Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 1

By:
Abu Bakkar Marwat
05-NTU-05
Section A
Semester VIII
NTU Faisalabad
0313-6660505
textilian4u@yahoo.com
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 2

1-Introduction:
Ever since the invention of the loom, fabric producers have
observed the phenomenon known as fabric “pilling,” a process that
results in the formation of small fuzzy balls or “pills” on the fabric
surface. In the short term, pilling may lead to unattractive “fuzzy”
fabric; over time, especially with natural fabrics, it can lead to a
complete wear-through of the fabric.

A pill’s evolution involves three major steps: first, abrasion on the

fabric—the fibers rubbing against
themselves or another surface—
causes a “fuzz.”
Further agitation then causes a
collection of fiber to appear as
clinging balls, anchored to the
fabric much like a burr’s tiny
hooks (see Figure 1). Finally, as
mechanical and physical action
weakens the pill’s ability to cling
over time, it falls off the fabric in
its last stage known as depletion
or removal. Figure 1: Fiber
Ends Entangle to Create “Pill”
on Fabric (50x magnification).

Although pilling has been with us for some time, it wasn’t a

significant problem with wool and cotton fibers. With the invention of
synthetic fibers, however, consumers and manufacturers began to take
note of the undesirable pilling syndrome. The rest of this paper
explains why pilling has been such a challenge to the synthetic fiber
and fabric industry and what DuPont has done to meet that challenge.

2-Causes:
Pills are formed by a rubbing action on loose fibres which are
present on the fabric surface. Pilling was originally a fault found mainly
in knitted woolen goods made from soft twisted yarns. The introduction
of man-made fibres into clothing has aggravated its seriousness. The
explanation for this is that these fibres are stronger than wool so that
the pills remain attached to the fabric surface rather than breaking
away as would be the case with wool.
The initial effect of abrasion on the surface of a fabric is the
formation of fuzz as the result of two processes, the brushing up of
free fibre ends not enclosed within the yarn structure and the
conversion of fibre loops into free fibre ends by the pulling out of one
of the two ends of the loop. Gintis and Mead consider that the fuzz
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 3

formation must reach a critical height, which is dependent on fibre

characteristics, before pill formation can occur.
The greater the breaking strength and the lower the bending
stiffness of the fibres, the more likely they are to be pulled out of the
fabric structure producing long protruding fibres. Fibre with low
breaking strength and high bending stiffness will tend to break before
being pulled fully out of the structure leading to shorter protruding
fibres.
The next stage is the entanglement of the loose fibres and the
formation of them into a roughly spherical mass of fibres which is held
to the surface by anchor fibres. As the pill undergoes further rubbing,
the anchor fibres can be pulled further out of the structure or fatigued
and eventually fractured depending on the fibre properties and how
tightly they are held by the structure. In the case of low-strength fibres
the pills will easily be detached from the fabric but with fabrics made
from high-strength fibres the pills will tend to remain in place. This
factor is responsible for the increase in the propensity for fabrics to pill
with the introduction of synthetic fibres.
Low twist factors and loose fabric structures such as knitwear
have a rapid fibre pull-out rate and long staple length resulting in the
development of numerous large pills. The life of these pills depends on
the balance between the rate of fibre fatigue and the rate of roll-up. Pill
density can increase steadily, reach a plateau or pass through a
maximum and decrease with time depending on the relative rates of
pill formation and pill detachment. The pill density is also governed by
the number of loose fibre ends on the surface and this may set an
upper limit to the number of pills that will potentially develop. This has
important implications for the length of a pilling test because if the test
is carried on too long the pill density may have passed its maximum.
Fibres with reduced flex life will increase the rate of pill wear-off.
Because the fibres that make up the pills come from the yarns in
the fabric any changes which hold the fibres more firmly in the yarns
will reduce the amount of pilling. The use of higher twist in the yarn,
reduced yarn hairiness, longer fibres, increased inter-fibre friction,
increased linear density of the fibre, brushing and cropping of the
fabric surface to remove loose fibre ends, a high number of threads per
unit length and special chemical treatments to reduce fibre migration
will reduce the tendency to pill. The presence of softeners or fibre
lubricants on a fabric will increase pilling. Fabrics made from blended
fibres often have a greater tendency to pill as it has been found [3]
that the finer fibres in a blend preferentially migrate towards the yarn
exterior due to the difference in properties.

