Kuliah 4 GEODINAMIKA PANTAI

Dosen Dr.Bahdad, M.Si

JENIS DAN KLASIFIKASI

PANTAI
The Coastal Ocean
 Learning Objectives
• Students will be able to:

• Describe various definitions for the coastal zone

• Differentiate between pelagic and neritic
processes
• Classify estuaries in multiple ways and explain
estuarine sedimentation processes
• Articulate and describe beach processes
• Describe the pros and cons to beach
stabilization
 Outline
• Definitions
• 3-D Ekman spiral
• Estuaries
• Estuarine Measurements
• Habitat squeeze concept
• Beaches and Shoreline Processes
• Beach defense
 Coastal waters
• Relatively shallow areas that adjoin
continents
• Heavily used for commerce, recreation,
fisheries, and waste disposal
• Military purposes as well
 The Coast
• The land and waters extending inland for 1
km from high water mark on the foreshore
and extending to the 30 m contour line
including all beds, sediments, waters and
land subject to the ebb and flow of the
tide.
 Definitions
• A line extending 200 nm (370km) from the
coast.
• The 500 m isobath
• A line a the foot of the continental slope
• Territorial water- water adjacent to a
coastal nation. Majority favor 3 miles, US
wants 200.
 EEZ
• The exclusive economic zone- 200 mile
fishing and mineral rights.
• Legal-UN Convention on the Law of the
Sea- the seabed and subsoil that extends
to the edge of the continental margin or a
distance of 200 nm.
 How does the Coastal Ocean
Differ from the deep ocean?
Significant changes in Temperature, salinity
and even pH. Very sensitive to
environmental factors, like pollutants,
contaminants, dissolved gases and
nutrients.
May or may not exhibit constant proportions.
Bathymetry is a controlling factor in many
physical processes.
 How does the Coastal Ocean
Differ from the deep ocean?
• The pycnocline tends to follow the ______,
Instead of the ________. Why?
Friction can not be ignored this leads to 3-D
Ekman system near the coast rather than
the familiar 2-D one you know. Important
implications for management issues.
The shoaling effect is prominent here.
 3-D Ekman
• We have all seen the 2-D Ekman spiral.
• But what happens when the depth of the
sea floor is less than the theoretical
Ekman depth? Where does this happen?
Quasi geostrophic Flow

friction Pressure
force

coriolis
Depth variation of
currents in the wind-
generated Ekman layer
- shallow sea situation (constant eddy
coefficient) for the northern
hemisphere, assuming a southerly
wind.
- light green curve is the Ekman spiral
under deep sea conditions (H > 1.25
dE).
- red curves show Ekman spirals for
successively shallower water (1/2,
1/4 and 1/10 of dE).
- White circles indicate the endpoints
of the current vectors from the
surface down in increments of 0.1 d E;
the vector endpoints for z = 0 (the
surface) and z = 0.5 d E are blue.
Adapted from Neumann and Pierson
(1966), based on Ekman (1905).
 y

DE

Flow at interior?
DB

Flow at bottom?
z

-x
Overlap of bottom and surface Ekman layers
Importance of shelf break depth
Problems with Ekman theory – constant Az, constant wind, linear flow, steady state,
infinite ocean, no pressure gradients
 Estuaries

• Estuaries are partially enclosed coastal bodies

of water
• Examples of estuaries include:
– River mouths
– Bays
– Inlets
– Gulfs
– Sounds
• Formed by a rise in sea level after the last Ice
Age
 Classifying estuaries by origin

• Coastal plain
• Fjord
• Bar-built
• Tectonic

Figure 11-3
 Classifying estuaries by water
mixing

• Vertically mixed
• Slightly stratified
• Highly stratified
• Salt wedge

Figure 11-5
Generation of the ETM
 Classification by Tides

Amplit
ude
Curren
t

Head Mouth Head Mouth Head Mouth

Hypersynchronous Synchronous Hyposynchronous

Convergence>Friction Convergence=Friction Convergence<Friction

The tidal range & currents
increase towards the head
of the estuary until the
convergence diminishes &
friction reduces the tide
The friction and Friction is stronger and
convergence have the tide diminishes
equal and opposite along the estuary
effects on the tide
 AN interesting problem

• We all know that coastal lagoons tend to

silt in. This seems to be a problem,
because this occurs against the
concentration gradient.

