Astronomy & Telescope Design Manual

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Astronomy & Telescope Design

By Pete Pickett II

Preface elcome to my design manual. I have spent many nights and weekends working on understanding telescopes and the sky. This book on CD is intended to be for the beginner in astronomy. It also has some great info for even the expert. Use the menu on the left to guide yourself around the chapters in the book. If you want to dive into the software on here, then select the software link on the left and choose the Software page. I really do hope you enjoy this CD and learn much from it.

First Steps
I recommend you build a laser collimator first. This is a really quick tool to help you obtain accurate views of the night sky. Read through the instructions. You need to realize that there is an Equatorial mount design under the Modified Basic Dob design. Finally, install the Stellarium software and find your latitude and longitude from the Heavens Above website or the nearest airport. Look at the sky and enjoy your newest treasure!

A quick note about the two mirrors of the telescope

If you are building a telescope, remember to please handle the primary and secondary mirrors with the utmost care. These are the "Gems" of the telescope. If you pull the cellophane wrap off the large primary mirror, do not get finger prints on the bottom of the cellophane wrap which will get onto the coatings of the mirrors, if you place the cellophane wrap back onto the mirror. Until they are protected inside the tube (OTA), always wash your hands when coming near the optics. Do not bring the optics into the workplace where saw dust exists. Keep them away from vents in the ceiling, pets, and children. Never work with the optics in the Sun! Never look at the Sun through this instrument. For night time use only! Over time, the optics may get dusty or dirty. I have provided some instruction in the links section on taking care of your optics. I still have a 6" f/8 mirror made in 1971 that had small chips and silvering missing in small places but still got great shots of Saturn and Jupiter's clouds and moons after careful cleaning. So just try to be as careful as you possibly can. I cannot stress this enough! The optics can be resilvered by someone years into in the future if need be. When I have my tube disassembled from the base, I set the tube in a closet with the primary mirror face down. Cover the open end with a bag and put the orange cap onto the eyepiece holder, sealing the system.

Telescope Materials List

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-10" Dobsonian Telescope Materials ListYour Primary Purchased Items

One Primary Parabolic Mirror One Focuser One secondary mirror with Mirror Holder One viewfinder (optional) Eyepieces

Notes
You will need to find the Focal ratio found on this page If you do not have one and want to build your own see this link, page 22 If you do not have a mirror holder see this link, page 18

PICTURE

Info and Vendor Where it is Quantity Part Number Used 12" Diameter Sonotube Main Mirror about 48" long. Look at a concrete Tube supply house or ask around. These are (Optical used to make circular concrete pillars. 1 Telescope The actual length needed is the diameter of mirror*focal length or Assembly) 10*4 = 40 or the diameter of the tube is 2"+mirror OTA diameter. or 2"+10" = 12" 4' by 8' x .75" thick about 5 inches long Washer 3/16x ACE # H830604 1 1 6 For parts Spider and Tube Shims Eye Piece Holder & Viewfinder Eye Piece Holder & Viewfinder Eye Piece Holder & Viewfinder Secondary Mirror Holder

Sheet of PLYWOOD Scrap of 1 by 4 of good solid wood

(1/2 scale)

Nut, Self locking 8-32x ACE #H18038 Screw 8-32x 1" ACE #H18038 Screw (METRIC) M6x1.0Px35mm ACE #MPC-6F

Screw 8-32x 1.5" Image Image #10 x 1/2 " Pan head screws #10 Washers

3 1 small box 1 small box

Spider Spider

Telescope Materials List

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Image Image Image Image 1/2" x 3" Lag Screw and Washer Flat Black Spray Paint Wood Glue

Drywall screws 1 5/8" Drywall screws 1 1/4" Furniture Glides wooden paint stirring stick 1 1 1 3 9 3 3 3 1 Pack

1 small box 1 small box 1 box of Ground Board 4 Spider (get 2 6 extra)

