THE AK 427 BUILD MANUAL

STANDARD XJ6 BASED CHASSIS ONLY!

1
DEAR FELLOW ENTHUSIAST

CONGRATULATION`S ON YOUR CHOICE OF AN AK 427 COBRA KIT.

THE AK 427 WAS INTRODUCED IN 1990 AND IS THE RESULT ENTHUSIASTS

LIKE YOURSELF WANTING TO SEE A QUALITY PRODUCT THAT WAS
STRONG WITH A FLEXIBILTY OF BUILD ENABLING THE USE OF
DIFFERENT ENGINE GEARBOX COMBINATIONS COMBINED WITH THE
STRENGTH AND RELIABILITY OF JAGUAR RUNNING GEAR.

WE HOPE YOU HAVE MANY HOURS OF ENJOYMENT WITH YOUR BUILD,

THE BUILD MANUAL IS FOR YOUR REFERENCE BUT REMEMBER WE ARE
ONLY A PHONE CALL OR E-MAIL AWAY SHOULD YOU NEED ANY HELP
OR ADVICE NOT COVERED IN THE BUILD MANUAL. WE CONTINUALLY STRIVE
TO IMPROVE AND UPDATE THE KIT AND MANY IMPROVEMENTS ARE DUE TO
OUR HANDS ON APPROACH AND AK OWNERS FEEDBACK.

THE AK 427 IS DESIGNED WITH FLEXIBILITY IN MIND, YOU BUILD

FROM THE BASIC CHASSIS BODY PACKAGE OR FROM A ROLLING
CHASSIS, WE EVEN DO TURNKEY OPTIONS, THIS FLEXIBILITY
ENABLES YOU TO SPREAD THE COST TO SUIT YOUR CIRCUMSTANCES.

AS WELL AS THE BASIC KIT BODY AND CHASSIS KITS, WE ALSO SUPPLY SOME
OF THE SPECIALIST PARTS REQUIRED IN THE BUILD WITH OPTIONS FROM
STAINLESS STEEL ENGINE BAY CLADDING TO HEADER TANK`S AND WASHER
BOTTLES.

WHATEVER YOUR REQUIRMENTS, AK WILL ENDEAVOR TO MEET YOUR

NEEDS

WE WISH YOU GREAT SUCCESS WITH YOUR PROJECT.

JON, WENDI and THE AK TEAM.

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 INTRODUCTION- IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!

WE WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU READ THIS BUILD MANUAL IN ITS

ENTIRETY SO AS TO FULLY FAMILIARISE YOURSELF WITH THE
CONTENTS HEREIN.

ALTHOUGH EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO APPROACH THE

BUILD COMPREHENSIVELY, THIS IS NOT A DIFINITIVE WORK AND
IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE WITH WHICH TO ASSIST AND ADVISE YOU
DURING THE BUILD PROCESS.

DUE TO THE VERY NATURE AND CONCEPT OF BUILDING A REPLICA

CAR IN COMPONENT FORM AND THE DIFFERENCES WITH WHICH
EACH CUSTOMER WILL APPROACH THEIR PROJECT, THERE IS GOING
TO BE AREAS NOT ADDRESSED, WITH THIS IN MIND THE CUSTOMER
SHOULD APPROACH THE BUILD AWARE THAT THERE PARTICULAR
CHOICES WILL AFFECT THE FINAL OUTCOME.

WITH THIS IN MIND WE ARE ALWAYS HERE TO HELP AND ADVICE

SHOULD ANY PROBLEMS AND/OR QUERIES ARISE?

WE HAVE SOLVED MANY PROBLEMS FOR PREVIOUS CUSTOMERS

DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK, YOU WONT BE THE FIRST.

REMEMBER TO TAKE PICTURES IN YOUR WORKSHOP/GARAGE DURING THE

BUILD AS YOU WILL NEED SOME OF THESE WHEN APPLYING FOR YOUR IVA
TEST AND REGISTERING YOUR CAR AS AN AMATEUR BUILD!!!!!.

GOOD LUCK.

JON, WENDI and THE AK TEAM

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CONTENTS:
CHAPTER ONE…………. Your AK 427- For AK STANDARD chassis:

Specification
Dimensions & Design Weights
Engine and Gearbox options
AK 427 Kit contents
Optional Parts Manufactured by AK & Prices
Donor list
Parts suppliers list and approximate costs

CHAPTER TWO…………. Preparation- For AK STANDARD chassis:

Safety
Tools
Work area

CHAPTER THREE……… Chassis/Body- For AK STANDARD chassis:

Chassis support and preparation

Body storage

CHAPTER FOUR……… Running gear/Suspension- For Standard AK Chassis:

General information
Selection of suspension/Running gear
Front suspension stripping/preparation
Rear suspension stripping/preparation
Ready to rebuild

CHAPTER FIVE………….. Chassis build:

a. Front suspension fitting (Standard chassis only)

b. Rear suspension and diff fitting (Standard chassis only)
c. Brake lines/pipes
d. Fuel tank
e. Fuel pump and fuel lines/pipes

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CHAPTER SIX……………. Engine/ Gearbox/ Exhaust:

General information
Fitting

CHAPTER SEVEN……….. Cooling System:

Radiator/fitting
Header tank
Plumbing/hoses
Electric fans/thermostatic control

CHAPTER EIGHT……….. Body/Fitting:

Preparation/fitting body
Roll bar & seatbelt brackets
Windscreen
Door locks/Door escutcheons
Screen washers
Boot Hinges/locks/bonnet & boot stays
Lights/Head /Indicators/Brake/Number plate
Petrol filler/Pipework
Nudgebars/Overriders/Jacklifters
Seatbelts /Nose vents/Lower body wings/Side Vents

CHAPTER NINE…………. Cockpit/Components Mechanical:

Pedal box assembly

Brake Servo & Master Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Steering column /Steering Wheels
Handbrake
Heating system
Wiper motor/wipers
Instrument panel/instruments/Switchgear

CHAPTER TEN…………… Electrical:

Wiring loom/Fitting
Cockpit
Engine bay
Dashboard inc Pre fitting for trimmer
Front lights
Rear lights
Wiring Loom Instructions

CHAPTER ELEVEN……… Cockpit/Components Upholstery:

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 Carpeting
Door panels/Dash
Seats

CHAPTER TWELVE…….. Finishing:

Final Set up Details/Immobilizer

Wheels/Tyres
Hood/Tonneau/hardtop
Stalk ends/handbrake handle/Stoneguards
VIN plate
Door Trim / Bonnet & Boot Rubber
Front Anti roll Bar

CHAPTER THIRTEEN…….. Frequently Asked Questions:

AK Parts Packages including LS Parts
IVA Test Guidance
DVLA Applications
AK Transport Service

CHAPTER FOURTEEN…….. VARIOUS BUILD UP PICTURES:

CHAPTER FIFTEEN…….. MAINTAINING YOUR AK 427:

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

SPECIFICATION:

STANDARD CHASSIS…… Ladder frame construction of 75 x 50 x 3.2 section steel for

the main rails and 25 x 25 for the backbone section, floors
are panelled in 12 gauge steel for extra stiffness.
The chassis is jig assembled for accuracy of and component
fit ensuring correct suspension geometry. DESIGNED FOR
THE JAGUAR XJ6/XJS AXLES.

SUSPENSION STANDARD: Front:

XJ6/POST [Link] Upper and lower wishbones, swivel
hub assembly, stub axles, AK supplied mounting plate for
coil over shocks, AK supplied coil over shock absorbers
Rear:
XJ6/POST [Link] and lower wishbones
shortened supplied by AK on an exchange basis, rear diff
mounting bracket supplied by AK rear hub assemblies.

STEERING……………….. Rack and pinion modified and supplied by AK and BMW

E34 Steering column.

BRAKING SYSTEM…….. AK Pedal box, servo, master cylinder (Dual circuit)

sourced from Rover 25, incorporated with front and Rear
calipers and Discs (vented front) from either the Jaguar
XJ6.

FINAL DRIVE……………. Differential from Jaguar XJ6

RATIOS: Ideally - [Link] for ALL engine installations

BODY………………………. GRP body gel coated in grey as standard OR to customer

choice constructed in mould. With only three main
components (multi layered chopped Glass mat layered for
strength in key areas, Cockpit and Boot. Jig bonded to shell
for accuracy and rigid monocoque, double Skinned Bonnet,
Boot and Doors, complete with interior side Panels and
Dashboard.

WHEELS/TYRES.………… Halibrand replicas with spinners 15”, 16”, 17” or 18inch

with AK specific offsets!

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

ENGINE & GEARBOX APPLICATIONS

GENERAL INFO………….. The AK 427 is designed to accept various Engine and Gear
box combinations, listed below are some that have been
applied previously to the AK chassis, and have proved to be
reliable, easily fitted and giving excellent performance in
keeping with the concept of the original

ENGINES………………….. ROVER V8, 3500cc/3900cc/4200cc/4500cc/5000cc/6300cc

Although expensive to tune in its standard forms i.e. 3.5ltr
3.9ltr and 4.2ltr this is a very capable engine of light weight
compared to alternatives and extremely reliable with an
output of 165 BHP to 240 BHP, the tuned versions of all the
above whilst an expensive process can yield power outputs
of over 350 BHP.

CHEVROLET (small block) 265ci/283ci/302ci/327ci/350ci

4 bolt mains, cast iron or aluminium cylinder heads, solid
or hydraulic or solid lifters, power outputs of 260 BHP to
500 BHP achievable, these engines are easily obtainable and
comparatively inexpensive to tune compared to the rover,
although it is heavier due to being a cast iron block.

FORD V8, 221ci/260ci/289ci/302ci/351ci the 289 being the

original choice of these engines as fitted by Mr Shelby
himself like all the above Chevrolet engines the Ford power
units lend themselves to tuning with high outputs attainable
260 – 500 BHP.

CORVETTE LS3 6.2 litre, these new aluminium block

engines are now the number one choice with excellent fuel
economy and power available in 430 BHP, 480 BHP and
Supercharged option producing around 580 BHP. LS7 7.0
litre engines are the latest engines now installed achieving
around 600 BHP..

GEARBOXES……………… ROVER engines use the LT77 Rover 5 speed gearbox

CHEVROLET & FORD engines can use either the Tremec
TKO 500 or 600 or the T56 Magnum or Getrag gearbox.

CORVETTE LS3 & LS7 engines can use any of the

following: Tremec TKO 500/TKO 600/ T56 Magnum
gearboxes. NOTE We would recommend the TKO 600 for
the LS7 and LS3 Supercharged engines.

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1
LEADING DIMENSIONS
& DESIGN WEIGHTS

AK 427 DESIGN WEIGHTS.

AXLE 1 638 kg

AXLE 2 780 kg

GROSS 1400 kg

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

AK 427 KIT CONTENTS- STANDARD CHASSIS:

CHASSIS………………… Ladder type with partial backbone and full steel lowered floors
BODY……………………. Finished in grey gel coat (Other colours optional extra)

• Scuttle hoop bonded into full inner tub

• Body temporarily bolted to chassis
• Doors and bonnet pre-hung
• Top and bottom radiator frames
• Steering arms
• Front shock absorber mounting plates
• Engine and gearbox mounting plates
• Wiper motor bracket (attached to scuttle hoop)
• Steering column bracket (attached to scuttle hoop)
• Handbrake mounting bracket
• Handbrake cable
• Rear axle tie bars
• Shortened rear wishbones (exchange)
• Shortened driveshafts (exchange)
• Roll bar mountings
• Front and rear nudge bar mounting brackets
• Dashboard with glove box fitted (blank)
• Interior trim panels
• Seat belt mountings
• Heater collector box
• All body holes marked or pre-cut
• Holes drilled and tapped for door locks
• Rear differential mounting bracket

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

DONOR PARTS LIST- STANDARD CHASSIS:

JAGUAR POST 1974 (VENTILATED FRONT DISCS) XJ6 Series 2 and 3 and XJS

- FRONT AXLE (Get scrap yard to cut off car complete front subframe, also cut through spring coils)

- XJ6 DIFFS

V12 UPTO HE = 3.07

4.2 MANUAL = 3.31

3.4 ALL = 3.54

V12 AFTER HE = 2.88

4.2 AUTO = 3.058

XJS ALL UP TO HE = 3.07

XJS AFTER HE = 2.88

- REAR AXLE (Complete on subframe)

- RATIOS 3.54, 3.31, 3.07, 2.88 - Ratios depending on engine gearbox fitted

JAGUAR XJS:

HANDBRAKE ASSEMBY (or new item from Jaguar)

BMW E34 (Series 5 and 7) (PRE AIRBAG)- THE AIR BAG VERSION CAN NOW BE
MODIFIED TO USE

ADJUSTABLE STEERING COLUMN

(including ignition key and steering wheel, although these items will not be used. Top spline has
a nut fixing for wheel boss)

ROVER MK3 200 or Rover 25 SERIES (1995-2005)

SERVO AND MASTER CYLINDER (AK PEDAL BOX)

POLO Mk 2:
HEATER

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 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

‘Suggested’ Suppliers
(For parts not normally supplied by AK)

SUPPLIER ITEM PRICE

Slave Wheels - Jaguar £100.00

Breakers Yard/ E Bay • Heater Mk 2 Polo £45.00

• XJS Handbrake £90.00

• Jaguar Front and Rear Axles £500.00

• BMW E 34 Steering Column £150.00

Rover Mk 3 200 or Rover 25 – Servo & £50.00

master Cylinder

Simply Performance Jag • ALL your Jaguar Axles POA

Specialist 07796 002321

John Gordon Jag Spares

01254 398476 • Jaguar Axle Rebuild Parts £600.00

Brasscraft

Tel: 01252 782702

• Screen and Escutcheon £740.00

• Centre Stay £25.00

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 • Wind Wings £80.00

• Sun Visors £80.00

• Fuel Filler and Adapter £280.00

S & J Motors • Door Catches (silent travel) £90.00

Tel: 01257 262881 • Head/Side Lights and rims £90.00

• Front & Rear Indicators £66.00

• Stop Tail lights £31.00

• Rear Fog Light £12.00

• Number Plate Light £15.00

• Ignition Switch £12.00

• Start Button- large £18.00

• Gear Lever trim ring £18.00

• Demister Vent Moulted Plastic Inlets £30.00

• Boot Hinge set £45.00

• Heater Demist Vents £30.00

• Bonnet &Boot Handle & Latch set £90.00

• Reflector £12.00

• Mirrors Interior & Side £50.00

• Horns £19.00

• Washer Jets £18.00

• Side Repeater Lights £10.00

• Savage switches £83.00

• Dash Warning Lights £22.00

• Roll Bar Escutcheon £12.00

Car Builder Solutions

Tel: 01580 891309 New Compact Heater – Code HEAT 3 POA

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 ITEM PRICE

Merlin Motorsport

Tel: 01249 782101 • 7/8 Slave Cylinder (Getrag Only) POA

• 5/8 Master Cylinder c/w Integral Reservoir POA

& Adjustable Clevice Pin
• 3/16 Brake Pipe POA

• Brake Line Fittings POA

Seat Belts- Wilans Supersport Short 4 x 3 POA

• Fuel Line POA

LS Fuel Pump POA

Steering Wheel Boss ( Code 2006) POA

Europa Car Spares

Tel: 01283 815609 • Badges

£55.00

• Nudge Bars and over riders £395.00

• Gear Knob 20.00

• Seat Runners POA

• Steering Wheel £100.00

All Gears Workshop

Tel: 01909 478581 • Diff Reconditioning POA

Bailey Morris Ltd • Prop Shaft POA

Tel: 01480 216250 •

Road Craft UK • Chevy/ Ford/ LS Power Blocks and POA

Tremec Gearboxes

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01903 522900 •

AK Sportscars • OMEX Engine Management Systems POA

• Canems ECU System POA

Parts where we can supply parts • Jenvey Throttle Bodies POA

cheaper than you going direct to the
suppliers!

