NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI

SEWN PRODUCTS MACHINERY

AND EQUIPMENTS-2
END-TERM ASSIGNMENT
WOMEN'S CASUAL SHIRT

SUBMITTED BY:
GITIKA TAYAL (BFT/19/79)
PRAKRITI GORAI (BFT/19/75)
 SHIRT DETAILS
COMPANY: DNMX
FABRIC: 100% COTTON
TYPE OF FABRIC: WOVEN
TYPE OF WEAVE: TWILL WEAVE
DYEING STAGE: YARN-DYED
GSM OF THE FABRIC:150-180
EPI*PPI: 108*52
SLEEVE: FULL SLEEVE
CUFFS: SINGLE-BUTTON SQUARE CUFFS
WASH CARE: MACHINE WASH
COLOUR: WHITE AND BLACK
PATTERN: CHECKS
SIZE: M
HEMLINE: CURVED

Manufacturing Process
Shirt production is an organized activity consisting of sequential processes
such as laying, marking, cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and
packaging. This is a process of converting raw materials into finished
products. It will be difficult to maintain the industry if production is not, up
to the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not
properly carried out.
It many processing steps, beginning with the idea or design concept and
ending with a finished product. Apparel manufacturing process involves
Fabric Selection and Inspection, Patternmaking, Grading, Marking,
Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and
Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc.
WOMEN'S CASUAL SHIRT
IMAGES

FRONT BACK

CUFF COLLAR
 COMPONENTS OF
WOMEN'S CASUAL SHIRT

Front panel
Back panel
Back yoke
Patch pocket
Collar
Collar stand
Sleeve
Cuff
Front placket
 PRE-PRODUCTION
PROCESSES

Material/Fabric Inspection
Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid
rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection
is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand
or feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimise the
rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults.

Fabric Inspection System

4-Point fabric inspection system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This
test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics
from a visual inspection.

4-Point System
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of
the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can be in
either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and make
sure to select at least one roll of each colour way.

Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria is
generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are
considered "seconds".
The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

Fabric Inspection System

Fabric inspection is usually done on a fabric inspection machine. These machines are designed so
that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under adequate light and rerolled
as they leave the table.
Defects can be seen readily with these machines, as the inspector has a very good view of the
fabric and the fabric need not be reversed to detect defects. These machines are power driven or
the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table. The defects are located, marked and
recorded on an inspection form. These machines are also equipped to accurately measure the
length of each roll of fabric as well as monitor the width of the fabric. The variation in width of
fabric can result in a higher cost of manufacturing for basic garments since profit margin for
these garment manufacturers is usually lower than that for fashion garment manufacturers and
therefore, maximum fabric utilisation is vital.

SERCON FABRIC INSPECTION

MACHINE MODEL: DK-2
Fabric inspection machine DK-2 enables us to rewind, inspect and measure the length of fabric
materials. Possibility of rewinding fabric from flat-fold to roll or roll to roll. Equipment widely
used by the manufacturers, where high quality production forces manufacturer to inspect
delivered fabrics before they are delivered to cutting room.
FEATURES:
1. Working mode from flat-fold to roll and
roll to roll.
2. Easy operation, end of roll photocell
sensor.
3. Automatic edge control system.
4. Optionally the machine can be delivered
with barcode labeling system for easy
labeling of material defects, generation and
printing of reports and statistical printouts.
5. Optionally machine can be delivered with
weight recorder, in connection with length
measurement enables to easily calculate the
specific gravity weight of the fabric
material.
SPECIFICATIONS OF DK-2 FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE:
Maximum width of roll – 180cm
Maximum diameter of roll – 450mm
Maximum weight of roll – 150kg
Maximum rewinding speed - 60 m /min. (adjustable)
Type of fabric – all fabrics
Angle slope of casing - 45–60 degrees to the horizontal.
Overhead CWF lighting - > CWF 1000 LUX
Weight of the machine – 500kg
Machine dimensions - H. 220cm, L. 280cm, W. 160cm
Power requirements / power consumption - 3x380V+N/50Hz/3kW

Spreading/ Laying
Fabric spreading is a very important part of the production process because it is basic for
obtaining a high-quality final product.
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric into long, wide tables in preparation for
cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of
garments desired and the fabric thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine.
Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 200 layers of fabric may be cut at one
time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.
Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layers or piles of specified
length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum cutting width is the usable
fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks caused by stencil marks. Fabric utilization is the
amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric area.

