Coloured

Cosmetics
05.05.2025
History
• The use of precious and semi-precious stones to be ground up and
applied to both the lips and eyelids is said to date back 5,000 years
to Mesopotamia.
• In 4,000 BC, Egyptian women used Mesdement, a dark grey lead
ore, and Galena, chemically known as lead sulphide, to color their
faces.
• Around 3,000 BC, women in Greece applied a paste of white chalk
or lead mixed with crushed fruits such as mulberries to their faces.
They also used lipsticks made of clay mixed with red iron.
• During the Renaissance, women were recorded to have used arsenic
instead of lead in their face powders, and neither was replaced until
the early 1800s.
 History
• In the early 1900s, the world witnessed
a rapid increase in the popularity of
color cosmetics, and the brands we
know today began to be established.
• New product forms emerged, such as
hair dye, mascara, the first liquid nail
polish, powder compacts, and the first
lip gloss in 1928.
• In the 1940s, leg makeup emerged as a
necessity to relieve the socks shortage
caused by World War II.
Purpose of Colored Cosmetics

• To give homogeneous color

• To cover color differences on face
• To make face and skin more attractive
Classification of Colored Cosmetics

• Powders: Face powders, baby powders

• Pressed solid formulas: Blush, pressed powders
• Oil-dispersed: Lipsticks, oil-based makeup, eyebrow pencils
• Water-dispersed: Eyeliners
• Organic solvent-dispersed pigments: Nail polishes
• Emulsion-type formulas: Foundations
Pigments
Classification of Pigmets
• First classified in the U.S. in • Organic pigments
1940
• Metallic oxides
• FDC (Food, Drug, Cosmetic)
• Complex mineral salts
• DC (Drug, Cosmetic)
• Pearls
• External DC
• Mica
Pigments
Organic Pigments
• They are carbon-based colorants. They provide a wide range of
vibrant colors, including reds, oranges, yellows, blues, greens, and
purples. These pigments are often used in a variety of makeup
products, such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blushes. Organic
pigments provide excellent color saturation and are known for their
lightfastness and resistance to fading. Examples of organic
pigments include true pigments, toners, lakes, and carbon black.
Metallic Oxides
• They are inorganic pigments derived from metal compounds. These
include iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and chromium oxide greens,
among others. Metallic oxides provide stable, opaque colors. They
are commonly used in foundations, concealers, and powders to
provide natural skin tones, radiance, and coverage.
Complex Mineral Salts
• They are another form of inorganic pigments that are obtained from
minerals through chemical processes. These pigments come in a
wide range of colors including blues, greens, purples, and navy
blues, manganese purple, Prussian blue, and bronzes. They are
often used in eye shadows, highlighters, and other cosmetic
products to create unique and vibrant shades. Complex mineral
salts can add depth and dimension to a makeup look.
Pearls
• Pearls can be both synthetic and natural and have unique properties
and applications. These pigments are composed of mica or other
substrates coated with layers of metallic oxides. Pearls can create a
variety of effects, including a soft sheen, a multidimensional shine,
or a color-shifting look. They are often used in highlighters, eye
shadows, and nail polishes to add light and sparkle.
 Mica
• It is a natural mineral derived from
silicate. It is one of the most important
mineral ingredients in cosmetics and is
widely used to add sparkle and shine.
Basically, if a product has a sparkle
effect, it is almost certainly mica or
coated mica. Since it can be ground into
a fine powder, it creates a natural
sparkling surface and can be used
safely on almost all skin types with
little or no side effects. Approximately
18% of mined mica is used in the
cosmetics and care industry. It can also
be used in skin care products to help
conceal fine lines and wrinkles.
Pigments Allowed For Eye and Around The Eye Are:

• Aluminum powder
• Bronze powder
• Carotene
• Chromium oxide green
• Iron oxides
• Mica
• Titanium dioxide
• Zinc oxide
Excipients That Enter The Formula With
Pigments
Thickeners and surfactants are added to the formula with pigments.

Organic thickeners Inorganic thickeners

• Cellulose derivatives • Natural clays (Mg-Aluminum silicate)
• Proteins • Synthetic silicas (Aerosil)
• Polysaccharides • Metal soaps (Aluminum stearate)
• Synthetic polymers (PVP)

The most commonly used surfactant to wet pigments is sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate with
a ratio of 0.05 - 0.2%
Formulation Example (Eyeshadow Formula)
Powders (g) Color Mixture (%)
• 300 Mesh talc 42.0 • Colorona Dark Blue 21
• ZnO 15.0 • Timiron Super green 5
• Mg- stearate 10.0 • Timiron Splendid Blue 10
• Perfume 0.5 • Timiron Super Gold 10
• MgCO3 24.0 • Colorona Copper Sparkle 21
• Color mixture 4.2 • Rona Pearl Dichron RB 33
POWDERS
Adjust skin tone

Brighten the skin

Protect skin from UV
radiation

Give a vibrant and

Suppressing sweat and transparent look
sebum
The Characteristics of a Good Powder

• Not harming the skin

• Easy to apply and spread
• Prevent shine
• Covering the imperfections and providing a natural look
(covering capacity)
• Good odour
 • Dust powders
• Compact powders
The main materials used are the same in both,
Basic Formulation (g) but there is a manufacturing difference.

