FASHION PRODUCTION AND QUALITY

ASSURANCE​
​

Assignment II​
​JAYSHREE TEXTILES - SHIRT
SUBMITTED BY​​
Ankita Patnaik​
Kabita Shivakoti​
Nandini Shukla​
Payal Parida​
Shradhanjali Borah​
Vaidehi Gupta
Department of Fashion Management Studies National Institute of Fashion​​
Technology (Ministry of Textiles, Gov. of India)​​
INTRODUCTION
Jayshree Textiles is a leading textile manufacturer in India known for producing
high-quality fabrics. The company has a rigorous quality checking process in place
to ensure that their products meet the required standards. Here are some of the
quality checking processes used by Jayshree Textiles:
1. Raw material inspection: Inspecting the raw materials used to make the
fabric, this includes checking the quality and consistency of the fibers, yarns,
and other materials used in the production process.
2. Fabric inspection: Once the fabric has been produced, it is inspected for
defects such as holes, tears, stains, or uneven coloring. The fabric is also
checked for the required weight, width, and texture.
3. Laboratory testing: Jayshree Textiles uses laboratory testing to ensure that
their fabrics meet the required standards for strength, colorfastness,
shrinkage, and other properties. The company has state-of-the-art testing
facilities that are equipped with the latest equipment and technology.
4. Quality control checks: Throughout the production process, Jayshree
Textiles performs regular quality control checks to ensure that the fabric
meets the required standards. These checks may include visual inspections,
mechanical testing, and other quality control measures.
5. Final inspection: Before the fabric is shipped to customers, a final inspection
is performed to ensure that it meets the required quality standards. This
includes checking the fabric for any defects or inconsistencies and verifying
that it meets the customer’s specifications. By implementing these quality
checking processes, Jayshree Textiles is able to ensure that their products are
of high quality and meet the expectations of their customers.
 Inspection and quality control is the procedure to check for any faults before the fabrics are shipped out.
Inspection is the process of checking the lengths of fabrics visually or with the help of an inspection table. Quality
control can be done by the help of various physical as well as chemical tests that can help in determining whether
the quality of the fabrics have met the required standards.

INSPECTION Feed: Woven linen fabrics

& QUALITY Delivery: Faultless woven linen fabrics

Machines used: Inspection cum rolling machines - 5 (True Shape Model: Classic)
CONTROL Significance of inspection and quality control:
• Inspection of the fabrics helps in preventing overlooking of the errors that may have been left out.
• Quality control can be a great help in meeting the required standards that is needed.
PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC FROM TESTING LAB
TO FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE
Fabric samples
are recorded in
the lab register
book Sl.o, quality,
customer, etc.

