DYES - NATURAL and SYNTHETIC

Lec No 14, Unit 2

 What are Dyes?

A natural or synthetic substance used to add

colourto any material including textile, cosmetic products, food
products etc .
In textiles, they are incorporated into the fiber by chemical reaction,
absorption or dispersion.
Dye is generally applied in an aqueous
solution and may require a mordant to improve the fastness
of the dye on the fiber.
 INTRODUCTION
 Dyes are colored organic compounds that are used to impart color to
various substrates, including paper, leather, fur, hair, drugs,
cosmetics, waxes, greases, plastics and textile materials.
 A Dye is a colored compound, normally used in solution, which is
capable of being fixed to a fabric.
 CHROMOPHORE

 It is a Greek word.
Chroma = “color” & phoros = “bearer”

Defined as any isolated covalently bonded group

that shows a characteristic absorption of
Electromagnetic radiation in the UV or visible
region.

 Compound containing chromophore is CHROMOGEN

Eg: C=C, C=O, NO2
 TYPES OF CHROMOPHORES
1. INDEPENDENT CHROMOPHORES

If one chromophore is required to impart colour Eg: Azo

group –N=N-, Nitroso group –NO-

2. DEPENDENT CHROMOPHORES

If more than one chromophore is required to impart colour Eg:

Acetone having one ketone group is colorless whereas

diacetyl having two ketone groups is yellow.
 SIMPLE CHROMOPHORIC GROUPS

Groups λmax
C–C 1350

C=C 1900

C=O 1900
2800
O–H 1850

NO2 2800

C6H5( PHENYL) 1950

2500
 Auxochrome

A saturated/ unsaturated group with non bonding

electrons when attached to chromophore altering both
wavelength as well as intensity of absorption.

Eg: OH, NH2, NHR, COOH, CN, Cl etc..

 Two types:

1) Basic/positive auxochromic groups

Effective in acid solutions

Eg: OH, OR, NHR etc.

2) Acidic/negative auxochromic groups

Effective in alkaline solutions

Eg: NO, CO, CN etc.

 CHANGES IN POSITION & INTENSITY OF
ABSORPTION
For isolated chromophore groups such as –C=C- absorption
takes place at far UV which cannot be easily studied but
the position & intensity can be modified:

hypsochromic
hyperchromic
λ max
absorbanc

bathochromic
e

hypochromic

200 wavelength 800

 BATHOCHROMIC SHIFT/ RED
SHIFT

•wavelength
Shift of absorption maximum towards longer

•(auxochromes)
Due to presence of groups like OH, NH etc.
2

Eg: ethylene shows absorption at 170nm whereas

1,3-butadiene shows at 217nm.
 HYPSOCHROMIC SHIFT / BLUE SHIFT

•Shift of absorption maximum towards shorter

wavelength

•May be caused by removal of conjugation

Eg: In Aniline, absorption takes place at 280nm.

In acidic solutions, absorption takes place at
200nm
 HYPERCHROMIC
SHIFT
Increase in intensity of absorption

By introduction of ‘auxochrome’

Eg: introduction of methyl group in position 2 of

pyridine increases intensity of absorpion from
2750 to 3560
HYPOCHROMIC SHIFT

 Decrease in intensity of absorption

Eg: introduction of methyl group in position 2 of

biphenyl group causes hypochromic effect because
of distortion
EVOLUTION OF DYES:-
The preparation and application of dyestuffs is one
of the oldest forms of human activities.

There is also mention of it in the Bible and other

works of classical antiquity. It was in 2600 BC when
earliest written records of the use of dyestuffs
were found in China.

The first synthetic dye, picric acid, was prepared

in the year 1771 from the natural pigment, indigo.

First humanmade organic dye that was discovered

by William Henry Perkin in the year 1856.
William Perkin an 18 years old student was working on
chemical synthesis of natural products. In a classic case of
serendipity, the young William Perkin chanced upon his
now famous 'Aniline Mauve' dye while he
was attempting to synthesize quinine, the only cure for
malaria. Perkin named his colour Mauveine, after the
French name of nonfast
colour which was made of natural dyes. So "Mauve" (a
basic dye) was the first synthetic dye stuff. Mauve was a
derivative of coal tar. It was the first mass produced dye,
that was commercially available and the idea was born that
a colour could be made in the factory. It was indeed a
revolution.
Properties of good dye:-

Dyes must possess the following four properties:

 1. Colour
 2. Solubility in water
 3. Ability to be absorbed and retained by fibre
(substantivity) or to be
chemically combined with it (reactivity).
 4. Ability to withstand washing,
dry cleaning and exposure to light.
 CLASSIFICATION
 There are several ways for classification of dyes.
 Each class of dye has a very unique chemistry,
structure and particular way of bonding. While
some dyes can react chemically with the substrates
forming strong bonds in the process, others can be
held by physical forces. Some of the prominent
ways of classification are:
 Classification based on the source of materials

 classification of the Dyes- Based on the nature of

their respective chromophores.
 Classification by methods of application.
CLASSIFICATION BASED ON THE SOURCE OF MATERIALS

 A very common classification of the dyestuff is based

on the source from which it is made. Accordingly the
classification could be:
 Natural Dyes

 Synthetic Dyes
 NATURAL DYE

 Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived

from plants, invertebrates, or minerals.
 The majority of natural dyes are
vegetable dyes from plant sources. E.g. roots,
berries, bark, leaves, and wood.
 Other organic sources
include fungi and lichens.
 N
a

ut
Wool Fabric Silk Fabric

a
Flax Fabric
Hemp
F
l
a

b
Cotton Fabric
Linen Fabric
 SYNTHETIC DYES

 Almost all the colors that you see today are Synthetic dyes.
Synthetic dyes are used everywhere in everything from clothes to
paper, from food to wood. This is because they are cheaper to
produce, brighter, more color-fast, and easy to apply to fabric.
 E.g. Acid Dyes, Azo Dyes, Basic Dyes, Mordant Dyes, etc

Azo dye testing

CLASSIFICATION BASED ON THE CHROMOPHORE PRESENT

 Dyes may be classified according to the type of

chromophores present in their structures.
1. Nitro and Nitroso Dyes

2. Azo Dyes

3. Triarylmethane Dyes

4. Anthraquinone Dyes

5. Indigo dyes
Natural Dyes
 What are Natural Dyes?

Natural dyes are dyes or colorants

derived from plants, invertebrates,
or minerals. The majority of
natural dyes are vegetable dyes
from plant sources from
berries, barks, leaves and roots,
organic sources such as fungi
and lichens. other
 Origin of Natural Dyes

It is known since ancient times.

 Written record of the use was found in

China dated 2600BC

Chemical tests of red fabrics found in

the tomb of King Tutankhamun in
Egypt show the presence of alizarin.
 Conti..…
 The remains of robes of Alexander the great dating back to 541BC
shows the purple colour which was made from a mollusk and
clothing made from it was so expensive that only the royal families
could afford it.

In 1856, William Henry Perkin, discovered the first synthetic dye
stuff which he called "Mauve". The color quickly became a
favorite of the royal family, and a new industry was begun.
 Advantages of Natural Dyes

Eco-friendly Clothes dyed with natural dyes

Unique yield higher profits to the

dyers and manufacturers
Free from carcinogenic
components Variety of shades produced

 Used as antioxidants Used in cosmetics

 Disadvantages of Natural Dyes

More expensive than Time consuming dyeing

synthetic dyes process

Colour fades quickly Reproducibility of

Difficult to produce shades is difficult

Requires vast areas of land Bright colours cannot

while production be produced

Preparation of
Natural Dyes
Collect plant materials when they are
at their peak of color.
Dry them in shade
Chop all plant materials into
small pieces
Take requisite amount of material and
water depending upon the dye source
and boil maintaining the MLR
Boil the mixture at least for an hour
Strain the material and set
the dye bath aside.
Classification of
Natural Dyes
Classification
Based on
Source
Plant source:- There are as
many
as 500 plant species identified as
sources for dyes.
 Derived from various parts of the
tree (flower, bark, seeds, leaves and
roots).
These vegetable sources are not only
replaceable but also bio-degradable.
Also have pharmaceutical and health
benefit.
 Common Dyes Stuff Obtained from Plants
Plant parts Dyestuffs

Root Turmeric, Madder (Manjistha), Beet-root

Bark/ Branches Purple bark, Sappan wood, Khair, Red, Sandalwood
Leaf Indigo, Henna, Tea, Cardamon, Coral, Lemon Grass
Flowers (Petals) Marigold, Dahlia, Tesu, Kusum
Fruits/Seeds Pomegranate rind, Latkan, Beetle nut, Myrobolan (Harda)
Mineral source:- Used for fixing or
improving the fastness of vegetable dye.

Covers natural resources including

minerals which give coloring matter.
Eg:- cow urine, cow dung, egg albumin.

Ocher dye obtained from an impure

earthy ore of iron, usually red (hematite)
or yellow (limonite).
Animal source:- Secretion
of insects and dried insect
bodies are the major source of
natural dyes.