Types of Lay Plan

Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces, for example, one side left or right.
Generally used for tubular fabrics.
Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open
width fabrics.
Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the
consumption of fabric is higher.
We’ll use Whole Garment Lay for the production of casual shirt as we are using an open width
fabric and also it includes full garment pieces as well as half of garment pieces.

Types of Lay
Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples
A multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
Stepped Lay is multiple lays in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used
for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.
For the laying of the fabric we’ll use multiple ply laying as it will be more efficient for shirt making
and have better utilization of fabric.
 Forms of Spreading
Nap one way, Face up
Nap one way, Face to face
Nap either way, Face up
Nap either way, Face to face
Since the fabric of the shirt is checked and symmetrical, Nap one way and nap either way face up
are the best way of spreading in this case

Spreading Machine
Mainly, three types of spreading machines are used in any garment manufacturing company:
Manual Spreading machine
Semi Automatic spreading Machine
Fully Automatic spreading machine

For manufacturing of shirt, although both semi automatic as well as fully automatic spreading
machines can be used; for this casual shirt fabric we will use fully automatic spreading machine;
INVENSPREAD MN1 AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE

INVENSPREAD MN1 AUTOMATIC

SPREADING MACHINE

FEATURES:
1. Automatic fabric edge control system
2. Dynamic control of tension of the material
3. Tensionless spreading system with end of material pressing bar or without
4. Automatic cutoff of each layer of spread material
5. Special device for zig-zac spreading with two press bars at both ends, standard feature
6. On demand, the machine may be delivered with special equipment enabling to spread folded
material (from pallet) or tubular knitwear material
7. Possibility of work in manual and automatic mode
 SPECIFICATIONS
1. Max spreading height with cutting unit (cutting of subsequent
layers) – 250mm
2. Max spreading height with zig-zag unit – 220mm
3. Fabric type - Thin fabrics, stretchy and difficult to work with,
through heavy materials like for example jeans material
4. Max spreading height with tubular unit – 200mm
5. Max working width – from 160 to 240cm
6. Max diameter of fabric roll – 450mm
7. Max weight of roll – 120kg
8. Max spreading speed – 100m/min
9. Voltage and power – 2,5kW/ 220-240V

Pattern and Marker Making

In factories where hundreds of garments are made for the same size and same measurement,
pattern is essential. Sample shirts are made first to check that patterns are made correctly. As
factories need to make shirts for different sizes, pattern grading is done and patterns are made for
all sizes. Pattern grading can be done using the CAD system.

Fabric is the major cost component in a garment. So, before cutting marker making is done wisely
to increase fabric utilization. Marker making and cutting can be done using a computer controlled
machine. Marker width is taken as the minimum fabric width and the length of the marker
depends on how many sizes of patterns are used for making the pattern. Some other factors are
involved with marker length:
How many garments will be made with one lay of fabric.
The length of the cutting table.
Production planning, etc.

A marker and fabric lay/spread is shown in figure.

MARKER PLANS
There are three different types of marker plan:
1. Nap one way. In this type of marker the garment pieces marked on the fabric lay are in one
direction i.e, the flow of pattern is the same.
2. Nap either way. In this type of marker the garment pieces marked on the fabric lay are not in
any particular direction. They are placed anywhere regardless of the sizes.
3. Nap up and down. In this type of marker the garment pieces marked on the fabric lay in such
a way that a particular size in one direction and the other in opposite direction.

The best marker mode for our fabric would be Nap either way and nap up & down since it has a
symmetric checked pattern. Also these two are the most efficient as there will be minimum
wastage of fabric after cutting.

Cutting
Once fabric is sourced and the pattern is ready to use, cutting of fabric is started. Fabric is laid on
the flat table. Multiple layers (fabric plies) are cut together. Marking of outlines for shirt
components are done by using paper patterns. After marking, fabric is cut using a cutting
machine.
For checks and stripes customers want checks and stripes should match in between shoulder and
sleeve, left front and right front panels, even in side seams. To match checks, garment components
need to cut accordingly.

