Simply Skin

Protection

Innovation you can build onTM

Contents: Solaveil Selector Guide
What’s driving the market
Inside Front Cover
2
Flexible Formulations with SolaCare 2-3
Daily Defence 4
Sunlight Radiation and the Skin 5-6
Let’s Get Physical 7-8
Solaveil Physical Shield 9
Solaveil Product Range Inside Back Cover
SolaveilTM Selector Guide

Start here What is the product being Do you want to offer a UVAPF Are you looking to make
used for? that is one third of the SPF? natural product?

Yes

No
Seasonal
Yes
Suncare

Yes

No
Yes
Application
Daily Wear
Area
No
Yes

No

Yes
Colour Cosmetics/
BB Creams
No
Yes

No

No
an all Would you prefer a water Highly recommended Recommended
dispersible inorganic dispersion dispersion or dispersion or
for more formulation flexibility? combination choice combination choice

CT-300 & CZ-300

Yes XT-40W

XT-40W & organic filters

No XT-300
CT-100 & CZ-100
Yes
CT-200 & CZ-100
CT-12W & organic filters
No ST-100 & CZ-100
CT-100 & organic filters

Yes XT-40W
CT-300 & CZ-300
No
CT-12W & organic filters
ST-100 & organic filters
Yes
ST-100 & CZ-100 CT-100 & CZ-100
No
CT-200 & CZ-100

No
CT-300
CT-100
Yes CT-12W
CT-200
No
ST-100

Yes
XT-40W
No XT-40W
XT-300
ST-100 & CZ-100
Yes

XT-100 CT-200
No

No

*For more details about all of our dispersions, please see the inside back cover
 More Protection Across the Spectrum

What’s Driving the Market? Flexible Formulations...

Consumers have long been aware of the fact that the ultraviolet (UV) Consumers are becoming more demanding with regards to the
radiation emitted by the sun can damage their skin. As a result, people cosmetic elegance of sun protection products, seeking effective
have protected themselves against UVB radiation (290-320nm) and the protection alongside appealing aesthetics. As a result, sun care
skin reddening, blistering and burning that it can induce for many years. products are being developed in a diverse range of formats,
offering varying levels of skin protection.
More recently, improved knowledge about the risks of UVA radiation
(320-400nm), including the development of skin cancer and premature …With SolaCare
skin ageing, has led to the demand for UVA protection not only in sun
care but also in everyday skin care products and cosmetics. The new SolaCare range of formulations shown overleaf have been
specifically designed to provide cost-effective, broad spectrum protection
Furthermore, consumers are now going beyond UV protection and in a variety of formats. Providing the perfect starting point for the
seeking protection from near-UV, or High Energy Visible (HEV), light. formulation of a complete range of beach wear products, the biphasal
Just beyond the cut-off from the UVA to the visible region of the distribution of UV actives allows the creation of stable formulations with
electromagnetic spectrum, HEV light has been linked to the degradation high actives loading. This approach exploits the synergy of combining
of collagen and elastin, resulting in the formation of wrinkles and also organic and inorganic filters as illustrated in Figure 1.
contributing to the physical signs of ageing.

HEV Near-IR UV
UVC UVB UVA (High Energy Visible light (Infrared)
Visible)

100nm 200 300 400 500 700 1000 Inorganic particles

As busy consumers look to minimise the time spent on their daily beauty Organic particles
regime, multitasking products that cover a variety of claims are becoming
much more commonplace. As a result, formulators are now challenged
Sunscreen
with creating high SPF, broad spectrum protection products with aesthetics
suitable for everyday use.
Sunscreen has not always offered the most convenient method for
protecting the skin and as a result UV protection is now an essential claim
of many daily wear skin products. With Blemish Balm, or BB creams, also
growing in popularity around the world, the distinction between sun care, Skin
skin care and even colour cosmetics is becoming increasingly blurred.
Figure 1: UV light is scattered, reflected and absorbed by particles in a sunscreen film,
thereby increasing path length and hence UV absorbance
New Skin Care Product Launches Claiming UV Protection
2200 Carefully balancing the inorganic filter Solaveil CT-12W with organic filters,
2000
these formulations are perfect for daily application, providing high SPF and
exceptional transparency on the skin.
1800
Aesthetic appeal is enhanced through the use of CrodamolTM SFX, an
Number of new product launches

