FABRIC SPREADING AND CUTTING PROCESS:

 The spreading and cutting department, also known as the cutting room, is the area of
any apparel manufacturing facility where multiple layers of cloth are pieced together
according to a pattern to create a garment. In the production of clothing, the
distributing and cutting department is particularly crucial; without a cutting
department, a garment cannot be produced in large quantities. To create any
garment, the fabric is first cut using the first pattern. The fabric is divided into several
pieces, which are then sent to the sewing section to be stitched together to create the
finished article of clothing.

 The cutting room is extremely important to the clothing business. After the buyer has
confirmed the order, the cutting department is the only one capable of performing this
bulk cutting, which is the first stage in the garment manufacturing process. The
production manager gives this directive to the distributing and cutting division. The
entire order is ruined if the fabric is not cut correctly in accordance with the design. In
other words, the cutting department serves as the industry's basic cornerstone.

 The cutting room's primary duty is to cut the fabric in accordance with the plan. First,
the manufacturing department receives the pattern for the garment from the cutting
department. The cutting master then spreads the various pattern components to the
proper position above the spread fabric. Following this, all of the pattern's
components are marked off with chalk before being sliced together by a cutting
machine.
The Work in the Fabric Spreading and Cutting Department:
1. Take fabric from the fabric store: The production manager gives the cutting
department the command to cut the fabric. Following order receipt, the in-charge
of cutting provides the fabric specifications and purchases the fabric from the
fabric shop.

2. Fabric relaxation: Woven fabric relaxes more quickly than knitted fabric. In
order to spread the fabric out on the table and let it air dry overnight, the cutting
department first opens the fabric rolls after receiving it from the fabric shop. The
cloth is consequently completely rested.

3. Planning for cut orders: Before cutting any order, the cutting master makes a
strategy. The cutting master, garment design, number of patterns, pattern
elements, kinds of fabrics, fabric prints, fabric designs, embroidery, fabric
spreading length and thickness, cutting machine accessibility, etc. are all taken
into consideration during this planning process. Cutting is error-free, and cutting
waste should be kept to a minimum.

4. Planning and creating markers: After spreading the fabric, the cutting master evenly
distributes the pattern across the top surface. First the large portions of the pattern are
spread, and later the smaller parts are spread. With the aid of chalk, these stretched
patterns are now traced onto the cloth, and after marking, all of the pattern's components are
eliminated.
5. Fabric Spreading: Spreading the fabric correctly is essential before cutting is done. The
cloth can be spread out on big tables in the cutting area. For bulk manufacturing, several
fabric layers are spread out on these tables.

 The amount of cloth to be spread out on the table is kept to the appropriate length,
and the number of layers is chosen in accordance with the cutting machine or cutting
sequence.
 When fabric is spread, it is unwound from big rolls and laid in layers with
predetermined lengths on long, wide tables.
 The desired quantity of garments and fabric thickness determine the number of lays.
 The usable fabric breadth less selvedge or needle marks brought on by stencil marks
is the maximum cutting width.
 The percentage of the overall fabric area that is truly used as fabric in the marker is
known as fabric utilization.
 The highest layer is where the cutting marker is placed.
 The complete garment lay, which includes both left and right pieces, is used because
open width fabric is used.
 Multiple Ply is a type of lay in which several fabric layers are piled on top of one
another.
Laying Parameter:

 Pattern Matching.
 Relaxing the fabric to remove all the tension.
 Alignment of ply edges in correct position over each other.
Method of fabric spreading:

 Completely manual laying up.

