Beginner's Guide by Yvonne Cuthbertson

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Beginners’ Guide to
HERB
GARDENING
^ Yvonne Cuthbertson ~
GUILD OF MASTER CRAFTSMAN

PUBLICATIONS LTD
For my husband, Bob
First published 2001 by

Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd
166 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XU
Text © Yvonne Cuthbertson 2001

© in the Work GMC Publications Ltd
Illustrations by Penny Brown

Photographs on pages 20, 110, 112, 121, 126 © Harry Smith Collection
All other photographs © Yvonne Cuthbertson
ISBN 1 86108 198 7
Reprinted 2001
All rights reserved
British Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library
The right of Yvonne Cuthbertson to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in
accordance with the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988, Sections 77 and 78.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form
or by any means without the prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner.
This book is sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for commercial
reproduction without the permission of the designer and copyright owner.
The publishers and author can accept no legal responsibility for any consequences arising from the
application of information, advice or instructions given in this publication.
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Book designed and edited by Margot Richardson
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Printed by and bound by Kyodo (Singapore) under
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3 1223 06062 5796

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 1
1 DESIGNING AND PLANNING A HERB GARDEN 4
2 CHOOSING HERBS FOR A GARDEN 26
3 PROPAGATION, PRUNING, PESTS AND DISEASES 42
4 GROWING HERBS IN CONTAINERS AND RAISED BEDS 60
5 GROWING AND USING CULINARY HERBS 78
6 HERBS FOR FRAGRANCE AND COLOUR 94
7 HERB LAWNS AND SEATS, PATHS AND PAVING 110
8 GROWING HERBS INDOORS 130
9 HARVESTING AND PRESERVING HERBS 144
GLOSSARY OF GARDENING TERMS 158
ABOUT THE AUTHOR 152
INDEX 153
INTRODUCTION *
Herb gardening is rather like embarking on a plants to grow and, given the right
journey into the past; a nostalgic trip conditions, they will quickly reward you with
evocative of all the charm and delights of a vigorous, healthy growth, luxuriant foliage
more leisurely age. And probably the greatest and rich, aromatic perfumes. They are now
joy of herb gardening is that it is easy, generally accepted as valuable garden plants
inexpensive and very satisfying as well as in their own right, and can make stunning
combining all the pleasures of the flower displays as well as being functional.
garden with the usefulness of the vegetable Herbs have held their place in our gardens
plot. A small amount of effort is soon for centuries and have a long association with
rewarded by a treasury of shape, colour, the church: the monastery gardens are
texture and taste. Herbs are accommodating legendary. Herbs are attractive, romantic and
Feverfew produces masses of daisy-like flowers

2 beginners' guide to herb gardening
Their aesthetic appeal and decorative and

ornamental qualities are as important today
as they have always been, with each plant
having its own characteristic scent, foliage,
texture and shape.
Herb gardens are pleasant places in which
to walk, especially on a hot summer’s day
when their aromatic scents permeate the
whole garden. There is also something very
satisfying about stepping outside your
Golden rod has upright stems and pointed leaves,

and its yellow flowers are borne in late summer
timeless, reminiscent of bygone days when

our ancestors cultivated them not only for
their usefulness, but also for the ‘magic’ that
surrounded them. Herb gardens also have a
certain domestic quality, providing unity to Cowslips are one of the best herbs for attracting
the planting by giving it shape and purpose. bees during spring
Nasturtiums make an excellent garnish for salads, giving them both colour and flavour
kitchen door and picking a handful of cultivate herbs in containers, which is an

fragrant herbs. Herb gardens allow plenty of excellent idea if space is limited. The wide
scope for the imagination, and herbs adapt to range and variety of herbs on offer nowadays
a number of styles and designs. Planning and make it easy to introduce them into any
planting them is fun. It prompts you to look garden, whatever its size or design.
at gardening books and catalogues, to visit With today’s ever-increasing interest in
nurseries, garden centres, existing herb ecology, natural products and alternative
gardens and even museums and libraries to medicines, herbs have once more come into
do a bit of research as you collect your ideas their own. In addition to being utilitarian
and choose which herbs to grow. A and practical, they are easy to introduce into
decorative herb garden gives pleasure during any garden layout, thus allowing the gardener
every season if year-round interest is taken to find plants suitable for every situation.
into account when planning it. Herbs are ideal to make a garden that is
Everyone can grow herbs, even if they live unique and individual, and that always
in a flat or apartment. Many gardeners reflects the personal tastes of its creator.
1 DESIGNING AND PLANNING
1 A HERB GARDEN
Herbs are a striking and invaluable feature of SIZE

any garden, and a surprisingly large selection A herb garden can range from the smallest
can be grown in a small amount of space, practical measurement, 1.8m (6ft) by 1.2m
added to which, herbs are extremely adaptable (4ft), to 3m (9ft 9in) square, to 7.6m (25ft)
and easy to cultivate. They can be planted in by 5.5m (18ft) or larger. This depends upon
a variety of situations: the vegetable plot, the the space available, your chosen design, the
rockery and the herbaceous border, to name herbs you wish to grow, and the time you
but a few. And yet, there is something have available for maintenance (although
extremely satisfying about having a separate, herbs are relatively maintenance free).
attractively designed herb garden: the impact However, don’t be over-ambitious: start small,
of combined scents, shapes, textures and growing the herbs you will use initially and
colours can be quite stunning. then adding to them later on.
A traditional American herb garden at the American Museum in Bath, England

DESIGNING AND PLANNING A HERB GARDEN 5
LOCATION
Before you can actually plan the design of
your herb garden, you need to establish
where it is going to be located. Many herbs
originated in Mediterranean countries and
prefer plenty of sun, some exceptions being
the mints (mentha), chervil (.Anthriscus
cerefolium), bergamot (.Monarda didyma) and
angelica (Angelica archangelica). The ideal
position for your herb garden, therefore, is in
a south- and/or west-facing part of the
garden that slopes slightly towards the sun.
Always plant your herbs in the conditions
they prefer. Make sure that you have easy
access to them: firm, all-weather paths are
essential. Remember also that some herbs are
very choosy about soil and position, while
others are extremely adaptable. For instance,
rosemary (.Rosmarinus officinalis) will grow
almost anywhere, although it will not
flourish in cold winters.
Most herbs, including hyssop, need sun to thrive
SHELTER
Herbs dislike wind, so a sheltered spot is
important. This can be achieved simply and
effectively by planting hedges of herbs such
as English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia),
rosemary, hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), or
traditional box (Buxus sempervirens), all of
which will tolerate clipping. Alternatively,
trellises with roses or honeysuckle trained up
them will help. If you are able to site your
garden within a walled area or behind a
fence, so much the better. The garden could
be ‘walled in’ with banks of earth which can
afterwards be planted with pennyroyal
(.Mentha pulegium) or Roman chamomile
Honeysuckle can be trained around pillars (■Chamaemelum nobile).
SOIL Types of soil

The condition and quality of the soil is The acidity or alkalinity of soil depends upon
important to every herb garden design. Soil how much calcium it contains: too little and
that is sodden after prolonged rain will need the soil is acid, too much and it is alkaline.
to have its water-draining ability improved, These levels of calcium are measured by what
although most herbs will thrive on relatively is known as the pH scale which reads from
poor soil, provided that it is not waterlogged. 0—14. Soils with a pH above 7 are alkaline,
Often, improvement can be achieved quite those with a pH below 7 are acid. The pH of
easily by forking in coarse sand at the rate of most soils lies somewhere between pH6 and
1.7-2.1 kg per sq m (4 lb per sq yd). pH 7.5 making them more or less neutral,
If, however, the drainage problem is more and most herbs will tolerate these kinds of
severe, this can be solved by the construction conditions. A pH reading of 7 is ideal.
of a so aka way. You can determine the pH level of your
own soil by buying a pH-testing kit from
Constructing a soakaway your local garden centre and following its
simple instructions. The kit will indicate the
topsoil approximate pH value. This approximation is
usually good enough because all plants
possess some tolerance.
rubble or large stones gravel or coarse sand
STAGE 1: Dig a hole at least 60cm (2ft)

square and 90cm (3ft) deep at the lowest
point in the garden.
STAGE 2: Fill it to within 30cm (12in) of the

top with rubble or large stones.
STAGE 3: Cover with a 15cm (6in) layer of

gravel or coarse sand.
STAGE 4: Finish with a 15cm (6in) layer of A soil-testing kit, showing a pH reading of 6.5,
topsoil to ground level. which denotes a slightly acid soil
Acid soil
Not many plants thrive in acid soil. The pH
of slightly acid soil can be raised by the
addition of lime. The best limes to use are
ground chalk or limestone, the finer the
grade the better, and they can be dug into
your plot during preparation time.
Great care should always be taken when
using lime because it is a caustic substance.
Be sure to choose a day when no wind is
blowing, and always keep children and pets
well away from the area. A mask can be
worn, if desired. Always wear gloves when
handling, and make sure that it doesn’t come
into contact with the skin or the eyes. If it Horseradish will thrive in a clay soil
does, wash off immediately with cold water.
Should there be any cause for concern, seek
medical advice immediately. elecampane (Inula helenium), horseradish
(Armoracia rusticana), Jacob’s ladder
Heavy clay soil (.Polemonium caeruleum) and tansy
Heavy clay soil should be dug over in (Tanacetum vulgare). Generally, though,
autumn and left exposed to winter frosts. plants will struggle in heavy clay soils. The
Add large quantities of organic matter during ground easily becomes compacted because
late winter/early spring; its fibrous nature will there are very few air spaces between the
help open up the soil and, gradually, smaller particles. So if your soil is really very heavy,
and smaller crumbs will form from the large you should, perhaps, consider growing your
clods of earth. Leaf mould and bark are herbs in raised beds (see pages 76-7).
excellent soil conditioners. Bark is best left on

the surface to rot, after which it can then be Light soil
worked into the soil. Seaweed and spent hops A light, free-draining soil is usually low in
also do the job, as does spent mushroom nutrients and doesn’t hold moisture.
compost. Plenty of organic matter such as Mediterranean herbs will thrive under such
this will need to be worked in, and added conditions, but others will not. Herbs such as
regularly every year. You could also add grit mints will benefit from the addition of
or sand but, while the texture of the soil will organic matter four to five weeks before
be altered, little will be done to improve its planting which will supply nutrients and help
actual structure. to retain moisture. Don’t do this any earlier
On the plus side, though, clay is probably as you will risk the chance of it being leached
one of the richest soils as it has the ability to by the rain. Humus contains gel-like
hold on to plant foods and to release them substances which bind soil particles together
slowly, and there are herbs that will thrive in to form crumbs, and also aid the retention of
it, such as comfrey (>Symphytum officinale), moisture due to their sponge-like properties.
Most ground needs a thorough digging in order to prepare it for a herb garden
FERTILIZERS topsoil to make it look good. (This can also

Fertilizer may be added to the soil ten to happen on ploughed farm land.) This will
twelve days before planting. A compound have left a hard layer of compacted earth
fertilizer will contain nitrogen to encourage below the surface soil which will impede
leaf and stem growth, potash to aid flower drainage and prevent plants from rooting. In
and fruit formation, and phosphate which this case, double digging will be necessary.
will give a boost to roots. Try to avoid the use Dig the plot over in autumn and, if single
of artificial fertilizers. Organic or herbal digging’ throw the soil forwards as you go so
fertilizers are best. that you have a neat trench alongside you.
Put organic matter on the slope of the soil
DIGGING YOUR PLOT that has been thrown forwards, so that it will
Before planting, you will need to dig your eventually become thoroughly mixed in
soil over thoroughly. Generally, soil only through all levels of the soil. Refill the
needs to be dug to one spade’s depth. One trenches with the amount of soil taken out to
exception is land surrounding a newly built keep the digging level. In spring, turn the soil
house where builders have been using heavy over thoroughly, removing all weeds and
machinery and have then placed a few debris. Break it up with a spade or fork and
centimetres of fresh soil over the compacted then rake it until a fine tilth is obtained.
PLANTING PLANNING ON PAPER

• Keep to recommended planting distances Once you have decided on the size and site of
on the seed packets or, if the plants have your herb garden, it is important to plan it on
been bought from a nursery or garden paper so that you can be sure of blending the
centre, to the planting distances shown on colours of foliage and flowers, and the textures
the labels. of leaves, as well as avoiding planting tall herbs
• Harvest the herbs regularly. Trim them and in front of mound-forming varieties.
keep them in check as necessary to control Ask yourself what kind of design is suitable
both their height and their spread and to for your garden, what groups of plants you
keep your design or construction neat and will grow, and if your garden will follow a
well-defined. theme or pattern. Draw to scale to make it
• Remember that herbs will grow at different easier to appreciate the size of the beds; to
rates according to the soil in which they assess the proportions - height and spread — of
are planted, their position and the climate the various herbs; and to compare the space
of the area in which you live. Some of between the beds with the dimensions of your
them will also self-seed. plants. Measure carefully and make sure you
• The overall number of plants you use will position all your permanent features correctly.
depend upon the size of your design or Don’t forget to include nearby existing features
construction. such as hedges, fences, walls, large trees and
• Note the season of interest of each herb. the house itself.
A herb bed with traditional box hedging, clipped to give the bed its customary uniformity
graveolens) as the backbone of your design,

planting them throughout according to their
height. You should then think about the
positioning of perennial herbs such as lemon
balm (Melissa officinalis), fennel (Foeniculum
vulgare), lovage (Levisticum officinale) and
bergamot and, finally, annual herbs which
should be arranged according to height,
spread, colour of flowers and foliage, and
texture of leaves.
Within your chosen design, herbs can be
planted informally and arranged so that the
culinary herbs are kept separate from pot¬
pourri ones, for example, or formally using
just a few species of herbs in large numbers to
A triangular edging of golden feverfew create ‘carpets’ of herb bedding.
DESIGNS
Think where you are going to place your Having chosen your site, you will need to
paths. A herb garden will need paths around think about the shape and size of your
its borders as well as between its beds. Ideally garden. In most gardens the shape is
they should be wide enough for trundling a rectangular. But, whatever design you decide
wheelbarrow along, and for wheelchair access, upon, remember that your herb garden
if applicable. If your garden is to be of an must be practical.
informal design, then the paths could be A lot of herb gardens are informal and
curved, but make sure that they lead semi-formal, although the ones that have the
somewhere: towards a seat, perhaps? And don’t greatest impact are usually formal. Remember
forget to place a focal point, which is that many herbs don’t grow to their
traditional and which relieves the flatness: a ‘prescribed’ sizes, while some of them romp
bird bath, a sundial, or a potted bay tree are away, often to twice their normal size. This
ideal. Ornaments, however, must never can result in one plant masking another as it
dominate or ruin the impact of your design. It jostles for space and light so you will need to
is easy to destroy the elegance of your herb discover how various herbs will grow in your
garden, so choose wisely. particular soil. It is also important to know
Use separate sheets of paper for working out the type of soil that you have and to note
planting schemes. These can be altered, if down the season of interest of each of your
necessary, when you have actually tried out chosen plants: some will start to grow early in
possible variations in your garden. All-round the year, others much later, and they will also
interest should be considered. Herb gardens flower at different times. Bear in mind
can look very bare in winter, so be sure to use foliage, colour and texture: you may wish to
some evergreen herbs such as rosemary, bay grade them or you might prefer to spread
(.Laurus no bills), hyssop and rue (Ruta them randomly throughout.
DESIGNING AND PLANNING A HERB GARDEN
FORMAL DESIGNS: The keynote of such a garden was its

KNOT GARDENS traditional uniformity, a result of the types of
Some formal, geometric herb gardens take hedging plants chosen and the way in which
the form of a knot, first recorded in the they were clipped.
fifteenth century. Originally contained within Ideas from these traditional knot gardens
a square- or rectangle-shaped plot, each knot can be adapted and included in today’s
pattern was precisely outlined by low, clipped smaller garden. Knot gardens also have the
hedges of evergreen herbs, such as box, advantage of the herbs being within easy
cotton lavender {Santolino, chamaecyparissus), reach for harvesting and upkeep. Although
hyssop and lavender. The designs themselves precision is vital to this kind of design, so is
were often taken from family crests, heraldic frequent maintenance so that the low hedges
devices, or the entwined initials of the remain trim and the whole geometrical
garden’s owners. symmetry neat.
A geometric herb garden in the form of a knot at The Red Lodge in Bristol, England
Planting suggestions
Hedges Medium-sized herbs

Box (Buxus sempervirens) Coriander [Coriandrum sativum)
Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus) Feverfew [Tanacetum parthenium formerly
Lavenders (lavandula) Chrysanthemum)
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis)
Shrubby germander (Teucrium fruticans) Lemon balm [Melissa officinalis)
Winter savory (Satureja montana) Mints (mentha)
Sages (salvia)
Tall herbs Sweet basil [Ocimum basilicum)
Angelica (Angelica archangelica) Tarragon [Artemisia dracunculus)
Elecampane [Inula helenium)
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) Short and edging herbs
Lovage [Levisticum officinale) Anise [Pimpinella anisum)
Mullein [Verbascum thapsus) Basil thyme [Acinos arvensis)
Chives [Allium schoenoprasum)
Centrepieces Double chamomile [Chamaemeium nobile 'Flore Pleno'}
Sundial, bird bath, statue, potted bay tree Parsley [Petroselinum crispum)
Pennyroyal [Mentha pulegium)
Paths Sweet marjoram [Origanum majorana)
Bricks, pebbles, gravel Thymes (thymus)
Examples of knot garden designs

Creating a knot garden

STAGE 1: Select your site and determine its You will need:
Measuring tape
measurements. Draw your proposed design
Humus/organic matter (see page 7]
to scale on graph paper. This will allow you
Ball of string
to visualize the size of the beds, to assess the
Short wooden stakes or pegs
proper placement of plants and to obtain a
Squeezable bottle of chalk dust
good, overall image of your knot.
Piece of wood with a right-angle
Selection of herbs
STAGE 2: Dig your soil, removing all
perennial weeds and large stones. Dig in
humus/rich organic matter as you go along. distances. Box (Buxus sempervirens), for
example, always a great favourite, needs a
STAGE 3: You are now ready to transfer the planting distance of 20cm (8in).When the
design to the plot. Working from your scaled edging herbs begin to spread, clip their tops,
paper plan, measure out the design on the and the sides that face the walks or beds, so that
ground. Mark it with the string and stakes/pegs, they are encouraged to grow more quickly.
then fill in the details with the chalk powder. If
you are making a square garden, double check STAGE 6: Once the hedging plants are in
that all sides of the plot are of equal length, and place, the beds can be planted with herbs,
that the corners are all at right angles, using the and the pathways laid.
piece of wood with a right-angle.
STAGE 7: Plant the evergreen and perennial
STAGE 4: Place the focal point - sundial, bird herbs first, remembering to give plenty of
bath, or formal rose bush - in the centre. thought to their foliage and flower colour.
When everything is planted, water in well
Stage 3: Plant the hedging herbs that will and keep watered until the herbs are well
outline and define your knot at their planting established.
Hedging of box, lavender or rosemary, surrounding beds of other herbs, is an essential for knot gardens
FORMAL DESIGNS: CHESSBOARD

A chessboard design uses paving slabs, Planting suggestions
attractively laid in a square chessboard
formation. The spaces between the paving Plant one herb per square
slabs, which are exactly the same size as the Borage [Borago officinalis)
slabs themselves, are left open to the soil and Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
are used for planting the herbs. German chamomile (Matricaria recutita)
Golden marjoram [Origanum vulgare
Creating a chessboard garden 'Au re u m')
Lavenders (lavandula)
Pineapple mint (Mentha suaveolens
You will need:
'Variegata')
Paving slabs, number depending on
size of design Purple leaved sage [Salvia officinalis
Ball of string 'Purpurascens')
Short wooden stakes or pegs Thymes:

Spirit level Caraway thyme [Thymus herba-barona)
Length of board Golden thyme [Thymus citriodorus 'Aureus')
Piece of wood with a right-angle Thyme [Thymus vulgaris 'Silver Rosie7)
Garden tools Variegated thyme [Thymus x citrodorus
Humus/organic matter [see page 7] 'Silver Queen')
Selection of herbs
A finished chessboard garden

STAGE 1: Select your site and determine its STAGE 8: Miss out a space of earth equal to
measurements, taking into account the the slab width and then lay your next stone.
number and size of the paving slabs you
intend to use. Remember to allow for STAGE 9: Repeat this procedure along the
possible breakages when buying the slabs. length of the plot, again resting the final slab
snugly against the string.
STAGE 2: Draw your plan to scale, marking in
position of paving slabs, areas of soil, focal
point and herb plantings.
STAGE 10: Start the second row by placing

the first slab in front of the first area of soil
in the completed row with the corners
Stage 3: Using string and stakes/pegs, mark touching, again using your spirit level.
out the whole area of your plot. Complete the row of alternate slabs and soil.
STAGE 4: Dig the soil, removing all perennial Stage 11: Lay the third row by again placing
weeds and large stones. Dig in humus/rich the first slab in front of the soil in the
organic matter as you go along. previous row and continue along, making
sure that the first and last slabs lay snugly
STAGE 3: Rake soil to a fine tilth and level against the string.
with the edge of the board to ensure that the

plot is quite flat. STAGE 12: Continue in this way until the
total area has been completed, leaving you
STAGE 6: If you are making a square garden, with a chessboard-effect herb garden.
check that all sides of the plot are of equal

length, and that the corners are all at right STAGE 13: Remove the string and stakes/pegs.
angles, using the wood with a right-angle. You can, if you wish, lay a gravel path, add
gravel around the edges, or plant a hedge
STAGE 7: Lay the first slab in the top left- around the chessboard using, for example,
hand corner, using the string as a guide. cotton lavender.
Make sure that it rests snugly against the

string. Using a spirit level, check that the slab STAGE 14: You are now ready to plant the
is level in all directions. If it isn’t, add or herbs. When planted, water in well and keep
remove a little soil underneath one corner. watered until the herbs are well established.
FORMAL DESIGNS:
HERB CARTWHEEL You will need:
Another bold, formal design is a herb Log rolls: the number will depend
cartwheel — an all-time favourite. The wheel upon the size of the rolls and of your
is treated with preservative, painted on one proposed wheel. Separate the logs
side with white exterior paint, and set lightly from the wire that holds them when
purchased, paint with preservative and
into the prepared soil. A variety of different
varnish with an exterior varnish or
herbs of similar heights and rates of growth
paint.
are planted between the spokes. This creates a
Flower pot or bulb bowl for the hub
quickly made miniature herb garden. Alterna¬
of the wheel, varnished or painted.
tively, because old wooden cartwheels are
Ball of string
both expensive and hard to come by, you
could make your own replica from halved log Wooden mallet
rolls of manageable size. Selection of herbs
Be aware of recommended planting
distances and divide or transfer plants to
another part of the garden if and when they Example size
outgrow the design, so that the cartwheel A diameter of 1.8m (6ft)
always looks neat and compact. Do not allow
it to become overgrown, straggly, or untidy. A herb wheel, about six weeks after planting
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Height 10-60cm (4-24in), spread 30cm (12in). Use three plants.
Compact marjoram (Origanum vulgare 'Compactum'): Height 15cm (6in), spread 30cm (12in).
Use three plants.
Corsican mint (Mentha requienii): Height 2-10cm (l-4in), spread indefinite. Use one plant.
Dwarf lavender [Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba'): Height 15-30cm (6-12in), spread 15-45cm (6-l8in).
Use two plants.
Golden lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus Aureus'): Height 10-I5cm (6-I2in), spread 60cm (24in).
Use one plant.
Marjoram [Origanum vulgare 'White Anniversary'): Height l5-25cm (6-10in), spread 15-20cm (6-8in).
Use four plants.
Nasturtium [Tropaeolum majus 'Alaska'): Height and spread 30cm (12in). Use three plants.
Parsley [Petroselinum crispum): Height 30-80cm (12—32in), sprea: 30cm (I2in). Use three plants.
Pennyroyal [Mentha pulegium): Height 10-40cm (4-16in), spread indefinite. Use one plant.
Creating a log-roll cartwheel
STAGE 2: Dig the soil, removing turf or gravel

STAGE1: Mark out the area using two (if necessary) and all perennial weeds and
wooden stakes/pegs and a piece of string. large stones. Dig in humus/rich organic
Attach the string to one of the pegs and matter as you go along. Remove some of the
plunge it into the ground at the centre of the topsoil, placing the topsoil on a sheet of
proposed circle. Attach the second peg to the polythene. Loosen the subsoil.
end of the string, at the required radius of the
circle. Holding the string taut, mark out the STAGE 3: Place the bulb bowl or flower pot at
circumference of the circle on the ground. the centre of the circle.
STAGE 4: Divide the circle into quarters by STAGE 6: Position the edging logs and tap
positioning the logs in the form of a cross. firmly with the mallet. Replace some of the
Tap into place. excavated topsoil into each of these segments.
STAGE 5: Place two more lines of logs STAGE 7: Plant the herbs, remembering to
diagonally so that you have eight separate allow for growth and spread. Water in well
segments of equal size, and tap into position. and keep watered until well established.
The herb wheel when

fully planted
FORMAL DESIGNS:
HERB LADDER Planting suggestions
An old wooden ladder can be used for this
design, but it should be treated with a Chives (Allium schoenoprasum):
preservative before use, and then stained or Height !0-60cm (4-24in), spread
painted on one side with exterior paint. Place 30cm (12in). Use two plants.
it in position in prepared soil and plant your Double chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile
herbs between the rungs of the ladder. 'Flore Pleno'):
Alternatively, bricks can be used to achieve Height 15cm (6in), spread 45cm
the same effect. The outside uprights of the (18in). Use one plant.
‘ladder’ should be positioned first and the Lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus):
brick ‘rungs’ fitted in afterwards. Height 25-30cm (10-12in), spread
60cm (24in). Use one plant.
Example size Parsley [Petroselinum crispum):
1.8m (6ft) long, giving six planting spaces of Height 30-80cm (12—32in), spread
38 x 30cm (15 x 12in). 30cm (12 in). Use three plants.
Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium):
Height 10-40cm (4-16in), spread
indefinite. Use one plant.
Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana):
Height 60cm (24in), spread 45cm (18in).
pennyroyal Use one plant.
thyme
sweet marjoram
chives
chamomile
parsley
Plan for herb ladder

SEMI-FORMAL DESIGNS: smaller plants to the front. The border can be

HERB BORDER edged with chives, parsley or thyme and
Planted in a well-drained, sunny position, a backed by medium-sized herbs such as cotton
border of mixed herbs will provide interest lavender, marjoram, winter savory or sweet
and colour to the garden. Those noted for cicely (.Myrrhis odorata). To avoid formal
their attractive foliage should be included, for planting, the herbs should be set out in
example tansy and the sages, along with those groups of three or five - uneven numbers are
with wonderful aromatic foliage such as best - any gaps being filled with colourful
rosemary and lavender. annuals such as blue borage or red poppies.
Herbs with taller habit should be planted
towards the back — angelica, lovage and Example size
elecampane are a few examples - with the 9.25m (30ft) long by 2.3m (7ft 6in) wide.
Key to illustration:
1 Comfrey 16 Borage
2 Cotton lavender 17 Sweet marjoram
3 Chives 18 Variegated lemon balm
4 Lovage 19 Feverfew
5 Golden marjoram 20 Tansy
6 Trailing nasturtium 21 Golden marjoram
7 Dill 22 Trailing nasturtiums
8 Cowslips 23 Angelica
9 Parsley 24 Sage
10 Rue 25 Sweet cicely
11 Pot marigolds 26 Mullein
12 Winter savory 27 Lavender
13 Chamomile 28 Poppies
14 Golden thyme 29 Rosemary
15 Elecampane 30 Thyme 'Silver Posie'
Lush growth in an informal corner herb bed
Tall herbs
Angelica (Angelica archangelica): Height l-2.5m (3—8ft), spread 45cm-l.ini (18-43in). Use one plant.
Elecampane (Inula helenium): Height 3m (10ft)7 spread 1.5m (5ft). Use one plant.
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare): Height 2m (6ft 6in), spread 45cm (I8in). Use one plant.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale): Height 2m (6ft 6in), spread 1m (39in). Use one plant.
Mullein (Verbascum thapsus): Height 2m (6ft 6in), spread lm (39in). Use two plants.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): Height and spread 2m (6ft 6in). Use one plant.
Medium-sized herbs
Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus): Height 20-50cm (8-20in), spread 60cm (24in). Use three.
Curry plant (Helichrysum italicum syn. H angustifolium): Height 60cm (24in), spread lm (39in). Use one.
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium formerly Chrysanthemum): Height 60cm (24in), spread 45cm (18in). Use three.
Golden marjoram [Origanum vulgare Aureum'): Height and spread 75cm (30in). Use three plants.
Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis): Height 45-60cm (18-24in), spread 60-90cm (24—36in). Use one plant.
Lemon balm [Melissa officinalis): Height 30-80cm (12—32in), spread 30-45cm (12-18in). Use five plants.
Mints (mentha): Height variable, spread indefinite. Use one plant.
Rue [Ruta graveolens): Height 60cm (24in), spread 45cm (18in). Use five plants.
Sages (salvia): Height and spread variable, depending on the species. Use three plants.
Sweet cicely [Myrrhis odorata): Height l-2m (3—6ft 6in), spread 60cm-l.2m (2—4ft). Use one plant.
Tarragon [Artemisia dracunculus): Height 45cm-lm (18-39in), spread 30-38cm (12-15in). Use three.
Winter savory [Satureja montana): Height 10-40cm (4-16in), spread 7-20cm (3-8in). Use five plants.
Colourful annuals
Borage [Borago officinalis): Height 30cm-lm (!2-39in), spread 15-30cm (6-12in). Use three plants.
Poppies (papaver): Height and spread variable, depending on the species. Use three plants.
Pot marigold [Calendula officinalis): Height and spread 50-70cm (20-28in). Use two plants.
Small plants
Cowslips [Primula veris)’. Height and spread 15-20cm (6—8in). Use five plants.
Heartsease or wild pansies [Viola tricolor): Height and spread 38cm (15in). Use three plants.
Primroses [Primula vulgaris): Height 15cm (6in), spread 25cm (lOin). Use five plants.
Edging herbs
Chives [Allium schoenoprasum): Height 10-60cm (4-24in), spread 30cm (12in). Use two plants.
Double chamomile [Chamaemelum nobile 'Flore Pleno'): Height 15cm (6in), spread 45cm (18in). Use three.
Parsley [Petroselinum crispum): Height 30-80cm (12—32in), spread 30cm (12 in). Use two plants.
Thymes (thymus): Height and spread variable, depending on species. Use two plants.
Trailing nasturtium [Tropaeolum majus 'Trailing Mixed*)- Height 4-6in (10-15cm), spread up to
2m (6ft 6in). Use three plants.
INFORMAL HERB GARDENS

Whether by accident or design, herb beds are
usually informal because many herbs fail to
know their proper limits. An informal garden
can be beautiful as plants jostle for space and
overflow on to pathways, but you will need
to take care that your herbs don’t get out of
control. When planning an informal herb
garden, follow your own intuition rather
than a regular plan or pattern as informal
gardens tend to obscure boundaries. Planting
should be close so that no soil is visible once
the plants are established. Herbs that self¬
seed — foxglove {Digitalispurpurea), evening
primrose {Oenothera biennis) and borage, for
example - will grow on in a random fashion.
Remember to plant in informal groupings.
An informal, old-fashioned herb garden that

illustrates the beauty of plants jostling for space
and overflowing on to pathways
Herbs may also be planted informally in beds

with other ornamental plants; a useful ploy
when you do not have enough space for a
separate herb garden. A charming idea is to
include those herbs that will attract
butterflies and bees: common or English
lavender {Lavandula angustifolia) and pink
carnation (dianthus), for instance.
Example size
6.75 (22ft) long by x 3.4m (lift) wide.
This is a large herb bed and will need to have
stepping stones placed randomly within the
Part of an informal herb garden, showing the design to give access to the herbs for
interest, texture and form that herbs can provide harvesting and general maintenance.
Key to illustration:
1 Lovage 18 Pot marigold
2 Angelica 19 Lemon balm
3 Golden rod 20 Hyssop

4 Elecampane 21 Lavender
5 Mullein 22 Scented leaf
6 Bronze fennel geranium
7 Southernwood 23 Thyme
8 Curry plant 24 Feverfew
9 Mint 25 Pinks
10 St John's wort 26 Chives
11 Marshmallow 27 Pennyroyal
12 Salad burnet 28 Lily of the valley
13 Poppies 29 Heartsease
14 Rue 30 Chamomile
15 Cumin
16 Marjoram
17 Sage
Backdrop: Wall, trellis or hedge
Tall herbs
Angelica (Angelica archangelica): Height l-2.5m (3—8ft), spread 45cm-l.lm (18—43in). Use one plant.
Bronze fennel (Foenicalum vulgare 'Purpureum'): Height 1.2—1.5m (4—5ft), spread 45cm (18in). Use
one plant.
Elecampane [Inula helenium): Height 3m (10ft), spread 1.5m (5ft). Use one plant.
Foxglove [Digitalis purpurea): Height l-2m, 2m in 2nd year (3—6ft 6in, 6ft 6in in 2nd year), spread
25cm (lOin). Use five plants.
Golden rod [Solidago virgaurea): Height to 1.5m (5ft), spread 45-60cm (18—24in). Use three plants.
Lovage [Levisticum officinale): Height 2m (6ft 6in), spread Im (39in). Use one plant.
Marsh mallow [Althaea officinalis): Height l-1.2m (39-47in), spread 60-90cni (24-36in). Use one plant.
Mullein [Verbascum thapsus): Height 2m (6ft 6in), spread lm (39in). Use three plants, in an uneven group.
Medium-sized herbs
Curry plant [Helichrysum italicum syn. H. angustifolium): Height 60cm (24in), spread lm (39in). Use one plant.
English lavender [Lavandula angustifolia): Height and spread 60-90cm (24-36in). Use two plants.
Evening primrose [Oenothera biennis): Height 30cm-l.5m (1—5ft), spread 22.5-30cm (9—12in). Use five plants.
Feverfew [Tanacetum parthenium formerly Chrysanthemum): Height 60cm (24in), spread 45cm (18in). Use
three plants.
Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis): Height 45-60cm (18-24in), spread 60-90cm (24-36in). Use three plants.
Lemon balm [Melissa officinalis): Height 30-80cm (12—32in), spread 30-45cni (12—18in). Use three plants.
Rue [Ruta graveolens): Height 60cm (24in), spread 45cm (18in). Use three plants.
Sage [Salvia officinalis): Height 60-80cm (24-32in), spread lm (39in). Use one plant.
St John's wort [Hypericum perforatum): Height 30-60cm (12-24in), spread 15-45cm (6—18in). Use five
plants.
Salad burnet [Sanguisorba minor): Height to 75cm (30in), spread 30cm (12in). Use five plants.
Southernwood [Artemisia abrotanum): Height Im (39in), spread 30-60cm (12-24in). Use three plants.
Spearmint [Mentha spicata): Height 30cm-lm (12-39in), spread indefinite. Use one plant.
Thyme [Thymus vulgaris): Height 30-45cm (12-I8in), spread 60cm (24in). Use two plants.
Wild marjoram [Origanum vulgare): Height and spread 45cm (I8in). Use three plants.
Plants for infilling

Borage [Borago officinalis): Height 30cm-lm (12-39in), spread l5-30cm (6-l2in). Use five plants.
Field poppy [Papaver rhoas): Height 20-90cm (8-36in), spread 10-45cm (4-18in). Use five plants.
Pot marigold [Calendula officinalis): Height and spread 50-70cm (20-28in). Use two plants.
Scented-leaf geraniums (eg Nutmeg geranium, Pelargonium 'Fragrans'): Height and spread 45cm (18 in).
Use four plants.
Small plants
Apple pelargonium (Pelargonium odoratissimum}: Height 30cm (12in), spread 15-45cm (6-l8in). Use
three plants.
Cumin (Cuminum cyminum): Height 15-30cm (6-12in), spread 8-10cm (3-4in). Use seven plants.
German chamomile (Matricaria recutita): Height 15-30cm (6-24in), spread 10-38cm (4-l5in). Use five.
Heartsease/wild pansies (Viola tricolor): Height and spread 38cm (15in). Use three plants.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba'): Height 15-30cm (6-12in), spread 15-45cm (6-I8in). Use
three plants.
Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis): Height 22.5-30cm (9-l2in), spread indefinite. Use two plants.
Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana): Height and spread to 45cm (18in).
Use two plants.
Edging herbs
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Height 10-60cm (4-24in), spread 30cm (12in). Use five plants.
Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium): Height 10-40cm (4-16in), spread indefinite. Use one or two plants.
Pinks/carnations (eg Dianthus chinensis 'Strawberry Parfait'): Height and spread 20cm (8in). Use
five plants.
Rock hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis subsp. aristatus): Height and spread 30cm (12in). Use two plants.
Thymes (eg Red-flowered thyme Thymus serpyllum coccineus): Height l-7.5cm (l/2-3in), spread lm
(39in). Use one plant.
HERB GARDEN MAINTENANCE Rotting vegetation also harbours pests and
Once your garden is established, you will find diseases, so remove it. It may also be
its general upkeep and maintenance relatively necessary to give plants that need formal
easy. Usually, a weekly meander around, shaping several clips a year until you achieve
weeding, harvesting, clipping and dead the required shape. Cut back withered or
heading more than suffices. broken branches to soil level to help
During the summer months, the occasional strengthen the plant. Weeds are seldom a
organic feed can be given. By and large, all but problem as herbs are rampant growers.
the moisture-loving herbs (such as sweet cicely, Annual herbs should be dug up at the end
sorrel (Rumex acetosa), mint, bergamot and of the growing season. Perennials should be
comfrey) will tolerate dry conditions for short cut off at their base; stake them and write the
periods, but all herbs do need to be watered name of each one on a marker, placing the
occasionally, particularly angelica and parsley. marker close to each plant, so that you will
The application of a mulch - for example know what is going to come up in that
chipped bark, cocoa shell, gravel or coarse grit particular spot the following year. Evergreens
- will help to conserve water in the soil. should also be cut back vigorously. For winter
Herbs need regular dead heading of protection in colder parts of the country,
flowers, and dead and shrivelled leaves need apply a layer of straw to your herb garden,
to be nipped off to deter pests and diseases. beds and borders.