CUTTING MACHINES
For cutting the parts of casual shirts, various types of cutting machine can be used. List of the
cutting machines is mentioned below:
Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine
Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Round knife Cutting Machine
Band knife Cutting Machine
Die Cutting Machine
Notcher Machine
Drill Machine

Automatic Cutting Machine .

Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine
Laser Cutting Machine
Water Jet Cutting Machine

Cutting machines required for different parts of casual shirt:

1. Straight Knife
APPLICATION:
Front Panel
Back panel
Back yoke
Sleeves
It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99%
cases this knife is used. This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is
straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight
knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency.
It’s suitable for straight line cutting, curve line cutting & for large part cutting. It is used for large
production.

HASHIMA KS-AUV STRAIGHT

KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
FEATURES:
The main parts of this machine are a straight knife, electric
motor, handle, grinder, base plate, stand/ knife holder,
lubricating unit, wheel etc.
Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
A Handle for the cutter to direct the Knife.
Knife guard is attached to the front of the knife.
Sharp & heavy corners can be cut.
Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
Knife cut the fabric very fast due to the high speed of the
motor. That increases the risk of fabric damage.
Straight edge is mostly used in a straight knife.
During cutting, grinding wheel helps to sharp the cutting
knife.
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge.

SPECIFICATIONS: BLADE DETAILS :

1. Knife Bar Stroke: 110 160 210 260 285 (MM) 1. Material: Carbon Steel (Standard)
2. Knife Speed: 2850 RPM 2. Also comes in High-Speed Steel, PTFE Coated, etc
3. Power: 500W 3. Height: 10-33 cm
4. Cutting capacity: 160m/min 4. Width: 1.5-3 cm
5. Voltage: 100-200V 5. Stroke: 2.5-4.5 cm
6. Max Fabric Width: 500-1000 mm, 6. Thickness: 0.5 mm
1000-2000 mm
7. Frequency: 50-60 Hz
8. Motor RPM: 3000 to 4000
9. Machine weight: 14.5Kg
2. Band Knife
APPLICATION:
Collar
Collar stand
Cuff
Pocket
Placket
Band knife is round flexible functional by three or more than three pulley are powered by a high
RPM (revolutions per minute) electric motor. Based on material properties; the speed of knife can
be adjust by machine operator. Small pieces of garments can be easily cut by band knife without
making any technical fault in pieces. Operator required to push the fabric lay through the knife
to complete the cutting operation.

HASHIMA KBK-900S BAND

KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS:
1. Tabletop dimensions: 1200 x 1000 mm
2. Overall dimensions (LxWxH): 1320 x 1200 x 1800 mm
3. Cutting height: 190 mm
4. Band length: 2845 mm
5. Arm length: 500 mm
6. Knife speed: 0-14 m/s
7. Voltage (optional 230 V / 50 Hz): 400 V / 50 Hz
8. Motor Power: 1.1 kW

FEATURES:
1.This type of knife consists of a series of three or more pulleys which are powered by electric
motor.
2. Band knife blade is normally narrower than straight knife.
3. Here, cutting knife is endless in shape and also flexible.
4. Air blower helps the operator to move the fabric lay in various direction.
5. This methods of cutting process as like as saw mill methods.
6. In this band knife methods fabric is movable but the machine is stationary.
7. Automatic grinder used to make sharper the edge of knife during cutting.
8. The band knife machine is a powerful and versatile tool for cutting fabric, leather, cardboard,
upholstery foam, rubber or paper.
9. Adjustable cutting height.
10.Machines are equipped with a mechanical band catcher and the panels are protected with end
switchers
 SEWING PROCESS
The sewing process is the attachment of different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace
there are many operators who perform single operations. All this factor decides what parts of
the garment can be sewn at that station. The sewing section is the most important
department in the apparel industry.
Tailors or sewing operators make shirts using sewing machines. First, the Shirt parts are
made.
Parts making: Collar, Cuff, Pockets, Front part, and Sleeves are made separately.
The main label (Brand labels) is attached inside the back yoke or collar band during part
preparation.

STITCHING ASSEMBLY
Once different parts of a shirt are made, shirt parts are assembled. In the assembly section,
wash the care label attached to the side seam.

In industrial production, shirts are made in sewing lines. In a tailoring shop, a full shirt is
made by one person. There are various options for setting a sewing line for shirt
manufacturing with different line layouts and production methods.

