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Hng dn
s dng
nhanh
3034D
NI DUNG
CU TO CC B PHN CA MY..............................................................................4
IU CHNH CNG CH ..........................................................................................5
THO/LP KIM...............................................................................................................5
X L S C.................................................................................................................6
BNG HNG DN KT HP KIM, CH V VI...........................................................7
X CH............................................................................................................................8
X CH THA KHUYT DI......................................................................................8
X CH THA KHUYT TRN....................................................................................10
X CH KIM BN PHI...............................................................................................11
X CH KIM BN TRI................................................................................................11
VT S.........................................................................................................................12
CHN MI VT S....................................................................................................12
MAY TH....................................................................................................................12
TO SI BN.............................................................................................................13
TIN HNH MAY.........................................................................................................13
THO SN PHM......................................................................................................13
KHA SI BN.............................................................................................................14
NU CH T TRONG KHI MAY..................................................................................15
CU TO CC B PHN CA MY
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<D> <C>
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Cy treo ch
Mc dn ch
Nm xoay chnh lc chn vt
Trc gi ng ch
B ng ch
B phn dn ch
Kim
Ly ra gn ng qun, tay o
Chn vt
B my
Nm xoay iu chnh cng ch kim bn tri
Nm xoay iu chnh cng ch kim bn phi
Nm xoay iu chnh cng ch tha khuyt trn
Nm xoay iu chnh cng ch tha khuyt di
Np y trc
Cn nng chn vt
Cng tc ngun v n
Nm xoay iu chnh di mi may
i Bnh
j Nm xoay iu chnh dy tha ca mi ch vt s
k Nm xoay iu chnh rng mi may
Bn trong np y trc
l
m
n
o
p
q
r
s
t
Mc dn ch
Cn x ch tha khuyt di
Cn ly ch tha khuyt
B phn tha khuyt trn
Dao trn
B phn tha khuyt di
B phn kha mi may
Cn dao
Phn np y trc
iu chnh cng ch
Mi ch may, ch tha khuyt trn/di u c
mt nm iu chnh cng ch.
cng ch thch hp c th khc nhau ty thuc
vo chng loi, dy vi v loi ch. Khi thay i
cht liu may, cn iu chnh cng ch.
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Tho/Lp kim
<A> Tho lp kim bn tri
<B> Tho lp kim bn phi
<A>
<B>
1
1 Sit 2 Ni lng
Tho kim:
1 Nm mu vng iu chnh cng ch kim
bn tri.
2 Nm mu hng iu chnh cng ch kim
bn phi.
3 Nm mu xanh lc iu chnh cng ch b
phn tha khuyt trn.
4 Nm mu xanh lam iu chnh cng b
phn tha khuyt di.
iu chnh cng ch
1. Tt cng tc ngun v n.
2. Xoay bnh sao cho du trn bnh
trng vi ng thng trn my.
3. Ni lng c c nh kim tng ng bng
cch vn tua vt lc gic v pha 2 nh
trong hnh minh ha v tho kim.
Lp kim:
1. Tt cng tc ngun v n.
4
3
1 cng ln: 4 - 7
2 cng nh: 4 - 2
3 cng trung bnh: 5 - 3
CH
Hy m bo ch nm ng v tr trn nm
iu chnh cng.
CH
Lun tt my trc khi tho/lp kim.
Khng kim hay c c nh kim ri vo trong
my, nu khng s lm hng my.
X L S C
Chic my vt s ny c thit k vi kh nng t gp s c nht. Bng di y m t cc s c
c th gp phi khi my c iu chnh khng ng.
S c
Gii php
1. Khng n ch
cng ch qu cng
2. Gy kim
1. Kim b h hoc mn
2. Lp sai kim
3. Vi b ko mnh
1. X ch sai
X li ch ng cch.
2. Ch b ri
3. Ch qu cng
4. Lp sai kim
Dng ng kim.
Nn dng loi kim Schmetz 130/705H
1. Kim b h hoc mn
2. Lp sai kim
Dng ng kim.
Nn dng loi kim Schmetz 130/705H
4. X ch sai
X li ch ng cch.
5. Lc chn vt khng ng vi
vi
5. M
i may khng
ng nht
6. Nhn vi
1. Ch qu cng
2. X ch khng ng hoc ch
b ri
X li ch ng cch.
3. Ch b t
4. B mi
Nguyn nhn
Mi may
di
mi may
(mm)
Ch
Kim
Vt s
2.0-3.0
Spun #80-90
Cotton #100
Tetron #80-100
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
Vt s hp/
May vin
gp
R-2.0
Ch may:
Spun #80-90
Tetron #80-100
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
Vt s
2.5-3.5
Spun #60-80
Cotton #60-80
Tetron #60-80
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
#90
Vt s hp/
May vin
gp
R-2.0
Ch may:
Spun #60-80
Tetron #60-80
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#80
#90
Ch tha khuyt:
Ch ni lng len
Spun #80-90
Tetron #80-100
Ch tha khuyt:
Ch ni lng len
Spun #60-80
Tetron #60-80
Cht liu vi dy:
Vi tut
Denim
Len
Vt s
3.0-4.0
Cotton #50-60
Spun #60
Tetron #50-60
SCHMETZ
130/705H
#90
CH :
i vi may thi trang, ch trang tr s c hiu qu nht khi tha khuyt trn.
