W

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tff

Irnprove your sci-fi nrodels!

A Galaxy Far Away

o H

This book shows modelers

how to assemble seven kits based on subjects from the Star Wars@ movies. Features excellent, step-by-step photos

I, o o f, Oll

(!

illustrating a variety of modeling techniques. lncludes a profile of Mike Fulmer-special-effects

modeler for Lucasfilms.

12225 o $21.95 Available May 2002

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How to Use an Airbrush

Learn how to achieve special airbrushing effects on a variety of plastic models. Eleven projects
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00 more

Final Frontier
Build extraordinary Star Trek! spacecraft models with this comprehensive project book, then Iearn how to light, mask, paint, detail, decal, and display your model

Building and Painting Model Dinosaurs

Features a unique collection of dinosaur modeling projects for all

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inishes, camouf lage, weathering,

levels. lncludes user-f riendly how-to projects, tips and techniques for creating real stic skin, textures and coloring, and unique dlorama settings, plus instructions on work ng with putties and other fillers

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BEST

OF

0uestlons&Answers
Solutions to help you build better models
Editoriol Coordinotors: Poul Boyer ond Mork Hembree FineScole Modeler Editor: Terry Thompson FineScole Modeler Monoging Editor: Dick McNolly Contributing Editors: Lowrence Honsen ond Elizobeth Lomb Art Coordinotor: Michoel Solidoy Artist: Kellie Joeger Production Coordinotor: Cindy Border Cover photo by Jim Forbes
@2002, Kalmbach Pubtishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Published by Kalmbach Publishing Co.,21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 7612, Waukesha, WI 53187-161,2. Printed in U.S.A.

rrnrnl-finescale.corn

Best of

Q&A 3

at 30 psi. Also, what kind of regulators

and connectors will

Cleqn or not?
When a model requires several thin
coats of the same color just a few minutes

need?

-nd Airbrush odvontoges

What
are

Wills

apart, should

the advantages of airbrushes

over spray cans?

Paul Stefanski

Although the airbrush may seem like a tool for experts, it is easy to use once you get used to it. The advantages far outshine those ofspray cans.

A 20-pound tank can spray 10 - 20 brush after each coat, or is it enough to modcls at 10 to 15 psi. A single-stage spray fresh thinner and back-flush the regulator works fine. The reguiator lets airbrush, then clean it completely after you adjust line pressure to the airbrush. A the painting session? two-stage regulator has the advantage of - Chuck Martin a tank pressure gauge. (A single-stage
setup wont warn you -"vhen you're run-

I thoroughly

clean the air-

ning low.) Take your airbrush hose coupling to a weil-stocked hardware

store; they should be able to match connectors for you.

First, you have morc control.

cans always go ful1 blast

Spray

brush you can control the volume of

paint, air pressure (with a regulator), and the area of coverage. Say you just need to
spray a nose cone.

but with an air-

Bosic oirbrush set

I want to get into painting with an airbrush and air compressor. What do you
recommend?

may have

With a spray can you to mask off the rest of the

You won't have to ciean befween coats same color, but back-flushing the paint into the reservoir is a good idea (for single-action airbrushes only). The paint may separate between applications and need to be "stirred" - open the nozzle halfivay and place your fingertip on the nozzle.Instcad of blowing out, air blows back into the paint nozzle andbubbles up into the cup or bottle and stirs the paint.

of the

model to prevent overspray from ruining your paint job. If you're careful with an airbrush, you'll only have to mask off the forward end of the fuselage. Another advantage is that you can use almost any brand or color of paint, including colors you mix yourself (perhaps unavailable

- Dattid

Quigley
a

You should blow lacquer thinner

through the brush between colors during a paint session, then break the airbrush down and clean it after the session.

Ifyou have no prior experience, try single-action external-mlx airbrush and

January 2001 and March 2002 issues

simple diaphragm compressor. Check the

of
"air"

CO2 with wqter trop?

Do I need to attach a water trap to my airbrush rig if I use aCO2cylinder as my

FSNI for more airbrush and compressor

information.

in a spray can).Just thin the bottled paint and spray it, but take time to determine the proper thinning ratios. Airbrushed paint reaches the surface almost dry,

Sproying chunks
brush, but there's one problem I havent solved. I'11 be spraying along when suddenly I'11 get little spots of another color marring what would othenvise be a nice

source?

_ Eric Zak

I'm still getting used to my Badger air-

which helps prevent paint

from seeping beneath masking tape.

No, because CO2 in a cylinder is liquefied and anhydrous (without water). The gas cools as you release it from the
cylinder, but because there is no water or water vapor in the cylinder, no droplets will form in your airbrush line.

Airbrush problems
My airbrush is anything but precise, and I am experiencing obvious overspray.
Is the tip bent? Is the nozzle broken?

paint job. What's wrong with my airbrush?

-Tin

Fischer

- MattJar
Here's a troubleshooting list: ' Have you cleaned the airbrush regularly? 'Is the tip of the needle bent? Remove the needle from the airbrush and lightly drag it across your fingertip. Rotate thc needle and do it again. You'll be able to feel a little "hook" on one side ifthe need1e is bent. You can straighten it bylighdy dragging the tip over fine sandpaper until the "hook'is gone. 'Is the opening inthe nozzle perfect1y round or is it lopsided? Is it cracked? 'Are you thinning the paint properly?

doesn't sound like the problem is with the airbrush. What you're getting is little chunks of dried paint from a previ-

It

Covering dork with light

What's the best way to keep the color of the plastic from showing through
lighter

ous painting session. They're loosened from the inside of the needle housing or the paint siphon by fresh paint. Simply

Paints?

- Michaer scheel

blowing thinner through the airbrush after every color sometimes isnt enough
to thoroughly clean it. IfI'm spraying one color after another in a single sitting, I'11 take the airbrush apart and clean it after
every three colors.

Start by spraying a light- or mediurngray primer. Usually one coat will do it. The primer covers the dark plastic and has the added advantage of making it easier to spot flaws in construction. Once the

primer is dry, paint over it with your final color coats.

' Is this fresh paint? Old paint can

the air-

separate and clump, clogging brush.

apart and inspect the inside. If there is hard, crusty buildup, soak the parts (tips up) in a small jar of lacquer thinner for an hour. Clean the rear portion of the tip

Take the needle housing (the tip)

causes flat finishes, such as Testor Dul1cote, to turn my model finish-

Frosty flot sproy

What

es frosrY

white?

with a cotton swab and pipe cleaner

soaked in lacquer thinner. The front por-

Rabert Martinez

Air first
I'm interested in a CO2 tank for airbrushing. I priced one about the size ofa fire extinguisher and wondered how long such a container can sustain airbrushing

tion should be cleaned carefully with a thin pipe cleaner. Also clean out the
siphon in the paint jar or cup. Nowyou're ready to reassembie the airbrush and move on to the next color.

There are two probable causes. First, make sure you stir bottled Dullcote completely to mix the flattening agent (which settles to the bottom of the bottle) with the vehicle. If you're using a spray can,

EineScale Modeler's

Best of Q&A.

shake it vigorously bcfore spraying. Ifyou get too much flattening agent, it will ruin the finish.

Point yellow, then

opply liquid mosking

Peel owoy mosk exceol trom rrno

The other

cause

is trapped water

"

/i4

z'.."

vapor. This happens most often on humid days. The compressed air (from a spray

can or compressor) cools as it is released. This condenses water vapor in the air, which mlres with the paint droplets and
settles on the model to create an opales-

painting on humid days. If you must

to limit thc amount of moisture trapped.

cent appearance. Try

to avoid spray
Sorov entire bomb Jliu" drob

spray on humid days, build up light coats

Mosking smoll circles

I'm trying to paint a 1.5rnm-wide circular outline of a helicopter landing pad on a ship. Masking tape will not produce an even outline, and a fine brush in a
steady hand does not appear to be the answer' what do y"" ruggj'';;
artr sarhs

'

METHOD 2

Bomb pointed

olive drob

The best way to mask a circle is to use

frisket paper, sometimes called frisket film. This is a thin, paper-backed, selfadhesive material uscd by artists to mask

airbrush illustrations. Look for

suppiy stores.

it at art-

You can use a draftsman's compass with a cutting blade in placc of the penci1. First, cut the mask for thc outside of the circle. Then cut another circle 1.5mm smaller in radius. Apply the frisket outlinc on the part to bc paintcd, then place thc smaller circle lvithin that mask, making sure it's centcred. When you're satisfied with the position of the masks,

Pointinq bombs withouf decols

Is there an easy way to paint bombs? should I use decal tttt'"*-

Paint the entire bomb olive drab, then remove the masking agent from thc yellow ring. Although not
as precise, method ftvo is easier: Paint the entire bomb olive drab and 1et it dry. Open a bottle of yellow paint (wel1 stirred) and dip the bomb into the paint far enough to create the rear edge of

burnish their edges with your fingernail.

*r,

,aniekan

Now yor-irc ready to paint, preferably with an airbrush. If you hand brush, take care to kecp the paint from creeping
under the frisket.

Thc problem with painting rings on bomb noses is masking a sharp line on a
compound curved surface (one that
curves

Mosking wheels
I've been using an artist's template to cut masks for wheels, but this doesnt
alrvays work wel1, especially with small whecls. Is there a better way to mask and

Masking with tape or applying solidcolor decal film doesn't work well because you're trying to apply a flat material to the cun'ed surface. Above are a couple of methods that should work. First, paint the front end of the bomb gloss yellow and allow it to dry. Apply a liquid masking agent over the yellow and iet it dry. Next, carefu1ly chuck the bomb in a variable-speed electric drill. (Don't turn the chuck too tight or you'll crush

in

more than one direction).

the ring. Allow the yellow paint to dry thoroughly, then dip the nosc tip in olive
drab paint. lVhen dipping, bc sure to hold the bomb as close as possible to vertical to produce an even ring. When you remove

paint wheels?

Shishin K. Phanselkar

the bomb, excess paint will flow douni to the tip and, if left therc, dry into an ugly blob. Before it dries, touch a cotton swab to the tip to blot away cxcess paint.

Instead of using a circle templatc to cut masks, use the template as a mask. Paint the tire black or dark gray and let it dry. Now prepare the rvheel paint for airbrushing. Find the circle on thc template that is closest to the corrcct diametcr and

Mixing point
What's the best way to mix paint and
thinners for airbrushing?

the plastic.) With the drill operating at

low speed, bring the edge of a sharp modeling knife or a razor blade to the front and rear edges of the area to remain ye1low; cutting through the masking agent. Peel away the masking agent at the nose tip and from behind the yeilow ring.

- Dan Heath
You can use plastic 35mm film canisters for mlring paint. For measuring, use an eyedropper and record the amounts of paint and thinner used. If a certain com-

hold the whecl bchind thc template. Spray through the templatc; you may
ha."'e

to cover adjacent holes in the tem-

plate.

bination is too thick or too thin you can

r,rnrmr-finescale.com
Best of

Q&A 5

avoid rcpeating the mistake. For custom colors, record amounts

of

this ruins the paintjob. Is therc a product available in Puerto Rico that r'vould solve
my problem?

Conopy mosking
How can

get better results masking

each color used. For exampie, you might use ten eyedroppersful of F'loquil primer

and painting canopies?

and add frve drops of reefcr yelbw to come up with light gull gr.ry If it's too

Fernando Del Toro

- Brinn
Adhesive-backed

Clayton

yclbw, add two rnore eyedroppersful of

the primer.
e

If you're mi-xing a ner,v colot, always use thc same brands of paint to
nsure compatibility and consistent

Your problem is not with the airbrush, compressor, pirir-rt, or thinner, but with the constant humidity in Plrerto Rico. Air

foil

(such as Barc-

under compression heats up; ns your

humid Puerto Ricirn air cools on its way

rcsults.

When thc color is right, thin nvo parts paint to onc part thinncr. This is just a starting point; experimcnt to find thc right ratios. Then transfer t1're paint into
an airbrush pirint cup or bottle.

Kecping leftover thinned paint is risky; putting it back in a paint bottle

somctimes contaminates thc remirining

paint and shortens its life. If you liaven't made enough paint, iust refcr to 1'our
notes and r,vhip up

ner'v batch.

How do I kccp dust lrorn settling

my models
as

Stotic cling
I paint thcm?
-

from thc cornpressor to the airbrush, wrlter vapor condenses on the inside of the air hose. The fr>rcc of the air pushes the finc water droplets into the airbrush, and they spurt ollt with the paint. The solution is a dcvice callcd a rvater trilp or moisrr-tre trap. It is inscrted in the irir line much likc thc ftrel fi1tcr of a car. In a hr"rmid atmosphcrc, it's bcst to install the rvatcr trap as fir dorvn the line from the compressor irs possible. 1\4ost airbrush rnanufaclurers bavc \\'i1ter traps in tl.reir catalogs; irlso, a-.k thc dealcr who sold you the airbrush.

Metal Foil) is thin and works well. Aftcr masking I spray the interior color of the canopy frame on the outside and follor.v rvith the exterior frame color. This is casier than trying to paint the canopy inside and out. Rcmove adhesive residue with
alcohol on a cotton swab. Or 1'ou could paint canopy framing on clear decal sheet, using the same order of color to get interior and exterior frame

colors. Apply slightly oversized decal strips, iet them dry in place, then trim them r.vith a sharp knife. Lift the small trimmings ar,vay with a bit of Scotch tape;

if you mess up, lift the mistake r.vith tape and try it again. One more tip: Dont forget to mask the inside of thc canopy to block overspra)'.

or.t

Horolrl Williants

Conopy p.osking troubles Conopy cleoner

\Vhat's thc bcst \v.lv t() rctnovc print from r clear plastic cilnop\I so I can
rcPaint

To cut dorvn on static, tryrvashing the modcl r.vith soap).watcr rnlxed -"vith alcohol bcfore yru paint it. A dry climate also can contribute to yollr problem; trl'painting on days r.vhcn the relativc humidity is 40-70 percent. When it'.s n-rorc humid you run the risk of the paint "blushing" (condensation underneath thc print creating a frosty look).

it?

I use Parafilm "M" to mask frames on aircraft canopies, then paint the interior color of the frame, followcd by the extcrior color. Ilorvever, when I remove the mask it lear.es jagged cdges. What am I
doing wrong?

- Kotit
l*.

Michoels

Greg Williams

Sproying. without on 'oiibrush

'

can't afford an airbrush. Is thcrc is a I crn use with spray c'.tns to gct feathered edges)

method

After painting, lightly score the cdges of the mask r.vith a sharp blade. This will separate the paint on the frames from the mask. A1so, dont wait too long to remove the masks; take them off as soon as you can. Thc trick is to find a place to grip the freshly painted canopy while you work.
Hor,v can I make a new canopy for an aircraft model r.vithout a vacuum-forming
machine?

Robet.t

Milrer

Conopy replocements

Since spral' cans produce a r'vidc spray pattern, r'otill need to cover portions of

the model with a mask. Nlasking tape, artist's frisket film, ner'vspaper with tape
at thc edges, and manl'other means can bc r.rsed. To gct that featl.rcrcd edge, burnish the tape dor'vn on the color Painting over thc framcs rvould bc thc easiest fur. But if 1'r>u need to m:rkc a cleirn sweep, you should be able to remove the paint and polis1-r the plastic rvith Nol'us 2 or Barc-I4etal Foil plastic polish. Clear plastic is brittlc, so fill the canopl' -"vith modeling clay to reinforce it as 1'ou po1ish. Put a dab of polish on a clear-r cloth and rub the canop]'until the paint is r,vorn

- Dennis Brennan

You could make a new canopy by stretch-forming heated (therefore softened) clear plastic.

demarcation linc, then lifi the edgc slightly This allows a little ovcrspray onto
thc line. Of coursc, this mcthod 1'ras limits - itt impractical on small models rvith

PtrTG

(available from

multicoiored camouflage over

surfaces.

une\ren

That's rvhere

'.rn

airbrush comes

in handy.

off. This m'.ry takc sever:rl applications,

and certainly some time, but it pays ofT. Rub with a clean cloth to rernovc all the

N{y airbrush
6

Woter problems
spra).s sma1l r'vater
Q.\{

plastic suppliers) is the clearest and most distortion-free. Mount the canopy form on a stick. Heat the clear sheet over a kitchen stove burner, then thrust the form into the heated sheet. You need at least three hands for this, so recruit a pxrtner to hold the hot sheet (with oven mitts). It may take a few attempts, but you'l1 get

dried polish, then dip the canopy in

Future floor polish for thc ultirnatc sl'rine.

your canop)'.

droplets after a fcr,v minutes of use, and

fineScale Modeler's
Be.r ot

Repoiring cleqr plostic qqmoge

have a car window

with a blemish

Vocuum-formed conoPy cutting I like to buy aftermarket vacuumformed canopies. What's the best way to cut them out without crumpling them?

caused by plastic cement. Is there any way

to eliminate it and still keep the canopy

clear?

Ro.rauro Ona

Thomas Lore

line of the part. Slide a hobby knife under the other side and ro11 the knife so the blade forces that side up. Keep pushing until the part is bent to the desired angle. This requires practice, but is certainly easier than doing it without tools.
hate bulkheads. I struggle to get the proper internal contours of aircraft, ships and other complex shapes. Is there an easy way to do this?

Bulkheod contours

Sand the blemished area with wct 400-grit sandpaper, moving the sandpaper in litt1e circies. It may take a while, but you should be able to smooth out the
flaw. Repeat this with wet 600-grit sandpa-

Use a smal1 scissors, such as for trim-

GeoffGroube
a

per, sanding

in tiny circles and pressing

toothpaste

Look in any hardware store for

tour gauge,
a

con-

hard at first, then gradualiy easing up. Then use plastic polish, rubbing com-

pound,

or

(not the

ming cuticles (the little curved

ones).

gel

Rough-cut them from the sheet, thcn use a coarse sanding stick to fine-rune the edges to fit the model. Test fit often and adjust with further sanding.

group of fine wires held in a brace. You press the ends of the wires against the shape you need to duplicate and the wires slide in the brace. Trace thc outline from the gauge onto the material you're using to make the

Antenno ottochments
What's the best way to attach fine stretched sprue or nylon monofiiament
on aircraft?

S. Brez.in

You can use super glue or white glue.

Mount a horizontal strand first, from the fin to the antenna mast. Now glue one end of the short vertical strand to the fuselage and cut it long enough to intersect the horizontal antenna.

Trim the excess from the vertical section. Using a toothpick, place a dab of

qpe) to polish the area smooth.

Keep

glue where you want it on the horizontal antenna, then move the vertical piece over until it touches the glue.

polishing (it takes a while) until the flaw is invisible. Finish with a coat of Future acrylic floor polish applied with a soft
brush.

Bross ports
Is there a correct way to bend photoetched-brass and stainless-steel detail parts that require shaping or folding?

Another way is to press solder or some other soft wire into the cavity. Solder will hold any bend you put into it. Lay the
solder on the bulkhead material, trace the

outline with a pencil, then cut it out.

How do I tint the rear portion of my

Tinting blue

Rich Sarbacher

Fobric-covered oircroft
How
can

I simulate the fabric covering

A-1tr Slq'raider

canopy.blue? - Paul Kopczynski

on the control surfaces of many biplanes

and World War II aircraft? I want these areas to have a texture different from the metal-covered parts.

To color the canopy yet leave it clear, use clear blue paint. To avoid fogging the
canopy, airbrush water-based clear tint such as Tamiya (X23) or Gunze Sangyo (H93), available at hobby shops. The trick with tints is to apply several light coats to get evcn coveragc without runs. Then follow with a wet coat, and everything will smooth out and become clear.

craft and

Coy Johnson

Pin one side of the part down on the

It takes practice.

work surface with a metal sftaightedge, with the edge right on the recessed fold

Fabric-covered surfaces on early airWWII airplanes are just as smooth as metal surfaces. A fine, strong linen was impregnated with a pigmented dope which caused the fabric to shrink tight over the internal structure. However, these areas should look a litrprrnrv-Errescale-com
Best of

Q&{

tle different. Try tinting the paint slightly or giving these areas slightly more gloss or flat clear overcoat to suggest a different

after sanding it still looks bad. How can beat this problem?

material without producing an out-ofscale texture.

Rabert E. Thomason Jr.

Decking it out I model deck planking for 1/350 scale shiPs?

How can

Plop each fuselage half onto 400-grit sandpaper and lightly sand away alignment pins. (Take carc to not erase smal1 dctails such as antenna mounts at the

parts together and apply a drop of cement to the.joint. Let the cement run down thc seam, then gently squeeze the parts togethcr. Repeat the process until the entire seam is cemented, then rvrap rr,rbber bands around the parts and wait a few

hours for the molten plastic to sct. If applied properll', the joints shouid last as

Bab Morris

The sanding smooths imperfections along the mating surfaccs. Now dry-fit the halves and note any
edgcs.)

iong as the plastic.

Gluing resin ports

Can resin parts be attached with epory adhesive insterd of super Slur?
_

mismatches. Sometimes you can glue one side first, let it dr1', then cajole the other side into place as 1'ou glue it. Hold thc halves together with rubber bands as the glue sets. Make sure you dont compromise thg

Krn Ri*

fit of wings, nose cones, or canopies. Again, dry-fit cverything before gluing
the parts.

Depict cracks between planks by graz-

Geor doors closed

a series of aircraft with thc gear up. But most kits havc gear doors that don't really fit in the closed position.

I prefer super giue because it well as bonds. Epoxy also can fill gaps, but it's rubbery and doesn't sand rvell. Two-part epory is a little better in this respect, but doesnt bond as r'vell as sr-rper glue. With either adhesive, wash and lightly sand the bonding surfaces for
Yes, but

fills gaps

as

ing the raised surfacc plank detail with

the side ofa soft lead pencil (see photo). Although it looks shiny after it is applied, it will look just right after a coat of clear flat such as Testor Dullcote, which also seals the pcncil on the paint.

I want to build

best results.

How can I

fr-r this?

- Bi// Prentis
The best way is to scratchbuild them from sheet styrene. Draw the shape you need on paper, cut it out, then trausfcr that shape to the styrene. It may take a
few tries, but the doors r,vill look better.

adhesive bond bassrvood to styrcne?

Wlrat. thc bcst

Gluing wood to sfyrene wan.ett

to llsc

to

l(iel

Filling seoms
What's the best method for mating
parts without any seam lines?
-

to

The best adhesive for bonding wood styrene is cyanoacrylate (super glue).

The thicker, gel-typc versions tend to stay

Joio Anononue'uo

where you put thcrn more easily than

thinner, runnier super glue . An accelerator sets the bond more quickly.

Filling seams is one of the fundamental skills a good modeler must master. Lightly sand all the mating surfaces and try to get the parts to {it well before gluing. Hold the parts together and apply
liqr-rid cement to the seam line with a brush. The liquid runs along the seam, softening the plastic. When the parts are
pressed together, they chemically bond. After allowing the glue to set for a day, sand the scams with a mcdium-grit sanding stick and inspect them. Fill gaps or pits with gap-filling super glue, set it with super-glue accelerator, thcn sand immediately.

I built a collection of 7/72 scale aircraft so long ago that the glue on thcm has become brittle and the models are falling apart. What can I do to prevent
this from happening to a ne\'v collection? - l4I Ross Loflin

The glue for you

[ens replocement
I've misplaced the clear plastic ler-rses for a set of Nlavcrick missiles. Without buying another kit, how can I replacc
them?

Ifyou'rc careful, you

lenses

Corey Ransont

It

sounds as though you used tubc glue can build up new

on your original collection. Tirbe glue is a plastic solvent with a polymer addcd to

Gap-filling super glue is easy to sand right aftcr it sets - if you wait more than
an houq the glue

will become too hard. It can be sanded and polished until it's as smooth as plastic.

thicken it and slorv evaporation. Beginners tend to use too much glue, bridging gaps with it and generally making a mess. If the parts are not making contact, the glue has no chance to weld the parts togcther. When the solvent dries, only the hardened polymer is left. After a while, thc polymer bccomes britput under strcss - not unusual whcn
they'rc or,vned by young modelers.

with 5-n-rinute epory. After mlring a gob of glLle, transfer the epory to thc nose of the missile. Hoid the missile upside dor,vn so the glue forms into a hemisphere as it sets. Epory dries ncar11' clear, so it should look just abor"rt right.

[iquid-glue dispenser
I'm having trouble finding the right
applicator for liquid glues such as Teua-r or Weld-On. I don't like brushcs because the glue rllns oLlt too tast. Bottles -'vith needle applicators either clog up or saturate thc model rvith *Iu"

tle and flakes of{ espccially if the model is

Fuseloge fits
I'm an intermediate modeler but still
often have a hard time getting seams to fit properly. I get "steps" on fuselage
halvcs, r.vhere one side sits highcr than the

No.'v that you're older,

cements

try

liquid

other.

I've tried running a big bead of putty

or super glue down the seam, but

8
fineScale lVlodeler's
Bestof Q&A.

even

solvents that mclt the plastic. As you prcss the parts togetheS the molten plastic of each part mkes together to form a welded bond. Apply liquid cements with a brush, a hypodermic needle, or an applicator bottle. Hold the

- Dooi, Morob*

An old paintbrush (sizc 0) should do it. You can reduce the irmount on thc brush by touching the iip of thc bottle

and letting some of thc glue run back in.

Merely touching the brush to the

seam

will let glue florv in without

light sanding.

further brushing. Residue can be removed with

What kind of tape works best for masking? I have a lot of trouble with
masking and transparent tape.

Mosking moteriol

Handling photoetched parts can be triclqr Buy a good set of rweezers to handle the parts. They can be painted with enamels or acrylics, but adhesion is sometimes a problem. Wash the parts with lacqucr thinner to remove oils and chemicals that may interfere with paint. Photoetched parts can be attached with supcr glue or cpoxy, but somc modelers use a dab of Future floor polish or other
fypes ofclear coats.

super glue or epoly to attach resin parts. Since a mold-release agent is used in resin

casting, wash parts

with

soapy water

before gluing or painting.

Priming resin parts will reveal pinholes or other surface imperfections. Fill pinholes with super glue. You should be

able

to

use lacquer, enamel, or water-

based acrylics for priming and color coats. If an area of resin repels paint, there may

-Julia Crauford
Remove the tape as soon as possible.

still be rnold-release agent on

it

(or the

resin may have been improperly mlred).

Masking and transparent tape bccome more difficult to rcmovc with time, pulling up underlying paint or leaving
adhesive residue. Try drafting tape, avail-

choppcrs exhibit a distinct droop that I have been unable to induce in kit blades with hot water. Ho.!v can I get them to
droop?

Rotor blode droop At rcst, main rotor blades on real

Try sanding the surface s1ight1y, and spray paint or primer in light, dry coats.

able at art-supply stores. It's similar to masking tape, but the adhesive is lcss sticly.

-J.F

Roche

III

Mending fobric
I
have an old biplane kit

recently acquired a built-up Aurora King Kong, and I would likc to disassemble it and repaint and rebuild it. Some of the small parts come off easilli but many of thc larger parts are glued on solid. Is there some way to dissolve the glue and
start over?

Restoring vintoge kits

with ejector-

pin marks smack in the middle of fabric details on the wings. How can I erase
these marks and make the work blend in? - Bruce Ross

Stezte Grassi

joint with a sharp blade until thc joint gives way. Assuming the original
gluc buiider used tube glue, the bond probably isn't strong. I dont knor'v of any chemical that will dissolve the hardened polymer used in tube glue, but once you gct the pieces apart you may find the cxccss glue will flake olTor that you can cut and sand

recommend scoring around each

Your frustration r'vitl-r the marks

understtrndable. Horvcver,

is

the fabric
too.

wing dctail is probablf inaccurate,

Fabric-covered arcas of aircraft are just as smooth as thc mctal. Only the characteristic tightening over the ribs gives t1-re fabric alvay. So the area should not be
textured.

it off
,;

ejector-pir.r marks r'vith your favorite fille1 and sand them smooth.
Sand awal.the "fabric" detail, too.

Fill

Sonding it smooth
each
be

You can make rotor blades droop by

sirnpll'bending them. Dont hold

I have a kit with raised rivets that look way too big. What's the best way to remove and smooth these inaccurate

Oleo struts
How do you depict chromed oleo portions on the landing

end and borv it, though

disastrousl Apply stress along the length

that could

details?

Brett Rhei,

fr \t$tl,runrUrr,

of the rotor, starting near the hub and rvorking outward every t/t" or so (see photo). Avoid the outer quarter of the
blade, and make just a littlc bend in each spot. You can always go back and give it more. If you do break one, repair it with liquid glue. After you have repaircd the rotor, you'll have to avoid bending near the break.

You can get rid of the rivets with 400-

grit

sandpaper, followed

by

There are rwo ways: one is to replace the plastic oleo section with a piece of
stainless-steel tubing. The easier way is to glue a piece of aluminum foil to the section and trim away the excess. usc Bare-Metal Foil because it already has an

sandpaper. Prime the model

with

600-grit a light

gray paint
marks.

If

to check for hear'y sanding there are any, sand and prime

again. After you've fixed them you're

ready to paint.

adhesivc on

it.

burnish the foil down

'w.ith a cotton swab stick. The eflect is most noticeable if the remainder of the strut is painted flat aluminum, whitc, or
any dark color.

Resin ports
I've never worked with resin conversion parts or kits. Do they requirc special glue or paints? Should I prime the parts?

What material do you use for ship railings? I'm having trouble finding
s

Ship roilings

omething thin enough

] ;:; r:;l;;

r,.,

Phofoetched philosophies
I'm just getting back into the hobby
and am not surc horv to handle, paint, and attach photoetched parts. Do you
ha-"e any

DickJones

What we call resin parts are made from one of several polyrrethane resins that are impervious to solvent cements
such as tube glue or liquid cement such as

There are many aiternatives, including aftermarket photoetchcd sets, but if you want to make them yourself try HO scale detailing wire and clear stretched sprue.
You also can use clear stretched sprue for mast rigging.
Best of

pointers?
Richartr Kohli

Tenax or Weld-On. You need either

Q&A 9

the kit railing without damaging

parts?

I want to replace the railings on a Revell USS Arizona. How do I remove

the

Ship-roili4g removol ond replocement

brands. Clear sprue can givc the bcst results if you're looking for ultra-thin stock. Be careful not to ignite the sprue; styrene fumes are toxic and you'll get iittle black ashes floating all over the room. Stretched sprue can be attached with
r.vhite glue, super g1ue, or epory.

slowly into seams, and you can control it by tilting the model to 1et graviq' pull the glr-re where you need it.

Once you've fi1led the gap or

seam,
a

apply super-glue accelerator. Use the bot-

tlc's sprayer, an old brush, or

-Jim Andersan
To remove the railings, score along the bottom edge with a sharp hobby knife.
Repeated passes with the blade will evennrally weaken the plastic so you can easily bend thcm off. You also can replacc them

Dont

use

plastic cements; they'1l dissolve the thin,

fragile plastic.

with an aftermarket photoetched

brass

railing kit from Gold Medal Models.

have tried using stretched sprue to simulate vchicle antennas, but the picces always seem to sag or bend. What can I use to "straighten out" my problcm?

Sprue sog

- Stephen Hilliard

Microbrush to apply a few drops. The glue will set in seconds; inspect thc scam to see ifyou need morc. Slightly overfill thc scam before sanding. Sand the glue after it's set but before it cures completcly - it's much tougher to sand later. IJse various grits of sandpaper or sanding fiIes to smooth the fi1led area. You'll find super glue is faster and looks better as a filler.

Stretched sprue
I've read a lot about using stretched sprue for rigging and antenna wires, but
have no idea how
a quick course?

I'11 assume

you mcan rvhip antennas,

Super glue technique

small parts such as nose probes with supcr g1ue. It's not sticly enough to hold the part in place, and it doesnt give you much of a chancc to position parts before it sets. I tried using tube glue to position the part, follorved by super glue, but that's not as strong a bond as super glue alone.

it is made. How about - Mark Pfahl

which are anchored at only one end. Stretched sprue is fragilc and it kinks easily, but this is offset by its cost - it comes
free in every injection-molded kit. If you break or bend stretched sprue, just snip it off and replace it. Or you can entirely avoid the hassle b1'using spring steel or stainless-steel rvire. An ideal source is old guitar strings. The high tr string is thc fincst gauge, good for small
scales.

I'm having difficulty attaching

Stretching sprue is sometimes considered an advanced technique, but it is quite

simplc. Every injection-molded attachcd to runncrs or

kit

has sDrues.

Bradley Jones

have trouble using super eluc cfficiently. The tips clog and thc caps get gummy and dont fit. I tried thin applica-

Super glue etiquette

tor tips and they clog, too. Horv can I

clean this mess up?

-Jones R. Statmton

First, wipe excess from the tip every timc you use the glue. The cap rvill fit if the tip stays clean.
Instead of struggling with a frner tip,

put a drop or two ofglue on a scrap surface and use a toothpick to applv it from

Light a candle and cut a segmcnt of

straight sprue (4"-6" long). Hoid the center of the segment about 1" over the flame and ro11 the sprue benveen your fingers so thc flame heats it cvcnly. Continue until the sprue turns glossy and soft, remove it from the flame, and pull the ends apart. The quicker you pul1, the thinner the diameter of the stretched sprue, but if you pull too fast, the sprue

thcre. Apply a little accelerator rvith an old brush. Aftcrwards, throw ar,vay the toothpick and cap the bottle. Refrigerate super glue to make it last longer.

Rcst the model so you don't have to it in your hand - you're going to need both hands to do the following. Put a little gap-filling super glue on the base of the nosc probe (to use your example). Hold the probe in one hand, then dip a Microbrush into super-glue accelerator (both are availablc in hobby shops). R>sition thc probe, check it, then

hold

quickly touch the Microbrush

in
a second

to

the

joint. The accelerator will flow from the little ball of fiber onto the super glue and
set

making my models look seamless. I find body putry difficult to use. Is there anything better?

Super glue, not putty

always have trouble fi11ing gaps and

aside onds,

or two. Then set the model although super glue sets in secit takes an hour or so to fully curc.

Super-glue trouble
I build injection-molded
and vacuum-

will

break.

Steven T, Lineban

Pulling slowly produces thick sections

that can be used for boarding ladders and other stmclures. A quick, steady pu1l can give you nearly 3' of thin, constant-diamctcr stock for antcnna and rigging wires. Some styrene stretches better than
Body putties arc easy to sand, but their tendcncy to shrink is annoying. They also may pit and are not as smooth as the surrounding plastic or metal. Instead, use gap-fil1ing super glue and an accelerator. The syrupy glue flows

formed plastic kits with super glue, but some of the seams open later. Does using an accelerator make a difference? What am I doing wrong)

-J. Patron ens joints. However, super glue

havent found that accelerator weakis

others, so experiment
1O ElneScale lYlodeler's

with

different

susceptible to contamination. It's impor-

Best

oiQ&A

areas to be glued are free from mold-release agents and fingerprint oils. Wash the parts thoroughly and lightly sand the joints before gluing.

tant that the

uid plastic cement. Put the inner

and

Worped fuseloge
How
lage

Super glues have great tensile strength but weak shear; in other words, it's di{n-

outer rims together, then brush on the glue and let it flow between the parts. Wait a day before mounting the tires. You also can use super glue - but do so carefully or you'll reaily get attached to your
hobby!

halves?

can

I straighten out warped fuse-

Tert

staidler

Soak the picces in hot water, then gen-

cult to part a joint with perpendicular force, but force parallel to the joint may break the bond. Reinforcing vacuumformed fuselage joints with internal strips of styrene reinforces a joint by adding surface area to take advantage ofthe tensile strength.

tly straighten them. Another rvay is to

Tire technique

mean?

What does the term "weighted tires"

Boris Bozic

Super-glue ugly
I like using
avoid
super glue but dislike hav-

Some kits provide tires with a flat side and bulges to look as iftheyie under a load. Some modelers get this effect with a hot

ing to repaint the white crud left on my models by the curing glue. How can I

knife; other rnodelers think the effect

is

this?

Bruce Beamish

overdone. Ho',vever, done correcth this can make thc model look more realistic and sometimes helps the model sit properly.

You might find thick, slow-curing

super glues produce less "crud," or chioro-

Trimming tubing
I'vc scen hypodermic needles or stainless-steel rubing used for pitot tubes and

glue them in stages. For example, let's say the fuselage halves are fine at the front end but diverge at the other end, causing a 1" gap at the tail. First, glue the forward fuselage and 1et it set for at least a day. Make sure it is a strong joint (you may want to reinforce it with a bead of gapfilling super glue if you can gct to the inside of the fuselage). Repeat the procedure for the tail section, forcing the halves together. Wrap rubber bands, pipe cleaners, or strong tape around the rear fuselage after the glue has been applied and let it set for 24 hours. This can work for warped wings as

well.

sis, a precipitate

of cured super gluc. A

coat ofFuture floor polish retards the formation of chlorosis on clear parts.

To keep the precipitate from settling

on your model, position a fan to blow past

gun barrels on models. I've tried to use thern, but I can't find a way to cut the tubes without crimping the ends. How
can

I get nicc,

clean, round cnds?

have a 1967 Plymonth GTX with a slightly twisted body which makes the back and the front uneven. Hou. can I fi-x
this?

Worped outo body

your work area. Fine-grit sandpaper or polishing compound can remove this
deposit from your model.

-John Bozuery

-Joe Camarda

If you have

a motor too1, use an abra-

I want to try thermoforming a small canopy, pushing a reinforced kit canopy into the heated sheet. Is clear sfyrene the best material for this? - Brent Fardham
You want to look for PETG (polyethylene terephalate glycol copolymer, also known as copolyester or Vivac). Check

Thermoforming plostic

it by twisting the tubing

ning cutoffrvheel.

sive cutoff rvheel to cut the tubing. The end will probably be a little rough; clean

Soak the body in hot water for a few minutes, then twist it gcntly beyond

while lightly

pressing the rough edge against the spin-

straight in the other direction. Then set it on a flat surface and hold it straight until
the plastic cools.

Make sure you wear safety

glasses

cutoff wheels can fly apartl Finish with 600-grit sandpaper. If you don't have a motor tool, score

with

plastic supplier and see if they have scraps of.020" around. Ifyou need a lot you can get it in 4'x 8' sheets, too.
a

The problem is chrome I'm having trouble getting the dual

tandem wheels on my L/25 scale Ertl and

the tubing with the edge of a fine-tooth file and bend thc tubing toward the scored notch. The tubing rvill break with oniy a little crimping. Clean the end by inserting the tip of a sharp No. 11 hobby-knife blade in the opening and twisting. Final
cleanup can be done with sandpaper.

wing halve s together, the wing warpcd into a had case of anhedral. *_rff)til;Ir::

Worped wings built a vacuum-formed model of a World War I aircraft and ran into a serious problem - after gluing the

recently

AMT trucks to stick together. I use tubetype plastic cement. Is the glue the
probiem?

Vocuum-formed cut-up I want to try my hand at a vacuumformed plastic model. Thc guys at the hobby shop say to cut out the parts with a scissors, but the plastic looks too thick
for that. Should I use a jigsaw?

The cause of your problem may be too much glue. Split the wing open and reattach it with a little liquid cement. If it appears that this rvould ruin the wing, makc several cuts in the underside

of the wing and glue in small strips of

plastic. These wedges force the wing into

Skip

Arnold

the proper shape.

Assuming your problem is getting the outer wheel rims to stick to the inner wheel rims, first make sure you scrape away the chrome plating on the surfaces
to be glued. Plastic cements cannot penetrate this plating and a bond is never
achieved.

FredJape

It's hard to predict how many cuts you'll need to make - just add a few at a
time until you overcome the warping.
Cover the cuts and strips with filler putty and sand them smooth. You also could immerse the wing in

No, the best way is to score along the edge of each part with a sharp knife at about a 45-degree angle. Then you can
snap the plastic along the scored line.

Tube-type plastic cements may not be giving you a strong enough bond; use liq-

Next, sand away excess plastic. After that, glue parts as you would with an injection-molded kit.

hot water and reshape it. After you correct the shape, tape the wing to a flat
surface and let

it

coo1.

w.finescale-com

BestofQ&{ 11

Wet sonding
Could you explain wet sanding? I tried

wetting sandpaper and it was

S onny

a real messl A ugus tin adino c e n tuis

coat from a can. It scems the clear coat reacted with the decais and they crinkled badlv. What went wrong? - Darcy Abbott you apply a healy coat ofclear. Solvents in the spray can dissoive decal inks and carrier

Apply thc second decal as you did the first. Let it dry, then overcoat the decal
sandwich.

That can happen, espccially

if

Disintegrofing decols
I ve had problems with decals disintegrating when they come off the paper.

What am I doing wrong? How can I prevent this?

{ilm as well as paint and plastic. Apply light coats of spray and don't let the
model get "wet" with clear paint.

caused by

Ton! Partlor,u

First of all, you can't use just any sandpaper to wet sand. Ask for "wet-or-dry'' sandpaper at the hardware store. This is a special sandpaper that can be wet with

Monogram 1/48 scale "Big Beautiful Doll" P-51 Mustang with the checkered nose. I tore most of the decals! What am

Domoge control NIy first modcl rvas the

Disintegrating decals afe usually

insufficient clcar carrier applied

Rcvell/

doing wrong?

to thc papcr under the color inks. Other causes are aging and temperature and humidiry extremes. This clear, somewhat flexible coat holds the decal together without it, the inks just float off in tiny
particles. You can fi-x the decals you have. Apply a new clear coat to the decals by brushing

water and not come apart. \ryet-or-dry

sandpaper is available in many brands and grits and is usually dark gray. Use 220-, 320-,400- and 600- grit papers for mod-

-Jim Holtz
Big decals are difficult. Thc larger the
the more it drags on the surface of the model as you try to position it. If you keep the undcrside of thc decal rvet it will slide more easily, so flood the area with
deca1,

on Microscale Liquid Decal Film, or

spraying on a coat of clear enamel or lacquer - I prefer Floquil Crystal-Cotc. It's difficult to teli which decal sheets will fracrurc, so test by cutting an unimportant decal from the sheet and dipping it in water. If it fractures, appiy the clear coat to the cntire sheet. You'll have to
away the cxcess clear film from each decal, but you'll save a few dollars on the dccals and pcrhaps markings that can't be replaced.

eling. The higher the number, the finer the grit. The advantage of wet sanding is that
water keeps the grit from clogging. With cleaner grit, the sandpaper works faster. Sand at a utility sink, occasionally passing the sandpaper through a stream ofwater from the faucet. Pass the model under the stream to wash away the slurry (the muddy mlx of sanding dust and water).

water (1ots of water on the curved nose

a

of

Mustang). Do not touch the decal with your fingcrs; use a small, flat brush and tweezers to move the decal around. Once the decal is placed, drain the water from underneath by placing a cotton swab or the edge of a paper torvcl to the cdge of the decal and let thc rvater wick away. You can carefully blot or ro11 a cotton swab on top of the decal to gently
press

trim

Flot decols, shiny model

I'm building an aircraft with
a

it into

place.

natural-

I
and

Blue Angels blues

build a lot of Blue Angels models

After more experience you'Il r'vant to experiment with decal-setting solutions, which soften the decal and allolv it to
"melt" into the surface.

aiways have the same problem: No I use, the blue paint always shows through the yellow decals. What

metal finish and I don't want the decals to be shiny. Horv can I make them flat without spraying a flat clear overcoat that will spoil the metal finish?

matter what
am

doing wrong?

'Vintent Maddtrx Light-colored decals may not be opaque enough to hide the underlying color. My

I build airliner models and many of the available decals involve layering one decal over another. Should I lay the first
decal down, apply solvent, wait for it to dry, and spray on an overcoat before applying the next layer? Would it be better to put on both decals, then solvent and

Decols on decqls

-Tont

Wilson

Before applying the decals, lightly airbrush them with a flat clear. However,

is to double the decals - lay another set over the first. Yes, this means you may havc to buy two sets of aftermarket decals. But the results are worth it. Be careful not to stretch decals or they
solution won't match up. After the bottom decal dries, carcfuily position the top decal with a water-soakcd brush. When the decal is placed, biot up excess water u,ith a cotton
swab.

overcoat?

you'll have to cut out each decal to rclcase it from the sheet. Lighdy score around each image as closely as possible, then dip the image in water; the excess film will disengage as it
releascs

from the paper. Soak up

excess

Tim Malone

water to avoid ruining your metal finish

with

spots.

could knock it out of alignment. Use a decal-setting solution only after both
decals are dry.

Dont

press the decal down or you

Crinkled decols
I recently
covered a model

with

a clear

Actually, your first method is a little overkill. Apply thc first decal using only as much solvent as is necessary to get the decals to snuggle down over the detail. Wait for the decal to dry, then lay on the second layer. (If too much solvent is used, you risk stretching the decal, making it nearly impossible to line up the second layer in register - you would have to stretch the second decal in exactly the same places to get perfect rcgister.)

Missile stripes
Is there an
missiles?
easy rvay

to paint stripes on

Shang Lee

Instead of trying to paint a perfect line, cut a thin strip from solid-coior decals. Wet it, wrap it around the missile,
add a drop ofsetting solution, and let the
decal dry tight on thc missile.

12 fineScale lYlodeler's

Bcst of QcLA

I I

Removing decols
I ruined my decals and I want to replace them. How do you get decals offa model?

Yellow decqls
As time passes, many of my older kits' decal sheets are yellowing. I recently packed all ofthem in an airtight box fi1led

always get an orange-peel bumpiness in the finish. I use one part thinner with nvo parts Model Master Clear Gloss.

Gavin MacPherson

Robert Hersch

with silica gel (the stuff packed with cameras and electronic equipment to absorb moisture). Will this keep the decals from yellowing further?

First, try very sticly tape such as

Scotch (clear or frosty). Burnish it down on the decal, then rip it off It should rcmove most if not all the dccal.

If this docsnt work, try alcohol and a

cotton swab, or perhaps ammonia. Make sure you have good ventilation when using these liquids.

- Andl

Chong

One variable you didnt mention may be the trouble. If the air pressure is too high, you may be blasting the clear with enough air that it's drying too fast. Ifyou dont have a regulatoq adjust the

No, moisture is not the problem here.

Decals yellow due to the acid in the paper. Over time, the acid creates a chemical reaction within the paper and turns the paper and often the clear carrier film ye1low. To cure the problem, tape the yellowed decais into a south-facing window and let the sun bleach out the yeliow it takes a

knurled knob below the air button on

your Paasche to reduce the amount of air. Also, lightly wet sand with worn 600-grit paper after each coat (let each coat dry first) and mix the final coat at least 50-50

Silverino decols on flot iurfoces

My problem is getting decals to stick to models painted with flat paints. Even
after applying setting solution, the decals look pasted on and glossy. I dont have problems with them on gloss paints, but most of the colors I use
are {Iat.

with thinner.

Or you could finish with

Future

few weeks, but it worl<sl Make sure the

windo-"v doesnt collect moisture a bathroom windorv is a bad choice since this could wet the decal and activate the waterbased adhesive. Better yet, build those kits before the decals get old and yellowl

acrylic floor polish. I ve had great success by airbrushing it at low pressure and gradually buiiding up coats to let the Future flow evenly.

What

can

do?

Dry-brushing
I've often seen a technique called drybrushing in articles in FSM. Just what is
dry-brushing?

- H.

Smulders

Decals dont stick to flat paints because there is litde surface contact. Ifyou could see your model under a microscope, it would appear as coarse sandpaper and the decal as a sheet ofglass. The decal makes contact with the paint only at the peaks of its bumpy tex-

- Nathan Higa

Acrylic thinner
I've heard windshield wiper fluid can be used for acrylic-paint thinner. But isnt

ture, trapping air in the valleys beiow. Light reflects and refracts through the air
and decal, producing a silvery appearance in the clear fi1m areas. Gloss paints, on the other hand, have

it

poisonous?

maybe glycerin

Ken

Millard

a smooth surface and allow maximum surface contact with the decal. You can spray on a coat of clear gloss, let it dry,
apply the decals, let them dry, then overcoat

and surfactants. However, other acrylic thinners also are

Dont drink it! lt has alcohol

or other

poisonous, though less hazardous than

enamel and lacquer thinners. The safest acrylic thinner is distilled water (and it works), but you should check the paint labels to determine the manufacturer's recommended thinner.

Dry-brushing is a weathering technique to simulate worn and faded paint. After the painted model is dry, lighten

with

a clear

flat.

the base color with white and paint a small swatch on a piece of cardboard with
a soft brush. Continue to work the brush

Solvents ond solutions

What's the difference between a set-

until it's nearly dry. Next, lightly brush

this color on raised details of the modcl. To enhance the effect, scrub the brush a little harder on the model (see photo).

ting solution and a decal solvent? Is it necessary to use both? Why dont manufacturers provide both?

Blqsted bubbles! How can I prevent bubbles when I'm

painting with a brush?

Dry-brushing highlights the

raised

- R.J. Brandt
Setting solutions are acetic-acid-based formulas and usually have the word "set" on their labels. Solvent formulas are alcohol-based and usually have the word "sol"

- NanYang
Air bubbles
can form when you're shak-

details; the goal is a smooth gradation of color. If your paint is too wet, you'll only

ing the bottle before painting. This occurs

most often with water-based acrylics. Also, vigorous brushing can introduce

produce a spot of color that wont look right. If it's too dry, nothing will happen. Practice dry-brushing on an old model before working on a prizcwinncr.

in their names.
You don't necessarily need both, but
a

brushing, stir

setting solution provides a "friendlier" surface for the decal, while the solvents soften the decals as they dry so they conform more closely to the surface. One drawback is that certain formulas can destroy decals; test a spare decal from the same sheet to avoid this risk.

air bubbles. When you mix paint for it with a Popsicle stick. Brush gently in one direction, using only
one or two strokes.

Fume qvoidonce I'm reluctant to take my painting

inside during the winter because of the
fumes.

What is a good technique for airbrushing clear top coats over a completed model? I use a single-action Paasche and

Cleor coqts

What

can

do?

DelJack

First, use water-based acrylic paints; the fumes are less noxious. Second, turn
w.finescale.con
llestofQ&A 13

Humbrol point numbers

If you have built an Airfix or Heller kit recently, you've noticed that paint references comprise only numbers. Wel1, it's time to put names on the numbers. This information was taken from a color-chip chart that Humbrol made several years ago. You'll notice that there are numbers missing in the sequence, but that's the way the paint line is. So, modelers, keep this reference near your workbench- Paul Boyer
Point

down the pressure on your airbrush; you need only 10-15 psi. Ifyou see clouds of
ovcrsPray, you're wasting paint. Try to airbrush on dry days. You can spced the drying with a hair dryer. In any cvent, consider buying or building a spray

booth to pump overspray and fumes out

ofthe

house.

l{o.

Point l{ome
Emerold

Poinl

Pcint Nome

Poinl

No.
(glos)

Brunswirk green (glos) Dork od grey (glos)

Light

buff tglos) (glos)

l0 ll l2 14 15 16 l8 l9 20 2l 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 3l 32 33 34 35 38 40 4l 47 48 49 50 5l 52 53 54 55 56 60 6l 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 7l 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79

Ton

{glos)

Service brown

Silver {metollk}

(opper(metollir) henrh blue (glos) Midnight blue (glos)

Gold (metollic)

0ronge (glos) Bright red (glos) (rimson (glos) Blork (glos) White (gloss) Durk egg blue (molt)
Troiner yellow

Mo$blue
Mott khoki Motl seo grey (omoufloge grey (motl) Mofi dork eodh Moil dork green Molt dole grey Molt dork grey

80 Motl gross green 8l Moil pole yellow 82 Motl oronge lining 83 Motl orhre 84 Moil mid stone 85 (ool blork {sotin) 86 Mort lighl olive 8l Mott sleel grey 88 Mo$ detk green 89 Mott middle blue 90 Mofi beige green 9l Mott blork green 92 Moll iron grey 93 Mott desert yellow 94 Mott brown yellow 95 Molt ronrrete 96 Mott blue 97 Molt eggshell 98 Mott chorolole 99 Moff lemon 100 Mott red brown l0l Moil mid green 102 Motl Army green 103 Motl (reom '104
RAF

No. 147 Moil light grey 148 Moil rodome lon 149 Moil dork green 150 Moil fore$ green I 5i lnlerior green {moll} 153 lnsignio red (moll) 154 lnsignio yellow (moll) 55 Mott olive drob 156 Moil durk grey
I

Poinl ]lome

The term "wash" is used often in

FSM. Just exactly what is a wash?

Woshes qre for detoils

Wi// Deutolfe

157
I

58 lnterior green (motl) 159 Khoki drob (motl) 160 Ger como. red brown (molt) l6l U.5. Morine (orps green (molt) 162 Surfore grey (mott) I 63 Dork green (solin) 164 Dork seo grey (solin)
165 Seo grey medium (sotin) 166 Light rirtroft grey (sotin) 167 RAF borley grey (solin) 168 Hemp {soiin) 169 Yellow focings (molt) '170 Brown Bes (moll)

Azure blue {mott)

A wash is a highly diiuted paint used

Moil blork
Moil while

(leorpoly(glos)
lime (glos) Pole grey (glos)
lvory (glos)
Seo blue

(glos)

Meditenoneon blue (glos) Moll vornish

Green misl Sunset red

(melolli() {metollk}

Boltk blue (metollir) Gunmetol (metollir)

Bros (metollk) Bronze (melollir)

Aluminum (metollic) Scorlet (molt) Mottflesh

Moil lesther
Moll sond

Moil light grey

Mott oircroft blue Moil olive drob Molt lonk grey
Purple Yellow

(glos) (glos)

Mott brkk red

Sotin ook

Mott khoki drill Motl wine

Moil linen Moll bronze green Moll uniform green

Molt novy blue Molt rockpil green Mott blue grey

105 Molt Morine green 106 Molt oceon grey 107 MoltWWl purple 108 Molt WWI green 109 Molt WWI blue Mott nolurol wood I 0 lll Motl uniform grey I l2 Motl lormot ll3 Mollrust II4 Motl Rusion green ll5 Mott Rusion blue I 16 Mott U.S. dork green l17 Mott U.5. ligh green Molt U.5. lon I l8 II9 Mor light eorth 20 Mofi lighl green 2l Mott pole slone 122 Moil pole blue 23 Sotin dork seo grey 124 Sotin petrol blue 125 Solin U.5. dork grey 126 Sotin U.S. medium grey 127 Sotin U.5. ghost grey (light) I 28 Sotin U.5. compos grey (dork) 129 Sotin U.5. gull grey (light) 130 Solin white 3l Sotin green 132 Sotin red 33 Sotin brown 134 Solin blue 35 Sotin vornish 140 Mott gull grey {dork) l4l Lighl ses grey (motl) 142 Moil field drob 144 lnlermediole blue (motl) 145 Molt medium grey 146 Glos oirrrofi grey
I I I I I I I

Mott 0xford blue

l7l Anlique bronze (malt) 172 Green kolin) I 73 lrock colour (molt) 174 Signol red (molt) 175 Hellgrou 76 (moll) 176 Neutrol grey/ight grey {mott) 177 Hull red (moil) 178 Britishxorlo(motl) 179 French ortillery green (molt) 180 leother (motl) l8l Glosy seo blue 182 Blork grey (sotin) I 83 Grey (sotin) 184 Freight stork grey (sotin) 186 Brown (molt) 187 Sond {mott) 188 (hrome yellow (glos) 189 lnsignio blue (molt) 190 Blue Angel blue (glos) I9l (hrome silver (metollic) 192 Bloze motl (fluorevent) 193 Bloze glos (fluorescent) I 94 Solurn yellow glos (fluorescenl) 195 Dork green {sotin} I 96 light grey (solin) 197 lufthonso yellow (sotin] I 98 Lufthonso blue (solin) 200 Pink (gloss) 201 Metollk block 202 Fluorexenl ouroro pink 203 Fluorestenl signol green 204 Fluoresrent mott Solutn yellow 205 Fluorexent molt fire oronge 206 white (glos) 207 Auroro pink (fluorexent glos) 208 Signol green (fluorestent) 209 Fire oronge (fluorescenl)
Red Bose

to add a visual illusion of

depth. For

instance, thinned black paint brushed onto an aircraft wing will settle in panel lines and hinge lines. Washes can be brushed on figures to add natural shadowlng.

Use a paint and thinner that wont

harm underlying coats ofpaint. Ifyou use lacquer color coats, you can safely use an enamel wash over them. Don't use lac-

quer over enamels, though, because lacquers will eat through enamels quickly. IJse an acrylic r.vash ovcr cnamels.

Gloss-white coveroge
I'm painting with Tamiya gloss white (X-2) but I'm having trouble getting it to cover. It leaves brush marks and it wont stick in some areas no matter how many coats I apply. I tried washing the model in warm, soapy water, but it didnt help.

- MarA Schicker
to
This paint seems particularly sensitive oi1 on thc plastic surface. Tiy wiping mineral spirits or rubber cement thinner
over the trouble spots after washing them

with

soapy water. These solvents will

loosen oils without affecting the plastic.

My favorite white paint is Floquil's Reefer White, but this should be airbrushed. For hand brushing, I like Polly Scale White. Both of these colors dry flat but will accept a clear gloss overcoat.

14 flneScale lYlodeler's

/
Bcst of

Q&{

Pqint before or ofter

Art-suppiy stores usually.,carry finer

brushes such as a 10-0.There )rent many

of these clears onto color

about spray cans?

coats?

What

I wonder why the models I see in FSM are built before being painted. I dont see how you can paint after the
thing is built.

ossembly?

- Mike

Devine

combination

of painting interior

detail before assembly and exterior finishes after assembly is the best way. Painting after assembly allows you to cover filled seams and gaps. For an airplane, build and paint the interior (cockpit) first, then paint the

interior wa1ls of the fuselage

Fill
seams

halves.

\,Vhen the paint is dry glue the cockpit in place and glue the fuselage together.

with super glue, add a touch

bristles, but they're expensive. \ No brush will keep forever, but a good brush will keep its point with proper cale. Clean it immediately after every use with a thinner that will dissolve the paint. Dip the brush in the thinner, but never let the bristles rest on the bottom ofthe container; that bends them. Pull the brush along a clean rag. Dont scrub it or jam it into the rag; that bends and even breaks bristles. You may need to dip and wipe several times before the brush comes clean. To restore the brush's point, put a drop of saliva on your fingertips and draw the brush through. This will hold the bristies in place. Put a plastic-tube cap on the brush and store it upright.

Tbr! Simian

Testor Glosscote and Dullcote are lacquers which, properly applied, can go over enamels and acrylics with no problem. However, dont hand brush them. The application will be too thick and the wet lacquer may eat through the underlying paint. You must be careful with spray cans as well.

Make sure the underlying paint

is

accelerator to harden the glue, then sand it smooth. Then glue on the wings and stabilizers, filling seams along the way if needed. Now you're ready to paint the outside of the model. You can siick a brass tube up the tailpipe or into a hoie for a propeller to hold the model while you paint. Find a way to mount the brass tubc (with the model on it) to keep from touching the paint before it dries.

of

Sproy mqtters
I'm worried about using Testor clear coats over enamels and water-based acrylics. Can I brush the bottled versions

completely dry - wait a couple of days for flat enamels and acrylics, a week for gloss paints. Spray light coats of clear and wait a halfhour before applying another coat. Ifyou build up the overcoat too fast it can soften and ruin the colors below. Airbrush these clear coats from the bottle with about25 percent lacquer thinner. Dust on several light coats and never allow the overcoat to puddle.
FSM

POPULAR MODELING SCALES

Srule

l"
equolt

I
3"

srole

srole

scole

(ommenls

lool

fqot "(dec.l nelel

3.0'
1.5'
1.0" .7s', .6"

Rough finish
How can I simulate crude, fieid-applied paint (such as temporary white winter or
sand-colored desert carnouflage) without

t/4 t/8
t/12
1

the model simply looking badly painted? Should a model like this be placed in a diorama or can it stand by itsel0 - Bryan Prima

/16

4" 8" I'1" l'4'

l'8"

lvi
vi
Yi
,%r"

t/20
t/22.5

,'At"
17/,'t"

t/24
1/2s
1/32

Build the model and paint the

base

colors as bcst you can. To simulate the field-applied camouflage, try thinning the paint and applying it with a brush or

t/3s
1/43

an eye-shadow applicator - a small, round, spongc-covered tool that, with practice, can produce the rough handapplied paint look you want. The model wouldnt need to be in a diorama if properly labeled, which is not a bad idea - not everyone who sees your the paint job is supposed to look the way it does. The qualiry of your construction and underpainting will show that you aren't ham-fisted.

t/48 t/64

1fi2
t/76 t/87
1/96

2' 2'l' 2'8" 2'l l" 3'i' 4' 5'4" 6'

7',3',

I'l0f'

.53"
.5"

.48'

'4" r'/n"

.3/5"
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.25" .l

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6',4"

"/*"
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.167',
.r 58" .r 38

8'
8'4"

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t/tzs
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work is going to know what it is. It wouldn't hurt to let your audience know

/144

t2'
l3'4" l6'8"
t8'4"
23'9"
29',2',

1/160 1/192 1/200 1/220

16'

.075'
1/,i'
.062"

.06'
.054" .042', .034"

t/285

have problems painting details. Is there a brush smaller than "0"? Also, how
do

Pointing tiny detoils

keep a good point on tn

t/3s0 1fi00
1/720

58'4" 60'
r

.017'
.016"

t/1200
1/2400

00'

.01'
.005"

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200'

mm mm 83.3 mm 62.5 mm 50.0 mm 44.4 mm 41./ mm 40.0 mm 31.25 mm 28.5/ mm 23.25 mm 20.83 mm 15.62 mm 13.88 mm mm mm 10.42 mm I0.00 mm 8.00 mm 6.94 mm 6.25 mm 5.21 mm 5.0 mm 4.54 mm 3.5 mm 2.86 mm 1.43 mm 1.38 mm .83 mm .42 mm
250.0 125.0
13.16 I 1.49

Flying models, live-steom lroins

(ors, molorcydes, live-sleom lroins (ors, molorcycles, dollhouses (ors, molorcydes, ormor (ors fioins (ors, lrucks, dollhouses (ors, lrucks, ormor
G scole

Aircrofi, cors, No.l scole toins

Armor

(ors, lrucks
%'-scole oircrofi, 0 scole troins

Airrrofi, Armot

S srole

fioins
ships

Airaufl, ormor, R(

Armor, H0 scole roins %" xole ships, oircroft

Airrrofl Airrrofl

Airsoft
N srole

foins

Zo" srole ships Aircroft, ships

Z scule

*oins

Worgome pieces
Ships Ships Ships

Worgome ships Worgome ships

w-fnescale.corn

BestofQ&A. 15

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