Eg:- Shell-fish provides the

coloring matter.
 Commonly
Used Natural
Dyes
 Turmeri
 Common Name: Turmeric c
 Botanical Name: Curcuma Longa
 Turmeric has been used in Asia for thousands
of years.
 It is commonly known term for Indian Saffron.
 First use as a dye, and then later as a
medicinal plant.
 It is a perennial herbaceous plant that reaches up to
1 m tall.
 Dye extract from roots.
 It produces yellow to orange colour depending
upon the mordant used.
 Indigo
Common Name: Indigo
Botanical Name: Indigofera tinctoria
 This is the most ancient Natural Dyes used by Man
in textiles.
 Indigo is about 2-3 feet long plant, cultivated on
thousands of acres of land in India.
 The whole plant is used for extraction of dye
and the extract form of dye is supplied in powder
or pieces form.
 This give deep blue color.
 This is the only Natural Dye, which falls under Vat
category of dyes
 Madder
 Common Name: Madder, Manjistha, Majith

 Botanical Name: Rubia cardifolia(Indian

Madder) Rubia tinctoria (European
Madder)
 Madder is one of the oldest Natural Dyes.
 Alizarin is main chemical compound that
helps in produces the red colour
 Cultivation of Madder needs sub topical climates
and prefers moist soil.
 It is cultivated in the foots of Himalayas in huge
quantity.
 Ratanjot
 Common Name: Ratanjot
 Botanical Name: Alkanna tinctoria
 Traditionally used for colouring in textiles
which
is imported from Afghanistan.
 The purple-brown roots, twisted roots are
covered in a papery bark from which the dye is
extracted.
 Dark red, purple and browns colours
are obtained.
 Ratanjot is light-sensitive.
 Colours are intensified and moves
 Arjun Tree
 Common Name: Arjuna Tree
 Botanical Name: Terminalia arjuna
 The arjuna is about 20–25 metres tall,usually
has a buttressed trunk.
 It has oblong, conical leaves which are green on the
top. It is highly medicinal plant.
 It has pale yellow flowers which appear
between March and June.
 Its fibrous woody fruit, divided into five
wings,
appears between September and November.
 Different shades light to dark brown, coca-cola, and
brownish black are obtained.
 DISADVANTAGE OF SYNTHETIC DYES:-
 synthetic dyes have harmful effects on the environment and
human beings.
 First off ,synthetic dyes are made up of chemical compounds that
can be harmful to humans, especially those who work in their
production.
 Some of the chemicals found in synthetic dyes are mercury, lead,
chromium,copper, sodium chloride, toluene, and benzene. Exposure
to large doses of these substances can be toxic and can have severe
effects in the human body.
 Water pollution can also result from manufacturing
synthetic dyes when untreated dye effluent is
dumped directly on bodies of water.
 Conclusion
 Presently an approximately 1 % share of textiles is only being dyed with
natural dyes mostly in the cottage sector by traditional artisans, enthusiasts,
and small entrepreneurs.
 Establishment of proper characterization and certification protocols for
natural dyes would definitely improve consumer confidence in natural dyed
textiles and would benefit both producers and users.
 This advantage can be utilized by the traditional artisans in preserving their
surroundings from the ill effects of pollution caused by synthetic dyes and
they do not have access to expensive effluent treatment plants needed for
synthetic dyes.
 Now, the natural dyes are not substitutes of synthetic dyes. They have their
own market and expansion in the market is not going to be at the cost of
synthetic dyes.
 Alan Mortensen(2006) Carotenoids and other pigments as natural colorants IUPAC, Pure and Applied
Chemistry 78:1477–1491.
 Anjali Arora, M L Gulrajani and Deepti Gupta (2009) J Natural product radiance8:142-145.
 Anonymous
 Anonymous Advantages of Natural dyes
http://www.cleantick.com/users/vinaytakbhanu/pages/natural-dyes-for-textiles/updates/8283
 Anonymous Introduction of Natural dyes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye
 Anonymous Disadvantages of natural dyeshttp://www.keycolour.net/blog/advantages-disadvantages-
natural-dyes/
 Anonymous Mordants http://woolery.com/dyeing/mordants-surfactant-soda.html
 Anonymous Natural dyes http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/use_natural_dyes.html.
 Ashis kumar samanta and Priti Agarwal(2009) Application of natural dyes on textiles J Fiber Tex
Res34:384-399.
 Redwan Jihad (2014)Dyeing of Silk Using Natural Dyes Extracted From Local Plants Journal of
Scientific & Engineering Research5:11.