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Finishing (textiles)
by Wikipedia Contributors • Aug. 28, 2014 • 9 min read • original

Textile finishing machinery, Red Bridge Mills,

Ainsworth, 1983

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the

woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any
process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look,
performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.[1][2] The
precise meaning depends on context.

Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn
before it is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is
woven or knitted.[3] Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in
use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerisation, are
byproducts of the Industrial Revolution.[citation need ed ]

Contents

1 Introduction
2 Finishing- processing of cotton

2.1 Purification and preliminary processes

2.2 Coloration
 2.3 Finishing

3 Standard finishes

3.1 Quality-oriented
3.2 Design-oriented
3.3 Handle-oriented

4 Special finishes for natural fibers

5 Special finishes for synthetic fibers
6 References
7 Bibliography
8 External links

Introduction[edit]
In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is
customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical
treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary
to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing,
flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing
achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers.

The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the
development of textured yarns made of filaments, and the growing production
of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter,
breathable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort.

The properties of plastic-based synthetic fibers, most important among them

being polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, are essentially different
from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence the sequence of
finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require a
resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers
already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting
operation.

Finishing- processing of cotton[edit]

Purification and preliminary processes[edit]
The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains
impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to
develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable
added value by applying one or more finishing processes.[4][5]

Singeing

Main article: Singe § Textiles

Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to
produce smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres,
then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.[6]

Desizing

Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a
dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the
size.[6]

Scouring

Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to

remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed
fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is
usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an
alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is
usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under
pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre.
If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from
the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to
be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and
scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this
stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and
bleaching, the next process, is required.[6]
 Bleaching

Main article: Textile bleaching

Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and

remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching
necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency.
Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent,
such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the
fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are
acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical
applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.
[7]

Mercerising

Main article: Mercerized cotton

A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with

caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in
improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under
tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or
shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey
cloth, or after bleaching.[8]

Coloration[edit]
Color is a sensation caused when white light from a source such as the sun is
reflected off a pigment on the surface. The pigment selectively reflects certain
wavelengths of light while absorbing others. A dye can be considered as a
substance that can be fixed to a material that has these properties. The colour
it reflects is defined by the structure of the molecule, and particular the parts
of the chromogen molecule called the chromophore group. [9] There are two
processes used to apply colour:

Dyeing
Main article: Dyeing

Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration

processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly carried out with an anionic
direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous
dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to
washing, rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are
commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing
and are thus more expensive to apply.[10]

Printing

Main article: Textile printing

Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in the form of a

paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may
be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed
fabric is also possible. The common processes are block printing, roller
printing and screen printing

Finishing[edit]
Mechanical finishing

Raising

Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is

treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting
hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.

Calendering

Main article: Calender

Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the

fabric is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or
embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative
 speeds.

[11]
Chemical finishing

Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to

produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects.

Shrinking (Sanforizing)

Main article: Sanforization

Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the

fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in
which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is
minimal.

[12]

Standard finishes[edit]

Quality-oriented[edit]

Calendering
Decatising
Desizing for woven fabrics.
Pressing
Scouring with detergents, alkaline solutions, or enzymes removes foreign
matter.
Shrinking, Sanforization
Shearing or singeing smooths the fabric by removing the fine protruding fibers
on the surface of the fabric. Flame singeing is the standard process: the wet
fabric is passed through an array of gas burners at a suitable distance to burn
the pills off of its surface.

Design-oriented[edit]

Bleaching of woven fabrics removes any prior color in order to obtain a

uniform color during the dying process.
 Dyeing adds color.
Printing adds color and pattern.
Watering adds moiré patterns.

Handle-oriented[edit]

Fulling or waulking adds weight and density.

Hydrophobic finishing produces a fabric that repels stains or water.
Weighting silk with metallic salts or polymer adds weight and improves handle.

Special finishes for natural fibers[edit]

Bio-polishing removes the protruding fibers of a fabric through the action of
an enzyme. Enzymes, such as cellulase for cotton, selectively remove
protruding fibers. These enzymes may be deactivated by an increase in
temperature.

Mercerisation makes woven cotton fabric stronger, more lustrous, to have

better dye affinity, and to be less abrasive.

Raising lifts the surface fibers to improve the softness and warmth, as in
flannelette.

Peach Finish subjects the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to
emery wheels, making the surface velvet-like. This is a special finish used
mostly in garments.

Fulling or waulking is a method of thickening woollen material to make it

more water-resistant.

Decatising to bring dimension stability to woollen fabrics.

Calendering makes one or both surfaces of the fabric smooth and shiny. The
fabric is passed to through hot, fast-moving stainless steel cylinders.
Sanforizing or Pre-shrinking prevents a fabric and the produced garment
from shrinking after production. This is also a mechanical finish, acquired by
feeding the fabric between a roller and rubber blanket, in such a way the
rubber blanket compresses the weft threads and imparts compressive
shrinkage.

