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Sensory and receptor responses to umami: an overview of pioneering

work1–3
Gary K Beauchamp

ABSTRACT a selective overview of some of the work on umami taste that


This article provides a selective overview of the early studies of has been conducted since Ikeda’s discovery, with special at-
umami taste and outlines significant questions for further research. tention given to the work conducted outside of Japan and work
Umami compounds such as the amino acid glutamate [often in the that focuses on sensory and hedonic properties. I also touch on
form of the sodium salt monosodium glutamate (MSG)] and the nu- mechanistic studies and their potential functional significance.
cleotide monophosphates 5#-inosinate and 5#-guanylate occur nat- Finally, several questions are proposed that require additional
urally in, and provide flavor for, many foods and cuisines around the investigation.
world. Early researchers in the United States found that the flavor of
pure MSG was difficult to describe. But they all agreed that, al-
though humans found umami compounds, when tasted alone, to be PERCEPTION
unpalatable, subjects reported that these compounds improved the
taste of foods. This taste “dichotomy” may be partly unlearned One of the early scientific articles in English on MSG, pub-
because it is also observed in very young infants. The uniqueness lished in 1929, described glutamic acid as a rare chemical that
of umami perception is based on several lines of evidence. First, imparted a meatlike taste, although at very low concentrations it
numerous perceptual studies have shown that the sensation aroused evoked a sweet taste (2). Subsequently, as the use of MSG in
by MSG is distinct from that of the other 4 taste qualities. Second, foods in the United States became more common, a number of
biochemical studies that show the synergy of the binding of MSG articles appeared that discussed the sensory properties of MSG,
and 5#-guanylate to tongue taste tissue mirror this hallmark percep- sometimes substantially disagreeing on the basic qualitative
tual effect. Third, several specific receptors that may mediate umami properties. Indeed, there were suggestions that MSG itself had no
taste have recently been identified. There remain, however, a number taste but functioned instead to enhance the other flavors in foods.
of puzzles surrounding the umami concept, including the molecular Two important early compendia on glutamate taste, published
basis for an apparent tactile component to umami perception, the as the proceedings of 2 symposia on MSG flavor and accept-
reason for the unpalatability of pure umami, and the functional ability in 1948 and 1955, were held under the auspices of the US
significance for human health and nutrition of umami detection. Army Quartermaster Food and Container Institute. The military
Future work aimed at understanding these and other open issues was interested in improving the quality of the food prepared
will profitably engage scientists in umami research well into the for the troops. These symposia brought together scientists and
next century. Am J Clin Nutr 2009;90(suppl):723S–7S. manufacturers to discuss and debate, among other issues, the
sensory properties of MSG. As is often the case with earlier
literature, many of the individual presentations were short on data
INTRODUCTION and long on speculation. But they did have one virtue often
The taste properties of the sodium salt of the amino acid L- missing from more recent, formalistic presentations: they en-
glutamate were first described by Kikunae Ikeda, who isolated it couraged exploration of the phenomenology of the sensory ex-
from seaweed in 1908 (1). He suggested that the taste was dif- perience of MSG, alone and in food.
ferent from any of the consensus basic tastes (sweet, sour, salty, It is useful to quote some of the descriptions of the taste of pure
bitter) and thus that it was a fifth basic taste. He further argued MSG by sensory specialists from the 1948 symposium:
that it served to allow organisms to detect and recognize sources
of protein in a manner analogous to that for sweet taste, which “A desirable meat-like taste” (3)
may signal carbohydrate calorie sources.
In the 100 y that followed this discovery, a large body of
1
research has appeared that deals with the flavor (umami) of From the Monell Chemical Senses Center, Philadelphia, PA.
2
monosodium glutamate (MSG) and the synergizing ribonu- Presented at the “100th Anniversary Symposium of Umami Discovery:
The Roles of Glutamate in Taste, Gastrointestinal Function, Metabolism, and
cleotides, inosine and guanosine monophosphates [5#-inosinate
Physiology,” held in Tokyo, Japan, 10–13 September 2008.
(IMP) and 5#-guanylate (GMP)]. Although we now have a much 3
Address correspondence to GK Beauchamp, Monell Chemical Senses
greater appreciation of the sensory properties of these sub- Center, 3500 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104. E-mail: beauchamp@
stances, their usefulness in the flavoring of foods, and their monell.org.
mechanism of action, many questions remain. Below I provide First published online July 1, 2009; doi: 10.3945/ajcn.2009.27462E.