2 CHOOSING HERBS FOR
A GARDEN
The herbs you intend to grow are a matter of Parsley

personal taste although the number and size Parsley, which grows to a height of 30-45cm
will be dictated by the space available. But (12-18in), is a native of central and southern
whatever you grow, the cultural needs and Europe and is biennial, but grows better if
habits of your plants must come first. So how treated as an annual. It has curled, crisp,
do you go about choosing which herbs to green leaves, and the flowers, which are
plant? A small selection of the well-known produced in flat sprays during the second
favourites will give you a good starting point year, are greenish-yellow. First-year plants
and then you can go on to build up your produce finer, more succulent leaves than
collection as your knowledge and expertise second-year ones.
grow. Start with the ‘big five’: parsley, chives, The bright green, crimply leaved variety,
mint, thyme and rosemary. These are all easy- Petroselinum crispum, is the most commonly
care herbs that are simple to grow, will give grown form, although the seed is notoriously
you a useful stock, and will thrive with slow to germinate, particularly when the
comparatively little effort on your part. weather is wet, sometimes taking eight weeks.
Parsley, with its crisp, curled leaves, is a rich source of vitamin C and is best known as a culinary herb.
It is a biennial and makes a good edging plant for beds and borders
CHOOSING HERBS FOR A GARDEN 27
Germination can be encouraged by soaking Chives are easy to grow. Seed can be sown
the seed in warm water and by pouring outdoors in spring in drills 25cm (lOin)
boiling water on to the soil before sowing. apart and the seedlings thinned to about
In order to ensure a constant supply of this 15cm (6in) apart. Seed sown outside usually
useful herb, seed should be sown twice a takes in excess of two weeks to germinate.
year: in early spring, for a summer crop, and Seed can also be planted in trays in the
again in mid-summer for winter use. greenhouse or directly into pots.
Parsley likes a fairly rich, non-acid, well- Germination under glass at 21 °C (70°F) will
drained soil with plenty of moisture. A take around six days. Chive seedlings grow as
certain amount of sun is important, but the small, white bulbs with a thin, tapering,
herb will only grow well when its roots are green shoot protruding from them. This
cool, so it should be shaded for part of the small bulb produces new bulbs, so several
day. Dig the soil thoroughly, rake to a fine seedlings can be planted together without
tilth, and sow the seed thinly in rows 30cm fear of overcrowding. Chives like a rich,
(12in) apart, covering them lightly with soil. moist but well-drained soil and they also
When large enough to handle, the seedlings prefer a little shade. Chives grow in clumps
should be pricked out to a distance of 20cm and should be divided every two or three
(8in). Handle carefully to prevent injury to years in spring. Always water well after
the roots which could cause the plants to run replanting and trim the tops to encourage the
to seed. Parsley can also be grown in pots: see growth of new leaves. Remove the flowers to
Chapter 4, page 63. encourage leaf production.

Parsley should be kept free from weeds and
watered liberally during periods of dry
weather. Cut out the flowering stems during
the second year - the plant dies after
producing seed - to encourage the
production of leaves and to lengthen the
period of useful life. Pick the foliage
regularly, leaving only the green centre of the
plant. If you intend to harvest your own
seed, leave a few of the plants to flower.
Chives
Chives (.Allium schoenoprasum) are perennial
bulbous plants, and with their pretty, clover¬
like, pinkish-purple flowers that appear in
early to mid-summer and their grass-like
foliage, they make lovely garden plants in
their own right. The tubular leaves, which
grow to a height of 23-30cm (9-12in), are
evergreen in most climates, but can die back Chives are hardy perennials that will grow in some
completely in less mild winters. shade and can be grown in tubs and pots
have ovate, lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate

leaves and lilac, pink or white flowers. They
prefer a moist, rich soil in a shady place, but
will grow almost anywhere. Plant different
varieties well apart to avoid cross-flavouring.
When it comes to flavour, there are really
just two types: peppermint and spearmint.
Peppermint has long, hairy, purplish-green
leaves, while spearmint, probably the best
known of the culinary mints, has narrow,
pointed, green leaves and lilac flowers. It
usually grows to around 30—40cm (12—1 (Sin)
in height.
Thyme
There are many varieties of thyme, but
Thymus vulgaris is the garden or common
thyme most often seen in gardens. It is a
small, aromatic, shrubby evergreen, hardy
perennial herb, growing up to 45cm (18in)
Spearmint is a common culinary mint in height. It has woody stems, small, dark
green leaves and pale mauve flowers that
appear in early summer. It likes a light, well-
Mint drained, gravelly soil and a sunny, warm
There are many different varieties of mints, position. It can easily be raised from seed
the best known ones being: applemint sown in spring. Press the seed into the surface
(Mentha suaveolens), Bowles mint (M. of the compost in a seed tray and transplant
rotundifolia), Eau de Cologne mint (M. x the seedlings to 30-45cm (12-18in) apart
piperita ‘Citrata’), peppermint (M. piperita) when large enough to handle. Thymes are
and spearmint (M. spicata). All mints have a ideal for planting in pots.
strong, aromatic smell, grow rapidly and Propagation is from cuttings taken in mid¬
spread by underground runners, making summer with a ‘heel’ attached, which are
them very invasive. They need plenty of then rooted in pots of sandy soil in a cold
water when growing and they also need to be frame (see page 48). Tip cuttings can be
kept firmly under control. They are best taken in summer and the plants can also be
planted in a bottomless bucket or pot which divided in spring. Alternatively, plants can be
has been sunk into the soil up to its rim (see layered. Cut the plants well back in mid¬
page 54). Mints are good for container summer, and in autumn to free them of old
planting as they are so invasive; planting in wood and keep them bushy. Shelter from the
pots keeps them under control. cold and wind is important. Thyme is
Mints are perennials that can be grown unlikely to survive a hard winter, although it
from seed or from root divisions. They can can withstand drought in summer.
Seed sown in trays under glass in mid- to late

spring will produce decent plants by autumn.
The seed can also be planted in shallow drills
in mid- to late spring. Plants can be grown
from ‘soft’, not woody, cuttings taken from
strong side shoots from early spring to early
autumn. The rooted cuttings can be over¬
wintered in the greenhouse.
Rosemary is hardy except in severe weather
conditions and wet soil; cold, frosty weather
can destroy it completely. It is extremely
decorative and can be planted as a single
specimen. It also makes a good hedge, and
can be grown in a pot.
Garden thyme [Thymus vulgaris] is most useful in

the kitchen
Rosemary
Rosemary (.Rosmarinus officinalis) is a
perennial, evergreen shrub with long, spiky
leaves and a pungent, aromatic scent. Its
small, pale blue flowers start to appear in late
winter if the weather is mild, and continue
until late spring.
It will grow outdoors to a height of 2m
(6ft 6in) in a sheltered spot, and prefers a
light, well-drained soil, with the benefit of
some lime - try sprinkling some crushed egg
shells around it - in a sunny position. It will
grow well against a wall, often growing taller,
although it tends to grow sideways once it
has reached its maximum height.
Rosemary is difficult to cultivate from
seed, but if you are successful the plants will Rosemary can be grown in a large pot, or makes
be better than those raised from cuttings. a good hedge if clipped after flowering
EFFORTLESS ANNUALS AND

BIENNIALS
Annuals
Annuals and those herbs which self-seed
(treated as annuals for the purpose of
cultivation) are grown from seed each spring.
Biennials
Biennials are grown from seed and are so
called because they take two years to
complete their life cycle. Usually, they flower
and produce seed during the second year, but Caraway, a biennial, flowers in its second year
it is possible to keep them growing as
perennials for several years simply by
removing their flower heads. You can, of
course, allow some of the plants to set their Common annual herbs
seed and produce seedlings, after which you Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
can select the strongest ones and plant them Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
in a position suited to their needs. Borage [Borago officinalis)
Chervil [Anthriscus cerefolium)
Common balsam [Impatiens balsamina)
Coriander [Coriandrum sativum)
Dill [Anethum graveolens also
Peucedanum graveolens)
Nasturtium (tropaeolum)
Rocket [Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Summer savoury [Satureja hortensis)
Sunflower [Helianthus annuus)
Sweet marjoram [Origanum majorana)
Common biennial herbs

Angelica [Angelica archangelica)
Caraway [Carum carvi)
Clary sage [Salvia sclarea)
Cotton thistle [Onopordon acanthium)
Evening primrose [Oenothera biennis)
Mullein [Verbascum thapsus)
Parsley [Petroselinum crispum), usually treated
as an annual
Many herbs are very decorative, as well as useful Viper's bugloss [Echium vulgare)
for culinary purposes
PERENNIALS root runners. Perennial herbs can be

Perennials are a large group of herbs that live propagated by several methods, including
for several years or more. Some of them can cuttings, and, if you increase your own stock
be grown from seed, although they may take in this way, you will not have to buy potted
three to four weeks to germinate when sown perennials, which will cut down your
under glass in early spring. Many of them expenses considerably.
also grow well when sown in late summer or In moderate and cold climates, most
early autumn as soon as the seeds are ripe: perennial herbs will die back at the end of
sweet cicely and lovage, for example. the summer and virtually disappear into the
Most perennial herbs are either shrubs or soil, their root systems remaining
herbaceous perennials (those we consider underground. If you live in a cold area,
more for their visual effect). They are protect your plants over winter with a layer
generally sold in pots for planting directly of organic mulch (such as spent mushroom
where they are to grow. Shrubby perennials, compost, seaweed, dried lawn clippings or
such as bay, rosemary and sage, should be garden compost). Such mulches will not only
planted out in early spring or late autumn in protect them from frosts, but will also
humus-rich soil. provide nutrients valuable to them. In spring,
Once perennial herbs are established, many the herbs will reappear and should be
of them can be increased by division - chives, mulched again to encourage leaf growth and
for instance - or, as in the case of mint, by later flowers.
Tansy is an invasive perennial that is very easy to grow. If it self-seeds, tiny plants will appear everywhere
HERBS FOR SHADE

Common perennial herbs Many herbs will grow in either sunny or
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) shady places. A shady part of the garden,
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) under a tree, for example, hardly seems
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) conducive to growing herbs, but, in actual
Rue [Ruta graveolens) fact, there are many herbs, particularly those
Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata) with medicinal uses, that will tolerate or even
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) prefer shade.
Herbs grown in shade do flower, but their
blooms are often of poor quality, and they
also usually flower very early in the year.
Shade reduces the range of herbs that you
can grow, but there is a wide variety of
culinary, ornamental and other herbs that
will flourish in shady spots.
A heavily shaded herb patch will most
happily have woodland perennials as its
inmates. It will be at its brightest from late
winter to early spring. The first to flower will
Lemon balm is a useful ingredient of potpourri be the woodland hellebores (helleborus) and
the herb lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis),
followed by violet and woodruff, then lily of
the valley, Jacob’s ladder (.Polemonium
caeruleum) and Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum
multiflorum).
Fennel needs plenty of room to grow Lungwort or pulmonaria appears early in spring
Herbs for partial shade

Herbs for heavy shade There are other herbs that will flower later
Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) and prefer a dappled shade: angelica, for
Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) example. Lovage also prefers some shade to
Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) develop its large leaves, and sorrel thrives in
Sweet violet (Viola odorata) shade, producing better leaves in
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) consequence. Light or gold variegated herbs
Woodruff (Calium odoratum) such as golden marjoram, golden sage and
variegated lemon balm prefer dappled shade,
and they also benefit from the sun not
Herbs enjoying damp shade scorching their foliage. Chervil is also fond of
Some herbs enjoy a position with damp shady places, as is borage.
shade: ginger mint (.Mentha x gracilis
‘Variegata’), for example. Given these
conditions, ginger mint will bear long, red Other herbs for partial shade
stems with lilac flowers between its green and Fig wort (Scrophularia nodosa)
gold leaves from early summer to autumn. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Both creeping pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis)
‘Cunningham Mint’) and upright pennyroyal Musk mallow (Malva moschata)
(.Mentha pulegium) will become a carpet of Rocket (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
scented leaves along paths and banks, and St John's wort (Hypericum perforatum)
other herbs such as elecampane (Inula Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata)
helenium) and bugle (Ajuga reptans) will Wild honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum)
flourish in a moist, shady position.
Ginger mint will flower readily in damp shade Borage enjoys a shady position
34 BEGINNERS' guide to herb gardening
TALL AND MEDIUM HERBS

There is a whole range of architectural,
statuesque herbs which are ideal for the
herbaceous border. When planning a herb
border, plant the tallest herbs at the back in
clumps rather than in rows for a cottage
garden effect. If planting an island bed that
can be viewed from all round, plant them in
the centre to prevent them from
overshadowing the smaller plants. Tall herbs
can be slotted in anywhere in the garden, to
hide a fence or wall, or placed in the
vegetable garden, for example. Bear in mind
that tall herbs need plenty of space around
them, so allow about 60cm (2ft) between
them when planting.
Foxgloves look majestic at the back of a border
Common tall herbs

Angelica (Angelica archangelica) can
reach 1.2-1.8m (4—6ft)
Chicory [Cichorium intybus) will grow to 1.2m
(4ft) but usually needs staking
Elecampane {Inula helenium) can reach 1.2-1.8m
(4—6ft)
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), which will grow to
1.5m (5ft), shouldn't need support because
of its upright habit.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale), can reach l.2-l.8m
(4-6ft); may need staking despite its
strong, upright growth
Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) will grow to
1.5m (5ft)
If space permits, you might include

Bay (Laurus nobilis)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum)
Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis)
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium)
Yellow-flowering mullein grows to 1.5m [5ft]
Herbs of medium height Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)

Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) Mint (mentha)
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Marjoram (origanum)
Borage (Borago officinalis) Pot marjoram (Origanum onites)
Caraway (Carum carvi) Rampion (Campanula rapunculus)
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) Rue (Ruta graveolens)
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) Sages (salvia)
Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus) St John's wort (Hypericum perforatum)
Curry plant (Helichrysum italicum syn. Sorrel (Rumex acetosa)
H. angusdfolium) Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum)
Dill (Anethum graveolens also Peucedanum graveolens) Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata)
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium formerly Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)
Chrysanthemum) Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Ho re hound (Marrubium vulgare) Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)
Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis) Viper's bugloss (Echium vulgare)
Lavender (lavandula) Winter savory (Satureja montana)
Sorrel is a useful plant for the middle of a herb Golden feverfew is a beautiful, decorative herb
border, or even a flower bed that grows to a height of about 45cm (18in)
LOW-GROWING HERBS
Low-growing herbs are best located in the Low-growing plants:
front of the garden where they will get plenty to 45cm (18in)
of sun. They are also useful for edging beds Perennials
or paths. You might like to try the white Bistort (Polygonum bistorta)'
flowering lavender Lavandula angustifolia Gala mint [Calamintha officinalis)
‘Nana Alba', which is very low-growing, Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
reaching a height of 15-30cm (6-12in). To Double chamomile (Cbamaemelum nobile
enclose a herb garden, a hedge of clipped box 'Flore Pleno')
is neat and attractive, as is lavender. One of Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana)
the best varieties of lavender for hedging is Thyme (thymus)
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Royal Purple’, with its Winter savory (Satureja montana)
deep purple flowers and compact habit,
growing to a height of 80cm (32in). Annuals and biennials
Paths can be softened by cascading thymes, Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
chamomile, Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) Basils (ocimum)
and creeping winter savory (Satureja Cumin (Cuminum cyminum)
spicigera). Pennyroyal and sweet marjoram are Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
also low-growing, although their flower stems
can rise above the main level of the plant.
Chives and parsley make attractive edges PROSTRATE HERBS
for beds and borders, and rock hyssop Prostrate herbs grow rampantly to produce a
(.Hyssopus officinalis subsp. aristatus) is ideal dense carpet of foliage and often a mass of
for planting in paving or for rock gardens as. flowers as well. They can be used to cover
it only grows to 20-30cm (8-12in) tall. unsightly areas of bare earth, to suppress
weeds and to soften any harsh features. They
are very effective in the herb garden, and
there are varieties of prostrate herbs for both
sunny and shady areas. There are also many
suitable for paths, but they need to be
enclosed by small pieces of brick or slate to
prevent them encroaching on the herb beds.
Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) will
cover paths and paving slabs with a scented
carpet of flowers and foliage. It will soften
cracks, smother banks and thrive on the tops
of walls.
Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) will
flourish under shrubs and trees, as will
woodland herbs such as woodruff (Galium
odoratum) with its spreading mass of starry,
Low-growing Corsican mint white flowers.
HERB THEMES
Over the centuries, herbs have been used in Potpourri garden
many different ways, all of which provide an planting suggestions
open-ended source of ideas for herb themes, Alecost (Tanacetum balsaminta)
which can range from a Biblical Herb Bergamot (Monarda didyma)
Garden to one that grows salad herbs. Herbs Borage (Borago officinalis)
adapt to a number of themes and designs, Carnations (Dianthus chinensis 'Strawberry Parfait7)
but whatever you decide upon, always Catmint (Nepeta cataria)
establish where your garden is going to be German chamomile (Matricaria recutita)
sited and always plan it to scale on paper Ginger mint (Mentha x gracilis 'Variegata')
before you start. Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)
Lavender (lavandula)
POTPOURRI GARDEN Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
Plant a potpourri garden and you will have Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla)
the scents of summer all winter long. Try Pennyroyal [Mentha pulegium)
growing peonies for their strong red flowers Peony [Paeonia officinalis)
and pinks for their truly wonderful scent. Pineapple sage [Salvia elegans 'Scarlet Pineapple7)
Lavender also makes a lovely aromatic Rose, climbing (/tosa'Rosy Mantle7)
addition, as does Eau de Cologne mint that Rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis)
goes so well with the lemon herbs. Violets are Scented leaf geraniums (pelargonium)
ideal for their perfume and colour as is Southernwood [Artemisia abrotanum)
lemon balm with its clean fresh smell. And, Thyme (thymus)
as a backdrop to this type of garden, grow Variegated lemon balm [Melissa officinalis 'Aurea')
wonderfully fragrant roses and sweetly Violets [Viola odorata)
scented honeysuckle.
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DYER'S GARDEN
If you are interested in spinning and weaving Dyer's garden planting suggestions
and dyeing your own wools, what better than
to have your own dye herbs so that you can For reds
mix your own colours? Dyer's bugloss [Alkanna tinctoria)
Dyer's madder roots [Rubia tinctorum}
Lady's bedstraw (Galium verum)
Rue {Ruta graveolens)
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa)
For blues
Berries of the elder tree (Sambucus nigra)
Berries of privet (Ligustram vulgare)
Woad leaves [Ivatis tinctoria}
Indigo [Indigofera tinctoria)
Berries of juniper {Juniperus communis)
For greens
Ivy [Hedera helix)
Lily of the valley [Convallaria majalis)
Nettles (Urtica urens]
St John's wort [Hypericum perforatumJ
The petals of pot marigold produce a pale yellow Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare)
dye, earning it a place in a dyer's garden
For bright yellows
Agrimony [Agrimonia eupatoria)
Broom [Cytisus scoparius)
Golden rod [Solidago virgaurea]
Lily of the valley [Convallaria majalis)
Tansy flowers [Tanacetum vulgare)
Thyme (thymus)
For softer yellows

Apples [Maius sylvestris var. domestica)
Daffodil (narcissus)
Dandelion [Taraxacum officinale)
Pears [Pyrus communis var. sativa)
Pot marigold [Calendula officinalis)
For black
Common gypsyweed or gipsywort [Lycopus Roots of meadowsweet [Filipendula ulmaria)
europaeus) will yield a brown dye
MEDICINAL GARDEN The number and variety of herbs that you

Medicinal herbs were widely used in the past, plant will depend on the size of the garden.
but no one should ever attempt to treat Do not overcrowd the beds.
themselves with any medicinal herbs without Tall herbs are planted towards the centre as
first seeking advice from a qualified herbalist. the garden will be viewed from all sides.
Medicinal garden planting German chamomile [Matricaria recutita)

suggestions Golden rod (Solidago virgaurea)
Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) Good King Henry [Chenopodium bonus-henricus)
Borage [Borago officinalis) Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis)
Caraway (Carum cam) Lungwort [Pulmonaria officinalis)
Catmint (Nepeta cataria) Marsh mallow [Althaea officinalis)
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Mints (mentha)
Clary sage (Salvia sclarea] Pennyroyal [Mentha pulegium)
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) Rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis)
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium formerly Rue [Ruta graveolens)
Chrysanthemum) Sages (salvia)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare)
Garlic (Allium sativum) Thymes (thymus)
TEA GARDEN
Growing herbs to make herbal teas or tisanes Tea garden planting suggestions
is not difficult. They make delicious drinks Angelica (Angelica archangelica}
served hot, cold or iced. Some are slightly Fennel {Foeniculum vuigare)
stimulating, many are tonics. They are a Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis)
pleasant alternative to tea and coffee and Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
don’t contain tannin or caffeine. Before Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla)
drinking a herbal tea, always check with a Mints (mentha)
qualified herbal practitioner, as people Ginger mint [M. x gracilis 'Variegata')
suffering from certain medical conditions Peppermint [M. piperita)
should not drink particular teas. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sages (salvia)
Thymes (thymus)
Plan of a tea garden
Key to illustration: 10 Violets EVERLASTING HERB GARDEN

1 Angelica 11 Lavender There are many herbs that can be successfully
2 Basil 12 Rosemary harvested and dried, in order to bring their
3 Chamomile 13 Borage rich scents and colours into the house during
4 Thymes 14 Lemon verbena
the long winter months. The following
5 Bergamot 15 Hyssop
selection of herbs will remind you of summer
6 Ginger mint 16 Thymes
days and, when dried (see pages 147-51),
7 Sage 17 Fennel
they can all be used in flower arrangements.
8 Comfrey 18 Peppermint
9 Lemon balm
They dry easily, retaining both their shape
19 Woodruff
and colour.
Everlasting garden
planting suggestions
Bergamot (Monarda didyma)
Borage (Borago officinalis)
Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus)
Hops (Humulus iupulus)
Lavender (lavandula)
Love-in-the-mist (Nigella damascena)
Poppies (papaver)
Purple leaved sage (Salvia officinalis
'Purpurascens')
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) Dog rose [Rosa canina] adds colour to any garden
Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare}
Shakespearean garden
SHAKESPEAREAN HERB GARDEN planting suggestions
The Elizabethans valued herbs very highly Bay (Laurus nobilis)
and Shakespeare mentioned them frequently Caraway (Carum cam)
in his plays. He wrote of‘hot lavender’ and Chamomile, lawn (Chamaemelum nobile
‘rosemary for remembrance’, as well as rue 'Treneague')
which he called ‘the sour herb of grace’. Cowslip (Primula veris)
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Heartsease [Viola tricolor)
Iris [Iris florentina)
Lavender (lavandula]
Lemon balm [Melissa officinalis)
Marjoram (origanum)
Myrtle [Myrtus communis)
Parsley [Petroselinum crispum)
Pinks (dianthus)
Rose (rosa)
Rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis)
Rue [Ruta graveolens)
Salad burnet [Sanguisorba minor)
Savory (satureja)
Thyme, creeping [Thymus serpyllum)
Violet [Viola odorata)
Wild honeysuckle [Lonicera periclymenum)
Wormwood [Artemisia absinthium)
Heartsease was popular in Shakespearean times
3 PROPAGATION, PRUNING,
PESTS AND DISEASES
GROWING FROM SEED

Many herbs can be raised from seed, Some herbs to grow from seed
although there are some exceptions. Al! annual herbs are raised from seed, as
Tarragon, for instance, rarely sets seed and are biennials.
has to be propagated by means of its creeping Among the perennials worth growing from
underground stems. seed are:
Growing from seed gives you a greater Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
variety of plants, is much cheaper, and allows Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium
you to experiment with different species. formerly Chrysanthemum)
(Obviously, if you only need one plant, then Lovage (Levisticum officinale}
it’s more economical to buy it.) You dont Marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis)
need a greenhouse to grow seed, but if you Oregano, also known as wild marjoram
have one, so much the better, as it provides a (Origanum vulgare)
protected environment that will allow you to
over-winter plants and to encourage tender
seedlings into early growth.
All seed should be as fresh as possible if order catalogue rather than from a local
you are to be sure that it is going to garden centre where it may not have been
germinate and sprout. It is therefore worth stored in ideal conditions. National seed
considering buying your seed from a mail- suppliers provide the freshest seeds possible.
Dill bears umbels of yellow flowers in summer Nasturtium seeds can be pickled and eaten
PROPAGATION, PRUNING, PESTS AND DISEASES 43
ANNUALS
Sowing seed directly into soil
Hardy annuals are easy to grow because they
can be planted where they are to flower. Sow
seed directly into the prepared soil in spring
and thin according to the directions on the
seed packet. Borage, chervil, dill, coriander
and summer savory are all hardy annuals that
can be treated in this way. Or why not try
pot marigolds or poppies which will provide
wonderful splurges of colour?
STAGE 1: Make sure that your site has been

well dug and is free from weeds and stones.
Rake the soil level, breaking up any clumps
of earth, until a fine tilth is obtained. Annual poppies are grown for their vibrant colour
STAGE 2: Using a hoe, make shallow drills

6mm (Min) deep at a spacing according to Stage 2: Rake it in, first in one direction,
the variety of herb. Sow the seed as evenly as then at right-angles.
possible along the drills. It’s a good idea to
pour it into a dish and to scatter it a pinch at STAGE 3: Thin the seedlings as before and
a time, using your thumb and forefinger. keep well watered in dry weather.
STAGE 3: Label each variety and the date Sowing in pots or cold frame
when sown, then rake the soil level to cover Hardy annuals sown in pots or in a cold frame
the seed. in autumn flower earlier than those sown
outside. They can be hardened off and planted
STAGE 4: Water in dry weather until the seed to fill any gaps in the herb garden or border.
is well established. Many of the annuals can be sown a month
or so earlier if you have a greenhouse or cold
STAGE 5: Thin the seedlings according to the frame, and these will be ready to plant out
requirements of the variety, leaving them once the danger of frost is over; later sowings
spaced at the distance recommended on the will give a succession of colour throughout
seed packet. the year.
Broadcast sowing STAGE 1: Sow seed thinly on moistened
If you intend to plant groups of one type of compost in seed trays in a gentle heat in late
herb, then the seed can be sown broadcast. winter or early spring. Fine seed should be
pressed down lightly with a piece of wood,
STAGE 1: Scatter the seed over the designated larger seeds being covered with a thin layer of
area as evenly as possible. compost. Sow one variety per tray.

STAGE 2: Label each variety clearly and add

the date.
STAGE 3: Cover the trays with clear plastic,

glass or polythene. Place newspaper on top to
eliminate light.
STAGE 4: When the seedlings appear — about

one week later, depending upon the variety -
remove the newspaper and coverings.
STAGE 3: Prick out the seedlings when they

have two pairs of leaves.
STAGE 6: When large enough, harden them

off. Plant them out in their permanent
growing positions in late spring or early Sweet violets germinate after a period of cold
summer, when all danger of frost has passed.
Many of the annuals only take two or three Keep the plants in the greenhouse until the
months to flower, and those planted out at weather is good, shading them from strong
the beginning of summer will be ready for sunlight to prevent overheating. Harden
harvesting at the end of it. Borage and them off by standing them outside during
summer savory are two of the herbs that the day and bringing them in at night.
ripen particularly quickly, and borage will Alternatively, they can be placed in a cold
self-seed freely. frame or under a cloche, and, once all danger
Seeds germinate faster in a greenhouse of frost has passed, they can then be planted
where they can be sown in trays in early out at the recommended planting distances.
spring. Some seeds need a period of cold
before they will germinate - angelica, juniper HYGIENE
(Juniperus communis), sweet violet, sweet Keep everything clean to avoid the risk of
cicely, woodruff, for example - while others disease. Always use clean containers, clean
need a higher temperature. If you sow too compost and clean seed trays. Use fresh,
early, you will have to provide heat while the clean water from the tap and remember to
seedlings develop, and there will also be a wash out your watering can regularly.
problem with light levels - seedlings need the Discarded compost will encourage insect
correct amount of light to sustain healthy pests and the fungi that cause damping-off
growth. Many herb seeds will germinate disease (see page 57), so keep bags of
within days at a constant temperature of compost closed and clear up any spills.
20-21 °C (68-70°F). Turn the seed trays Before starting off your seeds, clean out the
regularly to stop the seedlings being drawn greenhouse and use a pesticide smoke
towards the light. canister in it.
HARVESTING YOUR OWN SEED

It’s a good idea to allow some of your herbs Herb seed suitable for
to set seed rather than dead heading all of collection
them. The seed heads can then be collected Angelica (Angelica archangelica)
and the seeds removed and sown to raise new This seed only remains viable for about
plants for your herb garden. Collect the seed three months, so it's a good idea to plant
heads - some of them in autumn, some of it soon after harvesting
them earlier, depending on the herb — in a Borage (Borago officinalis)
paper bag, label them, and then store them Caraway (Carum cam)
in a cool, dry, dark place ready for sowing the Coriander [Coriandrum sativum)
following spring. Alternatively, collect the Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum)
seed heads as soon as they are ripe, remove Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis)
the seeds and store them in labelled Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata)
envelopes for ease of planting later.
Bear in mind, though, that most cultivars
do not ‘come true’ (that is, they are not plants. Very few variegated cultivars come
exactly the same as the parent plant) from true, and certain herbs may cross-pollinate
collected seed: poppies, pot marigolds and and their seedlings differ from the parent
foxgloves, for example. Usually, they produce plant: various kinds of thyme (thymus)
just a percentage of plants that resemble the marjoram (origanum) and mint (mentha) are
parent, and this percentage decreases each examples. Dill and fennel will also cross-
year with each subsequent generation of pollinate if grown near each other.
Caraway seed heads ready for harvesting. Do not allow the seed heads to become over-ripe
GROWING FROM CUTTINGS

Cuttings are the usual form of propagation Some herbs to grow from cuttings
for perennial herbs such as cotton lavender, Curry plant [Helichrysum italicum syn.
rosemary and lavender. They are taken from H. angustifolium)
healthy, established plants during the growing Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis]
season (not when they are dormant), and Lavender (lavandula)
there are three main types of stem cuttings: Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla)
softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood. Heel and Marjorams (origanum)
root cuttings can also be taken. Myrtle (Myrtus communis]
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis]
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS Rue [Ruta graveolens]
Softwood cuttings are best taken in late Sages (salvia)
spring or early summer. They are taken from Scented-leaf geraniums (pelargonium)
new shoots that have not yet hardened and Tarragon (Artemisia dracuncuius]
from herbs that root quickly, as softwood Thymes (thymus)
cuttings do not survive for long without roots. Winter savory (Satureja montana]
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium]
Taking softwood cuttings
You will need:

Sharp knife
Polythene bags
Bowl of water
Hormone rooting compound
Dibber
Plant pots
Mixture of sharp sand, and peat or
loam-based compost
STAGE 1: Select strong, non-flowering shoots

with plenty of leaves and cut off 5-10cm
(2-4in) of the shoot tip. Cut cleanly through
the stem with a sharp knife just below a leaf
node. Trim off the heel if it is ragged. Angle
the cut to give a larger surface for root
growth. Take several cuttings this way.
STAGE 2: Put the cuttings into a polythene Stage 3: When ready, take out the cuttings
bag and place in the shade until ready for use and, with a knife, cut the leaves from the
to prevent them from wilting. lower third so that the stems do not tear.
Choosing a suitable shoot of rosemary Inserting cuttings around the edge of a pot
STAGE 4: Dip the cuttings in water, and then STAGE 7: Label, date and cover with a
in a hormone rooting compound to one- polythene bag.

third of their depth.
STAGE 8: Place in a cool spot for 24 hours to
Stage 5: Using a dibber, plant the cuttings allow any cuttings that may have drooped to
around the edge of a flower pot filled with a recover. Then introduce to heat.
mixture of sharp sand and compost.
STAGE 9: Transplant when there is a good
Stage 6: Firm them in gently, keeping the show of roots into their permanent growing
compost as loose as possible. positions.
Semi-ripe cuttings Hardwood cuttings

Semi-ripe cuttings are taken from sideshoots Taking hardwood cuttings is a more unusual
of the current season’s growth in mid- to late way of propagating herbs, but again, shrubby
summer when the shoots have started to types of herbs such as myrtle, bay and
harden at the base where they join the parent rosemary are ideal subjects. Hardwood
plant. Select sturdy, non-flowering shoots cuttings are taken in mid- to late autumn.
about 5-1 Ocm (2-4in) long. Strip the lower
leaves away from the cuttings, leaving a short STAGE 1: Select well-ripened shoots of the
length of clear stem. Dip the cuttings in current season’s growth, 22.5—38cm (9— 15in)
water and then in a hormone rooting long, depending upon the species.
powder. Semi-ripe cuttings taken from hardy
herbs will root outside in summer. Make a
slit in the soil with a trowel and insert the
cuttings into it, making sure that they are not
touching. Firm them in, water and label.
Make sure that they are watered regularly.
Alternatively, semi-ripe cuttings will do
well in a cold frame, out of the direct sun.
This method of propagation is suitable for
shrubby herbs such as bay and lavender.
Heel cuttings STAGE 2: Cut off any soft top growth and
Heel cuttings, which are vigorous sideshoots make a straight cut across the stem, just
of the current season’s growth, are taken from below a leaf node.
semi-ripe stems. Tear them away from the
main stem with a small heel of older wood
attached. Plant as for softwood cuttings. The
compost should be kept moist, but there is
no need to supply the humid conditions
required by softwood cuttings.
STAGE 3: Make a second cut 15cm (6in)

above the first and above a node. Cut it at an
angle. This will tell you which is the top and
which is the bottom of the cutting.
Stage 4: Moisten the base of the cutting and

Tear sideshoots away from the main stem dip it into a hormone rooting powder.
Root cuttings
Herbs such as bergamot, comfrey and
horseradish can be increased from thick
pieces of root 5-7.5cm (2—3in) long. Cut the
root and insert the pieces vertically in potting
compost. Cover with a shallow layer of sand.
Mint, which has running roots, can be
lifted in autumn and a few of its roots
removed, cut into pieces and placed
STAGE 5: Insert the cuttings to half their horizontally in a compost-filled tray. Cover
length into a slit trench in open ground. them with a thin layer of compost and place
in a cold frame where they will soon start to
produce shoots.
Thick root cuttings are used to propagate herbs

such as bergamot, comfrey and horseradish
STAGE 6: Firm the cuttings in with your heel.

Water in well, and label. The cuttings will
gradually develop roots over winter. They can
then be transplanted to their permanent
locations.
Insert thick root cuttings vertically in a tray of

potting compost
Alternatively, in areas where winters are

severe, plant them in a box of moist sand and
store in a cool place. Mint can be increased from thin root cuttings
LAYERING
If cuttings are difficult to root, try layering,
which can be done throughout the growing
season, and is the easiest way of increasing
numbers of both woody and soft-stemmed
perennial herbs. STAGE 2: Dip the cut in some hormone
Many herbs, that grow near to the ground rooting powder.
- thyme, for example - propagate by natural
layering when a stem lying along the ground STAGE 3: Make a shallow drill where the stem
sends out roots into the surrounding soil will touch the soil. Dig in some compost and
where it touches. Layering encourages new some fine grit.
sections of a plant to root while they are still
attached to the parent plant.
Lemon balm, hyssop, marjoram, mints,
horehound, curry plant, rosemary, sages,
cotton lavender, violets and pinks are all
suitable plants for the technique of layering.
You will usually get larger plants from
layering than you would from cuttings.
STAGE 4: Bury the nicked stem in the

prepared drill and, using a split wooden
clothes peg or wire clip, pin the stem securely
in position. Water in well to encourage root
growth and do not allow to dry out.
STAGE 1: Choose a low, level stem from an

existing herb plant. Bend it down and make
a slanting cut with a sharp knife in the
under-side of the stem, about 20cm (8in)
away from the main stem. Do not cut all the After four to six weeks, roots will have formed
way through the stem. The purpose of the and you will have a whole new plant that can be
cut is to encourage new roots to form. severed from the parent plant.
Mound layering
This method is similar to layering. In spring, Plants suitable for
mound 7.5—12.5cm (3—5in) of a mixture of mound layering
sand and peat over the crown of the plant so Cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus)
that only the young shoots at the top of the Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)
plant are exposed. This will encourage new Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus')
shoots to develop roots. Replenish the Sages (salvia)
sand/peat mixture if it is eroded by heavy Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum)
rain, to keep the crown of the plant covered. Thymes (thymus)
By late summer/autumn, roots will have Winter savory (Satureja montana)
formed and the shoots can be severed from Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium)
the parent plant, dug up and replanted.
The leggy stems of sage, ready to layer The finished mound layering around the sage
Thyme, ready for mound layering Mound-layered thyme

ROOT DIVISION
Root division is probably the easiest way of STAGE 3: After separating, make sure that the
increasing your herbs. It is a simple process new, individual plants have strong growth
which enables you to produce plants identical buds and healthy roots.
to the parent. Large clumps of herbaceous
perennials can be pulled apart and small
pieces replanted. Division is best done when
the plants are dormant.
STAGE 4: Plant as soon as possible, cutting

back the top growth by one-half before
planting.
STAGE 1: Lift the whole clump with a fork

and ease the soil from the roots, being careful
not to damage them.
Tough plants may be hard to pull apart. If so, use

two forks to prise them apart. Place the forks in
the centre of the plant, close together and placed
STAGE 2: Split the plant into sections by back to back. Force the forks apart at the top,
pulling it apart with your hands. Never use a separating the plant at the bottom into at least
spade as this is likely to damage the roots. two portions
GROWING HERBS BOUGHT

IN POTS
The quickest and easiest, although more
expensive, way to establish your herb garden
is to buy some of your plants from a garden
centre or nursery. Always buy good quality
plants, and try to select strong, healthy ones.
If a plant looks straggly and wilting with
yellowing leaves, leave it where it is. If, on
the other hand, it has plenty of bushy,
strong-looking growth with no discoloration,
it is probably healthy.
Check stems, leaves and roots. Have a
good look at the bottom of the pot. If the
roots are pushing through the drainage holes,
Splitting a mint plant into sections by pulling it it has obviously outgrown its pot size,
apart with the hands although there should be some root showing,
as this is a sign of a well-developed, healthy
root system. If you tap the side of the pot
Plants suitable for root division and the compost is loose, this is indicative of
Bergamot [Monarda didyma) a specimen that hasn’t had time to establish a
Catmint (Nepeta cataria) strong root system. In either of these

Comfrey [Symphytum officinale) instances, it is inadvisable to buy.
Lady's mantle [Alchemilla mollis) Try to avoid buying herbs that are in
Lemon balm [Melissa officinalis) flower; herbs transplant more easily before
Lovage [Levisticum officinale) they bloom. Sometimes, growers over-force
Marjorams (origanum) plants in greenhouses with the result that
Sweet cicely [Myrrhis odorata) they are floppy and leggy. Occasionally, a
Violets [Viola odorata) grower will plant several small herbs in a pot
to look like one bushy plant. These should be
Plants with creeping roots avoided. Try to resist the temptation of
Mints (mentha) buying tender or half-hardy herbs before all
Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare) risk of frost has passed, unless you have some
means of protecting them.
Herbs that grow from bulbs Having selected your herbs and taken
Chives [Allium schoenoprasum) them home, place them in a warm, sheltered
Welsh onion [Allium fistulosum) spot until you are ready to plant. Water them
well if the compost is dry and plant them as
Herbs that will not grow from seed soon as possible, either in early morning or
Aloe [Aloe vera) in the evening. When planting, try not to
Tarragon [Artemisia dracunculus) disturb the rootball, and always dig a hole
that is a little bigger than the pot itself.
Planting herbs grown in pots PLANTING INVASIVE HERBS

Invasive herbs such as the mints, tansy and
STAGE 1: Make a planting hole. woodruff need to have their spread restricted
by planting them in sunken pots or buckets
with their bottom removed. Heavy duty
plastic bags can also be used, but be sure to
make drainage holes.
STAGE 2: Hold the container in one hand

and place your other hand over the top of the
pot, with your fingers either side of the plant.
STAGE 1: Dig a hole the same size and depth
STAGE 3: Turn the container upside down, as your pot or bucket.
tapping the pot sharply on the sides. The plant
will come away leaving the rootball intact.
STAGE 2: Make sure that the pot’s bottom has

been removed and then place it, empty, in
the hole, with its top level with the ground.
STAGE 3: Partially fill the container with

compost. Plant the herb, adding more
compost and firming in well. Continue to
STAGE 4: Using both hands, place the herb in add compost until the rim of the container is
the hole, making sure that the top of the covered. Water thoroughly.
compost around the plant is the same as the
level of soil into which you are planting. If it STAGE 4: Each year, during spring, replant
is above this level, the plant will dry out. the herb and replace the compost in the
container. The plant can be divided at this
STAGE 5: Fill in around with loose soil, press time, if necessary, and the young, vigorous
in gently and water well. pieces replanted in the same way.
PRUNING Topiary
Once herbs are established, the size and Many evergreen herbs - box, bay and myrtle,
vigour of most of them can be controlled to for example — can be trained into shaped
some degree by harvesting and cutting back. forms and clipped according to design. The
While dormant plants may be tidied up best way to do this is to plant cuttings with
during winter, the main time for pruning upright stems and then train the one stem to
herbs is during spring and autumn. spiral up a central stake, which can later be
Pruning produces vigorous new shoots removed. Box is a good subject for a spiral
from just below the pruning point, and it shape. Remember, though, that the plants
also allows light and air to reach all parts of will take time to achieve the desired height
the plant. Regular pruning needs to be and shape. A topiary feature or geometric
carried out annually, and woody herbs, hedge needs two clippings each year, one in
climbers and perennials all need some sort of late spring and one in late summer.
trimming and pruning. Lightly trim herbs Herbs suitable for potted topiary include
such as thyme directly after flowering so that cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus),
the plant has time to make fresh growth myrtle (Myrtus communis) and rosemary
before winter. At the end of the growing (Rosmarinus officinalis).
season, shrubby perennial herbs should be
cut back to half the year’s growth.
Woody trees and shrubs such as the An example of a clipped box bush
evergreens box, bay

and myrtle should be
pruned in spring and
again in autumn, if
necessary, to maintain
a sturdy, bushy shape.
Deciduous herbs such
as lemon verbena
should be pruned in
late winter or early
spring when branches
which have become
too high or spreading
need to be cut out, so
that a compact, open
shape is retained.
Perennial herbs, such
as fennel, mint, lady’s
mantle and tarragon,
need to have all dead
growth removed in
winter.
PESTS AND DISEASES set light to it. This will kill the spores in the
Generally speaking, well-grown, healthy soil, but will not harm the underground
herbs are relatively pest- and disease-free. runners of the plant. Mint rust is easily
They are also less vulnerable to attack recognizable by the orange-coloured spore
because many of them contain aromatic oils pustules that appear on the leaves and stems
which have insect repellent and anti-bacterial which then become twisted and distorted.
properties: for example, lavender, rosemary You can pick off and burn all the infected
and thyme. Strong-smelling herbs, such as shoots to prevent the spores from being
pennyroyal, tansy, cotton lavender, rue and scattered, but the disease may eventually kill
curry plant, are also unlikely to fall victim, the plant. Alternatively, you can dig up and
while chives and garlic too are remarkably burn all the infected mint and replant new
resistant to infection. specimens in a different spot.
Plants are much more susceptible to Chives can also be affected by a different
disease and pest infestation if they are weak type of rust, particularly in mild areas. Again,
and straggly and under stress, so the best there is no cure, and if the plants are badly
defence against such attack is to grow them infected, they should be lifted and destroyed.
in a well-prepared soil with added compost Comfrey too is subject to rust attacks. Cut
and organic mulches and with the correct off the infected leaves and burn them.
amount of nutrients and water. They also
need spacious conditions where air and light
can circulate - air circulation can be
improved by planting at greater distances and
pruning where appropriate. Always sow or
plant your herbs at the best time of year so
that they are well-established before there is
any danger of pest infestation or disease.
Rubbish heaps, decaying crops and weeds
can serve as hosts, as can dirty pots and seed
trays, and soil brought into the greenhouse.
Remove rotting leaves and debris and stick to
a rigid hygiene regime.
Diseases
Most garden diseases are caused by fungi
which are invisible to the naked eye and only
recognized by the symptoms they cause.
Rusts
The fungi causing mint rust, for example, lie
on the surface of the soil during winter.
Probably the most effective treatment is to
scatter dry straw over the mint in winter and Chive leaves, badly infected with rust
conditions. Once the disease is established, it

cannot be controlled. Use a sterilized potting
mixture, and water with a fungicidal solution
when sowing and pricking out.
Pests
Prevention is better than cure. Inspect your
herbs carefully, particularly during spring,
when new growth is appearing, and in late
summer when many insects lay eggs, and try to
solve the problem before any damage occurs.
Aphids
Any plant that makes soft growth can be
plagued by aphids which suck the sap from
Downy mildew on borage the leaves and shoots causing leaf curling and
distortion, stunted growth and a sooty mould.
Rots and mildews These insects spread virus diseases from one
Garlic can be attacked by onion white rot, a plant to another, causing a considerable
fungal disease that rots the bulbs. The base of amount of damage. Aphids can be found on
the bulb and the roots are smothered in a herbs such as poppies, anise, borage, angelica
white, fluffy, fungal growth. All infected and the seed heads of fennel and dill.
plants should be lifted and burned. Spray the affected plants with soapy water,
Powdery mildew is a common disease in or pinch out the affected tops. Lacewing
sage, the mints and sometimes tarragon. larvae eat aphids, hoverflies and their larvae
Bergamot and sweet cicely can also suffer feed on them, as do ladybirds and their
from powdery mildew, which thrives in dry, larvae. Ladybirds will also lay their eggs close
hot summers. It is recognizable by the greyish to aphid colonies. Try to encourage insects
mould that appears on the leaves. A dusting such as these into your garden - grow
of sulphur can act as a control measure when nasturtiums, for example, which attract
applied to the leaves. Tap watering may help. hoverflies - and if you must use an insecticide,
Downy mildew, encouraged by cool, wet use a selective, systemic insecticide, or an
springs and autumns, can affect borage and insecticidal soap, that leaves most beneficial
evening primrose. The upper surface of the garden insects unharmed.
leaves becomes brown and blotched, while

the underside has whitish patches. Suckers
Bay can suffer from scale: look for small, Bay and box can be attacked by suckers
waxy scabs on the underside of the leaves and (psyllids); bay in the spring, box throughout
on the stems and rub them off with your hands. the summer. Box leaves become stunted and
Damping-off disease can affect seedlings the leaf margins of bay are thickened, curled
and is caused by fungi that rot their base and and yellowed. The affected shoots should be
stem. The fungi flourish in unhygienic, moist cut out and burned.
Red spider mite

A very persistent pest which flourishes in
hot, dry conditions, such as those in a
greenhouse. Eggs overwinter in cracks in the
greenhouse and hatch in spring. Red spider
mites feed on the plant’s sap and attacks are
evident by a fine webbing around the plant
and a pale stippling of its leaves. Succulent¬
leaved herbs that are grown under glass are
particularly vulnerable. Control the pests by
Black aphids and a sooty mould on chamomile keeping up humidity and by introducing the
predatory mite Phytoseiulus perimilis to feed
Carrot fly on them as temperatures increase. Re¬
The larvae of the carrot fly (.Psila rosae) affect introduce the predators as necessary.
parsley, causing it to develop discoloured
foliage and even to eventually die. The fly Caterpillars
lays eggs in the soil near the plant and the Caterpillars can be a nuisance from summer
larvae hatch out and feed in the tissues of the to early spring. These pests enjoy the young
larger roots, eating tunnels out of them. The leaves of basil, sweet marjoram and summer
older leaves then begin to yellow and droop, savory. Pick them off by hand, or apply derris
becoming tinged with red. A soil insecticide dust (see ‘Using chemicals’, page 59).
can be used or, alternatively, two batches of
parsley can be raised each year, so that you Slugs and snails
have a replacement supply to plant on a Slugs and snails can also cause havoc in the
different site. herb garden, although their damage can be
limited by controlling their numbers. Slugs
Celery leaf miner tend to attack the same herbs as caterpillars.
These larvae can disfigure the leaves of lovage, Young bergamot shoots and parsley are also
leaving a thin ribbon of dead tissue. The grub attractive to them. Slugs hide during the day
tunnels within the leaves, which should and feed at night. Snails also hide during the
immediately be picked off and crushed. day, usually in cool, moist, dark places.
A nocturnal hunt armed with a torch and
Cuckoo spit a bucket of soapy water is one way of dealing
Cuckoo spit is caused by the larvae of the with them. The skin of half a grapefruit or
sap-sucker froghopper insect, and a large melon left on the ground also works: slugs
variety of plants are attacked in late spring by and snails hide under it and can be removed
this insect, which sucks the sap and causes the following morning. You could try sinking
tender shoots to wilt and twist. Lavender a small dish half-filled with milk or beer into
shoots can become infested with frothy the ground. Slugs love these and will fall in
masses of cuckoo spit, as can southernwood and drown. Keep the container about 2.5cm
and roses. The best way to deal with it is to (lin) above ground level or beneficial ground
pick it off by hand. beetles may also be drowned.
COMPANION PLANTING
Companion planting works due to the scents
of certain plants acting as deterrents to insect
and other garden pests, and many herbs
make excellent companion plants to other
plants in your garden.
Grow basil near tomatoes to deter whitefly,
and feverfew with carrots to help keep carrot
fly away. Plant garlic around the base of
peach trees to help control the spread of
peach leaf curl and with roses to produce a
stronger perfume. Marigolds can help keep
tomatoes pest-free, and a row of summer
Snails are very fond of chamomile 'Treneague' savory surrounding the broad bean patch will
deter blackfly. Chamomile, known as the
Particularly vulnerable plants can be plants’ physician’, can aid any sickly plant.
surrounded by grit or crushed egg shells, and Fragrant herbs are generally useful in
very small plants protected by covering them maintaining a healthy vegetable patch. Try
with a large plastic bottle with the bottom growing hyssop near cabbages to deter
part cut off. Creating a shady canopy of cabbage white butterflies, spearmint near
herbs will prove advantageous for foraging roses to repel aphids, and tansy near fruit
ground beetles who have an enormous trees to repel insects. Rosemary planted in
appetite for slugs. the rose garden is reputed to keep the roses
healthy. A clump of Solomon’s seal planted
Using chemicals with lily of the valley is said to increase the size
If you decide to use chemicals to rid yourself of the flowers and to keep the bed healthy.
of pests and diseases, certain precautions
must be taken. Many herbs are edible, so it is
vital to make sure that the product you have
chosen is suitable. Always read the
instructions on the packet and try to keep
the use of chemicals to a minimum.
In small gardens, pests can often be
washed away with a hose pipe.
Derris dust, an organic product, will
destroy aphids and caterpillars, for example,
although, on the minus side, it will also
destroy beneficial insects, such as ladybirds
and butterflies, and is somewhat toxic as well.
If you do use it, be sure not to pick your
herbs for at least two weeks after applying, Plant feverfew with carrots to help keep carrot fly
and to wash them well before using. away from the vegetables
GROWING HERBS IN
CONTAINERS AND RAISED BEDS
CHOOSING CONTAINERS shapes and designs must be carefully

Nowadays it is possible to buy containers of considered when you are planning your
all shapes and sizes and in a variety of garden, and chosen with an eye to suiting
materials ranging from terracotta to plastic. both the style of your house and your garden.
And, choosing which ones to buy is, without Ideally, they should be an integral part of the
doubt, one of the most exciting aspects of garden, having a definite purpose and a
container gardening. specific role to play, whether as a focal point,
Go to any garden centre or nursery and or to create interest, texture and colour.
you will discover a bewildering range of Well-thought-out and well-planted
troughs, tubs and pots. Container sizes, containers give immediate impact. They can
A selection of basils, planted together, using a large plastic pot and various smaller ones
GROWING HERBS IN CONTAINERS AND RAISED BEDS 61
be used to fill gaps in borders, to stand on

each side of a doorway, or as focal points to
draw the eye to various parts of the garden,
their simple lines providing structure and
form. They also create an instant garden and
a dramatic display that is both flexible and
movable. Big, bold, classic containers can be
used to create mood and atmosphere, and to
give a range of stunning effects. Large
terracotta pots make a statement all of their
own, while plain, clay pots are a very good
choice for architectural plants.
Plastic pots
Your choice of pots will depend largely on
your budget. Plastic pots are reasonably
cheap to buy. They are lightweight, easy to
store and clean, and they will not crack once
the nights become frosty. It is also possible to
judge their water content merely by lifting
them. Cheap polythene pots are ideal for
annual herb displays, as most of the pot will
be hidden from view. Remember, though, to
gouge out drainage holes before planting.
Another choice might be mock terracotta
pots moulded from polypropylene, which
give the appearance of terracotta and provide
insulation for the compost.
Clay and terracotta pots

Clay and terracotta pots are more expensive,
with the plain, machine-made ones being the
cheapest. Again, the cheaper ones are ideal wrap around them. Remember to soak new
when the main focus of attention is upon the pots in water for 24 hours before using.
display of herbs. Clay pots dry out more

quickly than plastic ones, so they will need to Glazed earthenware pots
be watered more frequently, or lined with Glazed earthenware pots give you a great
polythene — or you could use a soil-based choice of colour and design, and the glazing
compost. Clay and terracotta pots are heavy prevents water loss. Not all glazed pots have
to move around, however, and if the compost drainage holes, however, so check this before
inside freezes during winter, they may crack. buying. Again, these pots may crack if the
You can insulate the outside by tying bubble compost freezes.

Fibreglass containers
These are expensive, but modern and stylish.
They have a high gloss finish, and come in a
variety of colours, but can crack or shatter if
knocked. They are more stable than plastic
pots, frost-resistant, and relatively easy to
move around.
SUITABLE CONTAINER HERBS

There are a variety of herbs that grow well in
containers, but always bear in mind that the
herbs you choose will have to live and grow
in pots, which means regular watering,
although big containers and containers
Pot marigold will add vibrant colour to any pot grouped together need less watering. If you
group your pots, for the best appearance do
so in odd rather than even numbers and in
Concrete pots small groups, and don’t mix those made from
Concrete pots can be bought in a variety of different materials.
designs and mouldings. They are extremely
stable and frost-resistant, but are heavy to
move around. They can take a long time to
become ‘weathered’, making them rather
bleak in appearance. Use them for housing
permanent hardy herbs.
Reconstituted stone pots

These are manufactured from stone which is
ground up and then moulded into shape.
They take a while to ‘weather’ and are heavy
to move around, but they are both frost-
resistant and stable.
Wooden half barrels

Wooden half barrels make stunning
containers for herb displays, and they are
stable and frost-resistant. Some half barrels,
however, are replicas, and may have plywood
bases and inferior metal bands, making their
lifespan a short one. They may also fall apart
if allowed to dry out, and you will probably Nasturtiums with their cheerful colour and holy
need to drill drainage holes before planting. basil will grow happily together in a pot
Herbs to try in containers or pots

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) loves the sun so can be potted and grown in full sunshine
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) can be grown in a container and kept small by pinching out its
growing points
Golden marjoram (Origanum vulgare1Aureum') should be planted in a 20-30cm (8-12in) pot
Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) thrives in a pot
Myrtle (Myrtus communis) should be planted in a 20-30cm (8-l2in) pot
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus 'Alaska') is a neat and bushy plant very suitable for container growing
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis) add vibrant colour
Rock hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis subsp. aristatus) is aromatic, neat and compact
Sages (salvia), with their various leaf colourings, are also a good basis for any collection of
containers
Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor) can be grown in a pot, as can
Scented-leaf geraniums (pelargonium)
Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana)
Thymes (thymus) are small and drought resistant. Try growing them individually in pots or in
combinations with other herbs.
Invasive herbs invade neighbouring plants Suitable for tubs

and are best grown in a pot Bay (Laurus nobilis)
Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummuiaria 'Aurea') English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
grows well in a container, tending to hang Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
down the sides

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) Herbs for small troughs
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) Basil (Ocimum basilicum 'Mini Purpurascens Wellsweep')
Mints (mentha) Lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus)
Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) Parsley [Petroselinum crispum)
Creeping Jenny will hang vertically down the sides Red basil adds a splash of colour to any type of
when planted in a container container planting

GROUPING HERBS
Having decided what to plant, try to co¬
ordinate herbs of a similar colour to your
initial choice, so that the same colour scheme
predominates. Don’t be deterred if you think
a combination won’t work. Experiment,
remembering to avoid combining opposing
extremes: for instance, don’t plant sun-loving
herbs with those that prefer damp, shady
conditions. And, if a selection of herbs is
planted together, make sure that they all
grow at roughly the same rate.
Planting distances will be shown on seed
packets or on plant labels if the herbs are
bought from a garden centre or nursery, but
it is not necessary to adhere to these when
planting up pots. You can use relatively small Hyssop, rue and sage, planted together
plants and move them out when they get too
big, as you would with any potted plants.
You can then fill the spaces that are left with If you want to create a calm, relaxed effect,
smaller specimens of the same herb. go for large dramatic containers and plant
herbs with strong structural foliage for real
impact. One large container can look
stunning if positioned correctly.
Alternatively, herbs can be planted in
separate, smaller pots which can then be
built up in attractive groups of different
colour schemes. Isolated colour ranges draw
the eye and attract attention. Containers
spilling over with a single herb variety can
give maximum impact.
A planting of marjoram, sage, mint, thyme, parsley

and chives in a half barrel
Box, violets, thyme, heartsease and nasturtiums

Feverfew, sweet basil and golden marjoram Golden oregano and chamomile
Herb combinations
• Thymus vulgaris 'Silver Posie'with chives and • Mix bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare
purple-leaved sage. 'Purpureum'), wild celery (Apium graveolens),
• A combination of golden marjoram, dill, variegated lemon balm (Melissa officinalis
tansy, feverfew and marigold. 'Aurea'), thyme 'Silver Posie', double
• Cotton lavender, clary sage, borage, blue chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile 'Flore
rue and pinks combine well. Pleno7), heartsease, camphor thyme (Thymus
• Mix sage, chives, marjoram and thyme mastichina) and curry plant.
(sage and thyme are evergreens, the others • Try a low terracotta bowl containing small,
are perennials). Add a few annual herbs clipped box and low thymes.
such as basil. • Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote', pineapple
• Rosemary, winter savory, sage, thyme and sage (Salvia elegans 'Scarlet Pineapple') and
marjoram can either be grown in one scented-leaf geranium.
large pot or in separate pots. • Thyme 'Silver Posie', chives and purple¬
• Plant chervil, coriander and parsley and leaved sage (Salvia officinalis 'Purpurascens').
place in a bright position out of the sun. • Golden marjoram (Origanum vulgare
• Chives, variegated mint, purple-leaved sage, 'Aureum'), golden thyme (Thymus
marjoram, thyme and parsley make a cimodorus Aureus'), golden sage (Salvia
lovely combination (see page 64, lower left). officinalis var. Icterina) and tricolour sage
• Try mixing bay, oregano, golden curled (Salvia officinalis var. tricolor) in 20-30cm
marjoram, bush or Greek basil (Ocimum (8-12in) pots.
basilicum var. minimum') and golden thyme. • Hyssop, rue and sage all go well together,
• Decorative plants such as rue, rosemary, but need pruning to keep top growth
lemon balm and marigold look well under control (see page 64, top).
grouped together. • Chamomile, scented-leaf geranium, golden
• Parsley, chives, basil, thyme (Thymus vulgaris marjoram, oregano, sage, parsley and thyme.
'Silver Queen"), golden marjoram (curled) • Clipped bay, sage, thyme, chives and mint
(Origanum vulgare Aureum Crispum'). make an attractive group.
PLANTING POTS,TUBS AND

TROUGHS
Always set tubs or troughs in their final
positions before filling and planting. When
planting tubs and troughs, use a loam-based
compost - it provides body and the
anchorage that herbs need - with one-third
as much of grit mixed into it.
Planting a variety of herbs in a large pot
almost up to its rim, so that the rootball has

a thorough soaking.
Before planting the herbs, place them, still
in their pots, in the tub or trough and move
them around until you get a balanced effect.
An informal planting is better than a
regimented look. Walk around the container
and view it from all angles. Place tall plants
at the back or sides and shorter or trailing
ones at the front, or sometimes at the sides if
Materials for planting a large herb pot the planting calls for it. If the container is to
be viewed from all sides, arrange the herbs so
that the tallest ones are in the centre and
Make sure that the drainage is good by grade them down towards the sides. Plant so
placing a deep layer of hardcore - it also adds that the tub looks reasonably full, but allow
weight and stability - at the bottom. Place room for the plants to spread during
large pieces over the drainage holes and then summer. Summer containers can be planted
a layer of smaller pieces on top to a depth of as early as late spring if they can be kept
at least 2.5cm (lin). Add some peat or frost-free.
pulverized bark on top of the hardcore to After planting, cover the surface of the
prevent the compost from washing away. compost with a topping of small pebbles to
You can line the containers with plastic act as a mulch - to prevent water from
sheeting to help conserve water, or sink an evaporating too quickly - and to give the
upturned, bottomless, plastic bottle into the container a neat finish. Give it a good
compost to allow water to penetrate the roots watering - this will help settle the compost -
of the plants. Place a layer of compost over using a fine rose, watering the foliage as well
the peat or bark.
to remove any soil particles. Water when the
An hour or so before planting, stand each container is in shade as the rays of the sun on
herb in its container in a bucket of water, the wet leaves could damage them.
PLANTING WINDOW BOXES marjoram, the thymes, winter savory, salad

Window boxes are available in various burnet, scented-leaf geraniums, pineapple
materials, including terracotta, plastic and mint and parsley are the most suitable.
wood. Always check that the fixing used on
your window box is strong and secure enough STAGE 1: Place a layer of crocks over the
to take its weight when full. Check also that drainage holes in the base of the window box.
you are legally entitled to have a window box.
If you prefer to make your own window STAGE 2: Mix loam-based compost and a
box, choose treated hardwood, such as elm, little sharp sand together and fill the box to
beech or oak. The finished box should have within 2.5cm (1 in) of the top.
drainage holes, be treated with preservative
and lined with polythene sheeting. Use a STAGE 3: Dig planting holes in the mixture
loam-based compost and add water-retaining to the depth of each herb in its pot. Loosen
polymer granules. These absorb large the rootballs by gently tapping the sides of
amounts of moisture which is then released the pot on a hard surface, and place the herbs
over a long period of time. Alternatively, in the planting holes.
herbs can be potted up individually, so that
any that fail can be replaced easily. The STAGE 4: Move the compost around the
smaller perennial herbs, such as chives, plants and firm in. Water well.
A decorative window box filled with a combination of herbs

PLANTING HANGING BASKETS a variety of materials, from the traditional

Hanging baskets are the perfect way to add sphagnum moss to preformed wood fibre
height to any planting scheme and, whilst they liners. Wool ‘moss’ liner is an ideal substitute
are possibly the smallest garden feature, they for natural moss and is suitable for any
are the ones that provide immediate impact. shaped basket, as well as having excellent
First, you need to consider the type and water-retaining properties.
size of basket you prefer: plastic coated wire,
those made of plastic, or even clay pots held
in rope nets. A popular choice is the round-
bottomed, wire basket that can be lined with
STAGE 1: Line your basket with moss or a

bought liner.
STAGE 2: Place a disc of polythene in the

bottom of the basket to help retain moisture.
Add a little multi-purpose compost and mix
in some water-retaining granules. If your
basket insists on moving, stand it in a bucket
A herb hanging basket, two months after planting or large pot.
STAGE 3: Plant the outside of the basket first,

working from the bottom up.
STAGE 4: Gently open up any slits in the Materials for planting a hanging basket: select
outside of the lining, or make your own those that will complement the rest of the garden
planting holes, and insert one plant into each

slit/hole from the inside, if possible, trying
not to damage the rootball.
STAGE 5: Fill with compost as you go along,

Firming it around each plant.
Stage 6: Build up in layers, finally planting

the top of the basket.
STAGE 7: Water the basket well and stand it

in a frost-free place to settle. Follow up with Take care to water the finished basket evenly.
a daily watering. Supplementary feeding will be needed in six weeks

MAKING A SINK GARDEN peat substitute, cement, grit or sand and

Raised sink gardens make an attractive, water) make excellent substitutes. They also
miniature herb garden for both the patio and have several advantages: the plug hole ensures
the terrace. Restricted to plants with similar adequate drainage, exactly the right mixture
requirements and placed in an open, sunny of soil can be used, and the plants themselves
situation, they can be an eye-catching feature. can receive greater individual attention which
Nowadays, however, old stone sinks are both will help them to thrive.
expensive and difficult to find, but glazed
sinks, when coated in hypertufa (a mixture of A hypertufa-covered sink planted with herbs
COVERING A GLAZED SINK
You will need:

Tile cutter
Adhesive, eg Unibond
Paintbrush
Old bucket
Trowel
1-2 parts peat substitute, sieved
1 part cement
2 parts fine grit or coarse sand
Heavy-duty gloves Stage 1: Make sure the sink is clean, dry and
free from grease.
STAGE 2: Score the surfaces to be coated with Stage 3: When the bonding agent becomes
a tile cutter, to give a rough surface for the tacky, apply the hypertufa mix. The covering
hypertufa to adhere to. should be about 1.5—2cm (V2—%in) thick.
si*
Stage 3: Mix together the peat substitute, STAGE 6: Before the mixture sets, roughen
cement and fine grit or coarse sand and add the surface with a stiff brush so that it
sufficient water to form a thick paste. resembles the texture of stone.
STAGE 4: Using a paintbrush, cover the surfaces STAGE 7: It will take about a week for the
with adhesive. Paint both the outside and 10cm hypertufa to dry, after which time the surface
(4in) of the inside, to reach below the final should be scrubbed with a brush and then
compost level, so the hypertufa adheres well. washed down well.