• Image Wheels. Halibrand Replicas POA

• 15”, 16”, 17” or 18”

• Speedy Cables – Instrument Set POA

Packages
•

PLEASE NOTE ALL PRICES ARE APPROXIMATE AND DO NOT INCLUDE VAT

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 AK Price List
(AK Supplied Parts specific to our car or parts competitively priced)

Standard AK 427 Body / Chassis Kit £4495.00

Generation II Body / Chassis Kit £4895.00

Generation III Supa Lite Body/Chassis Kit £5695.00

TRAILER DELIVERY/COLLECTION SERVICE POA

STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEMS

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS From £895.00

UNDERFLOOR EXHAUST SYSTEM (EXCL. MANIFOLDS) (EFI Systems extra) From £1220.00

STAINLESS STEEL SIDE PIPES 5” ( No CATS) £1280.00

STAINLESS STEEL SIDE PIPES 5” ( With CATS) £1580.00

STAINLESS EXHAUST ESCUTCHEON PLATES (PAIR) £40.00

WHEELS & TYRES Lead time 12 weeks

15 “ & 16” HALLIBRAND REPLICA WHEELS FITTED WITH TYRES – From £POA

17” HALLIBRAND REPLICA WHEELS FITTED WITH TYRES- From £2297.00

18” HALLIBRAND REPLICA WHEELS FITTED WITH TYRES- From £2558.00

ALL WHEELS COME WITH NUTS & SPINNERS

RECON PARTS

RECONDITIONED AXLES FRONT + BACK (XJ6 & XJ40) £2450.00

STAINLESS STEEL PARTS

S/S HEADER TANK From £295.00

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S/S ENGINE BAY CLADDING FITTED £395.00

S/S FUEL TANK COMPLETE (EFI systems extra) From £330.00

S/S BRAKE FLEXIES (PAIR) £65.00

S/S SIDE VENTS (PAIR) £100.00

S/S WASHER BOTTLE From £155.00

S/S SPLITTER WING £80.00

S/S TRIPLE SPLITTER WING + FITTING KIT £375.00

S/S SINGLE ROLL BAR £110.00

S/S 3 LEG ROLL BAR £230.00

S/S HEATER COVER £30.00

S/S DIFF COVER From £30.00

STONEGUARDS – ALUMINIUM (PAIR) £130.00

EXHAUST ESCUTCHEON PLATES (PAIR) £40.00

DOOR ESCUTCHEON PLATES (SET OF 4) £20.00

OTHER PARTS

AK PEDAL BOX £160.00

4 X GAS RAMS and FITTING BRACKETS £235.00

SET 6 COIL OVER SHOCKS AND SPRINGS ( XJ6) x 6 £720.00

GEN II + GEN III COIL OVER SHOCKS AND SPRINGS (XJ40) x 4 £550.00

FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR £195.00

GEARBOX ADAPTOR KIT – JAGUAR £365.00

STEERING COLUMN BUSH £65.00

XJ40 HANDBRAKE CABLE SET £210.00

ALUMINUM RADIATOR £285.00

GEN II + GEN III FACTORY FITTED WISHBONE BUSHES £130.00

FAN AND THERMOSTAT From £105.00

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ENGINE/GEARBOX/EXHAUST BOBBINS (EACH) £6.50

SLAVE CYLINDER BRACKET (CHEVY) £50.00

PUSH ROD £25.00

STEERING RACK TO COLUMN EXTENSION £75.00

TREMEC GEAR LEVER £15.00

HOSES AND HOSE KITS – BLUE OR BLACK

RADIATOR TO ENGINE HOSE KIT – CHEVY £110.00

HEATER PLUMBING IN HOSE KIT – CHEVY £80.00

STAINLESS STEEL HEATER RAIL £45.00

STAINLESS WATER HOSE £50.00

WIRING PACKAGES

AK WIRING LOOM inc WASH/WIPE INTERFACE £410.00

COMPLETE WIPER MOTOR PACKAGE – 3 BLADE £320.00

OMEX ECU PACKAGE From £1665.00

CANEMS ECU PACKAGE From £1665.00

POWER STEERING PACKAGES (INC STEERING RACK TO COLUMN EXT)

POWER STEERING SYSTEM - CHEVY £895.00

POWER STEERING SYSTEM - FORD £995.00

POWER STEERING LHD £995.00

POWER STEERING LS ENGINE £695.00

BODY OPTIONS

TRIPLE VENTILATION PODS/NOSE VENTS – ALUMINUM OR GLASSFIBRE From £75.00

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LOWER BODY WINGS £200.00

SMALL RIVETED ON OR LARGE SUPERCHARGED BONNET SCOOP £150.00

CURVED CENTRE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL £100.00

INTERNAL BOOT HINGES £150.00

BRAKE UPGRADE PACKAGE OPTIONS FOR XJ40 KITS Lead Time 6 weeks

17” MONSTER 6 POT £1520.00

18” MONSTER 6 POT £1650.00

INSTRUMENTS & COCKPIT PACKAGES Lead time 8 weeks

SMITHS “ CLASSIC” INSTRUMENTS – SPEEDO, REV,OIL PRESSURE,CLOCK, FUEL £760.00

WATER TEMP AND VOLTS INC ALL SENDERS

SMITHS “ FLIGHT” INSTRUMENTS – AS ABOVE/optional colour LEDS extra From £ 850.00

ALUMINIUM STALK ENDS (PAIR) £45.00

S/S HANDBRAKE HANDLE COVER £40.00

HARDTOP, HOOD AND TONNEAU’S / WET WEATHER GEAR Lead time 8 weeks

HOOD, TONNEAU AND SIDE SCREENS FITTED £1575.00

LE MANS STYLE HARD TOP WITH SIDE SCREENS & HEATED REAR SCREEN (Fully £3250.00
fitted, trimmed and painted to match your car) (stripes extra)

INTERIOR PACKAGES Lead time 6 weeks

SEAT SHELLS WITH STUDS FOR HEAD RESTS – ( PAIR)- NOT TRIMMED £175.00

STANDARD INTERIOR PACKAGE – Leather- seats, dash, door panels, gear lever gaiter, £1895.00
handbrake gaiter, seatbelt top covers, piped tunnel carpet and BLACK carpet for interior of
car, back bulkhead and boot + carpet glue.

DELUXE INTERIOR PACKAGE – AS ABOVE – But includes rear bulkhead cover in £2195.00
leather.

FUEL PIPE COVER FOR BOOT (GLASS FIBRE) £15.00

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BONNET & BOOT RUBBER (7M) £42.00

DOOR TRIM (2.5M) £18.00

LS3 ENGINE SYSTEM – VARIOUS PARTS

LS3 HOSE PACKAGE £155.00

LS3 AIR INTAKE PIPE £175.00

LS3 EXHAUST LINK PIPE £162.00

LS3 AIR FILTER £100.00

LS3 OR LS7 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS/HEADERS (AK MANUFACTURED) From £995.00

LS3 HEADER TANK £300.00

LS3 WASHER BOTTLE £230.00

LS3 THROTTLE CABLE £40.00

LS3 STAINLESS BOTTOM WATER HOSE £80.00

LS POWER STEERING SYSTEM £695.00

AK COMPREHENSIVE PACKAGES: ALL POA

1. DONOR PARTS PACK- Includes Recon axles, BMW steering column, XJS
Handbrake, Rover Servo & Master Cylinder

2. BRAKE, FUEL & CLUTCH PACK – Includes Master cylinder c/w integral
reservoir & adjustable clevice pin, brake pipe and fittings, fuel line +
optional LS fuel pump

3. SCREEN & BRIGHTWORK PACK – Includes screen and escutcheons,

centre stay, wind wings, sun visors, filler cap and flange + optional nudge
bars, over riders or jacklifters.

4. DOORS, BONNET AND BOOT PACK – Includes door locks, bonnet and boot
handles and latches, boot hinge set, battery tray, boot fuel pipe cover

5. HEAT PACK - Includes heater, demit vents and moulded plastic inlets,
heater tube

6. LIGHTS & MIRROR PACK- Includes headlights & rims, indicators, stop tail
lights, side repeaters, fog light, reversing light, reflectors, number plate
light, wing mirrors and centre mirror

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7. DASH BOARD PACK – Includes ignition switch, savage switches, start
button, dash warning lights, usb point, cigarette lighter.

8. COCKPIT PACK – Includes seat belts, horn, handbrake handle, indicator

stalk ends, gear lever trim ring, steering wheel, steering wheel boss, seat
runners, immobiliser

9. BODY PARTS AND BADGES – Includes roll bar escutcheons, side front and
rear badges, side vents, exhaust escutcheons, door escutcheon, splitter
wings, lower body wings, round headrests, high level brake light, washer
jets, stoneguards

PRICES ARE CORRECT AT TIME OF PRINTING

ALL PRICES SHOWN ARE SUBJECT TO VAT

SEE OUR PARTS: [Link]

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22
 YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 1

BODY BOLT KIT

8 X M10 X 30 BOLTS AND WASHERS

4 X M10 X 30 + WASHERS AND NYLOCS

4 X M10 X 75 + WASHERS AND NYLOCS

2 X M8 X 75 + WASHERS AND NYLOCS

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 PREPARATION- CHAPTER 2

SAFETY………………….. There are many dangers in the workshop, we cannot stress

enough the need for safety, you need to be aware of the inherent hazards surrounding you
whilst building and stripping mechanical components and in using electrically operated power
tools.

REMEMBER…

DO DON`T
Use eye protection when using power tools, Attempt to lift heavy components without aid
and when welding or under the vehicle. always get help.

Keep loose clothing and long hair out Take short cuts to finish a job.
of the way of tools and moving parts.

Remove rings wristwatches and any- Use damaged or ill fitting tools which may
Thing that may get caught. slip and cause injury.

Ensure that jacking equipment/axle Leave tools or parts or oil and fuel spills
stands have sufficient load capacity. lying
Around always clean up.

If working alone get someone to check on you Allow children or pets near the vehicle whilst
periodically it is supported on jacks/stands, or whilst
using power tools/welding equipment

Make sure you have sufficient time to Smoke near inflammable chemicals
complete tasks

The completion of this project is more easily embarked upon if you use common sense when
applying safety procedures and cleanliness in the work area as part of your routine before
and after and during the build process each day.

GRP. Glass reinforced plastic (fibreglass) is a hazardous material and adequate precautions
should be taken in its use and preparation,

HAZARDS.

I. Dust in the air from filing, drilling, cutting and sanding.

II. Sharp edges and splinters.
III. Fumes from resin.

WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, FACEMASK and KEEP WORK AREA WELL

VENTILATED.
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 PREPARATION- CHAPTER 2
DUST. Can cause irritation to the eyes and skin, block nasal passages and cause
respiratory problems, clean all work area after working with GRP. ie after
sanding, cutting and drilling.

EYES. Wear protective eye glasses whilst carrying out operations with electrical tools,
such as grinding, drilling and sanding.

FIRE. The workshop will be full of combustible materials and the fire hazard cannot be
overstated, it is in your own interest to invest in a fire extinguisher and take
simple precautions to prevent the risk of fire.

I. NO SMOKING in the workshop.

II. ALL PETRO CHEMICALS stored in a steel locker/drawer
III. ELECTRICAL TOOLS unplugged and wire coiled neatly (trip hazard).
IV. RAGS AND PAINTBRUSHES used with chemicals (petrol/thinners) tidied away
so as not to be ignited by sparks from welding/grinding

SUPPORTING THE CAR. It cannot be stressed enough that the chassis/car is supported on
sturdy axle stands or ramps NEVER work on the vehicle only supported on a jack or
unsuitable items such as wooden blocks or bricks.

TOOLS………….
If you consider the outlay already on purchasing your AK, it is obviously worthwhile to invest
in adequate tools for the job in hand.

Depending on which Jaguar was donor vehicle early cars were imperial, later cars metric, you
will require :

SOCKET SET: 3/8in to 1 ¼ in AF. or 10mm to 32mm. ½ inch drive with long and short
extensions and universal/wobbly joint attachment. 3/8 inch and ¼ inch drive sets would also
be useful.

COMBINATION SPANNERS: 3/8 in to ¾ in AF. or 10mm to 19mm.s

SCREWDRIVERS: various sizes, flat bladed and crosshead/pozidrive.

MOLEGRIPS, ADJUSTABLE SPANNERS, ALLEN KEYS (hex wrenches) FILES,

HAMMER, RUBBER MALLET and HAND DRILL

PLIERS: Various long nose, square jaw and circlip pliers (for internal/external circlips)
wire strippers/crimpers, side cutters.

STANLEY KNIFE, SPIRIT LEVEL, VARIOUS SAWS (for metal and wood).

25
 PREPARATION- CHAPTER 2

ELECTRICAL TOOLS…. grinder, sander, drill and various bits.

MISCELLANEOUS…….. tape measure/ruler, spirit level, marker pens, masking tape.

SPECIAL TOOLS…… brake flaring tool

WORKSHOP/GARAGE.

Working on or around the vehicle requires space, a double garage is preferable but not
available to all, so consider your work area and storage facilities, room to lie on the floor and
the stripping down of donor parts and storage of same.

Keep the floor areas clean and tidy, so consider shelving for storage, various containers for
nuts/bolts/screws and all the other bits and pieces you will acquire during the build process.

Also consider storage of tools and availability, a workbench is a bonus but workmate will
suffice you will also need the use of a vice and electrical sockets.

Invest in a FIRE EXTINGUISHER a fire blanket and a bucket of sand, you may need them!

THINK CLEAN
THINK TIDY
THINK SAFE

IT IS ALSO ADVISABLE TO SECURE YOUR WORKSHOP. YOUR PROJECT IS VERY

VALUABLE AS ARE THE TOOLS TO BUILD IT. MANY SPECIALIST KIT CAR
INSURERS OFFER A BUILD UP INSURANCE TO COVER YOUR CAR WHILST YOU
BUILD.

With all this in place you are now ready to embark on your project.

26
 CHASSIS/BODY – CHAPTER 3

CHASSIS SUPPORT/PREPARATION……

The chassis /bodyshell is received with the body temporarily fitted to the body, it is advisable
at this stage before removal of the bodyshell to mark the exposed chassis rails in the engine bay
with a piece of chalk, or to make a template of the engine bay area as this will assist in the
positioning / fitting of brake lines and fuel lines.

You will have also receive other items necessary for your build, namely nudge bar brackets,
shortened wishbones, roll bar brackets, various nuts and bolts for body to chassis fitment.

A full list can be seen in Chapter 1 -YOUR AK 427.

SUPPORTING CHASSIS.

The chassis needs to be on level ground, supported on axle stands and at a height to enable
getting underneath, to enable the correct set-up of the suspension components the chassis will
need to be level front to rear and side to side.

BODYSHELL STORAGE…..
Removing the body from the chassis will require the help of up to four able bodied people as
the bodyshell is heavy, store the body away unless you are dressing out the engine bay and/or
you are using a coloured gel coat and are preparing it yourself.
Also some items that will need to be fitted to bodyshell before refitting to chassis, such as pedal
box and heater assembly.

IMPORTANT NOTE RE: BODY STORAGE. ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE
BODY FROM THE CHASSIS IT NEEDS TO BE STORED ON A LEVEL SURFACE
WITH THE BOOT AREA SUPPORTED, TO ASSIST IN THIS YOU WILL FIND
WATCHING CLOSELY THE DOOR GAPS AND MAINTAINING THE GAP THAT
WAS APPARENT WHEN MOUNTED ON THE CHASSIS.

27
28
 RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION- CHAPTER 4

THE INFORMATION ON STRIP DOWN & OVERHAUL OF

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS INTENDED AS GUIDANCE
ONLY, YOU MUST USE THE RELEVANT WORKSHOP
MANUAL AS THE PRIME REFERENCE

GENERAL INFORMATION:

DONOR VEHICLE.

