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TESTING
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CARE LABELING OF TEXTILE APPARELS

G. S. NADIGER
Director (Laboratories), Textiles Committee, Mumbai

Textiles and clothing should fulfill the functional comfort, aesthetic safety and ecological requirements.
Textiles are soiled during their normal use. Hence, these are to be cleaned and refurrbished for reuse
without substantially altering their serviceability characteristics. Textile care includes the wet washing
dry cleaning, drying, ironing and bleaching . Wherever necessary. Textile care industry in this connotation
includes washer man, laundry, professional cleaning establishments and last but not the least domestic
washing by consumers. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) of USA promulgated a trade regulation
on the care labeling of textile and certain goods in 1971 and amended it in 1983.
Key words: Apparels, Care label.

INTRODUCTION industries and the consumers of words. Sequel to this, the

jointly address the issues for the American Society for Testing and
Textiles and clothing should fulfill optimum serviceability of textile Materials (ASTM) has developed
the functional, comfort, aesthetic items. laundering and dry cleansing
safety and ecological requirements. symbols, which are being
These characteristics by and large Textile care includes the wet
implemented by FTC. This effort is
defined the serviceability of the washing, dry cleaning, during
to harmonize the care label
textile products. In addition social, ironing and bleaching wherever
symbols in the above countries.
psychological, physiological, necessary. Textile care industry in
International Organization for
physical, economic parameters play this connotation includes washer
Standards (ISO) has developed an
a vital role in the selection of man, laundry, professional cleaning
International Standard ISO-3758:
textiles products, wearing and establishments and last but not the
1991(E) for Textiles-Care labeling
purchase decisions. least domestic washing by
code using symbols. However, this
consumers.
Textiles are soiled during their standard is under active
normal use. Hence, these are to The Federal Trade Commission consideration for revision. In the
be cleaned and refurbished for (FTC) of USA promulgated a trade present paper an overview of textile
reuse without substantially altering regulation on the care labeling of care; care labeling and regulatory
their serviceability characteristics. textile and certain goods in 1971 scenario across the globe are
Textile consumers have the option and amended it in 1983. According discussed.
to clean and refurbish the textile to this rule the clothing items
should have a permanent care WHAT IS TEXTILE CARE?
items at home termed as home
laundering or get it done in label that provides written At the Hamilton Environmental
professional cleaning establishment information about their regular care. Summit in 1993, textile cleaning
popularly known as commercial The aim of this rule is to give the was defined as a generic process.
laundries. It is essential that consumer accurate care This re-definition dispels the
available cleaning processes information to extend the useful life paradigm that dry cleaning means
maintained or restored the of a garment. cleaning in perchloroethylene
desirable and functional attribute of The formation of the nor th (PERC) only. To initiate textile
the textiles. It is therefore imperative American free trade agreement cleaning, it requires breaking the
that the textile/clothing manu- (NAFTA) between the US, Canada soil-textile interaction forces to
facturers, textile cleaning and Mexico provided the stimulus loosen and transport the
establishments - textile care form using care symbols instead heterogeneous soils away from