Kaolin 15
Calcium carbonate 10
Zinc oxide 15
Zinc stearate 5
Magnesium carbonate 5
Talc 50

Face powders are formulated depending on the condition of the skin to be applied.
Considering the purpose for which it will be used, the formula is prepared to have
high covering, absorbent or adhesive properties.
Covering Capacity
It is one of the most desired features.
It provides covering of scars, spots, pores and excessive shine on the face.
Substances such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and magnesium oxide are
added to powders due to their covering power.
Titanium dioxide has three to four times the covering power of zinc oxide.
Zinc oxide has mild astringent, antiseptic and soothing properties. It can be
used as a treatment for minor skin irritations.
Absorption Capacity
The second desired feature of face powders is to absorb oil and sweat
secretion and eliminate the shine of the face.
Colloidal kaolin, starch, precipitated calcium carbonate and
magnesium carbonate etc. are used for this purpose.
Kaolin: In addition to its absorbent feature, it also has the feature of
covering the shine of the face. It is an inert and non-toxic substance. It
provides adhesion to the preparation, but it is not lubricous.
Binders
Powders are brought into mass with various binders.
• Dry binders: Metallic stearates are used.
• Oily binders: Liquid vaseline, isopropyl myristate, lanolin derivatives, etc.
are used as binders at a rate of 3-6%.
• Water-soluble binders: Tragacanth gum and gum arabic, PVP,
methylcellulose, CMC, 1-3% solutions in water can be used.
• Emulsion type binders: They are prepared by adding substances such as
nonionic emulsifiers, triethanolamine, glyceryl monostearate to the liquid
paraffin-water formula.
• Rice starch used to be the most important ingredient of powders, and was used
for its absorbent properties, covering power and smooth skin. Its use has
decreased due to its drawbacks such as sticking and swelling by absorbing
moisture, forming lumps, fermenting.
• Precipitated calcium carbonate absorbs perfume and sweat and resists oil. It can
cover the face smoothly. It has a slightly alkaline property and provides a dry
appearance by removing the slipperiness on the skin. It shouldn't be used more
than 15%.
• Magnesium carbonate; It forms the highly absorbent substance of face powders
(three times that of calcium carbonate). Its drying property is also high. It
prevents lump formation. The perfume added to the powder formulas is first
mixed with magnesium carbonate, then mixed with other powders. 5%
magnesium carbonate is sufficient for this purpose.
• Some substances such as microcrystalline cellulose (Avicel), high density
polyethylene, polymeric polyesters and polystyrenes can be added to the
formulas of modern face powders to increase their absorption power.
Flow Property of Powders
Flow properties are the ability of the powder to spread easily and create a smooth
skin. This can be achieved with talc, metallic soaps and starch.
• Talc is hydrated magnesium silicate. It is the most important ingredient of face
powders and is included in formulas at a concentration of 70% or higher. It provides
slipperiness and adhesion, but since its covering power and moisture absorption
capacity are low, it should be mixed with other powder substances.
• Talc used in face powders should not contain carbonate, which is a substance that
impairs impurity, and calcium oxide and iron oxide should be in very small
amounts (0.75%).
• Among metallic stearates, zinc and magnesium stearates are the most commonly
used in face powders. In order to prevent odor, it is desirable to use the best quality
stearates. They should be used at a concentration of 4-15%.
Adhesion strength:
Adhesion strength is an important feature desired from face powders. This feature
can be provided by substances such as talc and zinc stearate, magnesium stearate.
Softening substances such as methyl or stearyl alcohols and glyceryl monostearate
added to powders play a role in adhesives.
Mattness and natural appearance:
Calcium carbonate, rice starch, mica and kaolin in the formulation can create this
feature. Powdered silk can be used instead of some of the talc, it can spread and
stick easily and provide a velvety appearance.
Coloring of powdered powders:
Inorganic and organic pigments are used. Water and oil soluble dyes are not
recommended because they flow with sweat and oil secretion after application and
create lines. Natural and synthetic iron oxides are used from inorganic pigments.
Iron oxides are not bright. They show yellow, red, brown, green and blue colors.
They are heat resistant substances. Bright colors are provided by mixing with
organic pigments.
• In a lighter and more absorbent powder, the amount of kaolin is
reduced (10%) and the amount of carbonate is increased (calcium
carbonate 15%).

