NZ Denim Ltd.

NZ Denim Ltd
Department of Inspection
1.0 Process Definition

Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejection the final finished

fabric from the bulk. It is an observation process to find out each & every visible fault in
the fabric.

2.0 Process Requirement

2.1 Equipment

Inspection machine with light box & inclined table for better reflection.

2.2 Key Accessories

The Necessary tools or accessories used for the inspection process are given below:

1. Scissors, Blade, Measuring tape, length measuring meter, needle with

forceps, Comb, Pick counter, Pen, Marker, Inspection Sheet, Correction
pen, Calculator, Yellow marker, Scale, G.S.M Cutter, Weighting Balance,
Rubber Plate.
.

2.3 Materials/Chemicals used

The materials used for packing are given below:

i. Polythene (Thickness should be within 0.20 mm to 0.30 mm)

ii. Paper Tube (Length 152 cm outer diameter 6 cm. Indoor diameter 4.4 cm Thickness
0.80 cm & should be strong enough for handling).
iii. Scotch Tape.
iv. P.V.C Tape.
v. NZ Denim Sticker
vi. Premium Sticker.
vii. S.P Sticker.
viii. Fault points Indicate sticker: white Colour -1 point, yellow colour-2 point,
ix. Spot lifter.

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 1

NZ Denim Ltd.

3.0 Safety

i. Smoking is strictly prohibited in the factory premises.

ii. Airtight the packing of the fabric rolls with polythene to protect the dust, dirt water,
or any damage.
iii. Adequate numbers of fire extinguishers are placed in Inspection Area. Floor
personnel are trained & instructed to use it if required.
iv. Do not place fabric stack in front of the electric panel.
v. Follow the safety instructions & guideline while operating the machine.

4.0 Production Procedure

4.1 Operation Stuff

i. Factory Manager
ii. Manager (Inspection)
iii. Production Officer
iv. Operator
v. Asst. Operator
vi. Helper

4.2 Machine Set Up

The machine set up for inspection process is described below:

Machine setup & Parameter Actual Parameter range Machine set value &
Check functionality Check
Guide roller speed (10-40) m/min 10 m/min
Light N/A Artificial day light
Length measuring meter N/A Attached with the fabric &
machine
Automatic cutter knife N/A N/A
Slippage measure roller N/A Observe functionality
Batcher N/A Check the setting of batcher

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 2

NZ Denim Ltd.

4.3 Check list Before Production

4.3.1 Before Inspection

Operator must check following items before starting the inspection operation:

1. Machine parameters are set.

2. Required manpower in available.
3. All the rolls / accessories are available.
4. Fabric is ready for inspection.
5. Special instructions on the process route card.
6. Machine cleaning
7. Fabric handle (Hard/Soft/Normal).

4.3.2 Before Packing

Operator must check the following items before packing of fabric roll.

1. Face side of the fabric is in the inner side of the roll.

2. The end of each roll is stuck with scotch tape in minimum three places.
3. The roll is signed by operator.
4. Both the side of the cover roll are stuck with P.V.C tape.

4.4 Operation Procedure

Operator sets the batcher properly & feeds the fabric by the guide roller. The fabric goes
through a special table where there are arrangement for special lighting to detect faults in
the fabric visually & puts fault Identification sticker in the fabric. After the inspection of
the fabric, it is rolled without any crease or fold & is rolled by polythene paper. The
operator puts the Identification sticker’ on the fabric (i.e. Lt no. Quality colors piece no,
length, usable width, and composition & fault no.)

The fault point is calculated as per the NZ Denim standard.

The goods as well as reject quantities are entered into the MASH, Data Tex Systems with
respective quality codes & then they are transfers to the finished goods store with a
finished goods transfer note.

4.4.1 For each peace the finished fabric inspection form have to be filled up after the
inspection. Here the operator measures the width of each piece & the inspection machine
measures the length. Normally fabric faults are record using 4 point system given below:

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 3

NZ Denim Ltd.

4 Point grading System Table

Fault length Points to be assigned

0 Inch to 3 Inches 1 Point
3 Inches to 6 Inches 2 Points
6 Inches to 9 Inches 3 Points
More Than 9 Inches 4 Points

4.4.2 For the calculation of the point’s level of the inspected fabric the following formulas are
used. The calculated values are entered in the finished fabric inspection form.

i. Area of inspected fabric = (Fabric length in meter x fabric width in meter) square
meter.
ii. Total point per 100 square meter =

Actual Points Counted in Roll x 100

Actual Roll length in meter x Fabric width in meter
= Point / 100 Square yard

Heavy weight Indigo Denim 25 points individual roll but shipment 15 points per 100
square meter.

Light weight Indigo Denim 30 point’s individual roll but shipment 20 points per 100
square meter.

4.5 Product quality check

Operator checks the fabric, finds the intensity & frequency of the faults, writes all the
information in the finished fabric Inspection form & separates the faulty fabric from the
bulk. The operator has to abide by the following instructions to check the product quality.

4.5.1 Table for 4 point grading systems table

Following Table show the four point grading system followed by finished fabric
inspection section at N.Z.

4.5.2 4 Point grading system

1. Stop/ starting mark-4 points.

2. Light white mark – points.
3. Thick/Thin warp & yarn point will be considered according to the fault size.
4. All holes Regardless the size-4 points.(there must be two or more yarn broken at the
same place to be considered as a hole)

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 4

NZ Denim Ltd.

5. Slub

i. 0 to 3’’ = 1 point.
ii. 3 to 6’’ = 2 points.