The chassis of your AK has been designed to work with the suspension components and
running gear from the XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguar, post 1974 series 2 or 3 models.

SELECTION.

The purchase of a complete Jaguar donor vehicle is necessary as you will require the log book
(V5) from the vehicle, although it is possible to obtain parts required from vehicle dismantlers
and purchase a scrap Jaguar for its logbook.

When selecting your donor vehicle, it is in your interest to select as low a mileage Jaguar or one
that you have inspected the suspension components to ascertain the amount of refurbishment
required, it is also important to select a vehicle with the ventilated disc and four piston caliper
set-up as this is superior to the earlier solid disc and three piston caliper arrangement on
earlier cars.

: IMPORTANT NOTE :
YOU MUST USE THE FRONT VENTILATED DISC
AND FOUR POT BRAKE CALIPER SETUP, THIS IS
FOR SAFETY AND SUPERIOR BRAKE EFFICIENCY

The suspension components are mounted in subframe assemblies, you need to remove these
from the donor vehicle first, then remove the suspension components and brake components
from subframes, rusted nuts and bolts are best soaked overnight if possible with penetrating
oil or similar to aid the strip down procedure, wire brushing around nuts bolts and threads
will aid removal and make the task a lot easier.

29
 RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION- CHAPTER 4

FRONT SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION.

Work on one side at a time, begin with the removal of the brake calipers and discs, you will
need coil spring compressor for next step, removal of coil spring,

:WARNING:
THE FRONT SPRINGS ARE UNDER A GREAT DEAL OF TENSION
UNTIL THE PRESSURE IS RELIEVED HANDLE WITH CARE AS
THIS EXERCISE CAN BE DANGEROUS

After removal of the six retaining bolts holding spring platform to lower wishbone remove the
spring, undo nuts securing upper and lower ball joints separate from stub axle carrier and
remove carrier. Remove both wishbones; the upper wishbone is in two halves; also note
carefully the position and number of camber shims for replacement during rebuild.

Repeat procedure for the other side.

Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing
surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated,

Make a list of parts that will need replacement.

You will not require the following parts: dustshield / steering arm / shock absorbers / anti roll
bar / subframe. refer to diagram front suspension, as some of the above parts are AK
replacement items.

When reconditioning/rebuilding the front suspension, it is advisable to renew as many of the

items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn and need
replacement.

ie: upper and lower ball joints / bearings and races / bushes /new ventilated discs / refurbished
exchange calipers.

30
 RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION- CHAPTER 4

REAR SUSPENSION STRIPPING/PREPARATION.

Remove the suspension components from the subframe first, this will involve the removal of
the tie plate which is under the final drive housing and ties the subframe together, the bolts
securing this plate are invariably rusty, the six bolts into the subframe halves can be chiselled
or ground off, the bolts which fix the plate to the final drive housing need to be unscrewed as
once the final drive is placed into the AK chassis a metal plate is fixed to the underside of the
final drive housing to protect fuel line which runs under the housing.

NOTE: remove the top centre bushes from the rear shock absorbers, you will
require them for fitment of the front shock absorbers when rebuilding.

Keep the shims from drive shafts to disc, as these are required for camber set-up, and the
shims from the inner pivot mounting.

The driveshaft universal joints will need to be removed and the driveshaft flange and splined
yoke kept, the driveshafts are returned to AK for shortened items along with the wishbones.

: PLEASE NOTE
AK WILL SUPPLY YOU WITH SHORTENED REAR WISHBONES
AND DRIVESHAFTS ON AN EXCHANGE BASIS.

The bolt and bush holding the original pressed steel radius arm in position are also required
for fitment of radius arms supplied by AK, you will notice the bolt has half of the hexagonal
head removed; this is so it will pass the shock absorber flange, retain this bolt and bush.

Make a list of parts that will need replacement.

You will not require the following parts: radius arms / shock absorbers / coil springs /
subframe. When reconditioning/rebuilding the rear suspension, it is advisable to renew as
many of the items listed below as possible for your own safety, they are in all likelihood worn
and need replacement.

ie: driveshaft UJs / Lower wishbone needle rollers / rear discs / hub carrier bearings /
refurbished exchange calipers.

Drain gear oil from final drive/differential.

The final drive /differential examine for any pinion backlash, renew the two driveshaft output
seals and the front input seal (there is no need to dismantle the differential to do this).

31
 RUNNING GEAR/SUSPENSION- CHAPTER 4

Clean all components with paraffin and wire brush ready for painting, do not paint bearing
surfaces, use an enamel or hammerite or have parts powder coated.

READY TO REBUILD

With all donor parts refurbished and necessary components replaced with new items, along
with the exchange driveshafts and wishbones from AK, you should also have purchased the six
coil over shocks required and can now rebuild the front and rear suspension assemblies and fit
them to the AK chassis.

32
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER 5

: IMPORTANT :
THE INFORMATION REGARDING REBUILDING AND REFURBISHMENT OF
SUSPENSION COMPONENTS IS FOR GUIDANCE ONLY, YOU MUST REFER
TO THE RELEVANT JAGUAR WORKSHOP MANUAL AS THE MAIN
REFERENCE FOR THE REBUILDING PROCESS AND TORQUE SETTINGS

FRONT SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING- XJ6/XJS

PARTS REQUIRED ……. refer to diagram for AK front suspension.

Upper wishbone / wishbone pivot shaft / Camber shims.

Upper and lower wishbone bushes.
Lower wishbone / Lower wishbone pivot shaft.
Upper ball joint / distance piece / castor control shims.
Lower ball joint.
Stub axle carrier / stub axle.
Wheel hubs.
Wheel bearings / bearing races / seals.
Ventilated discs
Brake callipers (4 piston type)
Track rod ends (for steering rack, AK supplied part).
Steering arms ( AK supplied part).
Mounting plate for shocks (AK supplied part).
Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK).
All nuts / bushes / washers.
Locking wire.
Shock absorber bushes from rear suspension.

REBUILD / FITTING -XJ6/XJS

Fit the two upper wishbone arms to the upper pivot shaft using the required bushes and
washers.

Fit top/upper ball joint between the wishbone arms using the castor control shims, start with
three between front wishbone arm and ball joint casting and distance piece (this is a temporary
set-up, castor will/may be adjusted later with car at ride height, they must also be fitted to
avoid distortion of bushes at pivot shaft). (figs 5.1 / 5.2)

33
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

(fig 5.1)

34
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

fig 5.2)
Fit complete upper wishbone to AK chassis at the mounting point toward front of chassis into
the bolt holes provided.

Fit lower wishbone arm to chassis mounting point (these are handed, check and fit to correct
side), (lower balljoint hole cranked forward).
Fit bottom/lower ball joint to stub axle/hub carrier, which in turn is then placed between upper
and lower wishbones (remember to use nyloc locking nuts on ball joint threads).

Assemble coil-over shock using coil springs and damper, using the bushes removed from the
rear shocks during dismantling, place into the mounting eyes of shock absorber which can then
be attached to the upper shock mounting on the AK chassis, extend shock assembly through
lower wishbone and attach lower shock mounting to coil-over shock mounting plate, this can
then be attached with four bolts to the underside of lower wishbone, ( NOTE: fit so adjusting
screw on shock absorber is accessible when vehicle is on road wheels).

Assemble ventilated disc to hub, tighten bolts to disc diagonally, torque bolts to specified
setting in workshop manual, fit complete hub/disc assembly to stub axle (refer to workshop
manual re; procedure for adjustment) remember to fit split pin to castellated locking washer.
Next the brake caliper and steering arms (note; bolts thru caliper and steering arms need to be
wire locked).
Repeat procedure for other side.

Fit AK power steering rack onto brackets & connect to steering arms. Dependant on your
engine & pump set up & fit hoses and clip into place.

35
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

: IMPORTANT :
EXCEPT FROM THOSE ALREADY MENTIONED ABOVE, ALL RELEVANT
TORQUE SETTINGS FOR FRONT SUSPENSION SHOULD BE DONE WITH
CAR ON ITS ROAD WHEELS, AND SHOULD BE DONE AGAIN AFTER CAR
HAS DONE 300 to 500 MILES.

REAR SUSPENSION / REBUILD AND FITTING- XJ6/XJS.

PARTS REQUIRED ……. Refer to diagram AK rear suspension.

Differential (new pinion seal and output shaft seals fitted).

Differential to chassis mounting bracket (AK supplied part).
Inner pivot mounting / wishbone spacer tube / shims.
Inner pivot (fulcrum) shaft.
Wishbone (shortened exchange item from AK ).
Wishbone needle roller bearings and seals.
Driveshaft (shortened exchange item from AK).
Driveshaft yoke and flange.
Driveshaft universal joints.
Hub carrier and hubs (rebuilt, refer to jaguar workshop manual).
Hub carrier bearings and seals.
Outer pivot (fulcrum) shaft.
Shims (camber control).
Brake discs (solid).
Brake calipers.
Pivot shaft for coil over shocks.
Coil-over shock absorbers (purchased from AK).
All nuts / bolts / washers.
Grease nipples.
Locking wire.

36
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

REBUILDING / FITTING- XJ6/XJS.

When fitting the rear suspension and differential it is more appropriate to part assemble the
unit first before fitting to the AK chassis

It is important to note the rear brake discs need to run centrally through the brake calipers,
this can be achieved by the use of alignment shims between the differential output flange and
the inner mounting face of the brake disc, a trial fit is necessary and is achieved by temporarily
fitting and removing brake caliper and brake disc and packing with alignment shims until the
brake disc runs centrally through the brake caliper, once this has been achieved the brake
caliper can be permanently fastened into position, (remembering to wire lock the bolts into
position).

37
 (fig 5.4)

38
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Fit inner pivot mounting bracket to differential also with required shims between mounting
bracket and differential casing, wire lock bolts into place. Fit distance/spacer tube into
mounting bracket; (fig 5.5)

(fig 5.5)

At this point fit assembly into the AK chassis, lift into place with hydraulic jack and secure
using four bolts removed during stripdown, these are wire locked into place after full rear
suspension system is installed but before the bodyshell is put on as access is difficult afterward.

Installation of the wishbone can now be done after first assembling the pivot bearing assembly
into it; (fig 5.6)

(fig 5.6)
The wishbone mates to the inner pivot mounting bracket using pivot shafts and differential to
chassis mounting bracket ( AK supplied part; figs 5.4 / 5.7) you may have to loosen the four
bolts at top mounting of differential as some adjustment to align everything is in order to allow
the pivot shaft to pass through, secure into place with nyloc self locking nuts re-tighten
differential top mounting four bolts and wirelock into place.

39
(fig 5.7)

40
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Camber shims (which have been saved from stripping rear suspension) will now need to be
inserted between the outside face of the brake disc before fitting the driveshafts and driveshafts
secured to the disc/differential output flange mounting bolts with new nyloc self locking nuts.

Hub carrier assembly can now be put into position on wishbone outer pivot using nyloc self
locking nuts on outer pivot shaft, hub carrier assembly can be pivoted upward and splined
yoke from drive shaft inserted, torque driveshaft locknut to the specified torque.

41
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Next fit a pair of assembled coil-over shocks to each side of the suspension assembly insert
pivot shaft through shock lower mounting and wishbone securing both sides with appropriate
washer and nyloc lock nuts, support wishbone assembly with hydraulic jack to attach shock
upper mounting to chassis, once again insert pivot shaft and secure with appropriate washers
and nyloc lock nuts, ( NOTE: fit coil over shock so the adjusting screws are accessible when
vehicle is on road wheels, facing toward differential or front and rear of vehicle respectively,
this is to enable adjustment of shock absorbers)

SUSPENSION SETUP- XJ6/XJS

INFORMATION:

The adjustment of the Jaguar suspension as used on the AK 427 is enabled by the use of metal
shims, the process is referred to in the Jaguar workshop manual, the instructions as to set-up
as contained in this section are specific to your AK 427.

All adjustments/settings to the front and rear suspension are to be carried out with the chassis
completely levelled fore and aft and side to side.

In order to make the adjustments the coil over shock absorbers are not in place/removed if
they have been fitted and in the case of the rear suspension the radius arm is not place/ remove
if fitted.

A template for a gauge to assist in set-up is available from AK (A copy of this camber guage is
in your build envelope pack).

42
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

REAR SUSPENSION:

SETTING/ADJUSTMENT- XJ6/XJS

To set the camber on the rear suspension you will need to raise the rear hub carrier with the
aid of a hydraulic jack (shocks and radius arm removed), lay a straight edge along the top
surface of the chassis where the roll bar attachment points are, raise hub carrier and using a
ruler / measure the distance between the top of the hub carrier and the upper surface this
needs to be 150mm. (fig 5.9)

(fig 5.9)

Raise or lower the hub carrier until this is achieved. Place a spirit level or the gauge against the
face of the hub, (fig 5.10) at the correct setting this needs to be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative
camber, to adjust this measurement shims need to be inserted between the the drive-shaft
flange and the brake disc/diff output flange, using two nuts on the bolts which hold the
driveshaft to the disc / diff output flange screw these down on the threads pulling driveshaft
closer to the disc until the desired measurement is achieved at the hub face,

43
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

(fig 5.10)

The gauge needs to be reading 0 degrees (zero) or ¼ degrees negative camber, there should
now be a gap between driveshaft flange and disc in which shims can be inserted to assess the
required amount, it is advisable to add one extra to account for compression of shims when
nuts are fully tightened, with the required amount of shims determined remove nuts pull away
driveshaft place shims against disc face refit driveshaft and fully tighten nyloc lock nuts,
recheck hub face measurement for 0 (zero) to ¼ negative camber , refit coil overshocks and
radius arm, repeat procedure for other side.

FRONT SUSPENSION
SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT
CAMBER- XJ6/XJS

Camber to the front suspension is already built into the AK427 chassis, however check this
once full assembly is in place (minus the coil over shocks) by use of the gauge or spirit level on
the hub face as per rear suspension, the setting should be 0 degrees to ¼ degrees negative
camber, if any adjustment is required this is done by inserting dependant on donor vehicle, 3
to 4 shims of the correct thickness between the upper wishbone pivot/fulcrum shaft and the
wishbone attachment point on the AK427 chassis.

44
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

SETTING/ ADJUSTMENT
CASTOR- XJ6/XJS

To set the castor angle to the front suspension is accomplished with the use of shims between
the mating faces of the top balljoint and the upper wishbone with track rod ends removed,
raise the wishbones with hydraulic jack so they run level/horizontal slightly lower than level,
(fig 5.11)

(fig 5.11)

Turn hub carrier /disc assembly so it runs parallel to the chassis, (fig 5.12)

(fig 5.12)

45
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Place the gauge against the straight edge of the two caliper mounting points on the hub carrier
assembly, with the gauge in place 3 to 4 shims will need to be inserted at the top balljoint/
wishbone mating face to achieve a castor angle of 5 ½ to 6 degrees of castor. (fig 5.14)

(fig 5.14)

Repeat process for the other side, re-attach track rod ends and locknuts ensuring equal thread
both sides, toe in can be adjusted temporarily at this stage by raising wishbones hub assembly
as before until both sides are level/horizontal and adjusting track rod ends equally until both
disc/hub assemblies run straight ahead.

AK usually set toe in at 4 mm or parallel, use of a string line between the rear of the disc over
to the rear of the other disc, then checking with same string line at the front of the discs until
an equal measurement is achieved. Tighten locknuts and lower suspension.

Once wheels are fitted and the car is sitting on terra firma check all nuts and tighten to
specified torque settings as stated in the workshop manual.

46
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

BRAKE LINES/HOSES

INFORMATION:

Reference to the workshop manual is essential when reconditioning all brake components, if in
any doubt consult qualified specialist help.

DUE TO THE PERFORMANCE CAPABILITY OF YOUR AK

IT IS ESSENTIALTHE BRAKING SYSTEM IS ABLE TO
FULFILL THE TASK AND THE DEMANDS MADE OF IT.