Siting a sink garden

The sink should be raised off the ground,
about 45cm (18in) - or 75cm (30in) for
wheelchair users — on supports of brick
columns at each corner. This will improve
the drainage, provide a good setting for the
sink, and will also give a better view of the
herbs. Any supports should be stable enough
to bear the weight of the sink when filled, so
that there is no danger of it tipping, and they
should always be placed on a level area rather
than a sloping one. Make sure that the Planting the first herb in the sink garden
drainage hole isn’t blocked by the supports
and that the sink is placed in an open
position that will provide both an adequate Choose your herbs carefully. Compact species
amount of sun and shelter from the wind. are ideal as the more vigorous kinds can
overrun the weaker ones and quickly deplete
Planting a sink garden available nutrients. Draw a plan of your
Cover the base with a layer of rubble and planting scheme on paper, labelling each herb
then fill one quarter of the sink with gravel. and noting its height and spread. Keeping to
Place a layer of inverted, thinly cut turf over your plan, dig the required number of
the gravel, and then fill the remainder with a planting holes and place your plants in them.
mixture of sand and compost. To add Fill in around each plant with compost, firm,
interest, position a few rocks in the sink as it and water thoroughly. Add a layer of gravel as
is filled, bedding them in well to at least one- a top-dressing.
third of their depth. A sink garden will need to be replanted
from time to time when the nutrients are
exhausted. Carefully remove the plants and
trim their roots and top-growth. Replace the
old compost with new, reposition the herbs
and add a top-dressing of gravel.
Sink garden planting suggestions

Bush basil [Ocimum basilicum var. minimum)
Compact marjoram (Origanum vulgare
'Compactum')
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus 'Alaska'}
Pinks (dianthus)
Rock hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis subsp. aristatus)
Thymes (thymus)
Burying rocks to one-third of their depth
PLANTING A STRAWBERRY POT

A strawberry pot planted with herbs is a very
attractive feature, but bear in mind the
height and spread of the herbs before
planting. Use a frost-resistant planter with
good drainage and good-sized planting holes.
STAGE 1: Place hardcore in the bottom of the

container and add a good layer of multi¬
purpose compost up to the bottom of the
lowest holes. STAGE 3: Continue in this way until the top
is reached. Complete the pot with the crown
STAGE 2: Starting from the bottom, insert the planting. Water the pot well.
herbs into the side pockets. Fill with compost
as you go, making sure that there is room for STAGE 4: Keep the compost moist and feed
the rootball only, with no empty spaces that once a week from spring (when you plant it)
would make air pockets. to late summer.
Strawberry pot planting

suggestions
Side plantings
Thymes
[Thymus 'Hartington Silver')
[Thymus vulgaris 'Silver Posie')
2 x [Thymus serpyllum 'Snowdrift')
2 x Lemon thyme [Thymus x citriodorus)
[Thymus azoricus)
[Thymus serpyllum 'Goldstream')
Orange-scented thyme [Thymus
fragrantissimus)
Creeping savory [Satureja spicigera)
Compact marjoram [Origanum vulgare
'Com pactum')
Crown planting
Golden marjoram, curled [Origanum vulgare
'Aureum Crispum')
Hyssop [Hyssopus officinalis)
Painted sage [Salvia viridis)
Sweet basil [Ocimum basilicum)
A strawberry pot, two months after planting
PATIOS, BALCONIES AND ROOF number of varieties or colours of the same

GARDENS herb, to add interest and impact.
Patios Balconies and roof gardens

Patios are one of the most popular places for First, make sure that your roof will support
containers, where they can be grouped for the materials needed for the garden, or a
maximum impact and to add vibrance and variety of pots. Invest in a structural survey to
colour, enhancing the overall effect. Try ascertain the maximum weight your roof will
containers of contrasting shape, adding plants take. Remember the legalities. Do you need
to suit that shape: trailing herbs in tall pots, planning permission? What about building
for example. regulations? Cost should also be taken into
Give some thought to foliage colours. Red account. You will need timber, compost, pots
and green and red and yellow foliage are and plants - the kind and amount will
good combinations and can be planted in depend upon what you decide to do - but the
individual pots and arranged together in cost could well run into triple figures.
groups. If the patio is paved with slabs, an And yet, what could be more delightful
occasional slab can be lifted and herbs than your very own roof garden, fragrant
planted in the exposed soil. Try to create a with herbs such as tangy lemon verbena and
linking theme between containers, such as a aromatic rosemary, with jasmine, roses and
An array of herb pots on a patio provides interest throughout the growing season
CONTAINER MAINTENANCE
Check and water your containers even after
rain, because the ‘umbrella of leaves prevents
the rain from reaching the compost, making
the plants begin to wilt fairly quickly. Never
allow your tubs and troughs to dry out or to
become waterlogged, and always keep a full
can of water to hand so that the water you
use is at the same temperature as the
atmosphere. Dead head flowers regularly to
prevent self-seeding, and remove decaying
foliage and any dead leaves or wood on a
regular basis. Apply a liquid feed once a
fortnight during summer.
A group of herbs on a balcony aids privacy
honeysuckle growing in profusion? The

weather can, of course, be more extreme on
roofs and balconies, although the impact of
the wind can be lessened by a careful choice
and placing of trellis and fencing. Choose
pots made from fibreglass or other
lightweight substances, and use lightweight
drainage material such as polystyrene, rather
than crocks. These containers will need
careful anchoring, so top the compost with
gravel to hold it down.
A roof garden can be formal or informal.
Try growing Buddleia globosa with its orange
balls of flowers to attract butterflies, and
evergreens such as box for winter interest.
Remember to arrange some of your
containers to create shaded areas where
shade-loving herbs such as pennyroyal, mint,
valerian and woodruff can be planted. Regular watering is essential for potted herbs
A raised bed, made from log slices, approximately two months after planting
RAISED BEDS size which allows you to reach your herbs

If the soil in your garden is heavy clay or easily. Raised beds tend to dry out quickly, so
poorly drained, try growing your herbs in frequent watering will be necessary during
raised beds. They can be any shape you choose hot, dry weather.
and can be constructed from bricks, natural
stone, hardwood railway sleepers and sections Making a raised bed from log slices
of trees. They are ideal for disabled gardeners,
who can garden without bending or from a
wheelchair. Blind gardeners will also have the You will need:
pleasure of scents and textures within easy Log slices, coated with preservative -
those wired together are ideal. The
reach and at a manageable height.
height of the log slices should be that
Make sure your raised bed is of a practical
of the finished bed plus 2.5-5cm [l-2in].
size — the best height being between
Rubble
30cm-lm (12-39in), although 75cm (30in)
Compost
would be an ideal height for wheelchair users.
Waterproof material
Raised beds ensure the drainage that most [optional, depending on site of bed]
herbs need, and the soil, because it is raised, 4 x wire spikes for corners
warms up more quickly in spring, allowing Ball of string
annual herbs to be sown earlier in the year. Short wooden stakes or pegs
Try to make sure that the bed receives some Wooden mallet
sunshine during the day and that it is of a
STAGE 6: Tap the logs into place with a

wooden mallet to ensure a level finish, and
tramp the soil firmly with your feet for
support at the base.
Planting a raised bed
You will need:

Rubble
STAGE 1: Select the site and measure out the
Rough peat or leaf mould
width, depth and height of the bed. Clear the Compost
area, and mark the size with stakes/pegs and string. Selection of herbs
STAGE 2: Dig a shallow trench, 2.5—5cm

(1— 2in) deep, all the way round in which to STAGE 1: After construction, place a
place the ends of the log slices. 7.5-10cm (3-4in) layer of hardcore in the
bottom of the bed to act as a drainage layer.
STAGE 3: Lay the logs along the trench to the
length required. Wired log slices come in STAGE 2: Top with a layer of rough peat or
1.2m (4ft) lengths (approx). If necessary, join leaf mould.
each length together with the wire supplied.
STAGE 3: Finish by filling with a multi¬
STAGE 4: Drive a substantial spike into the purpose compost.
ground at each corner of the bed. Attach the
logs to the spike for support.
Stage 5: If erecting a free-standing bed,

complete the rectangle with logs. If backing
the raised bed on to an existing feature, such
as a wall, then you will only need a front and
two sides. If building against a wall, then the STAGE 4: Plant the herbs, having first
wall will need to be protected with planned the plantings on paper. Water in
waterproof material before the bed is filled. well, and water frequently in hot weather.
5 GROWING AND USING
CULINARY HERBS
Growing and using culinary herbs can be Culinary herbs have highly flavoured leaves,
extremely satisfying. They can transform stems, flowers or seeds and benefit from
everyday dishes, stimulate the appetite and regular harvesting which helps to keep them
aid a balanced diet. They are added as pest free and encourages strong, healthy
flavourings to enhance simple dishes, as well growth. Most species are hardy. Grow them
as giving a touch of luxury to more as near to the kitchen as possible for ease of
adventurous and exotic ones. In fact, they access in all weathers, or site pots of the herbs
help to improve almost all foods. you use most near the kitchen door.
; v. s
A selection of culinary herbs grown in a trough gives a ready supply of herbs near a kitchen door
GROWING AND USING CULINARY HERBS 79
CHOOSING HERBS
When choosing herbs, start with a small
selection that you know you are likely to use.
You can then build upon this foundation,
adding to it, and experimenting with
different flavours as you go along. The most
used culinary herbs are basil, bay, chives,
marjoram, mint, parsley, rosemary, sage,
tarragon and thyme. This selection will
probably provide you with all your
immediate needs.
WTien selecting your herbs, basic
perennials are always a good choice: mint,
fennel, tarragon, thyme and chives, for
example. Other perennials to try are lovage,
rosemary, sage and winter savory. You might Sweet basil, feverfew and marjoram
also add the biennials parsley, caraway and
garlic — although garlic and parsley are
treated as annuals - and the annuals sweet If you like fish, try growing dill, mint, fennel
marjoram and basil. Other annuals that and sorrel {Rumex acetosa). Salad lovers might
could be included are chervil, summer savory care to plant rocket, chervil, salad burnet,
and coriander. You could also grow several sorrel and purslane (Portulaca oleracea), while
species of basil, thyme, marjoram and mint, meat eaters might like to grow rosemary,
all of which would give you a greater range of thyme and juniper {Juniperus communis).
flavours from which to choose. Borage could also be included, but the leaves,
which are succulent and cooling, should be
eaten when young and tender as they become
quite bristly with age.
In early summer, the herbs will need a trim
to keep their foliage leafy and fresh.
Rosemary and thyme should be pruned in
spring, with the soft tips removed throughout
the summer. Give chives a trim in early
summer to produce a second flush of young
leaves that will last through the rest of the
summer. Do not allow your culinary herbs to
flower if you want them to keep on growing
and producing lots of fresh leaves for the pot.
The leaves of plants that are allowed to
flower will be of poor quality, and the plants
themselves will become leggy and sparse. Pick
Chives in flower any new shoots to encourage plant growth.
DESIGNING A SMALL CULINARY Another idea is a chessboard design (see page

HERB GARDEN 14). Each herb would then be kept within its
There are various ways of planning such a own boundaries, and the design could be
garden. Access is an important consideration edged with parsley, or even with bushy
when siting any herb garden. A square plot in thyme. If space permitted, another type of
a cruciform design, for example, will give formal garden could be laid out with a focal
four square beds separated by brick, stone or point in the centre and paths of gravel
crazy-paving paths. A focal point such as a running between the beds of herbs. It could
potted bay, a bird bath or a sundial can then take the form of a square or rectangle and be
be placed at the intersections. Space will enclosed by a hedge of rosemary or lavender.
obviously dictate the size of the garden and Edgings for the individual beds could be of
be the limiting factor regarding the number chervil, curled parsley, lemon thyme, bush
and kinds of herbs you can grow. Some of basil (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum) or
the larger herbs may have to be omitted. If hyssop. A cartwheel (see page 16) is a
space is a real problem, however, the sides of traditional favourite for plantings of culinary
gravel paths and rockeries are ideal for herbs, or try planting a selection of them in a
growing herbs such as thyme, marjoram, herb ladder (see page 19). Sorrel, chervil and
tarragon, rosemary and savory. tarragon would be good subjects for this.
W-n--
vr **
m Hi
v hi>
i
■' ' * | ■
fennel rosemary % angelica
coriander sweet
ciceiy
rragon
mon lemon thyme V, chamomile

PIP *~**1aj\
lemon balm
feverfew
mint
E sorrel
^marjoram
A- , .
chives chives parsley
A plan of a cruciform culinary herb garden

SITING CULINARY HERBS IN THE

VEGETABLE PLOT
The traditional vegetable plot is usually
situated in a sunny, sheltered position and
provides an excellent place for growing herbs.
Ideally, it should face south so that it receives
plenty of sun, and be as close to the house as
possible, with a path leading to and around it
for easy access. Its size and design will be
dictated by the type and amount of
vegetables and herbs you wish to grow.
Should your vegetable plot be sited in a
shady spot, choose herbs that will tolerate
shade: mint, parsley, chervil, marjoram and
sorrel, for example. You could also try
companion planting, selecting those herbs
suited to the well-being of the vegetables:
sweet basil, for instance, is often grown with
tomatoes to deter whitefly.
Rocket grown in an informal setting
Why not plant an informal culinary herb

garden with a variety of herbs arranged
randomly together according to size, habit
and planting needs, and with stepping stones
in between them for ease of maintenance and
harvesting? Try chervil, thyme, chives, sweet
basil, tarragon, mint, rosemary, dill, summer
savory, marjoram and parsley. The whole
garden could then be surrounded by a hedge
of lavender, rosemary or hyssop.
Alternatively, your culinary herb garden
could take the form of a corner plot, backed
on two sides by a wall or fence. Taller herbs,
such as angelica, fennel and lovage could be
grouped towards the back, with herbs such as
lemon balm, sage, tarragon, salad burnet and
borage to the front of them. Parsley, thyme Lemon mint has attractive foliage as well as a
and chives could provide a front border. delightful scent

Potagers
The French idea of a potager, where herbs,
vegetables and fruit are grown together, is
another idea. If space is limited, a potager
3—4m (10—13ft) will produce a reasonable
range and quantity of produce. The
vegetables and fruit could be interspersed
with herbs such as sorrel, mint, chervil and
chives and there could be a central focal
point of lavender and marigolds planted in a
large tub.
To make it look more attractive, it could
be enclosed in low, wooden border sections,
inside which an edging of various thymes —
lemon and common thyme, for example - Lavender and marigolds, in a container, make an
could be planted. attractive combination as a centrepiece
espaliered fruit trees
rosemary
rosemary
aubergine
cauliflower
turnips
rocket
chant omit
wigwam of
runner
beans
chervil lemon
balnn
mint
spring
onions
' cabbages
carrots s
feverfew
parsley
A plan of a neatly arranged potager, combining a variety of herbs, vegetables and some fruit trees
If you prefer to grow more herbs than In order to produce succulent crops, your
vegetables, then you should consider potager will need fertile soil, rich in organic
replacing vegetable crops with herbs such as matter. So, if you are starting from scratch,
marjoram, sage, thyme, parsley, rosemary, you will need to dig the plot, incorporating
and lemon balm. Plant perennial herbs such plenty of rich compost as you go along,
as marjoram, thyme and chives near the especially to soils that are heavy to start with.
edges of the potager so that they are handy Remember not to overcrowd your potager,
for harvesting. Annual and biennial herbs and try not to sow seed in rows, better to
such as chervil, dill, borage, coriander and broadcast it over its own particular section.
rocket (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa) can be Lettuce and radish, for example, can be sown
planted in convenient gaps, but remember a little at a time, and the exercise repeated
that these gaps will exist again once the herbs every few weeks. Keep the soil fertile, but do
are removed at the end of the growing season. not overfeed.
A three-dimensional view of a potager, showing a border of split logs and bisected by paths for easy access
POPULAR CULINARY HERBS

All culinary herbs are relatively simple to
grow. As a beginner, it makes sense to buy a
few perennial herbs such as bay, rosemary
and sage to get you started. The selection of
plants at specialist herb nurseries is much
wider than at your local garden centre, so
they are worth a visit. You can grow some
perennials from seed, but bear in mind that if
you do, you will not be able to harvest the
plants until they are fully grown.
Ten of the best culinary herbs

Sweet basil
A delicate, half-hardy annual growing 45cm
(18in) high, sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum)
has light green leaves and produces creamy-
white flowers in small spikes in summer. It
has a mild aniseed, clove-like flavour, likes
the sun, and flourishes in a rich, light, well-
drained soil. A selection of basils can be grown together and
Seed should be sown in a seed tray at a placed near the kitchen door
temperature above 13°C (55°F) in mid- to
late spring under cover. Keep watering to a
minimum after germination. When large left on the plant. Keep watering to a
enough to handle, prick out the seedlings minimum and water in the morning - the
into individual pots filled with a free- herb hates wet roots at night.
draining compost. Bush basil (Ocimum basilicum var.
Don’t plant them outside until all risk of minimum), known also as Greek basil, is a
frost has passed. WTen planting, space the compact variety, reaching a height of only
plants about 23-30cm (9-12in) apart. 15—30cm (6— 12in), making it ideal for
Seed can also be sown during early to mid¬ container growing.
summer and the plants brought indoors in Other varieties include cinnamon basil
early autumn. 0Ocimum basilicum ‘Cinnamon’), with its
Pinch out the growing tips when the plants spicy, slightly cinnamon flavour, ‘Dark Opal’
have made growth of around 30-45cm basil (Ocimum basilicum var. aurauascens ‘Dark
(12—18in). This will prevent them from Opal’) with its dark, purple-black leaves, the
flowering and produce bushier plants. frilly lettuce-leaf basil (Ocimum basilicum var.
When harvesting, pick the leaves from the lactucafolium), with its sweet tasting leaves, or
top of the plant. The bottom pair of leaves Purple Ruffles’ (Ocimum basilicum var.
die off continually, so, when picking, make aurauascens ‘Purple Ruffles’), another
sure that there are at least two pairs of leaves ornamental variety that is extremely tasty.
Sweet or knotted marjoram plant grows to a height of 60cm (24in), and

Several marjorams are generally available, but has small leaves, hairy stems and pink or
three are important in the area of cooking: white flowers.
sweet or knotted marjoram (Origanum Wild marjoram is also known as oregano
majorana), pot marjoram (Origanum onites) and is the easiest of the marjorams to grow. It
and wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare). benefits from lime and needs a well-drained
Sweet marjoram, a tender perennial usually soil and sunshine. Wild marjoram, which has
treated as a half-hardy annual in temperate a good, strong flavour, dies back in autumn,
climates, is fairly mild and safe to use in and its roots should be protected from the
quantity. It grows to around 30cm (12in) in cold during winter with a light covering of
height and has small, greyish green leaves leaf mould.
which have an unusual sweet taste and are Pot and wild marjorams depend less on
slightly hairy. Small, round heads, like knots, warmth than sweet marjoram, and are
of creamy flowers appear in mid- to late therefore easier to grow. Cuttings of
summer. Sweet marjoram dislikes the cold. marjoram can be taken in early summer and
Seed should be sown in trays in mid-spring roots can be divided in spring or autumn.
and seedlings planted out in late spring at a
spacing of 15cm (6in) apart. Seed can also be Bay
sown outside in late spring in a fertile, well- Bay (Laurus nobilis) is a native of the
drained, medium soil and a sunny position. Mediterranean countries and is very slow
The seedlings grow slowly and good weeding growing. It has smooth, lanceolate, shiny,
is very important. leathery, deep green leaves that dry well and
Pot marjoram, a perennial herb, can be have a pungent smell. Small, yellow flowers
grown for winter use, even though it is less appear in late spring which, on the female
well flavoured than sweet marjoram. The plant, are followed by glossy, blackish berries.
Pot marjoram can be grown for winter use Bay is slow growing and needs a sheltered position
A perennial, tender, evergreen tree, it can summer. It likes a light, well-drained soil in a
grow to around 9m (30ft) in temperate sheltered, half-shaded position.
climates, and is often trained as a standard or Chervil, which is propagated by seed only,
a pyramid. It should be planted in a sheltered can be sown several times out of doors from
position in a light, well-drained soil. In cold late spring to mid-summer for a succession of
areas, plant it in a container and overwinter leafy plants. Seed can also be sown in late
indoors. Bay looks most attractive when summer for indoor winter supplies. The seed
grown in a tub: keep it cut back to a central should be sown where the herb is to grow, as
stem and give it a dressing of fertilizer a chervil doesn’t like being transplanted. Sow
couple of times a year. Don’t allow the soil in in shallow drills and cover lightly with soil.
the tub to dry out. Young bay trees are The seed will germ inate very quickly and
planted in autumn or spring; viable seed is should be kept moist. Seedlings should be
virtually impossible to obtain. Heel cuttings thinned to about 15cm (6in) apart, and the
can be taken in mid-spring, or half-ripe leaves can usually be cut six to eight weeks
cuttings in late summer and placed in a cold after sowing. Chervil will quickly run to seed
frame in pots. These can be planted out in a in hot, dry conditions.
nursery bed during the following autumn
where they should remain for two years. Salad burnet
Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor) is a
Chervil perennial growing to a height of about 45cm
Chervil (.Anthriscus cerefolium) is a hardy (18in). It is a decorative, hardy plant, with a
biennial, usually grown as an annual. It grows dense rosette of leaves from which stems of
to a height of 50cm (20in). It has small, small, toothed, green leaves spray out. The
feathery, green leaves which have a slightly young foliage is cucumber scented and lace¬
peppery and parsley-like flavour. Umbels of like in appearance. The older foliage tastes
small, white flowers appear from early to late bitter. The herb has purple-tinted, round
Chervil is enjoyed by salad lovers, eaten fresh Salad burnet keeps its leaves during winter
heads of tiny, green flowers throughout the flowers which appear in winter is an
summer. Cut the flower stems to ensure a evergreen perennial sub-shrub. The white-
good supply of fresh leaves and to prevent flowered Salvia officinalis ‘Albiflore’ is
the plant from self-seeding. extremely elegant, growing to a height of
Salad burnet is easily grown from seed in 60-80cm (24-32in), while the compact
mid-spring in an open, sunny position. Thin yellow-leaved sage Salvia officinalis ‘Kew
out the seedlings to 30cm (12in) apart. Gold’, just 30cm (12in) high, is a lovely
Established plants can be propagated by addition to any herb bed or border. Painted
division in early spring. Salad burnet keeps sage {Salvia viridis), with its erect stems,
its leaves during winter, so it can be used in downy leaves and showy purple bracts, is
winter salads. another delightful addition as is the colourful

Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica.
Sage Sage enjoys a dry, sunny spot, sheltered
There are some 900 species of sage (salvia) from the cold wind, preferring a light, well-
which are mostly aromatic and mainly drained, slightly chalky soil. Once established
evergreen perennial shrubs and sub-shrubs. in the garden, it will produce new branches
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans ‘Scarlet every year. Two- or three-year-old bushes tend
Pineapple’) with its pointed pineapple-like to become straggly, and any new branches
scented leaves and spikes of red to pink should be removed to make new plants.
Sage grows quickly from seed or cuttings and requires little attention
Sage grows quickly from seed or cuttings and

needs very little attention. Fresh plants
should be planted in a different place; sage
doesn’t do well if replanted in the same soil.
Seed should be sown in mid- to late spring in
shallow drills, and lightly covered with soil.
Cuttings can be taken from early spring to
early autumn, and these will root quickly if
given some bottom heat. They can be taken
with a ‘heel’ and planted in an open, sunny
position. Sage can also be propagated by
layering, the side shoots that have been
pinned down rooting in about eight weeks.
Alternatively, the herb can be increased by
mound layering. Sage will not always survive
a hard winter. Coriander seeds are a delicate spice, used in
curries and other Eastern dishes
Coriander
Coriander (Conundrum sativum) is a slender
annual that grows to about 60cm (24in) in
height. The leaves are mid-green and divided,
broad at the base of the plant and finer
towards the top. The flowers are very pale
mauve or pinky-white, and they bloom in
clusters from early to late summer. The whole
plant has a strong smell about it until the
seeds ripen in late summer. The seeds are
large, round and yellowish-brown in colour
and are where the fragrance is concentrated.
Once they have ripened, they develop an
agreeable, aromatic perfume similar to honey
and oranges.
Seed should be sown in spring in a sunny
position and kept well watered to encourage leaf
growth from the base. Sow in a free-draining
soil where the herb is to grow: coriander doesn’t
like being transplanted. Germination is quick,
and the herb will produce leaves until the first
frosts. Seed can also be sown in succession
The flowers of coriander are followed by its seeds throughout the summer.
Tarragon should be given in winter, particularly if the

Tarragon is a perennial herb that grows to plant is young. New, bright green shoots will
60cm (2ft) in both height and spread. French start to appear in early spring.
tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is the variety
to grow because of its distinctive, delicate Dill
flavour. It bears spikes of greenish-yellow Dill (Anethum graveolens also Peucedanum
flowers in mid- to late summer. Russian graveolens) is a hardy annual rather like
tarragon (Artemisia dracunculoides) is taller fennel to look at, growing to a height of lm
than the French variety, looks very similar, (39in). It has feathery, very finely divided
but has coarse, tasteless leaves. leaves and a hollow stem. Umbels of small,
Tarragon has spreading, underground dull, yellow flowers appear in mid- to late
runners which must be given plenty of room. summer, to be followed by brown, ridged,
It should be renewed every three years and aromatic seeds.
almost never sets seed in temperate climates. Seed should be sown in shallow drills in
It is propagated by root offshoots and stem mid-spring where it is to grow. Sow in rows
cuttings in spring. Pieces of root should be about 30cm (12in) apart and thin to 22.5cm
7.5cm (3in) long and stem cuttings 5cm (9in). A second sowing in mid-summer will
(2in) in length. The cuttings root readily in a produce a further supply in autumn.
sandy soil. Germination usually takes around three
Tarragon is hard to establish and should be weeks, depending on the temperature of the
planted in winter when it is dormant. It likes soil. Dill likes a light, medium-rich soil with
a well-drained soil and sunny position. The plenty of moisture and grows well in cool
sun brings out its full flavour, and it has a conditions and a sheltered spot. The plants
stronger flavour if cut often. It will not will run to seed if they become too dry. If a
tolerate a wet soil, preferring a light, fairly few plants are allowed to produce flower-
dry one, not too rich in fertilizer. Protection heads, the herb will self-seed.
Tarragon is a difficult plant to establish Dill produces aromatic brown, ridged seeds
Winter savory is a small, woody perennial. Its leaves are particularly aromatic
Savory flavour. Both savories will grow in poor,

There are three types of savory, all of which stony soil, provided that it is free-draining.
are similar in flavour. Winter savory (.Satureja Creeping winter savory (Satureja spicigerri)
montana) is a small, woody perennial, while has strongly flavoured, deep green foliage
summer savory (Satureja hortensis) is an with white flowers about 6mm (Win) long
annual. Winter savory has thin, dark green, that appear in late summer and continue into
very aromatic leaves. The flowers, which early autumn. It grows to a height of 6cm
appear in late summer/early autumn can be (2Win) with a spread of 30cm (12in). It is an
almost white, pink or pale purple. Winter ideal plant for a herb rockery (see pages 128-9).
savory can be grown from seed or propagated
by division in spring, or from 5cm (2in) soft
tip cuttings taken in late spring. Cut back in
spring to keep the herb compact.
Summer savory grows to a height of
around 50cm (20in) and has small, pointed
green leaves and tiny white or pinkish
flowers. The seed should be sown where the
plant is to grow in spring, in drills 6mm
(Win) deep. Seedlings should be thinned to
15cm (6in) apart in rows 30cm (12in) apart.
Summer savory has a spicy, almost peppery Creeping winter savory hugs the ground
USING CULINARY HERBS IN

COOKING
Basil
Use in tomato salads and sauces, pesto or
pistou sauce, and to make basil vinegar for
salads. Chop it into omelettes, or use it in
soups. A favourite in Provencal cooking: the
French call it herbe royale.
Bay
Use the leaves in bouquet garni, pates,
marinades. Use also in stews, soups and
casseroles.
Borage Fennel has fine, feathery leaves and yellow flowers

Young borage leaves, with their cucumber
taste, can be used in salads. The blue flowers
look good in summer drinks, Pimm’s in Chervil
particular. They can also be scattered over Chervil is best eaten fresh. Chop the leaves
salads for colour, or frozen into ice cubes. into green salads, or mix with a mayonnaise
or soured cream dressing for cucumber
salads. Add to soups shortly before cooking is
completed. Also use in sauces and egg dishes.
Chives
Fresh chives can be snipped over salads,
beaten into soft cheeses and added to
scrambled eggs, sauces and salad dressings.
Dill
The seed heads can be found in pickled
cucumber and the seeds alone take the place
of caraway in the breads and cakes of some
countries. Fresh dill leaves can be used with
fish and in delicate sauces. It freezes well and
makes a very good vinegar.
Fennel
Fennel has an aniseed-like flavour and can be
used with fish, pork and veal. It is also used
Borage flowers appear from early summer onwards in Italian cooking. Freezes and dries well.
Garlic Mint
Can be added to stews, casseroles, pasta, There are many varieties of mint, of which
salads and butters. A touch of garlic is very spearmint is the favourite for cooking.
good in sauces. Pull off single cloves as Sprinkle fresh mint over salads, and preserve
required, peel, and slice or crush. it by making it into mint jelly or mint sauce
to serve with lamb. It dries and freezes well.
Horseradish
A pungent flavour, best known in horseradish Parsley
sauce made from the finely grated, thick, Parsley, often used as a garnish, can be added
white roots of the plant. This sauce is very to fish and white meat dishes, as well as to
good served with roast beef or fish. stuffings, sauces and egg dishes. It is an
important ingredient of bouquet garni. It
Lemon balm forms the basis of fines herbes, and is an
Lemon balm, with its pungent, lemon- important ingredient of sauces such as
scented leaves, is one of the main ingredients vinaigrette, sauce verte and ravigote. A small
of the liqueur chartreuse. It is delicious in bunch can be added to casseroles and stews.
long, cool, summer drinks and in sauces. It
makes a wonderfully refreshing tea. Dries and
freezes well.
Lovage
The leaves and stems of lovage taste very like
celery, but they should be used sparingly as
their flavour is strong. Lovage is good added
to soups and can be used in salads. The stems
can be candied and the seeds added to cream
cheese. The leaves dry and freeze well.
Marjoram
There are various varieties of marjoram, all
with a slightly sweet, spicy taste. The strength
of the taste depends upon where the
marjoram is grown, because it is the sun that
makes the difference to the pungency of
flavour. Wild marjoram tastes slightly bitter
and less peppery. Sweet marjoram is less
bitter, while pot marjoram has a slightly
stronger flavour than the sweet variety. Use in
salads, sprinkled over tomatoes, in casseroles,
pates, sausages and stuffings. Sweet marjoram
gives a sweet, mild flavour to dishes, such as
pasta and pizza. Curly spearmint is an ornamental cultivar
Savory
Summer savory, with its rather bitter flavour,
is traditionally cooked with broad beans and
peas. It goes well in sausages and stuffings,
and can be sprinkled sparingly over salads. It
doesn’t dry very well but can be frozen.
Sorrel
Young sorrel leaves can be snipped over salads
or added to omelettes. They also puree well.
Never cook sorrel in an iron pan. If you do,
it will develop a metallic taste. Sorrel leaves
freeze well for later use.
Sweet cicely
Sweet cicely is a natural sweetener and can be
stewed with fruit such as rhubarb or
gooseberries, counteracting the acidity of the
Parsley grows well when its roots are cool fruit. It can be used in summer puddings,
jellies, mousses and fruit salads. All parts of
the plant have a sweetish taste with a hint of
Rosemary aniseed, but the leaves are the part to use.
Rosemary has a pungent flavour and is good
with lamb, pork, rabbit or game. Use it in Tarragon
marinades, to flavour oils and vinegars and in French tarragon is the variety to use, but it
biscuits or scones. The flowers'can be should be used sparingly as it has a strong
crystallized or used to flavour sugar. aniseed flavour. Use it in omelettes, soups
and to accompany chicken. It is excellent
Salad burnet with scrambled eggs and the leaves can be

Salad burnet can be mixed with vegetables in chopped into salads, stuffings and sauces.
soups, and its fresh, young, cucumber-tasting French tarragon can be found in mayonnaise,
leaves are good in salads or sandwiches. It can and in Bernaise, Hollandaise and tartare
be finely chopped to make a herb butter, and sauces. It is also an ingredient of fines herbes.
it is an important ingredient of the French

sauce, ravigote. Thyme
Common or garden thyme, with its spicy
Sage flavour, is excellent in casseroles and soups,
Sage leaves are very aromatic and excellent and also with root vegetables. It can be mixed
with poultry and certain meats. The dried, with parsley for stuffings, and is also used in
crumbled leaves are good in sage and onion pates and various kinds of sausages. It is also
stuffing. When frying liver, add sage to the good with oily Fish. Thyme can be dried, but
butter. Its flavour is strong, so use sparingly. it does not freeze very well.
6 HERBS FOR FRAGRANCE
AND COLOUR
A garden designed for fragrance and colour is combinations, after which texture and form
a source of pleasure for both the gardener may become apparent.
who created it and the visitors who delight in It is, however, difficult to achieve a note of
its charm. Colour, however, needs to be used brilliant colour with herbs. Their shades are
with discretion: a dominant colour will only mostly low-toned and subtle, which is ideal,
work in contrast with its surroundings. So, as colour in the herb garden needs to be
for maximum impact, it is sensible to use a discreet. There are, of course, some
predominance of less vibrantly coloured flamboyant herbs with vibrant coloured
plants which will work best in simple flowers such as vivid red and yellow
designs. Bear in mind that it is usually colour nasturtiums, bright red poppies, vivid orange
alone that initially draws the eye to plant marigolds and luscious red peonies.
Yellow Californian poppies are annuals that can be planted in drifts to fill gaps in a mixed border
HERBS FOR FRAGRANCE AND COLOUR 95
The perfume of lavender is strongest in its flowers, which are often dried and used to scent linen and clothes
EXAMPLES OF HERBS TO PLANT L. angustifolia Toddon Pink’ with its vivid

Lavender green foliage and lilac pink flowers from mid-
Lavender makes a delightful mass of colour to late summer, or ‘Munstead’ with its
and its flowers, which are very aromatic, last lavender-blue flowers from early to late
for weeks. There are many different species summer, or ‘Hidcote’ with deep, rich violet
and forms of lavender, two of the most flowers that bloom also from early to late
common varieties being French lavender summer.
(.Lavandula stoechas) and English lavender All lavenders need full sun, an open
(.Lavandula angustifolia). French lavender position and good drainage as they hate
forms an attractive shrub with narrow leaves having their roots in water. Seed, which is
and tight whorls of small, dark purple flowers variable, can be sown from early spring to
with purple tufts called bracts. It thrives in early summer, but germination can be erratic
light soil, sand or gravel, in a sunny position. and slow. It is much better to grow the herb
English lavender grows to 60-90cm from softwood cuttings taken in mid- to late
(24—36in) high, with pointed, narrow, grey spring. The cuttings, 10cm (4in) long,
leaves and flowers of deep mauve which should be taken from strong sideshoots and
appear in summer and grow in long spikes. inserted into sandy compost. They are
It is ideal for planting as a low hedge. There usually slow to root, taking six to eight weeks
are other varieties, including L. dentata, in spring. Lavender can also be propagated
L. pinnata, and the white flowering L. alba. from heel cuttings taken in late summer or
Most of the English lavenders, however, are early autumn. Keep the plants well trimmed
forms or hybrids of L. angustifolia. Try to prevent the herb becoming too woody and
growing traditional favourites such as straggly in growth.

