Chapter 5

Color and Weave Effects

Introduction:
Various colored patterns can be obtained in fabric
by combining colored yarns and weaves. See the
following Figures in the next page.
Some figures:
Some concepts:
Color sequence --- The color arrangements are
called color sequence.
Color repeat --- The number of a complete color
sequence threads is called color repeat.
Pattern repeat --- The number of a complete
pattern threads is called pattern repeat. It equals the
least common multiple (LCM) of the weave repeat
and the color repeat.
Arrangement of colored pattern construction:
The arrangements are:
I : weave
: weft color sequence
: warp color sequence
: colored pattern
Fig.5.1 Arrangement of colored patterns construction
5.1 Construction of patterns from a
given weave and color repeats
Explanation:
For all two-tone color and weave effects in this
book only
The dark colored warp and weft floats are
indicated:
Light colored warp and weft floats are left
blank:
5.1.1 Method of development
The patterns are constructed as following steps:
1) Determine the weave, warp colour sequence and weft
colour sequence, and calculate the pattern repeat.
2) Draw the weave, warp and weft colour sequence on their
location, and fill the weave on colour pattern location with
dot marks. In order to see the pattern clearly, more repeats
are selected.
3) According to the warp colour sequence, mark the warp
floats of the dark coloured ends. And according to weft
colour sequence, mark the weft floats of the dark
coloured picks.
Example:
1) The weave is 1/1 plain; warp colour sequence and weft colour
sequence are both 1A, 1B, (A-light colour, B-dark colour).
2) Draw the weave, warp and weft colour sequence on their
location, and fill the weave on colour pattern location with dot
marks. See the following Figure

According to the warp
colour sequence, mark the
warp floats of the dark
coloured ends.
And according to weft colour
sequence, mark the weft floats
of the dark coloured picks.
See the Figure on the right
3) Mark the patterns




















Finally we get the pattern :
5.1.2 Varieties of weaves
and colour effects
1. Horizontal and vertical hairline effects
2. Combined horizontal and vertical hairline effects
3. Figured colour and weave effects
1. Horizontal and vertical hairline effects
Steps of development for Horizontal effect :
a) Indicate the base weave very faintly
b) Indicate the sequence of colours for warping order
c) Indicate the sequence of colours for picking order
d) Mark the warp lifts () of the dark coloured ends
e) Mark the weft floats () of the dark coloured picks
2 colours in warp and weft
Warp and weft
1
1
Repeat 2
2) Vertical effect
2 colours in warp and weft
2. Combined horizontal and
vertical hairline effect
1) Stripe effect
2 colours in warp and weft
2) Check effect
2 colours in warp and weft
3. Figured colour and weave
effect
2) Step effects
2 colours in warp and weft
twill
2) Dog tooth effect
Warp and weft
2 2
4
repeat 8
Since this figure looks like dogs
tooth so it is called dog tooth effect
3) bird eyes effects
From this page we can see the same figured
effect can be created with different weaves
Home works:
Drawing the following coloured pattern from the given weave and
colour repeat. (If it is necessary, you can select more repeat to show
the pattern clearly).
(1) Base weave plain:
warp and weft colour repeat 1 dark (1D hereafter), 1 light (1Lhereafter).
( pattern repeat 8).
(2) Base weave:

Warp and weft colour repeat, 1 D 1 L
(4) Base weave:
Warp and weft colour repeat, 1 L 2 D 1 L, (Pattern repeat 8).
(3) Base weave:
Warp and weft colour repeat are:
1 1 2 1 1
1 1 1 1
(5) Base weave:
Warp and weft colour repeat: 4L 4D (Pattern repeat 16)
(6) Base weave:

Warp and weft colour repeat :1 D 1 L (Pattern repeat 12).