A program cable for Yaesu FT-7800, FT-7900, FT-8100, FT-8800, and FT-8900 using

CP2102 – with schematic

Notice: This is perhaps NOT the proper FT-7900 cable. If I connect it to the radio and I switch
the transceiver on, the radio transmits. But if I switch the transceiver on while pressing the keys
to enter the setup mode, so to go to setup mode at power on immediately, the cable works
perfectly.

In one of his articles, VK4GHZ described how to make an adapter between the Icom CV-I USB
interface and the Yaesu FT-7800R and other transceivers adopting the same program cable.

Here is the schematic of a Yaesu FT-7800-7900-8100-8800-8900 program cable using a simple and
cheap CP2102.

The connector to use is a 6 pin mini DIN.

The VK4GHZ picture shows beautifully how to solder the data and the gnd lead
to the mini-din plug (view from the solderings side).
One specimen of cable built exactly as specified worked perfectly and allowed CHIRP to read from
and to write to a FT-8900R without any trouble.
Another specimen built using a 22 K resistor instead of the proper 10 K one, when plugged to the
radio let it transmit. Nevertheless, if the radio was off when the cable was plugged in and then it was
switched on holding the key to enter in the clone mode, the undesired transmission did not happen,
and the data were read and written perfectly. So, the cable works also using other resistors than 10K,
but with a flaw requiring attention.

This project may be realized also using a Prolific 2303, of course running the risk of encountering
drivers troubles with latest releases of Windows.

Please let me know if this cable works also with other transceivers than those mentioned above.
 Build your Own Programming Cable

Leixen VV-808 / VV898 (S) (E)

by John 'Miklor' K3NXU

A simple project with great results.

The heart of the project is a $2
CP2102 USB to TTL UART board.

Let's See...

You purchased a Leixen Mobile and now your ready to start programming it using software. You
now need to make a simple choice. Buy or Build. Here's a simple project that will not only save
you a few dollars, but give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.

You've probably heard the horror stories of the cables with the 'counterfeit' chips that require
backdated drivers, but that doesn't apply here. The solution is to start using a USB to TTL UART
board with a CP2102 SiLabs chip. These boards are available on eBay for around $2.

Component list consists of either:

or
- CP2102 USB UART Board - CP2102 USB UART Board
- 3' piece of 3 conductor wire - 3' Cat-5 Network Patch Cable
- RJ-45 modular plug (8 pin) with 8 pin RJ-45 modular plug

Tools required: Tools required:

- RJ45 Modular Plug Crimp tool - Soldering pencil
- Soldering pencil

The Project

Let's first take a look at a typical CP2102 board. It's pretty straight forward. USB on one end, a
few connection points on the other.

The output terminals we are interested in are:

TXD - Transmit Data
RXD - Receive Data
GND - Ground

Note 1: (Connection Pins)

Most boards have pins on the back requiring small connectors. You can either remove the pins or
solder to them. Whatever floats your boat. I personally prefer removing the pins and soldering
directly to the board.
Now it's just a matter of connecting to the proper pins in the RJ45 plug.

The diagram below shows the required pin positions. Pin 6 is always the Ground connection.

Note 2: (Labels Reversed)

Some boards may have the TxD and RxD labeled in reverse. If it doesn't work the first time, don't
panic. Just reverse the two wires on the CP2102 board. No damage has been done.

Cat-5 Network Patch Cable

If you don't have the connector or a crimping tool, another possibility is to acquire a standard 3'
Cat-5 network patch cable, and remove the connector from one end. (or as Eric, G1SLP did, buy a
6' cable, cut it in half and make two).

Trace the wires by color and continuity from pins 2, 5, 6 of the RJ-45 plug, and connect them to
the appropriate pins on the CP2102 board.

If you use the CP2102 in the metal case shown below, you can solder directly to the pins.

Driver
When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load the
new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.

If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine.

That's it...

Three wires from the board, three wires to the connector. The key is knowing proper pin
assignment.

Cosmetic Retrofit
Now, let's say you want to get fancy. Maybe you have an old programming cable in the drawer
that doesn't work, but like most hobbyists, you just couldn't bring yourself to throw it away. Or,
maybe to make it cosmetically pleasing, you decide to buy one of the $3 specials, just to have the
USB case and wire. Here's how you would mount it.

Let's start with that original cable.

Take a small screw driver and carefully pry the case open from the back where the cable
enters. Once the back is opened, pry the case open evenly around the sides.

It should only be snapped together.

Unsolder the 3 wires connected to the old board.
GND is Black, TxD is Red, RxD is White or Yellow.

Clip off the old connector and insert the wires in the RJ45 shown above.

Retrofit

Due to the slightly larger size, the board shown above may require a Dremel tool, X-Acto knife,
Glue, and some patience, but it can be done.

For a dollar more, I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It still
has the needed GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter, narrower, and fits with no issue. It may
cost a few pennies more, but well worth it.

Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.

eBay

You can find the same boards in a metal case.

Inside the metal housing. Look familiar?

What's the Advantage

- First and Foremost, it works. Now you can program using software.

- Next, it only cost around $2. Add $3 for a cable and case

- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and tell them they can
build their own, just as you did.

I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several and
never had a failure.

Build your Own 3 PIN Programming Cable

BTech, QYT, etc Mobile

 by John 'Miklor' K3NXU

A simple project with great results.

The heart of the project is a $2
CP2102 USB to TTL UART board.

Let's See...

You purchased a BTech or QYT Mobile and now your ready to start programming it using
software. You now need to make a simple choice. Buy or Build. Here's a simple project that
will not only save you a few dollars, but give you the satisfaction of building it yourself.

This project uses a USB to TTL UART board with a CP2102 SiLabs chip. These boards are
available on Amazon and eBay for around $2.

The component list is very basic:

- CP2102 USB UART Board
- 3' piece of 3 conductor wire
- 3 Pin stereo plug
- (2) 10K ohm resistors

The Project

Let's first take a look at a typical CP2102 board. It's pretty straight forward. USB on one end,
a few connection points on the other.

The output terminals we are interested in are:

TXD - Transmit Data
RXD - Receive Data
GND - Ground

Note 1: (Connection Pins)

Most boards have pins on the back requiring small connectors. You can either remove the
pins or solder to them. Whatever floats your boat. I personally prefer removing the pins and
soldering directly to the board.

Now it's just a matter of connecting to the proper pins to the 3 Pin Stereo plug.

Note 2: (Labels Reversed)

Some boards may have the TxD and RxD labeled in reverse. If it doesn't work the first time,
don't panic. Just reverse the two wires on the CP2102 board. No damage has been done.
Adding 2 resistors

Ezequiel Welcomme LU9MWE (Argentina) brought to my attention that some models only
work with the original cable (Chinese). Using an aftermarket or homemade cable may result
in the radio cycling or pulsing when trying to communicate with the software. (Pulsing
VIDEO).

The solution is to place a reference to GND in the communication lines. This is done by
adding two 10K ohm resistors. One between GND - RX, and the other between GND - TX.

click to enlarge

Driver

When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load
the new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.

If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine.

That's it...

Three wires from the board, three wires to the connector. The key is knowing proper pin
assignment.

Cosmetic Retrofit
Now, let's say you want to get fancy. Maybe you have an old programming cable in the
drawer that doesn't work, but like most hobbyists, you just couldn't bring yourself to throw it
away. Or, maybe to make it cosmetically pleasing, you decide to buy one of the $3 specials,
just to have the USB case and wire. Here's how you would mount it.

Let's start with that original cable.

Take a small screw driver and carefully pry the case open from the back where the cable
enters. Once the back is opened, pry the case open evenly around the sides.

It should only be snapped together.

Unsolder the 3 wires connected to the old board.

GND is Black, TxD is Red, RxD is White or Yellow.

Clip off the old connector and insert the wires in the RJ45 shown above.

Retrofit

Due to the slightly larger size, the board shown above may require a Dremel tool, XActo
knife, Glue, and some patience, but it can be done.

For a dollar more, I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It
still has the needed GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter, narrower, and fits with no issue.
It may cost a few pennies more, but well worth it.

Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.
Amazon eBay

You can find the same boards in a metal case.

Inside the metal housing. Look familiar?

What's the Advantage

- First and Foremost, it works. Now you can program using software.

- Next, it only cost around $2. Add $3 for a cable and case

- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and tell them they
can build their own, just as you did.

I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several
and never had a failure.

Build your Own Programming Cable

for Baofeng, Kenwood, Wouxun

 by John 'Miklor' K3NXU

Frustrated with that generic programming cable?

This $2 solution might just be your ticket to sanity.

Let's See...

You purchased a radio and programming cable, loaded the software, and that's as far as you've
gotten. You're fighting with error messages:
- Radio did not respond
- Could not open COM port
- Run Time Error
and Windows (TM) 10 keeps changing your drivers.

Now you do what many owners do. Put the radio in the drawer to be worked on later. This is like
buying a rollaway treadmill and putting it in the closet until the next time you want to exercise.
(NOT gonna happen)

But wait, yours has the company name and logo right on the cable.
- It doesn't matter. Keep reading.

There are a few options available, such as an FTDI cable. It's truly Plug 'n Play, and costs about
$20.

But here's a project that just might solve the issue for around $2. All you need is a small flat blade
screwdriver, a soldering pencil, and a CP2102 board.

CP2102

The CP2102 is a USB to TTL UART chip. What?

Long story short... It's the same thing that's in your current cable now, except these work.

CP2102 boards can be found on eBay for around $2 and also on Amazon.

Some CP2102 are 5 pin while others are 6 pin. Either will work, but the 5 pin boards are slightly
narrower and may fit better.