1600
1400
effective solubiliser for organic UV filters which also offers a light and
silky skin feel. Additionally, a range of textures is created through the
1200
inclusion of ViscOptimaTM SE. A multifunctional liquid rheology modifier,
1000 this is easily post-added to formulations, providing versatile viscosities as
800 showcased in the following pages.
600
SPF is given an all important boost through the inclusion of two novel
400
ingredients. CrodafosTM MCK is an easy-to-use, primary oil-in-water
200 (O/W) emulsifier which is able to stabilise and finely disperse titanium
0 dioxide (TiO2) in formulation whilst providing a wonderfully rich, silky
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013

texture and a light, powdery after-feel. Meanwhile, SolPerFormTM 100 is

a unique film-forming biopolymer that boosts the efficacy of UV filters
Europe Asia Pacific North America Latin America Middle East & Africa
by improving the film forming properties of O/W emulsions on the skin’s
Source: Mintel , December 2013 surface without impacting upon skin feel.
2

Innovation
Innovation you
you can
can build
build on
onTMTM
 Flexible Formulations with the SolaCare Range

Product (INCI Name) Functionality Sun Spray SPF 30 Sun Spray SPF 50 Sun Cream SPF Sun Cream SPF
C10170 % w/w C10166 % w/w 30 C10169 % w/w 50 C10167 % w/w
Part A
CrodamolTM SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate)1 Light emollient 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00
ArlacelTM 165 FP (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate)1 Emulsifier 2.00 1.50 2.00 1.50
SpanTM 60 (Sorbitan Stearate)1 Emulsifier 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Eusolex OCR (Octocrylene)2 Organic UVB filter 4.50 7.00 4.50 7.00
Eusolex OS (Ethylhexyl Salicylate)
2
Organic UVB filter 2.50 3.50 2.50 3.50
Eusolex 9020 (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)2 Organic UVA Filter 2.00 4.00 2.00 4.00
Xiameter PMX-245 (Cyclopentasiloxane)3 Emollient 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Titriplex III (Disodium EDTA)4 Chelating agent 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Part B
Water Deionised (Aqua) To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100
PricerineTM 9091 (Glycerin)1 Humectant 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
CrodafosTM MCK (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate)1 Emulsifier 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
Veegum Ultra (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate) 5
Thickener 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40
Keltrol CG SFT (Xanthan Gum)6 Thickener 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Part C
SolaveilTM CT-12W (Aqua (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Oleth-10 (and) Inorganic UVB Filter 11.00 13.50 11.00 13.50
Isodeceth-6 (and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina (and) Simethicone
(and) Phenoxyethanol)1
Part D
SolPerFormTM 100 (Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP SPF booster 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Crosspolymer)1
ViscOptimaTM SE (Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) Rheology modifier 0.60 - 1.30 1.30
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20)1
Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)7 Preservative 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Fragrance A232278 (Parfum)8 Fragrance 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Euxyl K220 (Methylisothiazolinone (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Aqua)7 Preservative 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Merck 3: Dow Corning 4: Azelis 5: R. T. Vandebilt 6: CP Kelco 7: Schülke and Mayr 8: Ungerer

Method
Disperse the Veegum Ultra and Keltrol CG SFT in Pricerine 9091 and add water with stirring. Once fully hydrated add the Crodafos MCK with stirring and once
homogenous heat to 75-80˚C. Combine the Phase A ingredients and heat to 75-80˚C. Add Solaveil CT-12W to water phase with stirring, maintaining temperature. Add oil
phase to water phase with stirring. Homogenise for 2 minutes per 300g. Stir/cool to room temperature adding the Phase C ingredients once the temperature is below
40˚C with gentle stirring. If using ViscOptima SE to alter the rheology of a formulation, it is advisable to add this ingredient last to allow the SolPerForm 100, preservative
and fragrance to become evenly distributed throughout the formulation before modifying the rheology.