6. Oil Sots

i. Up to 5 mm diameter =1 point.
ii. Up to 10 mm diameter =2 points.
iii. More than 10 mm diameter =4 points.

We can remove these oil spots by using spot lifter spray.

5. Loose & light warp fault point will be consider according to the fault size.
6. Miss pick/Double Pick = 4 points.
7. Cut Pick/Broken Pick point will be considered according to the fault size.
8. Yarn contamination according to the size.
i. 0.5”= 1 point.
ii. Over 0.5”2 points.
9. Naps = 1 Point.
10. Smash = 1 Point.
11. Naps = 1 Point.
12. Knot = 1 Point.
13. Crease mark
Fabric with dark crease will be rejected, Light crease may be consider.
14. Dirty mark.
(i) Up to 5 mm Diameter = 1 point.
(ii) Up to 10 mm Diameter = 2 points.
(iii) More than mm Diameter = 4 points.

4.5.2.1 Fabric Flagging with sticker

1. Large 4 points major faults in either warp & weft should be flagged with red marked
sticker in the right hand side of the fabric.
2. Holes, stains & soils should be flagged.
3. More than 2 points defects should be flagged.
4. Flags should be clearly visible when the fabric is spread face up of face down.
5. Flags should not be detached from the fabric during transportation & handling by any
means:

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 5

NZ Denim Ltd.

4.5.3 Splicing

The rolls can be composed of maximum two splices & should not be less than 18 meter.
The maximum roll size various types of fabric is:

(i) Heavy Indigo Denim -100 Yds.

(ii) Medium Indigo Denim -150 Yds.
(iii) Light Indigo Denim -250Yds.

4.5.4 Bows, Bias & Skew

Up to 150 cm width of fabric & Maximum of shipment average + -1% bows, Bias &
Skew is acceptable.

4.5.5 Characteristics of fabric rolls

(i) Rolls with curled rolled, damaged or loose salvage are not acceptable.
(ii) Total yardage of rolls must be correct.
(iii) The face side of the fabric mist be rolled inside of the fabric roll to protect it from
dirt & dust.
4.6 Rejection Range of the Fabric
(i) Any roll having a running or repeating defect through more than three
continuously shall be rejected regardless of point count.
(ii) Big tear will be rejected.
(iii) Dark crease will be rejected.
(iv) Fabric more than 1” short in width will be rejected. If the shrinkage is within the
range then the fabric should be returned to finishing department for correction of
width.
(v) Hard Stop mark, Heavy white mark, double pick & full width cut pick & miss
will be rejected.
(vi) Bid size loose warp & tight warp & wrong drawing will be rejected.
(vii) Dyeing fault fabric will be rejected.

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 6

NZ Denim Ltd.

Q.C Sample test

1. Length wise & width wise shrinkage test.

2. Skew check.

3. Weight check.

4. Construction check.

5. Fabric width check.

6. Dyeing shade check.

7. Tailing effect & listing effect check.

8. For the checking of any knot or double yarn, whether it originates from the spinning or
weaving section.

9. Any spot checking, either it is removable or not.

4.7 Response to Equipment faults

The response to equipment faults for the inspection process are discussed below:

Faults Response
Motor disturbance, switch problem & problem Electrical engineer should be called.
of lighting.
Bearing problem, meter problem & any Mechanical engineer should be called.
maintenance problem.
Compressed air problem, air conditioning Utility engineer should be called.
problem or any other utility problem.

4.8 Machine/Area cleaning

The operator is responsible for maintaining the overall cleanliness of the Inspection machine
so that the fabric remains clean during the inspection process. The floor is cleaned by the
cleaner several times a day or whenever necessary.

4.9 Forms & Documents used.

The necessary forms & documents for the inspection process are listed below:
1. Process Route card.
2. Finished fabric Inspection form.
3. Finished goods Transfer sheet.
4. Weight & shrinkage count report.

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 7

NZ Denim Ltd.

5. Identification sticker.
6. S.P & Reject transfer form.
7. Daily production report from.
8. Machine wise production report form.

5.1 Document flow

Fabric is sent from production to Inspection accompanied by a process route card.

Inspection department fills out the finished fabric Inspection from that contains
information regarding Lot number, quality, Batch, Shade, Length in yards, faults, points
etc.

Once inspection is completed then the inspected fabric rolls area packed for transferring
to the finished goods stores. The fabric inspection report is maintained to record weaving
faults yarn faults & dyeing faults. The concerned operator of finished fabric Inspection
section signs of it & sends to the Q.C department for internal use. At the time of
transferring finished fabric to the inspection department, Production raises a finished
goods transfer sheet.

After inspection process authorized staff in store signs the finished goods transfer sheet
as having accepted the fabric. There are two copies of this documents, one is for
inspection & the other is for store. Goods rejected by inspection are also sent to store on
the same document & are entered into stock with a “Reject’’ Quality code. Identification
sticker is attached with every fabric roll that includes the lot number, quality, shade,
fabric length, composition, piece number, fault, points etc.

5.2 Shade/ Colour continuity

During Finished Fabric Inspection the operator should cut small pieces like 14" from
each machine after complete a roll. From all these swatches the Shade Batch Q.C persons
make a blanket to check the shade, color, G.S.M and shrinkage continuity after Enzyme
bleach washes or matching wash with buyer approved wash standard. This work is done
in every lot. After Confirmation of all above tasks, we prepare for deliver the goods.

5.3 Attachment

Example of all application forms & documents are attached.

Document Owner: Inspection Department, NZ Denim Ltd. 8