AN INTERNSHIP REPORT ON

Thrupti Designers
(GARMENT PRINTERS)

By, Rajesh. K Siva Jagadish Kumar.M Tejas. Kulkarni

Company Profile
Thrupti Designers - renowned garment printer in Bangalore. Started in the year of 2004. Situated at Begur Road, Bangalore as a 2nd unit of this organization. It is a first printing unit to get certified with GOTS, & Organic Exchange certification in Bangalore. Production capacity 30,000 pieces/day of single color.

Customer List
Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd (Wovens & Knits Divisions) Integra Apparels & Textiles Pvt Ltd Natural Textiles Pvt Ltd LVK Baby Wear Pvt Ltd Sunitha Impex Pvt Ltd Graffiti Exports Mahalakshmi Inc My Choice Garments Imperial Garments (Hyderabad) Gokaldas Exports BLR Knits Pvt Ltd

Infrastructure
Equipped with following machineries for production and sampling.
Type Big Tables (25 meters of each) Pallet Printing Machines Curing Machine Digital Pneumatic Fusing Machine Colour Matching Cabinet (Paramount) Air Compressor No. of Units. 02 12 ( 10 of 8 colours & 2 of 12 colours) 01 10 01 01

Diesel Generator

01

Organisation Structure
Proprietor

HRD Manager

Production Manager

Manager Accounts

HR Assistant

Production Supervisor

Designer

Accounts Assistant

Printers Grade I

Exposure, Screen Maker

Printers Grade II

Helpers

Assistant

SCREEN PRINTING

Screen Printing
A process, where ink is mechanically applied to a substrate with the use of a screen and squeegee.

Colour Separation
Each colour of the design requires an individual screen so we must separate the design into its component colours. This is done on the computer and each colour separation is printed to a transparent sheet.

4 Colour Separation
4-colour process is a more advanced separation and printing technique. Uses 4 colours of transparent ink to produce the colours from the original design. The four colours, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black (CMYK), are printed as half-tones that interact with each other and the white background of the shirt to create colour and tonal values.

Printing Mechanics
The screen is then mounted in the press and aligned so that each colour prints in the proper location relative to the other colours. Ink is loaded into the screens and squeegees are installed. As the squeegee scrapes across the screen with the ink it fills the stencil with ink while simultaneously bending the mesh down to transfer the ink to the shirt.

Screen Printing

Multi Colour Printing

Mesh count
The mesh count is the number of threads per inch (tpi) used to weave the mesh. Typical mesh counts for screen printing range from 85 tpi to 355 tpi. The high mesh counts, have a very small thread diameter and less open area. Prints require more fineness should be use finer mesh count.

Mesh count
Glitter Flock adhesive Puff-up colors Overprint Pigment ink printing areas/lines Plastisol Pigment inks, half-tone Sublimation transfer 2560 45125 55125 80 110 110 175 125305 155255 195305

DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTS

Plastisol Print
Good colour opacity onto dark garments and clear graphic detail with, as the name suggests, a more plasticized texture. Plastisol inks require heat (approx. 150C) to cure the print. Due to excess phthalate in PVC, this is banned for Childrens wear.

Non PVC
Relatively new breed of ink and printing with the benefits of Plastisol but without the main toxic components - soft feeling print. Suitable for kids wear.

High Density Print

This is one of the recent developments in printing which gives thick prints on the surface of garments. Achieved by either giving more number of coats or by using thickener indirect films used for making the screens.

Suedo Ink Print

Suede is a milky coloured additive that is added to Plastisol. With suede additive you can make any colour of Plastisol have suede feel. Generally 50% suede additive to your normal Plastisol.

Discharge Print
Used to print lighter colours onto dark background fabrics, they work by removing the dye already present in the garment. This gives a much softer texture

Sticker Print
This is ready to transfer print. The plastisol print is already printed on paper and will be transfered on to garment in the fusing process. The main advantage of this method is less expensive.

Pigment Print
These penetrate the fabric more than the Plastisole inks and create a much softer feel. Also useful for larger area prints where texture is important.

Glitter Print
Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

Metallic Print
Gives metallic look. Similar to glitter, but smaller particles suspended in the ink. Smooth in texture when compared to glitter.

Foil Print
This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of aluminium or copper one. The print fixation method is similar to transfer printing. This print method is popular amongst youngsters.

Distressed/ Khadi print

It consists of titanium dioxide with other auxiliaries.

The important factor in printing of this is right combination of titanium dioxide and proper choice of binder.

Puff Print
An additive to Plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel. In this method when the paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised from the surface of fabric.

Cavier Bead Print

A glue is printed in the shape of the design, to which small plastic beads are then applied. works well with solid block areas creating an interesting tactile surface.

Silicone Print
To counter inferior wash and weather durability, poor hand feel of some prints like plastisol printing mills tried silicone inks because of their good washing durability, hand feel, elongation properties and environmental friendliness.