1/4" x 3-1/2" long carriage bolt 1/4" washers for carriage bolt 1/4" Nut for Carriage bolt 1/4" Wing Nut for Carriage bolt 1-1/4" long x 11/16 diameter x .042" thick Compression Springs or HEAVIER Package of 4 2-1/4" angle brackets with screws Felt feet with self adhesive backing about 1/4" diameter Plastic FOR SALE sign at least 12" x 12" Tube of Epoxy 35 mm plastic film canister

Base Assembly To paint the interior of the tube To glue wood parts together before screwing. Mirror Cell Need 3 per bolt for Mirror Cell Mirror Cell Mirror Cell Mirror Cell Mirror Cell

1 Sheet Mirror Cell 1 1 1 To use under rocker box To glue the secondary mirror to its plastic holder Used to collimate the optics.

Tools Needed Square and straight edge Screw Driver/Drill and Bits Circular Saw Compass w/ pencil Tape measure box knife screw drivers socket set Jig saw Hack saw Felt tip pen

Description To cut the plywood with set of drill bits to 1/2" for the plywood to make circles for everything to cut the tube phillips and flat head Used for self locking nuts Cut round pieces (or use band saw) to cut metal brackets for mirror cell used to find the center of the main mirror

Telescope Materials List

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Optional Band saw with rotary jig 3 1/8 hole saw bit Saws all To quickly make make the Circular pieces used to cut eyepiece holder hole used to cut the large tube in half

Plywood Preperation

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsPlywood Preparation

Plywood Cut layout

Notes: Cut out images for 6" Dob and 8" Dob You can make your job easier by having the lumberyard pre-cut your plywood on their panel saw. They may be able to only do the vertical cuts above. Finish cutting the pre-cut pieces into the necessary sizes at home. Make sure you tell the salesperson cutting the wood for you that these sizes are for the finished (cut) pieces of wood. Allowance will have to be made before cutting for the width of the saw blade! (You lose about 1/8" of an inch for each cut, usually.) The wood sizes given should be the actual sizes of the cut pieces of wood.

Plywood Preperation

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Refer to the above drawing and plywood "cut pattern" throughout the following step-by-step instructions. Label all pieces (in pencil, chalk, or crayon) as they are cut! Create a PAPER TOOL. Use 8-1/2" x 11" sheets of paper and overlap them 2-3" to make a straight edge that will wrap around the Tube. When you wrap it around the tube line up the top and bottom edges and mark on both sheets of paper the place it overlaps. Unfold this and measure the half mark and quarter marks. Set it aside for use on the Tube Assembly Find the diameter measurements of the cardboard tube. Do not try to measure it with a ruler, as the tube flexes to much.
1.

Start with finding the circumference of the tube. Use a vinyl tape measure for sewing or by creating a paper tool. Wrap the paper tool around the tube lining one of the edges. place a mark where the sheets of paper cross. Unfold it and measure the distance = Circumference

Put the circumference in the equation Circ/3.1415 = Outside Diameter (OD) 3. The Radius of the Outer Diameter is OD/2 4. The Inner Diameter (ID) =OD - .25" for the thickness of the tube on both sides (if you are using a 1/8" thick tube)
2.

Plywood Preperation

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Making the E board into the Mirror Holder. Step 1 Measure the diameter of the main mirror. It should be approx. 250 mm (10") Find the Center of the E board by criss crossing lines from the 4 corners of the board. From the center, create a 10" diameter circle and an inner circle at 10"3" = 7" diameter circle using a Compass. The 7" comes from taking your Mirror Diameter and subtracting 3" . Step 2

On that 7" circle, draw 2 more circles on either side and use those points to create an equilateral triangle Step 3 Drill the center of the board with a 5/8" drill straight through Step 4

Cut the board out Drill with a .75" wood bit three counter sink holes. Then finish the holes through with a 5/16" drill bit

Plywood Preperation

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To make the F into the Lower Mirror Holder, you have to finish the E board. Step 1 Find the ID of the cardboard tube as detailed above. This will be the diameter of the F board. Step 2 Find the Center of the F board Create a circle using a Compass with the ID number you have calculated.