In the assembly line instead of a single piece, shirts are made bundle-wise. And the most
interesting thing is that one operator only sews one operation. 40 to 45 tailors are involved
in making the complete shirt. Different types of sewing machines are used in a sewing line
to make the shirt with consistency in quality and higher speed.

WORKING WAY OF SEWING FLOOR

Product Analysis and set up targets for Line
Here usually find the critical operation of the product by analyzing the product and decide
where need help, which operator works on which operation. After analyzing the product
line target is set for per hour production. Line supervisor monitoring target production
achieving or not.

Set up machine layout on the basis of Target

On the basis of operation layout and target per line, machine layout is set up to ensure
target per hour production.

Line balancing
Line balancing is a tool used for production lines to capacitate the flow line of production.
If the line is not balanced properly, the required target result will not be achieved properly.
Some work have a higher workload, some have a lower load which causes bottlenecks in the
line.

Bundle Input to Line

After ensuring line balancing, bundle-wise cut panel input to line as per pre-determined
manner to workers.

Sewing
Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according to machine layout for
ensuring the right operation is made by the right machine and right operator.

Online Quality check

In this stage, front and back part sewing quality is checked by on-line quality inspector. If
found any defect, send the garment to that operator who sew the defective for repair the
sewing faults.

End line Quality check

Here Full garments of both inside and outside checked properly to ensure the garments is
defect-free. If found any defect, repair that defect by who is responsible for that defect. Here
also count the body to compare if the target is achieved or not.

The body sends to the finishing section

The body sends to the finishing section: After the end line quality inspector, garments are
sent to the finishing section for finishing the body for shipment as per buyer’s
requirements.
OPERATION BREAKDOWN
OF WOMEN'S CASUAL
SHIRT
 SEWING MACHINES USED
SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH MACHINE

APPLICATIONS:
Collar run stitch (top and in part)
Collar outline
Collar band hem
Collar and collar band attach
Collar band
Cuff hem
Cuff outline
Placket Attach to front + placket close
Main label attach to back part
Yoke attach to back part
Shoulder Joint
Shoulder top stitch
Collar joint to body
Collar Closed
Collar to Stitch
Cuff attach to sleeve

A single needle lock stitch machine is called a plain needle sewing machine. A single needle lock
stitch machine is mostly used as an industrial sewing machine. Modern single needle lockstitch
has a thread trimmer that operates at the highest speed of its kind. Lockstitch machine is the
most commonly used sewing machine in the apparel industry, especially in woven garments.

Single Needle Lock Stitch machine or SNLS is used only for lock stitch that is the stitches of Class
300. But it can not produce all the stitches of this class. This machine is widely used in the
apparel industry. This is the only machine by which an entire garment can be stitched.

FEATURES:
Two thread need for a machine, one for needle and another one for bobbin
Needle thread set in the upper side of fabric and bobbin thread set in the lower side of the
fabric in stitch
Stitching type only lock stitch
Less noise, low vibration, no radiation, and environment-friendly
Sewing Shirts, Jackets, Suits, Over-coats, Bed covers, Curtains, Children’s Clothes, Bags,
leather, Wool, Chemical fiber, and Canvas.
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: DDL-7000A
DIRECT DRIVE, FLAT BED, DROP FEED MECHANISM MACHINE
SPECIFICATIONS:
Stitch class: 300
Stitch style: 301
Number of needles: 1
Max. sewing speed: 5,500sti/min
Max. stitch length: 7mm
Presser foot By knee: 13mm
Thread take-up: Link type
Needle bar stroke: 35mm
Weight of the machine head: 34kg
Motor type: Direct drive

DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH MACHINE

APPLICATIONS:

Cuff Top Stitch

Armhole Top Stitch

A double-needle lockstitch machine works on the same principle as the single needle lockstitch
machine by using two needles and two bobbins thus resulting in two parallel rows of lockstitch.
This technique of twin needle sewing is also popularly known as double-needle sewing. The
distance between the two stitch lines depends upon the distance between the two needles on the
needle bar which can be adjusted.

The double-needle lockstitch is the tightest and most secure stitch which makes it a good choice
for stitching the inseam of trousers. It also sews box pockets on safari jackets, light jeans and
pyjamas and Suitable for sewing Shirts, Uniforms, Jeans and Women Underwear.