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 7

textiles either in liquid, gas or even specially designed machine trousers, raincoats, or sweaters
a solid medium. However, the using water, detergent or soap may be cleaned in ether media.
material in solid, liquid or gaseous and agitation. When no Shirts, blankets, sleeping bags,
form should be recyclable. Further, temperature is given, e.g., and linens are best wet-
the soils should be concentrated "warm" or "cold", hot water up cleaned.
for proper disposal as a non to 150°F (68°C) can be l Textile Care Process -
hazardous waste. More importantly regularly used. Garment Damage Potential A
the process must clean cloth to l Cleaning Mechanism Colloid deviation from care label
satisfy the consumer need, and it chemistry in non-aqueous and instructions increases the risk
must be economically feasible and aqueous media allows of garment failure. The potential
environmentally acceptable. There satisfactory textile cleaning. We damage to garments during
are two boundary technologies know that polar soils are more cleaning is generally higher
namely non-aqueous and aqueous easily removed in water than with aqueous media than with
cleaning. in non-polar solvents and that non-aqueous media. This fact
l Non-aqueous textile cleaning non-polar soils are more easily is the major reason why dry
(dry-cleaning) is dictated by the removed in non-aqueous cleaning is extensively utilized.
properties of textiles and soils solvents. Often, manufacturers label their
but the medium does not have l Textile Care Process - Textile garments as "Dry Clean Only"
to be perchloroethylene only. It Properties The structure and to reduce garment damage and
is known that PERC is a proven properties of fibres, yarns, to ensure customer satisfaction
medium for professional textile fabrics, and colorants ultimately during the use of their
cleaning. Any other non polar deter mine which cleaning products.
media such as petroleum, process is best for them. l Shrinkage Potential - When
carbon dioxide are other non Consumers/Cleaners cannot garments shrink more than 2
polar liquids which meets the change textile properties, but or 3 per cent, the garments do
textile cleaning performance they must know as much as not fit well anymore and
requirements could be chosen. possible about them in order consumers will notice it.
l Dry-clean means a commercial to choose the best textile Shrinkage can occur during the
process by which soil is cleaning process. The cleaning, drying, or finishing
removed from products or spectrum of textile properties process. The new wet cleaning
specimens in a machine which dictates which cleaning technology optimizes and
uses common organic solvent process technology (non- controls the well-known
(e.g. petroleum, perchloro- aqueous or aqueous) is best process parameters to reduce
ethylene, fluorocarbon). The to maintain desirable textile shrinkage: time, mechanical
process may also include attributes. action, heat, and chemistry.
adding moisture to the solvent, l Textile Care Process - There are two types of
up to 75% relative humidity, hot Preferred Methods for shrinkage viz. felting shrinkage
tumble drying up to 160°F Garments Based on field and relaxation shrinkage.
(71°C) and restoration by studies, preferred methods for (a) Felting Shrinkage - This type
steam press or steam-air cleaning specific garments of shrinkage is unique to wool
finishing. have been established. Tailored because wool fibres have
l Aqueous textile cleaning is an or structured garments and surface scales that cause
advance professional wet high fashion items often have differential friction effects. When
cleaning technology that can linings, interfacing, trims, and wool fibres swell, as they do in
be used to clean textiles, which other accessories or have water, the scales expand and
are traditionally cleaned in non- complex design features. They are lifted. This increases
aqueous media. This often behave differently in the differential friction between
technology has advantages to same cleaning medium. fibres and interlocks and
consumers in achieving better Damage to these items is less compacts them, which causes
results than wet cleaning at likely to occur in non-aqueous felting shrinkage. It is possible
home. media than in aqueous to reduce but not eliminate the
cleaning media. Thus, these felting potential of wool with
l Machine Wash means a
garments are best cleaned in process additives that lower
process by which soil is
a non-aqueous media. Many inter-fibre friction and reduce
removed from products in a
garments, such as overcoats, fibre swelling.

