How Waves Form

When you watch the

surfer's wave crash onto
the beach, you are seeing
the last step in the process
of the wave's development.
The process begins with
wind.
Most waves form when
winds blowing across the
water's surface transmit
their energy to the water.
A wave is the movement
of energy through a body
of water.
 How Waves Form

Although waves may appear to carry water toward

shore, the water does not actually move forward in
deep water.
If it did, ocean water would eventually pile up on the
coasts of every continent!
The energy of the wave moves toward shore, but the
water itself remains where it was.
Wave DO NOT carry water, they carry energy.
 How Waves Form

Waves start in the open

ocean.
The size of the wave
depends on the strength
of the wind and on the
length of time it blows.
 A gentle breeze creates
small ripples on the
surface of the water.
Stronger winds create
larger waves.
 How Waves Form
The size of the wave also
depends on the distance
over which the wind
blows.
Winds blowing across
longer distances build up
bigger waves.
 PARTS OF A WAVE
The name for the highest part of a wave is the crest.
The horizontal distance between crests is the
wavelength.
Long, rolling waves with lots of space between crests
have long wavelengths.
Short, choppy waves have shorter wavelengths.
Waves are also measured by their frequency, the
number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount
of time.
 PARTS OF A WAVE
The name for the lowest
part of a wave is the
trough.
The vertical distance
from the crest to the
trough is the wave
height.
The energy and strength
of a wave depend mainly
on its wave height.
 How Waves Change Near Shore

In deep water, waves usually travel as long, low waves

called swells.
As the waves approach the shore, the water becomes
shallower.
The bottoms of the waves begin to touch the sloping
ocean floor.
Friction between the ocean floor and the water causes
the waves to slow down.
As the speed of the waves decrease, their shapes
change.
How Waves Change Near Shore
Near shore, the wave
height increases and the
wavelength decreases.
When the wave reaches a
certain height, the crest
of the wave topples.
The wave breaks onto
the shore, forming surf.
WAVE ACTION
 Comprehension Check
1. Describe how ocean waves form.
2. What is the highest part of the wave?
3. What is the lowest part of the wave?
4. What is the distance between two crests or troughs
5. What is the vertical distance between a crest and
trough?