FEATURES:
Stitches are produced by interlocking.
It has two needles and two bobbins.
Lockstitch sewing machine is very fast
Bobbin, needle bar, and bobbin case are present in this machine
Threads and needle bar are supplied from the cone.
Stitch Class: 300
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: LH-3528A
FLAT BED, NEEDLE FEED MECHANISM MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS:

Stitch style: 301

Number of: 2
Max. sewing speed: 3,000sti/min
Max. stitch length: 5mm
Presser foot By knee: 17mm
Motor type: Direct drive

FEED OF THE ARM MACHINE MACHINE

APPLICATIONS:
Side seam
Under arm

The feed of the arm machine is actually a chain stitch machine for chain stitch designs working
with sewing and stitch. It contains a looper instead of a bobbin. By this machine, a multi-thread
chain stitch can be produced on garments. With this machine, stitch can be produced on heavy
fabrics, like denim or jeans; it has the opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.

Different sizes of needle and thread dresses should be used in this machine depending on the
thickness of fabric, for light thickness fabrics needle size should be lower and for heavy thickness
fabric, a higher needle size should be used.

FEATURES:

A multi-thread chain can be formed by this machine.

It has the opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.
The needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
Its appearance is different on the face and back side.
Adjustable sewing machine sew and stitch.
Sewing machine needle sizes should be well fitted.
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: MS-1261
CHAINSTITCH MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS:

Stitch class: 400

Circumference of the tube at the
needle entry: 190mm
Number of needles: 3
Max. sewing speed: 3,600sti/min
Max. stitch length: 1.4-4.2mm
Presser foot By knee: 10mm
Motor type: Servo

KANSAI PLACKET SEWING MACHINE

FLAT BED, PULLER FEED

APPLICATIONS:
Front placket make and attach

FEATURES:
Stitches are produced by different techniques.
Kansai portable sewing machines have a puller feed mechanism on mid-heavy and heavy-
weight fabric.
Kansai portable sewing machine produces durable and uniform stitches on mid-heavy and
heavy-weight fabrics.
It has multi needles.
Kansai portable sewing machines may be
flatbed or cylinder bed.
Sewing machine repair is simple and easy

SPECIFICATIONS:
Motor: Direct Drive
Max Sewing Speed: 4500 Stitch/min
Power 300 W
Max Stitch Length: 5mm
Needle Bar Stroke: 36.5mm
Number Of Threads: 6
 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional buttons that serve as fasteners
and as decorative buttons.

FEATURES:
They are normally stitched when the garment is finished.
The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses, and other lightweight garments.
The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments such as jackets, overcoats,
etc.
Based on the principle of a lock stitch or chain stitch.
Chain stitched -good appearance and less durability.
Lock stitch -increased life and less attractive appearance than the chain stitch.

COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: LBH-1790
SPECIFICATIONS:
Automatic Grade: Automatic
Max Sewing Speed: 3000-4000 (stitch/min)
Motor: Servo
Power: 550W
Sewing Speed: 4,200sti/min
Size of Cloth Cutting Knife: 6.4~31.8mm
Buttonhole Length: Max. 41mm
Number of Standard Patterns: 31 patterns
Number of Patterns that can be input:
Max. 99 patterns

BUTTON STITCHING MACHINE

Button stitching machine is a special type of machine which is used in garments industries to
attach buttons so it is called button attaching machine. This type of machine works for stitching
shirt buttons in a cycle and so these are also called simple auto machine. The button attaching
machine is closely related to the Button Hole Machine.

FEATURES:
It is a simple automatic m/c.
Button positioning can be automatic.
Sewing is according to the hole in the button & may be cross or parallel.
Automatic feeding of the shirt buttons
Stitch type: lock stitch or chain stitch may be used.
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: LBH-1790
LOCKSTITCH MACHINE
SPECIFICATIONS:
Automation Grade: Automatic
Number Of Stitches: 8,16 and 32 stitches
Max Sewing Speed: 1200-1500 stitch/min
Feed length: 2.5-6.5 mm
Feed length lengthwise feed: 0-6.5 mm
Applicable button: Shank button,
Wrapped-around button, Snap, Label,
Metal button, Stay button (exclusive attachments)
Button size: 10-28mm
The thickness of button: 1.8-3.5mm
Group: Lockstitch
Needle size: 9,11,14,18,21
Thread per inch: Per pressure 54
Seam class: Superimposed

ATTACHMENTS

BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE MACHINE ATTACHMENTS:

Collar band button stitch guild (601): Attachment for without marking buttoning on the
collar band.