Step 3

Step 4 Bolt the 2 boards together in the center and use a nut. (this is

Drill the center of the board with a 5/8" drill straight through and then cut the board out. temporary) Step 4

(bolt not shown) Step 5

Now mark the 2 circles so they will be oriented on 1 edge. Then drill the F board through with a 5/16" drill bit.

Finally, take a magic marker and mark the center of the board around the edge as shown. It will be used for alignment inside the tube. You can simply lay the marker on a table and spin the board if you wish.

Plywood Preperation

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Making the G circles Step 1 Find the centers of both boards. Use a compass to create 6" circles Step 2 Drill 5/16" holes through the center and cut the exterior edge into a circle.

Other Items
Find the Center of the main mirror (Do this INDOORS) Use a piece of paper. Trace a 10" circle on it using the compass or simply trace the outside of the mirror. Fold it in half both ways seeing that the circle edges line up. Cut a small segment at the corner where the center would be. Unfold it and carefully lay it on the main mirror. Carefully place a dot with a sharpie or marker. Find the Exact Focal ratio of your mirror. With the flashlight or candle near a wall on the floor, move the mirror away from it slowly until it focuses the light image perfectly back on the wall. Find this distance from the candle to the mirror and divide by 2. This is the focal distance. Divide this number by the diameter of the mirror and this become the F# Example: Take the 10" mirror and pull it away from candle slowly until you see an exact image next to the candle on the wall. Lay a pencil on the floor where the mirror sits and measure the distance from the candle to the pencil. Say you get 84" then divide this by 2 and you get 42" (your focal length) then divide this by 10 and the F number is F4.2! Do it 3 times and average them for good results. An alternate way (safer) is to set the mirror up against a wall and move a flashlight or candle with a piece of paper, back to get the distance. When you get a sharp image of the flashlight or candle on the paper you have the length you are looking for. Trim the For Sale sign to 12 x 12 Trim the 4 Angle brackets Cut all but .25" off one end of the Angle bracket. File it down to remove burrs. Glue the Secondary to the the plastic holder using epoxy. (Do this INDOORS) Be careful not to touch the mirror. The silvered side should be EXPOSED, not the clear side. Telescope optics are different this way. You want as much unobstructed light as possible. Pre drill holes in the Paint Stirring sticks. Drill the holes 1" apart. Use the right sized drill bit for the #10 screws. Create a Film Canister Secondary mirror collimator Find a 35 mm plastic film canister with dimples on the lid and the canister. Drill 3/32" hole through the center of the cap and cut off the bottom end. Put the cap on the canister. This will fit perfectly into the focuser to help with alignment. It will center your eye with respect to the edges of the secondary mirror. To see how this works go here

Ground Board

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsGround Board

Step 1 Step 2

Screw 2 "C" boards together with Drywall 1 3/8" screws Find the center and move 1" towards a long side and drill .4" hole through both boards (see the drawing below) Step 3 Step 4

Screw in 3 feet with 2 of the feet on the front side. Use dry wall screws Step 5

Use compass & make 4.5" radius hole

Note: If you plan on making an EQ mount at this point, you may want to reconsider steps 2 through 5. See this link for more information

Nail in 4 furniture slider feet onto the circle. Try to evenly space them, but exact spacing is not important.
ANIMATION

Ground Board

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Rocker Box Instructions

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- Dobsonian InstructionsRocker Box

Step 1 Step 2

Get a "C" board Measure and mark 2 lines from center at 15.75" apart
For a 6" mirror use 11.75" For 8" mirror use 13.75"

Step 3

Step 4

Screw a "C" to the outside of that line. Use the 1-5/8" drywall screws Screw another C to the outside of the opposite side Step 5 Step 6

Screw one more C to a front side Now add another C to the bottom of the base Use the 1-1/4" drywall screws

Rocker Box Instructions

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Step 7

Step 8

Drill a .5" hole at that point Find the Center of the bottom and measure 1" forward to the front board Step 9 Step 10

Note: If you plan on making an EQ mount at this point, you may want to reconsider the next step. See this link for more information

For 6" or 8" mirrors use the same 2.25" or smaller.

