Statistical Analysis of

Wave Energy Content

Presented by: Leon Warnakulasuriya

Mentor: Sadhana Weerasinghe, M.S.
University of Houston Clear Lake
Lecturer of Mathematics and Statistics
Statistical Analysis of Wave Energy
Content
Independent Study Mentorship - Fall 201
ISM Teacher: Mrs. Kristi Click, RN, BSN, M
*Some information in this presentation comes from outside sources.

Sadhana Weersinghe (mentor) and Leon Warnakulasuriya (student)

Mrs. Weerasinghe is a Lecturer of Mathematics and Statistics. She has a Masters in
Statistics from the University of Houston Clear Lake.

What is ISM?
ISM, short for Independent Study Mentorship, is a course that allows
students to mentor with professionals in various technical fields.
The student is expected to mentor for 33 hours and create a final
presentation with a tangible product that relates to the field they
mentored in.
Students are also required to turn in weekly activity logs and complete
journal entries describing their mentorship activities for the week.
In addition, students complete various assignments related to their
mentorship or research topic.

ISM Online Portfolio

Students must also maintain an online portfolio documenting their mentorship
activities.

http://leonwarnakulasuriya.weebly.com/

The Career
My mentor is a lecturer of Mathematics and Statistics at the University of
Houston Clear Lake.
She had served as a TA during graduate studies which inspired her to
become an educator.
Most educators teach simply because they enjoy teaching. They are driven
to help others succeed and have at some point realized they are able to
explain material well.

Introduction
My project is a statistical analysis of wave energy content.
This project is about using raw spectral wave data to analyze the energy
content of waves.
I am considering this topic mainly because I lived in Galveston for 10 years.
During and after Hurricane Ike, I saw a firsthand account of the raw power
contained within the ocean and the ability to harness this inexhaustible
resource would be extremely beneficial, especially with a growing global
environmental conscious as private firms and individuals look towards
alternative energy sources.

Activity Schedule
ISM PROJECT-Tentative Activity Schedule First 9 Weeks
Week 3:
Meet mentor and discuss the project.
Develop a tentative time line for the first half of the project.
Search literature to understand how to analyze ocean wave
data.
Search resources to find wave data, including web sites.
Discuss with mentor about data binning procedures and
methods to develop statistical data analysis techniques.

Week 4.
Read literature.
Select real time wave height data for demonstrative analysis
for the first 9 weeks.
Select spectral data for wave statistical analysis.
Download all the data and save in a secure place for analysis.

Week 5.
Input both types of data into an excel spread sheet.
Place the data in separate bins selected considering input
parameters such as tides, hour of the day, etc.
Graph example data ranges for demonstrative purpose.

Week 6.
Study the theory of waves.
Learn the theory relevant to Fourier transformation and Fast
Fourier transformation.

Week 7.
Learn the fundamentals of MATLAB program.
Learn how to write a Fast Fourier Transform program using
MATLAB.

Week 8.
Write a program using MATLAB to convert time domain data to
frequency domain data.
Convert a representative set of data and validate the program.

Waves
Waves are enormously powerful and are present in almost every large
body of water as a result of the various forces acting on the water. It is
important to understand the behavior of the waves in order to properly
construct structures and ensure safety.
The primary parameters needed to understand waves are the wavelength
(denoted by variable ) and the height of the wave along with depth of the
water beneath the wave.
Other parameters can be derived from these basic parameters.
Waves are categorized based on the ratio between the wavelength
(denoted by variable ) and the height of the wave.
Dean, Robert G., and Robert A. Dalrymple. "Introduction to Wave Mechanics."Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:
Prentice-Hall, 1984. 1-7. Print.
Sabersky, Rolf H., Allan J. Acosta, and Edward G. Hauptmann. "11.13 Waves of Finite Wavelength."Fluid Flow: A First Course in Fluid Mechanics. 3rd ed. New
York: Macmillan, 1989. 406-15. Print.

Waves (continued)
Surface or deep-water waves have a wavelength to height ration that is
much less than 1. Waves resulting from wind, the most common type,
are of this nature.
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) is a government funded
program collecting buoy data as a part of the National Weather Service.
NDBC buoys are found all across the country in various bodies of water
including the Great Lakes and the both the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean.
Six single axis accelerometers are mounted perpendicularly to the
surface of the buoy. The accelerometer measures movement of the
buoy in the y-direction (if spectral data is graphed on a coordinate axis)
Dean, Robert G., and Robert A. Dalrymple. "Introduction to Wave Mechanics."Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:
Prentice-Hall, 1984. 1-7. Print.
Sabersky, Rolf H., Allan J. Acosta, and Edward G. Hauptmann. "11.13 Waves of Finite Wavelength."Fluid Flow: A First Course in Fluid Mechanics. 3rd ed. New
York: Macmillan, 1989. 406-15. Print.

