Professional Documents
Culture Documents
NO.10
Cover no. 10 shot by emin
THIS
Coat:
jeremy
scott
gloves:
etro
IS TH
IS TH
Coat:
jeremy
scott
gloves:
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HE
HE
REBIRT
RE
BIR
TH.
Coat:
jeremy
scott
gloves:
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THE
TH.
PRIM
Editor in Chief & Creative Contributors
Director
Kristin Prim
Managing Editor
Alex Kazemi
Publisher
Abby Rostochil
Alex Kazemi
Alyssa Hardy
Angela Alba
Annabell Dalton
Antonia Hanyden
Ashley Bartlett
PRIM Jourdana Abrahams
Laura Havlin
Lauren Felix
Liane Eltan
Lisa Bonomo
Liz Jeneault
Lovisa Drever
Marta Represa
Contributing Photographers
Alexander Neumann
Alice Rosati
Andoni & Arantxa
Billy Winters
Brendan Burdzinski
Cameron James
Emin
Contributing Stylists
Ai Kamoshita
Beagy Zielinski
Elle Noble
Emma Pritchard
Gillian Steinhardt
Irene De Santis
Katie Burnett
Prim Magazine, Inc. Jonathan Segade Kattaca
Audrey Greene Micaela Mota
Audrey Rogers Michelle Winter Junichi Kikunichi Lauren Grant
Printing Kumiko Yashiro Machiko Abe
Caitlin McNulty Mona Ascha
Heidel Print Co. Ltd. Paul Farrell Masaki Kataoka
23-1 Sunae-dong, Suite Carmen Gutierrez Raheem Brown
Charleston Matthews Sara McCulloch Pedro Reguera Maya Yamashita
A1407
Daiana Folea Sarah Sopab Piczo Pauline Montupet
Budang, Seongnam 463-
Gabriella Moses Shazmin Borlandoe Sergio Kurhajec Sara Bascuñan
854
Gaelle Koumou Willie Norris Teneshia Carr Svetlana Prodanic
South Korea
Gwen Jakubisin Toshio Onda Yoshi Miyamasu
Advertising Jasmine Santiago Yusuke Miyazaki
Nora Ferrandino, Maria- Jeanie Annan-Lewin
Grace Villano Jen Jaconelli
primmagazine@live.com Jennifer Jewels
Last issue's spread, Vogel Max: Ever Lingering Soul, Ruthlessly Seeking Salvation, A Tale by Reno Ranger, was photographed by
Reno Ranger. Model: Max Vogel @ Izaio Models Berlin, Makeup & Hair: Tanja Henning, Stylist: Jennifer Hahn
FE
TA
LE
Photographed by Toshio Onda, Styled by Yoshi Miyamasu @ Signo
assisted by Atsushi Nagao and Shotaro Yamaguchi, Hair by Teiji Utsumi
@ Bluerooms assisted by Fukumi Makino, Makeup by Mina Nodo @
Signo, Modeled by Sasha Luss @ Donna
Dress: HISUI
Jacket, Leg Cover, Leggings,
Boots, and Gloves: G.V.G.V.
Belt: MIHARAYASIHIRO
Necklace: ATELIER SWAROVS-
KI by Christopher Kane
Dress and Skirt: G.V.G.V.
Shoes: Carlota Joakina
Necklace: Issey Miyake
Bracelets: Sisco
SHADOW
CASTING
Photographed by Alexander Neumann, Styled by Masaki Kataoka assisted by Yuri Nagai, Makeup by Fumiaki Nakagawa for MAC
Cosmetics, Modeled by Megan McNierney @ Marilyn
Dress: Helmut Lang
Jacket: Staerk
Dress: Helmut Lang
Jacket: D&G
SEN
SUA
LITE
Photographed by Jonathan Segade, Styled by Sara Bascuñan, Makeup
by Susana Santos, Modeled by Anna Didenko @ Marilyn
Culote and Bra: ERES
Necklace: Moss Intropia
Dress: Armand Basi, Belt: El Caballo, Handbag: Escada, Turban: Vintage
Turban: Vintage, Necklace: Friis & Co.
