TEXTILE

PRINTING

 Printing can also be defined as localized

d i
dyeing.
pp
of dye
y or
Defined as the application
pigment in a different pattern on the fabric
y subsequent
q
after treatment of fixing
g
and by
the dye or pigment to get a particular
des g
design.
Sometimes a printed fabric can be
identified by looking at the back side of
fabric where there is no design or color as
face side
side.
In cotton, dyes like vat, reactive are used
In manmade, dyes like disperse and
cationic are used

DIFFERENT STYLES OF
PRINTING
There are three basic approaches to printing
a color on a fabric
1. DIRECT PRINTING
2 DISCHARGE PRINTING
2.
3. RESIST
3
S S PRINTING
G

DIRECT PRINTING

In this type of printing dye is applied onto

the fabric by
y carved block,, stencil,,
screen, engraved roller etc.
The dye is imprinted on the fabric in
paste form and any desired pattern may
be produced
Example:-Block
Example:
Block Printing, Roller Printing,
Screen Printing etc.

DISCHARGE PRINTING
In this method the fabric is dyed and then
printed with a chemical that will destroy
p
y
the color in designed areas.
Sometimes the base color is removed and
another color printed in its place.

RESIST PRINTING
In this method bleached fabric are printed
with a resist paste ( a resinous substance
that cannot be penetrated when the fabric
is immersed in a dye ).
The dye will only affect only the parts that
are not covered by
y the resist p
paste .
After the fabric has passed through a
subsequent dyeing process the resist
paste is removed, leaving a pattern on a
dark background

DIFFERENT TYPES OF
PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING
ROLLER PRINTING
SCREEN PRINTING
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
ROTARY PRINTING
TRANSFER PRINTING
STENCIL PRINTING
DIGITAL PRINTING
BATIK PRINTING
TIE & DYE

BLOCK PRINTING
It is the oldest and simplest way of printing
In this method a wooden block with a
pattern on the surface was dipped
pp
raised p
into the printing colorant and then pressed
face down on to fabric.
The desired pattern was obtained by
repeating the process using different
colors.
Generally the wooden block is carved out
of hand
Printing is done manually

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING
1.
2.
3.
4.

ADVANTAGES
Simple method of
printing
p
g
No expensive
equipment required
No limitation in repeat
of size of style
Prints produced have
greatt decorative
d
ti value
l
and stamp of
craftsmanship
ft
hi

1.
2.
3.

4
4.

DISADVANTAGES
Involves much
manual work
Method is slow and
therefore low output
Good skilled labors
needed for multi color
design
Fi and
Fine
d delicate
d li t
designs hard to
produce
d

ROLLER PRINTING
It is the machine method of printing
designs
g on cloths by
y engraved
g
rollers.
The design is engraved on the surface of a
metal roller
roller, to which dye is applied
applied, and
the excess is scraped off the roller's
surface,
f
leaving dye in the engraved
sections. When it rolls across the fabric,
the dye on the roller transfers to the fabric.

Diagram of roller printing m/c

ROLLER PRINTING M/C

ROLLER PRINTING

ROLLER PRINTING
ADVANTAGES
1. Large quantities of
fabric at the rate of
914 3658 per h
914-3658m
hour
can be printed.
2 Faulty
2.
F lt joints
j i t or joint
j i t
marks are absent.
3 Fine
3.
Fi sharp
h
outlines
tli
and good prints can
be obtained which is
difficult to get in
block printing.
printing

1.
2.
3.

4.

DISADVANTAGES
Not economical for
short run of fabrics.
Difficult to produce
blotch designs.
Repeat of design
limited to the size of
th rollers.
the
ll
Setup cost of roller
printing
i ti
m/c
/ is
i high
hi h

STENCIL PRINTING
It is one of the oldest way of printing.
In it color is applied to the fabric by
brushing or spraying the interstices of a
pattern cut out from a flat sheet of metal or
waterproof paper or plastic sheet or
laminated sheet.
A stencil is prepared by cutting out a
design from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or
plastic.
plastic

A simple stencil design

Example of stencil printing

STENCIL PRINTING
ADVANTAGES
1. Simple
p and cost
effective.
2. Stencils can be
made rapidly and
can be used for
small orders.
3 Color combination is
3.
good in it.

