RSTech Belt Drive Conversion installation instructions

Royal Enfield Interceptor 650

Royal Enfield Continental 650

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System components:
There are 3 system components –
front pulley, rear pulley and the
drive belt.

The belt is a Gates Poly Chain

Carbon GT, part number 14MGT-
1750-20, and available from Gates
Dealers worldwide

The Interceptor and Continental

pullies are available in either the
stock ratio, or the higher geared
“16T” mod.

Gearing can be a bit confusing, as higher gearing = lower engine rpm at highway speed.
There is a discussion about gearing on the RSTech website at [Link]
showing the following chart:

Speed kph(mph) rpm stock gearing rpm higher gearing

100(62) 4140 3890
110(68) 4560 4280
120(74.5) 4890 4670
124(77) 5150 TQ peak
130(81) 5400 5050
132(82) 5150 TQ peak
140(87) 5910 5450

Belt kit installation torque settings:

Front pulley nut = 145 Nm / 107 ft./lbs.

Rear axle nut = 70 Nm / 52 ft./lbs
Rear pulley carrier bolts = 45 Nm / 33 ft./lbs
Swingarm spindle nut = 100 Nm / 74 ft./lbs
Swingarm axial adjuster = 3 Nm / 26.5 in/lbs

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Manuals and Video:

See [Link] to download:

Royal Enfield Factory Service Manual
Royal Enfield Training Manual
Torque settings
RSTech Installation Instructions
Teacher T. Thailand belt drive installation videos, for a brief overview of the procedure,
and as a supplement to these instructions.

Tools:
You will require the proper tools for normal
motorcycle service work, including torque
wrenches. If in doubt, refer to the Factory
Service Manual. Unless you have a belt
drive tension tool you will need to buy one.
I use my old Harley one, Part Number
40006-85. Also made by Motion Pro, OTC,
and a host of generic versions. Buy one with
a 10 lb applied force indication.

Axial runout:

The rear sprocket/pulley is mounted on a cush drive, with machining tolerances, and
movement in both the rubber cush and bearings contributing to axial runout at the rear pulley.
Unless you have very low km bike, new cush drive rubbers, new quality wheel bearings and
new quality carrier bearings, are highly recommended in order to control runout.

Interceptor / Conti wheel bearings are 6203-2RS with a 22 x 40 x 8mm seal. The stock
carrier bearing is a 6205-2RS with a 30 x 52 x 7mm seal.
Cush drive rubbers are part RAT00035 – sometimes priced ea. so make sure that you get 4 pcs.

The RE Factory Service Manual says to “inspect and replace” the cush drive rubbers at
20,000 km which is a bit surprising, and perhaps a hint that it is a good idea to change them
now while you are in there.

Tyre Size:

This kit has been designed to fit without interference on the stock Interceptor / Conti-
nental 130/70/18 tyre. It will also fit a 17” wheel with a 150/70/17 tyre, or a taller 140/70/18
with the '16T” gearing option.
One Rider is running a much taller 130/80/18 with standard gearing, but had to remove the
centre stand
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Procedure:

We assume that you are experienced working on motorcycles. If you are not
comfortable doing this job, find a helper that does, or take it to a shop familar with belt
drive installation. Installation time is 1.5 – 2 hours

1. Depending on your exhaust system, you may need to remove the mufflers for access.
2. Remove the shifter linkage and bracket, paying attention so that you re-install in the
same position
3. Detach the rear brake master cylinder for access to the swingarm pivot spindle.
4. Remove the rear wheel.
5. Remove the plastic frame plugs to expose the swingarm pivot spindle nut, remove the
nut, and pull the pivot spindle. The swingarm will now drop out. Note the factory axial play
adjustor so that you can re-install the swingarm with minimal axial play. It will also allow
adjustment for parallel wheel alignment - spec is 1.5mm per the manual.