SolaCare Sun Spray SPF 30 SolaCare Sun Cream SPF 30

Appearance: Off-white sprayable lotion Appearance: Thick off-white cream
Viscosity: 4,530 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Viscosity: 21,880 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 92, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient,
pH: 6.81 pH: 6.47
Brookfield DV-I+) Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vivo SPF (Croda protocol): 36, label SPF 30 In vivo SPF (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA): 32 label SPF 30
In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012): 14, predicted to be PA+++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.14 In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012): 12, predicted to be PA+++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.50

SolaCare Sun Spray SPF 50 SolaCare Sun Cream SPF 50

Appearance: Off-white sprayable lotion
pH: 7.10 Viscosity: 3,080 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient,
Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vivo SPF (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA): 57, label SPF 50
In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012): 23, predicted to be PA++++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.17
Appearance: Thick off-white cream
Viscosity: 21,720 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 92, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient,
pH: 6.29
Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vivo SPF (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA): 59, label SPF 50
In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012): 27, predicted to be PA++++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 1.85

Please note, Cosmetics Europe and the Asean Cosmetics Association have both issued recommendations to discontinue the use of methylisothiazolinone in leave-on skin products.
Additionally, for the European market the SCCS Opinion on nano-TiO2 states that nano-TiO2 is not recommended for use in sprays, whilst for the US market TiO2 is not permitted for use in
3 combination with Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Daily Defence

Taking the popular BB cream trend to the next generation Perfect DD Cream SPF 20 C10164
with regards to consumer requirements, this new DD
Product/INCI Name % w/w % w/w
cream formulation offers the benefits of make-up and skin
Part A
care in a single application.
CrodamolTM GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1 Light emollient 13.00
This 100% natural, cold process formulation offers Span 20 (Sorbitan Laurate)
TM 1
O/W co-emulsifier 3.04
flawless coverage with daily defence against CrodamolTM ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Moisturising emollient 3.00
harmful wavelengths of light and the physical signs CrodamolTM SSA (Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Spreading emollient 3.00
of ageing using a range of innovative ingredients. Isostearate)1
NatraGemTM E145 (Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/ O/W emulsifier 2.46
Combining an exceptional level of UVA protection Succinate (and) Aqua)1
with high UVB efficacy, Solaveil XT-40W uniquely Part B
allows you to formulate high SPF, broad spectrum UV protection Water (Aqua) To 100
products using a single active ingredient. Ideal for use in colour PricerineTM 9091 (Glycerin)1 Humectant 3.00
cosmetics, such as this multifunctional DD cream, its large particle Veegum Ultra (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate)3 Thickener 1.00
size ensures that it can be combined with iron oxides to provide sheer Keltrol CG SFT (Xanthan Gum)4 Thickener 0.50
coverage without the need for additional white pigments. SolaveilTM XT-40W (Titanium Dioxide (and) Aqua Broad spectrum 15.00
(and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate inorganic filter
This has been combined with a novel active ingredient from Sederma, (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and)
VenuceaneTM. A biotechnological ferment with multifunctional and heat Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate
stable enzymes, Venuceane has previously proven its anti-UV-ageing (and) Squalane)1
properties. Today, thanks to new tests performed in 2013, Venuceane Part C
has demonstrated to be highly efficient against IR-ageing, proving the NHS-C339001-10 (Iron Oxide (and) CI77492)5 Yellow pigment 0.96
perfect complement to the protective action of our range of inorganic NHS-C338001-10 (Iron Oxide (and) CI77491)5 Red pigment 0.24
sun filters. NHS-C337001-10 (Iron Oxide (and) CI77499)5 Black pigment 0.06
Part D
Considered a very robust and versatile O/W emulsifier, NatraGem E145
TM

is the perfect emulsification solution for those difficult-to-work-with Purac HiPure 90 (Lactic Acid)6 pH adjuster qs
actives often found in sun care and BB cream applications. Effective Euxyl K712 (Sodium Benzoate (and) Preservative 1.50
Potassium Sorbate)7
in the creation of emulsions with a range of viscosities, anything from
Part E
sprayable to pourable lotions is possible with this 100% naturally
VenuceaneTM (Thermus Thermophilus Ferment IR and free radical skin 3.00
derived ingredient. (and) Glycerin)2 protector
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Lake Chemicals and Minerals 4: CP Kelco
5: Miyoshi 6: Purac 7: Schülke and Mayr