Pot marigold
Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) is a daisy¬
like, hardy annual that will grow well when
planted in full sun in a well-drained soil. Pot
marigolds, which grow to a height of
30—50cm (12-20in), have pale green,
oblong, pointed or blunt-tipped leaves which
are slightly hairy. The flowers are usually a
rich, deep orange or, less commonly, yellow,
and bloom throughout the summer months The leaves of lemon verbena have a strong fragrance
— they are at their peak in late summer —
until the first frosts of autumn, if they are
regularly dead headed. If you intend to eat Lemon verbena
the marigolds make sure they are of the Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) is a graceful
Calendula officinalis variety. Never eat any shrub which grows to a height of around 2m
member of the tagetes species. (6ft 6in). It has long, tapering, light green
Sow the seed 12mm (V5in) deep outside in leaves and clusters of somewhat insignificant,
late spring directly into its growing position. lemon-scented, pinkish-lilac flowers which
Thin the seedlings to 30cm (12in) apart to appear in late summer. A half-hardy
allow for spreading. Seed can also be sown perennial, it is easy to cultivate in a cool
under glass in mid-spring and the seedlings climate against a sunny garden wall or in a
transplanted. The plants will self-seed if some large pot. Keep it in a large container in cold
flower heads are left on. areas, and, if possible, move it under cover
during winter. If left outside, the plant
should be cut down and the roots covered
with straw. Lemon verbena prefers a light,
well-drained soil. A dry, arid soil will help
keep it sturdy, but weak, soft, lush growth
will result if planted in a richer, moister soil.
In some countries, seed can be difficult to
obtain, so stem cuttings, which root quickly,
should be taken in late spring or early
summer. To plant lemon verbena, dig a
planting hole about 30cm (12in) deep in late
spring and place the plant in it. Keep the roots
well-watered until it establishes itself. Young
shoots will appear in early summer when the
plant should be lightly pruned to cut out any
dead wood, and to shorten some of the shoots
so that a good shape is maintained. Harvest
lemon verbena in late summer when the plant
Pot marigolds overhanging the edge of a border is at least one year old.
Bergamot depth of 6mm (Ain), and the seedlings

The whole plant of Monarda didyma has a thinned and transplanted when large enough.
lemon-orange scent, and is very attractive to Bergamot likes a rich, warm, moist soil with
bees, hence its name ‘bee balm’. It is a a cool root run, so it flourishes best in part
decorative perennial herb standing about shade. Work some compost into the soil
60-90cm (2-3ft) high, with slightly toothed, before planting.
hairy leaves, and whorls of scarlet, mauve,
white or pink flowers from early summer to Cotton lavender
early autumn. The red-flowering bergamot is A shrubby perennial (Santolina
known as Oswego tea because, it is said, the chamaecyparissus) that grows to a height of
Oswego tribe of American Indians brewed a 30-60cm (12—24in). It has strongly scented,
herb tea or tisane from its leaves. feathery, silver-grey leaves, woolly in texture.
Bergamot is increased by division of its The stem is also silvery and woolly, and
fibrous roots in spring or by cuttings taken in brownish towards the base. The button-like
autumn. The roots can be divided every flowers in a clear lemon yellow appear in
other year, but only the outer shoots of the mid-summer.
roots should be used for replanting as the The herb enjoys a fertile, light, well-
inner part of the established plant tends to drained soil in a position of full sun,
die. It can be grown from seed which should although it is happy in most soils. It can be
be sown in trays in early to mid-spring to a grown from semi-ripe cuttings taken in
summer, by root division in spring, or by
layering the older stems in summer. Pinch
out the growing points to keep the plant
bushy. Clip back the plants in spring to keep
them in shape, and again after flowering.
Cotton lavender makes a very good hedge
and a suitable edging herb. Plants should be
placed about 90cm (3ft) apart.
Bergamot flowers can be white, pink, mauve or Cotton lavender is popular as an ornamental shrub
scarlet, and the leaves are lemon scented and contrasts well with darker hedging plants
Anise hyssop
Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum syn.
Agastache anethiodora) is a North American
mint that grows to a height of 90cm (3ft).
It is a hardy perennial that dies down every
winter. Its pointed leaves, which have a
distinct aniseed smell, grow on short stalks
and have pale undersides and serrated
margins. It bears spikes of pale purple flowers
from mid- to late summer. It is mainly
ornamental and likes sunny, but cool,
weather. Anise hyssop is happy to grow in
almost any type of soil and can cope with
light shade.
Seed should be sown under cover in spring
and softwood cuttings taken in summer. It
can be short-lived, so increase your supply
from cuttings every two or three years. The
herb will self-seed and can be propagated by
root division.
Southernwood
Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum) is a
small perennial shrub with woody stems
and feathery, grey-green leaves, which are
downy. It has an aromatic perfume, rather
like camphor, and if it flowers - in some
Curry plant is effective as an insect repellent countries it doesn’t - the yellow-white flowers
are small. Also known as ‘Lad’s Love’, it
produces long, woody stems and grows to a
Curry plant height of 1.2m (4ft).
A shrubby perennial (Helichrysum italicum It can be grown from softwood cuttings
syn. H. angustifolium) that grows to a height taken in late spring/early summer, or by heel
of 60cm (24in) with a spread of lm (39in). cuttings in autumn. The cuttings will root
It has strongly pepper-scented, silver foliage easily and grow quickly in fine weather.
and bears yellow button-like flowers in When planting, leave about 38cm (15in)
summer. Its scent is strongest after rain. It is between each plant.
only just hardy and thrives in a sunny, Southernwood should be cut back in
sheltered position and a well-drained soil. spring to two buds of the previous year’s
Seed can be sown in spring and it can also be growth to promote foliage. It can be planted
propagated by stem cuttings in late summer. in any odd spot and is not fussy regarding
Protect the roots from frost in colder areas. soil or climate.
Rue
Rue (Ruta graveolens) is a hardy perennial
that grows to about 60cm (24in) high. It has
distinctive, green-blue, finely cut, aromatic
leaves and umbels of small, soft yellow
flowers. Rue can be grown from seed sown in
mid-spring, and the seedlings transplanted
when large enough to handle at a distance of
about 30cm (12in) apart. The herb can be
propagated by stem cuttings in late spring
and summer and also by root division. It will
also self-seed if allowed to. Clip the plants
every alternate spring to encourage bushy
growth. Rue is principally a decorative herb —
try ‘Jackman’s Blue’, which has much bluer
leaves. It can irritate the skin, so always wear
gloves when handling it. Large quantities of
the leaves can be poisonous.
Decorative rue will grow almost anywhere
Woodruff
Woodruff (Galium odoratum) is a hardy
perennial that grows to a height of 15-30cm
(6-12in). It has slender, erect, spreading
stems and whorls of slightly glossy, green
leaves which, when dried, have a scent like
new-mown hay. Small, white, star-like
flowers appear in late spring. It can be grown
from seed sown in mid-spring, 3mm (Vsin)
deep in a light, damp, humus-rich soil in
light shade. Seed takes a long time to
germinate. The herb can be increased by root
division in early spring. Young plants should
be planted 20cm (8in) apart. Woodruff is a
carpeting, ground-cover herb that enjoys
Southernwood is a hardy, aromatic shrub being under trees as well as in open borders.
DESIGNING A SCENTED HERB

GARDEN Other herbs for a scented garden
A cottage-garden-type layout is ideal for Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
planting herbs with scented flowers and Basil (ocimum]
leaves. By growing a well-chosen variety of Clary sage (Salvia sclarea)
fragrant, aromatic herbs, your garden will be Clove carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus)
redolent with a wide range of scents: aromatic Cowslip (Primula veris)
and spicy, sweet and tangy. It will also attract Cumin (Cuminum cyminum)
a multitude of butterflies and bees, and each Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis]
herb will provide colour, form and texture. Melilot (Melilotus officinalis)
An aromatic herb garden is the place for Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium)
scented herbs of all kinds, ranging from roses, Rue (Ruta graveolens)
honeysuckle, jasmine, mint and rosemary, to Scented-leaf geranium (pelargonium)
sage, lavender and a variety of thymes. Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata)
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Planning the garden
When planning the garden, consider
positioning your herbs on various levels, pink blossoms or Rosa rubiginosa with its smell
ranging from arbours, trellises and hanging of stewed apples. The rich, sweet fragrance of
baskets above, down to chamomile and the pink rambler Albertine’ is also hard to beat.
thyme at your feet. Try also to inject a feeling For fragrance and ease of cultivation, grow the
of seclusion by the use of fencing, hedges or Rosa rugosa roses. They will not only scent the
walls to enclose the whole garden and protect air, but will produce huge hips full of vitamin C
it from the wind while allowing its mingled for making rosehip jam or syrup.
perfumes to hang on the breeze. You might also like to grow clematis:
Plant a climbing sweet briar rose such as Rosa Clematis flammula or ‘Fragrant Bower’ is
eglanteria, with its apple-scented leaves and quite beautiful with large clusters of creamy
A white Rugosa rose with dark green divided leaves Rose hips are both decorative and useful
wall
hanging baskets
chamomile
>ronze 'Treneague'
fenneL
n
popples
sweets
tWTff*’ r/VV| Qx—3W** 'C/V-uu

• , .aSiiieappi^/ catmint
I lolin|J%inint / jg
cotton'
/lavender
iyss||/
# r <&# rfewj* ^
' •> ^ mj|e | A pot of myrtle makes an
c > anise i? \
ideal focal point at the centre
e < icorsican mint
'UyvA^ 4/VAy
lavender
* '*ywvVv*J v*VV'l'v 'vv^vv~wwvv'
A design for a scented herb garden, where fragrant plants of all kinds and sizes can be grown
white flowers and a delightful, sweet perfume.

Herbs come in a succession of lovely colours.
The earliest to bloom are rosemary, the purple
and white violets, and lungwort with its soft
rose colour. Later come the yellow star flowers
of the shrubby St John’s wort, the rich sapphire
of hyssop and the scarlet of bergamot, while
the purple bronze of red sage (Salvia officinalis
Turpurascens Group’) and the pretty, white
daisies of chamomile lend emphasis to the
delicacy of pink and white foxgloves. All of
these plants can grow in harmony with
aromatic, sweet-scented herbs such as
marjoram; savory; green, silver and gold
thyme; the velvety sages and the lavenders.
Any herb garden cultivated for its scent
and colour will need a number of paths and
small beds, somewhere to sit, with pots or
raised beds near the seat. Use trellis and Foxgloves, although poisonous, are eye-catching
It is always important to ensure that you have

a seasonal balance of herbs. Evergreens such
as rosemary, lavender, box and bay will
ensure greenery all year round. For spring
colour, bronze fennel, Foeniculum vulgare
‘Purpureum’, produces feathery, bronze-
coloured foliage from early spring. Or try
lovage, with its parsley-like flowers and soft
green, divided leaves. Angelica, primroses,
sweet violets and lily of the valley also make
welcome springtime visitors.
The myrtle, Myrtus communis ‘Flore Pleno’,
will flower into the autumn, and pineapple
sage (Salvia elegans ‘Scarlet Pineapple’) will
produce rich spikes of scarlet flowers during
Pineapple mint has pretty, variegated foliage winter. The autumn crocus, Colchicum
autumnale, has lilac or purple flowers, and the
tall sunflower, Helianthus annuus, with its
arbours as support for climbing jasmines, colourful blooms of cream, yellow or gold,
hops and honeysuckles. The giant will flower well into the autumn, as will
honeysuckle, Lonicera hildebrandiana creates bergamot and lemon verbena.
the perfect foil for pink roses. Hedges of
sweet briar, old roses, lavender, rosemary and
cotton lavender will ensure that every part of
the garden is sweetly perfumed.
Base your garden around the greys and
greens of the most shrubby, aromatic herbs.
Flowering herbs such as hyssop, scarlet
bergamot, yellow elecampane, evening
primrose and meadowsweet (Filipendula
ulmaria) can then be planted amongst them.
Creeping thyme, creeping chamomile with its
fruity scent, and prostrate mints such as
Corsican mint (also known as woolly mint,
Mentha requienii) or applemint (Mentha
suaveolens) can be grown in the cracks
between paving stones or in gravel paths.
Borders of violets and double-flowered
chamomile can line paths and pour over
them. Shrubby artemisias and catmints,
interwoven with woodruff and variegated
pineapple mint, can also be planted. Bronze fennel grows up to 2m (6ft 6in] tail
HERBS THAT ATTRACT BEES AND groups of five or six. Bees don’t like being
BUTTERFLIES buffeted by the wind, so some sort of
All herb gardens make a feeding paradise for windbreak, such as a hedge or trellis, should
bees and butterflies because herbs are usually be provided to shelter the site.
highly perfumed and rich in nectar. These To encourage bees, plant the herbs that
insects depend upon a wide selection of they love, such as bergamot - known as ‘bee
plants for their survival, and herbs, with their balm’, poppies, mint, heartsease, edgings of
strong scents and simple flowers, attract catmint and borage, and box. Bees also love
them. It is hardly surprising that a bee hive the flowers of sage, thyme, lavender, mint,
was often the centrepiece of medieval herb hyssop and rosemary. Always choose those
gardens and that, traditionally, various herbs herbs that will provide nectar and pollen for
were grown around it, although bees will the longest possible time. Herbs such as
forage for up to half a mile from the hive. hyssop, fennel, sage, basil, horehound,
rosemary, the marjorams and mints and both
Attracting bees summer and winter savory will supply nectar
The herb garden should be in full sun to throughout the season when bees are foraging.
attract bees, and herbs should be planted in Contented bees need a succession of such
As well as the more traditional herbs, bees enjoy the large, striking flowers of the sunflower plant
plants and, even in winter, snowdrops, crocus

and lungwort will provide nectar for bees
that leave hibernation early. The wallflower,
which used to be called ‘bee flower’, is
among the best of spring bee herbs, and
primroses and cowslips are also popular.
Anise hyssop is an important bee plant, and
Korean mint (.Agastache rugosa) is worth
cultivating. You could grow calamint, which
flowers from mid-summer to mid-autumn,
and autumn crocus, which will provide
nectar from early to late autumn.
Provide the garden with hellebores in early
spring. A hedge of holly and ivy will supply
nectar flowers in both spring and autumn.
Foxgloves have adapted their flowers to
attract bees: the spots in their throats lead the
bees to the nectar. Marigolds attract bees and other beneficial insects
Other herbs for the bee garden

Basil (ocimum)
Comfrey [Symphytum officinale)
Dyer's bugloss (Alkanna tinctoria)
Evening primrose [Oenothera biennis)
Fennel [Foeniculum vulgare)
Feverfew [Tanacetum parthenium formerly
Chrysanthemum)
German chamomile [Matricaria recutita)
Lavenders (lavandula)
Meadowsweet [Filipenduia ulmaria)
Mullein [Verbascum thapsus)
Musk mallow [Maiva moschata)
Poppy (papaver)
Purple loosestrife [Lythrum salicaria)
Sages (salvia)
Savory (satureja)
Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare)
Vervain [Verbena officinalis)
Yarrow [Achillea millefolium)
Bergamot is a favourite herb with bees
Herbs for a butterfly garden
Butterfly nectar plants Herbs for butterfly larvae

Bugle [Ajuga reptans) The butterfly lays its eggs on these plants.
Carnation (dianthus) The eggs become larvae and the larvae,
Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara) depending on the species of butterfly, feed
Heartsease (Viola tricolor) on either the leaves or flowers of the plants.
Honeysuckle (lonicera)
Lavender (lavandula) Cowslip [Primula veris)
Marjoram (origanum) Fennel [Foeniculum vulgare)
Musk mallow [Malva moschata) Foxglove [Digitalis purpurea)
Purple loosestrife [Lythrum salicaria) Horseradish [Armoracia rusticana)
Rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis) Musk mallow [Malva moschata)
St John's wort [Hypericum perforatum) Nettles [Urtica dioica)
Thymes (thymus) Rocket [Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Valerian [Valeriana officinalis) Sweet violet [Viola odorata)
Yarrow [Achillea millefolium) Wild strawberry [Fragaria vesca)
Attracting butterflies
Butterflies are more attracted by scent than
colour, preferring faded colours. They love
marigolds, garden pinks and rocket {Eruca
vesicaria subsp. sativa) but, most of all, they
love buddleia. Butterflies enjoy single herbs
with flat heads of blossom, such as purple
loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), rocket and
catmint (.Nepeta cataria), and they are
attracted to the flowers of old English
lavender. Borage is a favourite food of the
Painted Lady butterfly. Knapweeds
(centaurea) are also good butterfly nectar
plants and food for this species. Orange Tip
butterflies will feed on the cuckoo flower
('Cardamine pratensis). Self heal (.Prunella
vulgaris) is worth growing while vervain
(Verbena officinalis) in flower is another
notable butterfly herb. A basket of herbs
containing mint and chives in flower will
attract both butterflies and bees. Butterflies love to feed on Buddleia davidii
HERBS TO GROW IN THE FLOWER (.Nigella damascena). For background interest,

BORDER plant shrubs and small trees.
The traditional approach to mixed borders,
consisting of herbs and other garden plants, Siting a mixed border
usually means using complementary or The siting of a mixed border is important, as
toning colours, but mixing ‘hot’ and ‘cool’ most perennials and annuals only flourish in
colours in large, natural drifts is becoming full sunlight: they need a sunny site to make
increasingly popular. hard growth. If your site is overshadowed by
A mixed border can be made by planting a trees or buildings, St John’s wort and the
number of hardy perennials that bring a periwinkles (Vinca major and Vinca minor) all
series of gentle changes throughout the thrive in shade. These plants require little
growing season, and which have fragrant attention, with periwinkle bearing bright
foliage or perfumed flowers, with herbs that blue flowers in spring. Take care, though, as
will complement both them and the border. it spreads rapidly and could suffocate
Perennials should be used as much for their neighbouring plants.
foliage as for their flowers. Annuals can be Generally speaking, the majority of plants
used both in drifts, and to fill any gaps. Try will thrive in a light, well-drained soil, into
Californian poppies (Eschscholzia californica), which has been worked a small quantity of
nasturtiums, marigolds and love-in-the-mist organic matter.
Chamomile flourishing at the front of a mixed border

Care must be taken when mixing heights of plants, as otherwise some can be lost in the middle
Arranging the plants well as flower shades. Draw a planting plan

When planting your border, plant in groups on paper, marking in the position of each
of three or five plants of one variety in an plant you choose. If you make a mistake, the
irregular shape for the greatest impact and to plants can easily be moved around.
create marvellous splashes of colour. Plant the Sunflowers, such as the upright Helianthus
taller species at the back, allowing plenty of annuus ‘Lemon Queen’ with its pale yellow,
room for them to spread, and then graduate daisy-like flowers, will add brightness in early
the plant heights so that the smallest ones are autumn. It grows to a height of 1.8m (6ft)
at the front. Remember that your plants and spreads to lm (39in) so it is ideal to
should always be suited to their position in plant at the back of the border. Angelica, bay,
the border and to the type of soil. Never mix rosemary, fennel and lovage make a good
together plants of differing heights or the backdrop for a mixed border. The clump¬
smaller ones will be ‘lost’. forming evergreen achillea, Achillea
Aim to create year-round interest for the filipendulina, with its flat, golden yellow
best effect, with decorative shrubs or trees flower heads from its second year onwards, is
providing the main interest. Try using plants also ideal as it grows to a height of 1.2m
with variegated or evergreen foliage. Consider (4ft), with a 45cm (18in) spread. Be sure to
carefully how to harmonize the colour dead head the plants to encourage a second
combinations - that includes leaf colour as flush of blooms.
Pink lavatera will thrive in a sunny border The colours of marigold and curry plant mix well
Pink lavatera and phlox will thrive in a sunny can be planted next to a path, so that the
border. Try planting blue-flowering catmint perfume is released every time you rub
in front of them. Visually imposing plants, against it. Cotton lavender has silver-grey
such as fennel, tansy and hollyhocks, can be leaves and small cream to yellow flowers in
repeated at varying intervals. Bronze fennel mid- to late summer. It grows to a height of
(.Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’) is an 50cm (20in) and is very decorative. All of
attractive contrast to pinks and purples or these, when integrated together, create
among white and yellow flowers. Near the magnificent foliage combinations.
back of the border you could plant golden Camphor plant (Balsaminta major var.
rod (Solidago virgaurea), which has lanceolate tomentosum) has a lovely camphor scent,
leaves and ruffled, yellow, daisy-like flowers silver leaves and white, daisy-like flowers.
in late summer. The tali perennials which Jerusalem sage (Phlomis fruticosa) is another
bloom mostly in mid-summer make useful ornamental plant for the border, with its
additions to the back or middle of the aromatic, silver leaves and whorls of orange-
border: for example, yarrow, hollyhock (Alcea yellow flowers from early to late summer. It
rosea), purple loosestrife and the tall, bearded reaches a height of 1.5m (5ft) and is good
iris, Iris germanica. planted near the back.
Pale yellows will cool ‘hot’ schemes of reds Mexican orange (Choisya ternata) is an
and oranges and gently contrast with blues evergreen shrub worth considering. It grows
and mauves. Grey foliage plants with to a height of 3m (9ft 9in) and bears clusters
aromatic leaves include lavender, species of of white flowers at any time of the year, but,
artemisia and rue (.Ruta graveolens ‘Jackman’s in the main, from early to late spring. It is
Blue’). Curry plant has silvery, curry-scented very ornamental and its flowers have a sweet,
leaves with yellow flowers from mid-summer vanilla-like perfume. Its leaves also have a
to early autumn. It is a shrubby perennial pleasant, aromatic scent. Musk mallow
that grows to a height of 60cm (24in) and CMalva moschata) is another delightful,
bushy, border perennial that grows to a

height of around 60cm (2ft) and bears spikes
of large, single, pink or white flowers from
mid-summer until early autumn. The mid¬
green leaves, kidney-shaped near the base,
emit a musky aroma when pressed and in
warm weather.
English garden designer Gertrude Jekyll
(1843—1932) created cool blue and grey
borders, although true blues are difficult to
find in herb plants. There are, however, blue-
flowered herbs such as hyssop, flax (Linum
usitatissimum), lavender and borage. There
are many shades of violet and lilac that Feverfew growing in a mixed flower border
harmonize beautifully with the greys and
silvers of rue, artemisia and lavender. be planted. If you intend to grow a wide
When designing a mixed border, foliage range of culinary herbs in the mixed border,
should be teamed together for effect and remember to leave spaces for some annuals.
flowering plants arranged so that Sage is suitable for the middle of the
neighbouring species do not all flower at the border, but keep it regularly trimmed back.
same time. Where space allows, taller, There are several varieties such as tricolour
shrubby herbs such as elder (Sambucus nigra), sage (Salvia officinalis var. tricolor) and purple¬
with its many attractive variegated forms, and leaved sage (Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’).
witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) can also Invasive herbs such as mint and lemon balm
can also be grown, but make sure that they
are contained (see page 34). Try growing
applemint (.Mentha suaveolens), the purple-
tinted black peppermint (.Mentha piperita var.
rubra) and ginger mint (Mentha x gracilis
‘Variegata). Tarragon can also be planted in
this way. You could also cultivate marigolds,
scented-leaf geraniums and nasturtiums. Or
why not try growing some of the more
unusual herbs such as fenugreek (Trigonella
foenum-graecum), chervil, coriander and anise?
Elecampane, clary sage and sweet cicely are
among the finest border plants, and groups
of herbs which include chives, marjoram and
poppies will provide a marvellous splash of
colour. Use the neat, low-growing marjoram
for an attractive edging, or chives which can
An attractive combination of sages be allowed to bloom when used this way.
7 HERB LAWNS AND SEATS,
PATHS AND PAVING
MAKING A CHAMOMILE LAWN ‘Treneague’ is propagated from divisions, and

Chamomile lawns, with their rich, fruity, it roots where the stems touch the soil. It
apple scent, have been popular since medieval does best in a sandy, well-drained soil in an
times and they produce a smooth, green open site. It is best to obtain this variety of
sward, even on the poorest soil in the driest chamomile from a specialist herb nursery.
summer. Unlike grass, however, the surface
isn’t even, weeds can be a problem and Planting a chamomile lawn
occasionally the lawns can look patchy. A chamomile lawn won’t survive wear and
Nevertheless, they are an interesting addition tear as turf does, so do not plant a large area.
to a garden and well worth both the time and Try planting a small patch which can be
the effort that goes into creating them. square, oblong, or even circular.
Chamaemelum nobile ‘Treneague’ is the Chamomile ‘Treaneague’ is planted at
best variety of chamomile to plant for a lawn 1 Ocm (4in) intervals, so it may help to draw
as it doesn’t flower and it produces a low, a plan first, to calculate the number of
compact turf. It also tolerates dry conditions. plantlets needed (see Stage 5, next page).
A large, lush, chamomile lawn has a textured turf that makes an interesting alternative to grass
HERB LAWNS AND SEATS, PATHS AND PAVING
You will need:

Ball of string
Spade
Humus/organic matter [see page 7),
or grit
Fertilizer
Rake
Tray
Chamomile plants
STAGE 1: Mark off the plot with pegs or A chamomile plant, before division
stakes and string pulled taut.
STAGE 2: Dig the area to one spade’s depth, STAGE 7: Plant the chamomile at 10cm (4in)
unless the ground is badly compacted, and intervals, water in well.
then remove all weeds, stones and debris. If
your soil is light, add compost or manure as Maintenance
you go along. Heavy soil will benefit from Keep the plot well watered. Once the plants
the addition of some grit. Level the area with have established themselves and knitted
the back of your spade to ensure that firming together, most weeds will be suppressed.
is even. The lawn can then be walked on but will not
survive heavy traffic, and can be clipped over
STAGE 3: Tread down the soil using your lightly with shears. To stop gaps appearing,
heels, and apply a light dressing of a general cut back the chamomile at regular intervals.
fertilizer. Roll or tread occasionally to keep all the
plants compact.
STAGE 4: Rake the soil level, removing any
remaining stones.
STAGE 5: Remove each chamomile plant

from its container and pull gently at the
rootball, dividing it into two pieces. Divide
the plant again, to make about three or four
smaller plantlets. Each plantlet needs to have
good roots.
Stage 6: Place the plantlets in a tray as you

divide them, and cover with moist compost
to keep them damp. Chamomile 'Treneague' becoming established
THYME AND PENNYROYAL LAWNS established themselves. This takes about three
weeks. When the seedlings have at least two sets
Thyme of leaves, thin to about 7.5cm (3in). Thin at
The hardy, creeping thyme, Thymus intervals as the seedlings develop, until the
serpyllum, makes an excellent herb lawn with required spacing of 23crn (9in) is reached.
its pleasant perfume when crushed, and the Thyme lawns do not need clipping, but
lovely, green, mat effect it produces. Try snip off any dead flower heads and stalks in
Thymus drucei ‘Albus’ with its yellow-green spring as they can help to protect the plants
leaves and white flowers, and T. drucei during winter. Once established, thyme
‘Lanuginosus’ which has pale, downy leaves makes a fragrant carpet, but it will not
but seldom flowers. tolerate heavy traffic. Keep the lawn well-
All creeping varieties - Thymus serpyllum, watered and weed it regularly.
Striking thyme 'Ruby Glow' has a creeping habit Pennyroyal, one of the mints, is a vigorous grower
T. praecox and T. pseudolanuginusus — are Pennyroyal

suitable for lawn cultivation, but they prefer Pennyroyal (.Mentha pulegium), with its
dry, sandy soil. Select thymes either bright green leaves and pungent scent, is a
according to their leaf colour - gold, very satisfactory herb for lawns, as it
variegated, grey, dark or light green - or to produces a thick mat of growth that acts as a
their flower colour - white, mauve, pink or weed suppressant. It spreads very quickly, is
red. Creeping thyme should be planted at extremely hardy, and bears a profusion of
23cm (9in) intervals. small spires of lavender-coloured flowers in
If you choose to use seed, prepare the area spring. To propagate, roots can be divided in
and sow the seed broadcast (see page 43). Water autumn and spring and planted 15-23cm
well and keep moist until the seedlings have (6-9in) apart.
HERB LAWNS AND SEATS, PATHS AND PAVING 113
HERB SEATS placing a simple arch over the seat to make

A herb seat built in a sunny, sheltered spot, an arbour, and plant it with scented climbers
with an attractive vista, is an ideal place to - honeysuckle will cover it in just a few
grow chamomile and creeping thymes - seasons. Scented geraniums, lemon balm and
thyme is quick draining while chamomile various mints can be grown in pots nearby.
holds moisture for longer periods of time.
Think carefully when siting your seat. Constructing a herb seat
Decide when you are most likely to use it
and whether you want to catch the sun early
You will need:
in the day or in the late afternoon.
Bricks or blocks
Sweet-scented herbs can be planted close
Hardcore
to the seat - try lavender, lemon verbena, Cement, sand and gravel, or ready-mixed
clove carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus) and concrete
pineapple sage (Salvia elegans ‘Scarlet Spirit level
Pineapple’). Trowel
A herb seat can accommodate as many Piece of wood with a right-angle
people as you wish; it can be short enough Short wooden stakes or pegs
for just two, or it can run the whole length of Ball of string
a wall or fence. Place a few large, flat stones Spade
on the seat to sit on during inclement Hammer

Stone chisel
weather. The seat should be positioned so
Builders' retaining wall-ties: 1 per corner
that the sitter faces into the herb garden and,
per layer
if possible, should be in a position to catch
the sun. Cover the fence or wall behind with
honeysuckle, jasmine or rambler roses. Try
STAGE 1: Select your site and draw your plan
to scale on paper, marking in the length,
height and width of the seat, and position of
the bricks. An ideal height for a comfortable
seat is 45cm (18in).
STAGE 2: Calculate the number of bricks

required, remembering to allow a 12mm
(Din) space between the bricks for cement.
Also calculate how much hardcore and
cement, sand and gravel you will need for the
concrete. Ready-mixed concrete is available if
preferred.
STAGE 3: Outline the area for your seat with

pegs and string pulled taut, using the right-
A newly constructed herb seat within a herb garden angled piece of wood at the corners.
STAGE 7: Mix the cement and spread a layer

12mm (R>in) thick on top of the concrete to
ensure that the bricks adhere to the base.
STAGE 8: Take the first brick and, using a

trowel, put 12mm (Uin) of cement on the
leading end. Lay it on the bed of cement,
making sure that it’s level by using the spirit
level. The line of bricks should run down the
centre of the concrete/hardcore foundation.
STAGE 4: Using the string as a guideline, dig
a trench to a depth of 23cm (9in) by the STAGE 9: Repeat with the next brick, pressing
width of the spade. it firmly against the cement on the end of the
preceeding brick and so on along the length
of the seat.
STAGE 10: Use the right-angled piece of

wood to make sure that the corner of the seat
is at right angles, and lay the bricks to the
width of the seat.
STAGE 5: Fill the trench with 15cm (6in) of

hardcore and compact it by treading it down,
or tamping it down with the blunt end of a
piece of timber. Then level it off.
STAGE 11: Continue with the other side and

end, until the rectangle is complete.
STAGE 12: Repeat the process for the second

layer, laying at least 12mm (Rain) of the
cement to cover the top of the bottom bricks.
Using the trowel, put a 12mm {Vim) layer of
concrete on the end of the brick and bed it
STAGE 6: Top the hardcore with a 7.5cm on top of the already laid cement. Centre the
(3in) layer of concrete, level it off and allow brick over a join in the bottom layer for
it to set. strength.
STAGE 13: If you are not using standard STAGE 15: Repeat the process to complete the
bricks, you will have to halve a brick to outer shell. If the weather is bad, cover the
complete a row. Use a stone chisel to mark shell until the cement has set.
and weaken the halfway line and then break
it with a firm blow from the hammer. STAGE 16: Once the cement has set, the seat
Alternatively, if you are using standard bricks, is ready for filling (see page 77).
the brick used to turn the corner will both
complete the row and give the brickwork the STAGE 17: Plant Roman chamomile
necessary strength. (■Chamaemelum nobile) at a distance of 15cm
(6in) apart. It has a height of 15cm (6in) and
STAGE 14: For non-standard bricks, use spread of 45cm (18in), and produces side-
builders’ retaining wall-ties at each corner for shoots, so will spread and form a mat-like
strength, embedding them in the freshly laid carpet. Its yellow-centred, white petalled
cement of each layer. (These are not flowers, rather like a daisy, appear from mid¬
necessary for standard bricks as they interlock summer to early autumn. There is also a
at the corners for strength.) double-flowered variety, if preferred.
The herb seat planted with chamomile The herb seat two months later
LAYING PATHS is usually a discreet, natural surface that

The width of a path can be anything from blends well with existing plantings.
60cm (2ft) to 1.5—1.8m (5—6ft). Usually lm A concrete path may sound dull and
(39in) is about right, because it is wide boring, but it is probably the safest as it can
enough for wheelchair access and for two have a slightly rippled surface, not only to
people to walk side by side. A path should give a better grip for walking on, but making
not be less than 60cm (2ft) to be able to walk it ideal for wheelchair tyres. Concrete paths
in comfort. The path should be level and can look rather bland, so make sure that they
non-slippery, and it should link various always lead to some sort of focal point: a
features around the garden. Plan your path sundial, a bird bath or a potted bay, for
carefully to obtain maximum impact. example. The lay of the land should also be
When laying paths and paving, you should taken into account. On a gentle slope, the
consider what materials are available that will path may be laid to follow it, but, if the
complement your plants and other paved ground falls away steeply, it is better to
features in your garden. Paths and paving can construct level sections making a step every
dominate a garden design and the best choice 4.6m (15ft) or so.
A discreet, natural path of stone slabs. It blends well with the surrounding plantings, hedging and
shrubs, and leads to the restful focal point
Laying a concrete path

You will need:
STAGE 1: Mark out the area of the path with Short wooden stakes or pegs
pegs and string pulled taut. Remove loose Ball of string
Hardcore
surface soil and grass.
2 boards: 2m (6ft 6in] long [max] x
7.5cm (3in) wide x 2.5cm [lin] thick
(You may wish to dig down several inches to
Concrete
accommodate the depth of both the hardcore
Roller
and concrete, so that the finished path is level
Spade
with the ground surface.) Mallet
Garden rake
STAGE 2: Spread hardcore 2.5—5cm (1— 2in) Straight-edged length of wood, a little
deep over the area and roll thoroughly to give longer than the width of the path
a solid base. Bucket
Hard brush
STAGE 3: Lay boards on their long edges each

side of the path, using a spirit level, to the STAGE 5: Lay the concrete over the hardcore,
depth of the concrete required - usually working it well into the side boards with a
5-7.5cm (2-3in) - and secure with pegs garden rake, a section at a time. Level off
driven with the mallet into the ground on with the straight-edged length of wood.
the outside of the boards.
STAGE 6: To give the appearance of gravel,
STAGE 4: Either buy ready-mixed concrete or brush the surface with a hard brush about an
mix your own in a ratio of one part cement, hour after laying, then again a little later, so
two parts sand and three parts gravel. Use a that the gravel sits slightly above the surface.
bucket as a measure and add just over half a
bucket of water. Mix on a piece of board Stage 7: Allow the path to set hard before
with a spade, and once it is ready, lay the walking on it. Always cover with waterproof
concrete as soon as possible. sheeting if it rains, or if rain is forecast.
Laying a crazy-paving path

Paths made of crazy paving have an You will need:
informality which looks marvellous with Short wooden stakes or pegs
herbs overflowing the borders. Ball of string
Rake
Pieces of different shaped paving stone
STAGE 1: Mark out the path with pegs and
Wooden rammer
string pulled taut. Remove at least 5cm (2in)
Spirit level
of the topsoil and grass, as well as any loose
soil, stones and weeds.
STAGE 2: Spread a layer of sifted soil over the

area to a depth of 5cm (2in), and then rake
over the whole surface until it is perfectly
level. Use a spirit level.
STAGE 4: When fitting the stones, give them

two or three gentle taps with a wooden
rammer to set them into position. Work
STAGE 3: Using the string and pegs as a systematically along the width and the length
guide, ensure that the outside edges of your of the path.
path are even by laying pieces of paving stone
with at least one fairly straight edge. STAGE 5: Place a little soil under one corner
of any pieces of stone that don’t lie flat. Make
sure that each piece of stone is level with the
adjacent one. Some pieces of stone will be
thinner than others, so pack with soil as
necessary.
Stage 6: Crazy paving paths usually sink a

little after a while, so make your level slightly
higher than the surrounding soil or grass to
allow for this.
Stage 7: Fill any crevices and spaces with

loose compost to allow for the planting of
A crazy-paving path has an organic feel creeping herbs.
Laying a gravel path STAGE 2: Remove at least 15cm (6in) of

topsoil from the path’s area.
You will need:

STAGE 3: Place a 10cm (4in) layer of hardcore
over the prepared area.
Ball of string
Spade
STAGE 4: Add a thin layer of sand on top.
Hardcore
Sand
Gravel STAGE 5: Finish the path with a 5cm (2in)
Roller layer of gravel. Roll the gravel well in order

to compact the stones.
STAGE 1: Try to select a site where only the STAGE 6: You will need to roll the path
minimum amount of soil will have to be occasionally to keep it level and top it up
removed to level it. Then mark out the path with more gravel if it is in constant use.
using the stakes or pegs and lengths of string Remember also that regular weeding will be
pulled taut. necessary.
A gravel path is easy to construct, and will link various features around the garden. It will also give safe
and easy access to your herbs, whatever the weather
LAYING PAVING
You will need:
STAGE 1: Draw your plan to scale showing Paving slabs of your chosen size and
the size of the area and drawing the paving colour
slabs according to the size on the plan. This
Ball of string
will determine how many slabs you will need,
Spade/ fork
but remember to allow for a few breakages.
Hardcore
Rammer
STAGE 2: Mark out the area to be paved with
Sharp sand
pegs and string pulled taut, using your plan
12mm- f/2in]-thick piece of wood
as a guide. Wooden mallet
Sand
STAGE 3: Remove about 15cm (6in) of
topsoil from between the string to clear the
area of grass and weeds. STAGE 5: Remember that any paving next to
house walls should lie below the damp
STAGE 4: Place the hardcore over the area and course, and below any air bricks that may be
compact it to the required level with a present. Also, the paved area should slope
rammer, filling in any empty spaces with slightly away from the building to allow for
sharp sand and compacting it again. adequate drainage.
STAGE 6: Start in one corner and lay a 2.5cm

(lin) layer of sand over the compacted
hardcore, allowing for two paving slabs at a
time.
STAGE 7: Place the paving slabs on the sand

and tap them down with a wooden mallet to
the required level. Allow a 12mm (Din) gap
between them, using the 12mm- (Din)-thick
piece of wood as a measure.
STAGE 8: Continue in this way until the

whole area is covered, using a spirit level to
check the line and the level of the slabs as
they are laid.
STAGE 9: Some of the gaps between the slabs

can be filled with a mixture of sharp sand
and compost in which low-growing herbs or
herb seed can be planted. Other gaps can be
A paved path bordered by low box hedges filled with mortar.
Bricks used for paving can be laid in a variety of regular patterns
Herringbone patterns
You will need:
Herringbone patterns can be used for both
paths and larger paved areas. Between the
Ball of string
herringbone bricks and those laid first to Spade
form a straight edge, there will be a narrow Hardcore
border in which compact herbs can be Concrete
grown. Bricks
Mallet
STAGE 1: Mark out the area to be paved with Spirit level
pegs and string pulled taut.
STAGE 2: Clear the ground and remove about

15cm (6in) of topsoil.
STAGE 3: Level this off and compact a layer

of hardcore into the earth.
Stage 4: Spread a layer of concrete over this

and place the bricks on the smooth surface,
laying them to form a straight line along the
outside edges of the area.
STAGE 5: Lay the bricks in a herringbone

style to form a zig-zag pattern. Use a wooden
mallet to gently tap the bricks level, and The zig-zag pattern of herringbone bricks
check with the spirit level. provides visual interest, especially in a large area
HERBS THAT TOLERATE TREADING CREEPING HERBS

Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) forms a There are various low-growing, mat-forming
close, emerald carpet and when walked on or herbs which are extremely useful in the herb
bruised gives off a strong scent of creme de garden. These plants are quite vigorous,
menthe. The small, wild, lady’s mantle, making their growth by spreading outwards,
Alchemilla mollis, tolerates a certain amount and they not only fill spaces with foliage and
of crushing underfoot, as do the calamints, flowers, but they also add shape and texture.
chamomile and the creeping thymes. You Roman chamomile and the various thymes
could also try planting the fully hardy are ideal plants. Other herbs with a creeping
Thymus vulgaris ‘Silver Posie’. Its lovely scent or compact habit are pennyroyal and the
is released when trodden on, and it has small, calamints. Calaminiha alpina, for example, is
white-margined leaves and pale mauve-pink an aromatic mat former, but should be
flowers appearing in spring and early planted in the widest crevices possible. It
summer. Remember that although these throws up vast numbers of short spikes of
herbs will tolerate a certain amount of fine violet blossom in early or mid-summer,
treading, they should not be constantly and it forms a luscious, evergreen mat. The
walked upon. calamint also known as basil thyme (Acinos
arvensis) with its strong, menthol scent,
grows to 10cm (4in) tall. It can be planted
between paving in dry conditions. It bears
blue and purple flowers which, with the
ieaves, give forth a rich, minty perfume when
they are crushed or after a summer shower.
Creeping thymes
Thymus serpyllum ‘Hartington Silver’
(formerly ‘Highland Cream’) is a hardy
evergreen with bright green leaves edged with
cream, bearing pale pink flowers in early to
mid-summer. This variegated thyme grows to
a height of 5cm (2in) and forms a low, dense
mat. It enjoys full sun and a well-drained soil.
Thymus serpyllum ‘Goldstream’ has thin
strands of narrow, lemon-scented, green-gold,
variegated leaves and grows to a height of
5cm (2in). It thrives in a sunny position and
a well-drained, slightly alkaline soil.
T. serpyllum Ruby Glow’ is an attractive
creeping thyme growing to a height of 10cm
(4in), with aromatic, dark green leaves and
large, dark crimson flowers. Grow it in a
Thymus vulgaris'Silver Posie' has a lovely scent sunny place in a well-drained soil.
Creeping jenny or Moneywort

A prostrate perennial (Lysimachia
nummularia ‘Aurea’) with creeping, rooting
stems bearing bright golden foliage which
turns greenish-yellow or green in dense
shade. It grows to a height of 2.5—5cm
(1—2in) with an indefinite spread. Yellow,
cup-like flowers appear during summer.
Thyme 'Doone Valley' has a citrus scent
Thymus drucei ‘Doone Valley’ grows to a Creeping Jenny spreads extensively

height of 15cm (6in) and spreads to
20—30cm (8—12in). It has citrus-scented,
golden, variegated leaves, and masses of Creeping mints
small, pale purple flowers appear in summer. Applemint or woolly mint (.Mentha
It enjoys a well-drained, sunny position. suaveolens) is a creeping, downy perennial
Thymus serpyllum ‘Minor’ has pink flowers. that grows to a height of 40cm—lm
T. serpyllum coccineus has crimson flowers. (16—39in), with an indefinite spread. It has a
T. serpyllum ‘Snowdrift’ has white flowers. spearmint flavour and a slight apple smell.
77 serpyllum ‘Lemon Curd’ has pink Corsican mint (.Mentha requienii) is a tiny,
flowers. mat-forming perennial with a pungent scent
and small lilac flowers that appear in
Creeping savory summer. It has an indefinite spread and
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigerd) is a hardy, reaches a height of 2—10cm (34—4in).
compact, perennial growing to a height of Creeping pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium
6cm (2Din). Its leaves are strongly aromatic, ‘Cunningham Mint’) with its light green
and it bears small, white flowers from late leaves, oval in shape, grows to a height of
summer to early autumn. It thrives in a 10-15cm (4-6in) and has an indefinite
sunny position and well-drained soil. spread. It enjoys a damp, fertile soil.
MAT-FORMING HERBS BUSHY THYMES AND LAVENDER

Thymus serpyllum ‘Snowdrift’: a mat-forming, Thymus vulgaris ‘Silver Posie’: has variegated,
vigorous thyme that grows to a height of 5cm silver leaves and likes a well-drained soil and
(2 in). It has pale, rounded leaves and bears plenty of sun. It grows to a height and spread
an abundance of white flowers. It likes a of 25 x 45cm (10 x 18in). Abundant mauve-
sunny position and a well-drained, slightly pink flowers appear in summer.
alkaline soil. Thymus fragrantissimus: orange-scented
Thymus azoricus: a neat, mound-forming thyme is an attractive, grey-green leaved plant
pine-scented thyme that grows to a height of with aromatic, orange/balsam scented foliage
10cm (4in) and bears lavender-coloured and pale pink flowers. It has an upright
flowers in early to mid-summer. bushy form and likes full sun and a well-
Thymus x citriodorus ‘Aureus’: golden drained, alkaline soil.
lemon thyme is a hardy, evergreen thyme. Its Thymus x citriodorus-. lemon thyme grows
leaves of gold are highly aromatic and it to a height and spread of 30 x 60cm (12 x
grows to a height of 10-15cm (4-6in) on a 24in). It is an evergreen dwarf shrub, ideal
well-drained soil and in full sun. for scented borders. It can be grown in a
Creeping pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium container and likes a well-drained soil and
‘Cunningham Mint’): a fragrant, prostrate full sun.
herb that grows to a height of 10-15cm Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba: this
(4-6in). It has an indefinite spread and thrives delightful lavender is the smallest of the
in moist soil either in partial shade or sun. dwarf lavenders, growing to a height of 25cm
Corsican mint (Mentha requienii): smells (lOin) in full sun in a well-drained soil. An
strongly of peppermint and is an excellent evergreen perennial, it has narrow, grey leaves
ground cover plant for damp shade. It is the and white flowers.
smallest of the mints and forms a carpet of
tiny, bright green leaves. It bears small,
purple flowers in summer.
Golden lemon thyme is a dwarf evergreen Lavandula angustifolia is an ideal edging for paths
HERB LAWNS AND SEATS, PATHS AND PAVING 12S
PATHS OF CARPETING HERBS

Herbs of prostrate or semi-prostrate habit
will grow into a ‘carpet’ or can be planted
between paving stones. The creeping mints
literally cling to the soil, and the creeping
thymes are at their best growing over stones.
Carpeting herbs should be planted 20cm
(8in) apart and it is good to grow a selection
of varieties. A number of species can be
grown from seed — the thymes, for example -
A path newly planted with a variety of thymes
and they will be very hardy and long-lasting

if the soil is light and well-drained. Bear in
mind, though, that the area will have a very
sparse appearance during the first year, but
Low-growing mints or thymes planted between this will soon disappear as the plants begin to
paving stones or slabs will soften their edges spread to quickly form a thick carpet.
-4
Stepping stones are useful in lawns, or they can be edged with all manner of low-growing herbs
EDGINGS FOR STEPPING STONES level of the lawn to make mowing easier.
Position stepping stones across a lawn, or Replace the stone, making sure that it is level.
place in gravel or soil. If the stones are Remove part of the turf between the
positioned in the lawn, place them over the stepping stones and plant pennyroyal and a
turf, cut round the edges with the tool made variety of thymes in the spaces. If your
for the job, known as a turf moon cutter, stepping stones are placed in gravel, simply
then lift each stepping stone and remove the remove some of the gravel between each of
section of turf beneath it. Remove enough the stones and plant your herbs in the soil
soil to ensure that the stone, when underneath, replacing the gravel when the
repositioned, will be slightly lower than the plants are in place.
PLANTING HERBS BETWEEN compost as necessary. Alternatively, roots can

PAVING SLABS be eased into small gaps with a knife blade.
STAGE 1: Choose the planting crevices with Firm in gently, using your fingers, to remove
care, and if the gaps between the paving slabs any pockets of air.
are mortared, remove the mortar and
underneath soil to a depth of 5cm (2in). STAGE 4: Water carefully, and then water
regularly until the plants are well established.
STAGE 2: If the crevices are not mortared, Do not use powerful jets of water or the
then you will have suitable gaps in which to plants will be washed away.
plant. Clear out any weeds, debris and soil
and fill the crevices with a loam-based As an alternative, seed can be planted in the
compost. crevices in a mixture of light compost and
horticultural sand. Scatter the herb seed, and
STAGE 3: Using a small trowel, plant small, then water until established. Try seeding salad
rooted herbs in the crevices, adding more burnet in this way.
Creeping thymes in flower are quite breathtakingly beautiful and are seen at their best planted between and
cascading over carefully positioned paving slabs
GROWING HERBS ON BANKS become established, their roots will spread

Less hardy, sun-loving herbs can be grown on and make rhe bank more stable. Creeping
a sun-facing bank or slope. A group of gently thymes are ideal herbs to plant, as are
sloping banks can be created down a steep marjoram, calamint, compact savory
garden, or low banks can be made on a level (.Satureja montana ‘Prostrate White’), as well
site. But, whatever kind of site you have, you as spreading herbs such as lady’s bedstraw
can create banks which are generally ideal for (Galium verum) and dwarf comfrey
growing and harvesting herbs: you can even (Symphytum grandiflorum). In shady parts, try
build a bank as part of a raised bed that will woodruff (Galium odoratum), alpine
also act as a windbreak. Banks are excellent strawberry (Fragaria vesca ‘Baron
places for growing herbs if space is limited, Solemacher’/Alexandria’) and periwinkle
but any herbs planted on a slope will have to (vinca). A bank of poor soil that is in a dry,
be of the varieties that will withstand some exposed position can be planted with
drought, such as horehound (.Marrubium prostrate herbs — chamomile, creeping mints
vulgare) and viper’s bugloss (Echium vulgare), and thymes are particularly suited to these
while those at the foot of the slope need to conditions.
be moisture-loving species, such as sweet
cicely (.Myrrhis odorata). HERB ROCKERIES
The soil will be less crumbly if it is planted Try to site a herb rockery in a sunny corner
and weeded after rain or when you have with a backdrop of trees or plants, if possible.
watered it, although once your herbs have It should be built on a slope, although you
can build up a mound on level ground.
A herb rockery will happily accommodate
savory, thyme and marjoram and low-
growing herbs such as caraway thyme
(Thymus herba-barona), chives, lemon thyme
and golden marjoram. Other herbs to try
would be cowslip, rock hyssop, pasque flower
(Pulsatilla vulgaris), rock rose (Helianthemum
nummularium Amy Baring’) and centaury
(Centaurium erythraea).
STAGE 1: Prepare the site by forking over the

soil and removing all weeds and debris.
STAGE 2: To ensure good drainage, lay a

15cm (6in) layer of hardcore and cover with
inverted turves to prevent the finer soil from
impeding drainage. If turves are unavailable,
use polythene sheeting - black refuse sacks
are ideal - punching holes in them to allow
Field poppies are good subjects for a rockery the water to drain away.
STAGE 3: Cover with soil to the designated

height.
STAGE 4: Place a row of rocks at intervals all

around the bottom of the mound, adding
more soil as necessary to ensure stability.
STAGE 5: Start building up the rockery by

adding more soil and randomly positioning
more rocks. Continue to add more soil as
each layer of rock is built up, and make sure
that the sides slope and that the rockery is
built up to a flattish top. Partly bury the
rocks and let them slope towards the centre
of the mound of soil. Leave spaces between
the rocks for herbs. Thyme and creeping jenny will thrive in a rockery
A herb rockery is an ideal growing arrangement, if sited in a sunny spot, it will enable you to grow a fine
and varied collection of the plants in a very small area
8 GROWING HERBS
INDOORS
Herbs are not house plants and accordingly per cent, so many of them will fare better on a
they need to spend their time out of doors. windowsill, although they will grow well under
There are, however, many herbs that you can fluorescent lights at every stage of development.
keep indoors, over a period of time, without If your plants become drawn and spindly, the
any permanent harm coming to them. Most chances are that they are not getting enough
of the herbs that grow successfully in pots light. Sun-loving herbs also need at least six
outside and those which would die down hours of sun each day to flourish. Remember to
after summer has ended, will continue to turn your herbs each day for an even amount of
grow indoors for most of the year. Herbs sunlight on all sides.
grown indoors, however, are not so long-lived Kitchens are not suitable places to keep herbs,
and are more likely to become drawn and as temperatures fluctuate and there are fumes
elongated. Remember that all herbs prefer to from cooking. Domestic gas and oil fumes also
be outside in summer. take their toll. Bathrooms, on the other hand,
When choosing herbs for indoor growing, make good growing rooms, as do conservatories,
be aware that glass can reduce light by 30—50 sunny porches or greenhouses.
A selection of herbs, growing in pots on a well-lit windowsill

GROWING HERBS INDOORS 131
HERBS FOR GROWING INDOORS Rosemary

Rarely grows to over lm (39in) in a
Scented-leaf geraniums container. It flourishes in a bright position,
These are ideal plants for the blind or but needs a cooler temperature of around
partially sighted and will flourish quite 13°C (60°F) if it is to produce flowers. It is
happily indoors. They are quite different an ideal plant for the conservatory.
from other geraniums because the scented-
leaf varieties are normally cultivated for their Sages
perfume, which is released when the leaves Also make excellent conservatory plants. Try
are gently brushed. The flowers, however, are growing pineapple sage (Salvia elegans ‘Scarlet
somewhat insignificant. Scented-leaf Pineapple’), with its long, pointed leaves and
geraniums can grow to quite gigantic bright scarlet flowers, 4cm (114in) in length.
proportions if left untrained, so severe Common sage will also grow well indoors, as
pruning will be necessary. There are many will the coloured leaved varieties: ‘Icterina,
species of these geraniums, with a vast choice with its gold, variegated leaves; ‘Purpurascens’,
of perfumes. Obviously they will not attain with its dark purple leaves; or ‘Tricolor’, with
the same height as they would in the garden, its irregularly slashed, creamy-white foliage.
but they will give great pleasure if they are The plants, which can be kept in any room in
repotted in fresh compost every year and the house, should be clipped back to a
moved to a larger pot when necessary. manageable size and shape.
Scented-leaf geraniums will flourish indoors Sage 'Icterina' has golden, variegated leaves
Pelargonium x citrosum (P crispum hybrid),

P crispum ‘Variegatum’ and ‘Prince Rupert’
geranium all have lemon-scented foliage, the latter
having greyish leaves, 2-2.5cm (44—1 in) wide,
with crisped or curled edges. Peppermint-scented
geranium (P. tomentosum) is a shrubby, sprawling
example with particularly erect stems to lm (39in)
in length. Its peppermint-scented leaves are
triangular and grow to 12.5cm (5in) across. Purple sage will grow well in a conservatory
132 BEGINNERS' GUIDE TO HERB GARDENING
Purple-leaved basil
Ocimum basilicum ‘Purple Ruffles’ or ‘Dark
Opal’ is an annual that will grow indoors,
usually to a height of 45—60cm (18—24in).
Grow in a free-draining compost, and don’t
allow it to become waterlogged.
Bay
Small specimens of sweet bay (Laurus nobilis)
can also be grown in pots and are best
cultivated from cuttings taken in summer or
bought as pot plants. If your bay is small,
other herbs can be planted with it: try thyme,
winter savory or marjoram.
Pot marigolds require a cool position
Pot marigold
A plant to brighten up the dullest corner
with its tiny-petalled, round, orange flower
heads. It is a plant that doesn’t like heat, so
it’s important to find a cool spot for it. Pinch
out the top shoot and, if you want a short,
sturdy plant for container growing, make
sure it gets plenty of sunlight and keep the
soil moist. Marigolds are in flower for most
of the year if dead headed regularly.
Lemon verbena
Aloysia triphylla is a deciduous shrub with
pointed, lemon-scented leaves and sprays of
mauve flowers in summer that will grow to
1.5m (5ft) in a temperate climate. Grow the
herb out of doors in a pot small enough to
take indoors for winter. A conservatory is an
ideal place to keep it, or on the windowsill of
a sun room. Don’t be tempted to place it in a
warm room as it will wilt rapidly and fail to
thrive. Lemon verbena, like bay, prefers
filtered sun and a rich soil. Bay is often grown in a pot, for decoration
fertilizer every seven to ten days. Once the

plants have stopped flowering move them
out of doors. Try the hybrid tea ‘Ena
Harkness’ with its red blooms, or the
floribunda ‘Fleur Cowles’ with its pink,
scented flowers.
Curry plant and eucalyptus

Both of these are also suitable for indoor
cultivation. Try Eucalyptus citriodora, with its
attractive leaves which give off a strong
lemon scent when rubbed.
Jasmine
The fragrant Jasminum polyanthum bears
fragrant, white flowers in early spring and
Myrtle is valuable for its foliage, flowers and fruits can be trained around canes. It can be grown
in a cool conservatory, but it is a vigorous
grower that needs to be kept under control
Myrtle by drastic pruning.
Myrtus communis can be grown indoors
where the height and spread can be confined
to 60-90cm (2-3ft). The plant, which has
aromatic foliage, lovely flowers and, usually,
decorative fruits, is ideal for a cold
conservatory.
Roses
Young scented roses, of standard or bush
varieties, will also flourish indoors in pots.
Prune the bushes in mid-winter by removing
the weak shoots and cutting back the other
stems to just above the fourth strong bud
above the base. When you bring them
indoors increase the temperature slowly from
around 5°C (4l°F) at night, to 8°C (46°F)
by day in mid-winter, to about 13°C (55°F)
at night and 18°C (64°F) by day in late
spring. Make sure that you place them in a
well-lit spot. Keep the compost moist and
spray the foliage to maintain humidity. When
buds start to form, feed them with a liquid Roses grown indoors must have plenty of light
HOW TO PLANT HERBS FOR Sow seed indoors by sprinkling it on a tray of

GROWING INDOORS compost, following the instructions on the
When planting herbs indoors, remember that packet. Usually, the seed should be sown
with central heating the plants will require 6—12mm (14—Din) deep. Use a suitable
plenty of fresh air and adequate watering. growing medium, such as John Innes seed
Herbs with large, soft leaves in active growth mixture, and make sure that it is level and
or in small pots will need frequent watering, slightly firmed. Water lightly and place the
but do not over-water. Root rot fungus will tray in a plastic freezer bag. Inflate the bag by
flourish in waterlogged soil and important air blowing into it and tie the top, keeping the
pockets in the soil can be eliminated. The tray away from direct sunlight. Once the
occasional soak, though, is much appreciated. seedlings germinate - germination time will
All annuals should be started from seed vary according to the herb — remove the bag
and perennials from cuttings. Sow annual and, when they are large enough to handle,
and biennial herb seed in late summer in transplant them into another pot or tray to
7.5cm (3in) pots to start them off. Bring give them more room.
them indoors, moving them on to larger pots If you only need a few specimens of each
as they grow. herb, plant the seed in pots. Sow thickly
because clumps of seedlings are much easier
Growing herbs in seed trays to transplant. Don’t let the seedlings get
You can grow from seed either by buying it burned by strong sunlight, and once true
in packets, or by harvesting your own. leaves appear above the seed leaves, transplant
Annuals and biennials such as dill, borage, clumps of five or six seedlings into small
summer savory and chervil will give quick pots. Place on a windowsill to provide early
results, although others will be slow to raise. pickings.
An easy way of raising herbs from seed is
to buy the special packs of seed and compost
designed to help germination. These packs
are made up of peat pots, each one
containing a suitable growing medium and
one species of herb. Once planted, the pots
are covered with the transparent, plastic dome
provided. This acts like a miniature
greenhouse and the seed soon begins to
germinate. Herb seed is most at risk when it
just begins to germinate, so it is vital that the
soil is kept moist. If the compost dries out the
seed will not germinate and if too much water
is applied to the seedlings before their roots
develop, they will collapse and die. Try using
a mist spray to keep the soil just moist.
Thin out the seedlings when they appear
Basil seedlings can be grown in a seed tray and transfer the peat pot into a plant pot
filled with compost. You can then leave the weeks, after which time any remaining shoots
roots of the herbs to grow through the peat should be cut back. Harvest the third plant
pots into the compost and continue growing for the following month, after which it too
to their full size. should be cut right back, by which time the
Small pieces of the roots of herbs such as first plant will be ready to use again. Thus,
mint, as well as clumps of chives, can be you will have one plant in use, a new one
lifted in late summer and planted up in pots. ready to use, and one recovering. The
Mint can be left outside until after the first number of varieties of herbs you will be able
frost. Herbs such as tarragon and lemon balm to cultivate in this way will depend upon the
should be lifted by mid-autumn, potted up space available.
and left to establish in a shady corner for
about a month. As they need time to Filling a pot
acclimatize before being brought indoors, The health and vigour of the plants depend
leave them outside during the day and bring largely on the rooting medium, and the best
them in at night. compost for pot plants is one that is well
In late summer/early autumn, cut back aerated, holds moisture, contains plenty of
herbs intended for indoors to around 15cm nutrients and is free-draining.
(6in) high and lift enough of the herb to fill
a 10-15cm (4-6in) pot filled with a multi¬ STAGE 1: Place a layer of drainage material
purpose compost. such as crocks at the bottom of the pot.
It is a good idea to plant up three pots of
any herb that you use frequently. The first STAGE 2: Add about 5cm (2in) of
plant should be cut back to around 2.5cm horticultural sand - to stop the compost
(lin) in late summer/early autumn, and the from clogging - and then fill the pot two-
second plant harvested for the next four thirds full with a soil-less compost.
STAGE 3: Make a hole in the middle of the

compost, set the herb into it, settling the
compost around its roots.
STAGE 4: Continue to fill with compost to

2.5cm (lin) below the rim of the pot.
STAGE 5: Water well with a fine spray to

settle in the plant and then stand the pot in a
saucer of gravel. This will allow for the
drainage of excess water and keep the
atmosphere around the plant humid.
STAGE 6: Feed your plant with a liquid

fertilizer at the intervals recommended in the
Mint can be potted up and taken indoors manufacturer’s instructions.
Aftercare THE POT-BOUND PLANT

After planting, water very sparingly and only It is important to recognize when a plant is
when the compost seems to be drying out. pot bound. You will find that it is growing
Plants that are kept too wet are likely to rot. very slowly, even in good light and warmth
Herbs grow best at a minimum temperature with regular watering and feeding and good
of 15°C (60°F) and they don’t like sudden air circulation. Roots may be growing
draughts or changes in temperature, but the through the drainage holes. To make sure,
room should be ventilated when the weather remove the plant from its container. If the
permits. Good light is also important - use roots are thickly matted and twine around
shading to prevent the foliage from burning the pot, then your plant is ready to be
if it is particularly sunny. Be vigilant potted-on.
regarding insect pests such as aphids and
carrot fly. Newly potted herbs will not Potting-on
require feeding for at least a month because Healthy plants soon outgrow their pots and
of the nutrients already present in the new need to be potted-on regularly if they are to
compost. Most herbs flourish better in grow and keep their shape. Make sure that
groups; they are easier to water and they
respond well to the mini-climate that
grouping creates. Mist spray during summer
to maintain good humidity.
Allow the pot to drain. Afterwards water very A herb removed from its pot. Its roots are thickly
sparingly: only when the compost is drying out matted and it is ready to be potted-on
you move gradually up the pot sizes - round

pots are listed by a number which represents
their diameter and their approximate height
- as placing a plant in a pot that is too big
will encourage a weak root system and the
plant will look out of proportion with its pot.
Tap-rooted herbs such as borage, dill, chervil
and parsley do best in deep pots.
STAGE 1: The new pot should allow at least

2.5cm (lin) of extra space around the plant
that is to be potted on. Place drainage
material (such as crocks or gravel) and a layer
of compost in the bottom.
STAGE 2: Make sure the herb you are potting-

on is moist and remove it from its pot by
inverting the pot across your upturned hand
with the plant hanging between your fingers.
To loosen the pot, tap the rim against a hard
surface. Lift the pot off the plant. The bigger pot is part-filled with compost, the
herb centred in it, and the remaining space filled
STAGE 3: Tease out the roots of the herb and
sit it on the compost.
PRUNING
STAGE 4: Fill in the sides of the pot with Herbs grown indoors are pruned in much the
more compost, firming with your fingers. same way as outdoor ones. Scented-leaf
When finished, the rootball should be geraniums, for example, make vigorous
covered with about 1cm {Vim) of compost. annual growth and should be cut back
severely just as growth is about to start,
Stage 5: Water well with a fine spray and otherwise you will be left with untidy,
leave to drain. straggly plants. To encourage bushy growth
and flowers, your herbs will need to be
Potting-on v. repotting ‘stopped’ from time to time. This means that
Potting-on differs from repotting in that the growing tip or shoot should be removed
when you repot, you are keeping the plant in — but only when the plant is actively
the same sized container and just giving it a growing. Left to their own devices some
change of compost. herbs will continue growing until they reach
Repotting is the method used for plants maximum size, which could result in limited
that are not required to grow much bigger, flowering and bare stems appearing at the
and that have been in the same growing base of the plant. Overcrowding such as this
medium for several years. can also encourage disease.
INDOOR HANGING BASKETS

Moss gives the most natural look to the Herbs for indoor hanging baskets
baskets when used as a liner, and using soil¬ Aromatic thymes make excellent basket
less composts like peat and coir means that fillers. Plant your basket with lemon thyme
the hanging baskets are considerably lighter, [Thymus x citriodorus 'GoldstreanT), and the
but that they will need watering more often. useful kitchen thyme, caraway thyme
Plant the taller growing herbs in the top of (Thymus herba-barona).
the basket, with the low-growing and trailing
ones around the sides. Regular harvesting will Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) make a neat
keep the baskets neat. and colourful addition to a hanging
basket. They have tubular, grass-like leaves
to IO-25cm (4-10in) and round heads of
purple flowers from early to mid-summer.
They should never be allowed to dry out
and are greedy feeders.
Basil (ocimum): the purple leaves of Ocimum

basilicum var. aurauascens contrast well with the
different greens of other herbs. There are
many different varieties of basil to try, such as
the lemon-scented 0. basilicum var. citriodorum
with its green leaves and white flowers.
Sages (salvia): plant rooted cuttings of sage

in your basket, trimming them to shape as
they grow. There are many types of sage -
try purple sage [Salvia officinalis
'Purpurascens Group'), for instance, or the
wonderful-smelling pineapple sage [Salvia
elegans 'Scarlet Pineapple').
Chervil [Anthriscus cerefolium) with its lacy

leaves, is suitable for over-wintering in a
hanging basket. Remove its flowering stems
to promote maximum leaf growth.
Nasturtium [Tropaeolum majus) 'Double

Gleam Mixed'and 'Whirlybird Series' range
from scarlet and orange, to yellow and
cream. You could also try'Alaska Mixed'
with its variegated foliage.
Parsley is easily grown in an indoor hanging basket
Mints (mentha): there are many different

varieties of mint. Try growing ginger mint
(Mentha x gracilis 'Variegata') with its bright
green and yellow variegated leaves, spicy
scent and shorter growing habit. Contain
each root in a polythene bag filled with
compost, but don't forget to cut drainage
holes in the bottom of the bag.
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium formerly

Chrysanthemum') grows to a height of 45cm
[18in) and can be over-wintered indoors.
The leaves are yellowy-green, segmented
and aromatic when crushed.
Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor) low-

growing and decorative, and holds its
cucumber-scented leaves throughout the
winter. When the leaves become coarse, cut
back the whole plant.
Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis): a

decorative plant with its splashes of orange
flowers. Sowing seed in late summer will
provide plants which will over-winter and
flower early the following year.
Parsley [Petroselinum crispum): easy to grow

in a variety of ways, from planting it in a
small strawberry pot or a 'crocus' pot, Nasturtium 'Alaska' grows well in a basket indoors
which has pockets set all over the surface,
to growing it in a hanging basket, where it
will grow really well.
Some herb combinations
Summer savory [Satureja hortensis): with its • A combination of basil, summer savory
widely branched stem and long, pointed, and marjoram looks attractive.
dark green leaves, it is a good subject for a • Plant chives, parsley and variegated mints
hanging basket. It has whorls of lilac, white together.
or purple flowers in summer. It is sensitive • Nasturtiums look splendid with the bright
to cold and needs a sunny position. green leaves of parsley.
Herbs for the kitchen

Summer savory (Satureja hortensis): dig out
of the garden in late summer, pot it up
and take indoors. Summer savory grows to
a height of 10-38cm (4-15in), and its leaves
have a sharp, spicy flavour.
Basil (ocimum): needs warmth and bright

light. Sow the seed in late summer and
place on a sunny windowsill. Water
sparingly as the days get shorter. The
seedlings will produce fresh growth for
many months. Bush basil (Ocimum basilicum
var. minimum) grows to about 15cm (6in),
while sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) can grow
to 60cm (24in). An Italian strain, Ocimum
basilicum 'Genovese', can be grown for pesto,
and purple-leaved basil (Ocimum basilicum var.
aurauascens) has a very strong flavour.
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): lift a clump of

chives and split into smaller pieces before
potting up and bringing indoors. Trim back
the foliage to encourage fresh shoots to
develop. When potted, give a good watering
Curled sweet basil has a wonderful flavour to settle them in, but water very sparingly
afterwards. They will grow strongly from
the middle of autumn to mid-spring.
INDOOR HERBS FOR THE KITCHEN
It is worth trying to grow a continuous Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium): grown for its
supply of culinary herbs because fresh herbs bright green, feathery leaves and aniseed
always have a better flavour than dried ones. flavour. When growing indoors, it should be
Some varieties can be potted up in autumn given light shade and humidity. The plant
or seed can be sown in late summer. They will grow to a height of 30-45cm (12-18in).
can be kept in a warm greenhouse or
conservatory, where they will receive more Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana): grown
light. Fennel and tarragon can be over¬ as a half-hardy annual, will reach a height
wintered in pots indoors, and small pieces of of 30cm (12in). A winter supply can be
the roots of established herbs such as mint, provided by potting up established plants
chives and fennel can be lifted in late in sandy soil in late summer.
summer and potted up.
PLANTING AN INDOOR HERB

VEGETABLE RACK
You will need:

A three-tier vegetable rack
Polythene sheeting
Gravel
Compost
Selection of herbs
STAGE 4: Water using a small watering can,
and allow to settle.
STAGE 1: Line each basket at the bottom and

sides with pieces of polythene. Place a layer
of gravel or pebbles over the polythene for
drainage.
STAGE 2: Fill each basket with a good quality

potting compost.
STAGE 3: Position the vegetable rack in a

well-lit, draught-free spot.
STAGE 3: Plant the herbs (see next page), Try to ensure that the rack gets as much
making wells in the compost to sunlight as possible during the day. Feed the
accommodate them. Firm in well, but gently herbs with a liquid fertilizer at the intervals
so that the herbs are not damaged. recommended on the packet.
Maintenance GROWING HERBS ON

Water when necessary, but don’t allow the WINDOWSILLS
baskets to become waterlogged. Feed the Most herbs will grow well on a sunny
herbs every two weeks with a liquid feed. windowsill at a temperature of between
Spray them occasionally to ensure a good 13— 18°C (55—65°F). They will, however,
level of humidity. Trim and harvest regularly have a milder fragrance than when grown
to keep the plants under control and in good, outside. You can buy them ready potted and
neat shape. repot them if necessary and then leave them
outside for a couple of weeks before bringing
them indoors. They can then be placed on a
Planting suggestions for herb racks windowsill, either in a saucer of gravel or on
a plastic lined tray. Remember to water them
Top tier once the top of the soil is dry and to feed
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) them every 10 to 14 days. You can plant up a
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) selection of herbs together in a light, plastic
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus‘Alaska') trough, provided that they grow at roughly
Pot marjoram (Origanum onites) the same rate.
Sage (salvia)
Spearmint (Mentha spicata) Kitchen windowsills
Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) Herbs such as parsley, mint and chives are
Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) the toughest herbs, and the only ones that
will tolerate the temperature fluctuations,
Middle tier chilling draughts and temporary increase in
Basil minette (Ocimum basilicum 'Minette') humidity that can be found on a kitchen
Bay (Laurus nobilis) (small rooted cutting) windowsill. Mint will flourish if planted in a
Borage (Borago officinalis]
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia]
Feverfew [Tanacetum parthenium formerly
Chrysanthemum]
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis]

Winter savory (Satureja montana]
Bottom tier
Bush basil (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum]
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum]
Curry plant (Helichrysum italicum syn.
H. angustifolium]
Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum]