At AK we use and recommend the use of new and reconditioned brake components, DO NOT
just use the brake components as they came off the donor, considerable wear will almost
definitely have been incurred.

PARTS REQUIRED.

Dual circuit master cylinder/servo (Rover 25)

Ventilated front discs (jaguar)
Solid rear discs (jaguar)
Brake calipers (jaguar)
Brake pipe 3/16 copper approx 6 metres
Goodrich braided front hoses (AK supply part)
Brake unions male/female
3 way connector brake unions x2

METRIC AND IMPERIAL BRAKE COMPONENTS/UNIONS WERE

USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JAGUAR CARS, SERIES ONE
AND EARLY SERIES TWO CARS WERE UNF, LATER CARS USED
METRIC, DO NOT INTERCHANGE IMPERIAL AND METRIC UNIONS.

The brake lines run along the inner face of the in board offside chassis rail that runs front to
rear to the rear calipers and across the inner face of the front lower side to side chassis rail for
the front calipers (fig 5.15/16/17)

Attachment to the chassis is enabled with rubber lined p-clips or plastic push in clips, these
must be evenly spaced and not more than twelve inches/ 300 mm apart, IVA requirement.

(REFER TO IVA MANUAL FOR ANY CHANGES AND INFORMATION).

47
CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

48
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Use the correct pipe-bending tool and cutting and flaring tool. Using a piece of string to
measure approximate length of brake pipe needed cut to length remembering to file away any
burrs, Place appropriate fitting/union over brake pipe and make appropriate flare dependant
on fitting type. When bending pipe using correct tool take care to form bends of an even radius
DO NOT KINK, DISCARD IF KINKED.

If a template was made of engine bay chassis rails as suggested in chassis support/preparation
the next stage is made a lot easier.

FITTING BRAKE LINES.

Starting at the offside chassis rail

Fit 3 way union to inner face of chassis rail just below the bracket for brake hose to front
caliper from the left fitting of 3-way connector run brake pipe from this along front chassis rail
inner face and up to bracket/brake hose attachment point on nearside of chassis, run brake
pipe from top opening of 3-way connector to bracket/brake hose fitting above on offside chassis
rail, further run third brake pipe from right opening on 3-way connector around chassis rail
along top of triangulated chassis rail upper surface for approx 6 inches and form a bend
upwards for further attachment later after body shell is fitted. (fig 5.15)

(fig 5.15)

49
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

Next looking toward the rear of the chassis from the front to the top face of the rear chassis rail
on left side of cut out for differential to propshaft fit the second 3-way connector with it`s top
opening toward the differential casing and side openings parallel to the chassis rail, from top
opening run pipe up to left caliper (still looking toward rear of chassis) from right hand
opening run pipe along top of chassis rail bend pipe following half moon cut out, once back on
the top face of chassis rail and in line with fitting on right caliper bend pipe up to caliper. (fig
5.16) from the left hand opening pipe follows along top of rail then forward down to the inner
face of offside chassis rail toward front of chassis rising on to top of rail in engine bay area of
chassis and as per front fitting along triangulated chassis rail and upward ready to connect to
master cylinder after fitment of body

(fig 5.16)

50
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

(fig 5.17)

DO NOT run brake lines under chassis rail so as to prevent damage in the event of the vehicle
grounding out ie: sleeping policeman

IMPORTANT:
WHEN BRAKING SYSTEM IS FULLY INSTALLED IT MUST BE TESTED
FOR LEAKS AT ALL CONNECTIONS WHILST APPLYING FULL
PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL.

51
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

FUEL TANK

INFORMATION

AK can supply a stainless steel fuel tank complete with sender unit to the correct dimensions,
However, if you wish to undertake the fabrication of your own tank AK will provide the
relevant dimensions.

If fabricating your own tank note position of attachment points to chassis

FITTING

The AK fuel tank is mounted to the underside of the rear chassis frame, lift into place with
hydraulic jack or a friend. Then drill and tap into the underside of the chassis M8, fix with 5 x
M8 x 30 set bolts (fig 5.18)

(fig 5.18)

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 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

FUEL PUMP AND FUEL LINES

INFORMATION

Dependant on fuel system ie: carburettor or fuel injection the type of pump and where to
mount will need to be taken into account. With fuel injected systems it is important to mount
the fuel pump as near to the fuel tank as possible and to use a high pressure fuel filter,
preferably the one that came with fuel injection system, use hose specific to fuel injection. We
recommend you fit the fuel injection pump on the passenger side inner chassis rail, by the
propshaft.

For ROVER V8 engines, which use an electric pump this is usually mounted to the nearside
inner chassis rail between the cut out in the rail and the backbone brace, the fuel line runs
along the INNER FACE of this chassis rail also (NOT UNDERNEATH ) (fig’s 5.17 /19).

NOTE: We recommend using a BOSCH 044 fuel pump for fuel injected.

Most engine suppliers will recommend you the correct electric fuel pump for their engines.

(fig 5.19)

At the rear of the chassis the fuel pipe passes over the chassis rail (fig 5.20) and then under the
differential before being fitted with a fuel filter before entering the fuel tank outlet.

53
 CHASSIS BUILD -CHAPTER FIVE

(fig 5.20)

A protective plate will need to be fitted to the underside of the differential to protect the fuel
line in the event of the vehicle grounding.

54
ENGINE/GEARBOX/EXHAUST/PROPSHAFT- CHAPTER 6
GENERAL INFORMATION.

Your chassis is now ready to accept the installation of your choice of engine and gearbox,
although it is possible to fit said items once the bodyshell has been introduced to the chassis, it
is preferable to install the engine and gearbox now, which in turn eases the installation of all of
the necessary ancillary components, when ordering your chassis you will have specified engine
and gearbox choice, the chassis will have the necessary mounting points, however the original
mounts/hardware from whichever engine and gearbox you have chosen will be required, as
will the various ancillary components ie: starter motor / alternator.

FITTING

Installation can be undertaken with the engine/gearbox attached or separately, in either case it
is wise to invest in the hire of an engine hoist/cherry picker for this operation, it is not safe or
healthy to try this operation using manual labour. If the gearbox is already filled with oil fit
something over the output shaft to stop oil leaking all over your garage/workshop floor, as the
engine/gearbox need to tilt toward the rear to go in.

Care should be taken when lowering engine/gearbox combination into chassis, check for
clearance and be careful not to scratch paintwork. Once engine mounts are aligned, support
rear of gearbox with a block of wood or hydraulic jack whilst fitting the gearbox mounting and
tightening bolts (tighten to torque settings specified in owners workshop manual for engine and
gearbox of your choice).

Install the starter motor and the alternator ready for the next stage as you will need to check
clearances for the headers/ exhaust manifolds.

EXHAUST

Consideration as to the exhaust system should also be made at this point, ie: underfloor system
or sidepipes and the headers / exhaust manifold, original or fabricated by yourself or an
aftermarket supplier, AK can fabricate these items for you.

:IMPORTANT NOTE:

CLEARANCE OF STEERING COLUMN EXTENSION / FOOTWELLS AND

STARTER MOTOR SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN ASSESSING
THE MEASUREMENT AND INSTALLATION OF EXHAUST HEADERS/SYSTEM

55
ENGINE/GEARBOX/EXHAUST/PROPSHAFT- CHAPTER 6

UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM.

If fabricating your own headers/manifolds or using aftermarket fabrication company, in order

to ascertain the clearance for headers/exhaust manifolds/system you will need to place
bodyshell onto chassis after installation of the engine to take measurements, remove bodyshell
to fabricate the Header/manifolds

SIDEPIPES

As with underfloor system (above) but as well as clearance in the engine bay you will also need
to determine the exit points in the bodyshell for the sidepipes and cut out the required
bodywork.

PROPSHAFT

If using any of the various American gearboxes you will need to retain and use the complete
sliding yoke assembly from the gearbox, which will then need to be fitted to the Jaguar
propshaft.

If using the rover gearbox you can use the Rover or Jaguar propshaft.

Whichever you choose, in all cases the propshaft will require shortening and the required
output shaft fitting, this job is best suited to your local propshaft specialist who will also
balance your newly shortened propshaft and refurbish any worn UJs.

We use a company called Bailey Morris- See our suggested supplier list.

EXHAUST ESCUTCHEONS – OPTIONAL FITTING

Place escutcheon over side pipe prior to fitting, checking it will have clearance around the
pipes. Fit side pipe to header. We recommend you drill and rivet with 3.2mm x 120mm rivets
in each corner of the escutcheon, check clearance once fitted.

56
 .
COOLING SYSTEM - CHAPTER 7.

INFORMATION:

The cooling system incorporates a crossflow radiator (AK SUPPLIED) a header tank which
uses a pressurised cap and the system should have a thermostat with which to control the
temperature at the same to as allowing the engine to reach its optimum operating temperature.

The coolant circulation is from a pulley driven impeller at the front of the engine driven by the
crankshaft pulley .

The cooling system is fitted to the chassis prior to the introduction of the bodyshell, dependant
on your engine choice positioning/sizes of the various hoses will vary but some parts remain
common to all installations.

Remember to use anti-freeze in the cooling system as this inhibits corrosion as well as
providing frost protection.

PARTS REQUIRED ……

Top and bottom radiator frame (AK supplied as part of build)

Radiator (AK SUPPLIED)
Header tank (AK can supply a stainless steel one)
Cooling fan and Adjustable thermostatic switch (AK SUPPLIED)
Temperature sender and thermostat (specific to engine)
Hoses (main top and bottom hoses and heater hoses)
Hose clips various sizes.
Plastic quick fit mounting kit for fans to radiator (or fabricate own bracketry)

FITTING

Introduce the lower radiator frame to lower mounting at front of main chassis rails, use the 4
attachment bolts supplied, 2 each side to fasten frame into place.

Bring upper radiator frame into place and using supplied bolts also attach to the mounting
points on chassis located top surface of cross box section at front of chassis. fig 7.1.

At this point bring radiator into place using locating pegs at the bottom of the radiator place
the original radiator rubber mounts (or rubber washers) onto the locating pegs and locate pegs
into holes in lower radiator frame. Now attach the upper frame to top of radiator using bolts
through the upper frame into original mounting holes at top of radiator.

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 COOLING SYSTEM - CHAPTER 7.

(fig 7.1)

HEADER TANK

Header tank is mounted onto the same box section as the upper radiator frame, after first
placing strips of masking tape along top rail position header tank on top of rail and mark the
attachment holes onto the masking tape , drill and tap these holes remove the tape and replace
header tank and bolt into place .

RADIATOR FAN/s

Choice of fan/s used is up to the customer and specific to there engine needs, ensure adequate
cooling is provided for your engine , either two 10 inch fans or one 16 inch usually will suffice
bracketry can be fabricated by the customer or the use of plastic quick fit mounts are a reliable
and trusted method , take care not to damage the core when mounting fans to the radiator .

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 COOLING SYSTEM - CHAPTER 7.

THERMOSTATIC SWITCH

Usually supplied with its own fitting instructions, the capillary that senses the water
temperature needs to be placed into the top radiator hose were it fits to the top radiator inlet,
the capillary connecting tube should then be coiled (helps absorb vibration) the length of this
determines the placement of the adjustable thermostatic switch, AK `s method is to use a
stainless steel plate across the upper radiator mounting frame and then fit the adjustable
thermostatic switch into this.

If using the LS 3 engine, you will use the ECU to control the radiator fan so the above switch is
not required.

HOSES

Finally fit the coolant hose top and bottom check for fouling on any moving part, ensure all
hose clips are fastened securely, leave extra length on heater hoses until after body is fitted and
these can then be trimmed and attached to the heater inlet and outlets, run a thin bead of
silicone sealant around heater outlets before attaching hoses enabling a greater seal.

Once all is fully connected fill with water and antifreeze and check for any leaks and once you
are able to run the engine and the wiring to the electric fans is connected and working check
for airlocks , run engine up to temperature and adjust thermostatic switch until fans switch on.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

INFORMATION.

The AK body is supplied with the cockpit (seat tub) / boot tub/ front & rear wheel arches
bonded into the shell as an integral part of the whole assembly, doors and bonnet are pre-fitted
and the bonnet and boot lid and doors all are double skinned, a scuttle hoop is mounted within
the seat tub and spans across the seat tub under the dashboard it is bonded into place and once
the body shell is fitted it is through bolted onto chassis.

Most customers will have had the body/chassis sent to the paint shop of their choice prior to
building, if this is the case it is preferable for all holes to have been cut in the body for the
ancillary parts beforehand.

If body was supplied in gel coat (coloured) finish the preparation will require the removal of
the body mould flash lines and many hours of rubbing down and polishing, it is preferable to
cut all body ancillary holes before embarking on this task.

PREPARATION

Some preparation of the body is required prior to fitting to the rolling chassis, an access hole
for the fuel filler inlet and sender unit will need to be cut (fig 8.1), the fitting of the pedal box
and heater box is also a necessity (referred to in there specific chapters).

A trial fit is always recommended to check for clearance as the body once finally attached with
a flexible sealant is difficult and messy to remove, also making sure there will be no trapped
fuel/brake lines, the gearshift hole can be marked and cut and dependant on where the fuel
pump is mounted (if it is across the rear chassis rails behind the differential) partial removal of
some of the boot floor forward of tank will also be required).

Cover inlet to fuel tank to prevent any ingress of dirt and/or dust

Removal of the bonnet is beneficial before body fitment and will need to be done, also enlisting
the assistance of 3 to 4 helpers will aid and ease the task.

IMPORTANT NOTE
THE BODY SHELL IS HEAVY AND FOR SAFETY REASONS AND
TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY IT IS
NECESSARY TO ENSURE THERE ARE ENOUGH BODIES TO LIFT
AND MANOUVER THE BODY SHALL INTO POSITION
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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

(fig 8.1)

FITTING BODY

Once you are satisfied with the preparation of the body and ensured all access holes are cut
and the required parts attached (pedal box / heater) and having undergone a trial fit to
establish clearance, you can now fit the body to the chassis.

It is necessary to run a bead of sealant along the chassis rails were the seat tub sits and also
across chassis cross member were roll bar and seat belt brackets attach and around fuel tank
support rails, first clean the chassis where sealant is to be laid then run a ½ inch bead of
sealant along chassis rails as seen in diagram, (fig 8.2).

With the aid of helpers lift body over chassis and making sure inner front wings clear the front
supports lower front of chassis over them, once cleared lower rear of body onto chassis (as the
body was originally pre-fitted at the AK factory it has already been aligned with the chassis) it
should just sit in place as body can only fit into previously pre-fitted position, if it fails to seat
completely on chassis check for obstructions (why a trial fit is necessary).

Once in firmly seated onto chassis the attachment bolts supplied with your kit can be used to
bolt the body into place, several of the attachment points in the seat tub are threaded for bolts
provided. (fig 8.3)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

The scuttle hoop however bolted right through chassis rail through its attachment footplate
with the 4 supplied nuts & bolts, 2 each side. (fig 8.3)

The front inner wings to the support brackets use 4 nuts & bolts supplied, 2 each side. Rear of
chassis is bolted through boot floor with 2 supplied nuts & bolts. (fig 8.4)

Refitting of the bonnet can now take place, and if required the front support attachments
loosened to aid adjustment once done tighten down fully.

Note: Please ensure you grind off a small amount of power coating on each fixing point as this
will ensure a good earth for your wiring system.

62
 fig.(8.2)

63
( fig 8.3)

( fig 8.4)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

FITTING OUT THE BODY

ROLL BAR and SEAT BELT BRACKETS

INFORMATION

The seatbelt and roll bar brackets supplied with your kit are supplied in 3 or 4 parts depending
on your choice of roll bar whether it be single hoop drivers side/ twin hoops both sides or the 3
legged roll bar variety.