DISADVANTAGES
1. Good design
g is
difficult to obtain.
2. Process is laborious.
3. Not suitable for large
scale production.
production

SCREEN PRINTING
It involves the application of the printing
paste through a fine screen placed in
contact with the fabric to be printed.
A design is created in reverse on the
screen by blocking areas of the screen
with a material such as an opaque paint.
The
Th screen iis th
then placed
l
d over th
the ffabric
bi
and the printing paste is forced through
the open areas of the screen using a
flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade
known as a squeegee.

PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING

SCREEN PAPER SIDE

ORIGINAL PRINT

SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE

PRINT ON FABRIC

SCREEN PRINTING
ADVANTAGES
1. Simple
p and cost
effective.
2. Quick pattern
making
3 16 colors can be
3.
used in a design.
4 Sharp lines and
4.
features easily
produced
produced.

DISADVANTAGES
1. For high
g p
production
large no. of tables
required.
2. Delicate shading
difficult to obtain.
3. Screen clogging
may be there in fine
areas.

FLAT SCREEN PRINTING

FLAT-SCREEN
It is the advanced version of screen
printing
p
g by
y using
g automatic m/c to do work
It consists of printing table, conveyor belt,
number of screens,
screens mechanism to print on
the fabric, etc.
First the fabric is brought on the printing
table through a feeding arrangement and it
is gummed to the conveyor belt on the
table

 Conveyor brings fabric periodically under

screen and stops while the screen are
l
lowered
d on th
the required
i d parts
t off th
the ffabric.
bi
Printing paste is distributed throughout the
full length of the screen.
The
Th squeeze is
i pressed
d tto th
the screen .
One or more strokes of the squeeze
q
ensure simultaneous printing of the pattern
by the common action of all screens which
applies printing paste as required by the
color in the design
design.

FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING M/C

FLAT SCREEN PRINTING

ADVANTAGES
1. Greater p
production
than manual screen
g
printing
2. Printing with
different repeat can
be made easily
3 Good print is
3.
obtained

DISADVANTAGES
1. A big
g setup
p required
q
for more number of
screens
2. Prints with more
colors may not be
possible
3 Printing paste not
3.
evenly controlled

ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

Rotary screen printing involves a series of
revolving
g metal cylinder
y
, each with
revolving screens, each with a stationary
squeegee inside which forces the print
paste onto the fabric.
Twenty or more colours can be printed at
the same time.
The process is much quicker and more
efficient than flat screen printing .

Working of rotary screen printing

m/c

A rotary screen printing m/c

Feeding
g of color to rollers

TRANSFER PRINTING
It is a indirect method of printing in which
dyes are transferred from paper to a
thermoplastic fabric under controlled
conditions of temperature,
temperature time and pressure
pressure.
The image is first engraved on a copper
plate.
Then p
pigment
g
is applied
pp
on these p
plates.
The image is then transferred to a piece of
paper with a layer of glue applied .
paper,
This is then placed on the fabric and heat and
pressure applied
li d which
hi h fifixes the
h print
i onto
fabric.

Process of transfer printing

TRANSFER PRINTING
ADVANTAGES
1. Operation
p
is simple
p
and no expensive
m/c is required.
2. No after treatment of
fabric required
3. Print on fabric is of
excellent quality

DISADVANTAGES
1. Process applicable
pp
to synthetic fabric
y
.
like polyester
2. Color range is
limited.
3. Cost of printed
paper high.
high
4. Not economical for
small orders.
orders

RESIST PRINTING
There are two types of resist printing
BATIK PRINTING
TIE & DIE PRINTING

BATIK PRINTING
Originated on island of Java and is a
cottage
tt
based
b
d industry.
i d t
Batik is derived from word AMBATIK
The resist-dyeing process, whereby
designs are made with wax on a fabric
which is subsequently immersed in a dye
to absorb the color on the unwaxed
portions, is known as batik printing.
Special feature is the fine lines of color
running irregularly across the fabric.