Collar tip/point buttonhole stitch guild (603): Attachment for collar point buttonhole.

Collar down button stitch gauge (604): Attachment for button-down collar buttoning. Many
varieties are available for different requirements.

Cuff button stitch guild (605): Attachment for buttoning of cuff without marking.

Button stitch spacing gauge (607): Attachment for button stitch spacing gauge.
HEMMING FOLDER

machine: Single needle lockstitch machine

Purpose: Shirt round bottom and general hemming

P 770

HEMMING PRESSER FOOT - 3/8"

3/8"
SLEEVE ATTACHING FOLDER
Machine: Single needle lock stitch machine
Purpose: It is used for sleeve attaching operation. Output piece seam line diagram is shown in the
image.

SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PRESSER FOOT - 1/4"

SLEEVE ATTACHMENT PRESSER FOOT - 1/4"

SINGLE NEEDLE SHIRT YOKE ATTACHMENT
Machine: Single needle lockstitch machine
Purpose: Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional plies. The bottom ply is then
turned back to form the yoke

SHIRT YOKE ATTACHMENT PRESSER FOOT - 1/32*1/2"

PLAIT FOLDER

Machine: Single needle lockstitch machine

Purpose: It is used on shirt placket

PRESSER FOOT FOR SHIRT PLACKET - 3/4"

 SINGLE NEEDLE SHOULDER TOP STITCH ATTACHMENT

Machine: Single needle lockstitch machine

Purpose:
Used for the shoulder attach, attach yoke to the shirt front.
Produces a consistent stitch margin.

F-211

PRESSER FOOT FOR SHOULDER TOP STITCH ATTACHMENT - 1/32*5/16"

CUFF SETTER FOLDER
MACHINE: Single needle lockstitch machine
PURPOSE: Attach cuff to the sleeve

COLLAR ATTACHMENT PRESSER FOOT - 1/32"

MACHINE: Single needle lockstitch machine
PURPOSE: attach the collar
RIGHT COMPENSATED PRESSER FOOT - 1/16"
Machine: Single needle lockstitch machine
Purpose:
Attaching pocket
Attaching label
Sleeve placket opening

1/16"

ALL -PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT

The all-purpose sewing foot as the name indicates can be used for any type of sewing. It is most
often used in straight single needle machines. It is the most basic of sewing foot and does not
include any work aids for easing of tasks.
KANSAI SPECIAL PRESSER FOOT:

BUTTON STITCH FOOT

Button stitch foot is used to easily attach buttons whether they are 2 hole or 4 hole buttons. It
holds the button securely in place while a zigzag stitch is used to attach the button. If the
machine has a drop feed lever lower the feed dogs, if not use a feed dog cover plate over the feed
dog or simply put the stitch length to zero.
 ELEMENTS OF SEWING
SECTION
SEWING THREADS:

FOR STITCHING
Material - cotton-polyester thread is used
Thread size - 24- 30 tex
Thread consumption - Approximate thread consumption is 120 meters.
Thread Weights for stitching - Match the size of the thread to your project fabric and/or the
application. For most fabrics, an all-purpose thread is good. For lightweight fabrics consider
using 70-weight cotton-polyester thread.

FOR BUTTON AND BUTTON HOLE

Threads:
Coats has developed ‘Secura’ fusible thread, especially for button attachment. It is available
in different counts for different needs.

Thread consumption for button attachment:

For 2-hole button approximately 0.30 meters. (14 stitches)
For 4-hole button approximately 0.60 meters. (24 stitches)
Thread consumption for one standard buttonhole is approximately 0.60 meters to 01 meters
depending on stitch density.

