My corner:

Visit to fort Sardrgarh : Journey back in time

As it happens during all Diwali breaks, we were little late

to wake up. As a result ‘No vacancy’- in trains, planes or
hotels. So as I do routinely, I turned to my travel agent
for suggestions. She told me just one name - fort
Sardargarh in Rajasthan. I said; well your agency’s
name is ‘destinations unlimited’ but here you are giving
me very limited options. She gave me a very penetrative
looks, as if to say “those who don’t plan their vacations
in advance have to be content with the leftovers".
Instead, she said ‘we will discuss the place once you are
back’.

So there we were, heading north towards Udaipur. This

place is 94 km north of Udaipur on Udaipur - Ajmer
highway (NH 8). I love driving on Himmatnagar –
Udaipur stretch. This stretch of road has everything
which a driving enthusiast (like me!) can ask for. It has
wide four lanes, it has barricades on either side, has
enough twists, turns, ups and downs and has, just about
adequate traffic to keep one awake and alert. In
comparison I find our own express way to
Ahmedadabad; quite dull , straight and boring piece of
asphalt, so much so that I feel that nothing is going to
happen even if I keep my car on cruise control and doze
off on the steering wheel.
Further ahead what annoys you is the no of toll booths
which keep coming at you at regular intervals. There are
not less than 10 till Udaipur. Not only they act as speed
breakers, but collectively they can dig a big hole in your
wallet. At last toll I almost told the collector “tell me than
why should I also pay income tax?!”
It’s about 7 hours drive. There are no of tempting temples
en route but if one wants to reach in time to enjoy the
day at hotel one has to ignore and resist those
temptations. On the other side, it could be one of the
excuse and incentive to go to Rajasthan. “chal ne, jode
jode shrinathji na darshan pan thai jashe”. One turns right
from Kankroli (about 60 kms from Udaipur), on a state
highway now. It has enough pot holes to make you feel
that you are riding a horse and the car! And why not?
after all you are visiting a
fort, better be on a horse.
Suddenly, you see the
ramparts of the mystery
filled Sardargarh, like a
great ship anchored at
outer sea, as you get
closer you realize the true
Sardargarh fort, Rajsamand.
proportions of the fort as gigantic wall soar high above
the low lying small village.
From the time you drive up the narrow steep entrance
(tour buses cannot negotiate this narrow entrance –
which is a bonus), and receive a traditional Rajasthani
welcome fit for a bridegroom, you will be led to your
room into a different world.

The owners have spent considerable amount of time,

effort and money in renovating the guest rooms and
common areas (there are only 21 rooms/suites) to a very
high standard with all the modern conveniences and
exquisite décor. Each room has a large swing in the
entrance porch which is well lighted and ventilated with
a ceiling fan. Our marble-floor air-conditioned suite
consisted of a bedroom, a dressing room with wardrobe
and enough shelves to place the luggage and a separate
very modern bathroom. The rooms are kept in
immaculate condition. Our room had widows that
overlooked a well tended garden with lots of beautiful
flowers. Interestingly all the rooms are given names of
the queens from Sardarsingh’s extended family and
decorated in their favourite colour themes.
The owners employ about 40 staff from the small village
of Lawa, located at the bottom of the fort. Again the
owners in the very short period of time this resort has
been open to guests (first year of operation was 2006)
have done a commendable job in training the young staff
he employs from the village in the art of guest service as
they had never seen a fork, never mind which side of the
setting to place it!! You will be well looked after at this
hotel.
You will find that the staff are continuously either
watering or trimming the well kept gardens.
The emblem of Sardargarh is rising sun and a sword,
below which it is written “work is thy duty, reward is not
thy concern”. It did appear to be inspired by lord
Krishna. All staff seemed to follow it very religiously.

After getting fresh, I met Mahipal singh; the seventh

generation owner of the fort. Sardargarh is personally
operated by Mr Mahipalsingh and his wife unlike the
other heritage hotels which are usually run by managers
on behalf of the hereditary owners. He is more than
happy to narrate 250 year old history of this fort. “Sardar
singh, one of the most powerful Dhodhias (Ancient
kshtriya race and warrior community with heroic history
and enviable victories.) built Sardargarh during 1738 –
1743. As the story goes , at the inauguration of this fort
Maharana Jagatsighji, than the ruler of Udaipur was so
impressed that he appointed Sardarsigh to supervise
construction of Jagat Nivas, now better known as lake
palace and almost a symbol of Udaipur.”

The contours of the palace fort which is spread over 3

lacs sq feet beautifully blend with those of the Aravali
hills. North of the fort, lies Manohar Sagar, large lake
which gets filled to brim in monsoon. Within the fort
there are multiple court yards, bath area, garden, granary,
underground passage system, public audience hall etc.
“Ask any staff to give you a tour of the castle. You will
go through some amazing narrow passages which go
down 7 floors below ground level!!. We did exactly
opposite and went to the roof and preferred un-
obstructed view of the lake braving gutsy winds.

Food served was not very

elaborate but was tasty and
homely with one or two
Mewari dishes added the
local flavour. Lunch was
served under the marble
canopy at the centre of the
big court yard with
Marble canopy: lunch
beautifully manicured gardens all around. Dinner was
even more exquisite served under the glittering stars on
candle lit tables on the roof top terrace. In the distance
while Rajsthani folk singers danced on their unique
songs and music, I wonder if Sardar singh himself had
such luxury some 250 years back!!

At 4 pm next day there were sudden noises “guest ayo,

guest ayo” every body seemed running towards the Suraj
pole (main gate) with pooja thali, garlands and welcome
drink. I also joined in the welcome of 4 Innova full of
foreign tourists. “special guests?!- I winked at
Mahipalsingh. “special guests at special rates!!” he
winked back. “No actually on a serious note my hotel is
used as transit stop for these tourists by their Delhi
agents as a stopover between Jaipur and udaipur. And
that’s a good business for new place like us”, he informs
me.

Apart from exploring the

fort there is not much
activity here. We avoided
Night wild life safari (10 %
chance of spotting leopard
and 80 % chance of
spotting spotted deer).
Picture perfect pool Going by my past experiences

of safaris, I have started believing that all wild animals

avoid me so I decided to do the same to them this time.
Swimming pool is located in another court yard. It is
very pretty with lotuses and fish ponds all around it, but
water was too cold for my liking and I chose to sit on one
of the lounge chairs and read my unfinished novel from
the last trip.
Those who can not sit still at one place can actually visit
Kumbalgarh; another fort about 65 km away. It is
supposed to have the long long wall only second to great
wall of china. Or for that matter Ranakpur with its
famous Jain temples are also in close vicinity.

Overall we had very satisfying 2 days break because

where else you can cuddle up in the lap of history
enjoying medieval ambience amidst all modern day
luxury. I think I need to thank Rina, my travel agent.

Catch me with your views on

anand.naregal@rediffmail.com