Coat: Escada
ET
AGE
NOI
R
Photographed by Andoni & Arantxa, Styled by Irene De Santis, Makeup by Andreja Mrhar,
Hair by Daniella Moreno, Modeled by Ieva Birzina @ Next
Shirt: Gucci Man
Shirt: Gucci Man
Trousers: Givenchy
Sandals: Baldinini
Tie: Levi’s
Glove: AB A Brand
Apart
Sweater: Gianfranco Ferré
Trousers and Necklace: Nude
Bracelet: Accessorize
Shoes: Baldinini
Sweater: Gianfranco Ferré
Trousers and Necklace: Nude
Bracelet: Accessorize
Shoes: Baldinini
Underwear: Mariella Burani
N O C T
U R N O
P h o t o g r a p h e d b y S e r g i o K u r h a j e c , S t y l e d b y G i l l i a n S t e i n h a r d t , H a i r b y A l b e r t o G u z m a n @ J u d y C a s e y, M a k e u p b y J a n e i r o @
J u d y C a s e y, M o d e l e d b Y D e a n n a M i l l e r @ N E X T
Dress: Iceberg
Bracelets: Fallon
Necklace: Yigal
Azrouel
Earrings: Made Her
Think
Top: Badgley Mischka
Pants: Allesandro
dell’Acqua
Belt: Vintage Southpaw
NY
Collar: Phillip Lim
WONDER
L AND Photographed by Pedro Reguera
Styled by Kattaca, Hair by Iker Urcelay, Makeup by Ana Fernandez, Modeled by Ema Busson, Assisted by Felipe
Maqui and Luis Veloso
Tutu and Skirt: Carlos Diez
Paper Ruffle: It-Spain
Vest: Lydia Delgado
Belt and Pants: Moschino
Bracelets: H&M
Dress: Amaya Arzuaga, Top: Prada, Jacket: Juanjo Oliva
Tutu and Skirt: Carlos Diez, Paper Ruffle: It-Spain, Vest: Lydia Delgado, Belt and Pants: Moschino, Bracelets: H&M, Shoes: Manish Arora
Pants and Watch: Armand Basi One, Skirt: Amaya Arzuaga, Belt Loop: Juanjo Oliva, Skirt: It-Spain, Collar: Spher, Shoes: Moschino
LACE
NOIR
Photographed by Junichi Kikunichi, Styled by Katie Burnett, Makeup by Anna Hanson, Hair by Koji Takayanagi for Bumble and Bumble, Modeled by
Ben & Jacob @ Storm
Top: Lina Osterman
Pants: Omar
Kashoura
Suit: Keith Grey
Coat: Tim Hamilton
Coat: Keith Grey
Pants: Tim Hamilton
REPTILIA
GOTHIQUE
P h o t o g r a p h e d b y Y u s u k e M i ya z a k i a s s i s t e d b y M a s ay u k i I c h i n o s e , S t y l e d b y A i K a m o s h i t a a s s i s t e d
b y M aya Ya m a s h i t a , M a k e u p b y K e n N a k a n o f o r M . A . C . , H a i r b y S o i c h i I n a g a k i f o r K i e h l ’ s
Top: Yusuke Hotchi
Trousers: Jamie Cockerill
Dress: Yusuke Hotchi
Gloves and Tights: Fettered Pleasure
Top: Calvin Klein
Bangles: Freedom
Dress: Yusuke Hotchi
Bodice: Jamie Cockerill
Gloves: Fettered Pleasure
BRONZEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY Piczo
Styled by Kumiko Yashiro, Hair by Hiroshi Matsushita for Bumble & Bumble, Makeup by Ken Nakano for M.A.C., Modeled by Vera @ Select
Jacket: E.G...
Leggings: Fanny and Jessy
Shoulder Piece: Mungo Gurney
Belt: Gemma Slack
Necklace and Bracelet: Pebble
Jacket: Reem
Top: Sosume
Leggings: Arnsdorf
Belt: Mungo Gurney
Necklace: Pebble
Jacket: Reem
Top: Sosume
Leggings: Arnsdorf
Belt: Mungo Gurney
Necklace: Pebble
Jacket: E.G...