8 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007

(b) Relaxation Shrinkage - During performance of textiles. Most Symbols. The USA TAG
fabr ic and garment dry cleaners use fabric finishes Administrator for ISO TC 38/SC
manufacturing, textiles are to restore or improve the hand 11 is American Textile
often stretched, shaped, and and feel of dry-cleaned fabrics. Manufacturers Institute.
under tension. This causes Fabric finishes for aqueous l Since July 1, 1997, the Federal
latent stresses at the cleaning are also available to Trade Commission allows the
macroscopic level (between achieve the same desirable optional use of care symbols
fibres and yarns) and at the effects. to convey garment and textile
microscopic level (within the care instructions to the
fibre morphology). The WHAT IS CARE-LABELING?
consumer. The standard being
macroscopic stresses are To assist consumers in getting used is ASTM D-5489
generally relaxed by information about clothing care, the Standard Guide for Care
mechanical action that allows Federal Trade Commission in 1971 Symbols for Care Instructions
movement between fibres and issued the Care Labeling Rule. This Textile.
yarns. Microscopic stress is Rule requires manufacturers and
released by Plasticization. importers to attach care instruction CARE LABEL SYMBOLS
Plasticization occurs when to garment. A revised version of GINETEX
fibres swell in a liquid medium this Rule became effective on
or when excessive energy Textile care labeling symbols are
January 2, 1984. The revisions to
(heat) is applied during drying. managed by GINETEX – Inter-
the Rule were based on information
Ether action lowers the gathered by the Commission national Association for Textile Care
cohesive energy between through public hearings and written Labeling. The professionals of the
amorphous polymer segments comments. Data revealed that while textile-gar ment-care chain
and causes relaxation within consumers found care labels to be established GINETEX in 1963 and
the fibre matrix, leading to useful, they also believed labels its head-office is in Paris, France.
shrinkage. were often incomplete, inaccurate, The GINETEX care symbols are
and inconsistent. registered with the WIPO - World
l Appearance and Tactile
Intellectual Property Organization in
Changes – Consumers l Care label means a permanent Geneva, Switzerland as
purchase new textiles based on label or tag, containing regular international trademarks. To this
visual and tactile perception. care information and instruc- end, care symbols must be used
Cleaning experts strive to tions, that is attached or affixed in respect of the use regulations of
retain or restore the physical in such a manner that it will the trademarks together with the
proper ties that cause the not be separated from the technical information on which they
desirable sensory attributes of products and will remain legible
textiles triggering positive are based. This will help in the
during the useful life of the correct use of the symbols by the
purchasing decisions. This product.
means to retain the original professionals.
l Care label is given in words or
colours, textures, and finishes GINETEX has the following
in symbols. However, the
during cleaning, or to restore objectives
symbols should give the
them if undesirable changes
consumer adequate informa- l To define symbols for textile
have occurred. Again, it is
tion to take care of the cleaning care at an international level,
easier to retain these
and other related operations.
properties during non-aqueous l To define the regulations for the
cleaning than during aqueous CARE SYMBOL LABELING use of the said symbols,
cleaning. The real issue is
l American Textile Manufacturers l To promote the propagation of
proper dyeing and
Institute (ATMI) participates in the care symbols,
colourfastness evaluation
during textile manufacturing. the activities and development l To acquire all markings and all
Textile and apparel of care symbols in the rights relative to the symbols,
manufacturers, retailers, and American Society for Testing
l To register all marks, both
textile care specialists must and Materials (ASTM) D-13.62.
national and international,
therefore work together to l ATMI also par ticipates in
l To insure protection for all
establish quality and test International Organization for
marks and symbols as adopted
protocols that predict Standardization (ISO) Technical
in all the member countries of
satisfactory cleaning Committee (TC) 38/SC 11 Care
the Association,

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 9

 Washing Bleaching Ironing Dry-cleaning Drying

l To conclude all agreements l In general, to take all measures objectives, either directly or
liable to the promotion of the and carry out all actions in indirectly.
abovementioned objectives, order to promote the above The GINETEX care labeling system

10 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007

ASTM Symbol System - Basic Symbols
American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) participates in the activities and development of care symbols
in the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) D-13.62. The symbols developed by ASTM are
currently used in USA.

Since July 1, 1997, US manufacturers are using ASTM-developed care symbols in place of written instructions
on permanent labels inside of garments. FTC does not believe the system of symbols set up by the International
Standards Organization (ISO) and known as GINETEX is a comprehensive as those developed by the ASTM.
Efforts to harmonize the ASTM and ISO care symbol systems are being continued.