Method
Disperse the Veegum Ultra and Keltrol CG SFT in Pricerine 9091 and add water
with stirring. Once fully hydrated add the Solaveil XT-40W with stirring. Combine the
Phase A ingredients with stirring. Pre-blend Phase C with a pestle and mortar and
add to Phase A with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise the oil phase for three
minutes to disperse the pigments fully. Add Phase A to Phase B with stirring until
homogenous. Homogenise for a further three minutes. Adjust the pH with lactic acid
to below 4.5 whilst stirring and add the preservative Euxyl K172. Add the Venuceane
and mix until homogenous.

Appearance: Medium tan cream

pH: 5.55 Viscosity: 6,520 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1
minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vivo SPF (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA): 23, label SPF 20
In vitro critical In vitro UVAPF (COLIPA 2011 Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.55
wavelength on no pigments formulation):
(FDA 2011 protocol, 9, equivalent to PA+++
Croda): 380 nm

Innovation you can build onTM

 Sunlight Radiation and the Skin

Wavelength Range (nm) Decreasing

UVB UVA HEV IR-A
290-320 320-400 380-500 750-1400

UVB

The Importance of Sun Defence

One of the most important ways to take care
of your skin is to protect it from the sun. It
is vital that skin protection products help to
prevent processes such as photoageing and
photocarcinogenesis, in addition to helping
avoid sunburn and blistering. Protection from Stratum corneum
infrared (IR) and Near-UV, or High Energy
Visible (HEV), radiation in addition to UV
protection is now pivotal in fully protecting the
skin against the sun’s radiation. Basal cell layer

Sebaceous gland
SolaveilTM Physical Shield
Inorganic filters such as Croda’s Solaveil Hair
range of sunscreen actives are mineral
based insoluble particles, such as titanium
dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) that act Erector pili muscle
as a physical shield against UV. They scatter
and absorb light, resulting in UV rays being
reflected away from the skin. Capilliaries

Solaveil SpeXtraTM: Xtra Protection Nerve

Across the Spectrum
Combining an exceptional level of UVA Blood vessels
protection with high UVB efficacy, these
innovative TiO2 dispersions also offer
outstanding protection against near-UV or
High Energy Visible (HEV) light. The award
Damaging Effects of Damaging Effects of
winning Solaveil SpeXtra range allows you
to formulate high SPF, truly broad spectrum UVB are: UVA are:
sun protection products that act as a physical Reddening, blistering and Skin ageing, wrinkling
shield to reduce UV and HEV induced free burning. Skin cancer. vascular and lymphatic
radicals within the skin. damage, DNA damage.

5
energy
Increasing penetration
UVA High Energy Visible
Damaging Effects of
Visible Radiation are:
Activation of
metalloproteinases to
promote degradation of
collagen and elastin, forming
glycation wrinkles and
premature ageing.
Infrared A
VenuceaneTM: The perfect
complement to sun filters
Epidermis Venuceane is a heat stable biotechnological
extract containing ExtremozymesTM. It inhibits
radical oxygen species and repairs and
protects against damage caused by UVA.
Venuceane:
The deleterious effects of infrared rays on the
skin are now under investigation. Damage
Dermis such as increase of micro-inflammation,
disorganization of the dermal structures,
oxidation and decreased cell energy have
already been demonstrated.
Sederma has performed new studies to show
the power of Venuceane to protect and
repair the cutaneous cells and tissues from
IR-Ageing damage.
n Reduction in inflammatory messengers,
n Maintenance of collagen network synthesis,
Hypodermis n Protection of elastin network elements,
n Reduction in intracellular radical
oxygen species.
In addition, Venuceane triggers energy
production and strengthens the epidermis
by improving synthesis of involucrine and
Damaging Effects of ceramides. Venuceane contributes to
IR-A are: protecting the skin against the harmful effects
Premature skin ageing, of the various wavelengths of sunlight and
modification of collagen network constitutes a perfect complement to the
equilibrium by decrease of protective action of inorganic sun filters.
synthesis and increase of
proteolysis, production of
feathery fibres and production of
radical oxygen species.
Moreover IR-A irradiation
reinforces UV damaging effects
on cells and tissues.
Innovation you can build onTM
 Let’s Get Physical

