SOLDERING TIPS

What Is Soldering?
Soldering is the process of joining two or more electronic
parts together by melting solder around the connection.
Solder is a metal alloy and when it cools it creates a strong
electrical bond between the parts.

Soldering Tools
Soldering Iron
A soldering iron is a hand tool that plugs into a standard 220v
AC outlet and heats up in order to melt solder around
electrical connections. This is one of the most important tools
used in soldering and it can come in a few variations such as
pen or gun form.
Soldering Station
A soldering station is a more advanced version of the basic
standalone soldering pen. If you are going to be doing a lot of
soldering, these are great to have as they offer more
flexibility and control. The main benefit of a soldering station
is the ability to precisely adjust the temperature of the
soldering iron which is great for a range of projects.
Soldering Iron Tips
Conical Tip – Used in precision electronics soldering because
of the fine tip. Because of its pointed end, it’s able to deliver
heat to smaller areas without affecting its surroundings.
Chisel Tip – This tip is well-suited to soldering wires or other
larger components because of its broad flat tip.
Brass or Conventional Sponge
Using a sponge will help to keep the soldering iron tip clean
by removing the oxidation that forms. Tips with oxidation will
tend to turn black and not accept solder as it did when it was
new.
Soldering Iron Stand
A soldering iron stand is very basic but very useful and handy
to have. This stand helps prevent the hot iron tip from
coming in contact with flammable materials or causing
accidental injury to your hand.
Solder
Solder is a metal alloy material that is melted to create a
permanent bond between electrical parts. It comes in both
lead and lead-free variations with diameters of .032″
and .062″ being the most common. Inside the solder core is a
material known as flux which helps improve electrical contact
and its mechanical strength.
For electronics soldering, the most commonly used type
is lead-free rosin core solder. This type of solder is usually
made up of a Tin/Copper alloy. You can also use leaded 60/40
(60% tin, 40% lead) rosin core solder
Helping Hand (Third Hand)
A helping hand is a device that has 2 or more alligator clips
and sometimes a magnifying glass/light attached. This clips
will assist you by holding the items you are trying to solder
while you use the soldering iron and solder.

HOW TO SOLDER
Step 1: Mount The Component – Begin by inserting the
leads of the LED into the holes of the circuit board. Flip the
board over and bend the leads outward at a 45′ angle. This
will help the component make a better connection with the
copper pad and prevent it from falling out while soldering.
Step 2: Heat The Joint – Turn your soldering iron on and if it
has an adjustable heat control, set it to 400’C. At this point,
touch the tip of the iron to the copper pad and the resistor lead
at the same time. You need to hold the soldering iron in place
for 3-4 seconds in order to heat the pad and the lead.
Step 3: Apply Solder To Joint – Continue holding the
soldering iron on the copper pad and the lead and touch your
solder to the joint. IMPORTANT – Don’t touch the solder
directly to the tip of the iron. You want the joint to be hot
enough to melt the solder when it’s touched. If the joint is too
cold, it will form a bad connection.
Step 4: Snip The Leads – Remove the soldering iron and let
the solder cool down naturally. Don’t blow on the solder as
this will cause a bad joint. Once cool, you can snip the extra
wire from leads.

Desoldering
To desolder a joint, you will need solder wick which is also
known as desoldering braid.
Step 1 – Place a piece of the desoldering braid on top of the
joint/solder you want removed.
Step 2 – Heat your soldering iron and touch the tip to the top
of the braid. This will heat the solder below which will then
be absorbed into the desoldering braid. You can now remove
the braid to see the solder has been extracted and removed. Be
careful touching the braid when you are heating it because it
will get hot.
Optional – If you have a lot of solder you want removed, you
may want to use a device called a solder sucker. This is a
handheld mechanical vacuum that sucks up hot solder with a
press of a button.
To use, press the plunger down at the end of the solder sucker.
Heat the joint with your soldering iron and place the tip of the
solder sucker over the hot solder. Press the release button to
suck up the liquid solder. In order to empty the solder sucker,
press down on the plunger.