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 11

This based on the following to everyone without language Normally, you would consider using
principles barriers. Using symbols allows, this type of label only if it were to
for smaller, more comfortable remain on the media throughout its
l The uniform use of the symbols
care labels. Smaller labels also life cycle, as is the case with the
is basically carried out in the
cost less and this could identification number or certification
interest of the consumer,
translate consumer savings. labels.
l The symbols were introduced The symbols are easy to
l Jackets.
in order to avoid any misinter- understand with just five basic
pretation by the consumer, symbols. Dots add temperature l Coats, overcoats, topcoats,
l The GINETEX symbols are to the procedure, underlining capes and ponchos.
simple enough to be (or minus signs) reduce l Pants, slacks and shorts.
understood in all countries, appliance action.
l Suits.
irrespective of the language l For manufacturers When
l Overalls and work clothing.
spoken by the users, yet har monized with other
providing as much information countries, symbols will allow l Shirts and blouses.
as possible on the appropriate par ticipation in a global l Sweaters.
care treatments for textile marketplace where symbols
l Skirts and kilts.
articles, will clearly communicate the
same infor mation in all l Sports clothing.
l In order to prevent irreversible
damage, the professionals are countries. Smaller labels cost l Dresses, jumpers, and
responsible for the choice of less to buy or manufacture and jumpsuits.
care-treatment in their articles, also cost less to inventory. l Dusters, house coats,
Eliminating the need for bathrobes, dressing gowns and
l The GINETEX care symbols
different labels for different smocks.
cannot be used separately and
countries further reduces total
shall refer to all treatments in l Children's clothing including
inventor y. The ASTM care
the order: washing bleaching, play clothing, overalls, snow
symbols are free of trademark
ironing, dr y-cleaning and and user fees. The ASTM suits, etc.
tumble drying, symbol system is unique in that l Towels.
l The symbols of the actual care it includes a symbol for "Non- l Bedspreads, blankets, quilts
labeling code shall be adapted chorine Bleach", eliminating the and comforters.
whenever necessar y to need for this most common
l Sheets, pillows and
technical and economical requirement.
evolutions but the changes pillowcases.
must be limited to essential TYPES OF CARE LABEL l Slip covers, Afghans, throws
ones in order not to create Permanent Labels and other covers for furniture,
confusion for the consumer. A permanent label is a label of such appliances and automobile
A correct care label for different material and attached in such seats.
countries is now required to consist manner that it can be expected to l Draperies, drapery liners and
of four and sometimes five symbols withstand and remain legible curtains.
in the following sequence: washing, throughout at least ten cleanings l Sleeping bags.
bleaching, ironing, dry-cleaning and of the article. The following list
l Tents and fly.
dr ying. ISO has accepted details examples of those articles
GINETEX symbols for classified in the Regulations as When a permanent label is
administering the international requiring permanent labels. attached to an article so as to leave
standards as a par t of both sides easily accessible, the
The permanent-type label comes
harmonization of standards. with a special adhesive backing; label may have part of the required
and when applied to a surface such information on one side and the
WHY SHOULD WE USE CARE remainder on the other. The
as the flange of a magnetic tape, it
SYMBOLS INSTEAD OF information may also be placed on
adheres permanently. That is not
WORDS? two different labels provided that
to say this type of label cannot be
l For consumers Symbols removed, but to remove it takes a the labels are adjoining or
provide the same information considerable amount of effor t. contiguous

