includes Vyshyvanka. It is a casual name for the embroidered shirt in national costumes. Ukrainian vyshyvanka is distinguished by local embroidery features specific to Ukrainian embroidery. A folk costume (also regional costume, national costume, traditional garment, or traditional regalia) expresses an identity through costume, which is usually associated with a geographic area or a period of time in history.
• Many Ukrainian brands have created
their own interpretations of its shape, colour and length, thus, making it a popular item all over the world. Fashion celebrities like Anna dello Russo (Vogue Japan journalist) and Dita Von Teese have been spotted in vyshyvanka by Ukrainian designer Vita Kin. Locals do not miss the opportunity to show off in the embroidered clothing either. A girl is supposed to wear a shirt without outerwear, while a married woman has to cover her head with a shawl and supplement the outfit with her waistcoat and maxi skirt. Meanwhile, the highlight of the clothing are accessories like belts, jewellery and headdresses (a shawl or a floral wreath), decorated with ribbons and fresh and artificial flowers, not to mention the abundance of beads and ducats (coins), which determine the women’s status. Men’s traditional clothing is simpler: they resemble the outfits of other Slavic nations but differ in the way they are worn. Thus, there are two main elements: a linen shirt and cloth pants, distinguished by the kind of embroidery • REGIONAL CLOTHING DIFFERENCES Western Ukraine Western Ukrainian apparel reflected its Polish and Hungarian historical past and was distinguished by complex geometrical patterns. The richness of decorative elements like embroidery, weaving and appliqué prevailed in the Carpathian region. However, the geometric ornamental motifs of rhombuses, triangles and crosses were implemented in the multicoloured embroidery with a predominance of red and black. The clothing was also decorated with coloured beads, silver or gold thread and metal elements. Hutsuls (an ethnic group of Ukrainians that inhabited the Carpathian Mountains) decorated the bottom edge of trousers with embroidery from the inside — yellow and green woolen threads — and folded it upwards • the clothing of Northern Ukraine was distinguished by the modesty of traditional decorative elements. A fair amount of attention was paid to weaving and embroidering in monochrome or bicolour combinations. Black and red threads symbolized the wisdom and courage of generations, while red and white embroidery signified purity and happiness. Thus, the apparel design in Polisia (a historical region in Northern Ukraine and Central Europe) was quite restrained and had clear geometric ornamental patterns. • Eastern Ukraine The traditional apparel of Eastern Ukraine is a combination of both the local features of the ancient Slavic clothing and Russian cultural influence. So, shirts preserved the simple tailoring with narrow sleeves and neat decoration on the sleeve’s cuff. Multicoloured embroidery was complemented by elements like bright ribbons, lace and grey fringe. Ornamental elements and waist accessories also played a significant role and were appliquéd from brocade or cotton velvet. • Central Ukraine The central areas like Poltava were characterized by white-on-white embroidery and also by a large amount of black and red patterns. The ornamentation was geometric or vegetative, and considerably less zoomorphic. In the 20th century, women began to use multicoloured threads to decorate shirts, while in the 17th and 19th centuries the embroidery was minimalistic — just red and blue on white. Another key feature was the decoration of sleeveless and outer clothing with a cotton appliqué.
Orientalizing Costume in Early Fifteenth-Century French Manuscript Painting (Cité Des Dames Master, Limbourg Brothers, Boucicaut Master, and Bedford Master) by Joyce Kubiski