Basic Material and Processes II

Assignment # 2

WEEK 3, 4 ,5
 SUBTRACTIVE SCULPTURE
(PLASTER CARVING)
Subtractive sculpture is the oldest form of sculpture and involves
removing material, as in wood carving or stone sculpture, to
create a finished work. Subtractive sculpture is by far the most
technically difficult and due to the nature of the medium is the
most restrictive in expression.
Assignment Handout
• Students will learn how to made a Plaster of Paris Cube. . (Live Demo
in the Class)
• Student will learn how to Mix, Pour, and set the Plaster of Paris. (Live
Demo in the Class)
Primary Emphasis:
Design: design must be repetitive (organic/geometric)
Form: Three-dimensional Form (Cube)
Secondary Emphasis:
Positive and Negative Space.
The alternating employment of shallow and deep cuts through the plaster
should be used to create different levels of light tonality. Texture is also
important in creating interest, since different textures will reflect the light
in a different manner, contributing thus in the creation of a rich design.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Making
Plaster Block making

Demonstration:
What is Plaster of Paris ?

Plaster : made of gypsum -hydroscopic = water seeking, after

processing it is in a state of perpetual thirst -when plaster is
added to water it crystallizes and hardens -homogeneous –
predictable, easy to work with -it expands and heats up while
hardening -it sticks to skin and hair along with many other things
– be cautious and aware when using.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving
Step One: Plaster Mixing

Mixing of plaster

 Take plaster. Pottery Plaster #1 is best because the particle sizes are small
and will capture detail the best. But if you can't get this, normal Plaster of
Paris will work.
 Put on a dust mask.
 Add water to a bucket. It should be between cool and room temperature. 
 Using a cup or scoop, start adding plaster to the water. Sprinkle the plaster
out evenly over the whole surface of the water. You don't have to be in a
big hurry, but don't work too slowly or the plaster will start to set. Some
people prefer to sift the plaster into the water. At first the plaster will sit on
the surface of the water very briefly before it disappears beneath the
surface of the water. (This is called "slaking".)
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving
Step One: Plaster Mixing

 Keep adding plaster, sprinkling it in the same manner. After a while the
plaster will be visible for a few seconds before it disappears into the water.
You are getting close... Keep adding plaster. When you add plaster and
can count to 5 before it disappears, you have enough. Let it sit for 1-2
minutes to wet the plaster particles (this helps reduce air bubbles).
 Mix. You want to make sure that you aren't adding air to your plaster, or
you will get bubbles which will cause problems later. So if you use an
electric mixer make sure to keep the blade deep in the plaster. Or, just take
your hand (a glove is useful) and place it at the bottom of the bucket, and
slowly move your hand back and forth across the bottom of the bucket.
This slowly wets all the particles.
 When you can draw a line in the plaster and it doesn't immediately flatten
back out, the plaster is ready to pour.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving
Step 2: Plaster Pouring

 The goal in pouring the plaster is to avoid introducing air pockets,

particularly at the surface that you are going to be using.
 Pour slowly.
 Some people allow the stream of plaster to run off the palm of their hand,
thus slowing it down.
 It is helpful to apply a thin coating all over the surface and allow it to set a
little before pouring the final amount necessary for the mold. If the air
bubbles come to the top of the thin surface, they will be away from the
actual surface you will be using. (This is especially useful if you are
pouring upside down, i.e. will use the bottom surface of the mold you are
pouring.)
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving
Step 2: Plaster Pouring

After pouring, pick up your container and softly tap it on the table or the floor. Or if
it is too big, tap the edges and shake from side to side. You are trying to get air
bubbles to the surface.
And perhaps the ultimate trick. Use rubbing or denatured alcohol in a spray bottle
(some people dilute, some don't). When the plaster mixing is almost complete, spray
a couple bursts into the plaster. This breaks down the surface tension of bubbles on
top and they disappear. After pouring you can repeat this when there are bubbles that
have risen to the top of the mold. (This is especially useful if you will be using the
top surface of the mold you are pouring.)
Smooth the top of your plaster item with a rib or something like that, and let it set.
Clean your bucket and tools at this time.
If you are pouring a very large mold, or for some reason didn't mix enough plaster in
the first batch, immediately start mixing the second batch. When it is ready you can
pour it over the existing plaster. Scratch crisscross lines into the top of the first layer
before pouring the second layer to help them adhere together.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving
Step 2: Plaster Pouring

• There will be a point where the plaster is hard, but still wet enough to
easily carve. This is a good time to put the item on your wheel and trim it,
or trim off the rough edges by hand, or start carving your designs.

