PROFESSIONAL PRACTICE

JOURNAL

NAME:- DARSHANA MEHTA

YEAR TYGPT
 6 INCH BRICK MANSORY

1. Introduction
•Brick masonry is the process of building structures by
systematically arranging bricks and binding them with mortar.
•A 6-inch (150 mm) thick brick wall is one of the most widely
used wall types in residential, institutional, and commercial
construction.
•Such walls may serve as:
• Partition walls (non-load bearing, internal divisions).
• Load-bearing walls (in small houses and boundary walls).
• Infill walls in RCC framed structures.
•The term INVH is often linked to English Bond masonry in Very
Hard burnt bricks (high strength, durable bricks).
•Brick masonry has been in use since ancient civilizations (Indus
Valley, Egyptian, Roman), proving its durability and reliability.
Characteristics of 6-Inch Brick Masonry
1.Wall Thickness:
1. Nominal 150 mm (actual size may be 115 mm + mortar → 150
mm).
2. Ensures moderate strength and stability.
2.Bonding Pattern:
1. English Bond (alternate stretcher and header course) –
strongest.
2. Stretcher Bond – common in partition/non-load walls.
3. Provides interlocking of bricks for structural integrity.
3.Compressive Strength:
1. Depends on brick quality (3.5–10.5 N/mm² for burnt clay bricks).
2. Cement mortar enhances load-carrying capacity.
4.Durability:
1. Very high if bricks are well-burnt (Class A bricks).
2. Resistant to fire, weather, and pests.
5.Fire Resistance:
1. Excellent – can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C.
2. Suitable for fire-rated partitions.
6.Thermal & Acoustic Performance:
1. Provides moderate insulation (better if cavity/insulated).
2. Reduces sound transmission between rooms.
7.Water Resistance:
1. Porous material; must be plastered/pointed to resist seepage.
8.Workability:
1. Easy to construct, modify, or repair.
Materials Required
1.Bricks
1. Burnt clay bricks (standard size: 190 × 90 × 90 mm; nominal:
200 × 100 × 100 mm).
2. Fly ash bricks (lightweight, uniform, eco-friendly).
3. Must meet IS 1077 specifications (for strength, efflorescence,
water absorption).
2.Mortar
1. Cement-sand mortar (1:4 for load-bearing; 1:6 for partition
walls).
2. Mortar thickness: 10 mm.
3. Functions: binds bricks, distributes load, seals gaps.
3.Water
1. Clean, potable water.
2. Used for soaking bricks and mortar preparation.
4.Additives (if required)
1. Lime (improves workability).
2. Waterproofing compounds.
3. Plasticizers (improve bonding).

Tools Used in Brick Masonry

1.Trowel – Spreading and shaping mortar.
2.Brick Hammer / Bolster – Cutting and dressing bricks.
3.Spirit Level – Checking horizontal alignment.
4.Plumb Bob – Checking vertical alignment.
5.Line & Pins – Maintaining straightness of courses.
6.Mason’s Square – Ensuring right angles at corners.
7.Joint Raker – Removing excess mortar from joints.
8.Mortar Pan / Bucket – Carrying mortar to the site.
9.Measuring Tape – Dimension control.
10.Wheelbarrow – Transporting materials.
Process of 6-Inch Brick Masonry Construction
1.Site Preparation
1. Surface cleaned, leveled, and marked.
2. Base concrete (PCC) or damp-proof course (DPC) laid.
2.Brick Soaking
1. Bricks soaked in water for 30 minutes.
2. Prevents absorption of water from mortar.
3.Mortar Preparation
1. Cement and sand mixed in dry state (ratio 1:4 / 1:6).
2. Water added gradually to make workable paste.
4.Laying the First Course
1. First row (course) laid with utmost care.
2. Checked with spirit level for alignment and leveling.
5.Subsequent Courses
1. Bricks placed with mortar bed (10 mm thick).
2. Joints staggered to maintain bond.
3. Excess mortar removed from face.
6.Bonding
1. English Bond: alternate header and stretcher courses → strong
and stable.
2. Stretcher Bond: only stretchers visible → used for thin walls.

1.Site Preparation

1.Brick Soaking
1.Checking Alignment
1. Verticality checked with plumb bob.
2. Straightness checked with line and pins.
2.Jointing & Finishing
1. Mortar joints raked 10–15 mm deep for plastering.
2. If wall is exposed (no plaster), joints neatly tooled
(flush/struck).
3.Curing
1. Wall sprinkled with water for 7–10 days.
2. Prevents cracks, ensures strength development.
4.Final Checks
•Ensure thickness is uniform (150 mm).
•Openings for doors/windows left as per plan.
•Proper bonding at junctions and corners.

Laying the First Course

Checking Alignment Jointing & Finishing

 Flooring in Living Room
Introduction
•Flooring is the base surface of a living room that defines its
aesthetics, comfort, functionality, and durability.
•Since the living room is the most used and visible area of a
house, flooring must balance visual appeal, maintenance ease,
and strength.
•It sets the tone of interior design – modern, traditional, rustic,
luxurious, or minimal.

Key Characteristics of Living Room Flooring

•Durability: Must withstand foot traffic, furniture load, and wear.
•Aesthetics: Should complement furniture, wall colors, and lighting.
•Comfort: Flooring should feel good underfoot (warm, smooth, safe).
•Acoustics: Helps in sound absorption/reduction (tiles vs. wood vs.
carpet differ).
•Maintenance: Easy to clean and long-lasting.
•Cost-effectiveness: Options vary from budget-friendly (vitrified tiles)
to luxury (marble, hardwood).
Materials Commonly Used in Living Room Flooring
(A) Hard Flooring Options
1.Marble Flooring
1. Premium, luxurious, glossy.
2. Available in Indian (Makrana, Bansari) & Italian marble.
3. Pros: High-end look, long-lasting.
4. Cons: Expensive, porous, needs polishing.
2.Granite Flooring
1. Extremely durable, scratch and stain resistant.
2. Shiny, bold textures.
3. Pros: Strong, long life.
4. Cons: Cold feel, costly.
3.Vitrified Tiles
1. Most popular modern choice.
2. Available in matte, glossy, digital prints, wood/stone looks.
3. Pros: Affordable, low maintenance.
4. Cons: Can be slippery, joints visible.
4.Wooden Flooring (Engineered or Solid Timber)
1. Warm, cozy, natural aesthetics.
2. Pros: Elegant, enhances interiors.
3. Cons: Sensitive to moisture, needs maintenance.
5.Polished Concrete
1. Modern, industrial look.
2. Durable, seamless, customizable finishes.
3. Pros: Low cost, easy cleaning.
4. Cons: Cold and hard surface.
(B) Soft Flooring Options
1.Carpet Flooring
1. Comfortable, soft, cozy.
2. Enhances acoustics and warmth.
3. Pros: Variety in color and texture.
4. Cons: Difficult to clean, absorbs dust.
2.Rugs (as add-ons)
1. Not full flooring, but layered over tiles/wood.
2. Adds accent, warmth, and comfort.

Selection Factors
When choosing living room flooring, consider:
•Climate – Wood suits cold climates; tiles/marble suit hot
climates.
•Usage – Heavy footfall → vitrified/granite; luxury spaces →
marble.
•Budget – Tiles (₹80–200/sqft), Marble (₹250–1000/sqft+),
Wood (₹350–1200/sqft).
•Maintenance – Low (tiles, granite) vs. high (marble, carpet).
•Style – Modern (tiles, concrete), Traditional (marble, wood),
Cozy (carpet).
Tools & Materials Required
•Tiles/Marble/Wood planks.
•Adhesive / Cement Mortar.
•Grout / Sealer.
•Cutting machine, Trowel, Spirit level, Rubber mallet, Spacer clips.
•Polishing/Grinding machines (for marble/granite).

Process of Living Room Flooring Installation

1.Surface Preparation – Clean, level, and cure the RCC
slab/subfloor.
2.Base Layer – Apply sand-cement mortar bed (25–40 mm thick).
3.Laying
1. Tiles/Marble: Laid with adhesive/mortar, gaps maintained
using spacers.
2. Wood: Installed with tongue-and-groove or click-lock
system.
3. Carpet: Fixed with adhesive or stretched with tack strips.
Finishing
Joints filled with grout/sealant.
Marble/Granite → Grinding & Polishing.
Wood → Polishing/Varnishing.
Curing – Wet curing for cement-based floors (7 days).
Inspection – Check alignment, level, color variation.

Advantages & Disadvantages

Advantages
•Wide variety of materials & finishes.
•Can suit any style (luxury, modern, rustic).
•Enhances home value.
Disadvantages
•High-end flooring (marble/wood) needs maintenance.
•Improper selection (slippery tiles, delicate wood) can
cause long-term issues.

Trends in Living Room Flooring (2025)

•Large-format tiles (800×1600 mm).
•Sustainable flooring (bamboo, recycled tiles).
•Matte finish vitrified tiles.
•Warm-toned engineered wood.
•Patterned flooring (herringbone wood, Moroccan tiles).
•Minimalist polished concrete.
 PANELLING

Paneling in Interior Design

1. Introduction
•Definition: Paneling is the decorative or functional covering of
walls, ceilings, or furniture surfaces with flat or shaped sheets of
wood, MDF, PVC, metal, fabric, glass, or other materials.
•Purpose: Enhances aesthetics, conceals imperfections, improves
acoustics, adds insulation, and provides design flexibility.
•Applications: Homes (living rooms, bedrooms), offices, hotels,
restaurants, auditoriums, retail stores

Materials Used in Panelling

1.Wood / Veneer
1. Solid wood (teak, oak, maple, walnut) or thin veneer sheets
pasted on ply.
2.MDF / HDF (Medium/High Density Fibreboard)
1. Engineered wood sheets with smooth surface for
painting/lamination.
3.Plywood
1. Strong base material, used with laminates or veneers.
4.PVC & UPVC
1. Lightweight, water-resistant, cost-effective.
5.Gypsum Board
1. For ceilings/walls, often painted or laminated.

Veneer PVC & UPVC

Metal (Aluminium, Steel, Copper)
1. Used in modern, industrial-style interiors.
Fabric / Leatherette
1. Soft panels for acoustics and luxury look.
Glass / Mirror
For reflective, spacious feel.
Stone / Marble Laminate
1. Heavy-duty, luxury panelling.
Composite Panels (ACP, WPC)
1. Lightweight, durable, weather-resistant.

Metal Leatherette

Stone Glass / Mirror

3. Pros & Cons of Panelling
Pros
•Enhances aesthetics & adds design character.
•Covers uneven walls, wiring, insulation.
•Provides thermal and acoustic insulation.
•Wide material, texture, and finish options.
•Increases property value & durability.
•Easy installation (modular panels).
Cons
•Costly (premium materials like wood/veneer, stone).
•Moisture sensitivity (wood, MDF may warp).
•Requires maintenance (polishing, cleaning).
•Can reduce room space slightly due to thickness.
•If not fire-retardant, fire safety issue.

Types of Panelling
1.Wood Panelling – Traditional, luxurious, warm feel.
2.Wainscoting – Wooden panels on lower half of walls.
3.Beadboard Panelling – Vertical grooved strips, cottage
style.
4.Raised Panelling – 3D effect with framed & raised centres.
5.Shiplap Panelling – Horizontal wooden boards with
grooves.
6.MDF / Laminate Panelling – Budget-friendly, modern look.
7.Fabric/Leather Upholstered Panels – Acoustic & luxury
feel.
8.Decorative 3D Wall Panels – Gypsum, MDF, PVC, stone
textures.
9.Metal Panels – Industrial or high-tech design.
10.Glass / Mirror Panels – Modern, creates illusion of space.
 Wainscoting Wood Panelling

Beadboard Panelling Raised Panelling

Process of Paneling
1. Surface Preparation
•Cleaning: Remove dust, dirt, grease, old paint, or wallpaper from
the wall/ceiling.
•Levelling: If the wall has cracks, uneven plaster, or dampness, it
must be repaired. Uneven surfaces affect panel alignment.
•Moisture Protection: Apply primer, waterproofing, or anti-termite
treatment, especially for wood/MDF panels in humid areas.
•Marking:
• Use a laser level or chalk line to mark vertical and
horizontal lines.
• These act as guidelines for the frame, ensuring panels stay
straight and aligned.
2. Framework / Base Construction
•Material Choice:
• Wooden battens – traditional, easy to fix, but sensitive to
moisture.
• Aluminum or steel sections – more durable, fire-resistant, and
moisture-proof.
•Installation:
• Battens fixed on walls with screws, nails, or wall plugs at
intervals (300–600 mm).
• A small gap (10–20 mm) is left between the wall and the
framework for ventilation, insulation, or wiring.
•Level Checking:
• Use a spirit level/plumb bob to make sure battens are
perfectly vertical & horizontal.
• Any misalignment here will affect the panel finish.
3. Cutting & Preparing Panels
•Measurement: Measure wall dimensions accurately, leaving 2–
3 mm gap for expansion.
•Cutting:
• Wood, plywood, MDF – cut with circular saw/jigsaw.
• PVC/ACP – cut with cutter or saw.
• Glass/Stone – cut with specialized tools.
•Edge Treatment:
• Apply veneer tape, laminate edge banding, or polish to
exposed sides.
• Bevel or groove edges if tongue-and-groove joints are
needed.
•Pre-Finishing:
• Some panels (veneer, laminate, lacquered glass) are pre-
finished before installation.
• Raw wood panels may be polished/painted after fixing
 4. Fixing the Panels
•Methods of Fixing:
• Adhesive fixing – Panels glued directly to battens (for
PVC, laminate sheets).
• Mechanical fixing – Screws, nails, or concealed clips
used (for MDF, plywood, metal, gypsum).
• Tongue & Groove system – Panels interlock, giving
seamless finish.
•Expansion Gaps: Leave 2–5 mm between panels and at edges
to accommodate expansion/shrinkage due to humidity.
•Alignment: First panel acts as a reference; every subsequent
panel follows its alignment

5. Joint Treatment
•Types of Joints:
• Butt joint: Two panels meet edge to edge.
• Grooved joint: Decorative groove at the intersection.
• Moulding/Trim joint: Wooden/metal strips cover the joint.
•Finishing the Joint:
• Apply putty, caulk, or filler to seal gaps.
• For fabric/leather panels – seams are stitched or
overlapped.
• For modular systems – joints remain as design feature (e.g.,
shiplap, beadboard).
Finishing
•Wood/Veneer Panels: Sand → stain → polish →
PU/melamine/varnish coat.
•MDF Panels: Paint (acrylic/PU), laminate, or veneer finish.
•PVC Panels: Usually pre-finished; just wipe clean.
•Fabric/Leather Panels: Material stretched and stapled or
glued to the panel.
•Stone/Glass Panels: Polished edges, sometimes sealed with
silicon.
•Protective Coat: Always apply a final protective coat for
durability.

7. Inspection & Handover

•Check Alignment – all panels must be straight and flush.
•Check Finish – no scratches, stains, or gaps.
•Check Safety – fire-retardant coating (if required in public
spaces).
•Final Cleaning – remove dust, adhesive stains, polish
residue.
 9 inch BRICK MANSONARY

9-inch brick masonry, or double-wythe brickwork, involve detailed

requirements for materials, workmanship, and construction
procedures to ensure strength and durability. The common standards
for this type of masonry construction are provided by industry and
national bodies like the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) and the
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

2. Characteristics
1.Thickness – 230 mm (nominal), actual thickness after
plaster ≈ 260–280 mm.
2.Strength – Can resist high compressive loads (approx. 3.5–
10 N/mm² depending on brick type).
3.Durability – Resistant to weathering and impact.
4.Insulation – Provides better thermal comfort and acoustic
resistance compared to 4.5-inch walls.
5.Stability – Stable against lateral loads like wind.
6.Fire Resistance – Brick walls are non-combustible and
provide good fire resistance.
7.Maintenance – Requires plastering/pointing for finish and
longer lif
3. Materials
1.Bricks
1. Standard size (190 × 90 × 90 mm actual; with mortar 200 ×
100 × 100 mm).
2. Types: Burnt clay, fly ash bricks, AAC blocks, concrete
blocks (depending on project).
3. Bricks must be well-burnt, uniform in size, free of cracks.
2.Mortar
1. Cement: Sand ratio = 1:6 (commonly).
2. For higher strength: 1:4.
3. For load-bearing walls, cement mortar is preferred over
lime mortar.
3.Water
1. For soaking bricks (to prevent dry bricks from absorbing
mortar water).
2. For mixing mortar.

Bond Patterns for 9-inch Walls

Bond is the arrangement of bricks to distribute load evenly.
Common bonds for 9-inch brickwork:
1.English Bond – Alternate courses of headers and stretchers.
2.Flemish Bond – Each course has alternate header and stretcher.
3.Stretcher Bond – Usually for half-brick walls, but in 9-inch wall
used for partition with reinforced brickwork.
4.Header Bond – Shorter face (header) visible, used in curved
walls.
4. Tools Used in 9-inch Brickwork
•Mason’s Trowel – For spreading and shaping mortar.
•Plumb Bob – To check vertical alignment.
•Spirit Level – To check horizontality.
•Brick Hammer – For cutting and shaping bricks.
•Line & Pins – To maintain straightness of courses.
•Mason’s Square – For right-angled corners.
•Mortar Pan (Ghamela) – For carrying mortar.
•Measuring Tape/Ruler – For measurement.
•Straight Edge – To check alignment.

Mason’s Trowel Plumb Bob

 Spirit Level Brick Hammer

Line & Pins Mason’s Square

Mortar Pan
PROCESS
1. Preparation and site setup
• Mark the layout: Use stakes and a string line to accurately mark the wall's
location and dimensions on the foundation. For a 9-inch wall, the width of
the footing should exceed the wall's thickness to provide a stable base.
• Inspect and prepare the foundation: The foundation must be level,
clean, and structurally sound. For new construction, this typically
involves a cured concrete footing. For retrofits, the existing foundation
must be reinforced or repaired as needed.
• Soak the bricks: Before laying, submerge bricks in water for at least 2
hours. This prevents them from absorbing moisture from the mortar,
which could weaken the bond.
• Mix the mortar: Combine cement and sand in the appropriate ratio
(often 1:4 for load-bearing walls) and add clean water gradually until
you achieve a workable, uniform consistency.

2. Laying the First Course

•Place a damp proof course (DPC) on top of the foundation to
block rising moisture.
•Spread the first mortar bed about 10 mm thick along the layout
line.
•Lay the corner bricks first, building them up by a few courses as
reference guides.
•Use a spirit level to check that corner bricks are plumb and level.
•Begin laying the first course from the corner.
•In English bond, the first course is made entirely of headers, with
a queen closer placed next to the corner header to maintain
proper bonding.
 Mark the layout
Soak the bricks

Mix the mortar . Laying the First Course

Laying Subsequent Courses

•Mortar spread uniformly (10–12 mm thick).
•Bricks placed gently with frog (if any) facing upward.
•Joints filled fully with mortar → no hollowness.
•Vertical joints staggered (overlap ≥ 1/4th brick).
•Proper bond pattern maintained.
•Excess mortar cut off for neatness.
4. Finishing and Curing
•Do not raise the wall more than 1.5 meters in a single
day to allow the mortar to set properly.
•Once the mortar has partially set, use a brick jointer to
tool the joints. This compresses the mortar, makes
joints weather-resistant, and gives a clean finish.
•Provide a coping or soldier course at the top of the
wall to protect it from rainwater penetration.
•Cure the wall for at least 7 days by sprinkling or
misting water to allow the mortar to achieve maximum
strength

CLEANING WITH BRUSH CURING

 False Ceiling
A false ceiling, also called a dropped ceiling, secondary ceiling, or
suspended ceiling, is a secondary layer of ceiling installed below the
main structural ceiling of a room. It is usually suspended with the
help of a framework made of metal, wood, or other supporting
systems. The gap between the main ceiling and the false ceiling is
used to conceal electrical wiring, ductwork, or piping, while also
offering improved aesthetics and functional benefits.

Materials Used in False Ceiling

False ceilings can be constructed with a variety of materials
depending on function, aesthetics, cost, and durability. Each material
has its own properties, advantages, and ideal applications.
1. Gypsum Board
Gypsum is the most common material for false ceilings. It is
lightweight, fire-resistant, and gives a smooth finish. Gypsum boards
are factory-made panels fixed on a metal framework.
•Properties: Non-combustible, good sound insulation, easy to paint
and decorate.
•Uses: Modern homes, offices, hotels, auditoriums.
2. Plaster of Paris (POP)
POP is a quick-setting material derived from gypsum. It is applied in
semi-liquid form on a mesh or wooden framework to create
seamless designs.
•Properties: Lightweight, easily moldable into curves, patterns, and
decorative details.
•Uses: Homes, showrooms, restaurants where decorative detailing is
required.
3. Wood
Wooden false ceilings bring warmth and elegance. They are usually
made from natural timber, plywood, veneer, or MDF panels.
5. PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
PVC panels are lightweight, inexpensive, and resistant to moisture,
making them suitable for humid areas.
•Properties: Termite-proof, waterproof, easy to clean, available in
various colors and textures.
•Uses: Kitchens, bathrooms, basements, budget-friendly interiors.
6. Glass
Glass panels are sometimes used as a decorative false ceiling option.
They can be clear, frosted, stained, or backlit to enhance aesthetics.
•Properties: Reflects light, makes spaces look bigger, modern appeal.
•Uses: Offices, restaurants, hotels, creative workspaces.
7. Fibre (Mineral Fibre / Acoustic Tiles)
Fibre tiles are manufactured using synthetic or natural minerals. They
are primarily used for acoustic control.
•Properties: Excellent sound absorption, thermal insulation,
lightweight.
•Uses: Auditoriums, conference rooms, theaters, recording studios.
8. Cloth or Fabric
Fabric can also be stretched over a framework to form a temporary
decorative ceiling.
•Properties: Soft texture, allows creative lighting effects, not durable.
•Uses: Exhibition halls, temporary installations, event decoration.

Gypsum Board Wood

Advantages (Pros) of False Ceiling
1.Aesthetic Appeal
1. Enhances the interior look by hiding beams, pipes,
wiring, and ducts.
2. Allows for stylish designs, patterns, and lighting effects.
2.Concealment of Services
1. Conceals electrical wiring, AC ducts, fire sprinklers, and
other utility lines, giving a neat finish.
3.Thermal Insulation & Energy Efficiency
1. The air gap between the main ceiling and false ceiling
helps maintain room temperature.
2. Reduces cooling/heating loads in air-conditioned
spaces, lowering energy costs.
4.Acoustic Benefits
1. Certain materials (like gypsum, fibre, POP) improve
soundproofing and reduce noise levels.
5.Lighting Flexibility
1. Allows installation of recessed lights, LED strips,
spotlights, and chandeliers seamlessly.
6.Fire & Moisture Resistance
1. Fire-resistant and moisture-resistant materials can be
chosen depending on the space.
7.Versatility of Materials
1. Wide range of choices such as gypsum, POP, wood,
metal, PVC, or fibre tiles to suit budgets and themes.
Disadvantages (Cons) of False Ceiling
1.Height Reduction
1. Since it hangs below the main ceiling, it reduces the
room’s height.
2. Not suitable for small rooms with low ceilings.
2.Cost Factor
1. Increases construction and design cost, especially with
premium materials like wood or metal.
3.Maintenance Issues
1. May develop cracks (POP/gypsum) or sagging if not
installed properly.
2. Wooden ceilings are prone to termites and moisture
damage.
4.Durability Concerns
1. Lightweight materials like POP and gypsum may not
withstand heavy impact.
2. Requires regular inspection in areas with moisture
leakage.
5.Installation Complexity
1. Requires skilled labor for proper framework and finishing.
2. Mistakes in alignment can cause uneven surfaces.
6.Moisture Sensitivity
1. In damp or humid areas, gypsum and POP can absorb
moisture and weaken over time.
2. Needs moisture-proof materials like PVC or treated metal
in such conditions.
 Process of False Ceiling Installation

1. Planning and Design

•The ceiling layout is prepared according to room dimensions, lighting
design, and service requirements (AC ducts, wiring, fire sprinklers,
etc.).
•Materials (gypsum, POP, wood, metal, PVC, etc.) are selected based
on budget, function, and aesthetics.
•Ceiling height is finalized, usually lowering the original height by 6–12
inches
2. Marking the Ceiling Level
•A laser level or chalk line is used to mark the desired height of the
false ceiling around the room’s perimeter.
•This ensures uniformity and precision in installation.

3.Fixing the Framework

•Metal framework (aluminum or galvanized iron channels) or
wooden battens are fixed to the main ceiling using screws,
suspension rods, and fasteners.
•Perimeter channels are fixed on the wall according to the marked
line.
•Intermediate channels are suspended with hangers/rods at intervals
(usually 3–4 ft apart).
•This framework forms the skeleton of the false ceiling.
 Placing the Ceiling Panels
•Gypsum boards, POP sheets, PVC, or wooden panels are cut to
size and fixed onto the framework using screws or adhesives.
•Panels are placed carefully to avoid gaps or uneven joints.
•In case of POP false ceilings, a mesh is placed, and POP slurry is
applied over it to form a smooth surface.

Electrical & Lighting Work

•Spaces are cut for recessed lights, spotlights, or AC vents.
•Electrical wiring, ducts, and pipes are concealed within the ceiling
gap.
•Switches and control panels are connected before final finishing
Finishing the Surface
•Joints between boards are taped and filled with jointing
compound for a seamless finish.
•Sanding is done to achieve a smooth surface.
•Final finishes like painting, wallpaper, veneer, laminate, or
texture are applied.

Inspection & Final Touch

•The ceiling is checked for level accuracy, stability, and cracks.
•Lighting is tested, and minor corrections are made.
•Decorative elements (moldings, trims, LED strips) are added if
required.
 PARTITION
Partition – Introduction
A partition is a non-load-bearing element used to divide, separate,
or define spaces within a building. Unlike walls, partitions do not
carry structural loads other than their own weight. They are
extensively used in offices, conference rooms, hotels, retail spaces,
and homes to create functional zones while maintaining flexibility
in space planning. Modern partitions are not only functional but
also contribute significantly to the aesthetic appeal of interiors.
Partitions can be made from a variety of materials including glass,
wood, metal, gypsum, plywood, MDF, and fabric panels.
Depending on the material and type, partitions can provide varying
levels of sound insulation, privacy, light transmission, and visual
appeal.