Take 2 "B" boards and find the center. Then mark 2.25" from each edge of one end. Draw a triangle to those points and cut out the triangle

Add the 2 "B"s with a cut 4" down and 1.5" from the front board as shown in the assembly diagram below. Use the 1-1/4" drywall screws in 4 places.

Rocker Box Instructions

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ANIMATION

Dimensions for 10" Rocker Box

Tube Box Instructions

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsTube Box

Step 1 Step 2

Screw an "A" and "B" board on the 12.5" ends. Use (5) 1-5/8" drywall screws Step 3

Add another "B" and then an "A" Step 4

On Both "B" boards find the center Screw both "G" boards with 3 screws to the centers of "B" (they do not need to rotate) with the 1-1/4 drywall screws
ANIMATION

Tube Box Instructions

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Spider

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsSpider

Step 1 Step 2

Start with the 2" x 2" block. See the diagram below for the information on it Tap 2 holes in the paint stirrers about 1" apart. Align the paint stirrer with the block Step 3 Step 4

Use #10 screws and #10 washers to attach them. Make sure you avoid and of the other 4 holes on top. Add the other 3 legs and 8 screws and washers. Step 5 Step 6

The 8x32 screws should have to be screwed in.

The 6 mm screw should slide into the middle of the block

Spider

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Step 7

Step 8

Use a compass from the center and spin it to mark the (12") diameter on the top and bottom of the wooden legs. (Use the Diameter you calculated instead). This will help center the Spider in the tube. Step 9

View from the bottom. Back the 3 outside screws off about 6 turns so they are shorter on the bottom.

Step 10

Screw the 6 mm screw into the center hole at the top of the secondary mirror holder. BE CAREFUL TO NOT TOUCH THE MIRROR. Use the tissue paper to avoid any finger marks

Use the straight line to align the mirror face perpendicular from the rear screw (for easy optical calibration.)

Spider

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ANIMATION

Spider block

Spider

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Mirror Cell

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsMirror Cell

Step 1 Step 2

For 6" mirror it would be 6" ,for 8" mirror it would be 8"

Start with the 10" diameter Upper Mirror Holder (E) This is the part the mirror sits on

Put the 3 1/4" carriage bolts through Step 4

Step 3

Put 3 1/4" washers and 3 1/4" nuts and tighten them down pulling the heads of the carriage bolts into the counter bores Add the 3 Springs Step 5 Step 6

Then add 3 more washers Add the 12" diameter lower mirror holder board (F) Make sure you align the marks when you drilled the holes through both boards.

Mirror Cell

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Step 7

Step 8

Add 3 more washers

Now add the 3 wing nuts. Tighten each one until you get to the middle of the tension of the spring. These will be used to loosen and tighten to align the optics (collimating) Step 10

Step 9

Lay the primary mirror on the top. Do not do this in the sun and do not touch the top surface Step 11

On 3 of the angle brackets, add felt under the top and on the side

Note: When you are finished, and you see a "flare" or "comet tail" coming off a star, it is because the mirror was screwed down too tight in Step 11. Make the brackets just snug enough to keep the mirror from sliding off the mirror cell.

Screw the 3 brackets on but DO NOT make it too tight. This will deform the mirror. Do this in 3

Mirror Cell

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places (120 apart)

ANIMATION

Measure carefully from the top of the mirror to the black line in the middle of the bottom plywood This distance is called the CELL HEIGHT. It will be used on a measurement on the TUBE.