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum]
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris]
Tricolour sage (Salvia officinalis var. tricolor] Lemon balm, pot marjoram and lemon verbena on
a windowsill
separate, large container, and allowed to

stand in a saucer or drip tray of water. Fill the
bottom third of the pot with crocks or gravel.
This ensures that any surplus water is held in
this open layer, so that the soil does not
become waterlogged and remains aerated.
Chives need less sun but, when grown in a
pot, they are prone to greenfly invasion. If
this happens, douse the plant well with soapy
water, which should solve the problem.
Other windowsills
Thyme, marjoram, sage and basil will all
flourish on a windowsill with a more stable
environment. Fierbs prefer a windowsill that
is draught-free and brightly lit, sunny and
with a temperature of around 10—16°C
(50—60°F). A south- or south-west-facing
windowsill is best during winter. Annuals
such as basil, summer savory and sweet
marjoram will last longer under such
conditions; mint, sage, chives, thyme, parsley
and fennel will flourish; and even cuttings of
rosemary planted up will thrive. The compost
should be kept moist, initially, but it should
remain almost dry during late autumn and
winter when growth slows down and light
levels become less. Thyme and sage should be
placed nearest to the window to protect
shade-loving herbs such as mint, chervil and Sweet basil is an ideal candidate for a windowsill
variegated lemon balm from the sun.
Rosemary, sage and bay will all do well in
larger pots, while chives, chervil, thyme and Maintenance
savory are ideal for smaller containers. Pots of herbs grown on indoor windowsills
Thyme, sage, marjoram, scented-leaf are more vulnerable than plants in the open
geraniums and dwarf lavenders such as ground and therefore need more care. Make
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba enjoy sure all containers are adequately drained.
direct sun. Dill, savory and chives like full Indoor herbs need a drip tray or saucer where
sun, but they prefer a lower temperature. excess water can collect. Spray the plants to
Other herbs which prefer a bright situation keep them moist. If air, light, water and
and a cooler temperature - 15°C (60°F) - are nutrients are supplied in adequate amounts,
rosemary, salad burnet, coriander and parsley. the herbs will flourish.
9 HARVESTING AND
PRESERVING HERBS
While herbs have great ornamental value,

they are really intended for use. All but the
evergreens, however, can only be freshly
picked for a limited period of the year — late
spring to early autumn usually - so they need
to be preserved if they are to be used all year
round. The best time to harvest varies from
plant to plant. Careless harvesting and storing
will spoil all the hard work put into growing
the plants, so make sure you know which
parts to pick: usually the leaves and stems, but
sometimes the seeds, flowers or roots.
Herbs can be harvested when they are well
established, with enough growth not to be
adversely affected. Usually the tips of the
stems are harvested to encourage the plant to
make more growth. The aim is to preserve all
of the herb’s volatile oil, which gives it its
flavour, and as much natural colour as
possible. The essential oils, which are
concentrated in the leaves, are not as strong
during winter, so don’t over-pick outside the
growing season because the herb will not be
renewing itself.
SELECTING HERBS FOR

HARVESTING
Evergreen herbs, such as sage, thyme,
rosemary and winter savory can be picked
throughout the year (although winter savory
should be given the chance to harden off
before winter comes), and the fresh leaves of
all herbs can be picked for immediate use
Herbs hanging to dry on a kitchen dresser throughout the growing season.
HARVESTING AND PRESERVING HERBS 145
Harvest only one species of herb at a time. Remember that most countries have
Plants growing under optimum conditions protected species, so check that you are
can be harvested in mid-summer and again within the law before picking.
in autumn. The shrubby sages, the thymes
and tarragon will usually bear two crops. WHEN, WHAT AND HOW OF
Much depends upon the weather, and herbs HARVESTING
will always be at their best following a dry Always harvest on a dry day. If herbs are cut
summer. Whatever the climate, however, when wet, not only are they difficult to
there will be a time when each herb will have handle, but mildew may set in before they
reached full maturity and begin to die back. can be preserved and the crop will be lost.
Obviously, the plant must be harvested Pick when the plants are at their most
before this happens. potent: in the morning when they are just
If gathering herbs from the wild, make open and after the dew has dried, but before
sure that your plant identification is correct the heat of the sun. Never harvest more herbs
as some herbs are poisonous. If you are not than you can deal with quickly. If you cannot
absolutely certain, leave well alone. You also begin the preserving process straight away,
need to be sure that the herbs you collect are strip off the lower leaves and place the stems
not contaminated in any way by pollutants in a jug of cold water in a cool, dark place.
such as pesticides or herbicides or, if near a Herbs that are left lying around quickly lose
road, by lead from the atmosphere. their flavour.
A trug containing freshly harvested herbs, where they will not sweat, or get crushed or bruised
A variety of air-dried herbs, ready to be stored in air-tight containers
Harvesting leaves and stems gently and then shake them to remove as
Use a sharp knife to cut the stems of small¬ much moisture as possible. Work quickly so
leaved herbs; larger leaves can be picked by that the scents and flavours are preserved.
hand. Try to handle as little as possible to Upright thymes can be bunched together,
avoid bruising, and remove any browned or held with one hand, and then cut with a sharp
damaged leaves. Harvest the leaves just before knife about 7.5cm (3in) from the base. Cut
the plant comes into flower, otherwise the angelica stems in early summer for candying.
flavour of the leaves will not be as good. Cut
flowers for preservation just as they become Harvesting flowers
fully open. Cut flowers for preservation just as they
Cut back perennial herbs by about one- become fully open. Cut lavender when in full
third and annuals to the bottom leaves. Don’t bloom, and also lady’s mantle (Alcbemilla
cut all the plant’s growth if you want fresh mollis), otherwise the flowers could fall apart
leaves later in the season. Herbs tend to heat when fully dry. This plant peaks in early
up quickly, so don’t place them in a bag or summer. Flowers do not improve in colour
they will begin to sweat and get crushed and once they are picked, and they must be
bruised. Lay them on a trug or wooden tray. picked at the correct time if they are not to
If the leaves are muddy or dusty wash them shrivel or drop.
Harvesting seeds
Caraway, coriander, dill, fennel and lovage
should be harvested for their seed. Seed
should be gathered when the seed heads turn
brown. Tap the seed heads on a daily basis,
and, if the seeds begin to fall, the herb is
ready to be gathered. Don’t allow the seeds to
fall and scatter, and don’t leave them in the
wet or they will become mouldy.
Harvesting roots and bulbs

Harvest roots in autumn when the tops of
the plants are beginning to wither and die
down. Scrub the roots as soon as they are
lifted, remove fibrous parts, and cut into
small pieces before drying.
Coriander seeds harvested, ready for air drying
DRYING HERBS
The aim of drying herbs is to change them as
little as possible while removing the water Always dry herbs in the dark. If they are
content. Herbs are about 70 per cent water, dried in the light, natural or otherwise, they
and the secret is to remove that water as will lose both quality and colour as the
quickly as possible without losing any of the volatile oils evaporate in the heat. They also
volatile oils. Leaves are going to lose about 75 need a good circulation of air around them
per cent of the water in them; roots a little and good ventilation to carry away the
less. By drying herbs, you are, in effect, humidity that drying plants create. Although
dehydrating them to a point at which mould the temperature at which to dry varies
and bacteria can no longer develop. according to the requirements of individual
A lot of herbs will keep their flavour when herbs, it should remain constant. A
dried; some flavours will even improve, by temperature of between 24—26°C (75-80°F)
becoming more concentrated than that of is reasonable, but it should be a little higher
fresh herbs. Avoid washing the leaves, unless for the first 24 hours if possible.
absolutely necessary, keep them out of the Herbs are dry when they are brittle enough
sunlight, and dry them in the shortest time to snap and crackle when pressed. Fully dried
possible. Treat flowers in exactly the same leaves will part from the stems and they will
way. If flowers are dried correctly, they will crumble, not fall into dust. They will also
keep their colour, the leaves and stems will have a lovely aromatic smell, and will keep
remain green, and there will be no problem for about nine months to a year, although
with mildew. Some of the best flowers to dry lovage, mint and marjoram will keep for
for later use are borage, chamomile, elder, longer. Bear in mind, though, that if they are
honeysuckle, marigold petals, meadowsweet, kept too long, they will lose their flavour,
rose petals and violets. colour and scent.
Air drying such as mint, rosemary, sage, bay, savory and

Air drying is the traditional way of preserving thyme can be dried in this way.
herbs. It relies on air to dry out the moisture Excluding humidity is also very important,
in the plants. so don’t use anywhere that is likely to become
damp: steamy kitchens and bathrooms, for
Stems and leaves example. On a warm, dry day, herbs can be
Remove damaged leaves and woody stems left outside suspended from a clothes airer,
from the cut herbs and tie the stems with away from direct sunlight.
twine in small bundles - about 10-12 stems Alternatively, trays can be made from
to a bunch. Tie them loosely with a slip knot pieces of muslin stretched over wooden
so that the knot can be tightened as the frames and then placed on supports to allow
stems shrink. Don’t pack the leaves too air to circulate underneath. Herbs can also be
tightly and don’t mix the different species. spread on trays with perforations that will
Strip off any lower leaves that could get allow the air to circulate, or on slatted
caught up in the twine. shelves. Turn them for several weeks until
Rig up a line of string or twine in a warm, quite dry. You could also use shallow boxes
dry, airy place away from direct sunlight. lined with paper, again turning frequently.
Hang the herbs upside down so that air can Herbs can also be dried in an airy, well-
circulate around them, using a clothes peg or ventilated garden shed, an attic or even a
paperclip to secure them to the line. Herbs cupboard under the stairs. If you use a
A line of herbs being air dried in a warm, dry garden shed, away from direct sunlight
cupboard, leave the door open slightly to allow

dampness to escape as the herbs are drying.
The drying period of each herb will vary.
Seven to ten days is a good average, but this
will depend upon the thickness of the leaves.
Never allow herbs to dry until the leaves
collapse on contact.
Low-growing herbs such as summer savory,
woodruff and centaury should be dried whole
with their stems. Strip the leaves from their
stems on large herbs such as sweet cicely and
lovage before drying, and dry the thick,
fleshy leaves of herbs such as comfrey, sage
and coltsfoot individually.
Flowers and petals

Hang flowers and petals in small amounts in
netting bags — the ones that you get from
supermarkets in which vegetables and fruit
are sold. They come in different mesh sizes. Chamomile flowers can be air dried in a net bag
Never fill the bags completely, and give each
bag a shake occasionally. Alternatively,
arrange flower heads still on their stems at cut lavender in bundles on a table because
varying heights so that the air can circulate the moist heat that is generated will spoil the
more easily around them. perfume. When air drying lavender, place a
Alternatively you can place petals and dust sheet underneath the bunches to catch
small flowers between sheets of newspaper to any falling flowers.
dry, or spread them out on muslin-covered
frames (see page 148). Seed heads
The length of time it takes for a flower to Cut the stems of seed heads of herbs such as
dry will depend upon its moisture content fennel, dill, coriander, cumin and caraway, tie
and the moisture in the atmosphere. When in bunches and hang upside down with the
the flower stem is dry and rigid, the flower is seed heads suspended in paper bags. When
ready for storage. Flower petals will feel dry dry, the seeds will ‘crack’ when touched, and
and papery’. should crumble between the finger nails.

Suitable flowers for air drying include Remove them from the paper bags and store.
fennel, yarrow, dill, chives, feverfew,

cornflowers, chamomile, lady’s mantle, Roots
rosebuds, lavender and marigolds. Spread sliced or cut pieces of root on drying
When cutting lavender, lay the stems in a trays and leave in a warm, dark place, such as
flat basket with all the flower heads together. an airing cupboard, until they become hard
This will make bunching easier. Never leave and brittle.

The leaves of tough-stemmed herbs such as

bay should be removed before they are placed
in the oven. These can be individually
positioned on the racks to dry. Large sage
leaves can also be dried individually, while
the smaller ones can be bunched. The leaves
of rosemary and thyme can be dried in
bunches. Roots of herbs such as horseradish
(Armoracia rusticana), angelica (.Angelica
archangelica) and marsh mallow (Althaea
officinalis) can also be dried in an oven.
Microwave drying
Microwave drying speeds up the process of
drying without affecting the flavour of the
herbs, and is successful because of the short
processing time involved. It is, however,
difficult to dry large quantities of plant
material in this way, as only limited amounts
can be dried at one time.
Place small bunches of herbs or individual
Bunches of lavender tied, labelled and ready to dry fleshy leaves on kitchen paper in a single
layer in the microwave, making sure that no
two pieces are touching, and process on a low
Oven drying power for about 2—3 minutes. The timing
Herbs can be dried in the oven, but be will depend upon the moisture content and
careful to do this gently, as too much heat the thickness of the leaves, so drying can
will dry out the essential oils, thus removing take longer.
the scent or flavour. Leaves of herbs such as rosemary, sage and
Bunch and tie the herbs and then string lavender microwave well, as do the flower
them from the oven racks or spread them out clusters of chamomile, lady’s mantle, tansy,
on foil on the racks themselves. Set the oven yarrow and marjoram. When using the
at the lowest setting of 110°C/225°F/gas microwave, check your plant material every
mark !4. Leave the door open. Turn them 30 or 40 seconds once it is almost ready.
frequently to allow moisture to escape. Remove leaves and flowers as soon as they are
Depending on the herb and the season, crisp and papery. Don’t leave them for even a
drying can take several hours. few seconds too long or they will become too
You should never place plant material in a brittle. Remember that microwaves vary in
gas oven that is lit because the volatile oils in power, so it will be necessary to experiment
the herbs can cause a fire hazard. A gas oven with drying times. When drying aromatic
should always be turned off before plant herbs, keep a close eye on them because the
material is placed in it, with the door left ajar. volatile oils could vaporize and catch fire.
Microwaving sage leaves

STAGE 1: Select about 10—12 leaves of Ten golden rules for harvesting
uniform size. and drying
1 Always harvest herbs in the morning once
the dew has dried and before the heat of
the sun has had chance to evaporate the
volatile oils.
2 Never pick herbs on a wet day or after

rain when they will still be damp.
3 Only harvest herbs that are established,

in prime condition, and that are at their
most potent. Never over-pick.
STAGE 2: Place the leaves on a piece of
kitchen paper, trimming it to size if 4 Use a sharp knife to avoid the possibility
necessary, and making sure that the leaves of bruising, and avoid handling as much
don’t touch. as possible.
STAGE 3: Microwave on 450W for 4 minutes 5 Only harvest the amount of herbs you
30 seconds - this timing will depend on the are able to deal with quickly. Any that
size of the leaves — turning the leaves half¬ can't be dealt with immediately should
way through the process. be placed in water in a cool, shady spot.
STAGE 4: Keep a close eye on the leaves, 6 Never place cut herbs in a plastic bag.
stopping the microwave from time to time to They will sweat and get bruised.
check them.
7 Separate herbs into small bunches. Keep
each species and variety separate to
avoid cross-flavouring. Label and date
each batch.
8 Never select herbs that have damaged

leaves or flowers or that are suffering
from any disease or pest infestation.
9 Dry all herbs in the shortest time

STAGE 5: When ready, remove the leaves from possible, with a moderate heat, good air
the oven and test for dryness and crispness. circulation and adequate ventilation.
STAGE 6: Store the dried leaves in an airtight 10 Dry all plant material in a dark place.
container until ready to use.
Storing dried herbs DECORATIVE USES FOR HERBS

Once dried, all herbs should be stored as Herbs can be kept supple by preserving them
quickly as possible so that they don’t in a solution of glycerine. This changes the
re-absorb any moisture from the atmosphere. colour of the foliage, gives it added sheen and
If this happens, they will deteriorate and ensures that it lasts indefinitely. The stems in
become musty. Strip the leaves from the the solution take up the mixture and carry it
stems and store whole, crumbling just before to all parts of the plant: you can actually see
use. Place them in air-tight containers in a the glycerine working its way up the leaf
cool, dark place. Dark glass jars with a screw veins and spreading over the whole leaf. The
top are preferable to plastic ones which will water gradually evaporates and the plant cells
make the dried material sweat. If you notice retain the glycerine. Different varieties of
moisture on the inside of the containers, the leaves turn different colours: the pattern of
herbs are not completely dry. Take them out, the fleshy leaves of clary and nasturtium, for
lay them out on paper, and allow them example, becoming more pronounced, while
further drying time. those of bay and rosemary become slightly
Sage, rosemary and thyme can be left on darker and retain their perfume.
their stalks. Bay leaves should be left whole,
and all seeds and flowers placed in air-tight
You will need:
containers. Check regularly for any mould
Bottle of glycerine
and throw the herbs away if any is found.
Water: hot, but not boiling
Always label and date any containers you use
Bottle for mixing the solution
so that you know their age exactly.
Large jar or vase
Cotton woo!
Dry containers: vases, jars
Hammer
Herbs
STAGE 1: Prepare the herbs by stripping off
any low-growing leaves and crushing the ends

Air-dried marigolds, ready for storage. The petals of any woody stems, such as those of sage
are removed and stored in an air-tight jar and bay, with a hammer.
STAGE 2: Mix one part glycerine with two STAGE 5: Remove the stems from the solution
parts very hot water in a bottle. Screw on the as soon as the leaves have changed colour and
top and shake thoroughly. Pour the solution stopped taking in liquid. The material should
into a container, such as a large jar or vase, to now be soft, supple and shiny.
a depth of about 5cm (2in).
STAGE 6: Wash and dry the stems and store
upright in dry containers. The glycerine
solution should not be discarded as it can be
used again. Store it in a covered bottle and
reheat before use.
NB: Herbs preserved in this way are used

solely in decorative arrangements. They
should never be eaten or used in cooking.
STAGE 3: Completely submerge the stem ends

of the herbs in the glycerine and water and
leave the container in a dry place away from
strong light for at least three days. The length
of time the process takes will vary from herb
to herb and larger pieces, such as branches of
bay or rosemary, may take longer. Don’t use
branches that are too tall and be sure to
remove any damaged leaves.
Soft, supple herbs, after soaking in glycerine
STORING IN THE REFRIGERATOR

First wash the herbs and dry them gently on
STAGE 4: Dip a piece of cotton wool into the kitchen paper, handling them carefully so
glycerine solution and coat any thick leaves that they don’t bruise. Place them in a plastic
with it. This will prevent the leaves from bag and store them in the refrigerator, but
curling and the process can be repeated at not near the freezer compartment. They will
regular intervals. Replenish the glycerine also keep for several days if placed in a
solution if necessary. covered container.

FREEZING Freezing herbs in ice cubes

Freezing is an ideal method of preserving Herbs can also be frozen as ice cubes.
herbs with a delicate flavour and foliage and
which do not dry successfully: chervil, salad
burnet and sweet cicely, for example. Once
harvested, freeze the herbs as quickly as
possible in small batches. Herb sprigs can be
frozen in small, plastic freezer bags or placed
in small plastic containers - this way they
tend to be less mushy when defrosted. Make
sure that the containers are airtight to
prevent other frozen foods from becoming
tainted by the herbs’ aroma. Label and date
all containers. Single mint leaves, borage flowers and
marigold petals all freeze well in ice cubes, as
do chopped parsley and chives.
STAGE 1: Chop the leaves and place them in

Preparing sprigs of parsley for freezing ice trays. Fill the trays with water and freeze.
Freezing is a popular method of preserving

culinary herbs. Frozen herbs don’t have such
a long storage life as air-dried plants, but they
can be kept for about six months. . Parsley,
savory, mint, marjoram, sorrel, chives and
fennel all freeze well. Once herbs have been
frozen, they tend to lose their texture, so you
can’t use them as a garnish. For long-term
storage, blanch the herbs by dipping them
first in boiling water and then in cold water,
before placing them in freezer bags. Stage 2: Store in plastic bags when frozen.
PRESERVING IN OIL AND VINEGAR the flowers’ natural oils. Give them a good
In medieval times, herbs and flowers were shake each day.
preserved in oil or vinegar and this method is Scented flowers go well with oils such as
still used today. sunflower or safflower, while aromatic herb
flowers complement a richer oil: hazelnut or
Flowers olive, for example. It is best to use your flower
Use a good white wine vinegar for flowers oils within three months; although they will
such as lavender, mint, basil, thyme and last longer - up to six months - if the flowers
rosemary, and a cider vinegar for darker are removed. Try lavender, jasmine and rose
flowers such as sweet violets and red roses. petals in a light oil, and flowering herbs such
Remove all stalks, green parts and white heels as mint, marjoram, thyme, dill and fennel in
of the petals before using and steep the an olive or hazelnut oil.
scented flowers in the vinegar, or oil, for
three to four weeks. Leave the bottles to Leaves
stand on a sunny windowsill, turning them at The leaves of tarragon, basil, dill, fennel,
regular intervals to allow the sun to release mint, summer savory and salad burnet make
Basil can be preserved in good-quality olive oil Herb oils should be stored away from sunlight
CANDYING HERB FLOWERS

Some herb flowers can be candied to preserve
them. Try violets, lavender, rosemary, sage,
mint and bergamot. Lemon balm leaves can
also be candied. Remember to check that the
flowers you use are edible, as many of them
are not.
You will need:

Violets, gathered on a sunny morning
after the dew has dried
1 egg white
Caster sugar
Whisk
Tweezers [optional]
Wire rack or baking tray
Bottles of herb oils and vinegars Greaseproof paper
excellent vinegars. Wash and dry the leaves, STAGE 1: Whisk the egg white in a bowl until
pack them into a wide-necked jar and pour frothy.
in the vinegar. White wine vinegar is best for
basil, tarragon and salad burnet and cider STAGE 2: Dip the violets in the egg white,
vinegar for mint. Screw the lid on tightly and one by one, so that each bloom is well
stand the jar on the windowsill for ten days, coated. Use tweezers to hold them if you
shaking it every day. If, after ten days, the wish. Shake off any surplus egg white.
taste isn’t strong enough, take out the leaves,
strain the vinegar and add new leaves. Repeat STAGE 3: Dip the damp violets individually
the process until you are satisfied with the in the caster sugar.
strength of the flavour, then strain the
vinegar into bottles and add a sprig of the STAGE 4: Place on a wire rack or baking tray
herb before sealing. Label and date. lined with greasproof paper, positioning them
Herb oils can be made from the leaves of so that they do not touch each other.
basil, tarragon, thyme, fennel and rosemary.
Crush the leaves, place in a wide-necked jar STAGE 5: Place in an open oven with the
and pour over the oil. Leave the jar in the temperature on the lowest setting, and dry
sunlight for two to three weeks, shaking slowly.
every day. Then, strain off the leaves and
repeat the process until you have the strength STAGE 6: When they are completely dry and
of flavour you require. Strain the oil into brittle, remove from the oven and store
bottles, add a sprig of the herb, and seal between sheets of greaseproof paper in an
tightly. Label and date. airtight container.
HERB FLOWER SUGARS

Herb flowers can be made into flower sugars More ideas for preserving
by pounding the flowers with three times • Herbs can be preserved in salt, an
their own weight of caster sugar and storing old-fashioned method of storage
in glass jars away from direct light. Suitable where layers of herbs — the leaves of
flowers for this method are violets, lavender, basil, for example — are alternated
jasmine, rosemary and rose petals. with layers of coarse salt in a wide¬
necked jar. Olive oil is then poured
CANDIED ANGELICA over and the jar tightly sealed. It
Pencil-thin stems of angelica harvested in can be kept in the refrigerator for
early summer can be preserved in sugar. Cut several weeks.
the stems into 7.5-1 Ocm (3-4in) lengths, • Keep dried bay leaves on a long
boil in a little water until tender, drain and stalk and store in a tall, glass jar in
peel off the outer skin. Simmer again until a dark corner of the kitchen.
bright green. Dry the stems on kitchen paper • Herb leaves and flowers can be
and weigh them. Place in a shallow dish, and preserved by pressing in flower
add an equal weight of sugar, sprinkled over presses. Use them to make pictures,
the stems. Leave for two days. Boil the greetings cards and book marks.
mixture, making more syrup if necessary, for • Place dried parsley, thyme and a
ten minutes. Drain, then spread the stems on bay leaf in muslin as a bouquet
a rack to dry thoroughly. garni. Store in an airtight jar and
use for marinades and in stews,
casseroles and soups.
Soak nasturtium seeds overnight in
salt water. Then pickle in vinegar,
and eat them as you would capers.
Store candied angelica in an airtight jar Bouquet garni of fresh herbs, and dried in muslin
GLOSSARY OF GARDENING TERMS
ACID A term applied to soil with a pH BROADCAST The scattering of seed evenly
content of less than 7.0. The soil is deficient over an area of ground rather than sowing in
in lime and contains few basic minerals. drills.
ALKALINE Usually indicates a soil derived Bulb An underground stem consisting of
from chalk or limestone with a pH reading of fleshy scales that store food for the embryo
more than 7.0. Most herbs will thrive in plant.
alkaline soil. CEMENT A mixture of sand, cement and
ANNUAL A plant that is grown from seed water.
and that germinates, flowers, seeds and dies CLOCHE A portable, tunnel-shaped structure
all within one growing season. made of glass or clear plastic, and used to
BIENNIAL A plant which completes its life protect the early growth of crops in open
cycle in two years. It produces stems and ground.
leaves during the first year and flowers in the COLD frame A glazed structure, usually
second, after which it sets seed and dies. made from bricks, with a movable cover of
Bract A small modified leaf, often glass or clear plastic. Unheated, it is used to
protective, at the base of a flower. protect plants during winter.
Compost
1 A growing medium comprising mainly of
peat, loam, sand, leaf mould, or other
ingredients, in which seeds are sown and
plants are potted.
2 Recycled, decomposed plant material and
other organic matter used as a soil improver
and as a mulch.
CONCRETE A mixture of cement, sand,
gravel and water.
Crocks Broken pieces of clay pots, placed
in the bottom of a container to provide
drainage and air circulation to the root
system of the plants.
CROWN The basal part of a herbaceous
perennial, situated at or just below the
Caraway is a biennial herb that dies back in its surface of the soil from which the roots and
first winter shoots grow.
CULTIVAR A variety of plant that has been

cultivated, rather than one that grows
naturally in the wild.
CUTTING A piece of stem, root, shoot, bud
or leaf that is cut off the parent plant to be
used as a method for increasing numbers of
that plant.
Dead HEAD To remove spent flower or
flowerheads, usually to encourage further
growth or more flowering and to prevent
self-seeding.
DECIDUOUS Plants, especially trees and
shrubs, that lose their leaves at the end of the
growing season. These are then renewed at
the start of the next growing season.
DIVISION A method of increasing plants by
which the roots are divided into two or more
parts during dormancy.
DORMANCY Term applied to the resting
period of a seed or plant when there is a Hyssop is a perennial evergreen shrub
temporary slowing or cessation of growth.
Usually occurs in winter.
DOUBLE DIGGING When the soil is dug to HALF-HARDY Half-hardy plants may not
two spades’ depth. survive severe frosts, but the term generally
DRILL A straight furrow made in the soil for applies to plants that will successfully over¬
sowing seed in a line. winter outdoors in a sheltered position.
EVERGREEN Plants, mostly shrubs and trees, HARDENED off The technique for
that keep most of their leaves all year round, acclimatizing young plants to outside
although some of the older leaves are temperatures. Plants should be placed outside
regularly lost throughout the year. They during the day for increasing lengths of time
provide structure in the garden during the and then put back under cover at night. This
winter. process can take two or three weeks.
FIBROUS Thin, fibre-like mass of roots, often HARDY Plants able to survive the winter
branching and dense. outdoors, including frosty conditions,
GERMINATION The changes that take place without protection.
as a seed starts to grow and the root and HARDCORE Pieces of broken terracotta pots
shoot emerge. or gravel placed in the bottom of containers
GROUND COVER Low-growing plants that to help drainage. Also gravel packed under
cover the ground quickly and suppress the paving or concrete to give it a firm base.
growth of weeds. HERBACEOUS Usually refers to plants with
HABIT The characteristic shape and general non-woody stems that die down at the end of
appearance of a plant. each growing season.
MULCH A layer of material applied to the

soil surface to conserve moisture, protect
plant roots from frost, improve soil structure
and suppress weeds.
NODE The point on a stem from which
leaves, shoots, branches or flowers arise.
NUTRIENTS Minerals used to develop
proteins and other compounds necessary to
the growth and well-being of a plant.
OVATE Egg shaped, broader at the base, and
more pointed at the tip. Applies to leaves.
PEAT Partly decayed organic matter, usually
Tansy has a strong, invasive root system acid, with an excellent water-retaining
structure. Used in growing composts or
mulches, although peat substitutes, such as
HUMUS Crumbly, dark brown, decayed coconut fibre, are now often used for
vegetable matter brought about by the environmental reasons.
partial breakdown of plant remains by PERENNIAL Any plant that lives for at least
bacteria. An example is well-made garden three seasons. It flowers every year, dying
compost. down in winter, with new shoots appearing
HYBRID A plant created from parents of each spring. Usually the term applied to
different species or genera. herbaceous plants. Woody-based perennials
INFUSION A liquid obtained by steeping only die down partially.
herbs in boiling water. pH A scale of measurement that indicates the
INVASIVE A vigorous-growing plant that will acidity or alkalinity of soil. The scale ranges
suffocate neighbouring plants if not from 1—14; pH 7 is neutral, below 7 is acid,
contained or controlled. above is alkaline.
LANCEOLATE A narrow, spear-head-like
shape , tapering at both ends. Applies to leaf
shape.
LAYERING A method of propagation whereby
a stem is pegged down into the soil and
induced to root while still attached to the
parent plant.
LlME Compounds of calcium. Some soils
have a predominant lime content. The
amount of lime determines whether a soil is
acid, neutral or alkaline.
LOAM Soil made up of an even mixture of
clay and sand, with a balanced mixture of
nutrients. It is well-drained, fertile and
moisture retentive. Feverfew is a decorative, hardy perennial
PINCHING OUT The removal of the growing

tips of a plant, using the finger and thumb,
to encourage the production of side-shoots.
Also known as ‘stopping’.
PRICK OUT Transfer of seedlings from the
container or bed in which they germinated to
alternative pots or soil where they have room
to develop and grow.
PROPAGATION Increasing plants vegetatively
or by seed.
PROSTRATE Growing low or flat over the
surface of the ground.
RUNNER A slender, horizontally spreading
stem that runs along the surface of the soil, Variegated lemon thyme has multi-coloured leaves
rooting at intervals.
SELF-SEED Plants that shed their seeds
around them after flowering, from which TENDER Term applied to plants that are
new plants will grow the following year. susceptible to damage at low temperatures.
SPECIES A classification applying to plants of They cannot survive outside during winter
the same specific kind. Individual plants that and should be brought indoors as they are
breed together and have the same constant vulnerable to frost damage.
characters. Species grown from seed are TILTH Soil broken down into small crumbs
consistently true to type. by correct digging and raking. An ideal, fine,
Tap ROOT The main root of a plant that crumbly, top layer of soil.
grows downwards. Long and strong, it TOPIARY The art of clipping and training
stretches down into the soil. dense-leaved shrubs and trees into geometric
and unusual shapes.
TOPSOIL The fertile, uppermost layer of soil
in which most plants root.
Umbel A flat-topped or rounded flower
cluster on individual flower stalks radiating
from one central point.
VARIEGATED A word used to describe leaves
(or flowers) that exhibit more than one
colour. Generally used to describe leaves with
white or cream markings.
VARIETY A word used to describe a variant
from an original species or hybrid. Now
often used to describe variants induced by
cultivation (cultivars).
Angelica is a biennial that sets seed in its second WHORL Three or more leaves or flowers
year, and which is best propagated from seed forming a ring at one stem joint.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Yvonne Cuthbertson discovered the joys of

herb gardening some years ago when she and
her family moved into a non-working farm. It
came complete with two acres of uncultivated
farmland where she set about making a large
herb garden. This was just the start of her
fascination with herbs and, as the years
progressed, more house moves have enabled
her to make several more such gardens.
A former primary-school head teacher, Yvonne
holds a Royal Horticultural Society General
Certificate in Horticulture. She has written for
a variety of publications, both in Britain and
abroad, on topics including gardening, Yvonne and her husband have recently
herbalism, antiques, conservation and moved to Northern Ireland, while their
alternative medicine. She often combines her daughter is a student at University College,
love of writing with a passion for photography. London.
INDEX
Page numbers in bold include illustrations of herb. Page numbers in italics indicate main references to herbs
A angelica, candied 157 bergamot (monarda) 5,37,41,49,

achillea (achillea) 107 anise (pimpinella) 12, 30, 36, 100, 97, 101, 102, 104
Achillea 109 biennials 30
filipendulina (achillea) 107 anise hyssop (agastache) 98 bistort (polygonum) 3, 6
millefolium (yarrow) 104, 105 annuals 30 borage (borago) 14, 21, 24, 30,
Acinos arvensis (basil thyme) 12 Anthriscus cerefolium (chervil) 30, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 44, 45, 91,
Agastache 33, 86, 91, 109, 138, 140 105
foeniculum (anise hyssop) 98 aphids 57 Borago officinalis (forage) 14,21,
rugosa (Korean mint) 104 applemint (mentha) 28, 102, 109, 24, 30, 33, 35,37, 39,41,44,
agrimony (agrimonia) 35, 38, 39 123 45, 91, 105
Agrimonia eupatoria (agrimony) apple pelargonium 25 Bowles mint (mentha) 28
35, 38, 39 Armoracia rusticana (horseradish) box (buxus) 5, 12, 36
Ajuga reptans (bugle) 33, 105 7, 49, 92, 105 brick paths 121
‘Alaska’ (tropaeolum) 17, 63, 72 Artemisia broom (cytisus) 38
‘Albus’ (thymus) 112 abrotanum (Southernwood) 24, buddleia (buddleia) 75, 105
Alcea rosea (hollyhock) 108 35, 37, 98-9 Buddleia
Alchemilla mollis (lady’s mantle) 33 absinthium (wormwood) 34, 41, davidii 105
alecost (tanacetum) 37 46 globosa 75
Alexandria’ (fragaria) 128 dracunculoides (Russian tarragon) bugle (ajuga) 33, 105
alkanet (alkanna) 38, 104 89 bush basil (ocimum) 72, 80, 84,
Alkanna tinctoria (dyer’s bugloss) dracunculus (tarragon) 12, 21, 140, 142
38, 104 35, 46, 53, 63, 89, 93 butterflies 105
Allium ‘Aurea’ (lysimachia) 63, 123 Buxus sempervirens (box) 5, 12, 36
fistulosum (Welsh onion) 53 ‘Aurea’ (melissa) 33, 37 buying herbs 53
sativum (garlic) 39, 92 ‘Aureum’ (origanum) 14, 21, 33,
schoenoprasum (chives) 12, 14, 63 c
17, 19, 21,27, 36, 39, 79, 91, Aureum Crispum’ (origanum) 73 calamint (calamintha) 36, 104,
138, 140 autumn crocus (colchicum) 102, 122
tuberosum (garlic chives) 142 104 Calamintha
aloe (aloe) 53 alpina 122
Aloe vera (aloe) 53 B officinalis 36, 104
Aloysia triphylla (lemon verbena) balconies 74-5 Calendula officinalis (pot marigold)
27, 40, 46, 50, 63, 96, 102, 132 balsam, common (impatiens) 30 21, 24, 38, 45, 62, 63, 76, 96,
Alpine strawberry (fragaria) 128 banks, planting 128 104, 132, 139
Althaea officinalis (marsh mallow) ‘Baron Solemacher’ (fragaria) 128 Campanula rapunculus (rampion)
24, 33, 39, 42 barrels 62 35
Anethum graveolens (dill) 30, 35, basil see ocimum camphor plant (Tanacetum
42, 89, 91 basil minette (ocimum) 142 balsamintaxax. tormentosuni) 108
angelica (angelica) 5, 12, 21, 24, basil thyme (acinos) 12 candied flowers 156
25, 30, 34, 40, 44, 45 bay (laurus) 34,41,63,85-6,91, angelica 157
Angelica archangelica (angelica) 5, 132 caraway (carum) 30, 35, 39, 41,
12, 21, 24, 25, 30, 34, 40, 44, 45 bees 103—4 45, 158
caraway thyme (thymus) 14,138 Coriandrum sativum (coriander) E