12 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007

Non-Permanent Labels l Dish cloths, dishtowels and Labels for piece goods
A non-permanent label is a label, washcloths. Manufacturers and importers of
which is not expected to withstand l Covers and pads for ironing piece goods fabrics (yard goods)
and remain legible through ten boards and sleeve boards. are required to provide consumer
cleanings of the consumer textile l Covers for bathroom fixtures. information clearly and
article. The following list details conspicuously on the end of each
l Outer coverings of upholstered
examples of those articles bolt or roll of fabric. Care
furniture, mattresses, box
classified in the Regulations as instructions must follow the rules
springs, cushions, chair pads,
eligible for a non-permanent label. previously stated. Manufacturers
oven mitts, pot holders,
The non-permanent type label has placemats and mattresses and are no longer required to provide
a special adhesive backing of stick- pillow protectors. fabric retailers with care labels to
on-type construction that can be give to consumers to sew into the
l Carpets, carpeting, rugs and
applied to just about any kind of clothes they make, although many
carpet tiles.
surface yet be removed with very have labels available and will
l Bed canopies. provide them to consumers who
little effort. This type of label is most
useful in applications where Articles from this list can be labeled ask for them. Yard goods intended
information regarding the media with a non-permanent label such for children's sleepwear will also be
itself, or what is written upon it, as a hangtag, a wrapper, or a labeled on the fabrics bolt end with
changes quite frequently. Usage sticker. Alternatively, if the dealer a statement such as "Flame
desires, a permanent label may be resistant, safe for children's
labels, cleaning labels, and save
used. sleepwear." Often cotton
labels are usually nonpermanent
type labels. Flammability labels flannelettes and other fabrics of
similar weight and textures that are
l Undergarments, lingerie, Each year many burn injuries and
not treated for flame resistance will
sleepwear and swimwear. deaths occur because clothing
be labeled "Not suitable for
catches fire. If clothing ignites, the
l Scarves, shawls, mufflers and children's sleepwear."
burn injury is often severe, resulting
handkerchiefs. in permanent scarring. The Labels about dimensional
l Stretch tights (leotards), Consumer Product Safety stability
hosiery and panty hose. Commission administers the
Some fabrics shrink or stretch out
Flammable Fabrics Act and other
l Gloves, mittens and gaiters. of shape during use and care. A
rules that are aimed at keeping the
l Wigs, toupees, switches and few terms may appear on the label
most dangerously flammable
other hairpieces. to help inform consumers about the
fabrics off the consumer market.
However, most household and dimensional stability of a textile
l Headwear.
apparel fabrics will burn when in product.
l Aprons and bibs.
contact with a flame or heat source. l Preshrunk means some
l Diapers.
Children's sleepwear, mattress shrinking procedure has been
l Neckties, bow ties, and pads, carpets and rugs sold in the followed but does not indicate
detachable collars and cuffs. United States are usually labeled how much more the textile
l Umbrellas and parasols. "Flame resistant." They are product will shrink during use
required by law to meet special and care.
l Cordage and ropes.
flammability standards. l 3 Percent Shrinkage means
l Batting, wadding and padding.
Flame resistant fabrics are not that the item may shrink as
l Yarns, sewing and embroidery flameproof. Under cer tain much as one inch per yard of
threads. conditions, they will still burn, but fabric, resulting in the loss of
l Piece goods and narrow generally they ignite with difficulty, almost one garment size.
fabrics. burn slowly and self-extinguish l Prewashed is sometimes used
when the source of heat and flame
l Tablecloths, silence cloths, on denim to indicate a softer
is removed. Manufacturers must
napkins, doilies, dresser and fabric with some colour fading.
include special instructions for care
furniture scarves, runners and The garment is less likely to
necessary to preserve flame-
antimacassars. shrink when washed.
resistant properties.

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 13

l Sanforized TM, Sanfor-Knit TM, of packaging, folding or display, l Ramie is a cellulosic fibre
and Sanfor-Set TM are trade- additional labeling is required. The grown in Asian countries. It is
marks owned by Cluett, same care instructions that appear strong, lustrous and smooth. It
Peabody & Co. SanforizedTM on the article must be provided in wrinkles easily and is flammable.
signifies that the woven cotton one of the following ways l Raw silk is a rather stiff, crisp
or cotton blend fabric has been textured fabric that has not
l On the outer packaging;
tested and conforms to a been boiled (degummed) to
precise standard of effective l On a removable label or ticket remove the natural gum
shrinkage control. Sanfor-KnitTM attached to the article; or extruded by the silkworm.
signifies high standards of
Other common additional label l Textured yarn is a fibre yarn
shrinkage control and easy-
terms that has increased bulk,
case performance in 100
percent cotton and cotton- There are several other terms that warmth and elasticity because
blend knit fabr ics and may appear on labels. While they it has been heat set with crimp.
gar ments. Sanfor-Set TM are not required, they do have l Thread count gives the
signifies that the woven cotton specific meanings. number of yarns per inch in
or cotton-blend fabric conforms l Carded: Shorter, thicker cotton each direction in the fabric. A
to precise standard of higher thread count gives a
fibres provide a soft, durable
shrinkage control and easy- stronger, smoother fabric.
fabric
care performance. l Upland cotton: the cotton
l Combed cotton is a fabric that
Product specific labeling plant variety most commonly
is smooth, lustrous and strong
A mandatory standard relating to grown in the U.S. that is valued
because the fibres are long
care labeling of clothing and other for its fibre length, diameter,
and straightened so that they
textile products has been and uniformity.
lie parallel to each other.
introduced in South Australia to l Woolen: fabric is thick and
ensure that all items are clearly l Double needle stitching fuzzy because wool fibres in
marked with care instructions. The means that the seams are yarns are short and partially
information standard provides a list closed with two parallel lines straightened.
of the types of goods exempt from of stitching for extra strength.
l Worsted: fabric is smooth,
the requirement, such as second- l Madras cotton is a soft plaid lustrous, and strong because
hand goods. Products coverd by fabric made in India with yarns fibres in wool yarns are long,
the mandatory requirements dyed with natural vegetable and combed to straighten.
include clothing, household textiles, colours. These dyes usually
apparel, some fur nishings, fade or "bleed" in laundry, USE OF CARE SYMBOL
upholstered furniture, bedding, giving a blended colour effect. l Care labels indicate how to
mattresses, bed bases, piece
l Permanent or durable press clean textile articles in the best
goods and yarns made from
fabrics have been given a possible way.
textiles, plastics, plastic coated
fabrics, suede skins, hides, grain special chemical treatment to l Care symbols give all the
leathers and/or furs. In general, the make them more wrinkle- necessary information on
mandatory standard requires that resistant. They usually do not washing, bleaching, ironing,
care instructions be require ironing when properly dry-cleaning and tumble drying.
laundered. l Without this information, the
l Per manently attached to
l Pima is an especially good consumer can hardly decide on
articles;
quality natural cotton fibre that the appropriate care treatment
l Written in English; because it does not depend
is longer, more lustrous,
l Legible; smooth and usually more only on the main fabric, which
l Appropriate and adequate for expensive. composes the textile article.
Indeed, all the components of
the care of the article; and l Pure is a term used to describe the said textile article shall be
l Accessible to the consumer at any fabric that is not a blend, taken into account: other fibres,
point-of-sale. e.g., "pure cotton" is another accessories, but also dying,
Where care instructions are not way of saying "100 percent finishing treatments and
visible at the point-of-sale because cotton". textures.