Leggings: Fanny and Jessy
Shoulder Piece: Mungo Gurney
Belt: Gemma Slack
Necklace and Bracelet: Pebble
Jacket: Paul & Joe, Bodysuit: Georgia Hardinge, Necklace and Rings: Imogen Belfield, Bracelet: Pebble, Shoes: Matthew Taylor
BLIND
NESS
Photographed by Teneshia Carr, Styled by Svetlana Prodanic, Hair by Kunio Kohzaki,
Makeup by Kate Goodwin, Modeled by Rachel Rutt @ Next, Retouched by Bethany Wood
Top: Daniel Lee
Necklace: Aminaka Wilmont
Trousers: Qasimi
Gloves: Nike
Necklace: Erickson Beamon
Dress: Pierre Garroudi
Dress: American Apparel
Necklece: Erickson Beamon
J eanne D ’ A rc
Photographed by Brendan Burdzinak assisted by Aslan Chalom, Styled by Beagy Zielinski,
Makeup by Theresia Pistel, Hair by Nikki Nelms, Modeled by Taylor D @ Ford
Top: Balenciaga, Skirt: Hannah Marshall, Gloves: L’Armoire Du Styliste
Dress: Lanvin
Necklace: Club Monaco
Tights: L’Armoire Du Styliste
Shoes: Pierre Hardy
Jacket: Rick Owens
Socks: L’Armoire Du Styliste
Shoes: Pierre Hardy
APPREHEND
Photographed by Yusuke Miyazaki assisted by Sayuri Ichida, Styled by Machiko Abe, Hair by Takeshi, Makeup by Kanako Yoshida for M.A.C. Pro, Modeled by Fletcher Cowan @ Premier
Model Management
Top and
Trousers: Kim
Wilkins
Coat and Trousers: Robert Huth
Waistcoat and Jeans: RoCoCo, Necklace: Number(N)ine
THE OTHER SIDE
Photographed by Billy Winters assisted by Tressa Pack, Styled by Pauline Montupet assisted by Chaz Schaad,
Hair by Steve Elias, Makeup by Mariana Stanojevich, Modeled by John Von Tesmar @ City and Nick Hinman
@ Wilhelmina
Top: Micaela Greg, Neckpiece: Kittinhawk, Top Hat: Costumes on Haight
Coat: Raf Simons
Coat: Jeremy Pants: Marc Jacobs
Scott Sunglasses: Maison Martin Margiela (M.A.C.)
Gloves: Etro Boots: J Shoes (Bulo Shoes)
Shirt: Timo Weiland, Legging: Micaela Greg, Boots: Vintage, Bracelets: Von Kottwitz, Tie: J. Crew
PRIM INTERVIEWS
JEREMY SCOTT
L.A.’s golden boy
TODD LYNN
Rock n’ Roll’s fashion darling
LA ROUX
Androgynous U.K. Hitmaker
ROBERT GELLER
Menswear Couturier
SOPHIE BUHAI & LISA MAYOCK
FASHION’S BRIGHTEST DUO
JERE
MY.
SCOT
T.
Interview by Alex Kazemi and Lovisa Drever
Jeremy
Scott:
L.A.’s
Golden
Alex Kazemi: Why do you choose to incorporate pop culture Scott: Well, I love Pixie and her cute lil face! She’s a total in-
as frequently as you do in your designs? spiration and muse! I thought a lot about her while designing
Jeremy Scott: Yes, I am a product of a pop-culture-mass- this collection; she’s got the punk spirt that I dreamt of when I
market-shopping mall-multi-media-made world fused with a designed the collection.
love of the surreal.
Drever: Is there a certain aesthetic your models are required
Kazemi: Were you always drawn to pop culture while grow- to have?
ing up? Scott: I love individualistic people with personality so I often
Scott: As a child I was fascinated with Andy Warhol more use more inspiring and less traditional models. I’m more
as a person than for his art or what he represented; to me inspired by personality than common beauty.
that was being a part of pop culture itself. It’s hard for us to
imagine another world as most the people reading this right Kazemi: Do you have a personal favorite piece from your S/S
now grew up only in a pop world; that’s all we have known 2010 collection?
but there was a world before! Although dusty and gray, there Scott: Well normally I do not have favorites because my de-
really was a world before pop. I’m not inspired by the pre-pop signs are like little children to me, but my golden child would
world. I’m curious as to how long this pop world will last; I be my black leather jacket with tails because I want to wear it
can’t imagine anything else! myself!
Kazemi: When did you realize that your true love was fash- Drever: Can you give us any insight on the unreleased F/W
ion? Was it something that you tried to deny or embrace? 2011 collection? What should we expect?