Am J Clin Nutr 2009;90(suppl):723S–7S. Printed in USA. Ó 2009 American Society for Nutrition 723S
724S BEAUCHAMP

“Its taste has all 4 components: sweetness, sourness, saltiness and But it has been argued that the taste of GMP and IMP results
bitterness. In addition, glutamate has the capacity of stimulat- from synergism with the very small concentrations of free glu-
ing the feeling nerves of mouth and throat to produce the sen- tamate present in saliva (12). This hypothesis is hard to test
sation known as ‘satisfaction’.” (4) critically, and unfortunately, recent molecular receptor studies in
“In any event it is proper to consider glutamate as a stimulator of vitro cannot resolve the issue.
the sense of feeling as well as that of taste, and the indications In summary, early work in the United States confirmed Ikeda’s
are that it is unique in this capacity.” (4) report that MSG had a specific, perhaps unique, taste. Yet there
“It seems that glutamate is successful not because it adds taste, remained (and still remains) a curious difficulty in actually de-
but because it adds feeling.” (4) fining what that taste, or more broadly, what that flavor actually
“The principal effect on food flavor was a balancing, blending is. It would seem that if, as much subsequent molecular work
and rounding out of total flavor.” (5) supports, umami is a distinct taste property, it is unlike the more
“It is a sort of overall taste, flavor and feel.”(6) widely accepted 4 basic taste qualities in that it is less distinct and
“Glutamate creates a persistent, lingering flavor reaction.” (7) more subtle.