Soldering Tips
1. Use a good soldering iron, preferably a cordless one, or
a temperature-controlled soldering station.
2. Use the correct type of vise or third hand.
3. Use the thinnest solder appropriate for your project.
4. 60/40 solder is recommended for beginners.
5. Use the right-size tip for your project.
6. Allow the soldering iron to reach the right temperature.
7. Hold the soldering iron by the right end – the cool end.
8. Apply the iron to the joint first and then the solder to the
lead and allow it to spread, and watch out for dripping
solder.
9. . Don't put too much solder on – "the bigger the blob, the
better the job" is not true here.
10. Tin your wires by placing a small amount of solder to the
iron and then wiping it off first, then solder the
connection.
11. Clean the tip often with iron wool, a wet sponge and tip
cleaner.
12. Don't apply pressure on the soldering iron.
13. Don't move the joint while its cooling and don't blow on it
to cool it off.
14. Practice on scrap before starting your project.
15. Remember, practice makes perfect!

Soldering Safety Tips

1. Don't burn yourself

2. Don't burn anything else
When you do burn yourself – be sure to have first aid
supplies near by:
• First Aid Kit
• Bandages
• Cold Packs
• Aloe Vera
• Fire Extinguishers
3. Wear pants to protect your legs, safety glasses and don't
wear polyester clothing.
4. Work in a clean area free of oils, grease and anything that is
flammable.
5. Don't eat greasy foods while you solder.
6. Solder slowly and stay focused.
7. Always return the soldering iron to the stand after each use
and grab the cool end when you use it.
8. Remember: It takes a long time for the soldering iron to
cool off.
9. Always unplug the soldering iron when you're done.

PCB Etching and Its Process

What is pcb etching?
It is the process of chemically removing copper from a PCB
to leave only the desired copper traces on the board.
This allows for the creation of the conductive paths between
components on a PCB that make up an electrical circuit.
It is a crucial step in PCB fabrication and allows printed
circuit boards to be manufactured efficiently and
economically.
In PCB etching, a chemical etchant solution dissolves away
unwanted copper from the PCB laminate, while a resist
(usually a polymer film) protects the copper traces from being
etched away.
When the etching is complete, only the desired copper circuit
pattern remains on the PCB.
PCB ETCHING PROCESS
A. PCB Design – the circuit board layout is designed and the
copper traces are defined. This is usually done with CAD
software or it can be done manually for simple electronic
circuits.
B. Print Etch Resist –a resist material is printed or coated onto
the copper clad PCB blank. The resist protects the copper
traces from being etched away. Common resists include dry
film, liquid photoimageable soldermask, and toner ink.
C. Expose and Develop Resist – the PCB is exposed to UV
light through a mask or artwork film. This cures and hardens
the resist in the exposed areas.
D. Etch Copper – The remaining resist material is stripped
away, revealing the finished copper circuity pattern on the
board. This may involve chemical stripping, abrasion, or
thermal methods.
E. Drill Holes and Finish PCB – holes are drilled in the PCB
according to the circuit design. The boards are then finished
by cleaning, tinning, etc. the etched boards are now ready for
component assembly.
Types of Etchants used
• Ferric Chloride
The traditional etchant solution. Ferric chloride
oxidizes copper to soluble copper chloride. Effective but can
be toxic and polluting. Requires safe disposal.
• Ammonium Persulfate
A common alternative etchant that is safer and less
toxic than ferric chloride. Ammonium persulfate oxidizes
copper similarly. Also needs proper disposal.
• Cupric Chloride
Regenerative copper chloride etchant that can be recovered
and reused. Less waste compared to ferric or ammonium
persulfates.
• Hydrogen Peroxide/Acid
Etchant mixtures with hydrogen peroxide and acids like
sulfuric or hydrochloric. More powerful but require safety
precautions.