• The Dutch were the first to recognize this

in the Wadden Zee.
 The silting in of harbors and
lagoons
• So why does it happen?
• It turns out there are a number of
dynamical processes all conspiring to
create this effect.
• 1- general estuarine circulation (salt
wedge)
• 2 - the time velocity asymmetry of the
shallow tidal wave.
• 3 - the settling lag effect
Beaches and Shoreline
Processes
Landforms and terminology in
coastal regions

Figure 10-1
 Movement of sand on the beach

• Movement perpendicular (↕) to shoreline

– Caused by breaking waves
– Light wave activity moves sand up the beach
face toward the berm
– Heavy wave activity moves sand down the
beach face to the longshore bars
– Produces seasonal changes in the beach
 Light versus heavy wave activity

Light wave activity Heavy wave

activity
Berm/long- Berm grows and
shore bar longshore bars
shrink
Wave energy Low High
Time span Long Short
Characteristi Summertime Wintertime beach:
cs beach: sandy, wide rocky, thin berm,
berm, steep beach flattened beach face
face
Summertime and wintertime
beach conditions

Summertime beach Wintertime beach

Figure 10-2
 Movement of sand on the beach

• Movement parallel (↔) to shoreline

– Caused by wave refraction (bending)
– Each wave transports sand either upcoast or
downcoast
– Huge volumes of sand are moved within the
surf zone
– The beach resembles a “river of sand”
 Longshore current and
longshore drift
• Longshore current
= zigzag movement
of water in the surf
zone
• Longshore drift =
movement of
sediment caused by
longshore current

Figure 10-3b
Features of erosional shores

• Headland
• Wave-cut
cliff
• Sea cave
• Sea arch
• Sea stack
• Marine
terrace
Figure 10-4
Sea stack and sea arch, Oregon
Features of depositional shores

• Spit
• Bay barrier
• Tombolo
• Barrier island
• Delta
Figure 10-7
 Beach compartments in
southern California

• Beach
compartment
s include:
– Rivers
– Beaches
– Submarine
canyons

Figure 10-12
 Evidence of emerging and
submerging shorelines
• Emergent features:
– Marine terraces
– Stranded beach
deposits
• Submergent
features:
– Drowned beaches
– Submerged dune
topography
– Drowned river Figure 10-13
valleys
 Types of hard stabilization

• Hard stabilization perpendicular to the

coast within the surf zone:
– Jetties—protect harbor entrances
– Groins—designed to trap sand
• Hard stabilization parallel to the coast:
– Breakwaters—built beyond the surf zone
– Seawalls—built to armor the coast
 Jetties and Groins
• Jetties are always
in pairs
• Groins can be
singular or many
(groin field)
• Both trap sand
upstream and
cause erosion
downstream
Figure 10-21
 Breakwater at Santa Barbara
Harbor, California
• Provides a boat
anchorage
• Causes
deposition in
harbor and
erosion
downstream
• Sand must be
dredged
regularly
Figure 10-22
 Seawalls and beaches
• Seawalls are built to
reduce erosion on
beaches
• Seawalls can destroy
recreational beaches
• Seawalls are costly
and eventually fail

Figure 10-24
Alternatives to hard stabilization
• Restrict the building of
structures too close to
the shore
• Eliminate programs
that encourage
construction in unsafe
locations
• Relocate structures as
erosion threatens
them Relocation of the Cape Hatteras
lighthouse, North Carolina
Figure 10C