14 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007

l Care label provides the
Country Language Composition Origin Size Care
consumer with care information
he/she does not have to decide NORTH AMERICA
on. Indeed, the consumer does
Canada English and Mandatory Mandatory Optional Optional
not have experience and French
technical support to decide on
care treatment. USA English Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory

l Observing information given SOUTH AMERICA

with the symbols, the consumer
Argentina Spanish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
will avoid wrong treatments and
consequently premature Brazil Portuguese Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
wearing out. He/she will
Chilie Spanish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
therefore obtain better results.
Colombia Spanish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
l Care labeling is determined
under the responsibility of the Mexico Spanish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
garment maker in common
Venezuela Spanish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
interest of textile manu-
(Catalan)
facturers, drycleaners and of
course consumers. ASIA

l Symbols refer to maximum China Chinese Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory

permissible treatments that a
South Korea Korean Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory
textile article can bear without
irreversible damage. More Hong-Kong English Optional Optional Optional Optional
severe treatments can always (optional)
be applied. India English and Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Optional
Thus, care symbols are recom- Hindi
mendations on how to clean a Indonesia English Optional Optional Optional Optional
textile article on which they are (optional)
affixed; they should not be
Japan Japanese Mandatory Mandatory Optional Optional
considered as a use guaranty
neither as a quality mark. Malaysia Malaysian or Optional Optional Optional Optional
English
How to use care labels (optional)
One should read the labels before
Pakistan English or Optional Optional Optional Optional
buying textiles and garments. Use
All languages
the labels to make infor med (optional)
choices. Follow care labels as wear
and care items. Provide appropriate Philippines English Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory

instructions to dry cleaners about Singapore English Optional Optional Optional Optional
stains and any precautionary (optional)
statements on the labels so that
Taiwan Mandarin Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
they can serve better. Pay for the
Chinese
costs of labeling; it might as well
get as much benefit as one can Thai or
from it. Thailand English Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
(translated)
How to read a label into Thai)

The label gives variety of Mandatory

information and some of the useful Vietnam Vietnamese Mandatory Optional Optional for some
tips to read the same are under. products

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 15

 MEGHREB SIZE
Tells what size the garment is. May
Country Language Composition Origin Size Care
list a numeric size class such as
Algeria Arab Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory Small (S), Medium (M), Large (L),
X-Large (XL). There is no uniform
Morocco Arab and Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
French standard for sizing in the U.S.