Mirror Cell

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Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

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- 10" Dobsonian Instructions Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

Step 1 Step 2

Lay the spider on the top of the tube. Make sure it is centered to the tube using the pencil marks on the legs of the spider. Mark the tube and cut slots at 2" deep. Use the Box knife to work the slots to make them clean Step 3 Find the approximate center of the secondary mirror with respect to the top of the tube. (the secondary is adjustable) Wrap the Paper Tool around the tube so the the ends overlap at the approximate point of the Focuser opening. Trace the line around the tube and mark the 4 quarters on the tube. Drill these 4 points with 1/8" or smaller drill bit.

Lay the Spider into the slots. It should fit snugly without warping the tube. If it shows warping then rework it with the box knife. Do not permanently mount this yet. You may need to come back and adjust the height when you are aligning the optics. Step 4

The tube with the mark and 4 holes from the previous step.

Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

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Step 5

Step 6

Lay the Focuser onto the tube. Mark the 4 screw holes and then pre drill them Cut a hole with a 3 1/8 hole saw or mark it and use the box knife to cut it out for the focuser Step 7 Step 8

Add the washers and lock nuts. Put the 4 8x32 screws through

Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

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Step 9 Remove the secondary mirror from the spider by unscrewing it. Use the Laser collimator to square up the focuser with the hole made in step 3 on the opposite end of the tube. you should be able to adjust the tension of the nuts to accomplish this, or add some cardboard shims.

Step 10 put the secondary mirror back in and use the Film Canister in the focuser to center the secondary mirror in the view. Also use the 2 side holes drilled in Step 3 to make sure the surface of the mirror is close to the other side of the hole

This allows you to center the secondary mirror in the center of the tube. Step 11 Step 12

Add the 8x32 screws, washers and lock nuts. Lay the Viewfinder on the tube. Make sure it aligns with the tube center. You can use the Paper Tool to sketch a line for the 2 screws to lie on.

Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

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Step 13

Step 14

Move the Mirror Cell into the tube and spot the MARKER line around the lower wooden holder. Before shooting screws, line up one of the collimating wing nuts opposite the eyepiece holder. This will help in aligning the optics.

(notice that a 10" F/4 mirror = 40" focal and 12 + 28 = 40) Use your measured focal length. Draw a line around the edge of the tube for the mirror cell using the Paper Tool. Then another line for the Cell Height. Drill 4 screw holes at approx. 90 around the tube Step 15

Use #10 washers and 1-1/4" drywall screws to place the mirror cell. ANIMATION Tube Assembly without the tube.

Optical Tube Assembly (OTA)

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Base Assembly

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-10" Dobsonian InstructionsBase Assembly

Step 1 Step 2

Begin with the GROUND BOARD

Staple or screw the FOR SALE sign to the bottom of the ROCKER BOX Step 3 Step 4

Add the Lag Screw and washer. The screw should tighten into the Ground Board and be loose on the Rocker Box. The 2 parts should swivel. Simply lay the TUBE BOX in the cradle

Base Assembly

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Slide the OTA TUBE into the TUBE BOX. Add triangular Shims created with the 1 x 4 scraps on all 4 sides as needed.

ANIMATION

Add the Eyepieces and check out the stars! Using a screwdriver and a another person you can begin aligning the optics (collimating) the telescope.

Base Assembly

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Optional Designs

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Optional Design Ideas

Use hacksaw blades on the spider Instead of paint stirrers, use hack saw blades or other thin steel for the spider legs. This minimizes or removes the flare when you focus on an object. This means you may have to attach a block of wood on the outside of the tube in 4 places to screw the thin blades into place. Use a large 6" PVC tube for the G pieces Cut some large 4"-6" PVC tube into 1" thick ring segments. You can use small brackets and glue to put them on. This may help in moving the OTA around on the rocker box. You may also consider adding teflon pads for the G pieces to slide on.

