DRESSMAKING

/
TAILORING
Lesson 1: Use of Sewing Tools
SEWING – joining two
or more pieces of
fabric together with
stitches.
A. SEWING KIT – a
collection of items that are used
in sewing.
B. Measuring Tools
1. Tape Measure – flexible
measuring device used in
taking body measurements.
2. Sewing Gauge – small ruler
with a sliding guide and is
about six inches long.
3. Rulers- use for measuring
and drawing straight seam
lines and cutting lines.

4. Yardstick – used for marking

hemlines and checking grain
lines when laying out the pattern.
5. L-square – used to transfer
measurements to the draft
pattern.

6. French Curve – used to

shape the depth of the
neck hole and armhole
of the pattern.
C. CUTTING TOOLS
1. Bent-Handled dressmaker’s shears –
these are made of quality steel and hold a
sharp cutting edge.
-- 7-12 inches long (shears)
2. Pinking Shears – popular in zigzagging or
scalloped edge
or for seam finishes.
3. Cutting Scissors
a. Trimming Scissor – 3-4 inches
long, used for trimmings,
clipping threads and
snipping slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor – 4-5 inches
finely tapered blades.
c. Buttonhole Scissor – intended
for making buttonholes.
4. Thread Clippers – handy little spring
loaded cutting tool that allows for the
snipping of threads.
5. Seam Ripper – specifically designed for
ripping out stitches from seams, either
as a result of an error or during alterations.
6. Rotary Cutter and Mat – Works like a
pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-
handed sewers.
D. MARKING TOOLS
1. Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker
pencil – used to make fine
lines on fabric
2. Liquid Marking Pen – those
that wash out should not be
used on fabric that show water marks.
3. Tailor’s Chalk – essential
as marker for use on
materials.

4. Wax Chalk – available

in black or white and is
used for woolen fabrics.
5. Tracing Wheel
a.Serrated edge- produces
dots on the fabric and is
suitable for most types of
fabrics.
b.Smooth edge wheel- best
c.for delicate fabrics
6. Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper – specially
waxed carbon paper that transfer’s the
tracing wheel’s markings to the fabric
 E. PINNING AND
SEWING TOOL
1. Pincushion- holds the straight pins and
needles while working to prevent accidents.
2. Hand needle – used in
making temporary stitches
and buttonholes.

3. Sewing Needle Threader

– aids in putting the thread
to the needle.
4. Thimble – small hard pitted cup worn for
protection on the finger that pushes the
needle in sewing.
F. MATERIALS
1.Fabric – cloth used in making
garments
2.Thread – used in assembling or
constructing the parts of the garment.
 Types of SEWING
MACHINE
1.Lockstitch Sewing
Machine – usually used
in homes and sometimes
in school; also called as
domestic sewing machine.
2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine –
sometimes called
“straight stitching machine”
or industrial sewing
machine. It has automatic
lubrication and is used
by tailors and dressmakers
3. Over Edging Machine – small machine. It
finishes the raw edges of the pattern for
construction.
4. Embroidery Machine – used in making
fancy stitches and making different kinds of
embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong
tagalog, pillow cases, linen and other novelty
items.
5. Button Holer Machine – used in making
buttonholes on garments.
6. Button Attachment Machine – used in
attaching buttons to the garments.
7. Double Needle Machine – use in the
construction of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, out seam and side
seam.
8. Bartacking Machine – this is used in
reinforcing the opening and closing pockets.
 TWO MAJOR PARTS OF THE
LOCKSTITCH SEWING
MACHINE
1.The upper part of Sewing machine
a. Head – the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.
b. Arm – is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for
operating the needle.
c. Bed – the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog
where it is mounted, and the shuttle and lower thread are placed.
Parts of the sewing machine in the arm.
1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and
interlocks with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
Parts of the sewing machine in the arm.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used
for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
Parts of the sewing machine in the arm.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened
and starts
Parts of the sewing machine in the arm.
Parts of the sewing machine under the
bed.
1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the
bobbin threads come out.
4. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the Shuttle and bobbin
case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.
Parts of the sewing machine under the bed.
2. The Lower part of the Lock Stitch
Sewing Machine
The lower parts of the sewing machine are the
cabinet and the stand. The cabinet has drawers and
screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head.
The following are the lower parts of the sewing
machine and their uses:
2. The Lower part of the Lock Stitch
Sewing Machine
1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the
belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
2. The Lower part of the Lock Stitch
Sewing Machine
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the
band wheel through the pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by
interlocking screw on the hinges.
The Lower part of the Lock Stitch Sewing
Machine