APPAREL

PRODUCTION
PLANNING
AND
CONTROL
A S S I G N M E N T 1

Presented By:
Nainsi Mohabey
Shouvik Roy
Sreedhara Aakanksha
INDEX
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What is Cutting Room?

Cutting Room WorkFlow

Cutting Room Planning Process

Cutting Room Capacity Planning

Capacity Calculation

Cut Order Plan

Marker Efficiency

Economical Cutting PLan

References
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What is cutting room ?

The cutting room is an unit or division in a factory that
produces clothing where the process of cutting fabric is
carried out. Using industrial machinery, garment
components or parts are cut from the textile fabrics to
create ready-made clothing. A clothing industry must cut
hundreds of garments per day to produce them in bulk.

In an industrial production system, a separate department

for cutting activities is usually established on the same
level as production or on a distinct floor in a multi-story
structure. A cutting manager (or cutting room in-charge)
oversees the cutting room and often reports to the project
coordinator of a garment manufacturer.
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Compared to other materials used to make clothing,

fabric is an expensive item. As a result, the cutting room
plans ahead, creates markers, and cuts precisely to limit
fabric loss.

Fabric is a pricey material when compared to other

supplies needed to produce garments. In order to
minimise fabric waste, the cutting room prepares ahead
of time, makes marks, and cuts accurately.

Due to the possibility of orders containing various

sizes and color, the cutting room is essential for
cutting clothing.
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In large businesses with several manufacturing facilities, a centralised cutting room used to be built
up. Cutting bundles (cut portions) are transferred to the manufacturing facilities where sewing
operations are carried out after the fabrics have been cut for the various orders. Large organisations
want centralised cutting rooms for a variety of reasons, including better utilisation of the equipment
and labour. Fabric cutting is done in the cutting room of the garment exporters, even for
manufacturing job-work.

Different kinds of textiles and trimmings are employed in

certain clothing designs with many colour combinations. To
prevent errors during the stitching process, cutting departments
control the cutting and bundling of all the components.
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Cutting Room Overveiw

Cutting is the first step in the creation of clothing. The cloth is chopped into sections during this
operation (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes, etc.).

Multiple layers of cloth are spread out on a table during mass manufacturing, and many outfits
are cut at once. Stack of placed cloth is referred to as a lay.
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cutting section
cut plan and cut ratio received from planner

Fabric received from Fabric Relaxation

fabric spreading
fabric store (if needed)

Paper pattern/marker received from CAD

Maker making on the lay
department

Cutting the lay using cutting machine

shorting and
bunding
Checking cut Store bundles and
Shorting panels and
Ply numbering dispatch for sewing
components section
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The cutting process includes a number of sub-processes and the

flow of the processes is as follows.

1. Pattern / Marker:
Different garment sections' patterns are created on pattern paper and
cut into pattern pieces based on the design and fit. These pattern
pieces are used to create markers for manual usage. However, with a
CAD system, patterns are created on a computer. Later, marks are
created on the sheet using a plotter marker. In the second instance, a
ready marker is sent to the cutting department.
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2. Receiving the cut ratio: 3. Fabric receiving:

Before cutting, the cutting department receives a work The amount of fabric neededfor an order is
sheet from the planning department, the merchandiser, determined by the average amount of fabric
or the production manager that consumed by the marker. If ordering numerous
includes the total number of garment pieces to be shades, a requirement is established according to
cut, the sizes ratio of the garments, and a each colors. Fabric is distributed by the fabric
breakdown of sizes by [Link] or more department for use in cutting (generally
markers are prepared by the cutting requisition slip is used).
depending on the size and color ratio. At this step,crew
the
number of cuts to be made and the marker length are
planned.
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4. Fabric relaxation :
It is an optional step. specifically for fabrics that knit. The cloth
stretches as it is rolled. Therefore, it is crucial to put the cloth on a
firm form because otherwise, the finished garment would shrink. The
cloth roll, or thn, is spread out and left for around 24 hours in
order to relax.