NEEDLE:

FOR STITCHING
Needle size: 14
Needle point: Sharp

NEEDLES FOR BUTTON AND BUTTON HOLE

Commonly used needle system for buttoning machine is TQ X 1 and TQ X 7. For buttonhole
DP X 5 is a universal system of needle. Frequent problems due to needles.
Groz – Beckert RG POINT needle reduces these entire problems and helps to improve
button-sewing quality. The RG POINT, with its peculiar ball shape tip, has proven superior
for multipurpose use. This can be use on soft fabric like knits as well as label tacking through
button sewing machines on heavy fabric.
STU, STUB, etc. are the needle point system from other needle companies for similar nature
of work.
 POST PRODUCTION
PROCESS

WASHING:
For cleaning products need to be washed, so that any spots or germs are removed and products are
shown shining.

GARMENT WASH:
Garment wash consists of washing garments in hot water with adequate detergent and softener,
rinse with plain water and dry in a tumble dryer until it is 100% dry. Some sodium is added to lend
the garment a prominent washed look. Water temperature, the proportion of components of wash is
adjusted as per the requirement of wash and types of fabric; the garment is made of.

The softener makes the fiber soft and tumble-drying makes the fabric fluffier. An expert technician
can handle washing in an expedient way to solve many problems arising out during washing.
Washing can also affect different garment parts differently. Shell fabric may be solid color while
pocket maybe a white pocketing piece. After washing, it may appear that pocketing piece has been
stained.

It may happen because maybe too much softener has been used or the fabric bleeding color is about
weak color quality. Though softener makes the fiber soft, it also breaks the dye loose and may stain
the fabric. Too much use of softeners makes the fabric waxy. So, one should cut a balance in using
softener and other components in the regular wash. In such cases, the garment should be washed
with less softener and check if the staining problem is getting rid of or eliminated.

FRONT LOADING WASHING MACHINE

The machine which can be loaded from front side is called front-loading machine. This is a
computerized machine and also a modern washing machine. This machine is automatically
controlled. It has also a good operating system. Dyeing facilities are also good. This machine also has
some disadvantages like rpm problem, not user friendly compared with belly machine, bleaching
process is very critical, parts are not available etc.

Washing time: 20 minutes

Product Specification
Capacity: 30 KG TO 500 kg
Model: FLSR2
Loading Type: Front Loading
Brand: SRE
Inner drum material: SS 304 L or 316 L
Drive motor: 2 hp
Inner drum volume(ltrs): 160
Inner drum diameter(mm): 720
Inner drum length(mm): 400
Washer speed(rpm): 40
Drive motor(hp): 2

HYDRO EXTRACTOR

A hydro extractor is a machine used in the textile processing industry. The wet material is placed
in the extractor, which has perforated metal walls, usually stainless steel. The inner drum rotates
at a high speed to spray out the water inside. The use of a hydrogenation extractor greatly reduces
the energy required to dry any material. Hydro extractors usually work by centrifugal force to
generate high gravity and increase the extraction rate of water. Therefore, the water is separated
and the product is obtained in a dry form. About 70-80 percent of water is removed by this
process.

The advantages and characteristics of hydro extractor

(1)Adaptability: Manual or pneumatic opening, Various basket designs: special perforations, filter
media, modified sizes, separated baskets, fan-shaped openings for processing tubes.
(2)performance: When loading and unloading, the
basket rotates slowly to reduce the stretching of large
and large fabrics.
(3)Reliable and robust: Various building materials: mild
steel, stainless steel.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Capacity: 60 kg
Model: HSR3
Inner basket volume: 270 ltr
Inner basket diameter: 915 mm
Inner basket height: 406 mm
Inner basket speed: 1000 rpm
TUMBLE DRY:

1. In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not perforated)
cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying. The drum is turned for 20 min
there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so more tumbling time
is allowed. This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of
chemicals. After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70°C to 10—20 % pick
up moisture content. The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150—
160°C for 8 -10 min.
2. Important features: - MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and
1:1 for those weighing more than 600 gm. Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min. Tumble
rotation speed 20-30 rpm. Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70°C. Moisture
retention after drying should be 10-12%.
3. Maximum time: 30-35 minutes

SPECIFICATION:
Model: GZZ/GDZ-15
Capacity: 30
Drum (DxL)mm: 780 x 650
Work Cycle Time (mins): 15
Motor Power (Kw): 0.55
Drum Speed (RPM): 45
Electric Heater (Kw) Elec.Heating: 14.4
Steam Pressure (Mpa): 0.5-0.6
Steam Consumption/Cycle (Kg): 18
Dimension (mm): 1150 x 870 x 1450
Weight (Kg): 310

PRESSING
Generally, pressing or ironing is done in combination with heat, pressure and moisture. With the
help of this process, fibers, yarns and fabrics are reformed in the wanted shapes as per the desire of
the designer. The system of application of heat, pressure and moisture for the purpose of pressing
depends on the garment pressing equipment and methods.