• Sodium Persulfate
Safer sodium-based etchant, although slower etching than
ammonium persulfate. Produces less fumes and waste.
ETCHING METHODS
• Tank Immersion
The most common method. PCBs are immersed in a tank of
etchant solution and agitated. Allows high volume PCB
etching.
 • Brush Etching
Etchant is brushed onto copper surfaces to be dissolved.
Lower volume, more manual etching process.
• Spray Etching
Etchant solution is sprayed onto boards. This directs the
etching only where needed. Fast and efficient.
• Vertical Etching
Boards are held vertically and etched by pumping etchant
over the surfaces. This uses less solution volume and speeds
etching.
Key process parameters
• Etchant Concentration - The right concentration of
chemicals in the etchant solution ensures proper etch
rates. This must be monitored and maintained.
• Temperature - Elevated temperatures accelerate
etching but also deplete the etchant more quickly.
Proper temperature control is necessary.
• Agitation - Constant agitation of the boards and
etchant ensures fresh etchant reaches the copper
surfaces. This prevents depletion.
• Etch Rate - The speed of etching affects undercutting
of the resist and cut-out of pad areas. Faster is not
always better.
• Resist Quality - Pinholes, thin spots, or other defects
in the resist can lead to unwanted copper etching. The
resist must fully protect the traces.
 • Etch Consistency - Uneven etching results in irregular
or defective PCB traces. Parameters must be
controlled to achieve uniform etching.
Etching defects
• Undercutting - The etchant eats under the resist,
making the traces thinner and causing shorts or opens.
This is prevented by optimizing etch rates and
agitation.
• Overhanging Copper - Copper 'shelves' remain after
etching due to depleted etchant. More agitation and
fresher etchant reduces this.
• Pitting - Small pits form in copper traces from
impurities or air bubbles in the etchant. This can
degrade conductivity. Proper filtration and agitation
helps.
• Resist Damage - If the resist is imperfect, pinholes or
cracks allow copper etching in unwanted areas. High
quality resist printing is important.
• Over-Etching - Letting the etching continue too long
starts removing desired copper traces. The process
time must be controlled carefully.
• Missing Copper - Areas of desired copper traces are
erroneously etched away due to resist defects. This
can ruin PCBs.
Etching safety
• Use etchant-resistant containers and equipment only.
Many etchants corrode metals.
• Wear gloves, aprons, and eye protection when
handling etchants. Avoid direct skin contact.
 • Work in a well-ventilated area to prevent buildup of
chemical fumes.
• Dispose of used etchant properly according to local
environmental regulations. NEVER pour it down the
drain.
• Read safety datasheets and follow all recommended
precautions for the etchants being used.
• Label all etchant solutions clearly and store them
securely in closed containers when not in use.

PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD LAYOUT

CONSIDERATIONS
What is a PCB Layout?
Generally, a layout denotes the way the parts of a specific
item are laid out or arranged. In the same vein, a PCB
layout is a broad term indicating several processes
required in designing a PCB. It involves making traces,
mounting holes cutouts, labeling, and specifying component
locations, among others.
Basic PCB Design Steps
1.Concept - This initial phase involves defining the functions
the PCB will have and perform, its features, its
interconnection with other circuits, its placement in the final
product and its approximate dimensions. Also, consider the
approximate temperature range the board will operate in and
any other environmental concerns.

2.Schematic
The next phase is to draw the circuit schematic based on the
final concept. This diagram includes all the information
needed for the electrical components of the board to function
appropriately, as well as details such as component names,
value, rating and manufacturer part numbers.
3. Board-Level Block Diagram
Next, you will complete a board-level block diagram, a
drawing describing the final dimensions of the PCB. Mark
areas designated for each block, sections of components that
are connected for electrical reasons or because of constraints.
Keeping related components together will enable you to keep
your traces short.
4. Component Placement
The next step is component placement, which determines
where you will place each element on the board. Often, you
may go through several rounds of refining component
placement.
Basic PCB Design Steps
Once you draw the board’s shape, place the components on
it and group them into different parts. For instance, you can
divide the board into these regions.
• Analog circuits
• Digital circuits
 • Power circuits
• Low-frequency circuits
• Connectors

Basic PCB Design Steps

After making these divisions, place the fixed-location parts,
such as connectors, followed by primary components like
CPUs and memory chips.
The last step is to place the auxiliary components that support
the primary ones. They include resistors, decoupling
capacitors, oscillators, etc.
Here are some placement guidelines to help you in this step.
• Position high-speed ICs near connectors
• Allow test point access
• Distribute heat sources to eliminate hotspots
• Consider the requirements for rework

5. Routing
When it comes to signal routing and the placement of
components, all you need to know is the direction in which
the signal and currents will flow on your PCB. You need to
keep your digital signals as far away from the analog signals
as possible. Analog circuits tend to be sensitive to digital
signals, which can introduce noise on the analog side.
6. Testing
After you’ve completed the design, you should conduct a
series of tests to ensure it meets all your needs. If it does, the
design is complete. If not, you will go back to the phases
where you need to make adjustments.