Arab and
Tunisia French or Mandatory Optional Optional Optional
English

MIDDLE-EAST

Saudi Arab or Arab Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory

Arabia +English

Arab or
Barhain English Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
(optional)

United English
Arab (mandatory) Optional Mandatory Mandatory Optional
Emirates or Arab
(optional)

English or
Egypt Arab Optional Mandatory Optional Optional
WHERE IT'S MADE
(optional) for fabric
"Made in USA" from imported fabric
Israel Hebrew Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
"Made in China," "Taiwan," etc.
Kuwait English Optional Mandatory Optional Optional
STYLE NUMBER
Arab or Identifies a particular style of
French or
Lebanon English Optional Optional Optional Optional
garment in a manufacturer's line.
(optional) Used to track sales, returns. (Not
always shown.)
All languages
Libya (optional) Optional Optional Optional Optional TYPE OF FABRIC
In the U.S. the generic names of
EASTERN EUROPE all fibres present in the amount of
five percent or more of the total
Country Language Composition Origin Size Care fibre weight must be provided on
Bulgaria Bulgarian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory the label.

Greek or RN NUMBER
other
A registered identification number
Cyprus languages Mandatory Optional Optional Mandatory
of the (RN) is issued by the U.S. Federal
European Trade Commission to a business
Union residing in the U.S. that is engaged
(optional)
in the manufacture, impor ting,
Estonia Estonian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory distributing, or sale of textile, wool,
Hungary Hungarian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
or fur products. Such businesses
are not required to have an RN.
Latvia Latvian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Optional However, the RN can be used in
Lithuania Lithuanian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory place of a name on the label or
tag that is required to be affixed to
Maltese or
these products.
Malta English or Mandatory Optional Optional Optional
Italian

16 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007

 Country Language Composition Origin Size Care
country of origin and size of the
garment are by and large
Poland Polish Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory mandatory. Following table gives an
Czech Czech Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory account of various countries
Republic requirements of labels.
Romanian or
Romania English or All Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory CONCLUSION
languages
(optional) l Textiles and clothing should
fulfill the functional, comfort,
Slovakia Slovak Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory
aesthetic safety and ecological
Slovenia Slovene Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory requirements. These charac-
teristics by and large defined
OTHER COUNTRIES
the serviceability of the textile
Country Language Composition Origin Size Care products. In addition social,
psychological, physiological,
South Africa English Mandatory Optional Optional Mandatory physical, economic parameters
Australia English Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory play a vital role in the selection
of textiles products, wearing
Norway Norwegian Mandatory Optional Optional Mandatory and purchase decisions.
Russia Russian Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory Mandatory l Textiles are soiled during their
Switzerland French or Optional Optional Optional Optional normal use. Hence, these are
German to be cleaned and refurbished
for reuse without substantially
Turquie Turquish Mandatory Mandatory Optional Mandatory
altering their serviceability
characteristics.
This information is an extract of the comprehensive study carried out by the Team
of Expertise Textile, LA FEDERATION (French Textile Organization), has been l Textile consumers have the
validated end of 2003. option to clean and refurbish
the textile items at home
termed as home laundering or
importers to provide at least one
get it done in professional
satisfactory method of care
cleaning establishment
necessary for the ordinary use of
popularly known as commercial
the garment. The label must also
laundries.
provide warnings against the use
of any method, which the consumer l Textile care includes the wet
can reasonably expect to use, that washing, dry cleaning, drying,
would harm the product. Note that ironing and bleaching wherever
fabrics on a bolt should have care necessary. Textile care industry
instructions on the end of the bolt. in this connotation includes
washer man, laundry, profes-
The laundry instructions are to
sional cleaning establishments
provide instructions for, in order,
and last but not the least
washing, bleaching, drying, and
domestic washing by
ironing; and dr y cleaning
consumers. There are two
instructions are to include one
types of cleaning viz. Non-
The RN number is helpful for symbol.
aqueous and aqueous
consumers when trying to contact
UPDATE ON INTERNATIONAL cleaning.
a manufacturer with a question,
comment, or complaint. TEXTILE CARE-LABELING l Textile Care Process - Garment
REGULATIONS Damage Potential - A deviation
CARE INSTRUCTIONS from care label instructions
Care labeling standards developed
The Care Labeling Rule requires increases the risk of garment
by various national standard bodies
clothing manufacturers and failure. The potential damage
are voluntary in nature. However,

Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007 17

 to garments during cleaning is to everyone without language permanent labels, flammability
generally higher with aqueous barriers. Using symbols allows, labels, labels for dimensional
media than with non-aqueous for smaller, more comfortable stability etc.
media. This fact is the major care labels. Smaller labels also l Use of care label can give
reason why dry cleaning is cost less and this could better serviceability of the
extensively utilized. Often, translate into consumer textile product. A labels gives
manufacturers label their savings. The symbols are easy size, country of origin, style no.,
garments as "Dry Clean Only" to understand with just five fabric composition, trade mark
to reduce garment damage and basic symbols. Dots add number and care instructions.
to ensure customer satisfaction temperature to the procedure,
dur ing the use of their l Labels are by and large
underlining (or minus signs)
products. reduce appliance action. voluntary in nature. However,
some of the countries like USA,
l Care label means a permanent l For manufacturers when China, have made it mandatory
label or tag, containing regular har monized with other to safe guard the interest of
care information and instruc- countries, symbols will allow consumers.
tions, that is attached or affixed par ticipation in a global
in such a manner that it will l Developing countries have to
marketplace where symbols
not be separated from the will clearly communicate the prepare to introduce care
product and will remain legible same infor mation in all labels to suit to the prevailing
during the useful life of the countries. Smaller labels cost textile care conditions.
product. less to buy or manufacture and l India has potential to contribute
l Care label is given either in also cost less to inventory. for development of its own care
words or in symbols. However, Eliminating the need for labeling scheme due to the
the symbols should give the different labels for different upgradation of textile care
consumer adequate informa- countries further reduces total system and increased aware-
tion to take care of the cleaning inventor y. The ASTM care ness of textile consumerism.
and other related operations. symbols are free of trademark
REFERENCES
and user fees. The ASTM
l Since July 1, 1997, the Federal
symbol system is unique in that 1. Textile fabrics and their selection by
Trade Commission allows the Isabel B Wingate.
it includes a symbol for "Non-
optional use of care symbols
chlorine Bleach", eliminating 2. h t t p : / / w w w. c a r e - l a b e l l i n g c o m /
to convey garment and textile what.symbols.mean.html
the need for this most common
care instructions to the
requirement. 3. http://www.peterkeen.com/frich3.htm
consumer. The standard being
4. http://www.care-labelling.com
used is ASTM D-5489 l Since July 1, 1997, US
5. http://muextension.missouri.edu/
Standard Guide for Care manufacturers are using
explore/hesguide/clothing/gh0824.htm
Symbols for Care Instructions ASTM-developed care symbols
6. http://www.consumersonline.gov.au/
Textile. in place of written instructions
content/publications/RIS/resources_R
l Textile care labeling symbols on permanent labels inside of IS _ 98_3.asp
are managed by GINETEX - gar ments. FTC does not
7. http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/garment/
International Association for believe the system of symbols apparel/12/vecel.pdf
Textile Care Labeling. The set up by the International
8. h t t p : / / w w w. u t ex t e n s i o n . u t k . e d u /
professionals of the textile- Standards Organization (ISO) publications/spfiles/sp519.pdf
garment-care chain established and known as GINETEX is as
9. h t t p : / / w w w. a t m i . o r g / S t a n d a r d s /
GINETEX in 1963 and its head- comprehensive as those labeling.asp
office is in Paris, France. The developed by the ASTM. Efforts 10. http://www.textileaffairs.com/
GINETEX care symbols are to harmonize the ASTM and
11. h t t p : / / w w w.tr a d e. g o v. t w / e n g l i s h /
registered with the WIPO-World ISO care symbol systems are law_export5.htm
Intellectual Property Organiza- being continued.
12. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/
tion- In Geneva, Switzerland as l Depending on the end use buspubs/thread.htm
international trademarks. different type of care labels are 13. http://fabriclink.com/clabel.html
l For consumers symbols enunciated. They are 14. h t t p : / / w w w. bu y fa b r i c d i r e c t . c o m /
provide the same information per manent labels, non- buyfabricdirect/FabricCare.htm n

18 Journal of the Textile Association – May-June 2007