X CH
Phi tin hnh x ch theo th t sau.
1.
2.
3.
4.
CH :
m bo x ch qua hai cn ly ch 7.
X ch tha khuyt di
X ch theo th t nh hnh minh ha, theo mu
xanh lam v cc s bn cnh mi im x ch.
1
<A>
5
0
9
<B>
<B>
CH
0
9
CH :
Nu ch tha khuyt di t trong khi vt s, tin
hnh ct v g ch ra khi c hai kim.
m bo x li ch ng nh hng dn. My s
khng hot ng tt nu khng x ch theo ng th t.
CH
X ch qua kim sau khi x ch qua b phn
tha khuyt di v tha khuyt trn.
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5
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CH :
m bo x ch qua hai cn ly ch trn (7).
X ch kim bn phi
X ch theo th t nh hnh minh ha, theo mu
hng v cc s bn cnh mi im x ch.
X ch kim bn tri
X ch theo th t nh hnh minh ha, theo mu
vng v cc s bn cnh mi im x ch.
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2
4
3
<A>
<A>
7
<B>
8
<B>
<C>
<C>
CH :
m bo ch i qua bn phi b phn tch <A>.
CH :
m bo ch i qua bn tri b phn tch <A>.
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VT S
Chn mi VT S
Chn kiu mi may trc khi may.
My c th may 5 kiu khc nhau di y:
Mi vt s 4 ch
Mi vt s hp 2,0mm (5/64
inch) v
Mi vin gp 2,0mm (5/64 inch)
c dng lm mi may trang tr hoc mi kt
thc. Xem phn "Mi vt s hp/ Mi vin gp".
Mi vt s 3 ch 5 mm
(3/16 inch)
May th
May th trc khi tin hnh may tht.
1. t tt c cng ch v "4".
2. X ch cho my v ko tt c ch ra cha
khong 15 cm (6 inch) sau chn vt.
CH :
Tho kim bn phi khi may kiu mi ny.
Mi vt s 3 ch 2,8 mm
(3/64 inch)
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CH :
Lun nng chn vt ln trc khi t vi bn di
chn vt. Khng th may bng cch chy vi di
chn vt m khng nng chn vt ln.
3. Vi s c cun vo t ng. Bn ch cn
dn vi theo hng mong mun.
3
2
To si bn
Sau khi may th, tip tc nhn nh bn p
to si bn khong 10 cm (4 inch).
Cc si ch s t bn vo nhau.
1 Chn vt 2 Dao ct vi
3 Hng dn dung sai ng may
Tho sn phm
CH :
Nu lc cng ch khng cn bng, si bn s khng
u. Nu iu ny xy ra, ko nh cc si ch. Kim
tra th t ch v iu chnh lc cng ch to si bn
u. (Xem phn "iu chnh cng ch".)
13
Kha si bn
C 2 phng php kha si bn.
Phng php 1
u mi may
6. Ct ch bng ko.
Phng php 2
cui mi may
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Mi vt s hp/Mi vin gp
Mi vt s hp/Mi vin gp l mi may trang tr
cho vi mng hoc vi trung bnh. Mi may ny
thng c dng hon thin mp vi. Mi
may c tin hnh bng cch tho kim bn
tri v s dng mi vt s 3 ch.
Hng dn mi vt s hp/mi
vin gp
CH
Tt cng tc ngun v n trc khi tho/lp kim.
1. Tho kim bn tri.
CH
Khng inh gim trong vi khi may v s lm
hng kim v dao.
CH :
Xem phn "Bng hng dn kt hp kim, ch v
vi" s dng loi ch v kim thch hp.
<A>
15
<A>
CH :
Nh lp cht may khi may vt s thng thng.
<A>
<A> Du chn
5. iu chnh di mi may.
iu chnh nm di mi may n khong
"R n 2" (mi vt s hp: R n 2, mi vin
gp: R).
<A>
<A> Du chn
16
BO DNG
V sinh
Thay bng n
CH
Tt my trc khi v sinh.
Xoay bnh v h kim xung.
Lau sch bi, b vi v ch tha nh k bng
chi v sinh i km.
CH
Tt my v rt dy cm in ca my trc khi
thay bng n. Nu my vn bt khi thay bng
n, ngi thay bng n c th b git. Nu
my bt, c th b thng nu dm ln bn p.
trnh b bng, bng n ngui trc khi
thay.
1. Ni lng vt bng tua vt ch thp, sau
tho np y n.
Tra du
my hot ng trn tru v m hn, cc
b phn chuyn ng (theo hnh mi tn) cn
c tra du nh k.
CH
Tt my trc khi m np y trc tra du.
M bng n:
X53061050 (M, Canada)
205336050 (Cc quc gia khc)
3. ng np y n v sit li vt.
CH :
Tra du cho my trc khi s dng.
Lun lau bi trc khi tra du.
17
TRUNG TM BO HNH:
TRUNG TA
M BA
O HA
H: Long
TP.HCM
: Tng
5 Ta
nh N
Minh