Traditional routes to achieving the high SPFs that consumers Purely Physical UV Fluid SPF 50 C10171
demand have involved using both organic and inorganic filters.
Product/INCI Name Functionality % w/w
However, those with sensitive skin are increasingly looking for
Part A
milder ingredients that are suitable for everyday use.
CrodamolTM AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)1 Emollient 7.00
Organic and Inorganic Sunscreens Explained ArlamolTM HD (Isohexadecane)1 Emollient 5.00
Crodamol CAP (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (and)
TM
Emollient 5.00
Organic filters are chemical based and form a thin protective film on the Isopropyl Myristate)1
surface of the skin, absorbing UV radiation. CrodamolTM DA (Diisopropyl Adipate)1 Emollient 5.00
Inorganic filters are mineral based insoluble particles, such as TiO2 and CithrolTM PG32IS (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate)1 W/O emulsifier 3.00
ZnO, that act as a physical shield against UV radiation. They scatter and CrodasperseTM (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Dispersing agent 3.00
Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate (and) Sorbitan
absorb light, resulting in UV rays being reflected away from the skin, as Isostearate)1
shown in Figure 2. Xiameter PMX-245 (Cyclopentasiloxane)2 Emollient 6.00
Inorganic only formulations present a practical strategy for baby care SolaveilTM CZ-100 (Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Inorganic UVA filter 23.00
or sensitive skin products as these actives are perceived as the most Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and)
Isostearic Acid)1
natural form of UV filters and are non-irritant.
SolaveilTM CT-100 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Inorganic UVB filter 3.00
Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminum Stearate (and)
Organic sunscreen Inorganic sunscreen Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina)1
UV light is absorbed by sunscreen UV light is absorbed and scattered Part B
Water Deionised (Aqua) To 100
Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate Salting out 0.70
SolaveilTM XT-40W (Titanium Dioxide (and) Aqua Broad spectrum 15.00
UV rays from the sun UV rays from the sun (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate inorganic filter
(and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and)
Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate
(and) Squalane)1
Part C
Dermosoft GMCY (Glyceryl Caprylate)3 Preservative 0.50
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Dow Corning 3: Dr Straetmans

Method
Add Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate to water and stir until dissolved then add
Solaveil XT-40W with stirring. Combine oil phase (Phase A) ingredients, except
Solaveil CZ-100 and Solaveil CT-100. Once Phase A is homogeneous add
Solaveil CZ-100 and Solaveil CT-100 with stirring. Add Phase B to Phase C with
stirring. Homogenise for one minute. Add Phase C and stir until homogeneous.