5. Spreading (Fabric Layering):

During this stage, fabric sheets are stacked one on top of the other
while keeping the proper ply tension and a manufacturer length that
has been predetermined. To prevent issues with cutting quality, fabric
is layered up to a particular height. Spreading can be done manually
or automatically using a layering machine. The cloth edge is oriented
at one side while layering it.
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6. Marker Making:
After a lay has been layered, the top layer of the lay is covered
with ready-made paper designs (or ready markers created by a
plotter). Marking chalk is used to draw markings around each
pattern form while manufacturing handmade markers. Making
markers is the name of this technique. All parts of the garment
are placed in a marker.

7. Cutting:
Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay.
Cutting is done using a straight knife or other cutting means. In
the cutting process, the garment component are separated. On the
basis of pattern shape, different cutting methods/machines are
selected.
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8. Numbering:

Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all components from the same
layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. Between the cutting and
sewing processes cut components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery.
There is a maximum chance of mixing the components. If there is a layer number in each component
then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together.
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9. Sorting:
According to the production system (Make through, progressive
bundle or one-piece flow system) cut components are sorted. In
sorting all components of a garment placed together. Size-wise sorting
and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay, colour wise sorting
will be required.

10. Bundling:

A specific number of pieces with complete components are linked

together in accordance with the demands of the manufacturing line.
Bundling is the term for this action. Each bundle is identified by the
number of the bundle, the style name, the size number, and the number
of pieces in that bundle. Cuttings may now be sent to a production line
to be stitched.
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SPREADERS

PLANNING MARKERS

PRODUCTION

MANUAL
SPREADING
MACHINE

MACHINE

CUTTING DIE PRESS

COMPUTER

SHADE MARKING

PREPARATION
TICKETING
FOR SEWING

BUNDLES
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Cutting Room Capacity

Planning
Planning and optimizing the use of cutting machines with respect to the parameters of the
production orders and the required cutting method.

List of functions :
Workplaces management
Adjustment of production capacity for workplaces
Shifts and breaks management
Service breaks planning
Automatic or manual planning of production
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Capacity Calculation

1. Do cycle time of Jobs (time study for 5 – 10 cycles)

2. Do performance rating ( Assess how fast or slow the operator doing the job in 1-100 scale)
3. Calculate Basic time (Basic time = cycle time X performance rating)
4. Add allowances (machine allowance + personal fatigue)
5. Calculate standard minutes (SAM = Basic time + Allowance percentages)

Cutting capacity (in pieces) = (Capacity in hours*60/product SAM)*line efficiency

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Operations Units for cutting operation SAM

1 Spreading Calculate SAM per layer.

Manual marking: Calculate SAM for each

2 Marker making [Link] marker: Calculate SAM per
lay (Cut)

3 Cutting Calculate SAM per marker.

4 SAM per garment

Fusing Re-cutting SAM can be calculated based

5 on the number of layers cutter cut.

Re-cutting
6 Calculate SAM per marker

Sorting Numbering SAM can be calculated per

garment. For that first, find SAM per
7 component and later multiply how many
components are numbered
Numbering/ ticketing

Calculate Bundling SAM per marker

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Cutting
Plan
Cut Order Plan is basically optimizing the cutting process under certain constraints by
following certain parameters.

Cut order plan is also referred as lay plan or cut plan in apparel industry. A good cut order plan
will require less time and effort for spreading and will use lesser fabric per garment
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Inputs required for creating a cut order

plan
1. Number of garments to cut – Order quantity
2. Size wise breakup , Like S:M:L:XL = [Link]
3. Maximum Number of sizes on a marker.
4. Available Fabric information – Width , Shrinkage , Shade and quantity.

Cut Order Planning

5. It translates customer orders into cutting orders.
6. It is the process that coordinates customer orders with all the variables of marker making,
spreading, and cutting to minimize total production costs and meet customer demand for timely
products.
7. It seeks most effective use of labor,equipment, fabric and space.
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Results of

Cut Order Planning

Cutting Orders

Leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

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Marker
Efficiency
This is the ratio of fabric actually used on the marker to total available fabric. Marker efficiency is
calculated for one marker at a time and cannot be generalized for the entire order. This metric is
mostly automatically calculated by CAD machines.

Area of marker used for garment: The CAD system calculates the area of all the patterns placed
on the marker.

Total area of marker: This is simple multiplication of length X width.

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Economical Cutting
Plan
An economical cut order plan is a logical division of an order quantity into lays (spread) of
fabric such that desired number of garment pieces can be cut in the required size ratio.