(Thanks to Phillip Merrit for the idea)

Make a "wheel barrow" out of it Add removable wheels and handles to the ROCKER BOX if you do not want to carry it. You can put an axle rod through the bottom of the rocker box. Put some PVC or pipe on to the sides to slide handles into. You can wheel the telescope as a whole. If you plan on going into some rough terrain, then use larger wheels! (maybe even inflatable tires!) Add Baffles Make another one or 2 circles like board F, but cut out another circle inside of it at approx. 11.25" in diameter (for a 12" tube), making a wooden ring. Sand down the outer edge so it can slide into the tube. Paint it Flat black. Then you can slide this into the front under the spider and above the focuser to keep the tube round and some of the light out. You can put another one under the focuser. Put at least 3 screws onto each with washers. Use the NEWT design software to design more baffles if needed Add Handles You can either purchase or make your own handles and put them on the sides of the Rocker Box,

Optional Designs

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the top of the Tube box ( or see below for a different option)

and under the mirror cell (to help placing and removing mirror)

Add an Eye Piece holder On the rocker box, use a 2.5"x7" piece of lumber. Use a drill bit just a bit bigger then 1.25" and your

Optional Designs

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eyepieces and barlow should slide right in. Make sure you place it on the side that you will have the focuser on.

Add optional rotation for Camera If you want to take photos, add the camera to the telescope and find the new change in the center of gravity. Mark this center on the 2 sides that are not used and mount 2 new circles at those points

Then, when you want to add a camera, simply rotate the whole telescope tube assembly 90 so that the eyepiece holder is straight up and you do not have to worry about rebalancing!

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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- Modifying the Basic 10" Dobsonian to a Basic Equatorial Mount

Why do this? This configuration will allow you to easily track an object by rotating 1 axis, rather then stair stepping the OTA. It will also allow you to begin thinking about motorizing the telescope. See this animation to understand the equatorial mount concept

The downside. You must be careful now to not look less then 10 on each horizon with out more modification. The OTA could fall out of the Rocker Box. You could add straps or cut a new shape in the side boards of the ROCKER BOX that might prevent this. This modification also might be a little heavy. You may want to wheel barrow it by adding an axle on the heavy end with removable wheels!

Materials
Material Protractor 3/4" Plywood Simple Directional Compass 12 - 1.5" angle brackets 3 more furniture glides 2 12" bungie cords 2 1/4" x 2" long lag screws Notes For creating the angle of your Latitude To build the base To align the base to the north pole For building the EQ mount To move the base to a new location Hold the OTA to the Rocker Box For Bungie Cord attachment

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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2 1/4" x 3-1/2" long carriage bolt 4 1/4" washers for carriage bolt 4 1/4" nuts for carriage bolt

For Bungie Cord attachment For Bungie Cord attachment For Bungie Cord attachment

Cut a Z piece that is 18" by 30" Cut an X piece that is 1" x 4" out of 3/4" plywood Finding your local latitude. See this page for more details. Using this information, cut 3 triangles as shown here. Using the Latitude angle for your location, subtract it from 90 to get the opposite angle. Cut 3 angle boards called Y starting with marking the 8" from one side and then use the protractor to mark the opposite angle. Draw a line and cut the board out. In this example, my latitude is 36 .

Material Preparation

Remember to use your angle dimensions, NOT

MINE!
Now that you have the Latitude angle in degrees, we will begin by modifying your existing Basic Dobsonian Mount Page 2

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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- Modifying the Basic 10" Dobsonian to a Basic Equatorial Mount

You will modify only 3 of the existing sub assemblies, the ROCKER BOX ASSEMBLY, TUBE BOX and GROUND BOARD ASSEMBLY

Reworking the Rocker Assembly

Step 1 Step 2

We will add 2 bolts for the bungie cords. Drill 1/4" holes into the side of the rocker box, 10" down from the bottom of the V notch. Add 2 washers and nuts to hold it in place with the head 1.5" from the board

Cut a large slot out of the front board. This helps the tube to clear the board when its in its new position. Step 3 Take the Tube Box and put 2 lag screws on the center of the circles Step 4 Test the tightness of the Bungie cord by putting the cord on the rocker box & tube box, making sure the 2 parts cannot fall apart

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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Step 5

Step 6 The X piece will be used for now, to keep the OTA from rotating so that it will not fall out of the cradle.