• It can take many months for a large plaster mold to completely dry out, so
it will continue to get lighter as that happens. But it is usable immediately.
If using the same piece of plaster over and over, it will eventually become
too wet to release the clay. Let it dry and it will again work fine. If you
can't wait for the plaster to dry, you can sprinkle with talc.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Making
Step 2: Plaster Pouring

Tips

• Here is a beautiful thing about plaster. If you ever want to carve into it
later, you can soak it in water, re-wet it, and it will become soft enough
to carve into. You can do this at any time.
• Bags of plaster should be kept in a dry place. If they absorb a lot of
water in the bag, they set up much faster and are more difficult to work
with. If your plaster has absorbed water, you can refresh it by heating it
to around 700 deg. F. to remove the moisture.
• There are actual suggested ratios of plaster to water for various plaster
mixes, and some people use those. But most people I know use some
rule of thumb similar to the one here to achieve the correct consistency.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Making
Plaster Stages

• From the moment you begin to mix until it is set, plaster goes
through a number of stages:
• 1.The liquid stage: This stage occurs immediately after mixing
with water. The mixture at this stage can be poured, brushed and
thrown. It lasts about 15 minutes.
• 2.The putty stage: The plaster thickens to the consistency of
toothpaste. In this stage, plaster can be applied with a putty knife
or spatula, and it can be modeled like clay. It lasts about 5 minutes.
• 3.The rigid stage: Occurs once the mixture begins to set. The
plaster becomes brittle and it can be cut with a knife or dug into
with a spoon. The plaster is very fragile and should not be vibrated,
dropped or have pressure on it.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Making
Plaster Stages

• 4.The set stage: The plaster begins to heat up and obviously

hardens. The heat that is radiated depends on the size of the
mixture and the setting speed. When the plaster cools, it is a good
time to remove it from the mold and trim any unwanted edges
since it is still very pliable
• 5.The cure stage: Lasts from the time the plaster cools until it
dries completely. The mixture hardens substantially and metal tools
are required for its manipulation. Because it still contains about
18% water, the tools get clogged and require cleaning quite often.
• 6.The dry stage: The plaster no longer contains moisture and it is
at maximum strength and very brittle at this stage. It can be sanded
with sandpaper or painted.
Materials
 A small plastic bucket for plaster mixing.
 2-3 Plastic garbage bags (small) to line your bucket.
 Removable container for plaster casting (it might be necessary to remove it
away from the plaster). Molds will provided by studio
 A stack of old newspapers or brown paper. You must absolutely cover your
table during carving.
 Carving tools (basic wood carving tools) Old Wood chisels are ideal.
Remember that plaster contains water and any steel tools will eventually
rust.
 Sandpaper for smoothing the surface during the final stages. The degree of
smoothness you desire will determine the sandpaper grit you will need. Get
a pack of assorted grits. Ideally you will need one of each: 80, 100, 220,
320, and 600 grit.
Tools
Week # 4
Assignment: Block Carving.
Step 3: Sketching ,Designing ,Transforming the sketch on the Cube.

• Student will learn the Repetitive Design making techniques

(Live Demo in the Class).

• Students will sketch minimum 5 repetitive designs according

to the scale of the cube they have made (4 x 4 inches ).

• Students will learn to transform their selected design sketch on

the plaster of Paris cube (Live Demo in the Class).
Week # 4
Assignment: Block Carving.
Step 4: How to Carve Plaster of Paris Cube (Subtractive method).

• Students will learn how to use the carving tools in the class
(Live demo in the Class).

• Student will learn the carving methods , how to hold the tool
etc.(Live demo in the Class).

• Student will learn to create levels in carving.

• Students will carve their selected design in the class and the
will bring their carved form (cube) in the next week class.
Week # 3
Assignment: Block Carving.
Step 4: Carving Method (Subtractive).

• Carving is a methodical and time-consuming activity.  It demands patience

and a great deal of focus since the carved material is always prone to
breaking when the sculptor is careless.  In this sense, the sculptor is
required to become one with his material and to anticipate the intentions of
its object before any accidents occur.

• The carving technique is universal for all material in the way that the
sculptor will remove first the large unwanted portions of mass before
proceeding to break smaller and smaller pieces as he/she approaches the
surface of the desired forms.  The final stages of the form revelation often
involve careful and time consuming sanding, polishing, and depending on
the material, finishing the sculpture by sealing its surface.
Week # 5
Assignment: Finishing the Carving.
Step 5: Finishing technique .

Plaster can take a good polish by methodic sanding. Begin with a

rough grid (80 or 100 will do fine), and work the polish up with
successive passes of finer and finer sandpaper and finish by "wet-
sanding" the surface with 300 or even 600 grid sandpaper.

In order to paint or seal the surface, the plaster must be

thoroughly dry for a period of about 2 weeks (depending on the
humidity and temperature).
Week # 5
Assignment: Block Finishing.
Step 5: Finishing technique .

• Students will bring carved and dry form in the class.

• Students will learn the how to clean & finish the form
by sanding (Live demo in the Class).

• Student will learn to prepare your working space for

carving and finishing (Live demo in the Class).
Week # 5
Assignment: Block Finishing.
Instructions for working in Studio .

• Cover the tables with brown paper or newspapers while you

carve.

• Cleanup after you are done.

• Dress for a mess!

• Plaster and molds will be provided by the studio.

• Use ONLY the assigned chisels to carve plaster (the moisture in

plaster will ruin any good chisel).
Week # 5
Assignment: Block Finishing.
Instructions for Safety .

Plaster is a safe material to work with. You might want to use a face
mask while you mix plaster, and if your skin is sensitive and dry, use
a pair of latex gloves. Once the plaster sets, the only danger might
come from the mass falling on your foot (be careful!), and from
sharp carving instruments. Always carve away from your body!

GOOD LUCK!