A fundamental disagreement among these early investigators,


and one that still reverberates today, concerned whether the taste HEDONICS
properties of MSG (ie, the perception of umami) were unique, as There is universal agreement that MSG, when added to many
Ikeda had suggested, or whether they could be mimicked by an (but not all) foods, enhances the palatability of those foods. As
appropriate combination of the other 4 basic taste qualities (eg, early as 1948 it was recognized that this enhanced palatability
reference 8), as Von Skramlik (9) might have proposed. The was particularly evident in soups, but was also present in a wide
results of such a metameric matching study (see references 10 variety of other nonsweet foods. It was further reported that MSG
and 11) necessary to test this hypothesis have never been pub- did not enhance the acceptability of fruits, fruit juices, or some
lished. Moreover, a failure to find the appropriate combinations dairy products (eg, reference 5). Palatability studies in different
of salt, sour, sweet, and bitter stimuli to duplicate exactly the cultures and across age groups have confirmed that umami
taste of MSG would be uninformative because one cannot prove substances added to many foods increase liking (eg, reference
the negative. 14).
As an alternative to metameric matching (and its difficulties) What was not clear was the underlying mechanism by which
for testing for unique sensory properties of umami, investigators MSG enhanced palatability. One curious finding is that the taste
have resorted to using similarity scaling methods to determine of pure MSG is generally not judged to be pleasant (eg, reference
whether MSG taste differs from the other basic tastes. In an 15) unlike the taste of sugar and, in some cases, salt. This finding
influential study, Yamaguchi (12) used multidimensional scaling in humans contrasts with work in rodents: these animals show
techniques to compare the perceived flavor similarities of MSG a clear preference for MSG and nucleotide monophosphates at
with sucrose, NaCl, tartaric acid, and quinine sulfate, as well as appropriate concentrations (16). This species dichotomy is an-
dyads, triads, and combinations of all 4 and all 5 compounds. She other way in which umami seems to differ from the other basic
also used multiple concentrations. Very simply, she found that tastes; we do not understand why this is the case.
within the 3-dimensional space mathematically generated from A fundamental question is the extent to which the palatability-
the perceptual similarity data, MSG stood outside the space that enhancing properties of umami are learned. Human milk is quite
encompassed the 4 other taste qualities. She concluded from this high in free glutamate, in contrast with cow milk, and it is thus
result that umami is not composed of the 4 basic tastes. Parallel possible that exposure to glutamate during nursing could in-
studies using similar techniques have been conducted by using fluence later acceptance and liking (17). Steiner (18) addressed
data from neural recordings (eg, reference 13) and have produced this question by testing newborn human infants. He gave the
similar results. infants MSG either alone or in a soup broth and then evaluated
One problem in interpreting these data are that they assume their facial expressions in response to brief oral exposures. MSG
that MSG has only taste properties. Yet if we go back to the alone did not elicit positive facial expressions (relative to water),
discussions of the overall sensory properties of MSG in earlier although MSG in soup elicited more positive facial expressions
publications (summarized in the 2 Quartermaster symposia than soup without MSG. Steiner concluded from his results that
reports), it is evident that, in addition to having a classic taste, there is an innate component to umami liking.
many investigators report that MSG also has an apparent tactile or We conducted studies in Mexican infants who were either well
feeling component often described as “fullness.” This obviously nourished or protein-calorie malnourished to test the hypothesis
could complicate interpretation of conclusions derived from that nutritional state would feed back on taste preferences. In
multidimensional scaling. Could the uniqueness of the taste particular, we wondered whether malnourished infants would
properties of MSG be due to the fact that, unlike other taste exhibit heightened preferences for MSG and/or hydrolyzed ca-
substances at the concentrations used, it alone has prominent sein (which contains free glutamate). Testing consisted of giving
tactile properties? Although this is unlikely, it cannot be rejected infants brief (1 min) access to flavor substances in baby bottles
without further testing. and monitoring the amount that they consumed, a technique that
One of the most interesting characteristics of umami taste is has been used successfully in many studies of infant flavor
the synergism between MSG and the 5#-ribonucleotides IMP and perception and preference. In pilot work (Vazquez, Pearson, and
GMP. It remains controversial whether IMP and GMP them- Beauchamp, unpublished results, 1979), we also found that
selves have an umami taste. When one of these substances is water solutions of both MSG and casein hydrolysate were not
placed in the mouth, a very clear umami taste can be recognized. preferred by infants; indeed, they were rejected relative to the
PIONEERING WORK IN UMAMI TASTE 725S
water diluent. The remainder of our work used a soup broth MSG and ribonucleotide binding in cow taste-receptor tissue, in
similar to that used by Steiner. We found that whereas nutritional particular because of the high sensitivity of the synergistic effect
state did affect casein hydrolysate intake (malnourished infants of added ribonucleotides. In 1984 Torii and Cagan (24) pub-
preferred soup plus casein hydrolysate, whereas well-nourished lished an important article that showed at the biochemical level
infants responded in the opposite manner), it had no effect on a possible mechanism underlying this perceptual synergism.
MSG preference. Both malnourished and well-nourished infants They found that binding of glutamate to bovine taste-receptor
preferred (ie, consumed more in brief intake tests) MSG-con- tissue was remarkably enhanced when very small amounts of
taining soup to soup containing no MSG (19, 20). This finding GMP were added to the glutamate. On the basis of the analysis
thus fails to support the proposition that MSG signals the of their data, they hypothesized that GMP acted to enhance the
presence of protein. number of sites available for MSG binding.
Our data are consistent with Steiner’s suggestion that, added to
certain foods, MSG enhances palatability even in very young
infants (the youngest in our studies were 2 mo of age). They are FUNCTION
also consistent with the adult judgment that MSG alone is not As noted above, Ikeda’s teleological suggestion that umami
palatable. But it is interesting to speculate from our results that taste provides the organism with a means to detect amino acids
the sensory properties of glutamate may not actually signal the and protein is difficult to test and has some logical difficulties.
presence of protein, as Ikeda suggested, unless they are ac- Nevertheless, this has remained the major hypothetical reason for
companied by other nutrients (other amino acids) and/or flavors the existence of umami as a basic taste.
that reinforce the message that nutrients are present. Indeed, In 1987 Fujita (25) published a thought-provoking article
many of the natural foods high in free glutamate (eg, seaweed, noting the anatomical similarity of endocrine cells in the gut and
tomatoes) are not rich sources of protein. Moreover, there is very taste cells in the mouth. He suggested that there might be
little human evidence that protein deficiency enhances the intake commonality of function. The more recent discovery of so-called
of umami-tasting foods. Our study of malnourished infants taste receptor molecular elements in gut tissue has spurred an
supports this view and is one of the few human studies to date that interest in the functional significance of this suggestion (26, 27).
have examined this idea. One of the other studies (21) reported Umami receptors in the mouth may be just the first step in the path
that both elderly individuals and individuals of lower nutritional through the alimentary tract along which nutrients such as amino
status had a preference for higher concentrations of MSG in soup acids are “recognized.” Future work in this area promises to be
than did individuals of higher nutritional status (as would be very exciting.
predicted by this hypothesis). However, this effect could be the
result of sensory loss rather than hedonic judgment. Moreover, in
a large series of studies with protein-restricted rats, Torii et al (22) OUTSTANDING QUESTIONS
found the reverse: protein-deficient rats avoid umami substances.
Many unknowns, as indicated in the foregoing discussion,
The idea that umami taste in foods signals the presence of protein
remain in our understanding of the mechanisms and functions of
thus requires much more supporting evidence before it can be
umami taste. A partial list of currently unanswered questions
accepted.
includes the following:
1) How does glutamate provide an apparent tactile compo-
MECHANISM nent to foods? Does it actually stimulate tactile as well as
Breakthroughs in the elucidation of receptor mechanisms taste receptors, as Crocker (4) originally suggested? Could
underlying taste perception are relatively recent: the first taste these 2 actions be separated?
receptors were identified in 1999 (16). Subsequently, an un- 2) How is it that glutamate requires other food components to
derstanding of the nature of taste receptors for sweet and bitter be “appreciated”? Is this a cognitive effect (responses of
began to emerge, although those for sour and salty remain newborn infants in Steiner’s studies would argue against
something of a mystery. Umami taste reception also remains this idea) or does it have a physiologic basis?
a puzzle in part because multiple receptors have been implicated 3) Multiple taste receptors have now been identified for umami
(16). taste (23). This surfeit requires explanation: Why are mul-
Biochemical studies of amino acid receptors provided earlier tiple receptors needed? Also a puzzle are studies demon-
groundwork that led to the recent set of molecular breakthroughs. strating umami “blindness,” ie, individuals who apparently
Before the now widespread use of molecular techniques, a bio- cannot detect umami taste except at very high concentra-
chemical strategy to receptor identification was used. But the tions (28). How could this occur if, as suggested above,
weak binding of sweet or even bitter stimuli in mammalian glutamate stimulates multiple taste receptors and perhaps
preparations made this approach problematic because it was tactile receptors?
impossible to isolate cells containing specific binding sites from 4) What are the physiologic roles of umami receptors
those that did not. Hence, the isolation of an enriched preparation throughout the entire ingestive and digestive system?
of cells containing taste receptor–ligand complexes could not be 5) Although not discussed here, several recent studies have
achieved. This realization led investigators, among them Robert suggested that the intake of glutamate may have a role in
Cagan and Joseph Brand, to select the channel catfish as a model, obesity that is either protective or stimulatory (29, 30). Is
on the basis of its exquisite sensitivity in identifying amino acids there anything special about umami taste or umami sub-
such as L-arginine. This work culminated in taste receptor stances in obesity? Also, what roles might umami substan-
identification (23). Further, it stimulated interest in the study of ces play in the nutritive care of the sick and the elderly?
726S BEAUCHAMP