Characteristics of Partitions
1.Non-Load Bearing: Partitions do not support the structural load
of the building.
2.Flexibility: Many partitions are movable or modular, allowing
easy reconfiguration of space.
3.Lightweight: Partitions are generally lighter than permanent
walls, making them easier to install and modify.
4.Aesthetic Element: They enhance interior décor with diverse
materials, textures, and finishes.
5.Acoustic Properties: Depending on the material, partitions can
offer sound insulation to maintain privacy.
6.Temporary or Permanent: Partitions can be fixed or temporary,
depending on the design requirements.
7.Cost-Effective: Generally, partitions are more economical than
constructing permanent walls.
Glass Sheet Partition Wall Hollow Glass Block
Partition Wal

Metal Lath Partition Wall Wood-Wool Partition Wall

. Drywall Partitions:
Drywall partitions are lightweight and made of gypsum boards,
making them easy to install and finish. They provide smooth
surfaces suitable for painting or wallpaper, are fire-resistant, and
ideal for office cabins and residential interiors. However, they
have low impact resistance and are sensitive to moisture.
2. Glass Partitions:
Glass partitions offer a modern, sleek look and can be
transparent, frosted, or tinted. They allow natural light to pass
through, creating a sense of openness, and are commonly used in
offices, conference rooms, and showrooms. Glass requires careful
handling, regular cleaning, and may limit privacy if not frosted.
3. Wood Partitions:
Wooden partitions, made from solid wood, plywood, or MDF,
provide strength, durability, and a warm, elegant aesthetic. They
can be customized with veneers, laminates, or carvings and are
often used in hotels, luxury interiors, and offices. They are
heavier, sensitive to moisture, and can be costly.
4. Concrete Block Partitions:
Concrete block partitions are rigid and strong, offering excellent
durability, thermal insulation, and soundproofing. They are
suitable for industrial or permanent commercial spaces. These
partitions are heavy, time-consuming to construct, and lack
flexibility.
5. Movable / Modular Partitions:
Movable partitions are prefabricated panels that can slide, fold,
or be reconfigured to adapt spaces as needed. They combine
functionality with design flexibility and are widely used in open-
plan offices, hotels, and exhibition areas. They are less
permanent, may require maintenance, and provide limited
soundproofing.
1. Drywall
•Pros: Lightweight, easy to install, smooth finish, cost-effective.
•Cons: Low durability, moisture-sensitive, not load-bearing.
2. Glass
•Pros: Modern, allows light, visually open, aesthetic.
•Cons: Fragile, needs cleaning, limited privacy, costly.
3. Wood
•Pros: Strong, customizable, warm and elegant.
•Cons: Heavy, moisture-sensitive, expensive, needs maintenance.
4. Concrete Block
•Pros: Durable, sound & thermal insulation, fire-resistant.
•Cons: Heavy, permanent, labor-intensive, inflexible.
5. Movable / Modular
•Pros: Flexible, quick installation, reconfigurable, multipurpose.
•Cons: Less permanent, limited soundproofing, maintenance required
1. Planning & Measurement:
•Assess space requirements and layout.
•Decide the partition type (drywall, glass, wood, concrete,
movable).
•Take precise measurements for height, width, and openings

2. Material Preparation:
•Procure panels, frames, hardware, and finishing materials.
•Cut panels or blocks to required sizes
3. Frame Installation (if applicable):
•Install the supporting frame (metal studs, wooden frame, or
aluminum tracks) to floor, ceiling, and walls.
•Ensure alignment, levelness, and stability

Panel / Wall Construction:

•Drywall: Screw gypsum boards to the frame; tape and finish
joints.
•Glass: Fix glass panels using clamps, studs, or silicone; secure
edges.
•Wood: Attach wooden panels or boards to the frame; laminate
or finish as needed.
•Concrete Block: Lay blocks with mortar; ensure level joints.
•Movable/Modular: Install prefabricated panels; fix sliding or
folding mechanisms.
5. Finishing:
•Apply paint, veneer, laminate, or decorative finishes.
•Seal joints for a clean appearance and soundproofing.
•Install doors, handles, or hardware if required.

6. Inspection & Adjustment:

•Check alignment, stability, and finish quality.
•Adjust movable partitions or doors for smooth operation.