% were between $200 and $299, and
tural model adequacy was evaluated via hypothesis test-
15% were between $300 and $399. Only 23% respondents
ing, model-to-data fit, and parameter estimates using path
spent more than $399 on apparel per quarter. In specific,
analysis with SEM (Byrne, 1998).
4% were between $400 and $499, 6% were between $500
and $599, and 8% spent more than $600 per quarter.
Table 2. Correlations and properties of all latent constructs, EFA knowledge, and past behaviour.
Construct 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Note: EFA knowledge and past behaviour are ordinal variables. Confidence intervals of paired latent constructs are included in the right
upper part of the table.
*Correlation is significant at p < .05 (two-tailed).
**Correlation is significant at p < .01 (two-tailed).
of the remaining measurement variables to their respective 2009; Ping, 1995). For each interaction term, the single
latent constructs are high and statistically significant. indicant was created by multiplying together the single
indicants of the interaction term’s component constructs
(Ping, 1995). This technique has been extensively applied
Measurement model test results and discussion in prior empirical studies (Agarwal & Malhotra, 2005;
Table 2 presents the correlations and properties of all five Cadogan et al., 2006; Morgan et al., 2009; Ping, 2004;
latent constructs, EFA knowledge, and past behaviour. Völckner & Sattler, 2006).
The results indicated all measurement models met the The structural model was then assessed. The model
model-to-data fit requirements. The chi-square tests of all fits the data well at normed chi-square of 1.72, RMSEA
measurement models were insignificant, which established of 0.06, GFI of 0.94, NFI of 0.95, and NNFI of 0.96. A
the evidences of unidimensionality. Cronbach’s coefficient full model was specified with all constructs and interac-
alphas and construct reliabilities of all constructs were tion terms included. The unrestricted model (all parameters
greater than 0.70, indicating that reliability was rigorously were freed) accounts for 66.5% of the variance (R2 ) of
met. All measurement variables’ loadings were signifi- consumer EFA purchase intention, while only 61.2% of
cantly high (loadings > 0.60 and t-values > 1.96) and all the variance (R2 ) was explained by the restricted model
of the goodness-of-fit indices exceeded the criterion val- (the parameters linking interaction terms to purchase inten-
ues, suggesting convergent validity. In addition, the AVE tion were fixed at zero, and the remaining parameters were
scores for all models were above the desired threshold of freely estimated). It is evident that the unrestricted model
0.50. None of the confidence intervals captured 1.0; thus, provides a prominent improvement over the restricted
the criteria of discriminant validity were met. model. Thus, the hypotheses were evaluated based on the
test results of unrestricted model. Table 3 provides the
path coefficient estimates and corresponding t-values on
Structural model test results and discussion the main effects and the moderating effects.
Once the adequacies of all measurement models were Among the eight hypotheses, five are supported while
demonstrated, the structural model fits and proposed three are rejected. The relationship between attitude
hypotheses concerning the main and moderating effects towards EFA purchase and EFA purchase intention is pos-
were tested. Ping’s (1995) estimation technique for interac- itively significant (γ = 0.25, t = 2.64), supporting H1.
tion latent constructs in the structural equation model was A positive attitude towards EFA purchase enhances EFA
used. To minimise the volume of linear latent constructs purchase intention. Subjective norm positively affects the
and non-linear latent construct measures in a model, the use consumers’ EFA purchase intention (γ = 0.22, t = 3.13),
of single indicants for constructs in the model involving supporting H2. The relationship between PBC and EFA
interaction terms has been recommended (Morgan et al., purchase intention is insignificant (γ = 0.01, t = 0.15),
74 Y. Zheng and T. Chi
Note: SN, Subjective norm; PBC, perceived behaviour control; KN, EFA knowledge; PCE, perceived consumer effectiveness; PB, past
behaviour; PI, purchase intention; when α = 0.05, critical t-value = 1.645; when α = 0.10, critical t-value = 1.282 (since all hypotheses
are directional, one-tailed tests were used).