Finally add the X piece to the center front as shown here

Modify your GROUND BOARD

Step 1 Remove the 2 feet on the one side of the bottom of the Ground Board. Step 2

Make a new 0.40" center hole from the center of the board to 5" towards the single foot as shown. Step 3 On the the other side of the ground board assembly, you may want to redraw the 9" circle and put new furniture glides on it.

On to building the new base...

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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- Modifying the Basic 10" Dobsonian to a Basic Equatorial Mount

New Base Assembly
Step 1 Start with the long Z board Step 2

Fix one angled board Y 4" from the end, with the opposite angle on the bottom touching the Z board

Step 3

Step 4

Add a second and third Y board with angle brackets for support. The middle Y board is not exactly in the center. It is only 8" off the side. I do not want it to interfere with the hole for the ROCKER BOX/GROUND BOARD

Now mount the GROUND BOARD ASSEMBLY with the new 0.40" hole away from the Z board, not near it

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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Step 5

Step

Add the Protractor and nail a string on it. Push the protractor up against the GROUND BOARD. This is for leveling the whole mount in the field. You will want to get it to your Latitude angle. Step 7

6 Add the Compass to one end of the board. I drew a line parallel to the side showing the orientation of the mount. Center the compass on it .

Step 8 Bolt the ROCKER BOX and lay the OTA in and add the bungie cords

In the field, you will want this to point north generally. If you really want to get technical you can calculate magnetic deviation into it!

Modifying the Basic Dobonian to an Equatorial Mount

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Finally, You need to balance the OTA into the TUBE BOX. Try hard to get it centered about the circles on the TUBE BOX. If you don't, then it could drift in the configuration you see below. Click on the image to animate Note: These animations do not show the bungie cord, but an older style of EQ mount.

Unfortunately, this base can be a little heavy. You could minimize the length of the board on the COMPASS side to get right below the Center of Gravity of the OTA. You could even cut out some of the meat of the bottom board to lighten it.

Laser Collimator Design

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Laser Collimator Design

Material 3/4" PVC pipe about 6" long Key chain Laser 2 35 mm film canisters 7 #10-20 thumb screws

Notes This can be trimmed down. Look on Ebay. You can get one for 99 cents get the ones with the dimple on the bottom

They need to be about 1/2" long. used as alignment screws You will need a tap for these as well. (they could actually be just a bit shorter)

Duck tape or masking tape Epoxy Left over plywood 3/4" to build a collimator for the collimator :) need one 4" x 6", and two 3" x 4" pieces. Tools drill and bits hack saw screw tap for #10-20 you will tap the PVC holes Once you have all the supplies and tools, it will only take about 30 minutes to make Page 2 - Building the Collimator

Building the Collimator

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Building the Collimator

Drill a hole through one of the film canisters with a 5/64" bit or the smallest bit you have. Make sure you hit the exact center mark. This is critical for accuracy. If you mess up then use the second one as a back up. Take the second canister and cut the end off of it leaving at least an inch or more.

Step 1

Step 2

Mark 3 lines about 120 apart on the pipe using a door jam Step 3

Measure and mark 1 lines from the end about 2.5" . use the edge of piece of paper to make it perfect. Step 4

Measure a second line about 1.5" from the last one

Drill the 6 intersections of the lines and tap them carefully. Make a 7th hole on one line between the 2 circumference marks. This is the hole for the on/off switch screw.