Appearance: White fluid

Sunscreen layer Sunscreen layer Viscosity: 3060 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+)
The skin The skin Stability: 3 months at 5°C, 40°C, 45°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vivo SPF (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA): 56, label SPF 50
Figure 2: A visual representation of the ways in which organic and inorganic sunscreens In vitro UVAPF (ISO 24443:2012, Croda): 21, predicted to Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.4
work to protect the skin. be PA++++
In vitro Critical Wavelength (FDA 2011 protocol, Croda): 377 nm
Our Purely Physical UV Fluid uses photostable,
inorganic only UV filters, which means that they
do not deteriorate when exposed to light and offer
assured, consistent protection when exposed to UV
radiation. It offers an excellent skin feel and provides
intensive protection that is mild and kind enough for
daily use on sensitive or children’s skin.
This cold process water-in-oil (W/O) formulation utilises Solaveil CZ-100,
Solaveil CT-300 and Solaveil XT-40W to provide high SPF, broad spectrum
protection with relatively low levels of whitening on the skin.
7
ZnO is a commonly used, inorganic UV filter offering broad Crystal Clear Sun Lotion SPF 20 C10158
spectrum protection across the UVA and UVB regions
Product/INCI Name % w/w % w/w
of the electromagnetic spectrum. In sun and skin care
Part A
applications in particular, nano-forms of ZnO are widely
NatraGemTM E145 (Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/ O/W Emulsifier 2.46
used as they offer the benefit of transparency when Succinate (and) Aqua)1
applied to the skin. SpanTM 20 (Sorbitan Laurate)1 O/W Co-emulsifier 3.04
CrodamolTM ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 2.00
However, incorporating ZnO into O/W formulations has traditionally
CrodamolTM SSA (Decyl Isostearate (and) Emollient 2.00
proven a difficult task, since uncoated ZnO is highly hydrophilic and Isostearyl Isostearate)1
so tends to migrate into the aqueous phase of an emulsion. Below pH CrodamolTM GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1 Emollient 2.00
6, ZnO is also soluble to a significant degree and this dissolution can Propylene Glycol 3.00
encourage further migration.
Solaveil CZ-300 (Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/
TM
Inorganic UVA filter 22.50
The alkaline ZnO complexes formed through this process can cause Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
(and) Isostearic Acid)1
pH levels to increase to unacceptable levels for skin care applications,
SolaveilTM CT-300 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Inorganic UVB filter 2.50
reduce SPF efficacy or even destabilise the emulsion structure by (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Polyhydroxystearic
increasing electrolyte concentration in the aqueous phase. Acid (and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina)1
Phase B
The key when formulating with ZnO in O/W formulations is to prevent
Deionised Water (Aqua) - To 100
this migration, as applied in this Crystal Clear Sun Lotion. This O/W
cream employs a range of strategies to optimise stability whilst offering PricerineTM 9091 (Glycerin)1 Humectant 3.00
a light skin feel and complete transparency on the skin. Veegum Ultra (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate)2 Thickener 1.00
Keltrol CG SFT (Xanthan Gum) 3
Thickener 0.50
Solaveil CZ-300 is a novel grade of ZnO that contains a dispersing
Titriplex III (Ethylenedinitrilotetraacetic Acid Chelating agent 0.10
agent, polyhydroxystearic acid, to ensure that the ZnO is optimally Disodium Salt Dihydrate)4
dispersed within the oil phase. Solaveil CZ-300 also contains an Citric Acid Solution (50 %w/w) pH Adjuster 2.00
additional dispersing agent, isostearic acid, which acts as an in situ Phase C
coating on the particles, further reducing the tendency for migration. Euxyl PE9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Preservative 0.70
Ethylhexylglycerin)5
The addition of xanthan gum helps to re-disperse ZnO which may have
migrated to the aqueous phase, whilst including propylene glycol in the Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: RT Vanderbilt 3: CP Kelco 4: Azelis 5: Schülke and Mayr
oil phase improves the distribution of ZnO within the emulsion.
Utilising a chelating agent in the water, such as sodium EDTA, also Method
enhances the stability of the formulation and ensures consistent, Premix the Keltrol CG SFT, Veegum Ultra and Pricerine 9091 add water with stirring.
assured, sun protection. Once water phase (B) has hydrated add the Titriplex III and then the citric acid
solution with stirring. Combine oil phase ingredients (A) apart from Solaveil CT-300
This formulation employs a robust emulsifier system, combining and Solaveil CZ-300 with stirring, mix until homogeneous then add the Solaveil CT-300
NatraGem E145 with SpanTM 20, to create a light spreadable texture and Solaveil CZ-300 with stirring, mix until homogeneous. Add oil phase (A) to water
and leave a pleasantly smooth skin feel. Meanwhile Crodamol ISIS phase (B) with stirring. Homogenise for one minute. Add the Euxyl PE9010 and mix
until homogeneous. Check pH (6.5-7.5).
provides excellent moisturising properties to the skin whilst
Crodamol SSA provides an elegant skin feel.
Appearance: White lotion
pH: 7.10 Viscosity: 6630 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm,
1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 5°C, 40°C, 45°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C
In vitro SPF: 22 Label SPF: 20
In vitro Critical Wavelength (FDA In vitro UVAPF Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.5
2011 protocol, Croda): 370 nm (COLIPA 2011): 8