The brackets are attached to the chassis in the boot tub sandwiching the fibreglass body
between them and the chassis, there function as the top seat belt mount determines that they
are attached and constructed to a safety standard and it is important to bolt them in place
securely using nyloc locking nuts.

PARTS REQUIRED

Seat belt/roll bar brackets (left and right side)

Roll bar support bracket
Nuts and bolts

( fig 8.5)

FITTING

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

The holes for affixing the brackets in place in the boot tub are pre-drilled at AK but may still
need opening out slightly to enable easy insertion of the bolts, the seatbelt/roll bar brackets are
sided and are positioned in the boot with the roll bar support tube outermost when looking into
the boot, (fig 8.5 /6).

First fit will be temporary as you need to mark and make the holes for the seatbelt attachment
eyebolt to attach to, the hole is made under the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub, to
do this place the right hand seat belt bracket in place on the raised platform in the boot, insert
the bolts through the brackets base plate and the fibreglass skin into the chassis below, from
underneath the vehicle put on at least two of the nuts and tighten so as to hold bracket in place
whilst marking the positions of the seatbelt eyelet bolts.

( fig 8.6)

Using the bracket as the template and using a marker pen draw around the top of it onto the
rear boot wall (cockpit rear wall), at the top of the bracket is the pre drilled and threaded
attachment plate for the eyebolt, you need to mark where this is and approximate where to
make the hole, (fig 8.7)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
Remove the bracket and if you drill a hole in the rear wall through to the cockpit just under
the scuttle lip it will give you and approximation of where to make the hole for the seat belt
under the scuttle lip, drill the hole under the scuttle lip with a small drill bit to see if it is in line
with the attachment plate on top of the bracket, if it is drill large hole and open out with a file
until the eyebolt can be inserted and screwed into the bracket, once this has been achieved the
seatbelt/roll bar bracket can be bolted down fully onto the chassis.

( fig 8.7)
Repeat for the passenger side.

The roll bar support bracket is a simple matter of bolting into place after checking the
alignment of the chassis mounting holes through the fibreglass skin. (fig 8.5 /6)

ROLL BAR/s

INFORMATION

The roll bar for the AK is made of stainless steel tube bent to form a hoop, where as this was a
support and safety feature in the original, for our purposes the roll bar is purely cosmetic, one
or two roll bars can be fitted as is your preference.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

FITTING

HOLES FOR ROLL BAR ARE NOW PRE-CUT AT THE FACTORY FOR ALL NEW KITS.
The following applies to older kits only (find the approximate centre of where the roll bar
passes through the body into the boot and fits into the roll bar supports, to do this follow a
vertical line straight up from the centre of the roll bar support bracket to the underside of the
body and drill a small hole, then gradually open the hole out with a round file until the roll bar
can be inserted and locates with the roll bar support brackets, take your time and open out the
holes for the roll bar to pass through as this task will be done by eye and self-judgement).
The roll bar will need some of its length removing to obtain the correct height (using centre
line through roll bar measure approximately 10 ½ to 11 inches from top of the body to the top
of the roll bar).

Before final fitting of roll bar, slide the escutcheons over the bar refit the roll bar and slide the
escutcheons down onto the body, mark and drill holes to fit escutcheons to the body, a small
amount of sealant underneath will prevent water ingress.

WINDSCREEN

INFORMATION

The windscreen is purchased as a complete assembly, furnished with glass pre-fitted to the
frame and held in place by a rubber seal, support legs are to be found at either side of the
windscreen with which to attach it to the vehicle, there is also a rubber seal along the bottom
edge of the windscreen where the frame makes contact with the body, the windscreen is fitted
to the scuttle and is supported/attached by the support legs through holes in the body to the
scuttle hoop.

When the windscreen is fitted it is done so with a pre-determined rake, this is achieved by
measuring and cutting a piece of timber (2x1”) and 36 inches long and placing between rear of
screen top frame and the centre of the scuttle lip at the rear of the cockpit/seat tub.

PARTS REQUIRED

Windscreen
Support stays x2
Escutcheons x2
Bolts x4
Sealant

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
FITTING

Usually best performed with the aid of a helper as the windscreen is heavy and awkward
(avoid damage to paint/bodywork)

The rubber seal at the base of the screen will be such that the lip is facing forward of the
windscreen.

With the support stays fitted to windscreen it can be lowered into place on the scuttle forward
of the cockpit/seat tub, the two support stays are inserted through the holes pre-cut at AK, as
screen is lowered pull rubber seal forwards toward front of vehicle and as windscreen weight is
lowered onto seal it will stay facing forward providing a tighter seal.

( fig 8.8)

Once the screen is in place put the piece of timber cut to 36 inches length between top
windscreen frame and scuttle lip at rear of cockpit, using G clamps or similar clamp support
legs to scuttle frame under dashboard scuttle. (fig 8.8 /8.10)

Once positioned with the correct rake adjustment and securely clamped to the scuttle hoop,
now drill two holes through support stays into scuttle frame (cut thread with a tap in the
scuttle frame holes to accept bolts),

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

(fig 8.10)

Bolt the windscreen into place and remove piece of timber used for measuring windscreen rake
and G clamps, the screws attaching windscreen to support stays can be removed now and
windscreen removed from between stays to allow the escutcheon plates to be pushed down the
support stays to cover the body holes were support stays pass through, it is advisable to put
some sealant in the support stay hole before fixing escutcheon into place to prevent the ingress
of water at this point, re-attach windscreen remembering to pull rubber seal at base of
windscreen forward as it meets up with body.

DOORS

INFORMATION

The doors on the AK are double skinned and pre-fitted by AK at the factory, they are hung on
two hinges which are attached to the scuttle hoop, two bolts to each hinge fasten to the inner
door skin and allow some adjustment. the mounting plate for the door locks is already
incorporated inside the door skin for the door locks

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

Some gapping of the doors may be required achieved by filing the door edge to achieve an even
gap.

DOOR ESCUTCHEONS

If fitting door escutcheons you to take the doors off the hinges, place the escutcheons over the
hinges and rivet into place with 3 x 2mm x 10mm rivets. You will have to trim down the inner
edge of the escutcheon plate when fitting.

DOOR LOCKS

INFORMATION

The door locks used on your AK are required to comply with the regulations set out in the IVA
manual, the locks will have an anti burst double latch incorporated in there action as a safety
measure to avoid the door coming open without proper operation of the lever.

The lock usually used for your AK has these requirements as well as maintaining a classic
appearance preferable for your Cobra, the door locking system comes in two parts comprising
of the door lock and the latch/striker.

Locks fit to the inner door skin where a strengthened mounting plate is already sandwiched
into the inner skin to attach the lock too.

The latch/striker attaches to the door frame upright and is attached to a mounting
bracket/plate supplied with your kit from AK, there is a small cut out were the latch/striker is
to be positioned.

PARTS REQUIRED….

Door locks x2
Door latch/striker x2
Latch/striker plate x2 (AK supplied)
Timber (for packing out around door frame and support of latch/striker plate)
P38 plastic filler/resin

FITTING
In order to correctly ascertain the position for the door latch it is necessary to decide on door
panels and if the lock will sit on the door panel or in a cut-out so the lock sits directly onto the
door skin (this will determine were the latch/striker needs to be positioned relative to the lock).

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

If the door lock is to sit on the door panel (AK preference) then a spacer or the door panel will
need to be used to position lock onto the door, remembering that the thickness of the panel will
be plywood panel the padding and the leather covering, this will determine the thickness of the
spacer if not using the covered door panel as the spacer.

(fig 8.11)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
Before commencing you will need to remove the escutcheon/cover from the door lock to reveal
the four countersunk mounting holes of the lock.

With the spacer/door panel fitted to the door, tape the door into its shut position with some
masking tape, temporarily fit the latch/striker to its mounting plate then fit latch/striker into
the door lock, offer both up to the door with the door in its closed position, the latch/striker has
a cut-out in the door frame where it is positioned and the holes for the lock are pre-cut and
threaded, (8.11).

Once satisfied with the positioning of the lock and latch, mark through the four holes of the
lock through the panel/spacer, remove the lock assembly and latch, drill holes through door
panel /spacer in line with the pre-drilled door lock holes

Replace door panel and fit lock assembly to the door.

With the door lock now attached bring door into closed position once again to position the
latch, with the latch in position in the lock (ensure it is fully engaged) attach the latch mounting
plate to the latch and door frame, once satisfied with its position fix into place using P38 and
leave to set.

Whilst the P38 sets you will now need to cut the timber to act as support for the latch mounting
plate and also for supports for the inner cockpit panel (fig 8.12).

(fig 8.12)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
The wooden supports once cut to shape (ensuring a tight fit behind the door latch plate) can be
secured into position with P38 also, allow the P38 to cure before attempting to open/close the
door.

SCREEN WASHERS
INFORMATION
The screen wash system in your AK is operated by the wiper/washer stalk on the right of the
steering column, the system comprises of a washer fluid/container to hold the water a 12-volt
pump/motor and two washer jets, the pump/motor is mounted to your washer fluid container it
is part of IVA regulations and compulsory in the UK that a windscreen washer system is fitted
and working to your vehicle, the washer jets also need to comply with the regulations re: the
curvature and height, the fluid container as to its capacity ie: minimum of 1 litre.

PARTS REQUIRED
Washer bottle/container (AK can supply a stainless steel item if required)
Washer jets x 2
In line non-return valve
Windscreen washer tubing
T-piece

FITTING

After deciding on where you want to mount your washer fluid container (AK fit theirs to the
passenger foot well that runs into the transmission tunnel, (fig 8.12) this also provides as point
were the wiring can pass through the bulkhead to provided the 12 volt current to the motor/
pump) fit container securely to position fit washer motor/pump to container.

(fig 8.12)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
Position and drill holes for washer jets, take a centre line up the bonnet to the windscreen and
measure out (7 inches 180mm) in either direction, once washer jets are fitted cut and fit tubing
remembering to use t-piece to split to the two washer jets and non return valve, to assist in
fitting tubing over connections heat the ends in some hot water.

Test system once the wiring is connected.

BOOT LID

A trial fit of the boot lid is necessary to adjust for an even gap all around, (fit the d-section
rubber to the boot lid opening first and ensure that the boot sits level with the bodywork) you
may need to file down the lip to achieve this. To gap the boot lid evenly all around file down the
edge until this is achieved.

BOOT HINGES

You will note that on the underside of the boot lid there are two flat areas where the boot
hinges are positioned, transfer an approximate centre line from these to the outer/upper
surface of the boot lid, then mark on the outer/upper surface of the boot lid the centre line of
the boot and then measure an equal distance from the line to the approximate hinge positions
transferred originally to the boot lid surface, now with the hinge positions marked an equal
distance from the centre line (9 inches- 230mm),(fig 8.14) you can position and fit the hinges,
mask off the area with tape, and it is usually better to fit the hinge to the scuttle first then the
boot lid.

(fig 8.14)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
BOOT LOCK

Using the centre line of the boot lid you will need to drill a ¾ inch hole in the outer skin for the
handle boss to pass through (you can use the lock gasket to mark this out) place masking tape
over the area to mark the position and before drilling, also a ½ inch hole in the inner skin for
the square shaft to pass through. (fig 8.15).

There are small locating tabs in the escutcheon/baseplate of lock which will require small
notches to be cut/filed into the lock hole you cut, this helps to locate the lock into position.

( fig 8.15)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
To ascertain the position up the centre line for the hole, trial fit the lock assembly to the access
hole in the boot lid, (the access hole may need opening out/modification) ensure the square hole
in the lock for the shaft to pass through is in line with the centre line of the boot lid, which will
then line up with the holes for the boot handle square shaft.

Once positioned correctly and lock and handle holes drill holes for fixing screws and fix into
place, remember to refit the gasket to the boot handle.

BONNET

The bonnet on your AK has been pre-fitted originally at the factory, however you will have
removed it during the build, replacement is just a reversal of the removal procedure but you
will need to before fitting the d-section rubber seal to the bonnet opening file or cut down the
lip that the seal attaches to, trial and guesswork will be required to gauge the correct height
that will allow the bonnet to sit level with the bodywork.

BONNET LOCK

Fit the bonnet locks so the square rod comes in the centre of the rib on the underside of the
bonnet (approx. 10”) out from the centre line of the bonnet. If you fit one side first you can
then make a paper template to replicate it in the same position on the opposite side.

(fig 8.16)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
Open the holes out gradually until lock fits (lock is positioned so the escutcheon/baseplate runs
across the bonnet from side to side), there are small locating tabs in the escutceon/baseplate of
lock which will require small notches to be cut/filed into the lock holes you cut, this helps to
locate the lock into position.

Drill holes for fixing screws and remembering to refit the gasket, fix lock into position.

From the underside of the bonnet you will need to fit the locking catches to the square shafts of
the bonnet locks (these are locked in place with small allen screws) (fig 8.16)

The square shaft will need shortening once the latch position has been found.

In order for the locks to full engage securely it will be necessary to fit locking plates (fabricate
with some stainless steel) these bolted to the bulkhead under the scuttle in the engine bay and
provide a stronger closure/attachment for the lock. (fig 8.17).

Note: Gas rams/ Bonnet and boot stays for bonnet & boot need to be fitted at this point before
paint. See Chapter 13, section in AK Packages for fitting instructions.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

FUEL FILLER

The driver’s side rear wing has a recess for the petrol filler (this allows AK/s to comply with
IVA regulations even with the flip top Aston filler cap).

PARTS REQUIRED

Fuel filler cap and flange (Aston quick release type)

Fuel hose (wire reinforced type)
Breather tube/hose
Hose clips

FITTING

Offer up the gasket from the fuel filler cap to the recess in the drivers side wing, centralise the
gasket the mark the inner circumference with a marker pen, if you have a hole saw large
enough this can be used, alternatively drill several pilot holes inside the circumference line
previously marked, using a saw cut between the holes inside of the line, using a half round file
open up the hole to the line, offer up the fuel filler to check for clearance, once filler inserts into
hole the filler can be fitted to the recess after marking and drilling the fixing holes using the
filler flange as the template for the fixing holes.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

(fig 8.18)
:NOTE:
IF USING THE ASTON FILLER CAP ENSURE IT IS FULLY
SCREWED DOWN ONTO THE THREADED FLANGE BEFORE
FITTING, IT HAS TO BE POSITIONED AT AN ANGLE FACING
OUTWARD AND TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE: SEE
DIAGRAM.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

Before drilling the fixing holes in the recess first screw the Aston filler cap tightly down onto
the threaded flange so the cap can be positioned correctly into the recess in relation to the rear
wing (the cap won’t open fully if positioned incorrectly) (fig 8.19).

(fig 8.19)

The wire reinforced fuel filler hose needs to pass through the boot/wheel arch wall (drivers side
rear) from the boot space into the wheel arch were it connects to the filler flange under the
wing using hose clip (ensure hose clip is fully tight). (fig 8.18).

Repeat with the fuel tank neck fit wire reinforced fuel hose and attach with hose clip, the
smaller vent pipe is a breather fit smaller bore hose and pass through hole in boot wall to
wheel arch with the fuel filler hose and fix it to it with a cable tie.

LIGHTS

The AK 427 light positions are moulded into the body shell except for side repeater/indicators
and rear fog lamp, it is mandatory for any motor vehicle used on the public highway to be
fitted with the appropriate lighting.

To comply with IVA regulations lighting has to be E-marked and also positioned at a specific
height on the vehicle and have minimum angles of visibility.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

As most of the lighting positions are moulded into the body shell the position requirement is
adhered to, all is necessary is that you purchase the correct E-marked lighting.
Below is a list of the compulsory lighting required for a motor vehicle to comply with IVA
regulations.