Fabric Flexa Folding and

Process compacta/ Lab-Testing delivery to
house Zero-zero warehouse

O
K
Shrinkage, tear, tensile, A
seam slippage, Y
NOT OKAY
washing, light, rubbing
fastness are checked.
 MACHINES USED FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
Inspection machine
All fabrics are inspected on an inspection
machine or frame equipped with variable
speed motor as well as meter for measuring
roll lengths. Frame is tilted so that fabric
passes at an angle between 45° to 60° off
horizontal. During inspection, the inspector
must be able to stand at an appropriate
distance from inspection frame to ensure
best possible visibility of fabric shading
and defects.​
Tension meter
This machine is used to measure the
tension in the fabric. The fabric is clamped
onto the machine, and the tension is
measured using a gauge. The tension in the
fabric can affect the way it drapes, and
therefore, it is important to ensure that it
is consistent throughout the fabric.​​
GSM cutter
This machine is used to measure
the weight of the fabric.
The machine cuts out a specific
area of the fabric, and the cut piece
is weighed to determine the GSM
(grams per square meter) of the
fabric. This helps to ensure that the
fabric meets the required weight
specifications.​
 MACHINES USED FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
Color matching cabinet
This machine is used to compare
the color of the fabric to a standard color.
The fabric is placed in the cabinet,
which has a light source that simulates
natural daylight. The operator can then
compare the fabric to a standard color under
consistent lighting conditions. This helps to
ensure that the fabric meets the
required color specifications.​​
​
Crock meter Pilling tester
This machine is used to test This machine is used to test the pilling
the colorfastness of the fabric. The fabric resistance of the fabric. The fabric is
is rubbed against a standard color to see rubbed against a standardized
if the color transfers or fades. This helps abrasive surface to simulate wear
to ensure that the fabric and tear, and the amount of pilling
meets the required colorfastness specific is measured. This helps to ensure that
ations.​​ the fabric meets the required pilling
resistance specifications.​
 MACHINES USED FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
Tearing strength tester​​
Tearing Strength Tester is a consistent
tool useful to determine the tearing
strength of fabrics, plastic films, and
similar materials. Tearing Strength Tester
is the tensile force required to rupture a
pre-slit sample under controlled test
conditions.
Weather o meter
The Weather-O-Meters are used to carry out
durability test of Paints, Plastics, Fabrics etc.
This is an internationally accepted
equipment for evaluating weather resistance
of different types of materials. It is a self-
contained precision equipment used in
Laboratories for determining the effects of
weathering.
Accu-shrink scale
Shrinkage Scale is a template with two sets
of benchmarks to determine dimensional
change in the fabrics after it is washed and
dried. This is an internationally accepted
equipment for evaluating shrinkage
of different types of materials.
 INSPECTION SYSTEM
AMERICAN 4-POINT INSPECTION SYSTEM

The 4-point system, also called American

Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point grading system
for determination of fabric quality, is widely used by
producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department
of Defence in the United States and is endorsed by the
AAMA as well as ASQC (American Society for Quality
Control). This system is applicable mainly for
knitted fabrics and also used for woven fabrics. Penalty
points are assigned for each defect according to the length
of defects in the fabric inspected.​

There are three labs pertaining to the quality control job:​

a. Physical lab​
b. Chemical lab​
c. Testing lab
SPECIFICATION
SHEET OF
THE SHIRT
FABRIC
QUALITY CHECKING AT DIFFERENT STAGES
 FABRIC
TESTING PROTOCOLS
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

FABRIC WIDTH:​
Width of each roll is measured at least three times; at the beginning,
middle and end of the roll. In case, there is variation in width at any of
these points, then width is observed after every 10 meters.​

GSM:​
-Measured according to ASTM D 3776 standard method in the factory
laboratory.​
-Three samples from left, middle and right side of each fabric are taken to
measure the average GSM.​

CONDITIONS FOR REJECTION OF SHIPMENT:​

-Off-shade fabric.​
-Fabric of short width or excessive width variation.​
-Fabric with crease marks.​
-Hand feel not to standard.​
-Uneven dyeing or streaky appearance that is non-characteristic to
the fabric.
 SHADE EVALUATION

SHADE MATCHING AND GROUPING​

•All shade matching and sorting are done under standard light UV lights. The
approved reference sample is the standard for shade continuity checking. ​
• In case of piece dyed materials for shade checking retail, the first batch
is matched with the standard swatch, the subsequent batches are matched with
the first approved batch to maintain close consistency.
•Also the shade bands of every batch are kept in processing laboratory for
future references. ​
•Shade continuity cards are prepared and sent to the selected customers as
per requirement.​

SHADE CONTINUITY​
Shade continuity within each roll is evaluated by assessing the shade variation
between:​
•Side to center variation (CSV)​
•Roll to roll
 PROCESS DETAILS

•Finished fabric is collected from zero-zero machine and sent

to fabric testing lab with lot movement card, containing
quality, shade, customer, NS No., Job card No., etc. ​

•Record fabric samples in the lab register book with date, time,
Sl. No., quality, shade No., customer, NS. No. ​

•Fabric conditioning is done at a certain temperature for no. of hours

required. Then fabric tests are performed according to requirements.​

•If test results are 'OK', fabric is sent to folding section with quality
officer authorized signed fabric testing card and if any of the test
results are 'NOT OK', the fabrics are sent back for reproducing to the
finishing department of the fabric process house.​