3-Adverse effects:
Pilling is an important problem not only for textile and clothes
manufacturers but also for users. The effect of the pilling process
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 4

results in a significant decrease in fabric quality and a negative

influence on the user’s comfort. It also affects the fabric appearance
very badly.

4-Determination:
After rubbing of a fabric it is possible to assess the amount of
pilling quantitatively either by counting the number of pills or by
removing and weighing them. However, pills observed in worn
garments vary in size and appearance as well as in number. The
appearance depends on the presence of lint in the pills or the degree
of colour contrast with the ground fabric. These factors are not
evaluated if the pilling is rated solely on the number or size of pills.
Furthermore the development of pills is often accompanied by other
surface changes such as the development of fuzz which affect the
overall acceptability of a fabric. It is therefore desirable that fabrics
tested in the laboratory are assessed subjectively with regard to their
acceptability and not rated solely on the number of pills developed.
Counting the pills and/or weighing them as a measure of pilling is very
time consuming and there is also the difficulty of deciding which
surface disturbances constitute pills. The more usual way of evaluation
is to assess the pilling subjectively by comparing it with either
standard samples or with photographs of them or by the use of a
written scale of severity. Most scales are divided into five grades and
run from grade 5-no pilling, to grade 1-very severe pilling.

4.1-Random tumble pilling test (ASTM

D3512):

• What This Test is Used For:

This test is used to cover the resistance to
the formation of pills and other related
surface changes on the textile fabrics using
the random tumble pilling tester. The
procedure is generally applicable to all types
of woven and knitted fabrics.

• How This Test Works:

Textile samples are placed into the random
tumble pill tester for a specified amount of
time and tumbled. The samples are then
evaluated for the degree of pilling.

• Scientific Testing Requirements:

Bring specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in standard
atmosphere for testing textiles according to ASTM D-1776, conditioning
Textiles for Testing.
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4.1.1-Equipment Needed:
• Random Tumble Pilling Tester
• Cork Cylinder Liners: about 5 3/4” wide by 17.81” long cut from
0.063” thick flat sheets of Type P2117A material conforming to
Classification System F104, Appendix X2.
• Air Injection Device to give 14-21 kPa (2-3 psi) air pressure in
each test chamber
• Adhesive: white all-purpose, for sealing the edges of the
specimen
• Twelve 4.13” squares cut on the bias approximately at a 45°
angle to the warp and filling

4.1.2-Sampling:
A lot sample is selected at random from the consignment. From this
sample after removing first 2 meter fabric, 2 meter laboratory sample
is cut.
Preparing test specimen:
• Cut a 4.13” square on the bias at approximately a 45° angle to
the warp and filling directions. One sample needed per person.
(Avoid cutting samples in areas with wrinkles & other distortions.
• Avoid getting oil, water, grease, etc. on the sample while
handling.)

4.1.3-Conditioning:
Condition sample and cork liners by bone drying and then bring them
to moisture equilibrium in the controlled chamber

4.1.4-Test Procedure:
• Place Specimen and a 25 mg of a 5 mm (0.2”) gray colored
cotton fiber into the test chamber.
• Place the cover on the chamber and set the timer for a running
time of 30 minutes. (10 minute intervals for up to 30 minutes
may be more indicative for certain knits or soft-woven fabrics.)
• Turn the motor switch to “on,” and push the “start” button, and
start the airflow.
• During the run check each chamber at frequent intervals. (If the
specimen becomes wedged around the impeller without
tumbling or lies on the bottom or side of the chamber, shut off
the air, stop the machine, remove the face plate, and free the
specimen.
• Record on a data sheet any abnormal behavior or hang ups of
the specimen.
• After each run, rake out each specimen and clean off excess
cotton fiber using the vacuum cleaner.
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 6