*Hypotheses are supported or rejected at α = 0.05 level.
failing to support H3. The moderating effect of PBC on the consumers’ purchase intention towards EFA is still limited.
relationship between attitude towards EFA purchase and Furthermore, the empirical findings of consumer purchase
EFA purchase intention is positively significant (γ = 0.20, intention towards other environmentally friendly products
t = 2.38), supporting H4. This indicates the effect of atti- cannot be simply applied to EFA. Re-examination of these
tude towards EFA purchase on EFA purchase intention can findings in the context of EFA is needed. The great poten-
be enhanced by PBC. tial of EFA market in the USA provides a solid rational for
The effect of environmental apparel knowledge on EFA this study.
purchase intention is insignificant (γ = 0.03, t = 0.57), Overall, the major contributions of this study to the
failing to support H5. This shows that a consumer’s level literature are threefold. First, building on the TRA and
of environmental apparel knowledge has no significant TPB, additional antecedents and moderators (i.e. PCE, past
effect on his/her EFA purchase intention. However, the behaviour, EFA knowledge) were included to propose an
moderating effect of environmental apparel knowledge enhanced consumer EFA purchase intention model. The
on the relationship between attitude towards EFA pur- model exhibits high explanatory power for consumer EFA
chase and intention to buy EFA is positively significant purchase intention, collectively accounting for 66.5% of
(γ = 0.21, t = 2.17), supporting H6. A higher level of variance. Second, since the proposed model shows sound
environmental apparel knowledge enhances the strength and stable psychometric properties while the statistical cri-
of the relationship between consumer’s attitude and EFA teria are also well met, it offers a valid and reliable tool
purchase intention. PCE significantly affects EFA purchase to investigate the issue for other products or countries.
intention (γ = 0.35, t = 3.51), supporting H7. This shows Finally, in addition to the good accountability of traditional
that a higher level confidence in individual contribution constructs in TRA and TPB, some new findings from the
to environment through purchasing EFA leads to greater enhanced model add special insights to the understanding
EFA purchase intention. Finally, the relationship between of US consumers’ EFA purchase intentions. Specifically,
past EFA purchase behaviour and EFA purchase inten- the extent to which an individual believes that he/she can
tion is insignificant (γ = 0.08, t = 1.06), failing to support be effective in pollution abatement positively affects his/her
H8. This indicates whether a consumer previously pur- EFA purchase intention. Although some previous studies
chased EFA or not does not significantly affect his/her EFA indicated there should be a logical cause–effect relation-
purchase intention. ship between the past EFA purchase behaviour and the
level of environmental apparel knowledge and consumers’
purchase intentions, this study does not find empirical
Conclusions and implications evidence to support these speculations.
The apparel industry has imposed a substantial influ- This study also imparts some managerial implications.
ence on natural environment. In recent years, an increas- The empirical finding shows that EFA purchase attitude
ing number of apparel companies have started to make influences US consumers’ EFA purchase intentions. Com-
more efforts to mitigate the negative impacts of apparel panies should develop marketing strategies and promo-
businesses on environment. These efforts include using tional campaigns to cultivate and promote favourable atti-
environmentally friendly materials, promoting sustainable tudes among target consumers towards EFA consumption.
product development, implementing sustainable produc- In advertisements, companies should emphasise the impor-
tion and dyeing/finishing techniques, supplying recycling tance of EFA consumption in doing well for the future
services, and so on. However, in contrast, understanding of generations and the preservation of natural environment.
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 75
As the effect of attitude on EFA purchase intention is consumers requires further validation. Second, since this
enhanced by the environmental apparel knowledge, clear study is focused on EFA, the survey instrument is prod-
information regarding how the EFA products may help uct specific. The application of survey instrument to other
conserve natural resources and about the exact benefits studies requires appropriate revisions. Finally, this study
that EFA computation contributes to sustainability com- adopted a quantitative approach. Although the quantitative
pared to traditional apparel should be stated in the product approach allows examination of the causal relationships
labels and advertisements. Although the increase in the between individual factors and EFA purchase intention, it
EFA knowledge does not directly lead to higher EFA pur- is considered weak in discovering the underlying reasons
chase intention, it is essential for companies to educate the to the phenomenon. Qualitative methods used in future
target consumers about the environmental benefits of EFA. studies might provide a more detailed reasoning about the
The consumers’ PBC can enhance the effect of the atti- relationships identified in the quantitative analysis.
tude on the EFA purchase intention. Companies should
increase the availability of EFA through different sales
Disclosure statement
channels and try to lower consumers’ high price percep-
tions of EFA. The convenient accessibility to affordable No potential conflict of interest was reported by the
EFA could improve consumer perceived capability to buy authors.
EFA and therefore strengthen the effect of favourable
attitudes on the EFA purchase intention. References
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