Garments may of various types and various types of pressing are given in various types of garments.
Various types of garment pressing equipment / machines are used for pressing of various types of
garments. Because, pressing of all kinds of garments cannot be done by one kind of pressing
machine. In some garments factories, multiple types of pressing machines are used for getting
pressing of desired quality comparatively at small expense.
Types of Garment Pressing Equipment and Methods:

1. Iron:

APPLICATION (mainly during sewing operation):

Collar
Cuff
Placket
Pocket
In electric iron, regulator is used to control
temperature. For electric iron, generally flat
bed or shaped bed can be used but for steam
iron, ironing bed having facility of air-suction
is required. Just after ironing bed, the heat
and moisture of the calendared portions of the
garment are removed instantaneously. As a
result, the possibility of unwanted crease in
the garments becomes less and the fabric dries
quickly, moreover, the high quality pressing can be done comparatively in high speed.

2. Steam Press:
APPLICATION (generally the bigger components before sewing):

Front Panel,
Back Panel
Yoke
Sleeve

There is a static buck and a head in the steam press whose shapes are proportionate to each other.
Keeping the shirt component on the buck, the head is placed on the buck and the garment is
ironed by applying heat and pressure. The buck is set in a frame and the ironing bed is made by
spreading a few layers of fabrics or foam on the buck. There is system of the flow of steam and air-
suction through the buck. There are tables around the buck where the shirt components are kept.
The head remains in a frame on which bedlike arrangement is made by a number of layers of
fabrics or foam. There is arrangement for supply of steam also through the head. Generally, the
head is brought down on the buck with the help of scissors action and pressure is applied. In
modern and automatic steam press machine, all jobs are done automatically in cyclic order by
switching only once. Specially how much amount of pressure the head will apply by coming down
on the buck, how much time will supply the steam and then the head will go upward from the
buck, how much time the air will be sucked through the buck etc. can be given pre-setting and if
requires, they can be changed also.
In the old system of garments pressing, skill
operator is required, because, it is very difficult
to maintain that when and what switches are to
be controlled regularly and properly. On the
otherhand, as the jobs are performed in cyclic
order in the modern steam press, the job of
operating of the machine is comparatively easy.
The head and the buck are generally covered by
the silicon coated cover of polyester or nylon
fabrics, which in need of time, can easily be
removed and cleaned. The shape of the head
and the buck may be of various types,
In ultra-modern steam press, there are one head and a number of bucks. Both the head and the bucks
are accelerated. In this situation, when the head continues to pressing, among the other two bucks,
garments loading is done in one and the just pressed garments are removed to the other. This type of
press helps in production by making vertical movement of the head.

3. Steam air finish:

APPLICATION:
Entire shirt after Stitching

This type of garments pressing machine is mainly known as “Puffer” or “Dolly” press. In Dolly press,
there is a form in the frame in which arrangement is there for flowing of steam and compressed air
with the help of a pipe. The pressing form is generally made by coarse canvass fabric. The size of the
pressing form is used as per the size of the body of the garments, but there are no sleeves. Timer is
used for flowing of steam and air for pre-setted time. An operator, covering from the upper side of the
pressing form, pull downs a garment. Then steam is flowed from inside the pressing form with the
help of a pipe, as a result, both the pressing form and the garment swell up. This way, steam is flowed
for first 8 seconds. Then hot air is flowed for the next 8 seconds.

As the outcome of garments pressing this way, if any

unwanted creases are there in the garments, they are
easily removed. Also minimum time is required for
garments pressing. A padded clamp is used along the
button hole lines so that during pressing the holes are not
de-shaped. During pressing of the garments made with
knitted fabrics in these machines, special care should be
taken so that the volume of the garments is not stretched.
In dolly pressing, there is no system of giving any creases
in the garments but if any creases are required then it is
done by hand iron or by steam press.