• To prepare a lighter and less covering powder, the amount of Zn-

oxide is reduced (10%), magnesium stearate is added instead of zinc
stearate. In this way, the amounts of powder material are changed,
and the desired powder properties are prepared.
Powder Formulation Example (g)
• Talc 48
• Kaolin 16
• Calcium carbonate 4
• Magnesium carbonate 4
• Zinc stearate 4
• Color 24
• Perfume q.s.
BLUSH
• They are cosmetic products that are used to
give a young and healthy appearance with
their red and pink tones, especially on the
cheeks, forehead and nose.

• Since it is used for a long time, its durability is

very important. It can be prepared in different
forms (Powder, liquid, cream).

• Liquid blushes are in 2 types:

a) Suspension type

b) Emulsion type
a) Suspension type blush
It is a suspension of pigments in an aqueous or oily medium.
Since the pigment can easily settle, substances such as PVP, polyvinyl alcohol or
CMC are added to increase the viscosity, or sorbitol can be added to delay
volatility and also to ensure that the preparation spreads easily on the face.
It may also be necessary to add a preservative such as methyl p-hydroxy benzoate.
b) Emulsion type blush:
It is a preparation form that can be applied and spread more easily. Since the
viscosity of the emulsion is high, the sedimentation of the pigments is delayed,
and this can be delayed even more with the addition of auxiliary substances.
It is prepared as an oil/water type emulsion and triethanolamine soaps, glyceryl
monostearate, sorbitan and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters are used as
emulsifiers.
The oily phase ratio should not exceed 5%.
Cream Blushes
a) Waterless creams
They are prepared with a mixture of mineral oil and waxes. Synthetic esters are also
included in the composition of modern creams. These are easier to spread on the skin
surface.
b) Emulsion type creams
Cream blushes in emulsion form can be prepared in water/oil or oil/water type. Those
prepared in water/oil type carry borax-wax or sorbitan sesquioleate and provide an oily
application due to the high amount of oily phase. Oil/water type creams are prepared with
triethanolamine stearate or a nonionic emulsifier. They carry 5-10% glycerin for easy
application and to prevent drying in the package.
LIPSTICKS
• Should color the lips
• The prepared stick should provide application without spreading,
should be soft enough to easily color the lips and should not break
during use
• The color film should stick to the lips
• It should have a suitable taste and smell
• It should be harmless
• It should look nice and be shiny
• Different types: sticks, glosses, balms and pencils
History
• It is known that some insects were used to color the lips and eyelids in
Mesopotamia 5000 years ago (They were also used to protect from the sun and
desert wind)
• In 51-30 BC, Cleopatra painted her lips red.
• Cosmetics were almost not used in Europe until the Renaissance.
• Lipsticks have been as popular from the 1920s to the present.
• Levy Tube was invented in 1915.
Felix Levy and Levy Tube
In Lipstick Formulation

• Insoluble dyes in bases (The ratio is between 3-10%)

• Dyeing dyes (The ratio is between 1-2%)
• Bases like oils of vegetable, animal, mineral and synthetic origin or waxes
• Solvents of dyeing dyes
• Antioxidant substances
• Scent and flavoring substances
Insoluble dyes
• They are in very fine powder form, have high color rendering capacity and are
harmless. They should be pure, should not fade in light, and should not be
soluble in water or oil. TiO2, an inorganic pigment, is used to adjust the color
tone.
Dyeing dyes
• They create a permanent color and color the mucous layer of the lip. Eosin is the
most commonly used. Tetra bromo fluorescein, dibromo fluorescein, tetra fluoro
fluorescein are insoluble in water and have a permanent and reddening effect on
the skin over time.
• Bases
The most commonly used are castor oil, beeswax, isopropyl myristate, diethyl
sebosate, oleyl alcohol, paraffin liquid, butyl stearate, alcohol myristates. They also
give shine to lipstick.

• Semi-solid bases
Lanolin is added at a rate of 10%. This prevents dryness of the skin. In addition,
cocoa butter, hydrogenated castor oil, solid paraffin, palm kernel oil, waxes are also
used.

Waxes; Carnauba wax, candelilla wax are waxes that provide lubrication. They also
serve to give hardness to lipstick. Ozokerite, ceresin, microcrystalline waxes are
used from mineral waxes.
• As a dye solvent

Propyl and butyl alcohol (toxic), they can cause vomiting in the product after long-term use.

• Antioxidant substances

Lip dyes develop an undesirable odor and flavor as a result of oxidative decomposition, and also a
change in color is observed and allergic reactions to the dye occur.