•No lab tests are done for less than 50 meters fabric. For reprocessed ZERO-ZERO MACHINE
fabric fastness (light, washing, rubbing) tests are not done.
 QUALITY
PARAMETERS OF A
SHIRT
 HIGH QUALITY COLLAR
A quality collar will be cut perfectly
symmetrical, with straight and clean
stitching along the edges. Bending
the collar, it should feel flexible and
resilient. It should not feel like
paper or board that can be creased.
The collar should naturally curve in
a circle when buttoned and not be
prone to hold some unnatural shape.
SPLIT YOKE REMOVABLE COLLAR STAYS
A true split yoke will have the If the shirt has a dressy style
two pieces of fabric cut at an business collar, then it will almost
angle or “on the bias”, giving it a always require collar stays (little
sharper look and better pieces of metal or plastic that are
flexibility. inserted into the points of the collar)
– they keep the collar points
pointing straight and looking sharp.
PREMIUM COTTON FABRIC
The quality of the fabric is very,
very important to the quality of the
shirt. But ultimately how the fabric
looks, feels and performs is
ultimately what really matters. If the
dress shirt’s fabric is at all rough
to the touch, wrinkles particularly
easily, or shrinks a large amount
with normal washing then you likely
have a poor quality fabric.
MOTHER OF PEARL
BUTTONS (NACRE)
High quality Mother of Pearl
buttons are generally favored for
their depth of color and shine.
They are also very resilient to
degradation caused by cleaners
and heat.
CLEANLY FINISHED BUTTON
HOLES
If there are loose threads around
the button hole, or any sign of
fraying, this is the sign of a low
quality shirt. Premium quality dress
shirts will have more stitches on the
button hole and very clean openings
with no sign of fraying.
 HAND SEWN CUFFS
Hand cuffs should be hand sewn and
it will show the most in the
pointedness of the corners and the
straightness of the stitching.
PATTERN MATCHING CLEAN, TIGHT STITCHING
A high quality shirt should have A high quality dress shirt should
perfect pattern matching at the have at least 18 stitches per inch
center back of the split yoke, as well around the cuffs and collars. Shirt
as along the front of the shirt and at should be perfectly sewn at all the
the pocket. The stripes on one side curves.
of a collar should be identical in
elevation to the stripes on
the opposite side of the collar. the
pattern at the end of the yoke should
match perfectly with the pattern at
the top of the sleeves.
SINGLE NEEDLE SIDE SEAM
STITCHING
A good quality shirt should have
single needle side seam stitching
along the sides of the shirt and
bottom of the sleeves. This will
produce an incredibly tight seam
that is very narrow and elegant.
TIGHTLY SEWN BUTTONS
The buttons should be firmly
attached to the shirt without too
much looseness. Ideally the
stitching should go in a criss-
cross “X” shape which makes for
a stronger button attachment.
SMALL BUTTON AT SLEEVE
PLACKET
A high quality dress shirt will
feature an extra button in the center
of this placket that prevents this part
of the sleeve from gaping open.
 SPARE BUTTONS
Typically, a shirt comes with a spare
set of buttons sewn at the bottom of
the shirt or at the tag of the side
seam, in case a button gets broken
REINFORCED SIDE SEAM
GUSSETS
This extra piece of fabric will
prevent the shirt from ripping at
the seam that can be caused by
aggressive tucking/untucking. It
also adds just a bit of minimal,
practical design to the shirt.
 Zone Defects