BATIK PRINTING

ADVANTAGES
Gives a g
good artistic
effect
Cheap printing
Greater artistic
design
Fabric has a rich
and graceful
appearance

DISADVANTAGES
Laborious
Time taking
Cracking effect
Dye should be
applied at low
temperature than
wax
wax.

TIE & DYE

It is same as that of batik printing but here
the dye
y is resisted byy knots that are tied in
the cloth before it is immersed in dye bath.
The outside of the knotted portion is dyed
dyed,
but inside is not penetrated if the knot is
firmly tied.
This gives a characteristic blurred or
mottled effect .

TIE & DYE

ADVANTAGE
Interesting
g design
g
created on fabric
No m/c cost is there

DISADVANTAGE
Costlyy
Laborious
Time taking
Skilled labour
required

DIGITAL PRINTING
It is the more advanced type of printing.
This includes ::
Jet spray printing
Electrostatic printing
Photo printing
Differential printing

JET SPRAYING MACHINE

ELECTROSTATIC PRINTING M/C

PHOTO PRINTING M/C

PRINTS
S

CLASSICAL
Also known as ethnic or traditional print. In
this p
print classical motifs or traditional
collections are used such as mango,
elephant with the chariots
chariots, old musical
instruments etc. the culture of any
particular place can also be considered
such as tie and dye , batik, block of
Rajasthan etc

FLORAL PRINT
It has the print of varieties of flower either
in bunch or single
g spotted
p
, huge
g or small
, combination of leaves and other addings.
Color combination is very important.

STRIPES

PIN
ZIGZAG
SPIRAL
ZEBRA
DIAGONAL
HORIZONTAL
VERTICAL
CURVED
TOOTHPASTE
LAMP POST

STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES
STRIPES

PIN STRIPES
THESE ARE STRIPES WHICH IS
PRINTED LINES AT HAIRY DISTANCE
AND MOSTLY TWO OR THREE
COLORS ARE USED INCLUDING THE
BACKGROUND.

ZIGZAG STRIPES
IT CAN COME IN HORIZONTAL OR
VERTICAL BUT IN THE SHAPE OF
ZIGZAG.

SPIRAL STRIPES
THE PRINT LOOKS LIKE A STRETCHED
SPRING AT MEDIUM PRESSURE,, THIS
CAN EITHER BE VERTICAL OR
HORIZONTAL.
HORIZONTAL

CURVED STRIPES
THIS PRINT HAS THE EFFECT OF A
WAVE FOLLOWED EITHER
VERTICAL/HORIZONTAL.

TOOTHPASTE STRIPE
THIS STRIPE CAN BE MULTICOLORED
AND THE DISTANCE CAN VARY BUT
THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE SHOULD
BE RANGING FROM 0
0.5
5-1
1.5CMS
5CMS THE
WIDTH OF THE TOOTHPASTE.

ZEBRA STRIPES
IN THIS STRIPES ONLY TWO COLORS
ARE USED AND MOSTLY NEUTRAL
COLORED SCHEME IS SEEN .
THESE STRIPES ARE PLACED AT
EQUIDISTANCE.
THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE WILL
NOT BE MORE THAN 1.0CM

LAMP POST STRIPE

THE WIDTH STARTS FROM 3-5CM.
IT CAN BE COMPOUND STRIPES
STRIPES.
THE PRINT HAS RUNNING LINES OF
FIXED WIDTH
WIDTH.

CHECK PRINTS
THESE ARE GOT BY INTERSECTING
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL LINES
AT 90 DEG ANGLES.
IT IS OF 4 TYPES
PLAIDS
MADRAS CHECK
BOMBAY CHECK
OXFORD CHECK

PLAIDS
PLAIDS ARE SIMPLE CHECK WHERE
ALL THE SQUARES ARE OF EQUAL
SIZE AND IT HAS THE COMBINATION
OF ANY TWO COLORS WHICH ARE
MOSTLY USED FOR SCHOOL
UNIFORMS.
UNIFORMS
LOOKS LIKE THE CHECKS IN A CHESS
BOARD

MADRAS CHECK
IT HAS GOT NO MORE THAN 2 OR 3
VERTICAL STRIPES WITH
EQUAL(SINGLE) HORIZONTAL
STRIPES.
STRIPES
COLORS USED BLUE, RED, ORANGE,
ETC
C
USED FOR LUNGIS, BURMUDAS AND
COATS