This decomposition occurs through the oxidation of fatty substances and the oxidation of essences.
Gallic acid and its derivatives, BHA, BHT, tocopherol are among the substances added to prevent this.

• Perfume and flavoring

Perfume is added to cover the smell of the oil base, and those with floral and spring scents are
preferred. Saccharin is used as a good flavoring.
Basic Formulation
• Beeswax 17.5% Pigments and dyes are dispersed in castor oil.
• Castor Oil 72.5% This process is done in mills.
• Pigments 10 % Elsewhere, all oils, waxes and antioxidants are
melted and dissolved.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the
dye dispersion is mixed into it.
When it is almost cool, perfume is added.
After being prepared in large molds, it is melted
and poured into small molds.
As the last process, it is passed through a flame.
This is done very quickly and ensures that the
lipstick is shiny.
Lipstick Formulation
FOUNDATIONS
• Moisturizing creams with different tones of pigments

• According to Skin Types • According to Their Coverage

(pigmentation)
Oil-based (for dry skin)
Lighteners (less than 5%)
Water-based (for all skin types)
Low covering (5-10%)
Oil-free (for oily skin)
Medium covering (10-15%)
Water-free (for long-lasting makeup)
Full covering (more than 15%)
• As a pigment: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides of different
tones
• Talc, kaolin, starch can be added to absorb sebum.
• Vegetable oils, emollients, silicones, lanolins, waxes, etc. are used in
formulations.
• Liquid forms are generally preferred.
General Formulation
• Water (40-60 percent), depending on coverage

• Humectant (1-10 percent): Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, or Glycerin

• Emulsifier (2-5 percent):

• Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, PEG 10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone,Cetyl

PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate

• Emollient/silicones (10-20 percent):

• Cyclopentasiloxane,Dimethicone, Isododecane, Phenyltrimethicone, C12-15 Alcohol Benzoate, Isononyl Isononanoate

• Shade pigments (1-5 percent): usually micronized black, umber, or russet iron oxides, which can also be coated

• Effect pigments (0-3 percent): titanated mica, Boron Nitride, Bismuth Oxychloride

• Other powders (0-5 percent):

• Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Talc, Silica,Nylon,

• Emulsion stabilizers (0.5-2 percent):

• Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyethylene, fumed Silica, Silica Silylate, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate
• Preservatives
PREPARATIONS APPLIED TO THE EYE
• The substances included in the composition of eye preparations should be pure,
harmless, non-irritating and non-toxic substances.
• The most important substances in these preparations are pigments. Inorganic
pigments and natural dyes are used.
• Iron oxides, carmine, carbon black, chromium oxides, Ultramarine blue, TiO2,
ZnO (tone adjuster).
• Aluminum and bronze powder for a shiny appearance.
• In recent years, pearlescent preparations have also been prepared with guanine,
bioxychloride, CaCO3, mica and TiO2.
• Precautions must be taken against microbial contamination in eye makeup
products.
• For this purpose, a hygienic environment must be provided in the raw material,
production environment, packaging materials and the period after the product is
prepared, in a way that prevents contamination during consumer use.
• Among the substances used may be solid vaseline, carnauba wax, beeswax,
stearic acid, propylene glycol, tragacanth gum, methyl cellulose, isopropyl
myristate.
• In addition, preservatives and additional perfumes can be added to ensure that
the preparations can be stored for a long time.
 Eye Shadows
• They are available in cream, pencil, liquid and powder forms.
• Creams
• a) Melting creams (the most commonly used and melt at body temperature)
They should be easy to spread and should be able to color the eyelid where applied.
They are durable preparations that can be easily prepared and filled.
White vaseline 65%
Anhydrous lanolin 5%
White ceresin 10%
Beeswax 5%
Paraffin liquid 15%
10-20% pigment is added to the formula.
• b) Emulsion type creams
Eyelash Dyes (Mascara)

• These are preparations used to change the color of eyelashes, make them look
longer and increase the beauty of the eyes.It should:
Be easy to apply
Not flake
Not be sticky
Not stick eyelashes together
Not spread around the eyes
Not flow easily with tears and rain
• Eye-liner: Those used to define the eye lines are mostly prepared in the form of block
mascara. There are solid and liquid ones.
• Solids are like block mascara.
• Liquids contain water-soluble and film-forming substances, pigments, viscosity-
increasing substances.
• Film-forming substances include cellulose derivatives, PVP, PVA, etc.
• Liquids are anhydrous and contain pigments, oils, and waxes.

• Eyebrow pencils: The preparation applied to define or change the shape of the
eyebrow is in the form of a black or brown wax stick or pencil.
• A high percentage of pigment is dispersed in a wax base.
• It should be formulated in a way that it can be applied easily and homogeneously.