Crease-Resist finish or "wash-and-wear" or "wrinkle-free" finishes are

achieved by the addition of a chemical resin finish that makes the fiber take
on a quality similar to that of synthetic fibers.

Anti-microbial finish causes a fabric to inhibit the growth of microbes. The

humid and warm environment found in textile fibers encourages the growth of
the microbes. Infestation by microbes can cause cross-infection by pathogens
and the development of odor where the fabric is worn next to skin. In addition,
stains and loss of fiber quality of textile substrates can also take place. With
an aim to protect the skin of the wearer and the textile substrate itself, an
anti-microbial finish is applied to textile materials.

Special finishes for synthetic fibers[edit]

Heat-setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the
fiber, generated during manufacturing, and the new state can be fixed by rapid
cooling. This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state, and thus avoids
subsequent shrinkage or creasing of the fabric. Presetting of goods makes it
possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the
sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing
behavior and the running properties of the fabric. On the other hand, post-
setting can be combined with some other operations such as Thermasol
dyeing or optical brightening of polyester. Post-setting as a final finish is
useful to achieve high dimensional stability, along with desired handle. Heat-
setting is an important part in textile finishing.
Stiffening and filling process: A stiffening effect is desirable in certain
polyamides and polyester materials (e.g. petticoats, collar inner linings),
which can be done by reducing the mutual independence of structural
elements of fabric by polymer deposition on coating as a fine film.

Hydrophilic finishes compensate for lower moisture and water absorption

capacity in synthetic fiber materials, which become uncomfortable in contact
with skin. Certain products, based on modified (oxy-ethylated) polyamides,
make the fabric more pleasant by reducing the cohesion of water so that it
spreads over a larger area and thus evaporates more readily.

Anti-pilling finish alleviates pilling, an unpleasant phenomenon associated

with spun yarn fabrics, especially when they contain synthetics. Synthetic
fibers are more readily brought to the surface of a fabric due to their smooth
surface and circular cross-section, and due to their higher tensile strength
and abrasion resistance. With knit "picking" also occurs: by abrasion,
individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface, and the
garment catches on a pointed or rough object. Knitting is susceptible to these
effects due to the open weave and bulky yarn.

Anti-static finish prevents dust from clinging to the fabric. Anti-static

effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermasol or heat
treatment for fixing on polyester fabrics. Polyether agents have been found to
be useful but should not affect the dye-equilibrium on fiber, lest they impair
the rubbing fastness.[citation need ed ] In general, Thermasol anti-static agents also
have a good soil release action, which is as permanent as the anti-static effect.
Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type, being curable at moderate
temperatures.

Non-slip finishes give the filaments a rougher surface. Synthetic warp and
weft threads in loosely-woven fabrics are particularly prone to slip because of
their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and
appearance is no longer attractive. Silica gel dispersions or silicic acid
colloidal solutions are used in combination with latex polymer or acrylates
dispersions to get more permanent effect, along with simultaneous
improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging. These polymer finishes are
also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric
without making it water repellent.

Fire Resistant or Flame Retardant finish: to reduce flammability.

Anti-microbial finish: with the increasing use of synthetic fibers for carpets
and other materials in public places, anti-microbial finishes have gained
importance. Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols,
quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds, which
can be applied as solutions or dispersions. They can also be incorporated in a
polymeric film deposited on the surface to achieve controlled release.

References[edit]

1. ^ Collier 1970, p. 154.

2. ^ Kadolph, pp. 330-341.
3. ^ Collier 1970, p. 246.
4. ^ "Finishing", Spinning the Web (Manchester City Council: Libraries),
retrieved 2009-01-29
5. ^ GREENHALGH, DAVID (2005), Cotton finishing, retrieved 2009-02-12
6. ^ a b c Collier 1970, p. 155
7. ^ Collier 1970, p. 157
8. ^ Collier 1970, p. 159
9. ^ Collier 1970, p. 160
10. ^ Collier 1970, p. 161
11. ^ Collier 1970, p. 172
12. ^ Collier 1970, p. 175

Bibliography[edit]

Collier, Ann M (1970), A Handbook of Textiles, Pergamon Press, p. 258, ISBN 0-

08-018057-4, ISBN 0-08-018056-6 |accessdate= requires |url= (help)
Kadolph, Sara J (2007). Textiles (10 ed.). Pearson/Prentice-Hall. ISBN 0-13-
 118769-4.
Textil-Praxis (1958), 401 - „Befeuchtung oder Dämpfen von Wollgarnen”
Textilbetrieb (1981), 29 - „Gleichmäßige Effekte beim Garndämpfen“
Dr. H.-J. Henning, Dr.-Ing. Cl. Sustmann - Melliand Textilberichte
„Untersuchungen über das Vakuumdämpfen von Wollgarnen“ (1966), 530
Jens Holm Dittrich, Paul Naefe, Johann Kreitz - Melliand Textilberichte
„Verfahren zur Drallberuhigung von Wollgarnen durch Kurzzeitdämpfen“
(1986), 817

External links[edit]

Textile Processing Guide

Yarn dyeing tips and techniques

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