Waves (continued)
Raw spectral wave data can be broken into segments for more
complex and accurate analysis.
Segmenting and overlapping data sets will decreases statistical
uncertainties (i.e., confidence intervals). Data segmenting also
increases spectral leakage since, for shorter record lengths in each
segment, fewer Fourier frequencies are used to represent actual
wave frequencies (Earle 9).
Dean, Robert G., and Robert A. Dalrymple. "Introduction to Wave Mechanics."Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:
Prentice-Hall, 1984. 1-7. Print.
Sabersky, Rolf H., Allan J. Acosta, and Edward G. Hauptmann. "11.13 Waves of Finite Wavelength."Fluid Flow: A First Course in Fluid Mechanics. 3rd ed. New
York: Macmillan, 1989. 406-15. Print.
United States of America. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. National Data Buoy Center. Nondirectional and Directional Wave Data Analysis
Procedures. By Marshall D. Earle. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, Jan. 1996. Web. 1 Oct. 2016.

The Great Wave off Kanagawa

Hokusai, Katsuhika.The Great Wave

off Kanagawa. 1826. Library of
Congress.Wikimedia Commons. 26
Dec. 2008. Web. 8 Oct. 2016.

Wave Tank
The tangible product is a wave tank.
The tank is be able to demonstrate
various periods, wavelengths,
frequencies, and significant wave
heights.
Materials for the tank include sheets
of acrylic plastic (3 x 2), acrylic
glue, long springs (with low spring
constant), and a steel rod handle.

Wave Tank

6.5
In

24
In

5 In
5 In
3 In

3 In

5 In
4 In

Wedge

Handle

NOAA Wave Tank. Digital

image.Wave Tank. Center for
Coastal and Ocean Mapping
Joint Hydrographic Center, n.d.
Web. 8 Oct. 2016.

Statistical Analysis
Some basic statistical techniques that were completed include
completing linear regressions.
In order to analyze the data selected, the data had to be separated
into 3 hour intervals mainly because of the sheer volume of data.
Additionally, erroneous values had to be removed from over 2
million data values in order to improve the accuracy of the
regression model.
Fourier transformation has used to convert the time domain wave
data to frequency domain spectral wave data to simplify the
analysis.

Statistical Analysis

Statistical Analysis

Statistical Analysis

Fourier Transformation and FFT

Fourier transformation is a mathematical technique used to evaluate complex
functions by separating them into more simple trigonometric functions.
Fast-Fourier transformation involves the use of mathematical algorithms to
convert time domain data in the form of signals into a frequency domain.
A graph of wave height rarely produces a sinusoidal curve. It is the
superposition of sinusoids that permits the use of Fourier analysis and spectral
techniques to be used in describing the sea. (3)

Dean, Robert G., and Robert A. Dalrymple.

"Introduction to Wave Mechanics."Water
Wave Mechanics for Engineers and
Scientists. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: PrenticeHall, 1984. 1-7. Print.

Fourier Transformation. Digital

image.Understanding of Fast Fourier
Transform. N.p., 3 June 2015. Web. 8 Oct.
2016.

Data/Results
Conversion of Time Domain Wave Spectrum to Frequency Spectrum
Using FFT
Frequency Spectrum

Wave Height vs. Time

0.3

100

0.25

90
0.2

80
Wave Height (cm)

Frequency Spectral

0.15

70

0.1
Wave Height (m)
0.05

60
50

40
16:04:48 16:04:57 16:05:05 16:05:14 16:05:23 16:05:31
Time (s)

Sampling Frequency (Hz)

Data/Results
AVERAGE WAVE HEIGHT Vs. HOURS IN DAY BY MONTH,
WAVE FREQ=0.21Hz
0.3

0.25
January
February

0.2

March
April

0.15

Average Wave Height (m)

0.1

0.05

0
Hours 0 - 2

Hours 3 - 5

Hours 6 - 8

Hours 9 - 11 Hours 12 - 14 Hours 15 -17 Hours 18 - 20 Hours 21 - 23

Hours in Day

Data/Results
Average Wave Height Vs. Wave Frequency During Hour 1 - Hour 3 of the Day

average wave height (m)

Average Wave Height Vs. Wave Frequency During Hour 22 - Hour 24 of the Day

0.25

0.25

0.2

0.2

0.15

0.15

0.1

0.1

0.05
0

Wave Frequency (Hz)

average wave height (m)

0.05
0

Wave Frequency (Hz)

Regression Analysis
After selecting the pre-dominant frequencies as shown by the Average Wave
Height vs. Frequency Graphs, regression models were completed to analyze
the relationship between wave height and other factors.
Factors tested include wind speed, atmospheric temperature, and
atmospheric pressure.
Some basic statistical parameters were used to analyze the results:
r-value is a numerical measurement that assesses the strength of a linear
relationship between two variables x and y (123)
r-value the fractional amount of total variation in y that can be explained
by using the linear model y =a + bx (128)
Brase, Charles Henry., and Corrinne Pellillo. Brase. "Scatter Diagrams and Linear Correlation."Understanding Basic Statistics. 7th ed. Boston, MA: Cengage
Learning, 2016. 123-29. Print.