The Interceptor / Continental swingarm axial adjuster looks like this:

Torque on this adjuster is only 3 Nm / 26.5 in/lbs. There is a factory tool ST30269A, but
an experienced mechanic could adjust to zero axial play, while the swingarm is still free to
move. Always check for axial play and freedom of movement across the entire range of travel,
after torqueing the nut.

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 If the tool is unavailable, one could easily make a tool from a deep socket to look like this:

Lube the Inter/Conti needle bearings in the swing arm, and grease the shaft. Use blue
Locktight when re-installing the pivot spindle nut.

6. Remove the chain, and chain rubbing block from the swingarm.
7. Install the belt and re-install the swingarm, torqueing the pivot spindle nut to 100 Nm /
74 ft./lbs.
8. Remove the front sprocket cover
9. Pry back the front sprocket locking washer – make sure it is completely clear. I use an
impact gun to remove the RH (normal) thread sprocket nut, however a breaker bar will work if
you have a helper to hold the rear brake as you loosen the nut.
10. Remove the carrier from the hub, and sprocket from the carrier. Now is a good time
for new quality bearings in the carrier and wheels. Install the drive side wheel bearing first.
New cush drive rubbers are highly recommended, and make sure that the pockets are
clean.
The rear pulley is installed flange out. The Inter / Conti sprocket carrier bolts, are
grade 8.8, and may be re-used with thin stainless flat washers on both sides. Use blue
Locktight, and torque incrementally in a cross pattern to 45Nm / 33 ft./lbs. If you change
these bolts, make sure the bolt shear strength is sufficient for the application.
11. Inside the front cover, you will note a retaining clip and electrical wires. You will have
to either re-route these wires away from the pulley, or simply bend the wire clip to gain
clearance for the pulley.
12. With the exception of the front sprocket cover, re-assemble in reverse order paying
attention to torque figures and using blue Locktight as necessary. The flange on the rear
pulley faces outboard, and the front flange is inboard. Pulley flanges must be in opposing
directions.

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 Torque on the RH self-locking front pulley
nut is 145 Nm / 107 ft./lbs. Make sure the
nut self-locking is in good condition, and
ideally use a new washer, or new position on
the old washer. This washer is very
inexpensive and available from Hitchcock's
under part 574266. Use blue Locktight for
redundancy, and set the bike on the ground,
with rider seated and hard on the brakes,
and/or backed up against the curb, to torque
the nut.

13. Check clearance along the belt – you may have to tie back the wiring for the charcoal
canister if you choose not to remove it.
14. Re-install the wheel with belt, taking care not to scratch the pulley – Depending on
your shock bolt length, you may have to back the lower shock bolt out a bit to minimise any
chance of scratching.
15. Carefully rotate the wheel to check clearance at the shock, and along the belt routing.
Check for excessive runout due to the cush drive, bearings, or installation.
16. The Interceptor / Continental will require filing the front cover bottom lip for belt entry
angle clearance. With the bike on the centre stand, and swingarm in the furthest downward
position, test fit to see where you need remove material, file, test fit, repeat as necessary, then
sand smooth. Once fitment is assured, re-install the cover.

Suspension pre-load
The suspension pre-load must be correctly
set so that the belt is in the proper operating
range. On a street bike preload is typically set
at 25-30% of total suspension travel. Sit on
the bike, all geared up, and adjust the spring
pre-load so Rider sag is within 25-30% of total
suspension travel. I have my Interceptor at 25%

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IMPORTANT – Belt tensioning and alignment

The factory alignment marks on the adjuster are not accurate. Use a lazer or
conventional alignment tool to very roughly set belt alignment as you would do with a chain.
Do not rely on this method for proper alignment, and you must check dynamically as follows:

Belt tension and alignment is critical to belt and pulley life, and you will need a belt
tension tool.
Set belt tension at 21mm with the bike unloaded and securely on the centre stand. This is an
inital starting point only and is not to be used as a final tension setting.