• A garment is divided into zones to evaluate visual defects during

quality audit.
• A garment can have three zones - A, B, and C.
• Apparel buyers, provide garment figures with marking zones in
their quality manual along with a list of defects that fall under
major or minor categories.
• A defect that is minor if it falls in zone B may be major if it is in
zone A. This extra piece of fabric will
 Zone A – the visual area of the garment is considered as a major prevent the shirt from ripping at te
area and of critical importance. seam that can be caused by
 Zone B - the visual area of the garment is considered as a minor aggressive tucking/untucking. It
also adds just a bit of minimal,
area of importance and is not critical. practical design to the shirt.
 POINTS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF
•Fabric will be inspected only on the side designated as the
face by the mill. ​
•Fabric will be inspected for spinning or weaving or
processing defects and stains, holes, etc., and are graded
according to the quality to grade A and B.​
•No more than four points can be assigned to any 1m of
fabric. All defects must be flagged at the selvedge such that
the flag can be detected from either the back or face of the
fabric during spreading and points are documented.​
•The maximum no. of 4 points allowed per 100 linear
meters: 4​
•No. of holes allowed per 100 linear meters: 3 Average points
per lot per 100 linear meters: 25​​
​
•Any holes will be penalized four points.​​
​
•One type of defect resulting in single point allowed: 15 per
100 linear meters​​
​
•A repeating defect of 2 meters and above should not be
allowed; otherwise the roll should be rejected.​​
​
•Minimum roll length: 20 meters​​
​
 QUALITY ASSURANCE
• The material inputs for the Jayshree Textiles linen shirt is from internationally
distinguished vendors.
• But the fiery determination of Jayshree Textiles to dress the discerning customer
with a matchless blend of sophistication and substance ensures that every JST
shirt reaches the shelves only after being subjected to very oppressive tests on
every parameter.
• It is washed frequently every day for many days, stretched with considerable
force, rubbed on rough surfaces and immersed for long in hot water. These, in
addition to the conventional wide-ranging tests are conducted at labs of high
credentials with ultra-modern facilities and top-line quality auditors. All, so that
the shirt is full of value in every inch.
• The quality of the JST linen shirt is certified by the CELC (The European
Confederation of Flax and Hemp).Jayshree Textiles is also ISO 9001 certified
which a quality management standard that sets out requirements for a company's
quality management system, including its processes for design, production, and
customer service.
• It is recommended that the Linen shirt can be washed or dry cleaned. The linen
shirt can be washed using machine. It is recommended to tumble dry on heat.
 CONCLUSION

• To sum it up, Quality assurance and quality control is a

complex area of the apparel industry.
• First off, quality assurance is not quality control, but
quality control is an aspect of quality assurance.
• Quality assurance builds quality into each step of the
manufacturing process including designing, production,
and beyond. Quality control is generally understood as
assessing for quality after products have already been
manufactured and sorted into acceptable and unacceptable
categories.
• Apparel garments, accessories, and other textile products
are assessed for quality in the preproduction phase, during
production, and with a final inspection after the product
has been completed.
 REFERENCES

 Seph. (2023, April 28). High Quality Dress Shirts. Proper Cloth Help.
https://propercloth.com/reference/high-quality-dress-shirt/
 How to implement quality control for clothing. Intrepid Sourcing & Services. (2022, June
14). https://intrepidsourcing.com/trade-wiki/how-to-implement-quality-control-for-clothing/
 One of the Best Textile Company in India. Jayashree Textiles. (2023, March 30).
https://www.jayashree-grasim.com/
THANK YOU
 SOME OTHER DEFECTS
1. Chira 1. Patta​
2. Hole 2. Missing end​
3. Chaapa 3. Unbleach warp yarn​
4. Late off 4. Wrong denting​
5. Broken pick 5.High twist/low twist​
6. Selvedge cut 6.Tail end​
7. Double pick 7. Four ply/ three ply​
8. Loose weft 8. Stitch/float ​
9. Loose warp 9. Undyed warp​
10. Design cut 10. Dirty/ rusty/ oily yarn​
11. Shade variation 11.Guccha​
12. Weft cut 12. Temple mark​
13. Warp lines 13.Jhiri​
14. Tight end 14. Reed mark​
15. Contamination 15. Clipping ​
16. Wrong warp pattern 16. Weft wise patta​
17. Wrong drawing 17. Starting/ patti mark​
18. Knots 18. Oil stain​
19. Undyed weft 19. Unbleach weft yarn​
20. Slubs 20.Parts impression
21. Double end