(Other articles in this supplement to the Journal include ref- 21. Murphy C. Flavor preference for monosodium glutamate and casein
erences 17 and 31–58.) hydrolysate in young and elderly persons. In: Kawamura Y, Kare MR,
eds. Umami: a basic taste. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, 1987:139–
I thank Paul Breslin, Joe Brand, and Julie Mennella for helpful comments 51.
on earlier versions of this manuscript. 22. Torii K, Mimura T, Yugari Y. Biochemical mechanism of umami taste
The author’s travel expenses to participate in the symposium and an perception and effect of dietary protein on the taste preference for
honorarium, which were paid to the author’s employer, were paid for by amino acids and sodium chloride in rats. In: Kawamura Y, Kare MR,
the International Glutamate Technical Committee (the meeting sponsor), a eds. Umami: a basic taste. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, 1987:513–
nongovernmental organization funded by industrial producers and users of 63.
23. Caprio J, Brand JG, Teeter JH, et al. The taste system of the channel
glutamate in food. The author declared no conflicts of interest.
catfish: from biophysics to behavior. Trends Neurosci 1993;16:192–7.
24. Torii K, Cagan RH. Biochemical studies of taste sensation IX: en-
hancement of L-(3H)glutamate binding to bovine taste papillae by
5#-ribonucleotides. Biochim Biophys Acta 1980;627:313–23.
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