 Electrically driven laying up by spreading machines (semi-automatic or fully
automatic)
 Manual Laying-Up Aided by spreading and cutting off devices.
 Manual Driven, mechanized laying- up using carriages.
6. Fabrics Cutting: All the layers are cut together by a cutting machine after marking by
paper template. These layers of cloth are cut using a variety of cutting machines, including
straight knife cutting machines, round knife cutting machines, band knife cutting machines,
die cutting machines, notcher machines, computerized cutting machines, etc.
Cutting parameter:

 Cutting with accuracy to guarantee that the fabric is precisely cut in accordance with
the marker plan's line drown.
 By preventing the yarn from fraying along the fabric's border, an edge is kept clean.
The cutting line must be neat and smooth. The blades of a knife must be smooth or
clean.
 All cutting sections should have the same sizes as if the knife were being used at a
right angle to the fabric's lay.
Different kinds of cutting tools:

 Scissors
 oval knife
 an uncurved dagger
 Band cutter cutting with a die (collars and cuffs)
Preparation for sewing:

 Egg-pocket locations, tucks, pocket positions, etc. are marked in position.

 Each component is identified by a specific number that is printed on a tiny ticket and
adhered to the component.
 Making bundles: according to quantity, hue, and size
 To recognize each bundle according to size, lot, style, and colour, use the bundle
tickets.
 Fusing specifications: Depending on the fabric type and final use, there are various
types of fusing’s.
Computerized method of fabric cutting:
  Knife cutting with computer guidance.
 Using a laser beam to cut.
 Water jet cutting
 Using the plasma torch to cut

FABRIC CUTTING & SPREADING PROCESS IN SHAHI EXPORTS:

Cutting involves removing pieces of fabric from the fabric to create replicas of the pattern
components.
PRIMARY WORK FLOW

The production manager gives the cutting department the command to cut a particular
style of clothing. A cutting order is the production manager's approval to remove a
specific number of styles from the spreads. It arrives as a folder file containing the
information below:
• Sampling average, garment weight (only basic fabric usage), and averages for other
trims.
• Measurement sheet
• Worksheet for the garment's design
• Purchase order
• Sheet for requesting fabric
• CAD mini pen
• Marker planning, including length of lay, size ratio, and hues to be used when cutting
out the patterns.
Actual cutting and spreading processes

 Spreading is the process of placing layers of cloth on a horizontal table in a way that
allows the layers to be simultaneously cut into assemble able parts. In order to keep
the bottom plies from shifting during cutting, a thin brown paper sheet is first taped to
the cutting table with adhesive tape. The first fabric layer is then placed on this brown
sheet to start the spreading process, and then the other plies are laid.
 This lay can be spread directly or mechanically using a spreading machine. While
manual spreading takes time, using a travelling machine produces outcomes more
quickly and accurately.
Base Level

 SPREADING: The staff in this section work three shifts.

1. 6 am to 2 pm
2. From 2:00 to 10:00
3. From 10 p.m. to 6 a.m.
In the spreading process, fabric is divided into sections of a specific length and stacked in
multiple plies. The shape, size, and quantity of the components to be cut from the fabric ply
decide its length. Layers (or plies) of cloth can also be spread by stacking them on top of
one another. The amount of plies in a spread is determined by how many articles are
needed and by the technical restrictions of the fabric spreading and cutting processes.

In this unit, there are two different kinds of spreading techniques.

1. Manual - There are five manual procedures.
• Each manual spreading procedure requires a minimum of 2 and a maximum of 3 workers.
• After each cloth lay is laid out in accordance with the prescribed length, it is cut using
electric cutting motors that are operated by the employees.
• If any excess fabrics (known as end bits) remain after the fabrics have been spread out in
accordance with the specifications, they should be folded and stored in the end bits storage
area.
• Once the spreading is finished for a particular style type, the marker sheet is spread on top
of it. They are used afterward in the re-cutting section. The section of CAD created the
marker.

2. Automatic - The business has one automatic spreading machine.

• In the automatic spreading technique, a maximum of two workers are employed.
• The spreading information is fed into the machine's programme, and it operates as a result.
• Eastman is a machine business.
• Model of machine: ES-1800W
  CUTTING:

Electrically driven straight knife cutting machines, also known as CAM machines, are used to
cut the lay. The machine is moved through the fabric layer while cutting the pieces of cloth
one at a time with a reciprocating blade.

Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces

CUTTING BLOCK
Due to the need for matching, jacquard, stripes, and checks cannot be spread using the
spreading machine and must instead be distributed manually. For precision, jacquard and
check structures are frequently spread and cut in a single number.

Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut pattern

Final precise shaping of patterns

Cutting, like spreading, has three distinct shifts:
1. From six in the morning until two in the afternoon
2. From two to ten o'clock
3. midnight to six in the morning
In order to keep the sewing department busy, the primary goal of the cutting section is to
precisely, economically, and in sufficient volume cut garment panels that are consistent with
the shape and size of the pattern.
This lesson uses two different cutting techniques.
There are two tables available for hand cutting in option
1. Manual – Two tables are available for hand cutting.
• When cutting patterns manually, the employees cut the patterns in accordance with the
markers.
• To cut the designs, the employees use straight knives.
• The employees' chain-gloved hands enable them to halt the knives in any location as
needed.
2. Automatic: There are two vacuum tables for automatic cutting, but there is only one
cutting equipment in use at Shahi Exports Unit 1. It is an Eastman ES-1800W Laser Cutting
Machine.
• The Eastman Laser Cutting Machine's vacuum tables make it simple to transfer the fabrics.
• The patterns are cut using this machine in accordance with the blueprint fed into the
Eastman Pro software.
• To make the lays sufficiently tight and prevent sliding while cutting, a cellophane sheet is
spread onto the cloth.
• Manual component separation may or may not be necessary.
TICKETING AND SORTING:
 The pieces that were cut from the lay are now arranged according to measurement.
One quantity of clothing is purchased with all of its parts.
 It is crucial to take care to avoid combining any sections cut from two separate fabric
bolts (bundles). This is due to variations in hue shade from bolt to bolt within a lot.
 Ticketing has been done for the sorted parts. The method of ticketing involves
marking the cut components to ensure accurate shade matching and sequence
identification.
 The employee flips over the cut pieces as he secures one end of the stack and
applies the ticket with a ticket gun.
 The ticket, which includes the size, bundle number, and piece number, is an
essential tool for tracking the garment's component components throughout the
entire manufacturing process.
NUMBERING: 

 To designate the garment panels that will be stitched together, numbering refers to
printing a number using an ink or stamping equipment on the garment pieces.
 Where to place the number on the clothing panels: That folds inside to conceal the
number written on it: A front panel of a garment, for instance, at the bottom.

• That will fit inside a different panel: For instance, the sleeve's inside-cuff edge.

• Which will have the clothing cut off.

Example: At the front placket's additional length.
1. Number sealing machine - In this technique, numbering is accomplished through the use
of stamps. Workers press the numbers onto the panels of clothing after dipping the numbers
in ink. It is primarily used for denim textiles because of their dark shade and the ink's ability
to make the numbers clearly visible.
This approach is more favoured in general because:
• Permanent numbering: Stickers on clothing that slide off could confuse seamstresses,
reducing quality and efficiency.
• No sticker stains are left on the garment, saving time spent having to remove and re-paste
the label.

2. Labeling-
•Layer numbering is another numbering procedure that happens after a marker has been
removed.
• It is the procedure of applying stickers to garment components for the purposes of tracking
and identification. Each piece of clothing in this procedure is identified by the serial number
of the cut layer. The stickers with these serial numbers are adhered to the fabric-cut panels.
This technique, which is manual, is used on textiles other than denim.
BUNDLING
 Now, ties are used to club and bundle the checked pieces in one design and size.
The quantity of the bundle is determined by the needs of the manufacturing facility.
Only items of the same type and size will be included in each bundle. When
requested, the cutting department provides the production department with the
quantity needed.
 The majority of sewing rooms employ the bundling method, which involves the
controlled transfer of small quantities of garments from one workstation to another.
Operators must be able to recognize each pile in order to prepare the cut job.
 If a marker is used, its purpose will be to serve as a plot point for the style number,
size, and component identification. In the absence of markers, a top-ply labelling
method is necessary.
 NOTE: The pieces are bundled together after being sliced in accordance with the cut
number (cut number denotes an entire style of fabric that has been spread and cut).
The bundles are later stored on racks before being moved to the area for numbering.

