TEXTILE TESTING AND QUALITY

CONTROL

1ST ASSIGNMENT SUBMISSION

SUBMITTED TO
Mr. Shakeel Iqbal

SUBMITTED BY
Tripti Keshan
MFM/19/101
 FABRIC CHOSEN

 Fibre composition-100% cotton

 Fabric structure- Woven, plain
weave

The fabric is dark in color and has

the same print all over. It is
absorbent and light weight which
makes it appropriate for
garments like kurta , palazzo etc,.
 END USE
• PALAZZO pants are long women’s
trousers cut with a loose ,
extremely wide leg that flares out
from the waist.

• Palazzo trousers are popular as a

summer season style, as they are
loose and tend to be flattering in
light , flowing fabrics that are
breathable in hot weather
Properties required to be
tested…
• Fibre Identification
• Abrasion Resistance
• Tearing strength
• Tensile strength
• Pilling test
• Color Fastness to washing
1.Fibre Identification
The fibre composition will be identified using two tests
namely
I. Burning test
II. Chemical test
I. Burning Test: Fabric Identification is done with a simple
fabric burn test or fiber burn test. Flammability testing is
best to know the identification of fabric.

Procedure:
• To recognize the composition of fabrics by the burning
test, the sample of fibre , yarn of fabric should be moved
slowly towards a small flame and the reaction to heat
carefully observed.

• One end of the sample should be put directly into flame to

determine its burning rate and characteristics. The burning
odour should be noted and the characteristics of the ash
such as amount, form, hardness and color should be
examined.
I. Chemical Test: In these type of tests, chemicals are used as a part
of test procedure.

Procedure:
• A sample is poured in a test tube with a small quantity of acid,
caustic solution or other solvents in hot, cold,
concentrated or in diluted form.
• Depending on the material types the fibers will swell, shrink,
completely dissolve or remain unaltered.
• The following chemical tests can be done to determine the cotton
fibre; treatment with H2SO4: with concentrated H2SO4 cotton
fibre will be destroyed, i.e. the cellulose components will be
dissolved.
2. Abrasion Resistance

MARTINDALE ABRASION TESTER

• Martindale Abrasion cum Pilling Tester is used to check the
abrasion as well as pilling resistance of the fabric.

• It consists of four testing plates on which the abrading fabrics

is attached, these four testing table are mounted on the base
plate of the instrument.

• There is revolving plate, which revolves with the help of three

cranks, pegs & motor. There are four sleeves attached on the
revolving plate.

• The sample holders for abrasion & pilling testing are provided

with the instrument. There is a set of weights for proper
pressure on the test specimens.

• Templates for cutting the samples & abrading cloth and their
mallet are also supplied as standard accessory.
Working Procedure:

1. At first cut the fabric into 4 pieces according to the measurement

of the instrument.
2. Weigh(X1) these 4 pieces of fabric samples.
3. Now place these samples in the instrument under a certain load
as supplied in the instrument.
4. Now start the machine and observe the counter of abrasion no.
5. Stop the machine power after completing 50,000 cycles take the
weight (x2) in mg.
6. Now put the weights before and after abrasions in a table and
find out the wear index (I). 
SNO. Sample wt (x1) No. of Sample wt Wt loss Wear index
before abrasion (x2) before (mg) (I) %
abrasion(mg) cycle abrasion(mg)
1 870 50,000 590 280 0.56
Calculation:
Suppose for s/n 1 : we got cycle = 50000, wt. loss = 280gm
therefore,

Wear Index (I) = {(weight lose in mg)/no. of cycles }*100

= (280/50000)*100 = 0.56 %

Result:
Wear index for 50000 cycle = 0.56 %
3. Tearing strength

ELMENDORF TEAR TESTER

• The Elmendorf tear tester is a pendulum type ballistic tester which
measures energy loss during tearing.
• The apparatus consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a
clamp which is in alignment with a fixed clamp when the pendulum
is in the raised starting position, where it has maximum potential
energy.
• The specimen is fastened between the 2 clamps. The pendulum is
then released and the specimen is torn as the moving jaw moves
away from the fixed one
• The pendulum possesses potential energy because of its starting
height. Some of the energy is lost in tearing through the fabric so
that as the pendulum swings through its lowest position it is not
able to swing to the same height as it started from.
• The difference between starting height and finishing height is
proportional to the energy lost in tearing the fabric
• The Scale attached to the pendulum can be graduated to read the
tearing force directly.
Working Procedure:

