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AD30VT modication for FX insert and return signal

C17

C30

0.1uF 220uF/35V ceramic -Vss(-30V) Q5 R45 KTC2874 Even though 2.2k

the AD30VT is a great R46 little amp, it lacks a simple feature that it doesnt tone 10 (1W) necessarily adds a lot of production cost to Vox. And this feature is very useful for all guitar C47 NU players: the effects in ceramicout jacks for external signal processing. and I asked could be simply added. And having the Service Manual, where there are the schematics and block diagrams, I started analyzing where this mod could be done. So I called my father who is an electronic engineer, analyzed the schematic, and spotted R72 place where we would bypass the signal. That is near the LINE OUT jack. So the obthe jective 47k_F(1%) was to get a LINE OUT signal without cutting the speaker output and without messing with the LINE OUT jack itself.
R17 + C33 47uF/35V myself if this C35 0.22uF

R29 22k

As you in this schematic, the LINE OUT signal comes after the MASTER VOL2.2k Max Min 2.2k through resistors and capacitors to level de signal and goes straight to the R58 UME, passes R16 470 +15V jack. As this jack is a switching one (it cuts when a plug is inserted), we needed to make C43 0 the bypass just before the jack pins. We need two bypasses, one for the signal going out ( 10uF/25V that would be the TO FX UNIT) and one for the signal going in to the Valve Reactor circuit R59 1k ( FROM FX UNIT). 8
+ 2 3 4 2 R73 47(1W) C54 100uF/25V

VR1B 100kB

R18 1 can see

C34

NU

A M2082D C42

FB2 FB-M C55 22pF ceramic C46 22pF ceramic 1 2 3 4 5 6 J2

0uF/25V -15V LINE OUT

R61 47(1W) LINE OUT

C48 100uF/25V

FB1 FB-M

PRE OUT

PRE OUT R56 10k

PHONE / LINE OUT

+3VD

+3VD R22 10k R10 10k

D8 1N4148

PHONE_JACK_SW C63 0.1uF ceramic +3VD D14 1N4148 Shassis GND R69

C41 0.01uF ceramic

D9 1N4148

As you can see, the LINE OUT signal 10ksplit in two for stereo reasons. We only need to is J1 cut on one point of the split signal, where the green arrow is pointing. The otherSW is FOOT point where the return signal goes directly to the VR circuit, the red arrow. So we need to break C50 D15 the circuit in these two0.1uF points. 1N4148 PHONE_JACK STEREO ceramic After breaking the circuit, we will have four points, A, B, C64 D, as you can see in the followC, +3VD 0.1uF you can understand the moding gure. In this gure I added the two new mono jacks so ceramic ded signal ow. The wires make the connections to the jacks.
D10 1N4148 R11 10k Shassis GND

C7 0.1uF ceramic

D11 1N4148

NC : No Connect

Case 1: nothing is plugged The signal goes to point A, then to point JA. As no plug is inserted, the jack is closing the circuit, so the signal passes to point JB, returns to point B, passes through point C, then jumps to JC, goes to point JD and returns to point D, which then goes to VR circuit. Case 2: we connect the IN and OUT jacks for FX unit The signal goes to point A, then to point JA. Now we are breaking the circuit, so the signal goes out TO FX unit input and no signal is getting to point JB and B. So, we are getting a return signal FROM FX unit output into point JD (avoiding the signal to JC and C) and from JD to point D which goes to VR circuit with the processed signal. Got that? Easy... Case 3: we plug LINE OUT or a headphone only Similar to case 1, but the the LINE OUT is breaking the VR circuit, so we get a signal from point B (JA and JB are closing the circuit) and other part of the stereo signal. Case 4: we plug the FROM FX unit jack In this case we are getting the signal directly from de fx unit, so we can bypass the AD30VT preamp section and feed the VR directly.