Scott: Oh, I always loved clothes as a child! I was very partic- Scott: Expect faaaaaaasssssshhhhhhiiiiiionnnnnnnn!
ular about what I would wear and how I put it together. From
the age fourteen and on I was more aware of high fashion, Kazemi: Do you ever look back on your collections and
designers and not just brands at the mall. When I was really regret designing a piece?
young I wore thirft store clothes. I grew up very poor and had Scott: I never really regret anything.
to shop there; I loved it! When I was older and I could choose
whether I wanted to shop there or not, I still went! I enjoy the Drever: So you feel this is all a part of creative growth?
originality of having things that other people don’t have; it’s Scott: Everything is growth. Everything I’ve done has been
what sets us apart. I still love wearing vintage clothes today. sincere at that moment and that time.
Kazemi: Is there a particular reason for the reoccurring Dis- Kazemi: Do you feel that residing in Los Angeles has made a
ney references in your work? large impact on your designing process?
Scott: Mickey is an icon that is globally recognized. He has Scott: Not really! I live in L.A., stay in New York, show in
meaning to so many people which makes him a great vessel to Europe, work with a German brand, and love Tokyo. I’m a
carry a message. child of the world! L.A. is a wonderful - truly wonderful place
to live. I work well here because there isn’t a lot to distract me
Lovisa Drever: Was Adidas the first sports brand you looked and the life is lush! So if it has affected me, it has done only
to collaborate with? for the better!
Scott: Yes, Adidas was the first sports brand I looked to
collaborate with, and it’s been a wonderful and successful Drever: Have you ever seen someone wearing your designs?
marriage ever since! I love how Adidas has had a role in What is the quintessential way to wear a Jeremy Scott piece?
pop culture, music, and art movements. It has meant a lot of Scott: Yes I have! It’s always wonderfully flattering to see
different things to a lot of different people. I think that’s a someone wearing something I’ve designed. I especially love it
wonderful quality which I try to achieve. when people make it their own. That’s the most flattering!
Drever: Did you have a hard time toning down your designs Kazemi: What was your experience at Pratt Institute?
for more mainstream audiences in the Adidas collection? Scott: Pratt was a wonderful school experience; it was the
Scott: I treated Adidas as my own! true college life I would have seen in the movies growing up.
I lived on the campus and still have many friends I made there
Drever: Were there boundaries you had to stay within? then today. Tons of great memories!
Scott: I had nothing but free range.
Kazemi: What is currently on repeat on your iPod at the mo-
Kazemi: Which muse has most significantly influenced your ment?
work? Scott: “Stillness in the Move” by Solange, “Bad Romance”
Scott: Without a doubt that would be the love of my life, my by Lady GaGa, “Won’t You be My Fucking Boyfriend” by
best friend, Pablo. He constantly inspires me and is my driv- The Bird and the Bee.
ing force. I am still in awe of him and have been ever since
we first met. Kazemi: So music deeply influences your designs?
Scott: Music is a big influence on my designs. I think about
Drever: Pixie Geldof rocked the Flinstone look in your S/S my friends and what they would like to wear on stage or in
2010 show. Is she someone you reached out to specifically? their music videos while designing. I love to design while
listening to their music!
M
Drever: You’ve worked a
lot with GaGa this past year.
We’ve heard there were
scenes that were cut from the
“Paparazzi” video. Is there
anything you feel the view-
ers missed out on?
Scott: Yes, I’ve worked quite
a bit with GaGa this year.
She’s wonderful because I thought of a food fight... how
she’s always pushing herself funny is that? What if food
to take her music to the actually started a fight?! That
next level. I don’t think you would be sooooo brilliant:
missed anything in the video hamburger against hotdog,
since all the deleted parts cookie against pretzels, and
have leaked anyway! popcorn all over the place!
JACKSON bands?
Jackson: Maybe! Or
ROBE
RT.
GELL
ER.
Interview by Willie Norris
Willie Norris: What was your a sense of romance each
childhood like? season. Although that idea
Robert Geller: I was born in is somewhat broad, ro-
Hamburg in 1976. My father mance is always a part of
was a photographer and my my creative process and an
step-mother owned an amaz- important mood of the aes-
ing second hand store called thetic that I like. I’m also
Seconds; I was always sur- inspired by history, not liter-
rounded by creative environ- ally in the sense of histori-
ments. My family was very cal costume, but rather the
supportive of artistic endeav- evocation of a mood from a
ors which helped to develop faraway place and time.
my interest in art and design.