Adjust the axle angular alignment, so that the belt runs between the pulley flanges when
rotating the wheel by hand – verify angular alignment by then rotating the wheel backwards,
and check that the belt remains in position. Ideal position is 1mm off the rear pulley flange, or
lightly touching the rear flange

Angular alignment and the fleeting angle is our concern, and as you can see,
misalignment will result is significant belt and pulley wear. Take the time to do this properly,
and that the belt tension is correct.
Final belt tension setting is done with
the rider and/or pillion on the bike.
Alternatively, load the suspension while
supporting the swingarm on a paddock stand –
not the centre stand. At 80 kg I use 2 bags of
cement.
If you do not have a helper or 2 bags of
cement laying about, remove the lower shock
bolts, and position the axle inline with the
swingarm pivot so that the belt is at the longest
span between the pullies. Adjust tension in this
condition, taking care that the swingarm does
not move as you apply force with the tension
gauge. Once the bike is assembled you will not
want to do this every time you check belt
tension, so once properly set, place the bike on
the side stand and note the tension reading to
use going forward.

With the tool at 10 lbs of force, applied mid span perpendicular to the belt, and rider on
the bike, or swingarm pivot and axle inline, belt free play should be 16-17mm for the
Interceptor / Continental. You likely will have to do this several times to get it right, but it is
not necessary to torque the axle nut each time as long as you make sure the there is no slack in
the adjusters.

You will need at least 3 hands to do this as the centre stand is in the way. It is easiest to
use a short ruler to prop the centre stand down, and act as a gauge for the belt. Push up the belt
using the tension tool, and measure deflection at the ruler.

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 Once you have it correct, adjust alignment dynamically by running the bike on the stand,
and carefully nip up each adjuster, watching the effect on belt tracking. The belt must track
1mm off the rear flange. Verify that tension is at 16-17mm, lock the adjusters, and torque the
axle nut to 70 Nm.
Due to dynamic loading at the cush drive it is normal for the belt to move back and forth
as the cush moves, and there is no way to avoid the belt touching the flange. What we do not
want, is to trap the belt between the two opposing flanges, or to be hard up against one flange.
Gates engineering design parameters, allow for the belt to be just touching the pulley
flange:
"Drive misalignment can also cause belt tracking problems. However, light flange
contact by the belt is normal and won’t affect performance.
Regardless of the drive center distance, the optimum drive performance will occur
with the belt lightly contacting one flange in the system. The worst case is for the
belt to contact flanges on opposite sides of the system. This traps the belt
between opposite flanges and can force the belt into undesirable parallel
misalignment"

17. Re-install the shift linkage and rear master cylinder

18. Test ride, and re-check belt tension, adjusting as necessary. Re-check belt tension after
the first 400 km. We recommend to periodically check belt tension as part of a normal pre-ride
procedure.
Proper belt alignment and tension procedure is a bit fiddly, but once done, and re-checked
after the first 400 km, it is periodic checking until you need to remove the wheel. The belt
tension gauge is the recommended method for tension checking, but if on the road, the 45
degree test is a rough indication - if you can turn the belt 45 degrees using thumb and finger,
you are close, more than 45 is too loose, and less than 45 degrees is too tight.

Any questions, please do not hesitate to ask:

rgstraghan@[Link]
rstechnical@[Link]

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The RSTech development bike with the higher geared “16T mod” belt drive, RSTech front
brake mod consisting of a Brembo P4/34 front calliper on a 330mm rotor with a Brembo
RCS15 radial master cylinder, Brembo rear calliper, RSTech fork brace, re-flashed ECU, TEC
2:1 pipe, BMC filter, YSS rear shocks, YSS fork kit, custom gel seat, flyscreen, Renthal bars,
tubeless tyre conversion, and a few other small bits. Just bought the S&S 865 kit, Hitchcok's
stage 2 cam, big valves, Rekluse clutch, and having the head ported……………A tubeless
conversion 4.5 x 17 alloy rear wheel with a 150/70/17 tyre is built and awaiting the new engine

Interceptor belt installation [Link]– Aug 12, 2024

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