So, to end the theory, four possible scenarios are taken into account with just breaking the circuit at two points. MATERIALS NEEDED Ok, all we need is the following: 2 mono 1/4 phone switch jacks 4 shielded cables (I got them from old headphones) Cutter Tin Solder iron. Drill. A bench or desk with good lighting

PROCEDURE Note 1: If you are unsure of this, just dont do it! If you know someone with a background in electronic/electric engineer or technician, ask him if he can do it for you. If you feel sure about this, lets go on with the steps! Note 2: Obviously, I am not responsible for whatever happens to you and your amp. Take this procedure at your own risk. 1. Unplug all cables and unscrew all screws. First the ones on the back then the ones on the sides. 2. Remove the back panel and unplug the speaker cables. Remember or mark their insert positions. 3. Remove the amp chassis. 4. Remove screws from the bottom of the chassis. There are four plated ones and two black ones (that hold the black heat sink). 5. Remove the nuts from the LINE OUT and FOOT SW jacks. Remove de AMP LEVEL knob and nut. 6. Cut the plastic tie that holds the transformer colored wires with a bunch of white wires that go into the main PCB. 7. Carefully pull out the PCB while holding the heat sink in place (because it is screwed to the LM3886 amp chip) and turn it so that you can see the green side of the PCB. Becareful with the tube not to touch the top PCB. 8. Locate the LINE OUT jack pins. See photo:

9. With a sharp cutter, cut between the labeled points A-B and C-D. In the photo these are marked in blue. You need to cut enough to break the PCB copper path.

G D CUT CUT C A

10. Once cut, test connectivity with a tester, between points A-B and C-D to see if you did a good cut. 11. Get four shielded cables. I used them from a headphone cable and got one cable with a red wire plus the shield and a black wire with the shield. So you will end having one pair red/shield and one pair black/shield (or whatever other color). Twist the ends of the wires and paint them with tin with a well heated solder iron. 12. Solder the red wires to the tip of each of the mono phone jacks. These are points JA and JD in the schematic. Solder the shields to the ground tip. Next, solder the black wires to the switch of each of the mono phone jacks. These are the points JB and JC. 13. Ok, get one of the jacks and label it TO FX. Then solder the red wire end to pin A (it is easier to use the adjacent upper pin on that same copper path) on the PCB. Then solder the shield wire to point G (ground). Next, solder the black wire to pin B and the shield wire to point G. Get the other jack and label it FROM FX. Then solder the red wire end to pin D on the PCB. Then solder the shield wire to point G (above D). Next, solder the black wire to pin C and the shield wire to point G. See photo:

Shield Wire Red Wire Red Wire Black Wire

Shield Wire

Black Wire

14. Test connectivity with a tester between point A-B and C-D. As the circuit is closed, there should be connectivity. 15. Plug in guitar cables to both TO FX and FROM FX jacks to see it there is connectivity. When we plug we are bypassing so there shouldnt be connectivity. 16. If everything is OK, you can run a real test to see if it works. Just put the PCB back into the chassis. Only screw the heat sink. Put the chassis in the box but the other way round. Plug speaker cables and power cord. Turn on the amp and see if it is OK. If there is no re is because everything is OK!! Plug your FX unit to the TO FX jack and FROM FX jack on the amp. Now the signal should be going to your FX unit without cutting the speaker! Test it! 17. If everything is OK, unplug everything and pull out the chassis again. Screw the plated screws back to the chassis again. 18. Now you need to drill 2 holes on the chassis for the new jacks. See photo! Make them apart enough so the jacks dont overlap ( I wasnt careful enough! I recommend drilling both on the vertical line of the LINE OUT jack). Blow away any metal and plastic particles after you drill de holes. Mount the jacks.

19. Now you can mount the rest of the nuts and knob from the rear panel. Insert the chassis again in the box. Connect the speaker cables. Position rst the back lid. Then screw everything and close the box.

20. GOOD JOB SHAGGY! If everything went OK and I didnt make mistakes on the steps described, you would now have an AD30VT with an FX send and return. So you can have the amps FXs plus your external FXs unit. Pretty cool! This was a cheap and quick solution. My testings so far yielded good results. Have FUN! The Ech

See other pictures after pulling out the chassis: