Professional Documents
Culture Documents
,,.jBmiit'^-::w^
Class
JIX5i5,
.fi^^
.
Book
Copyriglit^?
COraRICHT DEPOSm
^'Art in Dress"
'By
P.
Clement Brown
^1
s^^
SEP 25
'22
CI.A6833 76
/g?^3
DEDICATED TO
MY MOTHER
CopyrigKt
P.
b^J
CLEMENT BROWN
620 Fiftk Avenue
New
York
City,
N. Y.
IQ22
First Edition
P.
New York
New
York.
Ten
Introduction
The
contents of this book
show how
it is
possible
toi
become an Original
Designer.
P. Clement
possible question
by Descriptions
and Illustrations from his Pen and Brush, carefully carried out in diagrams
of Patterns.
-
How How
any
size.
to think out to
own
success.
(Professional Patterns) in
How to successfully use the Blocks. How to handle your Materials and Fabrics. How to combine Colors and Materials. How to use Ornamentation.
Your
line
comes
first
and each
detail follows in
may
Model
known
as a Designer.
Eleven
Design
De Luxe
The elements
of
of
Beauty
and
fabrics, color,
At
first it is
Taking
first
the
Silhouette Lines, which are the outside line forecasting the Fashion of the)
Day.
It is the outline of
it
may
be a chemise, or
expanded
From
yoke
exterior lines
we have
interior lines.
line,
chemise).
Our governing
Top
of
As you
them
your Fashions.
Lines
Try
to
form
in
your
mind a
line,
now
line.
away
a part of the
same
line
and substitute
lines.
an original
Make
The idea
lines.
Harmony
of Lines that
you are
Do
Remember,
by
far
by amateur
efforts.
One
Designer
is to
"Know
when
to quit".
Do
embroidery, ribbons
lines.
Lines
to
Twelve
Line
The
discussion of Line Construction
If it is
is
without Line,
it is
without Style.
It is of equal
is
The
deter-
of
Line
is
is
given to a Model.
It
Good
Line can be used without Color, but Color cannot be used to advantage without Line.
It is the
is
Line
for
constructed
permanency.
Through
Style
is
Common
and
Hem
of Skirt Lines.
radius.
Neck Lines
In
Common
by curvature
of Line.
An
angle
is
You
can
dif-
For instance, take a Square Neck Line, cut the corners open
This cuts
forming something
new
yet wearable.
of Skirts
Edge
of Sleeves,
Edge
of
Panels, Side
Seam
Lines, and
Hem
Logic.
Making
a line prominent
produces a majestic
effect.
These are
like the
Do
not
make an extreme
lines.
weakens
your supporting
Lines that extend at right angles or across, like Chest Line, Bust Line,
Waist Line,
etc.,
Their predominance
is position.
The
noto
Top
of
Do
boldly cut
away
Thirteen
two
different objects.
It is better to
logical.
Correct
Divisional Lines
First:
must be
The
For
example,
finish
it
if
out,
and jogs
in designing.
:
Second
You must
make up
Interior Line
work
must be
so that
it
Third:
Conformity of Line
You
is
Line must be
used as Decoration.
The
effective conception of
Line
is
"Common
Sense Line".
Fourteen
Clement Brown
is
The Psychology
programme
of
explained by applicable
of lessons, illustrations
The Art
of Designing
is
a reasoning process.
By
perception, relation,
creations.
influence, references
and
every"
day
facts,
Designing
is
embodied in the
Human
Indian,
Being.
We
a
who had
mind
The
mind
to
new and
profitable ideas.
Designing
is
purely mental.
is latent.
Gradually,
valuable asset.
The
principal of designing
its
is
is
acceptable
because of
popular
is
line.
that you cannot please more than a majority appreciating Smart Clothes.
It is
commonly known
The
Mind
that Molds,
must have
a skeleton to
work upon. As
its
a spider spins
its
way.
bits
may
Make your
Artist Designer,
best atelier of
You may
either
be an
Fabric.
ideas, or as a Designer from the Abroad and America, by producing your Model in the actual You may see and judge the result by draping the sample model
The important
you employ.
This
Powers
of Attraction that
done
like a
Mechanic
Design-
Scientific
a cultural development.
It is a
in France
and
Fifteen
has
now
spread through
all
America.
You
by
worn
Designed."
We may
is classified
analyze
by the
"World
at Large." of
The "Art
ment but
for
Dress" derived
its
an expression of Individuality.
gift to
Some have
It is the satisfaction of
mind, tempera-
has
its
Ecclesiastical
to Theatrical.
"Art in Dress"
Beauty.
It is
Architectural
Anatomy (From
the French).
Comprising
Making
of Pattern Blocks (a
of
System Used by
To-day
and
Professional
Designers
to
Yesterday,
in
To-Morrow
France" Way).
of Designing,
Book thoroughly
Department
in Dress";
it
from on a
with-
Originals can be
made
in
all sizes,
The
how many
of his
Models are
saleable,
it is
and
this
instructs
you
"How
Done."
By
P.
CLEMENT BROWN
of
New York
San Francisco,
Calif.
Paris,
France
Sixteen
Eighteen
Profile Face
First
C, D, E,
F and G
Next
AB
1, 2, 3, 4.
of the nose out on Line E, and one-quarter the length of the nose out on Line F. Through
shown
these points
draw Line
Line
and
between
Line AB.
D and your AB Line to the intersection of AB Line). Next fix your point 5, which is one-half the distance Line H (on Line E and on Line F) and the main perpendicular
Take one-quarter the length
of the nose
on both sides
tip to
is
of point 5 of nostril.
(on F) and that will give the width of the nose from the
wing
E and F. Now draw Line known and marked as Arrow Line on the diagram, which should measure from (point 5 on Line E) one width of the nose in on Line E. This gives to you a position for the center
between Lines
front of the eye-ball or
in
iris.
The
tip of
the eyelid
is
from
intersects E.
The width
also
eyelid,
down
that
much and
Make
As Arrow-Line
sides,
cuts eyeball
will be
even on both
with oval.
From
times the width of the nose, and from the front of the ear to the back of the
is at the end of the third space, and the length of the ear should be the same length as the nose (between Line E and Line F). Next draw your mouth. The point for the Cupid's
The
Bow
lip,
is
down under
down
tips is the
H and
Line
G
E
(the
bottom portion
of chin).
Remember
that
all
of the nose,
any
Nineteen
Twenty
draw
a perpendicular Line
AB. Then
rule Line C, D, E,
F and G
3, 4).
at right angles,
AB
To commence your
The width
of
You
of the nose
on both sides
shown on
diagram.
This will
The width
must be equal
to the
The eyelid must be kept same throughout, (width about one-eighth length of nose), in order to
line
Now
of
is
The
distance
lines)
to the
Draw
in all outlines.
The
Next draw
your mouth.
The
tip of the
upper
Bow
is
one-
F on
more
is
One-half
way
Twenty-one
>
A
of
Then
one
face.
At the end
draw a
To
that
is
Then measure
Top
of
Line.
The
obtain
To
to be
known
as a third.
When you
measure two-thirds
it
down draw
Neck
Line.
Keep your
The drop
Measure
this
down on Body
The shoulder
of
you
is
equal in width to one and one-third necks (or four equal thirds).
The
shoulder that
is
farthest
The depth
To
point
down
half faces
of
your
and
at this
draw a
Body
Line.
The width
of the waist
At
that point
draw Lin C
parallel to
Body Line
or Line One.
is
Now draw
the Silhouette
Body Lines
and B, on
You might
slightly
start
of the arm-hole,
The
line
becomes straight
Line.
Line
then
Line
and the
Where
and
point, fix
your center
front.
To draw Line
(or Center Front Line), start at the center of your neck on the
End
of the
Twenty-three
of
at the
of arm-hole to the
of
which are
to wit
From
the arm-pit
to wrist the
same
measurement.
in
any
position.
Like a pendulum.
the finger should be
first
To draw
first joint of
tips
extend over
first joint.
To
thirds,
obtain the proper proportions for the head, divide the top space into
third,
spaces.
Your
Line
AB
When
ers
and
Body
on.
Use every
As DesignDesigns
are
use
no guess
proportions
throughout
the
work,
the
Bymmetrical.
Corsetiering
Full
Manikins
E
measure down two-thirds
from the
width
of the
View
Face.
From
same
thirds obtained
neck)
at this point
draw a
Measure
mark Top
of
Limbs.
is
From
the
Top
of
draw a
and mark
it
End
of
Knee Cap.
is
From
the
End
mark
of
Soles of Feet.
For corsetiering measure out on Waist Line from Body Line or Line
one-half thirds.
Then measure
three-thirds on
Top
of the
Limbs
is
On
Twenty-fuur
The abdominal
well to
portions, hips,
etc.,
is
are
all
it is
remember
farthest
Line
On the
about three-
thirds above
Waist Line,
through the one and one-half thirds and then down through the three-thirds with a corresponding hip curve to opposite side.
The limbs
No
rules can
End
of
Knee Cap
at seven
Body
rest directly
Small Backs
Draw Line One
the back
vertically
;
making
The
front
is
worked up
in faces
take note
worked up
in heads.
Three
face.
Draw
Width
of
on each
side of
Body Line
The length
two-thirds
and draw
One-half
is
Draw
Width
down.
At
this point
draw a
At
this point
draw a At
The Top
Limbs
is five
this point
draw a At
line
at right angles.
End
of
Knee Cap
this
point
draw a
The
At
this point
draw
The width
of the waist
Draw
from
tip of
shoulders
down
to waist.
Thigh
one face out from Body Line or Line One each side of Top of Limbs Line.
Twenty-five
Twenty-six
Draft of Sleeve
Draw
dot
Lines
in left
hand corner
of paper
down
lYz inches
Now
Red
is
your
6 on A, with
One.
Model measure
is 16,
dot in
Number
and
this
Dot make B.
6
still is
resting on
Dot
to
dots.
That
This
is
Put
draw
the underneath part of sleeve and the rest of Line Three from Dot
to
From Dot
One. This
is
C on Line
of square unite)
Before moving this square Dot in on Line Four one and one-
make Dot D.
Dot One (the
first
From
from Dot
the Eyelet
this
dot
made
to
Dot
to Line
Put point
the long
of Square at
Dot
if
C, short
arm
arm continuing
as
to
of the
Now draw
E down
lOYz
is
inches (measurements from elbow to wrist) and at this point Dot F. the continued Line One.
This
Square
off at
Lower
To
separate take a tracing wheel and lay draft on another piece of paper
off
and trace
lower Draft.
Twentv-seven
It is necessary to
differ.
Mais
jority of
half,
which
Put your
3 inches even
on
is,
reduce evenly
both sides).
you how
to proceed.
Sleeve Creations
Designing.
Sleeve designs must be carefully chosen to beautify a creation.
of the
Some
just
in suggestion
Remember
Do
of
not
make heavy
loses
its
movement
arm
design.
Sketch an arm
first
according to proportions,
The
an original
No.
1.
at
Line Four
{elboiv).
Whatever measures a
third
upon the
sketch,
becomes
an inch upon the pattern, taken from the same point. on the miniature denote the block
part of your draft. Line
;
first
Top
Take
One
Top
to Wrist.
your measurements of
thirds.
Look on both
you
sides of wrist
will
on the sketch;
(when an arm
measurements
is
on one side
of the sleeve
measure on each
Do
not expect the wrist of the sketch and block to measure the same across.
On
is
on the
inside.
The
it
outside
is
on a
fold.
On
sketch
Look
draft.
to pattern No.
whatever
is
is
to
be considered as well, so
inches straight up to
on,
we measure two
Draw
line at four
inch
part of draft
Back
to Back,
separated four inches, two inches for top and two inches for bottom.
Now
line.
Line 6
side,
you
Twenty-eight
ment on bottom
two
side
inches.
line is two-thirds, so
at the
bottom
Draw Line
straight
up to
two
straight
up
to top.
of an inch
seams
at
bottom and
if
sides,
draft, or
you want
slight puff,
3 under-
No.
2.
is
As
per diagram on
hand
side.
No.
3.
from elbow
No.
4.
As
per diagram on
left
Close-fitting sleeve.
at elbow.
With
For
cuff
draw
line
up
to wrist
is
at
bottom
When
laying on your
as possible
all
and
cut.
No.
5.
In problem Five
For example,
it is
if it
measures
on pattern
transferred to
two
No.
In fullness lika problem Six, you add one or two inches extra,
In the problems of designing carefully study the points of advantage and manipulation of your blocks.
Twenty-nine
/
J
o
-
p
/'
ux
4- -
Ai
Yoke
This
square
right
hand
side of paper;
down middle
of back.
Now
now measure
amount
of the
Now
Line One, and draw Line Three, across paper, parallel with Line Two.
Before moving square. Dot in your half of the width of the back
inches; also at continued measure which inches; next
is
6^
Dot Chest
19 inches; next
Dot Bust 21
These four
Dots are
all
on Line Three.
straight lines
Now
Six.
draw
Two
above, parallel
and
On
Line
Two
draw a short
line
downward.
Body Line
or Line
One
The
first
made and
your Line
From
this dot
measure up
Nov/
in the
8 inches,
measure
in
this is the
At
two inches
make
dot.
first
Between the
dot on Line
rise,
One and
made
this
you
dot you draw a Line Eight over to Line Four and measure one inch above
the end.
This point
is
Now
Neck".
take your curve and look for that small part that says "Back of
is
This
in
two inches
is
down and
just
in
up to that
point, one-quarter of
an inch above.
of
Now
;
where where
it
it
says,
"Forming Rule
Back" you
V2
Put
this
V2 on
Back
Thirty-one
of the
Neck point and draw the back shoulder seam down and through the
is
point that
one inch above Line Eight, on Line Four, and extend one"
Now
first
(the
dot
the
just
made
at the
correct,
should be
8%
6 inches.
it
You
8%
at the point
where
;
up Line Five)
up the end
of the tape
beyond.
Now
your tape
may
be take that
much
out of
and place
it
and stop
Arm-syce measurement.
You
let
on Line Seven.
Make
on the semi-circle
line for
This
6 inches.
Put a Dot
at this point.
1
Pick up your
to that point
marked
says,
"Front
made on
semi-circle line.
To
it
Turn
says,
"Arm Syce
Curve".
curved end of form resting on Line Three, the upper portion resting on the
Now
that
we have drawn
we
will
7
draw the
on Line
Let
of
rest
The
front
and back
lines of
We
We
already
in,
line in the
In this case
it is
two
We
look to the two inches on the curve and put that on the Dot
Thirty-two
that
is
on Line Seven.
;
We
divide the
amount
is
of
into one-half
6^4 inches
we
let
that
number
on the
Arm
this
curve for
our neck.
We
curved
connect this point with the end of the Bust Point with either a
square.
Yoke Designing
One
your
of the
is
is
first
As you
Your law
one
line
common and
fancies.
In
my
if
have a
line square-toned I
keep to
my
touch of harmony.
Possibly
it
all essential.
They
are
just as important
of design.
We have three base mediums to work upon and they are Squares, Rounds
and Vs.
We
turn
now
to designing;
Select
Become
and Pattern.
of
your Line
D
is
You
back from Bust Line to neck point (point on Line 6) for your Center Front.
is
Line Three.
When you
examples.
I
In
my
Designs to you
my
center in
my
in
line
have
Prob-
far as to
drop
my
showing how
line.
Thirty-three
Pattern Designing
With
the thirds of the width of the neck proceed to take off your pattern from the Sketch.
Whatever
is
on the
Ideas.
draft.
We
measure on Line
D
it
the Bust-Line.
one-third
For the
is
width of the band that extends from the Chest-Line down, the width
third,
one
down
is
strips
it
is
necessary to double on
pattern.
pattern.
it
two inches on
The length
of
is
the strip
The extension
thirds
The space
in
between
Keep the
width the same throughout, also get your exact point on Line One at chest,
which
is
one-third out.
we have
all
points
of design
on Chest Line.
The
difference in
Problem Three
seam curve
is
made
to cor-
Modeling
To Model
In
all
In Pat-
Trace
it
off
In cutting
up around arm-hole
and neck.
How
1.
to
Take Measures
(Middle of Back).
2.
3.
inches.
Thirty-four
4.
of
5.
Width
Take
this half
measurement
in the back.
Then
In doing
this,
you pass
tape,
arm
same
and
first pin.
Take
this
to center of bust.
7.
Take around
enough
Rise of Back
Length
of
first
at waist.
10.
Length of Front
From
same bone
in
Neck
Around
^Around
tight.
be on.
12.
Waist
it
will
measure
down
13.
Sleeve
14.
From turn of shoulder to elbow; from elbow to wrist. Skirt From cord at waist to that point below knee as Fashion
decrees.
Be exact
in
fit
will be perfect.
*33,
Note bone
inches.
in back of neck is
through
then
two
Thirty-five
. .
Length
of of
Arm-Syce
Back
.
Width
Continued measure
Chest
Bust
Rise of Back
Length
Length
of
of
Back
Front
Pitch of Shoulder
Neck
Waist
Sleeve
Sleeve
Skirt
Top
to
Elbow.
to
Elbow
Wrist.
m
JOAKEOUTONE
INCH
1
I
S 5
i- s
s s
s's s s H-4-
Continued Draft
Draft Your
Yoke
first
as the
Yoke Lesson
Now
Continue Block.
line straight
The
is 16 inches,
and draw a
from the
inches.
you measure
in
two
Dot from
this
this point
down on your
Then from
up
to
of the
Below waist
down
to the Center of
into Yz
Back Line.
this arm-pdt
B and C
and from
draw a
line
down
to waist-line
To your
Dot
right
measure
and
Line measure
2^/^
and
draw a
line
up to arm-pit.
At
Red Curve
and look
for
3 of
Turn
face
downward with
dot.
V3
on 2j4'inch dot and draw Line of hip in down through the one-inch
Front
Draw
Point E.
is
a line straight
down from
is
The length
of the
of
your front
22 inches
we
the
Back
place the
two inches
at
Dot
on Line Seven.
Then measure
front
Line.
line.
your measurements are correct in the back we have 6J4 inches between the 2J^ inches in and the Yz inch in. This is Yz o^ Back Waist. Place your
&Ya inches, which represents the back portion of your waist, on the
inch
Now
is
Y2 o*
26^,
that
The amount
you have
it is
left is
the
amount
you divide
into Y2 for
two darts
Make
line
waist-line
and
dividing-line,
line
square Y2 i"ch.
this Y2 of
Take
Take
and
line
Dot, and draw from this dot up to Bust Dot on Line Three, and below waist
line, 9
inches down.
Y2 of the dart
and
Thirty-nine
measure on Line Three toward your front from dividing point or Arm-Pit.
it
in halves
of,
dart to dispose
and
you measure
from your
on waist
line.-
Yz dart at arm-pit.
line in front,
place
line
9 inches.
Our Center
Line.
line.
Points
not exactly
pull this
The technique
It is
is
it is
if
is
name
It
Your
top or bottom, and you have side lines which also have to be considered.
is
Every
Do
in
Line
is
Emphasize harmony
it
your
line,
if
you introduce
into
your designing.
Problem One.
it
You
open portion
square as
of
So when
my
Bib
lines.
It is also
all
I
it
have
is
my
is
inside opening
the
first
neck
used (Bateau).
The
The upper
inside lines
lines are
of the cut correspond with the outer edge of the Bib Lines.
The
carried longer
by added
strips
In Problem Two,
we
down
between
We
are using a
Forty
plain material.
and
it
will
unvarying straight
lines
can conef-
You have
in this
tie. is
Now we
As
if
You
to
can note,
have taken
my
end of the
line
and spread
it
at the
bottom
it
form pockets.
into
two
lines
and drape
it.
Near Waist-Line
the belt.
going besay
Limbs
Line.
You may
extreme.
Pattern Designing
Problem One.
For the straight
Taper
full
line
neck
it
is
necessary to take an
length
down
on the
diagram.
half of a dart in
is
on the
You
also pinch in
Later
we
will
outward, but
it
is
Our
neck) on Illustration
Line
which
is
one-third.
of
draft.
The width
your strap
of a third.
or draft.
The
Transferred on
Length
of Bib
is
same
is
One
Body Line
or Bust Line.
Back.
your shoulder
in front.
to
it
in
and take
it off
Forty-one
Problem No.
One.
Line.
2.
The curve
of the
The
one inch above Bust-Line and one inch below Bust-. The opening beginning below is two inches over from Line One. In
slip tie is slip tie
making a
It
is
isi
makes
six inches.
The end
of the
opening
one
is
sprung,
it
^, and then
Back
is
on each side
of that dot.
Then
in
the same.
Draw
lines
Waist-Lines, open and insert spring, spreading one inch at bottom tapermg
up
to nothing.
Problem No.
The
effect
Then
The
belt is also
done likewise.
The
9 inches below.
line for
The drop
of the
For any panels or vestees that hang from the shoulder or near Spring shoulder, get yoiu: position and then drop or continue downward.
three times for added fullness but do not separate at waist-line.
When
full-
added by springing slight puckering comes into the pattern, but just that press out or flatten and cut straight. This does not come on the part you add fullness. Straighten your shoulder seam.
ness
is
For
collar
measure around neck take straight piece and cut to that length,
Spring this evenly six times
way down.
At the end
Forty-two
m Af^DJI
ONE DARTED LINING
A TWO DAKTED
LINING
OARTLESS LINING
"^
PBlMCESS LINING
Forty- four
Two Darted
First of all
size.
Lining,
Number One
You may
of
in
we
use any
The
first
thing to do
amount
your darts.
one and one-
Work upon
measure
The amounts
and
y/^
of
in
amount
of the darts
change according
For the
sides of
5 face
up on
last dot of
draw
to dots
on Bust Line.
For
left side
put face
to tip of dart
on Bust-Line.
first
draw down
to that point.
first
Then measure
from
this end,
one dart
and draw
line
down from
directly
line
draw down
which
is
to that point.
inch in
line,
drawn
Below
3
the waist
draw hip
on the
line.
half-inch in (Face
Which
is
Use
the back.
French Bias.
From
draw up
point
Number Two
Normal Waist-Lin
drawn down
down
Normal Waist-
draw up
line over
one
dart, dot,
then take
the
Use
Forty-five
Number Three
divide into one-half
(5/2).
then
under that below Tight or Normal Waist Line dot nine inches (9) down.
Place on each side of dot on Tight or Normal Waist-Line one-half of a dart
and
dot.
For the
sides of
5 of
your
draw the
on Bust-Line.
For the
left side
put (V 5) face
of
For sides
or
the 9-inch
measurement below.
from the 54 inch
line
The second
dart
is
point.
and
dot,
measure
one dart from the end of the back hip line and then from dot
3 of
draw
down
to your dot.
Use
the back.
Dartless Lining.
Measure
in one-half (5^) of a dart
Number Four
from your center front and
dot.
Then
Normal Waistdi-
Line point under the arm and dot, and from that point draw up to the
viding line under the arm.
line of the
3 of
on waist
lining
line
When
placing
on
figure, take
two small
side darts
to the Yz
remaining
dart.
for back.
Princess Lining.
Use your two darted
on Bust-Line
(top of your
Number Five
Between your two dots
divide into one-half and directly
dot.
two
darts)
two dots
is
make
Forty-six
make another
dot.
It is also permissable to
Divide your
face
5)
up and
Now
take your
Red Curve (V
Line and draw in your right side of dart up to the dot above Bust-Line.
Face down on
left side
dot.
draw down
straight
in
down
The
two
parts.
from
or
arm.
Below the waist measure over one dart from the end
is
back
9 inches down.
Take
3 of
intersecting
ing the curve of your hip extending nine inches from the Tight or
Normal
Make
Put
which
is
dot.
side
measure out
of an
one-half.
Now
take
(V
5)
face
of
left side
(V
5) face
up
Dot down
9 inches
Waist-Line.
Take
of
this point.
dart points on Princess Waist-Line to the opposite sides of these and then
straight
down.
You
will
sides
overlap,
the overlapping
by tracing
From
down touching
Make
Forty-seven
Darted Linings and One Darted Lining with Flat Felled Seams.
After your Linings have been cut out, having allowed Yz inch for seams
Then
Turn
flat
and hem.
To sew
wrong
around arm holes and neck, pin lace on right side of material
Then turn
and then
flat.
side,
of
an
inch.
line,
hem
To sew
lace
around neck
roll at
same time:
pin lace
on right
side Y i
roll
a" inch
material
from edge
at
same
time.
of
side,
finished
seam
J4 of
an
inch.
Forty-eight
Fifty
of Style.
Model
pleases those
taste.
first to
In designing
is
is
professional
know your
Silhouette
to
line.
This
the
same
new
ideas of adornment.
Under
line
the
straight
below normal.
The
seam
lines
would be as straight as
Keep your
and do
to cover over
in Silhouette
The Chemise
is
or Straight Line
one.
have obtained
my
I select
a bold design
good frame
such a design).
Just a httle
above
my
my Body
Line
relieve the
Model by
extending to the
hem
For a
relief
and
still
it
to
hang.
This
I
is
placed at
my
Chemise-Waist-Line which
Normal.
have kept
far
to keep a
good straight
This keep-
Chemise Blocks
Take Block
from the neck
(the plain
back
which
is
of a dart in.
Fifty-one
inch,
and
from that point draw down to the Dot two inches out from Chemise Waist
Line and to a point seven inches down from Normal Waist-Line.
that point
From
draw
straight
down
to
Normal Waist-Line.
Back.
Two
Do
under the arm in the Back, but from your arm hole draw down through this
Two
inch Dot to a point seven inches from Normal Waist Line and then
straight to the
To
put in fullness
it is
It is
generally
how much
Common
hem
and
Back
it
Draw
scissors.
line straight
Cut a
strip
and apply
will spread
at the
You may
or you
may
lay your draft upon another piece of paper and open these springs
one inch at the bottom, pin down and then cut out fresh block.
Experienced Designers have the Straight Line Blocks made up
in a
Sometimes the
fullness
comes
in the skirt
then you can divide the Chemise Block at the Chemise Waist Line.
you divide
into one-half
comes
in the
by dividing
into one-half.
You may
at the sides.
flat in
Modeling.
To
get a straight line neck, take one inch off of the Center Front and
in
in the
Fitfy-two
the
arm one
inch
more
to
to the
is
The change
that
is
made
in the
Back Block
Add one
arm
as in the
Take
flat
down on your
down and
it.
take length
from any
line just
Leave
half inch
seam when
Take
off
piece of paper with your thirds properly fixed and proceed to take
If it is a third
Model.
on the Sketch
it
line of
importance that
is
nearest
to.
one-third
or
Body
The panel
line.
thirds,
but as
2^
inches.
Put your panel straight and evenly placed on Line One or Body
The Back
is
which
between
by trimming.
2%
it
One
or
In the Back
how
is
made from
the
regulation Block.
To make
and underarm
to-
for length,
Fifty-three
'S5
Fifty-four
SEMI-FIT BLOCK
little
more expression
of a Silhouette Line.
New
Ideas.
It
The importance
of
an object
I
is
of materials; therefore
You want
is
to
much
Line
as possible.
is
The
object
to
meet the
human
scientific study.
Remember
that
is
half
Waist Line.
In the Problem
I
line in panels.
line,
making
my
lines
harmonious.
of lines in
In the construction of
two
materials.
Use the
lines to bring in
new
ideas,
always remember-
No
matter
how you
Semi-Fit Blocks
Take your
plain working Block and turn your front back from the neck
to the waist line,
which
is J/^
of a dart in. at
paper or material.
Dot.
Measure out
inches.
a line
draw
down
At seven
measure
line
From
down
Measure out
1^
From
From
Fifty-five
down
to that point,
3'0
this point
draw down
Draw
Center Back
down
straight.
Fullness
In the case of Fullness, divide the
hem
line into Yz
and then
again.
Draw
straight lines
Do
not get a
dowdy
On
your sketch
you must place the same properly and then measure from your important
nearest
line.
You may
In the case of fullness your Design will show the number and amount of
springs.
Modeling
Take your regular Semi-Fit Block and place on the
fold of the material.
Be
sure that
all
of
in,
such as Line
One
or
Body
Line, Chest Line, Bust Line and your Semi-Fit Waist Line.
to the Yz dart in point
Your
on Center
it
Use the
thirds taken
is
1%
inches.
It is
is
Front.
One
or
Body Line
gauged by getting
position.
You
or
Seam
half
way on
the pattern.
over ends you always measure the amount which in the sketch
one-third.
for the
Add
underneath portion.
In this
case making
or three inches.
The Black
drafted in one.
hem
in thirds,
and transfer
in inches.
Fashion
Back
of sketch is transferred in
same manner
as
shown on
pattern.
Fifty-six
in the
now make
it
four
two-thirds, or
cuff, first
on each side of the seam. get the length by measuring down from the elbow
inches,
two
In this case
it
is
know
that
it is
10^
add an inch as
it is
ly^ inches
from elbow.
For the
we
Draw
in the
side.
flare
add an inch
spring
is
in a piece of
Fifty-seven
Fifty-c'uiht
Creation of
The
Specialists in the
Kimona
Sleeve Models
Every
of the
hit or
miss treatment.
Whatever
must
For instance,
brought
in
in the use of a
Kimona
Sleeve,
by designing a
is
set in sleeve.
joined
Kimona
set in sleeves.
Your
I
cuts.
The
triple idea
me
breadth
of space to
work
in.
will gradually
may
either
lines
yoke
inset, cuts as in
new neck
with the
line in perfect
harmony.
Pattern Making
First take a piece of pattern paper or tissue paper and place
Back and
may
of the Block.
Redraw
it
in
on the
front.
Placing points A,
B and C on
is
Line
Three.
Between
draw
seam.
a straight line
down
to
This
your underarm
in
Bust Line
from the Chest Line on underarm seam and then draw the width
parallel
my
sleeve
There
is
no rule governing
Kimono
Sleeve.
It will
To
arm
get the length of your sleeve you measure from neck across shoulder
to
down
to wrist.
side
Fifty-nine
it
can be used in
Now
turn your
of the
Neck point
line.
Cut
Front.
is
same
is
turned
Trace or draw on
important
lines,
such as
You may
you use
between
B and
C.
Then
at
down through
beyond
Then draw
Do
the
To add your
and C.
Then
inch.
the
arm down
Waist Line
to
Make
the
the
hem
Normal Waist
Do
It is
specially designed.
On
the bottom line divide into one-half and dot, then on each side into
one-half,
making three
springs.
Chest Line.
point.
The Springs
There
is
a difference in necks.
We
more
difficult.
off
Then
half
take out a
It is
now
your underarm
line
down
to
is
Sixl's
is
smaller now.
Take from the neck and add your inch under the arm.
Three for Round and Square Necks and Number Four for Straight Neck
diagram.
Modeling
Lay
off
first
your design.
Model
first in
In transferring your design from Sketch to pattern you measure from your
main
lines,
to
The
thirds in the
when
transferred to pattern.
The
Remember
Sixty-one
now
This
a two-piece suit
pendulum
effect
Wear. The
principal of
which
is
easiness of line
and
relative
motion of
an
idea, the
to
Feminine
desires.
is
It is
executed by
Just face
it,
the Scarf idea and drafting onto the same a pocket, a newer idea.
turn
it
it
on.
We
too extreme.
The
Skirt
is
Pattern Designing
Coat Block Take your Pattern Block and lay
:
it
rial
about one inch or so in from the edge of your material (Center Front).
;
at the Straight
inches.
From under
the
we draw
a line
down
it is
We
Two
of these springs
may
Back
You do
not add the inch out under the arm, but you measure out
at the
You
also
From under
a line
down through
the
two
inches at the Loose Waist Line, and extend nine inches below the Tight
Waist Line.
making three
springs.
You
You
the Back.
draft a large sleeve
Sleeve:
in that
To
amount
in the perforation
on that part
Red Curve
that
is
pre-
Slxiy-three
If
just continue
on
All
same
slant
Front.
The width
of the sleeve
is
optional.
Be sure
Skirt:
Take your
hem
of skirt,
or
3 of
and put
at the
one inch out point of the Waist Line and draw your Waist
front.
To add
on each side
bottom
Draw from
the line open and insert a piece of paper spreading one inch at bottom and
tapering up to nothing.
Back
rial.
Then measure up
Back
^ of an inch.
Make
of
Line at the hip measure out one inch, seven inches down from the hip
inch.
From
the
to that
down
hem.
your Red Curve and place on the Center Back and draw down the curve
In adding fullness for your block,
on each
side,
making
three springs in
all.
Draw
lines
up
to
insert a piece
of paper spreading
one inch
at the
to nothing.
if
In making a
full skirt
you
wish on the
first
springing,
at the top
desire.
at the bottom.
If
Add
a
as
many
you
you want
peg top
skirt
you wish a
side
flare at the
bottom add
Spring
more springs
3/^
to the bottom,
making your
seam
length up or down.
It is well to
know now
that
Sixty- four
it
to the sides.
You have
to
it.
It is
done
in.
Use springs
in the
Pattern only.
In the case of gores, put front and back together; take and divide the
amount
inches,
of gores
From
draw
down
nine
will cross
Make
as
many
gores as desired
Modeling
Take your regular Coat Block,
from Line One or Body Line.
on the edge
it
It is
at that point
if
of
Lay
out.
Use
straight shoulder as
of shoulder, take
preferred.
off
directly
on top
one inch
shoulder seam and add one inch up to Back Block, drawing straight shoulder
seam.
Sleeve.
all
In case of drafting for the Scarf take your regular plain Block, with
This Scarf
falls straight
or
Body
Line.
of
Line One.
advised,
are doubled so
when
two inches
two inches
on each
making the
It is
below the edge of the coat and eleven inches from Tight or Normal Waist
Line.
it
rises
a half inches
In
We
have
to
five inches.
is
extends three
eight inches.
The
outside
inside.
is
We
The edge
fringed.
In drafting a Collar of this design, you take your pattern and measure
Draw
of the
Divide
it
into oneIf it is
neck
is,
the
Back
Neck
will
Measure up
lJ/$
inches.
From
that dot
draw
The
Sixty-five
measure taken
straight
Line
is five
inches on draft.
Draw
inches
up
five inches
From
1%
Neck
is.
Then from
draw up
is
to those points.
line
side.
directly through.
Making
six
cuff
Draw
Round
Make your
it
measures one-
on the Sketch.
Make
cuff double
comers.
line
scarf.
Sixty-six
^\
way
of designing, in
of
is
The same
We
of this
is
find that
it is
Do
not
cut or strip your side lines, but hold to fine line balance.
good example
sufficient
side.
In this
case
Up
in sensible balance.
ings, so
odd numbers
The
An
alluring effect
we must assemble
similar
We
In Bodice Design
There
is
no other formation
of line so acceptable as
These formation
lines
first
and
its
proper
The
lines of the
Bodice or the top part are upon the Semi-Fit Lines, extend-
and upon a
have
taken the straight of the material with ample extensions on both sides to
make
cascades.
These
At the bottom
This
is
the simple
way
in
which the
draped.
The
is
train
is
length.
The width
sufficient to rest
is
Sixty-nine
split
down
falls
to
still
line.
It
then
upon the
floor in a solid
mass.
you
Modeling
Take your regular Drafting Block (any
upon the
fold of
size that
you
prefer)
and place
first.
your material.
You always
1^
Connect these
by
side
seam
lines.
Your
Bust Line, passing Chest Line one inch beyond Line One, and the width of
the shoulder strap
inches lower.
is
tip.
it is
two
Lay
in the neck
line curves.
The
waist front
is
J^ or a 54-inch
seam throughout.
Use your
Back:
Front.
lines as per
The back
and allow
fall of
the cascades.
Place
it
seam
ends.
The^
cut
at least a three-quarter or
In getting
the width of the panel and train, measure across your Semi-Fit Bodice back
on the bottom
line
line
and make
line.
it
an inch
of the side
seam
two
Your foundation
lining is the
Cut out neck and under the arms the same as outer bodice, but make shoulder
strap one inch in width.
The
Bodice.
is
cut on the
same
lines as the
Back
Make
The
The opening
is
in the back.
Seventy
The
skirt is a regular
peg top
skirt, that is
times from the bottom up, and four times from the top down.
quarters the length of the skirt.
Each
three-
Make
is
The
decollete
The
Skirt
is
of
White Salome
The Gown
is
trimmed with
pearls.
Seventy-one
Seventy-tzvo
same Model
is
produced by different
The treatment
differ in
of such a
Model must be
it
accurate.
If the
opposite sides
If
we
and
still
expressing
a difference,
we have made no
of Line.
falsity of Line.
Work now
Psychology
create
sides, still
do not
in one.
them
two frocks
Naturally
if
The theory
is
to apply simply
and
scientifically.
You must
mind
that
in
your judgment independent in treatment must bring your single object out
opposite independence with mutual relation.
Direct judgment of right and
here.
wrong
lines
am
calling
(Kimona;
Body
part of the
Model
On
boldly
shown
and newness.
The
sleeve
at the waistline
is
and then
continue
down between
finished with
side of the
We
is
The
loosely below the waistline, and slightly tacked to the end of the cascade
Modeliitg
Take
a regular
(unsl'ruiig).
To
inch.
This
a regulation method.
Now
see that
Sevent^'-three
all
off of
Your
sleeve formation
comes
Instead of
drawing your
line
to the
hem
of the dress.
This
is
you
The width
of
your sleeve
four-thirds
four inches.
top or sleeve
The
strip
You
You
will
regu-
lar
Block by separating into one-half between the Center Front Line and your
Side
Seam
Line, Dot, and then into one-half on each side of this dot.
Draw
off
straight lines
up
to Chest Line,
The neck
is
t^en
as
Body Line
or
or Line
Line.
One
Half
One
Body
or
Body Line
it
of a third
and
1^
thirds.
These
all trans-
Back: The plans of your Back are worked out in the same rules as
applied to the front.
Do
with matching the shoulder tips or Kimona Sleeve tips and taking your inch
off at
the top of your neck, add your inch imder the arm.
and side
is
lines the
same as the
front.
This imderslip
made
of crepe.
of paneled effect is
Now,
remember your
For
slightly curved.
You
by placing
Line.
V
is
5 of
your Red Curve and running that curve up from the Waist
Side.
This
your Right
projection,
which when
cut will
point
this
is
fall softly
into a cascade.
up 1J4 thirds above the extension of the Chemise Waist Line. From point draw directly up to the tip of the shoulder, marked Two (Left Hand
Side).
The
rest of
your Block
is
Seventy-four
your cascade in
thirds.
This one
line
measures seven-thirds.
length
line,
and
as
much
as
to the
hem
of
draw down
to the
end
your
line.
Drop down on
is
this
now draw up
dot,
to the corner.
This line
cascade.
of this line
of the cascade
you
divide
into one-half
half
of this dot
you divide
into
one
and
dot.
Draw
lines
Open and
insert a
one
In
inch spring, spreading one inch at the bottom and tapering up to nothing.
cutting this spread out the line where the springs are and any puckering in
lines press
if it
a tight dart.
Cut the
above
were not
to be
The
is
made
of Velvet with
a Fashioned
Girdle of Roses.
Seventy-five
Seventy-six
Line of Suggestion
Often another Idea
is
created by Suggestion.
It is
the experiment of
It is
bringing onto our Models the outlines from some other direct object.
the association of lines that have the advantages and usages.
cisely different but at the
They
are pre-
their origin.
easily pass
These conceived
ideas
Lamp
Do
not carry
a too exact reproduction but just the idea to a certain extent (a similarity of
line).
will gradually
form
lines
with
in
Be
able to place
same
The Laws
of Association
Lines of suggestion are produced by looking for Ideas in the simple forms
of association
to another
Form your
gentle expres-
Modeling
Take one inch
off the front of
is
From
is
this
point
draw down
to
your waist
3/^
line.
The
of a
third up.
The width
of a third.
is
Then draw
of the neck.
The Back
Put the
tips of
your
shoulder together, so the inch will come out at the top of the neck.
In curv-
ing both back and front get the curve of the arm hole and then straight down.
For the bodice (underneath) use the same Block, only take the remainder
of the Yi dart off of the front.
You remember
that
you took
ot a dart in
in.
Now
Seventy-seven
Use
Peplum
of
your Block.
Take the
making
front and divide into Yz, dot, and then one-half on each side of this dot,
three springs.
Open and
Do
the
same spread
at the bottom.
front.
Then
Gather onto a
Hang
lace
skirt underneath.
It is
regular Skirt Block that has been sprung three times, and on the waist line
divide into one-half and dot, then take and divide into one-half on each side,
draw
lines
down
54 t^^ length and open and spring, inserting one inch at the
to nothing.
top tapering
down
is
In
like
The Model
made
of Black
Seventy-eight
Eighty
Theme
An
established fact
is
of Line
of Line or
that the
Theme
Knowledge
of Line is
An
New
idea.
in this case
it is
an old
of
Line
is
The
modern
state.
It is the evolution of
Day
Influence from
some Country.
still
Should your Inspirations come from Periods modernize the line but
enlighten the Model with the
same atmosphere.
Gown, Bouffant
in
Line
Spanish
make your
lines
modern bodice or
Some
exaggerated.
The
upon the
interpreta-
Trend
is
is
adapted by a Majoris
Season
Trends.
Modeling
Take your regular Two-Darted Lining Block and convert
it
into
Kimona
is
Sleeve Block.
up.
This
is
made
Refer to your
Kimona Group.
is
made with
Two-Darts.
To make
one inch dart
Take one
inch off of the neck and lay this on the fold of your material or paper, pinch
in center of Shoulder
arm
(this is
from
one
this side
dart.
seam one
dart, dot,
This
:
is
To have one
below
two darts
is
as follows
On
Square
To
Take one-half
5 face
up
Eighty-one
and draw
your
dart.
in
5 face
down
to
draw
in
your
left side of
The
For your
straight neck
the shoulders.
The Back
is
Kimona
Block.
It
made up
Match up
all
off at the
pre-
Lay
Back
of
Kimona Block
as
tracing through Line Six to obtain the position for Center Back, etc.
Skirt
:
Waist Line
of
your
of
skirt.
side
seam
your
Divide your added portion into one-half, dot, then into one-half on
each side of that and dot, then in between each one of these points divide into
one-half, dot.
Now
draw
lines
down
Y^ the length of
skirt.
This makes
six
springs.
half
On
your regular
and
dot, then
on each
between one-half
This makes
again, dot.
six springs.
If
Now draw
to
lines
^ the length.
line,
tapering to nothing.
of
you care
paper and
cut out a
new
pattern.
Be
is
The
bottom part
of the skirt
made by
up
to the
Waist Line.
is
The Back
This
is
drafted the
same as Front.
the only rule that properly and evenly balances a Bouffant Skirt.
To
you
will
is
away
the
draped in
Take
this piece
fullness.
Cut the lace out with the proper extenLines across diagrams show
how
por-
Now make
elastic
Take a
of
will
open
fix
in the back.
it
Put a piece
so that
will
Eighty-two
bend so that it will extend nine inches out on the hips, and about four inches over on back and front hips, so that you can tack it down on the elastic with good
support.
Take a piece
Take three
pieces of
tape and put in supports from the wire up to the waist tape. are always used in the support of Bouffant Lines.
These extensions
For your
lining of this
Satin Faced Heavy Crepe (white). Princess Lace interlined with Crepe Georgette (white). Orange Blossoms and LiUies of the Valley edge the skirt where it is cut away and white satin faced ribbon forms the Heart on the side.
The
is
of Silver
It
Brocaded
Satin,
floor of five
yards in length.
slightly tapers
in to the
on
sides.
It is
down to almost the width of the Brocade rounded at the end starting about four inches up lined throughout in White Crepe de Chine.
is
silk ribbon. Take and run it over the shoulders and across in front (from opposite sides), connecting on piece
harnessed on by
around waist.
securely tack.
Come
straight
down from
of
Bodice.
The
Bridal Veil
is
of Bridal Net.
With Coronet
of Medallion of
Eighty-three
Eighty-four
Discovery of Line
Models when they have characteristic
of the
lines
The Discovery
Line
is
of practical import-
ance.
The
Ornamentation
It is
to the actual
wearing
modern
discovery.
It
"Up
to Date Different".
The
into a Chic
Model
iot
Milady.
In your designing you must be able to discriminate and limit your line
conditions.
Do
that of another.
Make
it
in this
problem comes
of lines
in general lines,
but
no exactness.
The suggestion
a specific Period.
through
a valuable determina-
tion of the
idea.
Laws
of
Other unrelated
may
be
brought into the Design for example a Surplice Front, High Collar and large
Kimona
Sleeves.
The
fullness of line
strictly
Modeling
Take
a regular
straight across at
the Chemise Waist Line separating the Blouse and the Skirt parts of the
Block.
Take
up to Chest Line.
Making
three springs.
Take the
Skirt portion
and spring
and then on
Draw
down
Eighty-five
Be
sure that your Important Lines are put on the pattern, such as Line
etc.
Take
and fold
double, as
we
Turn your
This
is
must be drafted
within
The end
of the Surplus
of
nearer your
On
Chest Line
of
Line One.
But
it
we
on
still
continues
up
left side of
Take
as this
is
paper that
it
out,
The
Sleeve
is
made
to elbow.
To
draw
straight line
up from your
shoulder seam 5 inches, in center front draw straight line 5 inches up, add
side.
Then
slightly curve
down
to the
neck
line.
Divide
at top
on the top Une and add one inch spring, spreading one inch
to nothing at end.
and tapering
Of
course, in this
is
The
Surplice of Skirt
is
drafted in
to
it
same manner.
It is IJ^
inches over
hem
oi
1%
side.
taper
The Back
drafted in the
drafted on
by draw-
Seam up
one inch.
Draw
Seam
At
as
shown
in diagram.
You
by measuring up one
a line
Seam from
is
point of shoulder.
Draw
down
parallel
Eighty-six
Shoulder to the Waist Line (on Pattern) and add that from shoulder for
length of Scarf.
This Scarf hangs loosely from the end of the Surplice Line,
down
down
hem with
the
same width
In putting this Model together at Waist Line use a heavy cording of the
material.
The Model
is
made
of
Kasa Cloth.
The embroidery,
is
of dark red
The
made
of the
thread.
Cording:
Cut length
of material
Place
Waist Line:
Sew
at each edge
and draw
elastic through.
Eighty-seven
S s s s s
s s
lOTI^AES
Eighty-eight
Relation
else.
Through the
and
is
to receive
on a Model.
The shape
of the
Problem shown
is
We apply
only
outlines of objects.
Perceive things that have quality of Line then your structural ideas will
express them in design. Your rights of judgment must be fixed and defined,
lines of the
still
French Basket.
Through
simplicity.
Remember
object
must predominate.
Modeling
Take your regular working Block.
Lay on
Remember what
is
third
You
Normal
get the
Waist Line.
It is
we
will draft,
Cut
2.
To
projecting point
we must measure
lines,
then
Waist Line, then two inches up from the original seam you add another
spring.
point, spreading
of
nothing.
tie
Measure up one-half
shoulder strap.
length to
Bodice.
tie
over
making
down
four.
Curve your
down
The Front
Make
the
One.
This
is
on the fold
We
cut open
thei
center
spring straight to the waist line and insert a one-inch spring, spreading one
Eighty-nine
Two
we
spring,
in front.
The Back
done
in
some manner.
is
The Bodice
Block.
half
or underneath effect
on waist
and
dot, then
into hcdf
one inch.
The Back
is
The
The
fullness is
drawn
full
in
on an
elastic.
is
Skirt
is
very
skirt given.
You
has been sprung three times from the bottom up, as original skirt blocks
are.
(front
and back), as
after this
you
Chemise Waist
on each
Line.
You
divide your
you divide
of these points
lines
Eight times in
You draw
from each
one of these marks down 3^ the length. Open and spread one inch at top,
tapering to nothing at the end.
The bottom
of skirt is
You
and
You
on each side of
In between divide again and from each one of these points you draw a
straight line
up
is
The Back
at the
After
all
the springing
is
off
Lengths of
all skirts
In taking
panels
we
same by measuring
Nine thirds doubled
Then double
18 inches
when
transferred.
The
three French
Bows
the panel.
loop
is
made by
The
material of this
of
Model
The
The
interlining of the
effect is of Blue.
is
French coloring
the material
may
be used.
Ninety
FOLDED CASCADE
CONNrCTS ON BO\M
Ninety-two
Individuality of Line
The importance
It
Wearer.
Youthful
Lines
characteristic
to
Youth.
They
are
modern
girl in all
Through
lines
wings
lines.
in softness
and beautifulline.
ness of
artistic
touchps in grace of
Ribbons), Garlands, and Fluffy, Lacy effects (such as RufHes and Flouncings)
may
Almost
anything that suggests a waving motion might be used. In the problem given the Bodice
(front and back) ending in a
effect.
is
cascaded
effect.
The
Skirt
is
same.
Modeling
We
will first turn our attention to drafting the portion that is
is all
known
as
cut in one.
Block, and place on the fold of your material or paper, this must be folded
is
drafted.
We
will first
one-
Draw your
marked One
line
from your
side
seam
The dotted
line
Now
curving
instead of pointing.
Turn
and add
This
is
more inches
to
You
will notice
left off
and continue
Ninety-three
line
marked
Two
will guide
you on diagram.
This
bow on
As
the back
is
a continued surplice,
connect the back block to the side seam of the front block.
or paper under the center back.
From under
the
arm we draw,
marked Three
is
to four inches
in the back,
you measure up
line as
inches.
Then draw
surplice
you
drop
down
to the Semi-Fit
block back portion the other half portion and directly to the center front.
Measure
for the
is
on the extension
of the surplice
you measure up
bow
is
ten inches.
Open and
spring the
bow from
the top.
down
you
To make
a folded cascade
fold the material or paper three times, to the exact length about 36 inches
Measure down
length and then directly opposite that point on the fold side mark.
point measure
From
that
down
half the
measure
9.
Directly
opposite the 9-inch point on the opposite side mark, then measure 9 inches
down.
Then
down
Mark
Add
this
Circular Skirt
Take your regular
skirt block that has already
top.
When
One
they have been sprung, you put your hips together and
let
the
it
is
Ninety-four
the
left
After you
have cut your French Bias Lining lay your Front and Back together and
draft
it
off of the
same
block.
is
The
bow
and swathing
georgette.
wine shade
of crepe
tropes on cable cord in shades ranging from light lavender to deep purple.
The bow on
out.
the interior
is
It is also
wired
The
underslip, or lining,
is
made
Back Seam
First pin side
seam
of skirt together.
Then
of the material.
Ninety-five
Ninety-six
Character of Line
Character of the Wearer can be personified through Line.
Not alone
the Personal Character, but any character on the Stage can be represented
is
lines
and through
we have
the co-operation
of Arts, the
Sometimes the
popular.
good character
of line
is
The World
must cope with
is
a Stage
and upon
it
are
many
Players.
will suit
The Designer
this idea
It
many
different
kinds of characters.
Modem
Plays.
Character of Line
we
and
would
a Tragedienne.
full of active
motives.
We would We prevail
Type
active
is
designed on circular
in this
Design
Modeling
Semi-Princess Block:
lation
Two
way between
this dot
the
two dots on
off directly
below
on Semi-Fit Waist
Line, and square off seven inches below this dot (Square off
straight below).
means dot
Red Curve (V
5)
draw down
to dot
on Bust Line.
of dart,
Measure on each
side
of dot on Semi-Fit
up draw
(V
5) face
down draw
From
down
Measure
this dot
in one dart
of
on dot on Semi-
Fit
Ninety-seven
in
From your
Waist Line.
measure
in one-half of
From
3 on dot and
down seven
On
draw
up
On
in point
in point
seam
into one-half.
Take your
5 of
one-quarter out point and draw the curve of your dart up to the division
point on the shoulder seam.
curve.
Make
same
Square and dot seven inches below your dart and measure out on
Draw from
down
different sections.
Two
(tightly).
Pin down
on your material or
dart tightly
As you do
a regular
Kimona.
under
Cut
and Front
is
to the Silhouette
cess Block.
cut the
is
Center Back.
of the
Round
From
up on
dot.
side
seam four
inches,
Make
Knot or
Bow
Make
sash that
ties
up
it
for the
French
Knot about
3 inch strip.
8 inches wide.
until
fits
onto end of
of an extension of 6 inches
on the
strip.
v\rith
the
it
from Back.
fill
You may
or sash and
in cut
Ninety-eight
Semi-Circular Skirt
Take your regular Semi-Fit Sprung Block.
bottom up
to the Semi-Fit
Waist Line.
To
Or you
may
just
open and pin down onto another piece of paper, spreading one
new
Block.
Back
is
as the front.
Frill:
Draw Line
is
seven
inches down.
draw
line
down
to line
(Top
of Skirt Line).
At the
draw
Cut
down
it
this
frill off
as
it
sets better
by cutting
back.
Back
frill is
Studio Model
of
made up
of
in double cording of
Ninety-nine
riri
One hundred
Lines in
Lines in
design.
Name
Only
Butterfly
Name Only
lines of
Kimona
skirt panels are essentially of
We
The flowing
Butterfly origin.
There are
modern improvements,
and
silk
In
all
name
of this silhouette
in flight.
Butterfly because
In this Model
is
only
all
its
beautiful
The Designer
Kimona
become
These Lines
in
Name Only
often
In other
we have
in definition
"Long
narrow
light boat".
The neck
line is long
still
and
Modeling
Use your Regular Drop Shoulder Night Gown Block.
making same (Back and Front) you
grams.
will find in the
The Rules
for
Do
Take your Regular Drop Shoulder Night Gown Block and place on the
fold of the material or paper.
The length
of the sleeve
is
obtained by measis
The
24
From
off of
20 inches).
Gown
down
shoulder dot.
point under the
Curve from
this
arm
to
Waist Line.
seam
and waist
below, dot.
of width.
Draw
in to
about half
Open
The
fold panel
is
From Sketch
it
measures 2/3
on the
center of shoulder.
One and
Side
Seam with
Each
folds back, so
The panel
to fold edge.
Open and
insert
By drawing
open and
side.
Two
The Medallions
that is
proportioned as follows:
drawn
For
in thirds
is
doubled
when
is
transferred in inches.
The width
of the streamers
when
transferred
doubled.
The Sleeve
is
The Measurements
line extending one-
on Chest
from shoulder.
Width
Length 30
is
for
The
Skirt portion
connected on the
times.
which
is
a Regular Straight
is
The arm-hole
made about
l^^
of
to-
Cut same
off at the
Make bottom
Put back
of the Butterfly
of the
Kimona executed
the same.
Chemise
Slip
The Model
is
made
of Satin
Raglan Sleeves
Artisans of Combining Blocks or Patterns are those skilled in putting
together the Mechanical Blocks for the different Designs.
The Kimona
Sleeve
is
Art in designing.
make another
block.
Body
of the Coat
are constructed.
Modeling
Use your Regular Kimona Block (Unsprung).
Open
flat.
Same
Wrist
Draw
arm seam
to
elbow
same.
line is the
On
the neck line toward the center front measure V/i inches toward center
1
back
inch.
Draw
line
You
One can be
On
the
the three.
is
On
Sketch the
Straight
used.
The Bottom
for
fullness
sprung.
Three springs
one inch
at
to elbow.
Place the Line of the set in portion and spring only to that point for fullness.
You may
Model
spring through in
is
some instances
if
you want
this is
As
an unusually Circular
sprung
7 times
from
is
side
seam
to center back.
Making
14 springs
across back.
The Front
on
if
You may
fullness.
When
on
Add about
1^
extension in front
(/a/)).
One
huntdred five
The
Collar
is
a bias fold
made with
slot to thread
is
end through.
Its
The Cuff
is
applied.
width
is
half
10 inches in width at
at top,
The Model
is
made
and
One hundred
six
or tUiiviA, uv enj0>u-
hundred
cigl't
Decoration of Line
In Decoration of Line Beauty comes
first.
Its artistic
It
is
Dress.
Most cases
value
is
important.
It is
Line composition
to
an error
ornamentation and
mixed
you have
a design.
Some
The
the simplest.
it
A gown may
come from
the applica-
tion
proportion.
The
Modand
This Design
an example
of fineness
simplicity.
The
gracefully are
more
Beauty of proportion
For instance,
in this
of
same degree
One
Decoration of Line
of
back to shoulder.
Modeling
Take your regular unsprung Kimona Chemise.
one inch
off of front
line take
of material or paper.
One one
inch
For
springing.
Add one
spring at Normal Waist Line, also one one inch above and one
Taper
to a point one-
The neck
is
Make
Do
Start roll of
lace 4 inches wide
at
continue around
with drop Center Front IJ^ inches, opposite side 2 inches, Center Back 1^2
inches.
The width
Very
Put
and chiffon
is 2^/^
or 3
inches.
effective is a gathering
in the
same
Lace
and
bottom.
same width
as the
roll.
2^
yards.
Drapted three
Keep
lace even at
bottom by
lifting
lace to shoulder
The
made up
in
shirring at top
was used on one Model and Harem Roll on other (Lace and
lined in brilliants
on the
other.
Japanese Kimona
Take Regular Chemise Kimona, make length
floor.
on
Add
by
and
six inches
up and curve
Add
three
fullness
half
springing.
on right side
Draw your
springs up to your shoulder seam, slightly curve the line from Chest Line
up.
Open and
half inch
on Shoulder Seam.
thirds
and
open and
Sleeve width
is
Seam.
wrist line dot, one-half on each side dot, open and spring
is
cut Surplice.
One
Back
is
same
Collar
is
One hundred
ten
Descendency of Line
Descendency
of
Line
is
a line
making
days of our
day designing.
A
again.
brought out
in use again.
of Transmitting Lines
is
shown
most up
of
to date frock.
is
Descendency
a subject.
Line
Drop Yoke.
Your
creative composition
must express
originality, introduc-
build around
it.
In the Design given the ornamentation has been carried out in ribbon trim-
ming which
is
floral
flat
bows.
The
New, imparting
are Old
to the
Wearer
While
thte
Wearer
a Quaintness of Style.
Modeling
Take your Regular Chemise Kimona Block (Sprung) and
into a
transfer
it
See Lingerie.
Yoke drops 4
inches then
The lower
Take one inch
of yoke, to Yoke.
on fold
of material or paper.
which
is
The
The
slot for
3^ in width,
Y/^
for
^ for back.
Back
of
For fullness divide and spring six times, one inch springs.
is
Block
folded in
same manner.
In the Panels, put Front and Back together and cut in one piece.
One hundred
thirteen
French Lingerie
Lingerie has taken
cultured taste.
its
wonted place
Lady
of
The Designs
but
A
ers,
all
of
them charmingly
of the
fashioned of
heavy
silks
and crepe
de chine.
Some
more
made
of the
and
satins.
some
others daintilyf
trimmed with
that
is
Lingerie Sets always find the same daintiness with the light silky
materials.
Crepe de Chine and Voile de Soie are mostly preferred, being so practical
Filet or
broidery or
many
other fancies.
woman demands
various shades: blue, mauve, yellow, and specially the roses, from the
The Designs
many
for
Also Bridal Sets of white crepe de chine with insets of Filet Me-
dallions
effective.
diff-
For
owing
to the sheer-
ness of Dresses.
Naturally this
coat Combinations.
Lingerie
is
of Oils
One hundred
fifteen
I STEP-1N%.
OPAf.
a CCMB/VAt/Om,
y BNVtLOTlS.
One
liundrcd sixteen
Lingerie
1.
Step-Ins.
Take
Then
Measure
out from point under the arm one inch and from Chemise Waist Line two
inches.
Draw from
that point
down through
bottom
This
the
at
Chemise
to the
fold.
is
From
two inches
is
in, dot.
material or paper
The Crotch
left
is
closed.
Step
Seam being
is
raised
for Seat)
down
to Side
Seam
Lines.
an open
diagram.
Modeling
1.
The Model
Block.
is
of
The
side
Seam
opened
5 inches
is
From
the 2
Lace
is
inserted in this
At the
bow
ties
On
Front.
Measure
The Length
of the Shirt is
14 inches).
Draw Line
off at
at the
bottom straight
Yokes,
etc. are
across.
The
Chest Line.
added as trim-
at
Chemise Waist
the
is
Fullness
vide on
into one-
half, dot,
then on each side of this line divide into one-half, dot, making three
all.
springs in
lines
Draw
lines
and
nothing.
Back.
(B).
14 inches
Measure down
in
Center Back.
is
Draw
At
optional.
the Chemise Waist Line measure out two inches for your side seam, dot,
from under the arm draw down through the two inch point and then down
to the length line.
For
dot,
Making
three springs in
all.
Draw
lines
from points
to Chest Line.
Open and
Drav/ers
(AV
caused by bringing
Use
the bottom part of the Regular Block (Peplum) for the Drawers.
little
projection (this
is
your y^ dart
in,
Put
this
14 inches.
From
Waist Line
about
1^
inches out.
On
measure down 4 or 6
From
the Waist Line (Tight) measure out one inch for side seam.
From
that point
draw down
to
bottom
line
line.
For
3 of
Red Curve on
on bottom
draw
For
fullness
on each
in
all.
From
these points
draw
lines
up
to waist line,
optional, also
if
you wish an
elastic
make
Back.
(Drawers B).
Use
the
Peplum
of the
Back Block.
There
is
down
14 inches
One hundred
eighteen
straight line
from
4 or
Waist Line.
6 inches.
down
From
draw down
to this point.
tom
line.
From
the Tight Waist Line measure out one inch for side seam,
seven inches
From
bottom
on each side
of this dot.
Making
three springs in
open and
If
you wish
around waist and fullness send one inch springs clear through.
top of waist line extra for slot to thread elastic through.
to Seat Springs.
Also add on
attention
Turn your
into one-half.
Below
Make
length of
Open and
insert
Red
If
you
desire fullness
it
is
Model
off at
Waist Line
of Drawers.
Cut a Bias
Band one
and draw
inch wide.
elastic through.
Modeling
2.
The Material
is
Crepe Georgette.
The springing
is
is
of the
Chemise Shirt
linen.
The Yoke
embroidered
Drafted
Picot
The bottom
part of garment
slots are
strips inserted.
One
at Center Front.
The
to waist line
enough added
for elastic
is
back and
elastic
threaded through.
the
same.
3
Teddy
Bears.
Front A.
One hundred
nineteen
Draw bottom
two
Chest Line.
inches.
line.
line over
inches,
draw across
to points.
off at
Measthat
From
down
line.
seam
line
bottom
and
in
all.
Draw
bottom
up
to Chest Line,
at
and tapering up
to nothing.
elastic
with fullness
Back
(B).
of Regular Block
on edge
of material or paper.
Measure
down
For
14 inches
for Crotch.
line
Measure up on Center
inches,
two
draw
to points. dot,
at
from
under the arm (Chest Line) draw down through the two inch point to
bottom
line.
For
fullness divide
on
Making
Draw
up from these
up
to nothing.
If
Back Line
into
Waist Line.
From
Draw
Two
make
spring.
Three springs
in
all.
Open and
Cut a straight
Sew
Modeling
3.
The
Material of the
Teddy Bear
inserted.
is
of
Crepe Georgette.
Filet Medallions
of Butterfly
Design
is
These can be
either in the
same ma-
The Studio
in
Butterflies.
The
three ruffles
were
the
same
The
Prim-
Pajamas.
Coat (A).
Make
The end
point, (curve
neck around).
The
length
of the sleeve
The length
of coat
measures
line at that
point across.
and
into one-half
on each
side.
Draw up
to point
Open and
spring by
Back.
Coat (B).
Point the shoulder seam at the sleeve edge and deduct the inch at the
top.
Neck opening
will be at
(match same
Add one
The length
is
three
full-
line across.
For
ness divide the bottom line into one-half dot, then one-half on each, side,
in
all.
Draw
lines
up to points above.
Chest Line.
Open and
insert springs
is
The Coat
made
Pants (A).
14
The
Side
in
Seam
is
the
same
Make
if
34 inches
is
Measure
6%
inches (or
more
wider leg
preferred) dot.
6^/^
inch point
on bottom
line.
Red Curve on
If
inches down.
When
Waist Line.
Side
Seam
make
(or
34 inches long.
On
leg
bottom
is
line
measure over
6^
seam
more
if
wider
preferred).
From
that point
draw up
For Seat
Below
Vq,
again dot.
Draw
Add
a spring two inches above and two inches below, making three
springs.
inch taper-
ing to nothing.
fullness
Draw
lines
down
about
7 inches,
If fullness is
added cut
Waist Line.
stitch
elastic through.
Modeling
4.
The Model
is
made
of
in
The
initials are
Coat.
On
Side
Seam Line
of
3 inches
Width
Waist Line.
Block.
line.
The Width
of the
Coat
side
seam and
line
and draw
in length.
Back
is
Pants.
For width
Measure up from
is
Strip point 4
make width ^4
of
an
inch.
Tie
6 inches long.
Back
is
done
the same.
is
put on an
elastic.
5 Envelopes.
Front (A).
As
Chest Line measure out one inch and dot under the arm and two inches at
dot.
the
Draw from
Center Front.
half
then one
on each
side.
From
draw
straight lines
to nothing.
up open and
If
bottom tapering up
do
is
you want
you have
to
to send
Back (B).
Measure out from Chemise Waist Line on Regular Block two inches
dot.
From under
the
dowm
14 inches
Seat.
Below
that point into J4 again, dot, place spring, spring two inches above
of block.
For
fullness at
on each
side dot,
draw
lines
If
you want
fullness at
For
strap.
strip
There
(Cross
and attach
Modeling
5.
The Model
is
made
of Voile de Sole
and Lace.
Color of material
is
Front (A).
off of the front.
Place
1^
Draw Line
Cut
off at
On
Side
Seam put
two
1/2
inch Darts.
These darts
will
draw same
in
Figure Fitting.
Back (B).
Top
of
Back with a
half inch
band
finished, stitch
On
left side
One hundred
twenty-three
cofniiMfTin'i
Modeling
6.
The Model
center front.
7
is
made up
in Satin
(A)
of the
for the
Top
it
portion
a straight neck so
we
will turn
back one
inch in the front to the Waist Line, pinch up one inch on shoulder, add also
tip of shoulder,
draw
pit or
pit.
Chest Line
In making
two
inches.
The length
from arm
1^
inches
and curve.
(B)
the top of
Button hole
on shoulder for
tie
as shoulder
seam opens.
Back.
Tip the sleeve so that you can take the one inch off on the neck as this is a straight line neck. Do not forget to add the
The Length
of Yoke, Sleeve
is
the
same
as the Front.
slot in the
on shoulder.
wide and about 38 inches
Modeling
7.
Yoke
is
of
8 Brassieres.
Evenly placed
Open and
and one one inch above and one one inch below.
ing one inch tapering to nothing.
in width.
Open and
spring by spread7
or 8 inches
straight across
One hundred
twenty-five
Modeling
8.
The
Brassiere
is
made
of 7 inch
bound
in.
(A).
Waist Line.
On
side
Bust
1^
1
Then draw
line straight
seam
Make curved
line.
Back (B).
Measure lYz
inch below.
Draw
and bottom.
For the
38 inches long.
Modeling
9.
The
points;
is
silk.
The edge
on each point
is
inserted a Heart
MedaUion
of Filet.
French
Bouquet
10
on
left side of
Bodice.
Front (A).
turn back one inch in front, pinch in one inch on shoulder seam, and add
and draw
in the
Shoulder Curve to the actual length of the shoulder (S^^), then take the Blue
in a
Take
5 of
Red Curve
of Shoulder
to the
End
of Shoulder
Divide into one-half dot, then two inches above and two inches below
all.
Slant the
first
spring
way
in the width.
Open and
To add
fullness in the
Body
on the
One hundred
tiventy-six
bottom
Then on
Making
three springs in
all.
Draw
straight lines
in the
up
to
up put
Open and
insert
Back (B).
On
1
the Original
Block be sure you have followed the rules for the Straight Neck.
inch under the arm.
in the Shoulder
Add your
Curve
Take
5 of
Red
in side slant
is
of Shoulder
The Springing
Modeling
10.
The Material
of the
Night
Gown
is of
Crepe de Chine.
Shadow Lace
is
is
Ribbon
threaded
and
tied in
bows
in the
diamond shapes
in lace.
On
shoulder wreaths of
roses are rnade of the crepe de chine and small black ribbon.
is tied
Around waist
11.
Burkes.
Front (A).
down
paper.
14 inches
The
14 inch point
Draw
Make
a straight line
down
On
Draw from
this point
up
to Crotch.
Add
3 inches
more
for fullness at
Draw bottom
line.
From
8%
inches and
draw from
this point
up to the
Fit Block.
Back (B).
Straight Necks.
Line down 14 inches from your Chemise Waist Line for point of Crotch.
this
Open and
insert
one
Draw
this
Straight Line
down from
and from
this point
draw up
to Crotch.
The Length
same as the
Front.
From
8^
and from
Block.
this point
draw up
to the 7 inches
down
Modeling
11.
Use Block
in front,
which
2 inches over
Divide line from Neck Line into 4 equal parts and add the points.
Also
on Bust Line.
On
down
The
down
a false
away put
Make
is
The Back
The
On
Burke
is
of
The
of
another color.
The edges
Bodice (A).
and draw up
to Chest
Under
to
Arm
Draw from
this point
down
Waist Line.
Make
One hundred
twenty-eight
below Chest Line, and about one inch around arm hole
under the arm.
to about Yi inch
Back (B).
The Back
is
Make
Take Regular
Then draw
Opposite
down
draw up
to Crotch point.
From
down
2 inches and
If
may add
points
Fullness
optional.
For regular
your bottom
dot.
From
these
draw
up to waist.
Open and
tapering up to nothing.
Back (D).
Take Regular
Divide
from Chemise Waist Line and Crotch into one-hi^f and then one-hnlf again
for Seat.
Draw for
first
and two inches below add spring, taper these springs toward center one.
Three springs
in
all.
Open and
On
Straight Line from Tight Waist Line opposite Crotch po'nt mea'^'-e
4 inches dot, and from this point
down
draw up
to Crotch pomt.
For
len<;^th
like front
From
on straight
line 2 inches.
is
Draw bottom
Add
the Full-
Modeling
12.
The Bodice and Bloomer Combination
Trimming
is
made
Silk.
of
two
materials.
The
Bodice and
Skirt.
is
Only cut
is
off
about
Back
Use Regular
Waist Line
Make about
15 inches
from Chemise
in length.
On bottom
line
on diagram).
On Waist Line
extra fullness
Divide on Waist Line into one-half dot, then on right side into one-half dot.
On
Spring
down about
three
Open and
is
Back (B).
Modeling
13,
The Bodice (Bodice and
The
Skirt
is
Skirt Combination)
is
of
14 Garters.
Ribbon, Elastic, Lace and French Flowers are what Garters are comprised
3/4
of.
Yard
Elastic.
3 yards Ribbon.
IJ/^
yards Lace.
Modeling
14,
Divide Ribbon into four parts and sew two together wrong side and on
each edge.
Then turn
right side
side.
and thread
elastic through.
Add Lace on
One hundred
thirty
One hundred
thirty-two
Lilliputian
Art
Children Clothes
Lilliputian Art in Designing
in Dress" for the
is
Younger Generation.
of the
in smaller sizes.
World enjoy
Grown Ups.
crown
of the
head
Draw
inch.
a perpendicular
Mark
in the 6 inches
space or
forehead.
first
or Second Line
Line
is
C and E
for
Between
is
and
The width
of the neck
of Center Line.
is
The length
The width
of the shoulders is
The
loins of the
Y2 faces across.
is
Waist Line
is
The arm
hole
is
The
proportion of the
pit to the
elbow
the
same
is
as
from the
arm
pit to the
to the wrist
the same.
also,
to the
younger children
In a child
is
would go about
One hundred
thirty-three
MTTeUM fiKAfT
SIX yfiK.
It
sit
^tAh
\t
5>-
Draw
On
Arm
Syce
measurement which
parallel
from
this dot
From your
first
dot on Line
One measure
on
5 inches,
At each one
4, 5
of these dota
6; betweien
draw perpendicular
lines to
and
from
first
Dot
5^
From
inch.
this point
draw short
line in.
Measure
in 1^4 inches
of
and up J4
first
o^
^^
Take Red
in the
Back
Neck.
Between
dot on Line
One and
Back divide
into
dot,
draw
line across to
on Back
and J4
of
o^f
3n inch beyond.
(Face
Down)
of
dot on Line
One
to
End
of Shoulder
it
Seam
Back Yoke).
11 inches.
Take
this
on
(The Pitch
Take
in Slant of Shoulder.
Take
IJ/^
inches
C and
7.
dot on Line
of
and draw
Front
Then
take
in
arm
and place
Line
7.
1^
amount
rest
on Line 6 and
draw
One hundred
thirty-five
6 Yr.
8 Yr.
10 Yr. 12 Yr.
9]/^
Arm
Syce
8
10
9
11
lOJ/1
Pitch of Shoulder
9
4i/^
11^
5J4
izy.
6
11
Width
of
Back
4
7
4^
8]^
131^
Cont. Measure
8
13
10^
16 16
Chest
12 of Front
HJ^
14
17
Length Waist
11^
20
12^
13^
24^^
18
22^
lOH
13
25^
12 16
5
28
30
13
Neck
Length
of Skirt
9%
11
IIH 14^
5
12^
20
6
23
Rise of Back
Sleeve to
4^
6
5
Elbow
Wrist
4^ 6^
6
6?4
10
Elbow
to
7^ 6^
1^
9^
8
6^
1^
dot,
9
IJ^
Back Neck
Between
IJ^
1^
1^
from
this point
draw
straight Line
down
to indefinite length.
measure and take ly^ inches out and place on dot on Line
and continue
down and
Line, dot.
is
15 inches,
on Center Front
From
this point
Back.
dot,
On
down
17 inches
one inch
dot.
Then draw
to opposite sides.
necessary in separating
pattern to either trace off Back or Front of draft as the Skirt of the Patterri
overlaps.
You may
J/^
on each
Draw
lines straight
insert spring
one inch
at
Modeling
1.
to
make
seam
Line
Take
this
in Front.
Then look
Yz of the
Waist
One hundred
thirty-six
From
Line.
Lay
this
The Back
cut the
As
the AKladi Models, the rules for the Children's Clothes are done likewise, the difference being smaller thirds. the neck.
thirds of the
width of
The neck
The amount
in thirds are
transferred
by inches
Lay
off in thirds
on sketch transferred
tip up,
to inches
on pattern.
Measure;
1^
thirds
from shoulder
thirds
1^
inches on pattern.
transferred.
From
point of neck
down 2^4
is
The
is
thirds transferred
3 inches.
Under arm
The
arm
hole.
The width
is
made from
thirds
With
extension of two-
The end
is
The Back
Skirt:
line.
same way.
Take
Make knee
length.
Draw
same
of
deeper shades.
small
2.
bow
at waist.
transfer into a
Kimona Block
in
drop
Gown
Block in
the,
Lingerie.
Put
at neck point,
draw
in length of shoulder
A%
line 4 inches
down.
Take
5 of
draw curve up
to shoulder point.
Same
For width
of
1%
Draw
Measure) on shoulder
One hundred
thirty-seven
down
4 inches on shoulder
is
seam
dot,
line of yoke.
The back
Panel (this
is
The width
of
of the
Panel
to
is 2
The
yoke
hem.
The
4 inches
below waist
Do
not draft
flat
plaits in pattern
but fold them in the material to the size and then put the
Skirt.
Separate the skirt portion from the Block and spring from the
Bottom up
five times.
The Back
of
is
Panel and
skirt.
the
Around the
skirt
two rows
plaits.
Red
cherries
The
To
so
measure down on
better to take
same on
children's.)
Then from
Draw from
that line
up
to waist.
From
draw
that
line.
line.
into one-half.
Measure
to waist
draw from
that dot
up
inch
more; instead
the
measure 10^
desired.
for crotch.
If
you
amount where
it is
is
put on an
elastic
waist
legs.
Take your Regular Kimona Block and prepare same Take one inch
off of the front
line neck.
or paper.
Pinch out on center of shoulder a one-inch dart and add one inch
point
is
Back
Match
the edge
of
your sleeve and run shoulder seams together then pinch out one inch at
measure out
2 inches.
Draw
line
down
draw
Two
end
of Blouse.
Two
is 5
Then from
this dot,
The loop
One hundred
thirty-eight
line,
making
inches added.
As
it
extends 5 inches below the skirt hem, the added amount would be 12
inches.
The Blouse
is
is
front.
The Back
Panel
is
The
The
same way.
The Model
is
The Model
white.
is
The
The embroidery
of the
Blue Bells
sizes
fold
1
inch
down
center front.
Draw
in neck line.
Measure up
2 inches
from
elbow.
shoulder
tied
Make curved
make button
One
inch
down on
is
The same
Spring up three
Back
is
The
Skirt
is
sprung 14 times.
made
narrow ribbon.
this ribbon
in silk floss.
Sailor
Boy:
The
Block
dot.
first will
on
From
1%
inches or more.
of the child.
From
this point
draw up
to the waist
line.
On waist
From
Con-
line
down
hip.
to this point
on
left side.
From
and
this point
draw a
line
on
On
right
left side
I^
inches and
One hundred
fhirty-nine
One hundred
forty
up to the knee.
Open and
spring two
desired.
it is
The Back
in the
is
inch longer
measurement
This
all
springing.
To
and between
this
Add
And
Open
and
Open
line
down from
and center
flap
way between
line.
Put
can button
underneath.
And on
can
fly
Blouse
Add two
Draw
line
to under the
arm.
Cut
Use
the
same
inchi
The
Sailor Collar
is
shoulders, then adding the curve of the neck and side neck. sion in back of 6 inches.
With an
exten-
The
measured by secur-
V and
Add an
extra inch
around neck
line.
is
collar on.
The
sleeve
by putting back
to back,
The
cuff
if
of
Blue Worsted.
6.
The Tie
and we
of Red.
will draft
the blouse
On
shoulder measure
down one
inch from neck point and with a Yz inch extension beyond end of
shoulder seam.
Put
is
a large
arm hole
familiar to a
2 inches for
From
down
Back is done same with the exception you do not add the one inch under the arm.
Sleeve
:
draft a sleeve as
you would a
Grown
Up's.
make
Grown Ups.
wrist band.
to the
Secure the length of the wrist band by measuring the child's wrist
desired.
amount
The
cuff of our
6 inches in length
1
and
3 inches in
Round
inch
proportions.
The
back and
The Front
piece
is
1^
a
added afterwards.
Pants
:
2 inches
it is
below the
to
chest.
good plan
measure and
the.
If it is a regulation size
will
measure
Draw line up to the waist line and down to the knee: For width around the knee measure the Model or take regulation size, which
is
is
draw up
to waist line.
measured, take
and
extension desired.
The Back
inch
inch in width.
of
Pongee
of
The
The Pants
Navy Blue
velvet
is
stitched in red.
Take your regular Kimona Block and reduce the Body part
Proceed to do
this as
is
to a
for a
Tight Bodice.
Tight Bodice.
After the same
The only
is
difference
Wi
Add one
The
Kimona
in center of Sleeve.
The Back
is
Skirt of Coat
skirt block
inch.
is
The
One hundred
forty-lhree
Back
is
The bottom
is
banded in
fur.
Cape
shoulder.
Model
to
The
is
length
As
the
Model
line.
The
was
of white
American Broadtail.
:
in
any
size,
Put on piece
of
an
Sketch in
new
arm
Draw
Side
point.
Seam
As
the
Model
is
double breasted,
it is
Extend
below Line One about an inch and a half and from that point trace directly
up to neck
line.
is
folded imder
collar.
line,
When
measure up one inch and draw down to about one-half inch above center
front line.
Then draw a
line.
amount
will
vary) to neck
For
about 8 inches
long or that amount sufficient for a collar smd place on the front so the edges
will
match up.
You
will also
have to even
off
is
treated the
same
for a coat,
it
Woman.
draft your
This Model was made up in Camel's Hair Material of a light tan shade.
9.
the
same as the
Number
2.
your regular Kimona Block and spring 15 times. Then measure down on the
shoulder seam and center front in inches where your
One hundred
forty-four
fit
on properly.
The
fullness
you
will
have extra from the regular Kimona Block gather up onto your
drop yoke.
Top
portion to
down
65^ inches on Center front line and from this point measure out
1^
inches, dot.
Draw
line
if
up
to waist line
and a
line
down
to the knee.
Make
you want
good
size puff.
draw
This
is all
The Back
is
Make
on
elastic
throughout by hand
Apply
straight neck
of
For position
neck line
in
2^/i
or Z inches and
of the
1^
is
in front
and draw
The length
is
Model
normal waist
line.
The springing
The
optional.
The length
The
be produced by putting
Then
and cut
out.
That
Use
seam
of block.
Kimona
Block, allowing
The length
of
same
is
half
Line.
in
in
Monkey
One hundred
forfy-fivg
iKRTi
JUMPff.
SLfrn
itmr-CArt CfBii'TiOM.
One hundred
forty-six
Country wear.
The
Town
a real
itself,
mannish
simplicity.
of
The Art
is
The Ward-
Knickers.
2.
3.
Sports Jumper.
4.
A A
Skirt that
is
Exhibition No.
The
Model
displays
the
Jumper
and
Knicker
combination.
Exhibition No.
2.
The Model
The Model
combination.
ExJhibition No.
3.
now
converted into a
for
Outdoor
Life.
And
in
Modeling
1.
Knickers.
lines
down
26 inches
Do
not Spring.
and measure down on a straight Center Front Line 14 inches for the crotch
dot.
Measure out
either 2 inches or
whatever extension
is
needed in the
Model.
From
line
On
the
bottom
(which
From
this point
measure
Here
it is
inches dot.
From
these two
dots on the bottom line measure up 4 inches for the tight part of the knickers
dot.
Draw
lines
up
From
From
On
measure
Or
may be added
in
by
free
hand drawing.
side.
Draw
line
on the right
On Normal
into one-half
Waist Line between Center Front and Side Seam Line divide
dot.
At
this point
mark
for a dart.
darts (smaller
in size)
on each
side.
The Back
the seat.
is
Divide between waist line and crotch point into one-half dot, then
At
i/^
width in and
The
4-inch point
is
On
of the measure-
ment
same
as the front.
Back
Build same on a
If
1^
inch Belt.
you wish
to
3 inches over
Draw
seam
2-inch line.
Measure 2^4
inches
down from
seam point on
side
line.
Draw
Also cut the separate extra piece for the pocket with an extension that
line of the pocket.
Add your
belt straps or
Add
One
side
make double
2.
Sports Jumper.
Silhouette
bottom
line
Add
The Flap
made by measuring
line
2 inches over
On Neck
you
From
this point
draw a
line
down
to dot
on Chest Line.
it
When
will
a line
is
cut open
will
othfer line
on waist
line dot.
dot.
One hundred
forty-eight
Draw
Then measure
Draw
this point.
The Sleeve
is
Making about
arm
hole.
Measure the
collar
Draw
of the
neck meas-
urement at
Draw
At
At
this point
measure
this point to
is
line of
There
no spring-
diagram.
Silhouette Lines.
Make same
half
15 inches in length
Measure in one
Extend each side
is
the shirt.
Negligee shirts have yokes, so take your regular working block and
raise the shoulder
seam
on top
of the shoulder.
This
point
dot.
is
From
this
line
draw seam
From
this point
draw
up to neck
line.
straight
down one
inch dot.
Yz in
line
dot.
line
Draw
from
On
On
neck
line
Draw
line
arm
hole dot.
Trace
Body
is
The
This
is
Sleeve
seam transferred
to
One
will
become
straight.
Take
the under
arm
piece
and cut directly down the center and place each piece in regular formation on
each side of the top block.
around.
side; of
One hundred
forty-nine
Measure up
3 inches
As
"^
Cuffs:
Measure up
is
draw a
is 3
line
up
to that amount.
This cuff
makes
Round
the top
c'orners to
clear through.
Soft Collar:
with an
The
height of the
band
is 1^/2
inches.
other.
The
collar*
portion slants from the one inch point in on top of neck band.
The width on
13/^
inches.
Sew
the collar
Skirt.
Which
is
lines of
a skirt
Make
Make about
The
Make
is only-
snapped together.
The
skirt is
pieces
was made
of
Henna
colored Tweed.
One hundred
fifty
One hundred
fifty-two
Fads
Fads
cular
in Fashion
in
Circular Capes
in
of different
The
Fashion.
one
Fads in
has
made
its
The
Hang and
Drape.
The new
ideas
come
Yokes and
For material
pendulum
effect, or
an idea that
is
Body
part, or
Bands
is
Modeling
Three Piece Back
Capes).
(to
of
Measure down on
dot.
of dot,
an inch
Draw
in
On
place
B on
Take your
in
on the two
on short
line
and draw
your
Make
Line up to center
line of
From
the
down
to
down
From
two inches
mark on arm
to
hole.
left
your
One hundred
fifty-three
the;
2 inch dart.
directly
below that
down
4 inches dot.
From
down
Draw
down
to that
Under each
on short
line,
measure down 4
Then draw
to opposite dots.
On
down and
dot 4 inches.
Draw from
You can
the
inch dot
down
to that dot.
Now
inches
Under
Arm
the
piece, Side
2J/^
also understand
is
now where
To
Circular Cape
For a Circular Cape take your Regular Working Block and your 3 piece
back.
Be sure
that
you have a
large
enough piece
of material or paper to
work
in center
and up
As near
is
possible, keep
your
At
From
and
dot.
At
and
your Under
Arm
Piece,
Under
and
Arm
Piece measiure six inches and dot, then measure six inches
six inches
if
dot,
more and
dot,
making
18 inches separation.
At
The
separation in
alter.
Arm
In the length always take the length from the Waist Line and measure
down
in inches
Normal Waist Line measure up on Center Front two inches and measure
down from
The
that point
Military Cape
Take your regular Front Working Block and your Three Piece Back.
Place same on material or paper in the same manner but separatei in divi-
One hundred
fifty-four
sions of 3 inches.
In placing together
in the
it
will
make a
dart
on the shoulder.
The
length
is
made
Number One
The
or Military Cape
side.
is all
More
desirable
Model
to cut with
a better advantage.
first
Model
cut in one.
You must
allow about 21
neck
is
2 inches
From
this
6 inches.
Draw
a straight Une
five inches
collar.
Cut on neck
As
the upper
portion goes around the neck doubled for the collar and the lower portion
for the cape
and cascade.
Direjctly
Add
Draw from
point up to shoulder
down about
seam
and fold
The
made
of Satin
Faced Crepe.
The, color
was black
Number Two
Circular
line
or Circular Cape:
Cape Block.
The
Shirring
is
piece.
an inch
Trim
The
side
Collar
drafted
Draw
into one-half.
Measure 2 inches up at
end points.
Draw
Measure up
in center
of the collar.
Draw
extend beyond the end perpendicular lines about the same amount as
From
line.
The
made
of
Lined in
Same
is
One hundred
fifty-five
Yoke Models
Yokes can be drafted
off of the Military
Cape Block
in
may
spring the cape of the Military Block from the top dowrt
effect.
The number
of springs accord-
amount
of fullness desired.
Yokes may
also be drafted
One hundred
fifty-six
Pft rersKixr.
JtUii/AH TILCVll
One hundred
fifty-eight
(Young
Girls)
This
is
found readily in the Linear and Aerial adaption of Lines in Misses' Dresses.
Intermediate Ages can either take the Linear Lines with the Straight
and Slenderizing
effects.
Or
Independent of Line
materials.
we have
made
and
silver
We
can recall
when we had
com-
Jeune
wrong impression
is
Psychology
Line to be vice-versa.
its
It is
mixed
lines
department in Designing.
Each having
own
Consumer.
wardrobe.
In the creation using Linear Lines use your Line Technique in Junior
adaption (modify your line to become the Misses' Tjrpe).
While
in the Aerial
effects the
made over
This
is
befitting
in line to the
Young
Type (Jeune
Modeling
The Model
Kimona
either can be
made up with
The
effect.
Illustration
One hundred
fifty-nine
for
your silhouette
line
.dot.
Draw from
arm down
through
Line.
6 inches
Then add
For
add 3
to 4
in the Regulation
Back
is
The Neck on
Line,
is 3
Model
is
3 inches
And
Kimona
Sleeve
The
inserted
From
this point
draw
line
up to
circular
neck
The
Illustrated
Model
is
made upon
Neck
Kimona Blouse
is
Line.
The extension
is
of
Blouse
6 inches
The
Fullness
Back
is
the same.
Sleeve:
of the
Kimona
Sleeve.
Draw
the length.
Kimona
BoufFant Skirt:
The
outside skirt
is
made
of
two widths
of material 40
The same
on the
is
Put most
of the fullness
sides.
The
length to
The
pin tucks in
Which
is
made
hem.
Which
extends about
3/^
Measure about
dot,
from
this point
measure distance
edge of
of the facing.
Divide the width of the Front and Back into thirds, dot.
of the Pin
Place the
shapes
Arranging about 4 or 6
One hundred
sixty
in facing
and hemstitched
And
the Studio
Back
is
pro-
duced
in the
same manner.
The Bodice
of the underslip is
made from
the
2 inches at
at
Draw from
For fullness
If
The Bodice
is
not tight
Add Shoulder
Straps of ribbon.
Drape on
Back
is
produced
Skirts:
in the
same manner.
Skirt Block that has been sprung three
3/^
Peg Top
Take regular
of the length
skirt rather
down.
Back
If
is
done
narrow.
you
desire
more
the length.
Cut same,
off at the
been added.
The
made with
One hundred
sixty-one
Ow
hundred sixiy-two
and
ultra smart in
Models
of artistic simplicity
The Lines
of a Tailored
Model should be
In designing, the Designer should create his Line to pertain to the useful
arts.
of
Adornment
The
have for
lines that
It is the
practical.
Woman.
in designing Tailored
Heights
is
employed
Costumes
your
grade of heights.
stop
make
just
below another
up under
this line.
Or properly
on
all
connect your
The
points or lines
maybe more
or less intermingled
That
is,
make
Or
by proportions.
It is in this
way
that
you
your Model.
profile of
your Model
irregularities of line.
into consideration
your Divi-
which are: Chest Line, Bust Line, Waist Line, Top of Limbs
Line,
End
of
Knee Cap
Lines,
Elbow
Linee, Line
Line.
Also the Neck Line, Edge of Sleeve Line and Edge of Skirt Line.
Select your
of
your Divisional
Line,
is
Be exceedingly
lines so
you
Altitude of Line
creating Line
by elevation on graduated
circles.
By
lines.
means
One hundred
sixty-three
The angles
graduated
circle.
of the
For example,
make
same
sizes.
refract or
The
above or below your grade line must be applied with correctness of curve
and distance.
same guidance
as in the Heights o
One hundred
sixty -four
jtitere,
I
st/ui-rinT COAT
oomak
Cue hundred
sixty six
Modeling
1.
Straight Jacket.
Take the regular working block and place on the edge of your Measure out one inch material or paper. Place in a straight shoulder seam. Draw from dot the arm and three inches at the Chemise Waist Line.
Front:
under
As same
is
a Coat Block
Then add
Arm
Hole.
Add
It is also correct in
Coat Block
original inch for extra width to add one inch in addition to the
from Block.
The
Arm
Hole.
It all
depends upon
the Design.
a
Kimona
Sleeve
is desired.
Kimona
Back:
Sleeve Block.
Take your regular working block and proceed the same as Front.
it
With
is
Regulation 3 times.
Sleeve :
Rules for drafting sleeve with the seam under the arm.
size.
Measure
arm
Take Top
of sleeve
Place Line
One
Take Under
Arm
Then
take
Top Portion
Top
Portion.
After
Block
Collar:
line of Jacket.
Draw
a line to that
amount.
Width
Draw
1^
Separate
sides,
take lower portion of block and on Chemise Waist Line divide between
Between
this point
and
Seam add
3 extra springs
In placing
of
Model together
on the
sides.
One hundred
sixty-seven
line.
makes pinched
in the
Back
is
produced
same manner.
of
Henna
piquetine.
With
Costume
of
The
trimming
is
Semi-Tight Coat.
of the material or paper.
this point to Semi-Fit
Add one
Waist Line.
inch,
From
down
to this point.
Draw bottom
line parallel
Make
Waist Line.
The long
from neck
The
is
drafted in the
same manner
Sleeve.
Take regular
For
from Wrist
Elbow.
From
Elbow
Reduce Block
Model
is
below wrist
line.
to wrist point.
in
back
of sleeve
The
is
Measure
line to that
At
1^/2
inches up.
Make
of
From
this point
end
of the
Do
a width of about
one inch.
rules for
fitting of collar.
Same;
Tuxedo
Collar.
Front:
Take regular
is
skirt
block
(unsprung).
Place on material or
in
a surplice block.
on Waist
One hundred
sixty-eight
dot.
From
this point
draw a perpendicular
dot.
line
down
to edge of skirt.
On
this line
From
the end of this line on bottom line measure over 3 inches, dot, and from
this point
draw up
From
make a
On
One
and
springs and turn the folded under portion of your material or paper out.
Cut
Then
folded out.
is
When
the
Model
is
clustered up into
a draped effect.
Beck:
side
seams
Measure over
Draw
Trace
off
There
a side
is
seam on right-hand
side only.
it
On
under, a garter
attached, so,
when worn,
The Jacket
of the Studio
Duchesse Satin
collar.
The
skirt of
White Broadcloth.
One Darted
Coat.
of the
Front:
material or paper.
Add one
From
this point
draw on
down
to Tight or
place
same
Draw
Back
or Normal
Add
Draw
an inch, dot.
From
this
Slightly curve
of
Waist Line.
Peplum:
From
One hundred
siTty-nine
SL(y{.
O/IJffi
Z7 TINlLy
.
\
VLMTCP iKIXr
ftOMT
oAc/c.
ri
r-t
-^
TT
V,
\
\
TlMH
T STiAI6MT
SiClxr
5TXAI6H T AKHfT.
PACK
r&VP/H TAILenfiCAT.
this point
line.
dot.
Draw
line
up from
down
9 inches, dot.
flares
From
add
this point
draw
line
to side
seam
point.
7 springs.
One
inch at
Back
is
is
bottom
line.
:
little fullness.
Collar
line.
For length
of collar
Draw
Measure up
from
Draw
the collar.
point.
Draw
(Twelve inches).
Draw
lines to the
At
Neck Measurenient).
Draw
edge of the
collar.
Draw
draw
point to the
same
Yz length, dot.
From
this point
line
down
to the ends.
and
times bottom.
Draped
Skirt:
The diagram
is
Not a
pattern.
It
of
it
around the
10 inches
figure.
Easing
About
seam inward.
rows
Sew up
up into about
5 or 6
of shirring.
You may
seams by
It will
line.
Platinum
silk.
The
fox trimming
was
of
Take Regular Kimona Block and measure out 3 inches at the Chemise Waist Line dot. Draw from under the arm down through that point and 4
inches beyond.
effect
If
the
Model
For
rethej
the arm.
lapel of the coat raise one inch in front above neck line
and draw a
add
line to
line.
For
fullness
5 springs.
Russian Blouses are generally made on a Regular Chemise Kimona Lining (unsprung).
Length
to be 4 inches
Back
is
Collar.
Draw
dot.
a line to that
IJ/^
amount
of
measure-
ment.
By same
of
into one-half
and
Measure
up (or back
line.
Draw curved
end of collar
and end
of collars points
dot.
and
At each one
draw
of these dots
From
of the
these points
collar line.
straight lines
down
end points.
Make
This two-inch,
lapel
is also'
cut
is
The
As
the sleeve
is
Kimona
in
Model
to the elbow,
it is
only neces-
blocks (not cut at the elbow) and place upper portion and underneath portion back to back so they will separate 8 inches at the wrist.
Then curve
at
wrist.
Open and
the
Kimona
applied.
This
a
is left
Band.
Band attached
Chemise Lining
and back.
side, front
of the Model.
skirt block
(unsprung).
When
taken for the finely plaited skirt measure on the Chemise Waist Line.
according to the prevailing fashions.
the Center front.
Length
of the
Block from
Or two
Back
is
Super-Tailored Coat.
so the
Model may
der seam up to the neck line and spread the Front and Back Blocks so they
will lie straight with the material.
By doing
the
in
will
Back meas-
Draw
Back
of
The
dotted line
lines the
New
Block.
As down
Model
a semi-fit,
draw
is
lines
to the Semi-Fit
Waist Line.
If
more
fullness
arm
line.
This
about 26 inches
from the Normal Waist Line. from the Normal Waist Line.
The Coat
Back 32 inches
is
tailored
on the bottom
of
the
coat.
Trimmed
flat
Collar.
inal line
Measure neck
neck
line.
Draw
Draw
of the
straight lines
up center
of
and ends.
Draw
inchesi
curved
and lYz
Draw
This
is is
down
to
end points.
a standing collar.
To
The
draft
the
with the
exception of the 6-inch point placed center front and center back.
Skirt.
The Back
Panels.
is
The
hem
of the skirt.
Sew
Sew
around arm-hole.
One hundred
seventy-three
Hand-Tailored Points
Diagram
1.
in
is
The canvas
front
hand padded
ibility;
the garment.
2.
Canvas fronts are carefully hand pressed and that the shoulder may
lie
front of garment
3.
smoothly.
Lapels are hand padded with small stitches to insure softness and the
roll.
proper
4.
5.
The under
collar is carefully
padded by hand
for pliability.
The
The
front darts are hand tacked with linen to hold the forepart cor-
rectly
6.
on the canvas.
top and front edge of lower pocket are fastened to canvas by hand
to give strength
7.
in perfect position.
on
all
Welts on
all
The
bridle is basted
to the forepart
and tacked
on the
9.
may hang
evenly.
hand with
strength
Tape
is
hand
in a
felled to the
edge
may remain
11.
smooth
condition.
is
The
edge coats to keep the edge firm and to prevent the edge from turning.
12.
The seam
flat
in the
is
hand tacked
to the canvas to
and to insure a
is
solid effect.
facing
by hand
to
absolutely secure.
15.
front
in
with chain stitch to insure a well-fitting armhole and to give ease and
bility
16.
The under
collar is put
17. 18.
lie
collar is
is
hand
felled to the
neck gorge.
top collar
may
perfectly.
19.
is felled
by hand.
facing and top collar are
20.
hand
felled.
The
drawn
together by hand, not only where lapel meets collar but the entire length of
the facing, so that at no point does the top collar overlap the facing.
21.
22.
The buttonholes
are
all
reinforced and
made by hand.
and tacked by hand. Sleeve
The
hand
felled
and tacked.
is
The bottom
facing of coat
tailoring
must embody
all
One hundred
seventy-five
Art of Designing
is
combining two or more colors that are sensitive and becoming vibrations.
The
sensitivity of Color
is
is
felt
in bringing
together two or more colors; easily affected to the right or wrong combinations.
to sensations
when made
of strik-
The mastery
of color
is
a difficult achievement.
Surety
is
attained
by
may be
by
side,
For
Orange.
you
in
complementary softness
of hues,
yet colorful.
Let sensitiveness
with Cerise
feel the
of color
be combined.
In your selections
feel
your colors as
in the
above
Do
it is
we must always
As an
correctly.
in these
must be used.
warm and
mind
and
the
in Reality.
effect to the eye.
Harmony
is
Art of Lines,
let
Woman
which
as Decoration.
of Color is gained
Harmony
all
to
One
many
is
the
the
warmth
and natural
effects.
The Essence
scintillate
of Color
is
from harmonious
effects.
One hundred
sevenly-six
and wrong
of
com-
Let
this sense
be gradual in
its
The
following Color Combinations have been worked out under the laws
of Psychology.
Color Combinations
Art of Combining Colors in Fashions
Cerise and Grey.
(Direct opposites
one
one
still
is
(Harmonious combination.)
(Direct opposition in intensity but not in shade
complementary.)
Vermilion and Reseda Green.
to its
best advantage.)
(Same reason
(A
enough
to dull a
Blue.
same
value.
The
blue
com-
Rules for
Blue.
all
Pastel Shades.)
of intense colors.)
(Middle value
(Balance of intensity.)
(Radius.)
of Quality.)
(Sameness
(An
one
shade containing
of
amount
of black
black.)
(Refinement of colors.
combination of
(A combination used
to avoid
monotony
of other
same
intensity
(A
satisfactory
weak
color.
Combination
in light
and dark).
(One
(A
Natural colors
same
intensity.)
(Coordinating colors.)
(Refined and vulgar colors of same vibrating
Rose.
(One predominating
One hundred
seventy-eight
know and
It is
The
sensitiveness of treat-
ment
of
The
Classification
of
Medium
Light,
Medium
(Clustering Lines).
Full Length ^4).
(Indefinite or
Mixed Lines).
Medium Heavy
(Definite Lines).
Poiret Twill, a
a Satin
in length
and mixed.
As one
Body
Semi-Body
Material would influence Lines like Panel Lines, while the Flexible
Body
Cascades.
is
a big asset.
The
Over
Materials given are classified under the departments of Woolens, Silks, Cot-
classification,
new
material
is
created select
its
cation.
In the Psychology of the use of Materials and the combining of the same,
consider grades.
In designing Models
made
of
two
materials, build
selection.
Work
For example:
classified as
Medium Heavy
in weight,
must be treated
By
a recognized
qualifying feature, even though the Designer (or Thinker) has as yet no
feature
may
One hundred
seventy-nine
gestions.
Heavy)
an
overbalance
treatment
in
While a
selection of a
Canton
on an even
scale.
It is pos-
combine materials of the same value, but they must have a balanced
or relative texture.
You may
take a
trim in a
Heavy Weight;
This
is
or a
Weight
Material.
Psychology
must be borne
in
mind that
all
It is
One hundred
eighty
Cottons
Veilings
Duvetyn M.L.
Chinchilla Crepe
M.
Drapella M.L.
Brocaded Chiffon
L.M.
Chiffon L.
Canton Crepe M.L. Satin Canton M.L. Kitten's Ear Crepe M.L. Jersey M.L. Serge L.M. Taffeta L.M.
Chiffon Taffeta L.
Oxford M. Linen M.
Madras M.
Dimities L. Long Cloth M.
Georgette L. Crepe Helene M.L. Crepe Romaine M.L. Satin Striped Georgette M.L. Flowered Chiffon L.
Muslin M.
Soisette
M.
M. M.H.
Printed Chiffon, L. Paisley Georgette L. Mulle L. Tulle L. Net L. Moline L. Paulette Chiffon L. Peau de Sole L. Metallic Chiffon
Aeroplane Linen M.
Indian
L.M.
Marquisette L. Tarleton L.
M.
Head M.
China Silk L.
India Silk L.
Batiste L.
Nainsook M.
Percale M.
H.
Tweeds H.
Homespun H.
Velours H. Flannel M.H. Nun's Veiling L. Shallie L.
Gingham M.
Pique M.
M.
H. Crepe de Chine L.M. Pussy Willow Taffeta L.M. Duchesse Satin H.
Tricolletxe
M.H.
Moire H. Taffeta Moire L.H. Printed Crepe de Chine L. Brocaded Canton M. Tussah L.M.
Grosgrain M.
Shantung L.M. Charmeuse M. Silk Velour M. Crepe Morocain L.M. Perlaine L.M.
Bengaline M.
PopUn
1,1.
Kumsii Kumse M.
Baronette Satin M. Satin Sonata M.L. Fantasie M.
Alpaca M.
Satine M. La Jerz M.
Broadcloth M.
Faille Silk
M.
Roman
Striped Taf-
One humiicd
e'ujhty-unc
novelty
is
an
Model
to
which
it is
applied; a scheme of
The Ornamentation
that
is
is
sub-
For example:
Buckrum
or Willow), so that
it
The Ornamentation
example:
that
is
For
large
bow
The Ornamentation
Embroideries.
Featuristic or Outlining.
For example
Like
The Ornamentation
one
that
is
Futuristic or Impressionistic.
of painting, stenciling, staining
and coloring.
The Ornamentation
and
For example:
The
:
cutting
away
For example
Lace Medal-
Or
it is
an
article that
etc.;
anything to make
Sense.
artful.
For example:
Making the
Model with
Back
of the
Model
of different colors.
The Ornamentation
alized natural.
Convention-
To
wit:
scrolls, etc.; a
Mode
of
Custom.
is
natural.
The Ornamentation
objects, like Spider
of
Grotesque
effects.
For example:
Like Weird
Ornamentation
Designers
may
in Califor-
While
sitting
on the old
rock wall
button.
top.
I
noticed a snail
whose
shell
It is
also very Seasonable. Recent Seasons have been for Embroideries and Fringes.
is
different.
If the
Ornamentation
is
designed
Model
as a
eration
charm or a necessity
to finish out
raw
edges.
Model
saleable.
Sometimes
it
is
The
Classic interpretations
Modern
and Designs.
New ideas season after season have been created the New you will find Old Ideas created into new form.
to use the sense of adaptation
as Decoration.
It is for the
With
Designer
relative forma-
tions of
Psychology
mentation.
One hundred
eighty-three
Tassels,
Inserts (Designs cut out).
Furs,
Feathers,
Pom Poms,
Embroideries,
Couching,
Beads,
Drawnwork Design,
Puffing,
etc.),
Quilting,
Spangles,
Sequins,
Pasmenteries^
Jets,
Fringing,
Painting,
Batik,
Wood
Prints,
Block Prints,
Harem
Darts,
Rolls,
Stenciling,
Facings,
Slots for threading through.
Stamping, Stitches (Designs made by same as Smocking, etc.). Stitching (Designs made by same as Chain Stitch, etc.). Fagoting (Designs made by connecting stitches). Crocheting (Designs made by crocheting together), Picot and Hemstitching,
Ruffles,
Button Holes,
Pockets,
Stripes,
Pieces
Shells,
(Inlays-Mosaic Effects),
Charms (Ivory),
Jewels (Cameos, etc.). Pendants (Crystal, etc.),
Belts,
Cords,
Chains,
Rosettes,
Coils,
Garlands,
Foliage,
made with
Motifs Applied,
Tufts,
Cording,
Binding, Piping,
Sashes,
Scarfs,
Seams,
Braiding,
Berthas,
Fisheaus,
On,'
hundred eighty-four
Eyelets,
Pinching (Extra Fullness), Scallops, Points, Squares and fancy edges (cut).
Pinking,
all
Punching,
(Designs
cut open),
Selvage,
Tinsel,
Loops.
One
huiidied eighly-five
Index
Page
Face Full View Face
Profile
19
21
A Three-quarter
View
of a Thirty-six
Corsetiering
Manikins
......24
-
23
Small Backs
Draft of Sleeve Sleeve Creations
Instructions for Drafting
25
-.--.39
41
-
36
Upon Our
Center Points
(Two
One
45
Designing Straight-Line One-Piece Creations Introducing Silhouette Line (Chemise Blocks) Semi-Fit Creations with Refreshing Inspirations
Character of Line
Lines in
Name Only
(Butterfly
Kimona)
----......51 --.--....--.51 --SS ---------59 ..----.-.-. -----...-.63 ---.--.--. ..------..--69 --...-----.-.-73 .......... -.---.-..-.--85 .--...--..-89 .-.----.-.--93 ---...-..... ...---.--.----------^J^
81
97
101
Decoration of Line
-----------------------..----...
...--------. .--...-...
-
105
109 113
US
133
Outdoor Sports Models Fads in Fashion (Three Piece Back) (Circular and Military Capes)
Jeune
Creations (Linear and Aerial Lines)
Fille
--
147
153
159
The
Tailored
Woman
--.-.-. ....--....
I63
179
176
182
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
1111:1111!
iiiiiiiyiyih'iiiii
111
i!iiiii!!iii!iiliiiiii
iii
!iiiiiiillliiiiiil;uiilii;i