carnation (dianthus) 37, 100, 113 12, 30, 35, 45, 88, 109 eau de cologne mint (mentha) 28,
carrot fly (Psila rosae) 58 Corsican mint (mentha) 17, 36, 37
Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) 4l 102, 122, 123, 124 Echium vulgare (viper’s bugloss)
cartwheel design gardens 16-18 cotton lavender (santolina) 12, 21, 30, 35, 100, 105
Carum carvi (caraway) 30, 35, 39, 35, 41, 97, 102, 108 elder (sambucus) 109
41, 45, 158 cotton thistle (onopordon) 30 elecampane (inula) 7, 12, 21, 24,
caterpillars 58 cowslip (primula) 2, 21, 41, 105 33, 34, 102, 109
catmint (nepeta) 37, 39, 102, 105 crazy-paving paths 118 Eruca vesicaria (rocket) 30, 33, 79,
celery leaf miner 58 creeping jenny (lysimachia) 63, 81, 105
Centaurium erythraea (centaury) 123 eucalyptus (eucalyptus) 133
128 creeping pennyroyal (mentha) 33, Eucalyptus citriodora (lemon-scented
centaury (centaurium) 128 112,123 eucalyptus) 133
Chamaemelum nobile (chamomile) creeping savory (satureja) 36, 73, evening primrose (oenothera) 24,
5, 115 90, 123 30, 33, 102, 104
‘Treneague’ 41, 110-11 creeping thyme (thymus) 36,112 everlasting herb garden 40-1
‘Flore Pleno’ (double) 12, 19, cross-pollination 45
21, 36, 102 cuckoo spit 58 F
see also German chamomile culinary herbs 78-9, 84-90 fennel (foeniculum) 12, 21, 32,
chamomile (chamaemelum) growing indoors 140 34, 40, 41, 42, 63, 91, 104,
see Chamaemelum nobile uses in cooking 91-3 105, 108
chamomile (matricaria) 14, 37, 39, culinary herb gardens 80-1 bronze fennel 24, 102
104 cumin (cuminum) 36, 100 fenugreek (trigonella) 109
chamomile lawns 110-1 Cuminum cyminum (cumin) 36, fertilizers 8
Chenopodium bonus-henricus (good 100 feverfew (tanacetum) 1, 10, 12,
king henry) 39 ‘Cunningham mint’ (mentha) 33, 24, 35, 39, 42, 104, 109
chervil (anthriscus) 30, 33, 86, 91, 112,123 fibreglass containers 62
109, 138, 140 curry plant (helichrysum) 21, 24, figwort (scrophularia) 33
chessboard design gardens 14-15 35, 46, 98, 108, 133 Filipendula ulmaria (meadowsweet)
Cichorium intybus (chicory) 34 Cytisus scoparius (broom) 38 38, 102, 104
chicory (cichorium) 34 flax (linum) 109
chives (allium) 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, D ‘Flore Pleno’ (chamaemelum) 12,
27, 36, 39, 79, 91, 138, 140 damping-off disease 57 19, 21, 36, 102
‘Cinnamon (ocimum) 84 ‘Dark Opal’ (ocimum) 84, 132, flower sugars 157
‘Citrata’ (mentha) 28, 37 138 flowers
clary sage (salvia) 30, 39, 100, 109 derris dust 58 candying 156, 157
clove carnation (dianthus) 100, 113 Dianthus drying 149
Colchicum autumnale (autumn caryophyllum (clove carnation) harvesting 146
crocus) 102, 104 100, 113 preserving in oil and vinegar
colour in gardens 94 chinensis ‘Strawberry Parfaid 25, 37 155-6
coltsfoot (tussilago) 105 digging techniques 8 Foeniculum vulgare (fennel) 12, 21,
comfrey (symphytum) 7, 35, 39, Digitalis purpurea (foxglove) 24, 32, 34, 40, 41,42, 63, 91, 104,
49,104 33, 34, 39, 101, 105 105, 108
common balsam (impatiens) 30 dill (anethum) 30, 35, 42, 89, 91 ‘Purpureum’ 24, 102
common thyme (thymus) 24, 28, diseases 25 56-7 foxglove (digitalis) 24, 33, 34, 39,
29 ‘Doone Valley (thymus) 123 101, 105
compact savory (satureja) 128 double chamomile (chamaemelum) Fragaria vesca (wild strawberry)
companion planting 59, 81 12, 19, 21, 36, 102 105
concrete paths 117 ‘Double Gleam Mixed’ ‘Baron Solemacher’ 128
containers (tropaeolum) 138 ‘Alexandria’ 128
choosing 60-2, 75 downy mildew 57 freezing herbs 154
herbs for 62-5 dried herbs
planting techniques 66 drying techniques 147-52 G
Convallaria majalis (lily of the storing 152 Galium odoratum (woodruff) 32,
valley) 32, 33, 38 dwarf comfrey (symphytum) 128 33, 36, 44, 99
coriander (coriandrum) 12, 30, 35, dyer’s bugloss (alkanna) 38,104 Galium verum (lady’s bedstraw) 38,
45, 88, 109 dyer’s gardens 38 128
INDEX 165
garden thyme (thymus) 24, 28, 29 Humulus lupulus (hops) 41 lavandula (lavender) 5, 12, 14, 35,
garlic (allium) 39, 92 Hypericum perforatum (St John’s 37, 41, 63, 95, 101, 102, 104,
garlic chives (allium) 142 wort) 24, 33, 35, 38, 101, 105 105
geranium, scented 24, 37, 46, 63, hyssop see Hyssopus officinalis Lavandula
100,131 Hyssopus officinalis (hyssop) 5, 12, angustifolia (English lavender)
German chamomile (matricaria) 21, 24, 32, 35, 39, 40, 46, 73, 24, 95
14, 37, 39, 104 101, 102, 159 ‘Hidcote’ 95
glossary 158-61 subsp. aristatus (rock hyssop) ‘Lodden Pink’ 95
glycerine preservation method 36, 63, 72, 128 ‘Munstead’ 95
152-3 ‘Nana Alba 17,36,124
golden lemon thyme (thymus) 14, I ‘Royal Purple’ 36
17, 73 Impatiens balsamina (common lavender see lavandula
golden rod (solidago) 2, 24, 38, balsam) 30 lawn chamomile (chamaemelum)
39, 108 indoor growing of herbs 130—43 41, 110-11
golden sage (salvia) 33, 131 informal garden designs 22-5 lawns, herb 110-2
‘Goldstream’ (thymus) 73, 122, insecticides 57, 59 layering 50-1
138 Inula helenium (elecampane) 7, 12, lemon balm (melissa) 12, 21, 24,
good king henry (chenopodium) 21, 24, 33, 34, 102, 109 32, 35, 37, 40, 41, 63, 92, 190
39 invasive herbs 63 variegated 33, 37
gravel paths 119 planting techniques 54 ‘Lemon Curd’ (thymus) 123
iris (iris) 41, 108 ‘Lemon Queen’ (helianthus) 107
H Iris lemon-scented basil (ocimum) 138
Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) florentina 41 lemon thyme (thymus) 19, 63, 80
109 germanica 108 lemon verbena (aloysia) 27, 40,
hanging baskets Ivatis tinctoria (woad) 38 46, 50, 63, 96 102, 132
indoors 138-9 Levisticum officinale (lovage) 12,
outdoors 68-9 1 21, 24, 33, 34,42, 92
hardwood cuttings 48-9 'Jackman’s Blue’ (ruta) 99, 108 Ligustrum vulgare (privet) 38
‘Hartington Silver’ (thymus) 73, Jacob’s ladder (polemonium) 7, 32, lily of the valley (convallaria) 32,
122 34, 45 33, 38
harvesting herbs 144—7, 151 Japanese honeysuckle (lonicera) 37 Linum usitatissimum (flax) 109
heartsease (viola) 21, 41, 105 jasmine (jasminum) 133 locations for gardens 5
hedges, herb 5, 11, 12 Jasminum polyanthum (jasmine) ‘Lodden Pink’ (lavandula) 95
heel cuttings 48 133 lonicera (honeysuckle) 5, 105
heights of herbs 34-6 Jekyll, Gertrude 109 Lonicera
Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 30, Jerusalem sage (phlomis) 108 hildebradiana 102
102 juniper (juniperus) 38, 44, 79 japonica (Japanese honeysuckle)
‘Lemon Queen’ 107 Juniperus communis (juniper) 38, 37
Helichrysum italicum (curry plant) 44, 79 periclymenum (wild honeysuckle)
21, 24, 35, 46, 98, 108, 133 33, 41
herb cartwheels 16-18 K lovage (levisticum) 12, 21, 24, 33,
herb ladders 19 ‘Kew Gold’ (salvia) 87 34, 42, 92
herb lawns 110-2 kitchens 130, 142-3 love-in-the-mist (nigella) 41
herb oils 155-6 knot gardens 11-13 lungwort (pulmonaria) 32, 39,
herb racks 141-2 knotted marjoram (origanum) 12, 101
herb seats 113-5 36, 140 Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’
herb vinegars 155-6 Korean mint (agastache) 104 (creeping jenny) 63, 123
‘Hidcote’ (lavandula) 95 Lythrum salicaria (purple
hollyhock (alcea) 108 L loosestrife) 104, 105
honeysuckle (lonicera) 5, 33, 37, lacewing larvae 57
41, 105 ladders, herb 19 M
hops (humulus) 41 lad’s love see southernwood maintenance
horehound (marrubium) 35, 63, ladybirds 57, 58 containers 75
128 lady’s bedstraw (galium) 38, 128 gardens 25
horseradish (armoracia) 7, 49, 92, lady’s mantle (alchemilla) 33 Malva moschata (musk mallow)
105 Laurus nobilis {bay) 34, 41, 63, 104, 105, 108-9
hoverflies 57 85-6, 91, 132 marigold see pot marigold
marjoram see origanum myrtle (myrtus) 41, 46, 63, 102, 133 pasque flower (pulsatilla) 128
Marrubium vulgare (horehound) Myrtus communis (myrtle) 41, 46, paths 10, 116-21
35, 63, 128 63, 102, 133 patios 74
marsh mallow (althaea) 24, 33, 39, ‘Flore Pleno’ 102 paving 120, 125, 127
42 pelargonium (scented geranium)
mat-forming herbs 124 N 24, 37, 46, 63, 100, 131
Matricaria recutita (German ‘Nana Alba (lavandula) 17, 36, 124 Pelargonium (scented geranium)
chamomile) 14, 37, 39, 104 nasturtium see tropaeolum x citrosum 131
meadowsweet (filipendula) 38, Nepeta cataria (catmint) 37, 39, crispum
102, 104 102, 105 ‘Prince Rupert’ 131
medicinal gardens 39 Nigella damascena (love-in-the- ‘Variegatum’ 131
melilot (melilotus) 100 mist) 41 odoratissimum (apple
Melilotus officinalis (melilot) 100 pelargonium) 25
Melissa officinalis (lemon balm) 12, o tomentosum 131
21, 24, 32, 35, 37, 40, 41, 63, ocimum (basil) 12, 30, 35, 36, 63, pennyroyal (mentha) 5, 12, 17,
92, 190 73, 84, 91, 100, 139, 104, 140, 19, 33, 36, 37, 39, 100, 112,
‘Aurea 33, 37 143 124
mentha (mint) 5, 7, 12, 21, 28, Ocimum basilicum (basil) pennyroyal lawns 112
35, 39, 49, 63, 92 var. aurauascens (purple) 140 peppermint (mentha) 28
Mentha ‘Cinnamon’ 84 peppermint scented geranium
x gracilis ‘Variegata’ 33, 37, 40, ‘Purple Ruffles’ 84, 132, 138 (pelargonium) 131
109, 139 var. citriodorum (lemon-scented) perennials 31-2
piperata (peppermint) 28 138 pests 25, 44, 56, 57-9
‘Citrata’ (eau de cologne var. minimum (bush) 72, 80, Petroselinum crispum (parsley) 12,
mint) 28, 37 84, 142 17, 19, 21, 25, 26-7, 30, 36,
var. rubra (purple-tinted ‘Minette’ 142 41, 63, 92, 139
black peppermint) 109 ‘Dark Opal’ 84, 132, 138 pH-testing kits 6
pulegium (pennyroyal) 5, 12, Oenothera biennis (evening Phlomis fruticosa (Jerusalem sage)
17, 19, 33, 36, 37, 39, 100, primrose) 24, 30, 33, 102, 104 108
112, 124 oils, herb 155-6 Phytoseiulus perimilis 5 8
‘Cunningham mint’ (creeping onion white rot 57 Pimpinella anisum (anise) 12, 30,
pennyroyal) 33, 112, 123 Onopordon acanthium (cotton 36, 100, 109
requienii (Corsican mint) 17, thistle) 30 pineapple mint (mentha) 14, 102
36, 102, 122, 123, 124 orange scented thyme (thymus) pineapple sage (salvia) 37, 87, 113,
rotundifolia (Bowles mint) 28 73, 124 131, 138
spicata (spearmint) 24, 28, 142 oregano see Origanum vulgare planning gardens 4-10
suaveolens (applemint) 28, 102, origanum (marjoram) 35, 41, 42, planting techniques 54
109, 123 46, 84, 92, 101, 105 Polemonium caeruleum (Jacob’s
‘Variegata’ (pineapple mint) Origanum ladder) 7, 32, 34, 45
14, 102 majorana (sweet or knotted Polygonatum multiflorum
mildew 57 marjoram) 12, 19, 30, 36, 63, 140 (Solomon’s seal) 32
‘Minor’ (thymus) 123 mites (pot marjoram) 35, 84, 142 Polygonum bistorta (bistort) 3, 6
‘Munstead’ (lavandula) 95 vulgare (oregano) 24, 84 poppy (papaver) 21,41,43,104
mint see mentha ‘Aureum’ (golden marjoram) Portulaca oleracea (purslane) 79
mint rust 56 14, 21, 33, 63 pot marigold (calendula) 21, 24,
mixed borders 106-9 Aureum Crispum’ (curled 38, 45, 62, 63, 76, 96, 104,
Monarda didyma (bergamot) 5, 37, golden marjoram) 73 132, 139
41, 49, 97, 101, 102, 104 ‘Compactum’ (compact potagers 82-3
moneywort see creeping jenny marjoram) 17, 72, 73 potpourri gardens 37
mound layering 51 ‘White Anniversary’ 17 pots
mulches 25, 31 Oswego tea (monarda) 97 choosing 60-2, 75
mullein (verbascum) 12, 21, 24,
herbs for 62-5
30, 34, 104 P planting techniques 66
‘Munstead’ (lavandula) 95 papaver (poppy) 21,41,43,104 potting-on 136-7
musk mallow (malva) 104, 105, 108 parsley (petroselinum) 12, 17, 19, powdery mildew 57
Myrrhis odorata (sweet cicely) 21, 21,25, 26-7, 30, 36,41,63, preserving herbs 147-57
32, 33, 35, 44, 45, 93, 100, 109 92, 139 primrose (primula) 21
INDEX 167
Primula rose see rosa montana (winter savory) 12, 21,

veris (cowslip) 21,2,41, 105 rosemary (rosmarinus) 5, 12, 21, 35, 36, 46, 90
vulgaris (primroses) 21 29, 37, 39, 40, 41, 63, 93, 101, ‘Prostrate White’ (compact
‘Prince Rupert’ (pelargonium) 131 102, 105, 131 savory) 128
propagation techniques Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) 5, spicigera (creeping savory) 36,
cuttings 46-9 12, 21, 29, 37, 39, 40, 41, 63, 73, 90, 123
layering 50-1 93, 101, 102, 105, 131 savory see satureja
root division 52-3,135 rots and mildews 57 scale (disease) 57
seed 42-5, 134-5 ‘Royal Purple’ (lavandula) 36 scented geranium 24, 37, 46, 63,
‘Prostrate White’ (satureja) 128 ‘Ruby Glow’ (thymus) 112, 122 100, 131
Prunella vulgaris (self heal) 105 rue(ruta) 21,24,32,35,38,39, scented herb gardens 100-2
pruning 55 41, 46, 99, 100 Scrophularia nodosa (figwort) 33
indoor herbs 137 ‘Jackman’s Blue’ 99, 108 seed
Psila rosae (carrot fly) 58 Rumex acetosa (sorrel) 25, 33, 35, harvesting 45, 147, 149
psyllids (suckers) 57 93 propagating 42-5, 134-5
Pulmonaria officinalis (lungwort) Russian tarragon (artemisia) 89 self heal (prunella) 105
32, 39, 101 rusts 56 semi-formal garden designs 20-1
Pulsatilla vulgaris (pasque flower) Ruta graveolens (rue) 21, 24, 32, semi-ripe cuttings 48
128 35,38, 39, 41, 46, 99, 100 shade 32-3
purple basil (ocimum) 84, 132, ‘Jackman’s Blue’ 99, 108 Shakespearean herb garden 41
138,140 shrubby germander (teucrium) 12
purple leaved sage (salvia) 14, 41, s ‘Silver Posie’ (thymus) 14, 73,
109, 131, 138 safflower (carthamus) 41 122,124
purple loosestrife (lythrum) 104, sage see salvia ‘Silver Queen’ (thymus) 14
105 salad burnet (sanguisorba) 24, 41, sink gardens 70-2
‘Purple Ruffles’ (ocimum) 84, 132, 63, 86-7, 93, 79, 139 slugs 58-9
138 salvia (sage) 12, 20, 21, 24, 35, snails 58-9
purple-tinted black peppermint 39, 40, 46, 63, 87-8, 93, 101, ‘Snowdrift’ (thymus) 73, 123, 124
(mentha) 109 104, 131 soakaways 6
purslane (portulaca) 79 Salvia soapwort (saponaria) 34
elegans ‘Scarlet Pineapple’ softwood cuttings 46-7
R (pineapple sage) 37,87,113, soil 6-7
raised beds 76-7 131, 138 Solidago virgaurea (golden rod) 2,
rampion (campanula) 35 officinalis 24, 38, 39, 108
red sage (salvia) 101 ‘Albiflore’ (white sage) 87 Solomon’s seal (polygonatum) 32
red spider mite 58 var. Icterina (golden sage) sorrel (rumex) 25, 33, 35, 93
rock hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis 33, 131 southernwood (artemisia) 24, 35,
subsp. aristatus) 36, 63, 72, 128 ‘Kew Gold’ 87 37, 98-9
rockeries 128—9 ‘Purpurascens’ (purple/red sage) spearmint (mentha) 24, 28, 142
rocket (eruca) 30, 33, 79, 81, 105 14, 41, 101, 109, 131, 138 St John’s wort (hypericum) 24, 33,
Roman chamomile (chamaemelum) var. tricolor (tricolour sage) 35, 38, 101, 105
5, 115 109,131 stepping stones 126
‘Treneague’ 41, 110-11 sclarea (clary sage) 30, 39, 100, strawberry pots 73
roof gardens 74—5 109 suckers 57
roots var. turkestanica 87 summer savory (satureja) 30, 44,
cuttings 49 viridis (painted sage) 73, 87 90, 139, 140
division 52-3 Sambucus nigra (elder) 109 sunflower (helianthus) 30, 102,
drying 149 Sanguisorba minor (salad burnet) 107
harvesting 147 24, 41, 63, 79, 86-7 93, 139 sweet basil see ocimum
rosa (rose) 133 Santolina chamaecyparissus (cotton sweet cicely (myrrhis) 21,32,33,
Rosa lavender) 12,21,35,41,55, 35, 44, 45, 93, 100, 109
‘Albertine’ 100 97, 102, 108 sweet marjoram (origanum) 12,
canina 41 Saponaria officinalis (soapwort) 34 19, 30, 36, 63, 140
eglanteria 100 satureja (savory) 3, 41, 90, 101, 104 Symphytum (comfrey)
‘Rosy Mantle’ 37 Satureja grandiflorum (dwarf comfrey) 128
rubiginosa 100 hortensis (summer savory) 30, officinale (comfrey) 7, 35, 39,
rugosa 100 44, 90, 139, 140 49, 104
T pseudolanuginusus 112 vegetable plots 81 see also potager

Tanacetum serphyllum (creeping thyme) 36, Verbascum thapsus (mullein) 12,
balsamita 37 112' 21, 24, 30, 34, 104
balsamita var. tormentosum coccineus 123 Verbena officinalis (vervain) 104
(camphor plant) 108 ‘Coldstream’ 73, 122 vervain (verbena) 104
parthenium (feverfew) 1, 10, 12, ‘Lemon Curd’ 123 vinegars, herb 155-6
24, 35, 39, 42, 104, 109 ‘Minor’ 123 Viola
vulgare (tansy) 7, 20, 31, 32, ‘Ruby Glow’ 112, 122 odorata (violet) 32, 33, 37, 41,
35, 38, 39, 41, 104, 160 ‘Snowdrift’ 73, 123, 124 44, 101, 105
tansy (tanacetum) 7, 20, 31, 32, vulgaris (common/garden tricolor (heartsease) 21,41, 105
35, 38, 39, 41, 104, 160 thyme) 24, 28, 29 violet (viola) 32, 33, 37, 41, 44,
tarragon (artemisia) 12, 21, 35, ‘Silver Posie’ 14, 73, 122, 101, 105
46, 53, 63, 89, 93 124 viper’s bugloss (echium) 30, 35,
tea gardens 40 topiary 55 100, 105
Teucrium fruticans (shrubby ‘Treneague’ (chamaemelum) 41,
germander) 12 110-11 w
thyme see thymus tricolour sage (salvia) 109,131 Welsh onion (allium) 53
thyme lawns 112 Trigonella foenum-graecum ‘Whirlybird Series’ (tropaeolum)
thymus (thyme) 12, 21, 28, 36, 37, (fenugreek) 109 138
38, 39, 40, 46, 63, 72, 73, 101, Tropaeolum ‘White Anniversary’ (origanum)
105 majus (nasturtium) 3, 30 17
Thymus ‘Alaska’ 17, 63, 72,138, 139 white sage (salvia) 87
azoricus 73, 124 ‘Double Gleam Mixed’ 138 wild honeysuckle (lonicera) 33, 41
x citriodorus (lemon thyme) 19, ‘Tmiling Mixed’ 21 wild strawberry (fragaria) 105
63, 80 ‘Whirlybird Series’ 138 window boxes 67
‘Aureus’ (golden lemon troughs, planting techniques 66 windowsills 142-143
thyme) 14, 17, 73 herbs for 63-5 winter protection 25,31
‘Archer’s Gold’ 138 tubs, planting techniques 66 winter savory (satureja) 12, 21, 35,
‘Silver Queen’ 14 herbs for 63-5 36, 46, 90
drucei Tussilago farfara (coltsfoot) 105 witch hazel (hamamelis) 109
‘Albus’ 112 woad (ivatis) 38
‘Doone Valley’ 123 V wooden half barrels 62
fragrantissimus (orange scented valerian (valeriana) 33, 35, 100, 105 woodruff (galium) 32, 33, 36, 44,
thyme) 73, 124 Valeriana officinalis (valerian) 33, 99
‘Hartington Silver’ 73, 122 35, 100, 105 wormwood (artemisia) 34 41 46
herba-barona (caraway thyme) ‘Variegata’ (mentha) 33, 37, 40,
14, 138 109, 139 Y
praecox 112 ‘Variegatum’ (pelargonium) 131 yarrow (achillea) 104, 105
OTHER TITLES AVAILABLE EROM
GMC Publications
BOOKS
Upholstery Celtic Knotwork Designs Sheila Sturrock

The Upholsterer's Pocket Reference Book David James Celtic Knotwork Handbook Sheila Sturrock
Upholstery: A Complete Course (Revised Edition) David James Celtic Spirals and Other Designs Sheila Sturrock
Upholstery Restoration David James Complete Pyrography Stephen Poole
Upholstery Techniques & Projects David James Creative Embroidery Tedmiques Using Colour Through Gold
Upholstery Tips and Hints David James Daphne J. Ashby & Jackie Woolsey
The Creative Quilter: Tedmiques and Projects Pauline Brown
Toymaking
Cross-Stitch Designs from China Carol Phillipson
Scrollsaw Toy Projects Ivor Carlyle
Decoration on Fabric: A Sourcebook of Ideas Pauline Brown
Scrollsaw Toys for All Ages Ivor Carlyle
Decorative Beaded Purses Enid Taylor
Dolls' Houses and Miniatures Designing and Making Cards Glennis Gilruth
1/12 Scale Character Figures for the Dolls' House James Carrington Glass Engraving Pattern Book John Everett
Architecture for Dolls' Houses Joyce Percival Glass Painting Emma Sedman
The Authentic Georgian Dolls' House Brian Long Handcrafted Rugs Sandra Hardy
A Beginners' Guide to the Dolls' House Hobby Jean Nisbett How to Arrange Flowers: A Japanese Approach to English Design
Celtic, Medieval and Tudor Wall Hangings in 1/12 Scale Needlepoint
Taeko Marvelly
Sandra Whitehead
How to Make First-Class Cards Debbie Brown
The Dolls' House 1/24 Scale: A Complete Introduction Jean Nisbett
An Introduction to Crewel Embroidery Mave Glenny
Dolls' House Accessories, Fixtures and Fittings Andrea Barham
Dolls' House Makeovers Jean Nisbett Making and Using Working Drawings for Realistic Model Animals
Dolls' House Window Treatments Eve Harwood Basil F. Fordham
Easy to Make Dolls' House Accessories Andrea Barham Making Character Bears Valerie Tyler
How to Make Your Dolls' House Special: Fresh Ideas for Decorating Making Decorative Screens Amanda Howes
Beryl Armstrong Making Fairies and Fantastical Creatures Julie Sharp
Make Your Own Dolls' House Furniture Maurice Harper Making Greetings Cards for Beginners Pat Sutherland
Making Dolls' House Furniture Patricia King
Making Hand-Sewn Boxes: Techniques and Projects Jackie Woolsey
Making Georgian Dolls' Houses Derek Rowbottom
Making Knitwear Fit Pat Ashforth & Steve Plummer
Making Miniature Food and Market Stalls Angie Scan
Making Mini Cards, Gift Tags & Invitations Glennis Gilruth
Making Miniature Gardens Freida Gray
Making Miniature Oriental Rugs & Carpets Meik & Ian McNaughton Making Soft-Bodied Dough Characters Patricia Hughes
Making Period Dolls' House Accessories Andrea Barham Natural Ideas for Christmas: Fantastic Decorations to Make
Making Tudor Dolls' Houses Derek Rowbottom Josie Cameron-Ashcroft & Carol Cox
Making Victorian Dolls' House Furniture Patricia King New Ideas for Crochet: Stylish Projects for the Home Darsha Capaldi
Miniature Bobbin Lace Roz Snowden Patchwork for Beginners Pauline Brown
Miniature Embroidery for the Georgian Dolls' House Pamela Warner
Pyrography Designs Norma Gregory
Miniature Embroidery for the Tudor and Stuart Dolls' House
Pyrography Handbook (Practical Crafts) Stephen Poole
Pamela Warner
Rose Windows for Quilters Angela Besley
Miniature Embroidery for the Victorian Dolls' House Pamela Warner
Miniature Needlepoint Carpets Janet Granger Rubber Stamping with Other Crafts Lynne Garner
More Miniature Oriental Rugs & Carpets Meik & Ian McNaughton Sponge Painting Ann Rooney
Needlepoint 1/12 Scale: Design Collections for the Dolls' House Stained Glass: Techniques and Projects Mary Shanahan
Felicity Price Step-by-Step Pyrography Projects for the Solid Point Machine
New Ideas for Miniature Bobbin Lace Roz Snowden Norma Gregory
The Secrets of the Dolls' House Makers Jean Nisbett Tassel Making for Beginners Enid Taylor
Tatting Collage Lindsay Rogers
Crafts
Temari: A Traditional Japanese Embroidery TecJinique Margaret Ludlow
American Patchwork Designs in Needlepoint Melanie Tacon
Trip Around the World: 25 Patchwork, Quilting and Applique
A Beginners' Guide to Rubber Stamping Brenda Hunt
Beginning Picture Marquetry Lawrence Threadgold Projects Gail Lawther
Blackwork: A New Approach Brenda Day Trompe l'Oeil: Techniques and Projects Jan Lee Johnson
Celtic Cross Stitch Designs Carol Phillipson Wax Art Hazel Marsh
Field Guide to Landscape Photography Peter Watson
Gardening
Light in the Landscape: A Photographer's Year Peter Watson
Auriculas for Everyone: How to Grow and Show Perfect Plants
Mary Robinson Outdoor Photography Portfolio GMC Publications
Beginners' Guide to Herb Gardening Yvonne Cuthbertson Photographing Fungi in the Field George McCarthy
Bird Boxes and Feeders for the Garden Dave Mackenzie Photography for the Naturalist Mark Lucock
The Birdwatcher's Garden Hazel & Pamela Johnson Viewpoints from Outdoor Photography GMC Publications
Broad-Leaved Evergreens Stephen G. Haw
Where and How to Photograph Wildlife Peter Evans
Companions to Clematis: Growing Clematis with Other Plants
Marigold Badcock
Creating Contrast with Dark Plants Freya Martin
VIDEOS
Creating Small Habitats for Wildlife in your Garden Josie Briggs
Exotics are Easy GMC Publications Drop-in and Pinstuffed Seats David James
Gardening with Wild Plants Julian Slatcher Stuffover Upholstery David James
Growing Cacti and Other Succulents in the Conservatory and Elliptical Turning David Springett
Indoors Shirley-Anne Bell Woodturning Wizardry David Springett
Growing Cacti and Other Succulents in the Garden Shirley-Anne Bell
Turning Between Centres: The Basics Dennis White
Hardy Perennials: A Beginner's Guide Eric Sawford
Turning Bowls Dennis White
Hedges: Creating Screens and Edges Averil Bedrich
Boxes, Goblets and Screw Threads Dennis White
The Living Tropical Greenhouse: Creating a Haven for Butterflies
John & Maureen Tampion Novelties and Projects Dennis White
Orchids are Easy: A Beginner's Guide to their Care and Cultivation Classic Profiles Dennis White
Tom Gilland Twists and Advanced Turning Dennis White
Plant Alert: A Garden Guide for Parents Catherine Collins Sharpening the Professional Way Jim Kingshott
Planting Plans for Your Garden Jenny Shukman
Sharpening Turning & Carving Tools Jim Kingshott
Plants that Span the Seasons Roger Wilson
Bowl Turning John Jordan
Sink and Container Gardening Using Dwarf Hardy Plants
Hollow Turning John Jordan
Chris & Valerie Wheeler
Woodturning: A Foundation Course Keith Rowley
The Successful Conservatory and Growing Exotic Plants Joan Phelan
Carving a Figure: The Female Form Ray Gonzalez
Photography The Router: A Beginner's Guide Alan Goodsell
An Essential Guide to Bird Photography Steve Young The Scroll Saw: A Beginner's Guide John Burke
MAGAZINES
Woodturning ♦ Woodcarving ♦ Furniture & Cabinetmaking
The Router ♦ Woodworking ♦ The Dolls' House Magazine
Machine Knitting News ♦ BusinessMatters
Outdoor Photography ♦ Black and White Photography
The above represents a selection of titles available direct from the Publishers or through bookshops, newsagents
and specialist retailers. To place an order, or to obtain a complete catalogue, contact:
GMC Publications,
Castle Place, 166 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XU United Kingdom
Tel: 01273 488005 Fax: 01273 478606
Orders by credit card are accepted
Herb gardening has all the virtues — it is easy, inexpenWAand vfery satisfying
and combines the pleasures of the flower garden with the usefulness of /y STERLING
the vegetable plot.
Anyone can grow herbs and lack of space is no restriction.

Given the right conditions, herbs will thrive as well in a pot on a windowsill a
they will in a country garden, and will reward you with luxuriant foliage and
rich and aromatic perfumes.
This delightful book will inspire confidence in anyone new to gardening, but
also has much to offer the more experienced gardener. Clear instructions and
numerous photographs make this an invaluable reference book for all who
wish to experience the pleasure of growing herbs.
Designing and planning your herb garden

Choosing and planting herbs
Propagation and pruning
Growing herbs in containers and raised beds
Growing culinary herbs
Herbs for fragrance and colour
Herb lawns and seats, paths and paving
Herbs indoors
Harvesting and drying
Glossary of gardening terms
ISBN 1-86108-198-7

Beginner's Guide by Yvonne Cuthbertson

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tt

SAN FRANCISCO PUJ

GUILD OF MASTER CRAFTSMAN

First published 2001 by

Text © Yvonne Cuthbertson 2001

Illustrations by Penny Brown

ISBN 1 86108 198 7

All rights reserved

British Cataloguing in Publication Data

Cover design by Stonecastle Graphics

Book designed and edited by Margot Richardson

Colour separation by Viscan Graphics Pte Ltd (Singapore)

3 1223 06062 5796

1 DESIGNING AND PLANNING A HERB GARDEN 4

2 CHOOSING HERBS FOR A GARDEN 26

3 PROPAGATION, PRUNING, PESTS AND DISEASES 42

4 GROWING HERBS IN CONTAINERS AND RAISED BEDS 60

5 GROWING AND USING CULINARY HERBS 78

6 HERBS FOR FRAGRANCE AND COLOUR 94

7 HERB LAWNS AND SEATS, PATHS AND PAVING 110

8 GROWING HERBS INDOORS 130

9 HARVESTING AND PRESERVING HERBS 144

GLOSSARY OF GARDENING TERMS 158

ABOUT THE AUTHOR 152

Feverfew produces masses of daisy-like flowers

Their aesthetic appeal and decorative and

Golden rod has upright stems and pointed leaves,

timeless, reminiscent of bygone days when

kitchen door and picking a handful of cultivate herbs in containers, which is an

Herbs are a striking and invaluable feature of SIZE

A traditional American herb garden at the American Museum in Bath, England

Most herbs, including hyssop, need sun to thrive

SOIL Types of soil

rubble or large stones gravel or coarse sand

STAGE 1: Dig a hole at least 60cm (2ft)

STAGE 2: Fill it to within 30cm (12in) of the

STAGE 3: Cover with a 15cm (6in) layer of

excellent soil conditioners. Bark is best left on

actual structure. to retain moisture. Don’t do this any earlier

FERTILIZERS topsoil to make it look good. (This can also

PLANTING PLANNING ON PAPER

graveolens) as the backbone of your design,

FORMAL DESIGNS: The keynote of such a garden was its

garden’s owners. symmetry neat.

Hedges Medium-sized herbs

Examples of knot garden designs

Creating a knot garden

FORMAL DESIGNS: CHESSBOARD

Ball of string 'Purpurascens')

Short wooden stakes or pegs Thymes:

A finished chessboard garden

STAGE 10: Start the second row by placing

with the edge of the board to ensure that the

check that all sides of the plot are of equal

hand corner, using the string as a guide. cotton lavender.

Make sure that it rests snugly against the

Creating a log-roll cartwheel

STAGE 2: Dig the soil, removing turf or gravel

The herb wheel when

Plan for herb ladder

SEMI-FORMAL DESIGNS: smaller plants to the front. The border can be

INFORMAL HERB GARDENS

An informal, old-fashioned herb garden that