RE-CUTTING:
 Any defects found during panel inspection that cannot be sent to the cutting section
are brought to the re-cutting section.
 After receiving cut panels with defects, the workers bring end bits from the end-bit
section in accordance with the style number, shade, and other characteristics of the
defective panel.
PRODUCTION SYSTEM:
 The workflow-directing components of a garment production system include
personnel, machinery, materials handling, and production procedures. It is a method
that illustrates how a manufacturing system converts a two-dimensional fabric into a
three-dimensional garment.
 Every system for producing clothes requires an appropriate management philosophy,
methods for handling materials, a plant layout for distributing clothes, and worker
training. For example, the clothing industry could use just one production system or a
combination of different systems for a single product style to meet their particular
production requirements. The coordination of different production activities is ensured
by production system design. Although there isn't one production system that all
organizations use, there are a number of various kinds that do, as will be discussed
in the section below.

The following are the goals of garment manufacturing systems:

1. Consider the characteristics of various methods for producing clothing.

2. Evaluate and contrast the various manufacturing methods
3. Evaluate and compare the benefits and drawbacks of using various 
4. Production methods under different conditions
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT:
It takes about 40 to 55 days to create 150 to 200 garments for the new style on the
production floor during pilot production, which is the first form of production.
They send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting section after getting all of
these details, and they also send a request to the accessory stores for all of the accessories
needed for the specific style before beginning production for the new style.
The production floor performs batch-setting for the floor before beginning the actual
production, which involves training the operators for the new style that must be made in bulk.
This training session will last for a maximum of 3 to 4 days.
Following the batch setting process, the production for the following day begins with a
smaller commitment, such as 50 pieces for the entire day, and then the production gradually
increases from 50 - 100 - 150 and so on. This will force the operators to learn the processes
that must be carried out for the specific style slowly and precisely.
After the pieces have been put together, there will be a line check where the measurements
and shade matching are verified and sent. There are two different kinds of checking that take
place during the creation of clothing: • In-process checking.
 Checking the endline. Both the AQL audit and standard testing are present here.
There are three distinct steps to the garment-making process, and each stage includes
checking.
Each operator on the production floor receives a bundle of similar pieces, usually between
15 and 20, and completes the task before passing it on to the next operator to perform the
next operation. This is how the material is moved through the production floor using the
bundle system.
Each bundle will comprise same component of different garments. The materials are
typically moved in a zig-zag pattern within the workers in the batch or line. As stated, the
garment is checked three times in the line, sometimes more, depending on the buyer and
the number of components it contains. The checking person will be present where the
garment is partly completed.
The supervisor is a key player on the factory floor.
He or she oversees the complete batch that has been delegated to them and is responsible
for carrying out the following duties:
1. They must explain to the operators the correct stitching technique.
2. Provide assistance to the operators when they are having trouble conducting an operation
and instruct them on the best and simplest way to complete the task.
3. Verify that each operator in the group or line is occupied with the tasks assigned to them.
4. The boss must get the operator's material and instruct them to work if they have no
material to work on.
5. If the operators are not working at their peak ability, complain to the production
supervisors.
6. it’s important to keep the management and operators in appropriate communication.
7. Should be able to answer the manager's questions regarding the degree of expertise of
each operator.
8. The supervisor must determine who would be a better match to fill the position when an
operator goes on leave.
9. If required, the supervisor will occasionally sit and carry out the action.
10. The supervisor must maintain good relations with all of the operators by being
approachable to them and making sure that no one ever causes problems for the factory.
The production supervisors assist the planning department in planning or allocating a
specific line for the style by informing them of the line's capacity and the operators' skill
levels.