▪ Front position side lamps x2

▪ Dipped beam headlight x2
▪ Main beam headlight x2
▪ Direction indicators x4
▪ Hazard warning signal lamps (as above: indicator lamps)
▪ Rear position tail lamp x2
▪ Stop lamp x2
▪ Side repeater lamp x2
▪ Rear registration plate lamp x1
▪ Rear fog light x1
▪ Rear retro reflectors. x2
▪ Rear Reverse light x 1

As can be seen from the list the main lighting positions are moulded on the body shell, the
builder needs to be aware that the rear indicators are positioned above the brake/sidelights
and side repeaters just above and in front of the side vent in the front wings.

The fog lamp and reverse light can normally be positioned on the rear valance under the boot
lid, the reflectors on the body shell just under the rear stop lights or can be incorporated into
the rear nudge bar.
(fig 8.20)

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

( fig 8.20)

The body mouldings are a guide as to the light fitting, the individual lights should be used to
mark out the precise position, drill pilot holes and open out with a file accordingly trial fitting
the lights as you enlarge the hole.

OVERRIDERS/NUDGEBARS

INFORMATION

Mounting brackets are supplied to fit the front overriders to the chassis, the new type fits
directly to front inner wings. Older type the brackets attach to the chassis mounting either side
of the radiator ,when positioned they angle downwards from the chassis, the rear mounting
points are in the boot just inside the boot shut to the left and right metal brackets have been
fibreglassed into the boot floor this is also the case under the boot floor behind the rear
valance.

The overrider’s use threaded stud to fix to the mounting bracket (most builders fit stainless
steel or chromed tubing over this as a sleeve for the cosmetic appearance).

The builder can choose to just fit overrider`s or fit overrider`s and nudge bar.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

If fitting both they will need to be drilled and bolted together and the threaded stud fitted to
the overrider`s (make sure this is of sufficient length to reach the mounting brackets through
the body.

PARTS REQUIRED

Overrider’s x4
Nudgebars x2 front and rear
Threaded stud x2 36 inches long
Stainless steel or chrome tube to sleeve over the stud
Nuts and washers for threaded stud

FITTING

First temporarily fit the overrider brackets to the chassis (they will need holes drilling in them
to accept the overrider studding).

Cover the area either side of the grill/radiator opening with masking tape, with the stud and
sleeve fitted to the overrider`s, offer up to the body so as to mark holes onto the masking tape
were the sleeved stud will need to pass through this is achieved with trial and judgement (there
are no fixed points to measure).

Where the holes need to be made for the sleeved stud to pass through bodyshell you will find
due to the contour of the body this dictates holes will not be a perfect circle, but slightly oval,
drill a pilot hole and gradually open out with a round file continually offering up the
overriders nudge bars until the desired size and position is achieved.

Once the sleeved stud can pass through the bodyshell push in until the stud touches the
mounting brackets, keep checking alignment and mark on the brackets were the stud touches
and then remove overriders/nudgebar and also the mounting brackets, drill the required holes
into the brackets for the threaded stud, refit and once again offer up the overriders/nudgebar.

NEW STYLE BRACKET post August 2002

Bolts directly to inner wings and consist of just the 90-degree angle steel. See (fig 8.21).

You can now bolt it into position, (nuts will need to be used both sides of the stud/bracket to
clamp assembly securely). (fig 8.21)

JACK LIFTERS

Front and rear jacklifters use the same fitting format as the nudge bars & overiders, although
if fitting them you will have to take front & rear jacklifters off the the IVA test as they will fail.

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

(fig 8.21)

SPLITTER WINGS/IVA RADIATOR APERTURE DEFLECTOR.

As a requirement of IVA regulations the front opening to the radiator is fitted with a deflector
wing/bar to prevent injury to persons in the event of an accident, it is a requirement that the
aperture is not large enough to allow the IVA testers knee form sphere to pass through, the AK
deflector when positioned in the centre of the opening prevents this and also complies with the
IVA regulation. AK offer either a single or a triple splitter wing, both are fitted in the same
way.

FITTING

Brackets will need to be fabricated to attach the wing/deflector to the overider brackets or an
alternative is to use 90-degree angle brackets and attach/fix the deflector to the inner wings
using bolts or rivets through the deflector and the inner wings, (fig 8.22).

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 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8

(fig 8.22)

SEATBELTS
The seatbelts for the AK are the 3 point harness variety, and are attached to the chassis rails
where they meet the floor toward the rear in the seat tub for the lower attachments, the upper
attachment is under the scuttle to the previously fitted eyebolt. (fig 8.7 / 8.23)

IMPORTANT:
THE CORRECT FITTING OF SEATBELTS MUST BE ADHERED TO, THE SAFE
FITTING IS IMPERATIVE. FOLLOW THE SEATBELT MANUFACTURERS
INSTRUCTIONS. THE USE OF HIGH TENSILE
86 BOLTS TO ANCHOR THE
SEATBELTS IS REQUIRED BY LAW.
 BODYSHELL/FITTING- CHAPTER 8
NOTE: AK use the Willians Supersport SHORT TAIL 3 x 4 2”/2” Harness’s.

The lower seatbelt mounts are threaded to accept the fixing bolts, the fixing bolts required are
specific to the fitment of seatbelts and are of high tensile steel usually but not always these bolts
will be marked with 8.8.

The threads for the fixing bolts may need chasing out with a tap of the correct thread to ease
the fastening of the bolts. (7/16 UNF)

NOSE VENTS

Both the alloy & glass fibre nose vents need to be bonded into place using P38 body filler. Fit
one at a time taking care to line them up correctly. Once all 3 have been fitted apply more P38
to the underside to ensure they are bonded well. The glass fibre vents need to be fitted prior to
paint and the alloy ones after paint>

LOWER BODY WINGS

The lower body wings need to be fitted before paint, we recommend using 6 x M5 x 30mm
stainless cap head bolts for each side. Working from the centre out drill and fix into place.

Note the wings cannot be finally fitted until after the IVA test as the radius fails the test.

SIDE VENTS

Side vents are best fitted after paint. Screw the vents to the two pieces of wood top & bottom
approximately 20mm thick, offer into place to check fitment. Apply P38 body filler to the wood
and place into position. Hold in place until body filler has set.

87
( fig 8.23)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9
INFORMATION

The pedal box and heater box are both fitted to the bulkhead from inside the engine bay, there
attachment however is from inside the cockpit, although covered in this chapter, both of these
items are best fitted to the bodyshell prior to fitting the body to the chassis.

The scuttle hoop under the dashboard area of the cockpit has the attachment points/brackets
for the steering column and wiper motor pre-fitted although the steering column bracket is pre
- drilled the wiper motor bracket the flat steel plate welded to scuttle on the right is not
predrilled this in order to allow positioning/adjustment of wiper motor.

The handbrake attaches to the drivers side outer chassis rail in the cockpit area using the
supplied bracket (this will need drilling to attach lever to it and also to attach to chassis).

PEDAL BOX ASSEMBLY

INFORMATION

The Pedal box fits down the footwell and locates with the pre drilled holes. If not already fitted
remember to fit the brake light switch also.

Fit the Rover 25 brake servo & master cylinder into the relevant holes.

You require a ¾” Girling clutch master cylinder with an integral reservoir and adjustable
clevis pin, these can be purchased from merlin Motorsport and fit into the relevant holes in the
bulkhead.

STEERING COLUMN

INFORMATION

The upper column bracket/attachment point is in the drivers side cockpit area and consists of
two brackets welded to the square tubing scuttle frame just to the right of the transmission
tunnel , also directly in line with the bracket/attachment point is a pre drilled hole about an
inch in diameter in the bulkhead/firewall to the left of the pedal box assembly, this is for the
splined end of the steering column to pass through to the lower steering column support .
The lower support bracket can be purchased from AK Sportscars.

BMW E34 – STEERING COLUMN MODIFICATION

You will find when trial fitting the BMW column that part of the black tin brackets fouls on
the scuttle hoop cross member. Mark this where it hits as you will now need to cut off the lower
part of this black bracket so it will clear the cross member allowing the two top mounts to bolt
up correctly. You can also remove all the wiring for the ignition and cut out the steering lock
pin.

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

PARTS REQUIRED

The BMW E34 steering column from your donor vehicle complete with upper attachment bolts
and adjustable tilt bracket, lower column support (bracket splined end passes through) and
wiring harness for wipers/lights and horn/washers.

FITTING

The BMW steering column is attached to the two attachment brackets using the existing rover
column attachment bolts , the splined end support passes through the hole in the bulkhead and
is supported using the AK column bush using the two holes in the bracket drill appropriate
holes in the bulkhead above and below the 1 inch hole the splined end of column passes
through. The supplied steering rack to column extension can now be fitted to the steering rack,
ensure the roadwheels point straight ahead and fit the extention with the longer end toward
steering rack fit the lower universal joint to steering rack aligning splines and pinch bolt with
groove in steering rack splined attachment point, repeat procedure for upper universal joint
making sure steering wheel if fitted is in straight ahead position.

STEERING WHEEL BOSS

Which ever steering wheel you choose to fir ( AK recommend Momo or the Mountney M range
wheels).

You will require a Momo steering boss (There are two boss’s available from Merlin
Motorsport a non airbag version ( code 2006) and also an airbag version). These are collapsible
bosses and required for the IVA test.

HANDBRAKE

INFORMATION

The AK supplied handbrake attachment bracket needs to be drilled to accept the XJS
handbrake lever, the triangular part of the bracket is drilled with three 8mm holes as per
diagram the uppermost hole for the central support bolt of handbrake lever and the two
attachment holes below to secure lever to bracket, the bracket also needs two holes in the
rectangular base drilling to attach to the chassis. (fig 9.2)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

(fig 9.2)

FITTING

The bracket is attached to the offside outer chassis rail just above the seat belt mounting bolt
hole there is already one hole drilled in the chassis for body to chassis attachment bolt, this can
be used as the rear attachment bolt to rear of the bracket, the hole toward front of bracket will
need to be drilled in chassis and thread cut to accept attachment bolt.

(fig 9.3)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9
The AK supplied handbrake cable will now require fitting, the adjustment end toward
calipers, a hole for the cable to pass through will need to be drilled in the rear of the cockpit
wall, pass the cable from under the offside/drivers rear wheel arch through the hole and attach
to the handbrake lever assembly, attach the adjustable end to the rear brake calipers, you will
also need to secure the cable outer to the underside of the wheel arch using a cable tie so it does
not foul on the rear wheel. (fig 9.4)

(fig 9.4)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

HEATING SYSTEM

INFORMATION

As with the pedal box it is preferable to fit the heater box to the body before fitting body to
chassis, as it is also attached from inside the engine bay.

The heating system consists of heater box and matrix salvaged from Volkswagen Polo MK 2,
two windscreen demister vents (it is a requirement of IVA regulations to be able to demist the
windscreen).

PARTS REQUIRED…….

Heater box complete with matrix from MK 2 polo.

Side entry heater vents 1 ½-inch outlet. x2 (plastic)
Heater ducting 1 ¾ inch I.D. 1 metre
Demister vent x 2 (chrome)
Heater/vent box (AK supplied)
Fresh air ports x 2 (to fit to AK heater vent box) (sink waste pipe can be used)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

FITTING

DO NOT REMOVE FLANGE (fig 9.5)

Where the heater box mates to the bulkhead DO NOT REMOVE the angled plastic flange
from the matrix/mounting face of the heater box case, (fig 9.5 is incorrect) this assembly can be
introduced to the bulkhead/firewall from inside the engine bay, it needs to be positioned
centrally on the angled face just above the transmission tunnel, mark around the heater box
with a marker pen, then put heater assembly to one side, the rectangular outline you have
marked now needs to be cut, an opening in the bulkhead now allows you to fit the heater lip
through the hole. (fig 9.6)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

(fig 9.6)

The heater box assembly is then held in place from inside the engine bay whilst from inside the
cockpit self tapping screws are inserted through the fibreglass into the plastic surround of the
heater box.

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9
HEATER VENT BOX

You will now need to make two holes in the fibreglass heater box distribution cover supplied
by AK on the upper face, using fresh air ports or plastic waste pipe (usually used under the
sink) make holes and fit to the heater vent box, then attach this box over the opening inside the
cockpit that you made for the heater box. ( fig 9.7)

There is a mating/attachment flange at the top of the heater/vent box for bolting/screwing into
the scuttle hoop, seal around the box with some form of sealant to prevent air leakage.
Next position and fit the demister vents to the top of the dashboard close enough to allow an
even coverage to allow the blown air to demist the windscreen (the positions are marked
approximately by AK before the body/chassis leaves the factory), slots will need to be cut in the
top of the scuttle/dash and fixing holes, using the demister vents as a template place masking
tape on the upper dash/scuttle where they are to be placed, mark the slot and fixing holes then
remove demister vent and drill and file slots for the air form heater/blower to pass through,
introduce the side entry vents to the underside of the scuttle/dash and using sealant/glue fix to
underside of slots then secure using nut and bolt fixing through the holes in the demister vent
through scuttle/dash into the side entry heater vents, finally cut the heater ducting to length
and fit to top of AK supplied heater box and to the side entry heater vents.

(fig 9.7)

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

NOTE DUE TO THE NEW IVA RULES YOU WILL NOW HAVE TO FIX A DISC ONTO
THE INLET SIDE OF THE HEATER MOTOR BLOCKING IT FROM DRAWING AIR.
THEN YOU NEED TO CUT AND 1 ½” HOLE THROUGH THE BULKHEAD INTO THE
COCKPIT AREA (BEHIND THE DASH).

YOU WILL THEN NEED TO USE SOME DUCTING PIPE PLACING IT INTO THE HOLE
CUT INTO THE BLANKING DISC GOING TO THE HOLE IN THE COCKPIT. THIS
THEN MEANS YOU WILL BE DRAWING AIR FROM THE COCKPIT AND NOT THE
ENGINE BAY.

WINDSCREEN WIPERS
INFORMATION

The wiper system for the AK 427 is NORMALLY a three blade system , the system is left hand
parking i.e: drivers side.

The system must be self-parking, perform a minimum 110 degree sweep of the windscreen,
have at least two speeds one of which performs a minimum of 45 cycles per minute to comply
with IVA regulations.

The amount of the sweep of the wiper system is determined by the wiper gear in the wiper
motor, the self-parking of the wipers when system is switched of is enabled by small plastic
ramp attached to the wiper gear, it is the position of this which determines which side wipers
park.

97
 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

(fig 9.8)

PARTS REQUIRED ……. AK can supply a complete Wiper Package for you.

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

Before fitting the wiper motor to your AK the wiper gear will need to be installed in the wiper
motor (if not already pre-fitted) , on the wiper gear there is a small raised plastic ramp which
can be position in varying places on the gear this determines the self park of wipers when
switched off (ie : system will complete its sweep of windscreen and park /rest wipers at base of
screen on drivers side) , position the ramp so when wipers are switched off the rack is in the
fully extended position out of the motor , this will ensure that with the rack running through
the wheel boxes rack and tube positioned at the bottom (fig 9.8 /9.10) the wiper arms will park
on the right hand/drivers side .

(fig 9.9)

FITTING

Cover the scuttle in front of the windscreen with masking tape using the measurements in
diagram , place the wiper escutcheon / bezel and gasket with the rear edge up against the
rubber seal at base of windscreen , (position can be checked by placing wiper blade and arm
over escutcheon / bezel to check wiper is in correct position in relation to screen) mark the
centre using the gasket as a template then drill smaller hole than required through the scuttle
at an angle equivalent to that of the escutcheon / bezel , open out the hole with a round file
maintaining the angle until the wheel box will fit through from underneath the scuttle (ie: in
the cockpit) fit spacer tube to wheel box ( rubber hose can be used , cut to length and angle).

Temporarily fit wheel boxes in place, wheel boxes should be positioned with rack at the bottom
so rack will run underneath .

99
 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

(fig 9.10)

WIPER MOTOR

Fit the rack to the wiper motor but do not fit the tubing at this time , the wiper motor complete
with rack can be mounted to the plate provided in the upper right hand corner of the scuttle
hoop in the cockpit just to the right of the steering column mounting.