Flock Print
This process involves printing of glue on the fabric first, applying the fiber flock on the gel printed by keeping the fabric on special table (electro statically charged). It requires a little high time for curing than normal prints. 120 seconds at 160C will be sufficient for curing.

Organic Print
Organic print range covers the natural dyes, and the other pigment dyes which lies under the specifications made by G.O.T.S. For Printing Organic Dyes the company/ manufacturer should get the certification from G.O.T.S.

FLOW CHARTS
SAMPLE

PRODUCTION

PROFIT

Sampling Process

MACHINES USED IN PRINTING

6- COLOUR SCREEN PRINTING

CAROUSAL PRINTING MACHINE

These machines will be available both in automatic and semi automatic machines and with 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 multi colour models. The double spring model gives the customers a maintenance free performance of the machine. Electric heat panels included in the machine.

DIGITAL FUSING

Used As Heat Transfer Press, Designs To Be Transfered To The Garments / Fabrics / Leathers/ Rexin /Nylon / Polyprpelene/ Bags & etc. Can be used for fusing like plastisol priniting, khadi, pigment & etc. Can Be Used As Flat Bed Fusing Machine For Collar And Cuff Fusing Platen Size Can Be Increased Up to 20" X 30".

ELECTRIC CURING MACHINE

Electric curing used for fixing the printing paste on to the printed fabric. This is the alternate method for Line Drying. So that instead of waiting for 3-5 hours for line drying, the electric curing process can be completed in few minutes.

COLOUR MATCHING CABINET

(SPECTRA VISION)

Artificial Daylight Fluorescent Lamps (D-65) Tungsten Filament Lamps (Inc A Lamps) Cool White Fluorescent Lamp (CWF) Triphosphor Fluorescent Lamp (TL-84) Ultra-Violet Black Lamp

COST, M.O.Q of the Various Types of Prints

Print Type
Sticker Print Plastisole Print Pigment Print Non-Pvc Print

Cost of Print in Rs.

1 1.5 2 2.5

M.O.Q
2500 1000 1000 1000

Curing / Fusing
Fusing Fusing Curing Curing

Suitability for Children

No No Yes Yes

Durability Rating
1.5 2.5 3 2.5

Distressed (Kadi) Print Foil Print

Gel Print Discharge Print

2.5
3.5 3 3

1000
500 1000 500

Curing
Fusing Curing Curing

Yes
Yes Yes Yes

2.5
2 3 3

Glitter Print
Sugar Print Metallic Print High Density Print (6 Coats) Puff Print Flock Print Silicone Print Organic Print Bits Printing

3.5
5 4 5

1000
1000 1000 500

Curing
Curing Curing Curing

Yes
No No Yes

2
2 2 3.5

3.5
5 8 6.5 4

1000
1000 500 1000 2000

Curing
Curing Curing Curing Fusing

Yes
Yes Yes Yes No

3
2.5 4.5 3 2

COST, M.O.Q Analysis for Various Types of Prints

COST & M.O.Q Analysis for Various Types of Prints

Printing Defects
Improper alignment:
Causes: Improper setting of two different screens of different colour

Colour spread:
Causes: Less viscosity of print paste is less. Base fabric not fixed properly.

Improper mixing of print paste:

Causes: As the name itself implies the print paste ingredients are not mixed properly leading to some yellowing or stain marks on print.

Scrimps:
Causes: The print is done on folded fabric.

Printing Defects
Smear
Causes: Printing is done on seams which will be of different thickness leading in spreading and blurring.

Difference in texture
Causes: Improper fusing

Improper colour matching

Causes: If printed colour is not matching with standard.

Printing Defects
Stick in
Causes: Some dust and lint which get chock in screen holes leads in improper design.

Doubling or blurring
Causes: Improper fixing of base fabric or screen.

Lint or thread marks

Causes: Any loose threads come in print area will lead to thread marks on print.

Colour stains
Causes: Improper handling of material.

Printing Defects
Glue streak
Causes: The gum which used to stick garment and/or the gel which is printed on fabric (for foil, flock etc.) strikes out of fabric through back side.

Low sharpness
Causes: Improper mesh selection , damaged screen.

Coloured/White spots
Causes: Improper screen preparation.

Distorted print
Causes: printing of second coat before drying 1st coat.

In general 1-3% of defective pieces in bulk order is allowed, but since the defect occurrence is very less its always less than the limit

References
Web References http://www.gfxsp.com/faq_sp.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing http://www.cheranfusing.com http://www.dowcorning.com/screenprinting

Book Reference Screen Printing A Contemporary Approach, Samuel B. Hoff, Delmar Publishers, 59.
Industrial References Mr. Hanumanth Rao (Manager Production, Thrupti Designers). Mr. Upendra Kant (Manager Administration, Thrupti Designers). Mr. Praveen. S.P. (Sr. Merchant, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-12)

Thank You!!!