Economical cut order plan is made to minimize time and effort in cutting as well as to utilize
fabric efficiently.
EXAMPLES
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Example 1 :- Size :- 36 38 40 42 44

Quantity :- 150
100 200 175 75
Single gmt marker :- 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 ,2.3 , 2.4.
length

1gmt 2gmt 3gmt 4gmt

Spreading time/ply (mins) :- 0.75 0.80 0.85 0.90

Fabric saving % : 0 2 3 6

Marker Preparation time (hr) 0.5 0.75 0.90 1.0

Fabric cost is Rs 4.00 per meter

Cutting time per garment marked 15 minutes
Maximum no of garment per marker - 4
Maximum no of plies -100
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End allowance 4 cm per ply

1. Compare with reference to size 44, the economic of cutting:
(a) a shallow lay using a multi-garment marker
(b) a deeper lay using a single garment marker
2. Calculate the total cutting room cost using an economical lay plan
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Solution:-

A shallow lay using a multi- garment marker

Marker length: (3X2.4)X97/100 = 6.984 m

Ply length: 6.984+0.040= 7.024 m
Lay length:7.024X25=175.60
Material cost: 175.60X4.00=Rs 702.40
Labour cost:
Time for marker making 0.90X60 = 54.00 minutes
Time for spreading 0.85X 25 = 21.25 minutes Time
for cutting 15.0X3 = 45.00 minutes
Total time requirements
120.25 minutes
Labour costs: (120.25/60)X2.00 = Rs 4.01
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A deeper lay using a single garment marker

Marker length :-2.4m

Ply length 2.4X0.04 =2.44m Lay
length 2.44X 75 =183.00m
Material cost 183.00X4.00 =Rs
732.00
Time for marker making 30.00X1 =30.00 min
Time for spreading 0.75X75 =56.25 min Time
for cutting 15.0X1 = 15.00 min
Total time requirements =101.25 min
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Total cutting room cost using an economical lay plan The

marker plan selected is
Lay 1 – 75 plies 44 38 38 42
Lay 2 – 100 plies 40 40 36 42

Material Costs
Marker length (lay 1) (2.4+2.1+2.1+2.3)X94/100= 8.366m
Marker length (lay 2)(2.0+2.2+2.2+2.3)X94/100= 8.178m Ply
length (lay 1) 8.366+0.040= 8.406m
Ply length (lay 2) 8.218+0.040= 8.218m
Lay length (lay 1) 8.406X75= 630.45m
Lay length (lay 2) 8.218X100= 821.80m
Material cost (lay 1) 630.45X4.00= Rs 2521.80
Material cost (lay 2) 821.80X4.00= Rs 3287.20
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Time for marker making (lay 1-2) 1.00X60=60.00 min

Time for spreading (lay 1): 0.90X75 =67.50 min
Time for spreading (lay 2): 0.90X100=90.00 min
Time for cutting (lay 1-2) 15.0X4 = 60.00min Total
time requirements (lay 1) 127.50 min Total time
requirements (lay 2) 150.00 min

Total time requirement =277.50 min

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Example 2

Suppose a factory has 8 sewing lines and each line has 25 machines. Total 200 machines and the
working shift is 10 hours per day. If the factory is producing only one style (Shirt) of SAM 25 minutes
and used all 200 machines daily production capacity at 50%

Total factory capacity per day is 2000 hours (200 machines * 10 hours)
= (2000*60/25)*50% Pieces
= (2000*60*50) / (25*100) Pieces
= (6000000/2500) Pieces
= 2400 Pieces
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CONCLUSION
Before planning of cutting, availability of material must be planned according to daily requirement.
Number of garments to be cut of each design multiplied with consumption per garment = daily
requirement of fabric of each design. This may be only an idea to plan and measure the cutting
department work and accordingly crosscheck the outcome of plan. This idea is based on basic
machinery, which is used by most of the factories. Factories, which are using CAD / CAM, auto
spreader, auto cutter etc would plan as according to their improved machinery.

Along with plan a proper work-study is required to monitor for any loopholes and any method
improvement required for achieving the target and goal. Through proper plan waiting time may be
reduced hence optimum utilization of infrastructure and employee / manpower, may be achieved.
Reference:

[Link]
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[Link] [Link]
estimate-production-capacity-of-a-garment- factory/
THANK YOU