Separate the backplate from wheel boxes and run rack through them ensuring wheel boxes are
positioned so rack is at the bottom replace covers and fasten. Offer wiper motor up to
mounting plate complete with rubber base plate and clamp / bracket ensuring there are no
kinks in the rack and it has a smooth run, whilst holding motor in position mark holes for the
attachment bolts, remove motor and drill required holes, further offer up wiper motor and bolt
into place.

The outer tubing for the rack will need to be cut to length, determine the length of each piece
by measuring from wiper motor to wheel box and then from wheel box to wheel box where
rack runs through allow extra ½ inch as the tube needs to be flared to enable clamping into
place by wheel box, ensure tube runs smoothly without any sharp bends or kinks, thoroughly
lubricate the wiper rack with grease then insert it through the tubes clamping them in wheel
boxes as you go.

100
 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9
INSTRUMENT PANEL & DASHBOARD

The instrument panel supplied with your AK is constructed of GRP/fibreglass and moulded to
fit the bodyshell under the dash/scuttle.

It is complete with an open glovebox, it is also necessary to cut out the steering column
aperture, several threaded studs are glassed into the back of the instrument panel with which
to attach to the mounting lip provided under the dash/scuttle for that purpose, some
preparation is required before trimming the instrument panel with your desired upholstery,
namely the apertures for the various instruments and switchgear.

PREPARATION

Using the various instruments/ switches and warning lights mark out the positions and sizes for
the apertures to be cut, you can use the relevant hole saws to aid this task or alternatively drill
pilot holes around the inside of the marked apertures then cut away the excess using a half
round file to smooth the circular apertures and flat file for the switches.

Usually the chosen covering for your instrument panel will be folded into the apertures which
will require that the apertures are made slightly larger to accommodate the instruments/
switches as well as the chosen covering.

Once the instrument panel has been upholstered to your requirements the various instruments
and switches can be re-fitted and the wiring to said items embarked upon.

:NOTE:
THE APERTURES WILL NEED TO BE LARGER THAN THE INSTRUMENTS
AND SWITCHES BY UP TO 2mm TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE THICKNESS
OF THE COVERING MATERIAL

FITTING

To fit the instrument panel to the bodyshell is just a case of offering it up to the small lip under
the dash/scuttle and fastening into place with the supplied butterfly nuts and washers, the
lower part of the instrument panel can either be attached using self tapping screws through the
side panels into the transmission tunnel or fixing brackets sourced by the builder to the panels
with which to attach to the transmission tunnel. (9.11)

During the fitting of various other items and fitting and checking wiring the instrument panel
will be in and out several times, it is wise to delay permanent fitting until all necessary work
has been carried out.

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 COCKPIT COMPONENTS/MECHANICAL- CHAPTER 9

(fig 9.11)

INSTRUMENTS and SWITCHGEAR

Most builders will fit a full complement of gauges/instruments, but the requirements of the law
and IVA regulations dictate specific instruments and warning lights are compulsory.

▪ Speedometer
▪ Brake warning lamp
▪ Fog light warning lamp
▪ Full beam warning lamp
▪ Indicator warning lamp
▪ Hazard warning indication lamp

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 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

WIRING LOOM

INFORMATION

Electrical installation in the AK is a 12 volt negative earth, comprising of a 12volt battery

which is to be located in the boot offside recess, an alternator for charging said battery and
pre-engaged starter motor, the battery supplies the current to the ignition system lighting and
other electrical circuits and provides reserves of electricity when the current consumed by the
electrical system exceeds that be produced by the charging system (alternator).

With this in mind it is extremely important that the wiring system (loom) can cope with
demands put on it and it is adequately earthed, started motors require a lot current and put
great demands on the system and it is necessary to use the correct gauge and amperage of
wiring throughout.

IT IS A REQUIREMENT OF IVA REGULATIONS THAT THERE IS

ADEQUATE ELECTRICAL SUPPRESSION to the IGNITION SYSTEM.
AND THAT ALL CABLES ARE SECURED TO THE BODY/CHASSIS

It is possible to construct the wiring harness yourself from scratch but unless you are a skilled
auto electrician it can be seen as quite a daunting task.

The wiring loom supplied by AK is purpose built for your needs and complete with harnesses
and plugs to directly plug into your wiper/washer/lights and indicator harness on the BMW
steering column, it is complete with relay box and relays, fuse box and fuses, voltage stabilizer
and there are separate connectors and harness for connection to the dashboard instruments for
which you make up your own wiring to clocks/instruments.

The loom is complete with wiring diagram and wiring identification list, there is sufficient
length of wire for all connections.

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 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

PARTS REQUIRED

AK Wiring loom
Battery 12 volt negative earth
Positive battery cable (red) (15 feet approx) 135amp due to long run of cable
Negative battery cable (black)
Positive battery terminal/connector
Negative battery terminal/connector
Battery cut-off switch/key
Instruments (speedometer/rev counter/volt meter/ fuel gauge/temp gauge etc)
Rocker Switches (fog lights/heater/hazard warning etc) (must comply with SVA)
Warning lights (ignition/brake fluid level/indicators/full beam)
Cable ties /cable clips
Spade connectors (male and female)
Bullet connectors
Rubber grommets
Loom tape

FITTING
Lay the full loom out on the floor, although the loom is supplied as one piece it is separated into
legs for different areas of the car, using the loom layout diagram and wires list, prepare the
loom for fitting to the car by firstly identifying the different legs and label them with masking
tape, as the wires are colour coded for each individual item the legs can be identified this way.

LEG 1 ENGINE BAY

LEG 2 OFF-SIDE FRONT LOOM
LEG 3 OFF-SIDE TO REAR INTO BOOT
LEG 4 INSIDE COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop)
LEG 5 NEARSIDE FRONT LOOM
LEG 6 COCKPIT (across scuttle hoop)
LEG 7 STEERING COLUMN

Once you have identified and labelled the individual legs of the loom, proceed to label the
individual wires as to their various connections using the wires list supplied with the loom and
supplied in this chapter for your perusal along with loom layout diagram.

With the loom completely labelled place LEG 4/6/7 into the cockpit across in front of scuttle
hoop.

At the top of each of the foot wells behind the scuttle hoop top left of passenger foot well and
top right of drivers foot well are access holes for the loom to pass through,
LEG 2 passes through top right/drivers side foot well access hole to engine bay,
LEG 5 runs across the scuttle hoop in the cockpit before then passing through access hole top
left/ passenger side foot well into engine bay,

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 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

LEG 1 runs around the raised part of the floor pan drivers side across front of drivers foot
well below pedal box and through access hole into engine bay (fit rubber grommet over cable
where it passes through to engine bay.

For LEG 3 to pass into the boot an access hole needs to be made in the rear bulkhead run LEG
3 along under drivers side door and up rear bulkhead make a hole for loom to pass through
into wheel arch space and from wheel arch into boot space.

LEG 6 must be secured to the scuttle hoop as it passes from driver`s side over to passenger
side.
You will find that the fuse box relay connector and plugs to dashboard harness will all be on/in
passenger side, the fuse box and relays need to be mounted up under the scuttle and secured
remembering you will at times need access to the fuses and relays, a steel plate can be
fabricated to bolt to the scuttle for the fuse box and relays to be mounted on, ( fig 10.2).

105
 (fig10.1)

106
 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

(fig 10.2)

Once all individual legs of loom are to their respective areas the various connections can be
made to each component, there are earth connections at various parts of the loom (BROWN
wire) it is important a good clean connection is made for these to the chassis, there is one as
part of LEG 6 attach this to the scuttle hoop after first drilling and tapping a hole to attach it.

The earth on LEG 5 and LEG 2 can be bolted to the chassis to body mounting under the front
wheel arches. Most components will require spade connectors however the connections to the
headlights will more than likely be bullet connectors, make sure all connections are secure and
spade connectors are covered with protective boot, spade connectors can be soldered if
required and wire connections covered with heat shrink, secure the loom using cable ties that
run under wheel arches were loom passes to front lights and ensure were wiring runs it is
secured to body or chassis, loose wires will chafe with the vibration and movement of the
vehicle leading to shorts in the electrical circuit and possibly to a fire.

107
 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

BATTERY AND CABLE

AK recommend using a Bosch 075 battery.

The positive (live/red) battery cable runs the length of the vehicle due to the battery being
mounted in the boot, as with all long runs of cable it is wise to use a higher amperage of cable
to avoid overheating of cable and current drop.
The cable passes through the hole at the foot of the driver’s foot well along with LEG 1 of the
wiring loom.

Ensure a rubber grommet is used where cables pass through bodywork, the battery cable runs
across foot well along the length of vehicle under the door frame up the rear bulkhead through
access hole made for LEG 3 of wiring loom here it passes under offside rear wheel arch were it
is secured with cable ties installed by AK then through into the boot area above recess at rear
of boot off side were the battery mounts.

(fig 10.3)

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 ELECTRICAL- CHAPTER 10

The battery cut off switch is bolted to the chassis and used as the earth/negative lead to the
battery, bolt bracket for switch to chassis using attachment bolt for boot floor to chassis next to
battery position, bolt battery cut-off key switch to bracket and negative/earth lead to switch
and battery, when you remove the key from the switch this separates the earth and cuts
current to the electrics. (fig 10.3)
Where the battery is mounted in the boot it is important that it is firmly secured using
retaining bracket or strap or a battery box can be utilized, ensure adequate ventilation if using
battery box. AK also offer a battery tray.

109
(fig 10.6)

110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
 COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY- CHAPTER 11
INFORMATION

This chapter covers the fitting of your interior carpet/ side panels/door panels seats and
dashboard, all these items the trim level is a matter up to the individuals choice, carpet sets can
be purchased from a professional carpet trimmer as can the trimming of the seats/door
panels/and dashboard be contracted out to an upholstery trimmer.

If the builder chooses to do this himself with a little care and forethought the task can be made
much easier.

The use of cardboard or paper templates to fashion up the door panel/dashboard material and
carpet will ensure a proper fit before cutting the material/carpet.

The time and care taken with this will determine the overall quality of the cars presentation.

CARPETS

The carpet for your AK will need to be cut to size and glued into place using upholstery/carpet
glue (sourced from your carpet supplier). Carpet and glue are included in AK Interior
Packages

The alternative is to get a carpet set made up by sourcing out to a qualified trimmer.

The diagram provided (fig 11.1) gives an idea as to the order it is best to fit the carpet into your
AK, cut templates if deemed necessary and mark onto carpet before cutting, check fit then
apply the glue to the area you are about to fit the piece of carpet and to the back of the carpet
and then give sufficient time for the glue to become almost dry as this will give a stronger bond.

Allow the carpet glue to dry sufficiently before fitting carpet finally to it, as it is a contact glue
be sure of your positioning. The same process is used when carpeting the boot tub also.

When carpeting the transmission tunnel the three pieces required will need to joined with trim
if required this can be sourced out to a qualified trimmer. The transmission tunnel cover is
included in both the standard and deluxe interior packages and the carpet pieces should be
sent to AK who will then get AK’s trimmer to bind the centre tunnel carpet for you.

CURVED CENTRE TUNNEL – OPTIONAL

If you opted for the curved tunnel this is fitted by placing it over your existing flat topped
tunnel and riveted into place using 3.2mm x 10mm rivets, then with P38 body filler blend the
edges.

NOTE
AK OFFER A FULL INTERIOR PACKAGE BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE
TEMPLATES AND CUT A ROLL OF CARPET TO SUIT!!
130
 COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY- CHAPTER 11

(fig 11.1)

131
 COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY- CHAPTER 11

INTERIOR SIDE PANELS

The interior side panels supplied with your kit are made of fibreglass and are handed for the
left and right sides of the cockpit/seat tub area (fig 11.2), they are screwed to the timber inserts
(put in place when the door locks were fitted) they are also held in place by the door opening
trim.

The trim panels are covered when you fit the carpet or can be carpeted before fitting inside the
cockpit.

A trial fit is recommended as the panels will require some trimming to obtain a good fit, you
will find the panels are stepped toward the front so as to fit around the scuttle hoop supports
(fig 11.2))

(fig 11.2)

DOOR CARDS

You will need to make two door cards cut to the shape of your door out of 3mm plywood. You
will need to cut a square section out of the plywood to allow for your door lock wedge. Along
the bottom edge of your door card you will need to cut it 4-5mm smaller & put a bevelled edge
on to allow for the door trim rubber.
You will then need to drill 6 or 7 10mm holes through the door card around the edges
approximately 10 – 15mm in. These will be to fit your green securing clips. (AK purchase these
clips from Woolies - 01778 347347 the code for the green clips is CLIP 260 and you will need
12/14 of them.)

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 COCKPIT/COMPONENTS UPHOLSTERY- CHAPTER 11

SEATS

The seats for your AK do not need to sit on runners but are fixed directly to the floor, because
they are of a fibreglass shell , four fixing nuts and bolts will be required to hold seat securely
drill through the seat base the carpet and the floor and insert bolts through the holes in the
seat base and carpet floor and using washers to spread the load and nyloc nuts on the bolts fix
the seats securely (you will need to get under the vehicle to tighten the four nuts).

DO NOT FIT YOUR AK SEATS ON RUNNERS BEFORE THE IVA TEST AS IT WILL
CAUSE IT TO FAIL

PARTS REQUIRED BY AK SPORTSCARS FROM YOU FOR US TO CREATE YOUR

INTERIOR PACKAGE:

DASHBOARD PRE FITTED INCLUDING STEERING COLUMN CUT OUT AND

INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES.

133
DOOR CARDS ( 3MM PLYWOOD) PRE FITTED AND CUT TI SUIT DOOR LOCKS
WITH GREEN CLIP HOLES

134
 FINISHING- CHAPTER 12
WHEELS AND TYRES

AK can supply wheels and tyres with the correct offset.

FOR 16 INCH WHEELS:

Tyre sizes

Front… 225-50-16 OR 225-55-16 Dependant on tyre manufacturer

Rear … 255-50-16

FOR 17 INCH WHEELS:

Tyre sizes

Front… 225-50-17

Rear…..255-45-17

FOR 18 INCH WHEELS:

Tyre sizes

Front… 225-45-18

Rear…..255-40-18

Check the tyre pressures are correct, the manufacturer may recommend lower pressure due to
the lower weight of the car.

Front… 20-22 lbs psi.

Rear… 22-24 lbs psi.

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 FINISHING- CHAPTER 12

SUSPENSION

The dampers are adjustable on the AK as is the spring setting, the dampers control the bound
and rebound which is adjusted by a knurled knob at the base of the damper body fully turn the
knurled knob toward the - minus then back toward the + plus, 7 clicks to start with and
further adjust to suit the ride you prefer after suspension has settled.
The spring platforms can be screwed up or down but initially after IVA they need to be set to
maintain a gap between the top of the tyre and wheel arch of 1 ½ inches 60 to 70 mm as they
will settle as you use the car and will need re-adjustment.

RIDE HEIGHT

The ride height will need adjusting during first usage several times as the suspension settles but
for the car to stay within the law when used on the public highway the front indicators should
be 350mm from the bottom of the indicator to the road surface.

TOE

The toe in/out on the front wheels needs to be set at 4 mm, your local garage or tyre fitters can
do this as can AK.

SPEEDOMETER

The speedometer calibration needs to set before the IVA test to comply with the regulations the
speedometer is allowed a maximum under reading of the speed of 20 percent, there can be no
over reading of the speed.

INDICATED SPEED [Link] SPEED

mph mph
35 26
40 30
45 35
50 39
55 44
60 48
65 53
70 58

RUNNING IN

After 500 miles it is important that all nuts and bolts are checked to make sure none have
become loosened.

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DOOR TRIM & BONNET & BOOT RUBBER

AK supply both the above parts. You will need 3 metres of door trim & 7 metres of bonnet &
boot rubber.

Bonnet and boot rubber will need fitting prior to paint. Door trim is fitted after carpeting.

FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR- OPTIONAL

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS:

1. REMOVE M10 X 75 BOLTS FROM SHOCK PLATES

2. FIT ANTI-ROLL PLATES WITH NEW M10 X 90 BOLTS MAKING SURE HOLE FOR BUSH IS
TOWARDS OUTSIDE OF CAR
3. FIT ANTI-ROLL DROP LINKS
4. LOCATE ANTI-ROLL BAR TO BOTH SIDE DROPLINKS USING 7/16 UNF BOLTS SUPPLIED
5. MAKE SURE CAR IS AT RIDE HEIGHT AND TIGHTEN UP ALL BOLTS
6. PUT GREEN BRACKETS ON ROLL BAR AND MARK THE 40 X 40 BOX
7. DRILL AND TAP REAR HOLE M6. DRILL STRAIGHT THROUGH BOX FOR FRONT BOLT
8. FINALLY BOLT UP GREEN BRACKETS

STONEGUARDS- OPTIONAL

AK supply alloy stoneguards these are fitted by placing into position then fix using the pre
drilled hole on the stoneguard. You will also need to fix using two 3.2mm x 10mm rivets on the
return lip one top and one bottom.

INDICATOR STALK ENDS- OPTIONAL

AK supply alloy stalk ends, you will first need to cut your black BMW plastic ends off. You
need to slice lecgth ways through the plastic this will then allow them to be pulled off. The AK
stalk ends are then simply fitted using glue (Araldite)

HANDBRAKE HANDLE- OPTIONAL

AK supply an alloy handbrake handle, you will need to firstly cut off the Jaguar XJS
handbrake handle black plastic cover as above. Then apply a small amount of glue (Araldite)
to handbrake and slide the alloy cover in place

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IMMOBILIZER

As AK’s do not use a steering lock you will need to fit an immobilizer to your car for IVA
testing (Insurance Companies also like this).

We recommend fitting the Stirling Excel immobilizer, these can be purchased on the internet
BUT any immobilizer will be fine for your IVA test.

VIN PLATE

AK supply you with a Chassis plate which needs to be fitted with either rivets or double sided
tape to the rear engine bay bulkhead, in a position where it is visable.

HOOD, TONNEAU AND HARDTOPS

All the above are only available factory fitted from AK and cannot be fitted until after your
IVA test as they will fail the test.

Hood and Tonneau – AK will require your car for one week for fitting.

Hardtop – AK will required your car for 2-3 weeks for fitting.

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Standard Interior Package Contents

Pair Leather Seats in colour of your choice
Leather Covered Dashboard
Leather Door Panels
Leather Gear Lever Gaiter
Leather Handbrake Gaiter
Seatbelt Top Covers
Leather Piped Tunnel Carpet- (Send carpet parts to AK see Chapter 11)
Carpet for interior of car, back bulkhead and boot
Spray glue and adhesive tin.

Deluxe Interior Package includes the Leather

Back Bulkhead Cover in lieu of carpet and
everything as above in the standard package

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Gas Ram Fitting Instructions

Lower Bonnet Brackets
Need to be fitted one inch in front of top cross member to
front wheel arches with the top butting up against the rain
gully. Drill through rain gully and fix with bolt.
Bonnet Brackets
Measure closed length of the gas ram, approx 11”, put a
mark on the body where bottom bracket is, measure 11”
up the body, transfer mark onto bonnet and that is where
the bracket goes. Fix with pop rivets.
Boot Bottom Brackets
Measure from hinge pin of boot hinge 19” diagonally to
rain gully mark and filler bracket in place. Drill through rain
gully and bolt.
Boot Brackets
Measure closed length on gas ram, repeat as per fitment of
bonnet brackets.

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Heater Plumbing In Hose Kit - Chevy

Stainless Steel Heater Rail

11.5” Heater Pipe (16mm ID silicone)
1 x 90o Bend
1 x 1 Metre Heater Pipe (16mm ID silicone)
8 x 16-25 Jubilee Clips

AVAILABLE IN BLUE OR BLACK

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 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS- CHAPTER 13

Radiator to Engine Hose Kit – Chevy

1 x Stainless steel bottom hose

8 x 32-50 Jubilee clips
1 x 40-60 Jubilee clip
2 x 10-16 Jubilee clip
1 x 14.75” Hose (9.5mm ID silicone)
1 x 45-38 Silicone reducer
1 x 4 1/8” Silicone hose (1.5” ID)
1 x 9 ¼” Silicone hose (1.5” ID)
1 x 16 ¾” Silicone hose (1.5” ID)

AVAILABLE IN BLUE OR BLACK

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Wiper Package

1 x Wiper Motor Assembly

3 x Long Wheel Box
1 x Long Worm Drive
1 x Mounting Strap
1 x Mounting Pad
1 x Wiper System Tube
3 x 10” Wiper Blades
3 x Wiper Arms
3 x Wiper Bezels

ALSO AVAILABLE IN A 2 WIPER PACKAGE

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LS Parts
AK supply the following LS parts:-
Complete ECU & loom run kit
Throttle Cable
Air Intake Pipe
Air Filter
LS Exhaust System
LS 3 Hose Package contents:
2 x 16mm 90 deg bends

2 x 38mm 90 deg bends

3 x 1m lengths 16mm tube

1 x 1m length 10mm tube

1 x 1/2 m 6mm tube

1 x 1/2m 38mm tube

1 x 76mm 102mm tube

Plus various hose clips

AVAILABLE IN BLUE OR BLACK

Please call the AK office for further details.

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AK CAN OFFER A RANGE OF MORE COMPREHENSIVE PACKAGES.

A NUMBER OF THE BELOW PACKAGES HAVE MANY OPTIONS OF PARTS WITHIN EACH OF THEM
SO PLEASE CONTACT THE AK OFFICE AND REQUEST A COPY OF THE PACKAGE YOU ARE
INTERESTED IN. THE OFFICE WILL E MAIL YOU OPTION LIST RELEVANT TO THAT PACKAGE.

AK COMPREHENSIVE PACKAGES: ALL POA

1. DONOR PARTS PACK- Includes Recon axles, BMW steering column, XJS
Handbrake, Rover Servo & Master Cylinder

2. BRAKE, FUEL & CLUTCH PACK – Includes Master cylinder c/w integral
reservoir & adjustable clevice pin, brake pipe and fittings, fuel line +
optional LS fuel pump

3. SCREEN & BRIGHTWORK PACK – Includes screen and escutcheons, centre

stay, wind wings, sun visors, filler cap and flange + optional nudge bars,
over riders or jacklifters.

4. DOORS, BONNET AND BOOT PACK – Includes door locks, bonnet and boot
handles and latches, boot hinge set, battery tray, boot fuel pipe cover

5. HEAT PACK - Includes heater, demit vents and moulded plastic inlets,
heater tube

6. LIGHTS & MIRROR PACK- Includes headlights & rims, indicators, stop tail
lights, side repeaters, fog light, reversing light, reflectors, number plate
light, wing mirrors and centre mirror

7. DASH BOARD PACK – Includes ignition switch, savage switches, start

button, dash warning lights, usb point, cigarette lighter.

8. COCKPIT PACK – Includes seat belts, horn, handbrake handle, indicator

stalk ends, gear lever trim ring, steering wheel, steering wheel boss, seat
runners, immobiliser

9. BODY PARTS AND BADGES – Includes roll bar escutcheons, side front and
rear badges, side vents, exhaust escutceons, door escutcheon, splitter
wings, lower body wings, round headrests, high level brake light, washer
jets, stoneguards

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NOTES PRE IVA TEST

Remove the following parts from your car before your IVA test if you have already
fitted them:

Wind wings

Sunvisors

Wheel Spinners

Jack lifters

Wing mirrors – Only if body mounted Lucas type as these will not pass IVA!!

We recommend you take your car for a pre MOT as this will ensure your brakes are ok
and also give you the chance to set both your emissions and your tracking.

AK offer a pre IVA check and a full IVA testing service, where we take your car
to the IVA test for you. Please contact the AK office for further details.

We have an IVA Kit which include the following items:-

1 X PAIR IVA COMPLIANT SCREEN MOUNTED WING MIRRORS

1 X PAIR IVA COMPLIANT HEAD RESTS THAT FIT ONTO AK SEATS

1 X PAIR IVA COMPLIANT INDICATOR LENS

1 X STEERING WHEEL COVER – IF REQUIRED

1 X NUMBER PLATE LIGHT BRACKET

10 X STRIPS EDGE FOR AK SIDE VENTS

1 X BLUE TUBE FOR TOP OF THE WINDSCREEN

We make a small charge for the loan of this kit which needs pre booking with the AK
office as soon as you book your IVA test date.

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IVA and Registration

IVA:

1. Apply for an IVA test application form, contact Swansea Vehicle Inspection on 0300 1239000 / email Enquires
@ [Link] or Download forms (IVA 1C) Application for Declaration Individual Vehicle Approval and (IVA 4)-
Amateur Build from [Link]/Vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval - They now offer an online
service for completing the IVA application, which we recommend.

2. When your car is nearing completion send off your IVA 1C and IVA 4 forms to the address on the forms with
the appropriate fee, you will need to include build photographs and some receipts / invoices for the major
component parts including body / chassis kit, engine etc. OR you can now complete both forms online and
scan over your build photographs. VOSA will contact you when they require you to contact them and pay for
your test, normally by e mail.

3. Your chosen IVA centre will contact you when they receive your application from Swansea to arrange a test
date OR you will receive an email asking you to contact VOSA to organise the test date. Please ensure you
contact AK as soon as you have the confirmed IVA test date, should you wish to reserve an AK IVA kit for your
test date we charge a small fee for the loan of the kit.

4. Contact DVLA at Swansea and request your V55/5 form (For age related registrations) or V55/4 form (For new
registrations) NOTE: THESE ARE CARBONATED FORMS WHICH ARE ONLY AVAILABLE BY POST. THESE CAN
TAKE UP TO 3 WEEKS TO ARRIVE- YOU WILL NEED ONE OF THESE FORMS STRAIGHT AFTER YOU PASS YOUR
IVA TEST TO REGISTER YOUR CAR!!

Registration:

1. When your car has passed its IVA Inspection test you will require some / all of the following forms which are
available from: DVLA OR AK in the case of the V267 form:-

If registering the car on an age related plate:

a. V5- of original donor car (logbook)

b. V55/5- (Application for a first licence for a used motor vehicle & declaration for registration) A carbonated
form available from: DVLA - BY POST ONLY
c. V627/1- (Built up vehicle inspection report) available from: DVLA online service

If registering your car as new:

a. V55/4 Application for a first licence for a new motor vehicle & declaration for registration) A carbonated form
available from: DVLA - BY POST ONLY.
b. V627/1 - (Built up vehicle inspection report) available from: DVLA online service
c. V267 – (Declaration of vehicle newness for use by independent importer)- This will be provided by request from
AK and stamped and signed for you.

PLEASE LOG ONTO THE AK WEBSITE IN THE MEMBERS ONLY AREA FOR EXAMPLES ON
COMPLETING THE ABOVE FORMS.

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2. Once you have completed and collated all the relevant forms above you will also need to supply the following
documents for registration:-

a. A Copy of your car insurance document. (Insure it on your chassis number).

b. Copy of your plastic driving licence OR your paper driving licence with two further forms of ID (Utility bills
and/or Bank statements showing your name & address).

c. 6 or 12 months UK road tax fee. Check with DVLA for current PLG car tax rates – Kit car specific!!

d. First registration fee (£55 @ 08/10/18). Please check with DVLA if unsure!!!!!!- (A cheque for the total amount
of C & D is fine, write on the back of the cheque the breakdown).

e. Invoices for your body/chassis kit, engine and 3-4 other parts invoices. (Photocopies are fine)

f. Your original IVA pass certificate (Photocopy it if you wish to keep a copy as DVLA keep the original).

g. Your Car Registration documents if you are using/transferring a private number plate, with relevant fee if
applicable. NOTE we advise doing the transfer of your cherished plate after your AK has been registered and
allocated a normal number plate, we have found doing it at the same time that it held up the first registration
process by a further 2 weeks. It is a 5 minute job to do online after the initial registration!

Send all the forms and documents by registered post to: (We recommend you photocopy everything you are
sending just in case of loss in the postal system).

DVLA
MASET TEAM
SWANSEA
SA99 1ZZ

3. The DVLA are currently quoting a 10 working day turn round (We have found this varies from 10 – 30 days
depending on how busy they are!), you should then receive a letter confirming the issued car registration
number followed by your V5 (log book) and your personal documents in the post direct to your address.

4. As soon as you receive your letter confirming your registration you should be able to have number plates
made up, which you can then fit to your car and you’re free then to ENJOY your car legally on the open roads.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

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TRANSPORT SERVICE
AK have a Brian James covered race shuttle trailer and driver, so please contact AK
for costs for deliveries and collections if required.

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 BUILD PICTURES- CHAPTER 14

CHASSIS BUILD UP- GENERATION I:

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ROLL BAR AND SEAT BELT BRACKET:

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SUSPENSION AND AXLES GEN I:

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 MAINTAINING YOUR AK 427- CHAPTER 15

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS & RUN IN PROCEDURE

This specification sheet is designed to help you understand and enjoy your AK 427 Cobra by giving detailed
information on equipment and general care.

If there are any queries or more information is required please do not hesitate to contact AK Sportscars.

TYRE PRESSURES

Front: 22psi

Rear: 24psi

ENGINE OIL

5/30 Fully synthetic oil ( LS ENGINES)

20/50 Mineral oil ( OLD ENGINES)

GEAR BOX OIL

Use ATF oil to Dexron III specifications for Tremec 5 speed gearboxes. This fluid can also be used in the
power steering system fitted.

DIFFERENTIAL OIL

Use only LS90 for Limited Slip diffs

Use only 75/140 gear oil for open diffs

BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID

Use only D.O.T 4 brake fluid

FUEL

Your AK 427 can be run on any unleaded petrol.

VIN LOCATION

The Vehicle Identity Number is located on the front lower drivers side chassis rail below the brake servo.
There is also a plate on the rear engine bay bulkhead.

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FUSES AND RELAYS

The main fuse and relay panel is located in the top of the passenger side foot well. Found behind the glove
box compartment rearward of the dash. We advise keeping an assortment of spare fuses with your AK 427.

SPARE WHEEL

Due to the lack of space in the boot of the Cobra no physical spare wheel is supplied. The vehicle however
should carry a can of Tyre- weld designed as a temporary repair and the tyre must be professionally
repaired/replaced as soon as practical. To remove the wheel use two Allen keys to remove the wheel spinner
and nut cover plate to access the 19mm wheel nuts.

SECURITY

The vehicle is fitted with transponder immobiliser. When the key fob is within range of the dash it will
terminate the immobiliser allowing the car to start.

SERVICE SCHEDULES

The vehicle should be serviced at initial 500 mile run in interval and every 3000 miles or 12 months
whichever the sooner. Gearbox and differential oil to be checked for level at every service and full drain and
refill at every other service 6000 miles or 24 months whichever the sooner.

It is advisable to carry out a nut and bolt check inspection of the major mechanical components at every
service due to the hand built nature of the vehicle.

Any service items or required parts can be sourced through AK Sportscars.

RUN IN PROCEDURE

Please follow the following instructions for the longevity and reliability of the engine. We advise making the
vehicle work throughout the gears in the first 1000 miles of use rather than long cruise drives in one gear.
This will ensure the vital components of the engine are run in correctly and give reliable future service.

First 500 miles do not exceed 3500 RPM

500 -1000 miles do not exceed 4000 RPM

1000 miles onwards 5500 RPM

MOT TEST

Your AK 427 will be due an MOT test after the first 3 years from date of cars first registration ONLY if the car
was registered as new on it’s first registration and not age related to the Jaguar donor V5. If you registered
the car on an age related basis your car will be due it’s MOT one year after its first registration.

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