• A fabric is taken.
    • Warp and weft direction of the fabric was identified.
• The apparatus consists of a sector-shaped pendulum carrying a
moving sample clamp and the other clamp is fixed on the
frame.
• When the pendulum is in the raised starting position, the
specimen is fastened between the two clamps.
• The tear is started by a slit cut in the specimen between the
clamps.
• The pendulum is then released and the specimen is torn as the
moving clamp moves away from the fixed one.
• The pointer attached to the pendulum which is graduated to
read the tearing force directly.
4. Tensile Strength

MARTINDALE ABRASION TESTER

Strip Strength Test:

• Five fabric samples are extended in a direction parallel to the

warp and five parallel to the weft.
• The specimens are cut to a size of 2.5 inch in width and then
removing threads from both edges until the width has been
reduced to 2 inch.
• The test length should be 8 inch between the jaws and so enough
extra length must be allowed for gripping in the jaws.
• Under optimum conditions, the specimen will be
mounted centrally. Security gripped along the full width to
prevent slipping.
• The load is applied uniformly across the full specimen width till
the specimen tear out.
• If a test specimen breaks within 0.25 inch of the line of contact of
either of the pairs of jaws at a load less than the average of
normal breaks, the result should not be used in calculation.
Grab Strength Test:

• At first we take specimen 4”x6”.

• Then the specimen is marked by a pencil at 1.5“from the edge of
the specimen to assist in clamping it so that the same set of
threads are clamped in both jaws.
• The two jaws are fixed on both side of the specimen from 1”
edge. This means that only the central 1 inch of the fabric is
stressed.
• The gauge length used is 3 inch and the speed is adjusted so
that the sample is broken in 20 ± 3s.
• One jaw is fixed another jaws moveable.
• Then the moveable jaws start to move outwards till the
specimen is tear out.
5. Pilling Strength

ICI PILLING BOX TESTER

PROCEDURE:

• Four specimen each of 125mm*125mm are cut from the fabric. A

seam allowance of 12mm is marked on the back of each square.
• In 2 of the samples the seam is marked in the warp direction and
two in the weft direction.
• The samples are then folded face to face and a seam is sewn on
the marked line.
• Each specimen is turned inside out and 6mm cut off each end of it
thus removing any sewing distortion.
• The fabric tubes are then mounted on rubber tubes so that the
length of tube showing at each end is the same.
• Each of the loose ends is taped with PVC tape so that 6mm of the
rubber tube is exposed.
• They are tumbled together in a cork lined box.
• The usual number of revolutions in the test is 18000 which takes
around 5 hours.
RESULTS:
RATING DESCRIPTION POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED

5 No Change No visual Change

4 Slight Change Slight surface fuzzing

3 Moderate Change Either moderate fuzzing or isolated

fully formed pills or both

2 Significant change Distinct fuzzing and/0r pilling

1 Severe change Dense fuzzing or pilling which covers

the specimen
6. Color Fastness
Color fastness is the resistance of a fabric to change in its color
characteristics or to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent materials. Color
fastness issues can be caused by:
Fiber type
Dye type

Color Fastness can happen due to many reasons such as

• Color fastness to washing
• Color fastness to crocking
• Color fastness to light
• Color fastness to perspiration
• Color fastness to water
Color fastness to Washing

Gyrowash color fastness tester

• A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the colored fabric is taken and is
sandwiched between two adjacent fabric and stitched, The
sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together.
• Five different types of washing are specified as different
washing methods.
• The solution for washing should be prepared to the required
temperature of washing.
• The liquor material ratio is 50:1 . After soaping treatment,
remove the specimen, rinse twice in cold water and then in
running cold water under a tap.
• Squeeze it and air dry at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.
• The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of
grey scales.
 The grey scale consists of 9 pairs of
non glossy neutral grey colored chips
which illustrates the perceived color
differences.

They are used in assessment of color

change occurring in fastness tests as
described in ISO 105-A02

Aatcc grey scale

CONCLUSION
• All these tests will tell us about different properties of the
fabric chosen for the desired garment

• Fibre identification test will help us in identifying the fibre

composition

• The strength tests like tearing and tensile will check the
durability of the fabric i.e. whether the fabric is highly durable
, medium durable or less durable.

• Tests like Abrasion resistance and pilling will tell about the
serviceability of the fabric.

• Color Fastness to Washing test will help us in determining the

resistance of the color of the garment to domestic laundering.
REFERENCE
https://
www.intouch-quality.com/blog/5-color-fastness-tests-to-prevent-textile-fa
ding-and-staining

https://textilestudycenter.com/fabric-tensile-strength-test/

https://
qinsunlab.blogspot.com/2019/05/how-to-process-elmendorf-tear-strengt
h.html