BOMBAY CHECKS
THESE CHECKS ARE MOSTLY
AVAILABLE IN LIGHT COLORS.
HERE NO PROPER NUMBER OF
STRIPES CAN BE COUNTED EITHER
HORIZONTALLY OR VERTICALLY BUT
S
STRIPES
S ARE VERY CLOSELY
C OS
PRINTED
USED IN SHIRTS

OXFORD CHECK
THIS IS FOUND IN DARK COLORS
WITH WHITE COMBINATION.
HERE THE STRIPES PRINTED
Q
TO
HORIZONTALLY WILL BE EQUAL
THE STRIPES PRINTED VERTICALLY
QU THICKNESS
C
SS PLACED
C
AND AT EQUAL
AT EQUIDISTANCE
USED IN UNIFORMS
UNIFORMS, MAT,
MAT BED
COVERS, DRAPERIES ETC

DOTS
THESE ARE SPOTS EITHER DESIGNED
OR PLAIN IN DIFFERENT COLORS
3 TYPES
BIG DOTS(3-10CM)
DOTS(3 10CM)
S
SMALL DOTS(PINO S(
1.5CM)
5C )
POLKA DOTS(MIXTURE OF ABOVE)

GEOMETRICAL PRINTS
THIS IS THE PRINT WHERE ALL THE
GEOMETRICAL INSTRUMENT DESIGNS
ARE CREATED AND THE
MATHEMATICAL SIGNS ARE USED
SUCH AS PLUS, MINUS,
MULTIPLICATION DIVISION ETC.
ETC

DIRECTIONAL PRINTS
ANY PRINT WHICH IS DESIGNED
DIRECTIONALLY EITHER HORIZONTAL,,
VERTICAL OR DIAGONAL IS CALLED
THE DIRECTIONAL PRINTS.
PRINTS
ITS FEATURE IS TO FOLLOW THE
DIRECTION
C O O
OF THE FIRST
S ONE.
O
USED IN EGYPTIAN DRESS

SELF PRINTS
ANY DESIGN WHICH HAS TO BE
PRINTED SHOULD BE OF THE SAME
SHADES OF THE BACKGROUND
COLOR.
COLOR
RUBBER PRINT

COMPUTERISED PRINT
THE DESIGN IS TAKEN FROM
COMPUTER GRAPHIC DESIGN AND
VIDEO GAMES .
CAN BE USED FOR CHILDREN AND
TEENAGERS.

WILD PRINT
THE EFFECT OF FOREST WITH OR
WITHOUT ANIMALS,, NATURE ARE
USED IN THIS PRINT
MOSTLY DULL COLORS ARE USED
USED.

ANIMAL PRINT
THE IMPORTANCE IS GIVEN TO THE
SKIN TEXTURE OF THE ANIMALS AND
THEIR PRINTS SUCH AS ZEBRA,
CHEETAH TIGER
CHEETAH,
TIGER, DEER,
DEER SNAKE ETC

ABSTRACT PRINT
THIS PRINT IS MADE USING
IRREGULAR SHAPES WITH MATCHING
COLOR SCHEME.

NUMERICAL PRINT
HERE THE NUMBER 0-9 ARE USED.
SOME TIMES WITH OR WITHOUT
MATHEMATICAL SIGNS

ALPHABETICAL PRINTS
THIS PRINT IS MADE USING
ALPHABETS,, WORDINGS ETC
EG: NEWSPAPER PRINT

CHILDREN PRINT
THE PRINT CONSISTS OF DESIGNS
WHICH CAN EMPHASIZE THE
CHILDRENS MOOD SUCH AS
CARTOONS CHOCLATES,
CARTOONS,
CHOCLATES FRUITS,
FRUITS ICE
CREAM ETC

PHOTO PRINT
THE PHOTOS OF THE FAMOUS STARS,
POP SINGERS,, OLD CARS ETC ARE
PRINTED ON T-SHIRTS WHICH ARE
CALLED PHOTOPRINT

MARBLE PRINT
THIS PRINT LOOKS LIKE A MARBLE
FINISH