Building the Collimator

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Step 5

Step 6

Next, begin adding tape (in blue) slowly and carefully to each end to fill the gap between the pipe and the film canisters. Check the fit often. Try to make it just snug enough. You will use epoxy for a final hold Slide the laser into the tube. align the on/off switch with the 7th hole Step 7 Step 8

View of the switch in the 7th hole Step 9

Carefully add all 7 screws trying to keep the laser suspended in the center of the tube.

Turn on the laser and work on getting it to shoot out the front of the hole in the collimator The next step is to align the laser to the center of the tube. Use epoxy to set the film canister on the front and on the back. Let it sit and dry. Page 3 - Aligning the Laser

Aligning the laser

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Aligning the laser

Step 1 Step 2

Screw one on the end of a 4x6 piece of plywood with screws

Make 2 of these pieces out of plywood Step 3 Step 4

Put the second wall in with screws

Lay the laser and the second piece on the the wood. The second piece should sit under the canister. Step 5 Lay the laser in to the cradle and turn it on. Point the laser to a wall about 30 + feet away. Spin the laser and you will see it draw a circle on the wall. Use the screws on the back end to get the circle into a dot when you spin it. (do the best you can!) Now you have a $50 instrument! Step 6 Safe keeping. Do not drop it or you will need to realign it. I recommend removing the on/off screw so your batteries wont go down by accident!

- Digital Camera Adapter - Materials List

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- Digital Camera Adapter Materials List

Quantity
1 1 4 1 1 2 1 4 1 1 4

Parts
1" #2 Conduit Hanger 1/4" - 20 x 6" long piece of all thread 1/4" - 20 Nuts 1/4" - 20 by 1 1/4" long bolt (comes with hanger) 1/4" - 20 Wing nut 1/4" - 20 x 1 1/2" Thumb Screw 3/16" E clip 6 mm Washers 3/8" Tall x 1/4" Hole Nylon Spacer 3/4"x3/4"x 9" Scrap Hard Wood Felt pads approx. 1" long by .25" wide or equivalent.

First Notes:
The E-clip looks like this but smaller.

Place felt pads inside the circle of the conduit hanger so that your eyepieces will not get scratched

- Digital Camera Adaptor - Wood Preparation

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- Digital Camera Adapter Wood Preparation

Step 1 Step 2

Drill a 1/4" hole through the top of the wood, 1" from one end of the wood Step 3

Next use a Saw to cut a slot about 1 blade width up to that hole forming an expansion gap

Step 4

On one side, drill another 1/4" hole 1/2" from the end Step 5

Now create a slight countersink 1/2" in diameter only on one side to hold a nut Step 6

Next cut a long slot on the top about 1/4" wide as shown from the ends.

Grab the nylon washer and drill about a 5/16 or bigger countersink in one end. This is for the E-clip later.

- Digital Camera Adaptor - Wood Preparation

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Wood Drawing

On to Assembly...

- Digital Camera Adaptor - Assembly

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- Digital Camera Adapter Assembly

Step 1 Step 2

Add the bolt and wing nut

Combine 2 nuts and clip to one end of the all-thread Step 3 Step 4

Slide the All thread into the hole on the top of the wood with the expansion gap

Place a nut in the counter-sunk area

- Digital Camera Adaptor - Assembly

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Step 5

Step 6

Add a Washer and a Thumbscrew to the other side of the wood. Tighten it so that the Conduit clip cannot slide up or down. In the slot, add a washer and thumbscrew then push it through the bottom side of the slot. Add another washer on the top side. Step 7 Step 8

Put the Nylon washer in place with the countersink up. Put your camera on this and see if it tightens down snug. If not, add more washers underneath. Then, you will have to mark the threads where the E-clip will sit.

File down the threads where the E-clip sits so the e-clip and nylon washer cannot be unscrewed by twisting the thumbscrew.

- Digital Camera Adaptor - Assembly

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Animation of the Assembly

Assembly Print