Data/Results
Wave Height (m)

Scatter Plot of Wave Height vs. Wind Speed

(wave frequency = 0.21)

r value: 0.6840
r-value: 0.4679
Regression equation: y = 0.03596x +
0.04080

Wind Speed (m/s)

Data/Results
Wave Height (m)

Scatter Plot of Wave Height vs. Atmospheric

Temperature
(wave frequency = 0.21)

r value: -.40087
r-value: 0.1607
Regression equation: y = -0.01833x +
0.4921

Atmospheric Temperature
(C)

Data/Results
Wave Height (m)

Scatter Plot of Wave Height vs. Atmospheric Pressure

(wave frequency = 0.21)

r value: -.09831
r-value: 0.0088
Regression equation: y = -0.00301x +
0.33096

Atmospheric Pressure
(mBar)

Conclusion
Based on the r-values from the various regression model, it
becomes clear that there are several factors influencing significant
wave height and wave energy potential as a result.
Wind speed can account for almost 50% (46.79) of the variability
in wave height.
Atmospheric temperature can only account for 17% of the
variability in wave height.
Pressure can account for less than 1% of the variability in wave
height.

Conclusion
These findings combined with the research performed suggest that
ideal locations for wave energy machines would be colder regions
with high wind speeds, making the coastal area around Galveston
less than ideal.
There may also be other variables at play including wind direction
and water depth.
If I were to continue this project, I would want to perform
multivariate regression models in order to see how all of the
factors together contribute to wave height.

Conclusion
It is vital to understand wave behavior because of the vast implications
of this seemingly random movement.
Although waves may be a destructive force, they have the potential to
be an incredible energy source.
I liked this study because I have always been fascinated by waves. Prior
to moving to League City, I had spent a large portion of my life near the
water. I found this study valuable to me because humans are quickly
running out of traditional energy sources and need to find an alternative.
Although this may not happen in my lifetime, identifying the
effectiveness of an alternative energy sources would improve the quality
of life for later generations.

Questions?

Thank You
I would like to thank my mentor, Mrs. Sadhana Weerasinghe, for providing
me with this educational opportunity to observe her and for her assistance
in the development of the research project.
I would like to thank Mrs. Kristi Click for her assistance and guidance in
the completion of this project and over the duration of the semester.
I would like to thank my parents, Frank Warnakulasuriya and Harshica
Fernando, for providing me with the opportunity to meet with my mentor
and for the inspiration they have provided me throughout my life.
I would like to thank my evaluators, Mrs. Carol Switoyus and Mrs. Linda
Moffett, for taking the time to listen to my presentation and evaluate my
project.

Works Cited

Brase, Charles Henry., and Corrinne Pellillo. Brase. "Scatter Diagrams and Linear Correlation."Understanding Basic
Statistics. 7th ed. Boston, MA: Cengage Learning, 2016. 123-29. Print.
Dean, Robert G., and Robert A. Dalrymple. "Introduction to Wave Mechanics."Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers
and Scientists. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, 1984. 1-7. Print.
Fourier Transformation. Digital image.Understanding of Fast Fourier Transform. N.p., 3 June 2015. Web. 8 Oct.
2016.
Hamilton, Glenn D. "National Data Buoy Center Programs." Bulletin for the American Meteorological Society (1986):
411-15. Journals Online. American Meteorological Society, 1 Apr. 1986. Web. 1 Oct. 2016.
Hokusai, Katsuhika.The Great Wave off Kanagawa. 1826. Library of Congress.Wikimedia Commons. 26
2008. Web. 8 Oct. 2016.

Dec.

NOAA Wave Tank. Digital image.Wave Tank. Center for Coastal and Ocean Mapping Joint Hydrographic Center, n.d.
Web. 8 Oct. 2016.
Sabersky, Rolf H., Allan J. Acosta, and Edward G. Hauptmann. "11.13 Waves of Finite Wavelength."Fluid Flow: A
First Course in Fluid Mechanics. 3rd ed. New York: Macmillan, 1989. 406-15. Print.
United States of America. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. National Data Buoy Center.
Nondirectional and Directional Wave Data Analysis Procedures. By Marshall D. Earle. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF
COMMERCE, Jan. 1996. Web. 1 Oct. 2016.