Here's How

Let's start with that original cable.

Take a small screw driver and carefully pry the case open from the back where the cable
enters. Once the back is opened, pry the case open evenly around the sides.

It should only be snapped together.

Unsolder the 3 wires connected to the board.

GND is Black, TX is Red, RX is White

Solder the 3 wires to the corresponding terminals on the new board.

Note 1: (Labels Reversed)

Some boards may have the TxD and RxD labeled in reverse. If it doesn't work the first time,
reverse the two wires. No damage has been done.

Note 2: (Connection Pins)

Most boards have pins on the back requiring small connectors. You can either remove the pins or
solder to them. Whatever floats your boat. I personally prefer removing the pins and soldering
directly to the board.
Retrofit

You will more than likely want to insert the new board inside the original plastic housing. Using
the board shown above, it may require a Dremel tool, X-Acto knife, Glue, and some patience, but
it can be done.

I very highly recommend using the 5 pin CP2102 board shown below. It still has the needed
GND, TxD and RxD, but is a bit shorter and fits with no issue. It may cost a few pennies more,
but well worth it.

Some come protected with a piece of clear heat shrink over the board so you can see the cool
blinking lights. This plastic can easily be removed.

Amazon eBay

For a dollar or so more, you can find the same boards in a metal case.

Inside the metal housing. Look familiar?

Driver

When you insert the new board into the USB port, give Windows a chance to find and load the
new driver. This should take about 30 seconds. When it says Driver Found, you're done.
If the driver is labeled CH340 instead of CP210x in Device Manager, that's not a problem. Both
chips are designed to do the same thing.

If Windows is setup to block automatic updates, the SiLabs drivers can be found at SiLabs. All
drivers seem to work fine. The CH340 driver can be found at ChipHead.

But I don't have a Cable

If you don't have a generic cable, you can use 2.5 and 3.5mm stereo jacks. Here are the pin outs,
and what Jim's (KC9HI) cable looks like.

Note 3: (Works with a variety of cables)

The example above shows a Kenwood style 2 pin plug, but this will also work with cables using
an RJ-45 connector, such as those for a Leixen, etc. The same 3 wires are used. (GND, TxD and
RxD)

Take it one step further

If you like to see the lights blinking, Bill Frick took the project one step further by adding plastic
lenses to the case. Here's are pictorial of his creation.

What's the Advantage

- First and Foremost, it works. Take the radio out of the drawer, program it and have some fun.
- Next, it only cost around $2 to save the generic cable from the trash.
- Very Important - Bragging Rights. Now, when you go to a club meeting and someone says they
can't get their cable to work, tell them they can build their own, just as you did.

I hope you had fun with this project. It's super simple and very rewarding. I've made several and
never had a failure. Say goodbye to driver issues.

Making a DIY programming cable for the Tait 8105 Radios

I am currently building a project that utilises two Tait 8105 UHF radios. I needed to
upgrade the firmware and configure the radios, but couldn't find a programming lead in
the UK for sensible money. After a bit of research, I managed to build my own using
a FTDI TTL-232RL USB adapter and a DB9 Breakout board.

Disclaimer
The DIY cable worked for me without any issues, however anything DIY increases the
chances of something going wrong. I will not be held responsible if you cook your radios.
If in doubt, please contact an Authorised Tait Service Centre or Dealer.

Required Parts

1. FTDI TTL-232RL USB adapter (see note)

2. DB9 / RS232 Breakout board
3. USB cable, in my case it was Mini USB.
4. Jumper wires to connect the Serial adapter to the breakout board.

Note- This requires a genuine FTDI USB adapter, as the process requires editing the
settings which seems to be impossible on the clones. I purchased mine from Ebay a long
time ago, and it's since disappeared. I believe it's one of these. Unfortunately the
majority on Ebay today seem to be counterfeit clones.

Inverting the FTDI adapter signal

Its possible to invert the serial signal on the FTDI chips using their FT_PROG utility.

You can find the FT_PROG utility on the FTDI website. Its for Windows only, however
there's an untested version for Linux here

Once you have installed tool, plug in the adapter into a PC and open the tool. You should
see the following screen-
Hit F5 on your keyboard to scan for devices. Once your device is found, you should see
the following-
In the Device Tree, click Hardware Specific > Invert RS232 Signals, and check the boxes
for TXD and RXD so it looks like this-

Press Ctrl + P to flash the updated configuration to the FTDI chip. To confirm its worked,
press F5 to refresh the programmer and check that the Invert boxes are still checked. If
they are unchecked, you may have a counterfeit FTDI chip that doesn't correctly save
the settings.

Building the Cable

Use the diagram below to assist you making up the cable. Carefully read the notes
before proceeding.
If you've followed the instructions above, you should now have a functioning
programming cable for the Tait 8105 radios, to use with the programming and calibration
software.

Acknowledgements
Thanks to G8KLC for the hint about inverting the signal!