Innovation you can build onTM

 Solaveil Physical Shield

Consumer Education Solaveil iPhone App

Whilst many people use sun protection products daily, the majority of In order to appeal to time pressed consumers who may not remember
consumers are still unaware of just how much damage the sun’s rays to top up their sunscreen throughout the day, we have developed a
can cause. Our aim is to work with our customers in order to educate the convenient app in order to help them protect themselves both at home
consumer about the role that Solaveil inorganic sunscreens can play in and abroad.
helping them protect themselves against the overall effects of the sun.
The app combines personal user
details such as skin, hair and eye
Brand Benefits colour with GPS data from the user’s
By choosing to brand your products with Solaveil, you will gain iPhone to detect their location for local
access to additional benefits that can be complementary to your own temperatures and UV estimates. This
marketing plan. allows bespoke alarms to be created
as reminders to reapply sunscreen or
These include: seek shade. The app works globally so
n Consumer education holidaymakers travelling abroad can
n Optimised Solaveil website also benefit from free sun care advice.
Multiple profiles can be established
n Exhibition promotion
simultaneously so that sun protection
n Opportunities for joint marketing collaborations for the entire family can be administered
n Access to our sun care experts from a single device.
n Social media marketing of the Solaveil brand

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When the sun

comes out, so
should Solaveil™

9
Solaveil Product Range

Family Name Trade Name Carrier Preservative INCI Name

Solaveil Clarus Solaveil CT-100 C12-15 Alkyl None C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminum Stearate
Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina

Solaveil CT-200 Triethylhexanoin/ None Titanium Dioxide (and) Triethylhexanoin (and) Isohexadecane (and)
Isohexadecane Aluminum Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina

Solaveil CT-300 Caprylic/Capric None Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Polyhydroxystearic
Triglyceride Acid (and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina

Solaveil CT-12W Water Phenoxyethanol Water (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Oleth-10 (and) Isodeceth-6 (and)
Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Simethicone

Solaveil Sensation Solaveil ST-100 C12-15 Alkyl None C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Polyglyceryl-3
Benzoate Polyricinoleate (and) Silica (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aminopropyl
Triethoxysilane

Solaveil SpeXtra Solaveil XT-100 C12-15 Alkyl None Titanium Dioxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Benzoate (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina

Solaveil XT-300 Caprylic/Capric None Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic
Triglyceride Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina

Solaveil XT-40W Water None Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and)
Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) Seed Oil (and)
Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane

Zinc Oxide Dispersions

Solaveil Clarus Solaveil CZ-100 C12-15 Alkyl None Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Benzoate (and) Isostearic Acid

Solaveil CZ-300 Caprylic/Capric Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Triglyceride (and) Isostearic Acid

NOTE: The data given in the above table are intended as approximate guidelines and are not specifications.
Regulations regarding sunscreen filters and combinations of filters can be complex and vary by country. Please visit our website or contact your
 Croda % Solids % Active (TiO2 or ZnO) Comments SPF Comment Typical SPF / Transparency
Green Gem (approximate levels) UVAPF ratio Comments

— 45% 33% State-of-the-art range of TiO2 Typically 2.0-3.0 4.0 Transparency on skin
dispersions, offering true SPF units for each comparable to organic
transparency on the skin. 1% solids sunscreens.
— 50% 37%

Green
45% 33%
Gem

— 40% 30%

— 40%
30% TiO2 dispersion with a
modified silane coating to
give enhanced skin feel.
Offers UVB protection with
true transparency on the skin.
Typically 2.0-3.0 4.0 Transparency on skin
SPF units for each comparable to organic
1% solids sunscreens.

— 55% 47% Award winning range of Typically 2.0-3.0 2.0-3.0 Some whitening on skin.
TiO2 dispersions, offering SPF units for each (Meets European Well suited for baby
unrivalled UVA protection and 1% solids & FDA critical care, natural sun care
55% 47% free radical protection. wavelength and colour cosmetics.
Green
Gem requirements) Solaveil XT-40W offers
less whitening in
formulation.
50% 40%
Green
Gem

— 60% 57% Inorganic UVA filter offering Typically 1.0-2.0 1.3 Transparency on skin
true transparency on skin. SPF units for each comparable to organic
1% solids sunscreens.
Green
60%
Gem

sales respresentative for further details on each material.

Innovation you can build onTM

Notes

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only
opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products
including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark
and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2014 Croda Europe Ltd 02/14PCMB025v2

Innovation you can build onTM

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