4.1.5-Preparation for Evaluation

• Place each specimen on the double faced tape in the viewing
cabinet.
4.1.5.1-Evaluation
• Using suitable rating standards, and the apparatus for fabric
evaluation, subjectively rate the face of each specimen, looking
down on the specimen at a 45° angle and using the rating
standard and the following scale. When the appearance of a test
specimen falls between that of 2 rating standards, assign the half
value (i.e. 3.5).
5 - no pilling
4 - slight pilling
3 - moderate pilling
2 - severe pilling
1 - very severe pilling
• Average the ratings for the 3 specimens from each laboratory
sampling unit and the average for the lot.
• Take note if one strip in either fabric direction, or in any one
portion of a specimen, report this condition. This indicates that
different yarns may have been used in the construction of the
fabric being tested.
• Check the pilled specimens for evidence of irregular tumbling. If
specimens show a high concentration of pills in a general line not
parallel to either fabric direction, assume a specimen is wedged
around the impeller for one or more periods during the test.
Discard these and repeat test with new specimens.
• Evaluate the fabric for other surface effects such as fuzzing. It is
advisable to have a separate set of in-house fabric rating
standards for each surface effect to be rated.

4.2- ICI Pill box:

Specimens are mounted on polyurethane tubes and tumbled
randomly in a cork-linked box at a constant rotational speed. Fuzzing
and pilling is assessed visually after a defined period of tumbling. Any
special treatment of the laboratory sample, i.e. washing, cleaning, has
to be agreed upon and shall be
stated in the test report.

4.2.1-Equipment and
material:
• Pill testing box
• Polyurethane specimen
tubes
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 7

• Mounting jig, used to mount specimens on the tubes

• Self-adhesive polyvinyl chloride tape, 19 mm wide
• Sewing machine
• Viewing cabinet
4.2.2-Sampling and test specimen:
A lot sample is selected at random from the consignment. From this
sample after removing first 2 meter fabric, 2 meter laboratory sample
is cut.
From this sample, cut four test specimens, each 125 mm x 125 mm. on
each test specimen mark the back of the fabric and the length
direction.
A seam allowance of 12mm is marked on the back of each
square. In two of the samples the seam is marked parallel to the warp
direction and in the other two parallel to the weft direction. The
samples are then folded face to face and a seam is sewn on the
marked line.

4.2.3-Conditioning:
The specimens are then conditioned in standard temperate
atmosphere conditions at 20±2oC and relative humidity of 65±4%.

4.2.4-Test procedure:
• Each specimen is turned inside out and 6mm cut off each end of
it thus removing any sewing distortion.
• The fabric tubes made are then mounted on rubber tubes so that
the length of tube showing at each end is the same.
• Each of the loose ends is taped with poly (vinyl chloride) (PVC)
tape so that 6mm of the rubber tube is left exposed as shown in
Fig.
• All four specimens are then placed in one pilling box.
• The samples are then tumbled together in a cork-lined box as
shown in Fig. 7.5. The usual number of revolutions used in the
test is 18,000 which take 5 h.
• Some specifications require the test to be run for a different
number of revolutions.
Abu Bakkar Marwat (05-NTU-05) Pilling 8

4.2.5-Assessment:
The specimens are removed from the tubes and viewed using oblique
lighting in order to throw the pills into relief. The samples are then
given a rating of between 1 and 5 with the help of the descriptions in
Table.

5-Conclusive remarks:
• A pilling problem is related to fiber type, strength, and
extensibility.
• Natural fibers like cotton exhibit some pilling, but it goes
unnoticed because of its inherent weakness:
 the pills are tiny and fall off quickly
• The balance between pill formation and depletion was changed
with the introduction of stronger, man-made fibers. Synthetics
like polyester and acrylics contain strong “anchor” fibers for the
pills to cling to—so strong that fewer pills fall away. The
formation rate is also higher, making the problem even more
pronounced.
• Synthetic knits exhibit pilling problems because of their loose
construction, and knits of synthetic staple fibers contain
numerous eligible free fiber ends that begin the pilling process.
• Filament fabrics have no free ends to migrate, so no pills can
form.
• Some believe that reducing the denier (yarn thickness) in blends
of polyester and natural fibers affects pilling rates, or that less
polyester content will decrease pilling. In fact, denier has little to
do with pilling and the presence of any polyester staple will
contribute to pilling.