Norris: Any signature ele-
Norris: Did you always want ments?
to be a fashion designer or did Geller: I would say the
it emerge as an interest later signature element of the
in life? Robert Geller collection is a
Geller: I originally thought certain mood that is dreamy,
that I would follow in my romantic, and loosely based
father’s footsteps and become on historical references.
a photographer.
Norris: So it’s more...
Norris: When did this Geller: It’s more character-
change? istic than a particular design.
Geller: When I was studying
at the Rhode Island School of Norris: Do you have a
Design I took a class in fash- theme for each collection?
ion design and that experience Do you start with a design
made me decide to concen- detail or idea and go from
trate on fashion instead. I am there? Or do you start with
still very happy about that an image and go from there?
choice. Geller: Each season I have
a unifying idea that is often
Norris: How did you know the result of several feel-
that fashion was the right ings and inspirations. For
thing for you? Was there a example, the Spring 2010
specific moment you remem- collection focused on opti-
ber?
Geller: One moment that I’ll
never forget occurred after
graduating from RISD. I was
working for Marc Jacobs and
had tears in my eyes while
watching the run through of
the Fall 2001 runway show at
the Armory. It was all so mas-
sive and cool.
Jaconelli: What makes your working relationship successful? Jaconelli: Do you think having style is something you’re
Buhai: We are both slight OCD workaholics, although we’re born with or something you can be attained?
working on that with self help books. I’d say we work well Mayock: I don’t really know what style is; it’s a slippery
together because we cover each others back, we each have thing that’s difficult to describe. I don’t think it’s something
different strengths, and we work together constantly toward that can describe as a constant; people are in a constant state
achieving the same goals and vision for our company. of flux, and I think of style the same way. I went through a
period of wearing exclusively striped clothing and also a pe-
Jaconelli: Many graduates hope to be spotted by established riod of wearing fake blood on my clothes as an “accessory.”
designers - were you always in the mind of creating your own Is that style? No idea. I do think if you’re a creative person,
label rather than designing for someone else? you can use that to make some interesting decisions about
Mayock: Not at all! I was putting my portfolio together to try what to wear.
to get a job with other designers. Both of us had a few part
time jobs right after we graduated and we thought we’d make Jaconelli: Describe a typical day at Vena Cava.
some stuff together just for fun. We were never expecting it to Buhai: Caffeine, Greek yogurt, emails, talk about found ob-
turn into a real business. jects from the hardware store, more emails, sign some checks,
look at the sweater from Korea, have a conference call with
Jaconelli: When you started Vena Cava, did you find it diffi- the L.A. factory, emails, make a collage out of aerial photog-
cult to integrate into the fashion industry being young gradu- raphy, Italian meat sandwich, more emails, fitting, hand draw
ates? on a pair of converse for collaboration, phone calls, done.
Buhai: No, it was surprising but the industry was very wel-
coming to us. People embraced us and liked our youthfulness. Jaconelli: Do you feel a constant pressure to look stylish due
We were amazed at how many editors came to our first show. to your profession?
Jaconelli: I read that you gain inspiration from found objects, Mayock: Yeah. It blows.
which is reminiscent of pioneering artistic movements such
as Arte Povera. What is the most bizarre object that has given Jaconelli: Let’s get personal. Your apartment is burning down
you a design idea? and you can save one item of clothing. What is it?
Mayock: There is a really cool weight inside toilet tanks that Mayock: There’s a parade called the DooDah Parade in Pasa-
helps close the flusher lid thingie- it’s a big metal ball with a dena every year where everyone runs in costumes. My dad is a
SPRI
NG.
PREV
IEW.
Photography by Cameron-James Wilson Styling by Katie Burnett
Assisted by Tom Lockyer and Graham Woolie, Modeled by Kathleen Burbridge @ Premier, Makeup and hair by Maddie Austin for Chanel,
Manicure by Ceri Lee
Dress: Jasper Garvida
Shoes: Topshop
Ring: Kabiri
Dress: Jasper Garvida
Dress: Jasper Garvida